high pitched faint beep just started interval approximately every 5 seconds when ignition is on
Douglas -
Are there any dash warning lights illuminated along with audible beep (assuming this is a warning beep)?
SID -
No we think we have checked everything it is very faint and high pitched only my wife can hear it. last time wetook it out for a drive it was not on the first 2 minutes then it started
SID -
how long should I wait for an answer?
SID -
what should I do now?
SID -
I have received no answer
SID -
Do not invoice me
Bruce Kit -
Could you determine where the noise is actually coming from> Under the dash ? Left hand or right hand side?
Possibly under the hood? Transmission whine? Steering noise? (change when steering?) Try to give me a bit more direction.
Sometime a relay will make that kind of noise and usually it is not a concern.
SID -
beep seems to be coming from the center of the drivers side dash about the steering column area but it is very faint it is not a whine or steering noise but a faint beep at approximately 5 second intervals
it does not change when steering
I am having a brake problem. It is hard to brake/ I have to press the brakes almost all the way to the floor just to have the car slow down. Sometimes I use the emergency brake to stop. I took it to a shop and they thought it was the brake booster. It turned out not to be. I am not seeing any leaks.
Bruce Kit -
Assuming that there are no leaks and all 4 calipers are performing adequatley, we can assume that the master cylinder is bypassing internally.A common scenario where brake fluid goes from 1 chamber to another.There will be no visible leaks, just a very bad brake pedal.
How common is this? Quite common. Being a Jag (read: expensive parts) ensure that the car is on a regular maintenance plan of regular brake fluid flushes/replacement.
New User -
How can I correct this issue and what parts will be needed.
Bruce Kit -
New master cylinder and brake fluid.Stat away from rebuilt master cylinders, they have too many problems.
I have installed a chev 350 and have a mechanical fuel pump. There is a cannister fuel filter that appears to be in the return line system. Anyway...
My right tank is receiving all the return fuel. It will eventually overfill and come out past the cap seals. I feel there is a switch/valve that has gotten tired. Where is it (are they)?
Chris -
If you can hang on until tommorow, I can check the system for you and let you know the location and possible causes. Thanks
Chris -
The descriptions I found on your car were vary vague. It looks as though the assembly in the right fuel tank is what you need to be looking at. The main pump is there along with the cross over to the left tank.
New User -
That's not much of an answer. There is no fuel pump there. As I said: It has a mechanical pump at the engine. Where is the transfer switch that makes the return fuel go back to the tank from which the fuel was taken? That is my question.
macconeck -
I have a few diagrams of the fuel systems and I am now looking for the return system
I will get right back to you
If you can give me a email address I can send you the typical diagram of the whole fuel system
macconeck -
There is a a main changeover valve in the trunk, which selects from which tank fuel is drawn, and two fuel return valves, which open and close in concert to return fuel to the proper tank.
Return valve operation is easily checked from outside the car. With the engine idling, open each fuel cap and using a flashlight and something like a long bladed screwdriver (to push open the spring-loaded lower flap) one can see the return fuel flow into the tank since the return fuel pipe is just below the tank’s filler neck. At idle, there should be a solid flow of fuel returning to the tank selected and no fuel flow at all into the other tank. Operate the changeover switch and recheck the return flows. The fuel should now be returning to the newly-selected tank only. If the fuel is returning into both tanks or into the wrong tank, there is a problem with one or both of the fuel return valves.
Sometimes return valve non-operation is due to varnish or similar trash and cleaning will restore the valve to function; sometimes the valve simply will be dead and require replacement.
New User -
Thank you so much. I would love a fuel line & wiring diagram. My E-Mail is: [redacted]
The tank selector is working fine - it is drawing from the correct tank. It would seem that it is the return valve(s) that is be clogged or broken. Regardless of which tank the fuel is coming from, it is being returned to the right-hand tank. It sounds like its one of the following:
The valve can't switch because its clogged;
or, it can't switch because its broken;
or, it isn't receiving a signal to switch. Agree?
A diagram will be very helpful. Thank you very much.
macconeck -
A typical fuel line diagran I found.
I have been looking for A wiring diagram for this I cannot obtain it at this point I will try another location
macconeck -
Now you can test for power at each valve and simutaneously check to see which ones are opening , it is still a 12 volt system and the switch will power up a tank and one side of the valve .
Whatever tank will be consistent with the valve being used a process of elimination.
Thank you for visiting. You will find thousands of car solutions here. You are welcome to find answers & solutions to your car questions.
This way to the live technicians
You are invited to try a valuable new system we're testing. We want to improve your experience with your car in every way possible. Please reserve today. There are only a trunk-load more free spots available.
Please put me on the list and keep me updated.
We respect your privacy and will never share your info with anyone.