Jeep TJ-Series

2007 Jeep TJ-Series Engine   

I replaced my Exhaust header today because it had a big crack in it. When I put the new header on I had a hard time getting the intake manifold to fit tight but put it as snug as possible. My question is when I went to fire it up it turned on and right away the engine reved up at a rapid pace but I shut it down before it could do harm. I checked the throttle body and tried starting it again but same thing happened. could it be that there is an air leak in the intake were I had problems tightening it, and it is messing up my air to fuel ratio. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
Patrick

Sorry it is 1999 Wrangler TJ 4.0L, inline six, thanks.

Patrick.
Yes, I am 100% convinced that you have a large vacuum leak, as the symptoms are correct. I hope that you upgraded with a header, such as offered by Borls, as the cost is OK and they do not crack and leak like the cast manifolds.

Thanks for your help. I did upgrade to a borla, its more heavy duty. I found the vacuum leak, I had a crack in my intake manifold, looks like I will be buying another manifold unless you have any other suggestions on how to fix the crack, that would be great.
Patrick

due to the expansion and contractions the metal makes when the intake gets hot and cold, a repair would only crack Patrick. Check out the autowreckers, as Jeep 4.0 motor is very common. When tightening it down, be careful to torque the bolts carefully.Good luck!

2004 Jeep TJ-Series Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always 

My jeep grinds when I push in the clutch and it wont go into gear. Could this be the linkage? If I have the car off it will go into gear and when I crank it it moves forward. Its like the clutch isnt disengaging from the flywheel. whats the fix? take it to the dealer?

The clutch system should be hydraulic (very similar to hydraulick brakes). Check the clutch master cylinder resorvoir (under hood, where the clutch comes through the firewall) to see if it is out of fluid. YOu may have a leaky slave cylinder (this is what actuates the throw out bearing) or even a bad hose from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Inspect thoroughly for signs of a leak.

If you have a minor leak (problem would of likely appeared by slowly getting worse) you can add fluid and bleed the system. Inspect for leaks. If none are found it should be safe to drive to a professional for inspection. Any reputable pro shoud be able to diagnose this problem, definintely stick with the dealer if you still are under warranty.

I checked the master cylinder and it has fluid in it and currently I cannot drive the vehicle because it will not go into gear. it just happened all the sudden. is it possible to get water in something that would cause it not to work anymore because I live on a dirt road and drive through fairly deep puddles alot.

Well, the hydraulic system is sealed so not likely. If something was broken beyond the slave cylinder, the slave cylinder usually will blow its seal and leak. I guess there could be a problem with the shift fork or throw-out/release bearing that would not be visible upon inspection.

If you think water intrusion is possible, try bleeding fresh fluid through the system. BTW- It seems you are unfamiliar with hydraulic clutch systems, I should ask to be sure that you checked the clutch reservoir and not brake fluid reservoir.

Is it possible that I could have gotten water in the bellhousing by driving through too deep of water and knocked someting loose that would cause the clutch to not properly disengage? What could fix this so I could drive it to the dealership for further inspection?

It would be more likely that say your slave cylinder/clutch system was bound by a rock/stick/etc that was stirred up in the water.

Have you checked your insurance policy to see if they cover towing? Some do.

2004 Jeep TJ-Series Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a knocking / vibration that sounds like it's coming from the drivetrain . It goes away once i get up to highwayspeed. It also goes away when i am driving slow and i shift into 4wheel drive. Once it's in 4wheel everything works and sounds fine.

hi, can you try something for me then get back to me with the results now try this in 2wd first find a big car park or open space then whilst in 2wd turn the steering full lock to the left and then drive round in tight circle whilst on full lock repeat this on right turn and see what noises you hear and if they get any worse then try this in 4wd repeat the process the same as 2wd then get back to me with the results ok

Okay while turning in 2wd same knocking sound not any worse and otherwise fine. While in 4wd other than the grabbing because of the pavement with the tight turn i noticed when turning turning to the left it made more of a almost rubbing noise. The tires don't rub at all so i know thats not it. I am wondering if it's a ujoint. I hope it's not transfer case issues i don't think it is because 4wd drive works great .

it dont sound like its the transfer case to me either as the noise would have got alot worse on full lock whilst driving so that could rule out that being the cause of the problem.
To me it also sounds like some sort of bush has failed and will need replacing, are you sure if the noise is coming from the front or back of the vehicle, also try finding a bumpy road and drive down it and see if the noise is their more on a bumpy road if it was more noisy or loader then this indicates bushes gone such as roll bar bushes, suspension bushes etc but as the noise is only their in 2wd then this points towards the problem being at the rear of the car so this means the noise is their due to the extra pressure the drive is put under due to the 2wd only driving the car, so this suggests maybe propshaft bearing,
is their anyway you can jack it up put it on stands and give the wheels a good wiggle to test for play what you could also try is get some one to help you nad with both the back wheels off the floor turn them both by hand in a forward direction as if the car was driving doing this may give you the chance of pim pointing the noise if their is no noise like this then the noise only happens under load indicating either bushes gone etc.

get back to me with what you find and ill see what i can find out for you ok
also is their a whining noise or is it just knocking noise
also try this with the park break on try putting the car in forward and revers and put pressure on the brake and see if you then hear the noise whilst stationary as do it as if your trying to pull away but dont move anywhere just put pressure on the drive train and see if you hear the noise

let me know what you find out ok

2002 Jeep TJ-Series Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a jeep with automatic lights, and the headlights have daytime running, how can I disconnect the daytime running feature.

The dealership can usually do this (or an independendent with a capable scan tool) with by reprogramming the computer.

If you must avoid a visit to the dealer:

http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Jeep

Copy and Paste the link into your Address bar. Scroll down to the Jeep section. These instructions are not from the manufacturer nor have they been approved by the man.

2001 Jeep TJ-Series Electrical / Lighting Systems   

This is a 2001 TJ Wrangler with the 4.0 Lieter engine The brake lights suddenly stoped working although the turn signals, back up lights and running lights still function normally. THe center stop light works also. Whe have changed the bulbes and checked all connections but still no luck. We have also but in a new switch on the brake pedel. Can you make any sense out of this?

Hi, Do you have a digital multimeter or a 12 volt test light to do some testing with?

Does battery power arrive at the brake light switch connector? When you press the brake pedal does power leave the switch?

Does your vehicle use the same bulb for turn signals as for brake lights?

Roger

it was a loose connector. Thanks but we fixed it already.

To receive a refund and withdraw your question please write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, www.all-parts.com and make your request known.

If you are agreeable to accepting my answer and insted want to close the question (which will allow me to be paid) just click on OK to finish up.

Your call, thanks!

Roger

1998 Jeep TJ-Series Engine Hesitating When driving No pattern

I have a '98 Jeep wrangler with 2.5L 4cyl 5sp, that has been hesitating a lot. While hesitating, I've noticed that the tachometer will fall down to 0 RPM, then back to original RPM; I've also noticed the tachometer will increase in RPM, momentarily, then fall back down to original RPM without any noticable increase in actual engine speed. The hesitation varies from bad to worse. Sometimes it may just hesitate slightly; and sometimes it may hesitate so bad that it appears if the engine was turned off then turned back on, when it does this, the check engine light comes on momentarily. I've replaced the following parts trying to solve the problem with no luck: Throttle Postion sensor, oxygen sensor, Fuel pump and filter, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, and an air filter. I've also cleaned the throttle body and used higher octane gas along with fuel injector cleaner. Would someone PLEASE help me resolve my problem. THANKS

"Have you checked the diagnostic trouble codes? Autozone will check the codes for free. The trouble code should point to the culprit.
Ever heard of a wiggle test? This is an attempt to find a bad connection, wire, etc. Start the engine. Then wiggle wiring harnesses, grounds, battery cables, slightly wiggle around ignition switch, etc hoping to recreate the tach dropping off. If this only happens upon acceleration, try to wiggle wires that correspond to the normal flex of the engine. Please use extreme caution around moving engine parts!

Any luck with the Jeep?

I would concentrate on the ignition switch and the pick up coil (sometimes called hall effect switch) in the distributor.

These can be tough to track down. You may need to have a scanner hooked to your jeep to determine where the problem is originating (in real time.) You can still replace the defective parts yourself. Make sure you get a driveability specialist to troubleshoot problem.
If you wish for input from other mechanics at this site I will release the question.

Still no luck. I've performed the wiggle test on my jeep already with no success. I went to Autozone, and they scanned my jeep for codes, but no trouble codes came up. They Autozone guy said that if my check engine light would've still been on when he scanned it, he would've gotten some results from the scan. But thanks for the good suggetions.

Is the ignition pick up the same thing as the camshaft postion sensor. I've been looking for the part and some stores call it different things.
thanks.

I think chrysler calls it a crank sensor.
But yes, you could very well find it listed as a camshaft sensor.

I would recommend you purchase a factory service manual. Study the ignition circuit then monitor it to find problem.
An alternative to a costly factory manual is a do it yourself subscription from alldata.com
It will cost 20-25 dollars for a one year subscription. THis will include diagrams, troubleshooting and repair instructions, and technical service bulletins.

Common Haynes or Chilton brand manuals may not have enough information.

1998 Jeep TJ-Series Fuel System   

I have a 1998 Jeep TJ 2.5L. My battery went dead the other day and I recharged and cleaned all the posts/terminals. Now it turns over but does not start. I replaced the cap,rotor, plugs,and fuel pump. still nothing. It ran fine until the battery went dead. the pump does not seem to be activating as I hear nothing when the key is turned on. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

Check the fusable links and the smaller wires at the battery + pos terminal.Sounds like it might have a smaller bad connection there.A volt/ohm meter or test light will work for that.
Assuming that you checked all the fuses.
Bruce

Bruce,

Checked all the fuses and maxifuses. also the pos leads look good. When the battery was dead and I tried to recharge the maxifuse that is tied to the auto shut down or ASD was clicking. Is there a reset procedure?

Also, replaced the battery but seems to be draining down. Switch is off and not interior lights or switches are on. Thought that might help.

Might be the ASD faulty. The Computer controls it and the Cam and Crank position sensors control the computer.If ASD warm to touch, it might be faulty

1997 Jeep TJ-Series Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always 

My instrument backlighting went out suddenly. The headlights work. I checked the fuses, pulled the instrument cluster and did a basic continuity check of the illumination light sockets, checked all bulbs, plus the pigtails for power and grounding. They all check out ok. What have I not thought of to check? Is it possible that there is a small imperfection in the circuit board that I'm not seeing? The Jeep has 103k miles on it.

Having been a Chrysler technician and having seen this before,we would replace the cluster unit .. that is if all your other illuminations were working i.e.... radio, a/c controls ect. Usually only one of two problems.. headlamp switch (which sounds like you eliminated) or cluster

Thanks for the info. I have one other followup question for you on this. If I replace the cluster, is the odometer display information stored in the computer, or the cluster itself? If it is in the cluster, what would I do about odometer statements?

odometer info is stored in cluster memory

1997 Jeep TJ-Series Fuel System Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

the vehicle hesitates when accelerating. especially from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th.Usally after the engine is warm and you drive it a second time, we have replaced both 02 sensors,fuel pump,cat,pcm and various other parts that I can't remember right now.

Try checking the TPS (throttle position sensor) to see if it may be the problem.

Does the check engine light come on while the engine is running?

This information assumes a tune-up has been performed with new spark plugs and spark plug wires.

1997 Jeep TJ-Series Fuel System Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

vehicle hesitates from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th after engine is warm.No codes or ck engine light has ever come on. We have replaced both 02 sensors, cat,a cracked intake manifold, pcm and various other parts.Nothing has helped. I have had this problem for several years it's just getting worse.

No codes, might mean the trouble might be clutch and or trans problem....probably clutch.

What kind of problem with the clutch?

If the clutch is slipping, it might be not as apparent in first gear, as the gear ratio is much lower.
Reasons for clutch slipping?
Worn clutch
Out of adjustment
Oil on clutch
The last. I have seen quite often, because of a valvecover leak (common) or a crankshaft real seal leak (also common)
An oil contaminated clutch cannot be cleaned, just replaced.
Rear seal leak on some vehicles is such a common problem that I like to do the rear seal whenever I do the clutch, even if the seal is dry at that time.
I hate goung back in,3 months after the clutch job, to do a seal!

It's not the clutch. Any other ideas?

Could you further describe the hesitation?

Is the hesitation only at lower RPM's?

Does full power resume (once you approach highway speed)?

The hestitation is at lower speeds, but it feels like it is not getting fuel.You have to let up on the gas pedal then it goes a little better and shift to the next gear.

Try temporarily plugging off the egr valve and test driving. Any improvement?

Have you tested the map sensor?

This vehicle does not have an egr, and I have replaced the map sensor, crankshaft sensor, throttle postion sensor fuel pump under warranty about 5 yrs ago, exhaust manifold,cat, both 02 sensor, spark plugs, wires, cap,& rotor.

I poted info a few days ago and have not gotten a reply. what is going on?

Sorry for the delay.

YOu will need to monitor fuel pressure with a gauge when the problem is present. Either fuel pressure is dropping off, a sensor value is incorrect, or there is a problem with the computer.

One the computor is new and two how do you monitor fuel pressure with gauge when you drive vehicle. This is the only time this problem happens.I did test fuel pressure and it 49psi

1997 Jeep TJ-Series All Part Groups   

I just brought my TJ in to the shop to have new headers installed,a lightbar, new u joints and a spinndle bearing. Everything was done and my mechanic went to take it for a test drive but about a mile down the road the jeep just died. It was towed back to the garage where we looked over it for a while testing all connections and what not and we found that there was power going to everything but the guages, and the engine wasnt getting a spark. We went to hook the OBDII up and it didnt recognize the vehicle and suddently we smelt gasoline from the front of the car. We descovered that gas was pooring out of the trottle bodyand being pumped even though the car was off we are extremely confused...

Carefully have your mechanic disconnect the battery to avoid a fire.

This is not a normal problem you are having, I have to question the wiring that was done. Start by unplugging everything that was wired up.

Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay. A major clean up job is necessary when that much gasoline has entered the engine. I shouldn't need to tell you how explosive that much gasoline is. DO NOT attempt to start the engine or turn the key on until the gasoline has been evacuated from the engine.

When you get the gasoline taking care of, check the fuses. You need to be able to communicate with computer, but this may not be possible until you undo whatever wiring problem was created with the recent install.

1997 Jeep TJ-Series Engine   

HI WHEN I START UP THE FIRST TIME JEEP STARTS MISSES THEN DIES. THE SECOND TIME IT KEEPS RUNNING AFTER A SLIGHT HESITATION. OTHER WISE SEEMS TO RUN GREAT.MY JEEP HAS THE 4CLYINDER IN IT AND IS AUTOMATIC. THANKS FOR ANY HELP ON THIS.

You will probably need to check the fuel pressure to see if it's bleeding down. This applies if it happens after the vehicle has sat for a while. Is it worse if you press the accelerator, probably to point of cutting out quickly? This would tend to indicate inadequate fuel supply.

1997 Jeep TJ-Series Engine   

When I start the car it overrevs or overspeeds out of of control.It will not idle properly.

There are few things check out before I suggest taking to a shop.. you will want to make sure the throttle is fully closed....
You will want to check the operation of the IAC(idle are control valve).. and also make sure you have NO vacuum leaks... make sure all vacuum lines are connected and not split.. Something making it rev so high would be a bigger hose...like brake booster hose or leak in intake manifold,throttle plate gasket... tony

I checked the hoses, gasket, no change. I get engine trouble code 14, and 25.
Thanks

ok,Well, 14 is a map sensor code, and 25 is target idle not reached. Since its idling high,we know the 25 is an effect,not the cuase. Now, the map sensor will need to be checked,check the vacuum line going to it. make sure the electrical connector is tight. If still a problem,have the sensor checked at a part store. This problem could be the cause of the idle...or A vacuum problem that was talked about earlier,as the map sensor measures vacuum to operate correctly.

in your opinion could a bad map sensor have the ability to cause the engine to overspeed so much, I'm talking like you have the accelerator pushed to the floor. Thanks

A bad map sensor can cause a high idle, and can also cause a no start.. its a major sensor..Vacuum is one of the most important readings from a car..

1997 Jeep TJ-Series Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I,m wiring up some extra driving lights and need to know which color wire is for my high beams.

Wiring diagrams show Red/Org for most Jeeps. Is this a Wrangler? Red/Org is hi beams.

Roger

1997 Jeep TJ-Series Fuel System   

hi,my 97 wrangler tj starts and idle ok,but if you start pressing the gas, it hesitates,sputters,backfires,and dies, and the tach goes up and down.once the problem starts,it usually dies and cant be started. after a few minutes,you can start it and it idles smoothly. but as soon as you put gas to it,it starts again. if you start and just idle, it will run for quite awhile, and then sputter and die. vehicle is not drivable. ive changed plugs,wire,dist cap,rotor,oil, filter,ran seafoam thru the fuel system,cleaned the throttle body, drain the gas tank, and put new fuel in. it a 4 cylinder 2.5l.what should i check next?

You really should scan it for codes, to see if it is a sensor and or computer problem.Also, sometimes when the catalytic converter is getting plugged it will exhibit similar symptoms.
I am also assuming that with the work you did, you also changed the fuel filter?

i was told the filter is part of the fuel pump assy in the gas tank, i dont have a scanner, and the vehicle will not make it to the local autozone or dealer.

also,it doesnt have a catalytic converter any more.
one more thing, i can make it start bogging by shaking or bouncing on the jeep.

Try wiggling the wiring instead of shaking the Jeep, it might be an electrical connectio.
Or you might have a serious case of H2O in the gas tank. If that were the case, additives are usually not a fix, but drain and fill would be better, and replace the filter. I know there is a screen type filter in the tank, but follow the line, there should be a more accessable one, either along the frame or on the firewall.

i tried wiggling the wiring and when i wiggled the wire near the throttle body, the engine died. wiggling some more caused the fuel pump to come on, but now it doesnt come on and it wont start. i borrowed a code reader and got codes p0123, and p1391"manufacturer control ignition system misfire"
i know the first on is the tps, but what about the second one? and could this be the cause of my problems?

Get an ohm meter and test the throttle body wiring. Sounds like a broken wire or bad connection.

i replaced the tps sensor and the cranshaft position sensor and it no longer has the problem. thank you for all your help.

1994 Jeep TJ-Series Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

The jeep starts and revs fine with no hesitation. When you drive it just dies with no warning. Sometime it is at high speed or when you just try to take off. After it dies you have to wait about 45 seconds and then it will start right up again. Pelase help.

Jeeps have had widespread failure of the crankshaft sensor. Test and replace as necessary.

Use the following link for a repair guide that'll have the instructions you need-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear