Jeep Wrangler

2007 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

I have a 95 Wrangler 4cyl. It starts and idles fine, however after driving it starts sputtering like it is not getting fuel. This only happens when driving if stopped and idleing it runs fine. The problem is not constant and only seems to be happening after diving a short while. I am wondering if it could be caused by some sensor.

Does it also sputter if you rev the engine in neutral?

Misfiring on acceleration or under load can also be caused by spark plugs, wires, corrosion at coil tower, etc. When was the last tune-up, with these parts and a new fuel filter?

It has not been sputtering when in neutral or when the clutch is engaged. I do not remember when the spark plug wires or fuel filter were changed. I know it has been awhile.

This is a common occurance on Jeeps when they have a bad oxygen sensor.

When in neutral, if you rev the engine does it still sputter?

You shoud definitely start with new spark plugs, wires, and a fuel filter. Try these and we'll go from there.

It does not sputter at all in neutral. The problem occurs only after diving a little while. After about 10 to 15 miles. It is also not constant. I may drive several miles and it will sputter for a few seconds and then not do it again for a few miles. This is while driving a constant speed. Also I have noticed that the RPM's will drop, I noticed it drop to 0 for a second. None of the other gauges fluctuate. No light flicker. I am going to replace the filter and plugs and check all wires.

2006 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

THE IGNITION FUSE WILL BLOW AFTER THE VEHICLE GETS HOT BUT ONLT WHEN YOU TRY TO RESTART THE VEHICLE

Hi, Check the wire that the ignition switch makes hot when in the start position. This wire will go to the starter solenoid to energize it. Look for places where it may be in a bind or has rested on a metal edge and insulation is bruised.

Roger

HAVE LOOKED AS FAR AS THE WIRE IS EXPOSED WAS WONDERING IF THIER IS AN RELAY OR CONTROL BOX COVERED IN THE START CIRCUIT

What engine please?

Roger

Is it fuse #6 (30 amp), or #22 (20 amp) that blows??

Roger

FUSE #22 BLOWS WHEN SWITCH IS TURNED ON BEFORE YOU TRY TO START

THIS VEHICLE HAS A 4.0 AUTOMATIC BUT IT IS A RHD

Would you like a wiring diagram? I'll need your email address or a fax number...

Roger

PLEASE SEND ME THE DIAGRAM SEND IT TO [redacted]
THANKS LEE

It's on the way.

Roger

Lee,

I sent the power distribution as well. There may be a place on the Red wire between Fuse #22 and the ignition switch that is grounded, but I doubt it as I think Fuse #22 is hot at all times.

When the ignition has been turned on then the ignition switch terminals 2 and 7 are powered up. If one of those circuits has a short BEFORE the wire gets to the first consumer on the circuit, Fuse #22 will blow.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Lee, How are you doing on this one?

Roger

SORRY TOOK SO LONG GETTING BACK JUST SENT IT TO THE DEALER BELONGS TO MY EX AND STILL HAS WARRANTY
THANKS LEE

Ready to close this question? Please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

2006 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline   

when I get my jeep up to 45mph i get this pinging noise (sounds like a diesel)coming from the transmission I believe..once i reach 50mph it will stop

Sounds like a rattle coming from cat converter, as it is beside trans. Should be under warranty?

2005 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

my jeep has a new engine in it with 500 miles. At 55-65mph, when I try to pass another vehicle, etc, the noise from the engine gets louder, with no difference in RPMs, and the vehicle bogs out and goes slower.

From what you explain it seems that your knock sensorn may be retarding the timing comphensating for the noise.
What engine do you have in the jeep?
This is all controlled by the computer in your jeep, the PCM.
have you had the PCM scanned for any error codes since the engine has been replaced? is there any check engine light flashes appearing? are there any other problems that may be relating to this that you are aware of?

my jeep is a 05 rubicon, with the 4.0l I6. It was checked by both myself (using the key/trip reset button and key methods) and a scanner at the shop. Both have come up no codes of any type.

one more thing. My Optima yellow top battery failed last night, blowing the plugs out and fuming badly. The battery became extrememly hot, and it was replaced today with a OEM battery. I just drove it again, to try and figure it out. It almost acts like there is a governor installed that won't allow the vehicle to go above 3300 rpms in any gear except 2nd. I don't know

It is too bad that the PCM does not give info when you need it.
If this is a consistent problem?. Does it happen always or periodically?

it started about 3 days ago. and it now happens all of the time, if the vehicle is floored at any time, or attempting to pass above 55-65mph. And yes, the computer sucks for not telling me anything

Well the good thing you have going for you is that it is consistent and now you can start with unplugging a component at a time and see if there is a change.
You can do it that way or start testing your emissions parts and see that they are recieving and sending the right voltages.
you may need to monitor your fuel pressure live while punching it to see if there is a drop during that accelleration.

ok. This you will have to tell my how to do. I have only basic tools, etc, but I am a quick learner.

Ok I will need a email adress that I can send some information to with some illustrations also .
I cannot do it through here as it will not allow pictures.
Do you have the ohv engine or the ohc?

good question... if by OHV & OHC, you mean over head valve or overhead cam... I am sorry that I can't be of more help on this one. The engine is a Powertech inline 6. best I can do. my email address is [redacted]

Ok that would be Over hed valve.
Are there any components that you used off of the old engine that was put onto your's?

I need you to look at the engine and verify some information for me.
I am assuming that you have the combination manifold[The intake and exhaust is one unit and comes off as one piece] is this correct?
if so these are the components that we will want to start with repair replace disconecting and start testing.

Start with the fuel pressure, you will need a fuel pressure gauge with a long enough hose to reach through the fire wall and you will have to monitor it for that accelleration moment at the 55 to 60 mph to see if there is a significant drop or change in the pressure.
Before doing the driving fuel pressure test
do a engine start up pressure test with high throttle accelleration with car in park first, get the results.
From there we can go to electrical components
this is probly one of the most differcult and important tasks.
Here you will need a node light tester to check the fuel injectors.

The intake and exhaust seems to be on the same side (drv's side). The head and up is from my original engine, everthing down is new. The air intake is an AEM Brute Force (have had it since I bought it, never had an issue before). If you can send the instructions on how to do all the stuff you just said, that would be great. Also, it is 1220 in the morning where I am. Just got back from Iraq, stationed in Germany. Will have to get the gauges and everything in about 9 hours. Sorry for the inconvience.

if for some reason the 1st email address doesn't work, please try: [redacted] Thanks in advance

I will wait for your feedback before going to the next step.
I do not want to give you uneccessary information,just as we go through each check i will send what you need.
What service are you in

I am in the Army (Infantry). Was in Baghdad this time around.
You are going to have to tell me how to set up the equipent with my jeep. by the way, I noticed something today while I was driving it. It might be my air filter setup. As I was driving, I was paying attention to the sound of the intake. AEMs are loud. As the resonance changed in the intake pipe, so did the amount of power that I was getting at different RPMs. I am wondering if the mix is getting too lean as the engine is sucking more air in? Sounds viable

It could be again your computer compensating for some component going in and out.
We will be able to check thing s out better after a few tests.
I will send you the info on doing a fuel pressue test in your email.
I am a x-marine, just keep alert and most of all keep alive and may Gods blessings be with you and yours always.

thanks. I just hope that everyone (civie) in the states feels like the soldiers of the different branches are doing their best. That is all that I could ever ask. Thanks for the help with this by the way.

Do you have multi-port fuel injection 9That is with 6 individual fuel injectors , or do you have a carbuerator throttle body type injector/
If you look on the side of the intake manifold there should be a valve there that resembles a air valve stem klike what you see on a bicycle inner tube.
I need this info before I send you testing methods.

Is your wrangler the
1-sport
2-unlimited or
3-the X
4-rubicon

I have a 2005 Jeep Rubicon

Do you have multi-port fuel injection 9That is with 6 individual fuel injectors , or do you have a carbuerator throttle body type injector.

If I am correct, it has 6 fuel injectors. Sorry

Ok I will send the info via email now

just got the email. thanks. Sorry for taking so long to reply. Downgrading from Vista to Win XP on my computer. Lots of reboots

I understand

so, I went all over this engine looking for the fuel pressure test port. Nada... But I did try the second option of unplugging the relay. The instructions say to remove the relay, and then start the engine. Mine didn't start at all. I was able to get the code of P 0627 without the relay in. Any ideas?

ok, today I got the check engine light... codes are:
P2048 and P0627. I got the P0627 last night when I pulled the relay. but the P2048 as far as I can tell has something to do with an injector... Now what?

OOPS! I got the number wrong... it is P2098... post catalyst fuel trim something or other... Sorry about the error with the previous message.

p067 is the Cruise - Switch Shorted
Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Low Limit A few guesses would be contaminated fuel, vaccum leak, O2 sensor, exhuast leak, or engine mechanical problems. Also you should make sure you have not made any mods. or added anything to your fuel that could effect your fuel/air mixture.
With all the codes you have you will still need to take a corner and start from there.
I would say to continue on the same path we are headed on and see if we cannot get rid of some of these codes buy finding a problem or two and fixing it.

2005 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

Recently i made a snorkel and it was idleing at 500 rpms. Just like 2 days ago it started idleing at 1000 rpms, the engine is not running rough but is this cause for concern. When i put it in park it idles at like 1100 rpms and thats what im worried about that. Does anybody know why it would be doing this? Thanks for the help

2005, Are you still under warranty?

Has the check engine light come on?

Typical causes are a stuck idle speed motor, sensor out of range (temperature or throttle position), or a vacuum leak.

2005 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

Won't start. Replaced fuel pump. Starts sometimes. Runs rough. Jerky acceleration.

Hello, Please tell me the series Wrangler this Jeep is and the engine size it has. Sport? SE? X? Unlimited?

Do you have a code reader or scanner to test for diagnostic codes set?

Have the spark plugs been inspected for fuel soaking and overall condition?

Do you have a noid light to test injector operation?

Please advise,

Roger

Please tell me the series Wrangler this Jeep is and the engine size it has. Sport? SE? X? Unlimited?
A:X

Do you have a code reader or scanner to test for diagnostic codes set?
A:YES 4WheelParts in Chula Vista has them. They will email to me on Monday.

Have the spark plugs been inspected for fuel soaking and overall condition?
A:I don't know.

Do you have a noid light to test injector operation?
I don't know what that is.

A noid light is a test light that fits the (unpluged) connector that fits onto an injector. When the engine is cranking or running this light will blink if there is a signal sent to fire the injector in question. Pretty handy and lets you have your hands free.

When the engine starts and runs rough one can unplug a spark plug wire to see if the engine gets even worse. If not, test that cylinder's injector with the noid light and see if the noid light flashes when it is connected in place of the injector itself. If it does, shut down the engine and inspect the spark plug for that cylinder. Is the spark plug dry due to no fuel being injected? Clean/replace the injector as needed. If the plug is wet with fuel replace the wire or spark plug.

Would you like for me to email where the connectors are that you would plug into each other to check for codes? I can do this for you tonight if you will advise your email address.

Roger

Ooops!! I have messed up. Jeeps need the OBD II Scanner or Code Reader to extract codes. The business of plugging two connectors together to get codes does not apply to your vehicle.

Sorry for the confusion,

Roger

Yes, please send the connector diagram to [redacted] .



"A noid light is a test light that fits the (unpluged) connector that fits onto an injector. When the engine is cranking or running this light will blink if there is a signal sent to fire the injector in question. Pretty handy and lets you have your hands free.

When the engine starts and runs rough one can unplug a spark plug wire to see if the engine gets even worse. If not, test that cylinder's injector with the noid light and see if the noid light flashes when it is connected in place of the injector itself. If it does, shut down the engine and inspect the spark plug for that cylinder. Is the spark plug dry due to no fuel being injected? Clean/replace the injector as needed. If the plug is wet with fuel replace the wire or spark plug.

Would you like for me to email where the connectors are that you would plug into each other to check for codes? I can do this for you tonight if you will advise your email address.

Repeating:

Oct 9/10 6:45PM: "Ooops!! I have messed up. Jeeps need the OBD II Scanner or Code Reader to extract codes. The business of plugging two connectors together to get codes does not apply to your vehicle.

Sorry for the confusion,

Roger"

Here are the engines from 4WheelParts in Chula Vista, CA

P0171B – Bank 1 System too lean

P0174B – Bank 2 System too lean

P0463 – Fuel Level Sensor A circuit high input

Let's begin by having the fuel pressure tested. 59 +/- 5 PSI is needed.

I have emailed a 17 page troubleshooting chart for the P0171/P0174 codes. Please check your email inbox, spam/junk mail folders for Subject 05 Wrangler X.

Code P0463 does not speak to starting/running the engine so that will come later.

I pray you have the use of a scanner and digital multi-meter.

Roger

2004 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline   

2 things.
1. When I drive on the freeway in my 2k4 jeep wrangler (2wd of course) for 20 minutes or more, come to a stop, then make a turn there is a grinding noise. It does not happen if I move forward 10 feet before turning the wheel.
2. New problem just today. I went for a site visit and used 4wheel drive, both low and high. When I got off the site, and on to pavement, it made a new grinding noise while making a sharp turn at slow speed in 4 wheel drive. 4 wheel drive off and the noise went away. Thanks in advance.
-B

On question 1, where is the grinding noise?

2. Was this noise as if a front and rear tire/wheel were fighting each other? What sometimes happens is the front and rear wheels are not allowed to turn at different speeds. In many jeeps it was caused by the viscous coupling, it depends which transfer case you have.

Have the universal joints been replaced?

Has the lubricant in the differential ever been changed?

On question 1, where is the grinding noise? - It is in the front of the vehicle, maybe toward the front passenger side wheel. It only happens after I have gone highway speeds for 15 minutes or more.

Question 2 - Yes I had the dealer service the differential not more than 8,000 miles ago. At that time, they checked the U-joints and said they were ok. I am not sure if i trust the dealer cause if they would be obligated to repair it cause I just bought it from them.

Okay,

If you still are under warranty document the problem thoroughly. Some car dealers are notorious for not seeing/hearing/feeling a problem while the warranty is in effect. When the warranty is up they tend to make a discovery. Make sure not to miss any maintenance as they will look for anything to avoid responsibility.

See if you can get a free estimate somewhere else. Another dealership, if available, would be great.

It sounds like someone else traded the vehicle in (possibly) because of the current problems.

In any event the vehicle has a problem and they need to take car of the problem. Service like this and they wonder why everyone is buying Toyota's.

2003 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always Always

I cant get my 4wd to engage. When I shift to 4wd, the drive shaft turns but the front wheels dont pull. Could this be the front shaft shift motor or is it something in the transfer case?

The front shift motor (front axle actuator) is not working.

2003 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline   

My 2003 automatic Wrangler only has 40k miles. It sputters/hesitates sometimes during idling, but mostly upon acceleration from stop and almost always between 2000RPM and 2500RPM / 50MPH and 60 MPH. It seemed a little better after a tune-up but is getting worse again. It even cut off while I was braking and almost stopped at a traffic light. Any ideas? :)

any check engine or o2 lights on dash

None at all. I don't understand it.

check fuel pressure

Thanks and will do ASAP. Will keep you posted! :)

did you find problem

2001 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

I have a 2.5l that's only getting about 16 miles per gallon on the highway, and that's at 55-60 mph. it's got about 80,000 miles on it, but it used to get 19-22. could different tires cause this? 30x9.50 BFG all-terrains. changes plugs, wires, and cap. am i asking too much or can i get better mileage?

A significant increase in tire size will hurt fuel economy.

A lazy Oxygen Sensor can also cause a loss of fuel economy, as well as erronous readings from other sensors. If the plugs had black sooty deposits on them this is a clear sign of a rich mixture.

Also try different brands of gasoline. This can make more of a difference than many realize. This is especially true with the blending that goes on with gas (for winter seasons, etc).

If the check engine light is on let me know, as this will likely point to an offending sensor that is hurting fuel economy.

the check engine light WAS on, but that was a result of a crappy aftermarket gas cap, and it went off when replaced with an OEM cap bought from dealer.

i went from 23575 ( i think ) to 30x9.50 tires. is that significant enough to make such a large impact? and what about the fuel filter?

Definitely change the fuel filter if it is due, this is a maintenance item anyway so you have nothing to lose.

The oxygen sensor is likely at the end of its lifespan, so it might not be a bad idea to change- if it is original. You would want to change the one before the converter. These get slow over time, and sometimes pay for themselve with improved fuel economy.

Also, if you have any vacuum leaks they can hurt fuel economy.

The tires will make a difference, but hopefully you can make up some of the difference.

2001 Jeep Wrangler Windows / Glass   

Front Passenger seat-back upholstery removal: I need to remove the fabic upholstery on the front passenger seat-back in order to adjust the tension cable for the seat-release hinge spring. I observe that the seat-back upholstery has a long interlocking plastic clip with 3 narrow opening. The clip is at the back-bottom of the seat back. Please describe with pictures how to remove the interlocking clip and re-install the clip when I am done.

The only special tool needed is a c clamp compresser looks like a pair of pliers
with no teeth
You will need to cut the old ones off
the other clips can be slid off once the pressure of the fabric is released
You will see it better when the seat is up and turned
I do not have pictures that acually show the using of the tool, but I hope this helps

Macconick -
I'm Bill. So I paid the $19.50 to get some specific advice that I couldn't by looking at Haynes, Chilton manuals. Maybe you can give some details about where I am going to be cutting out the clip. I assume that the tool you mentioned "C" type compression wrench would be used to snap the replacement clip together when I reassemble the upholstery. In any event, I am a neophyte and need the information given in steps. Thanks.

You can release the quetion at anytime to another for furtur help I canot obtain a detailed diagram Maybe someone does have it and can help you further
By the way you do not pay untill you feel that your question has been answersd promptly

The seat has to be removed, the side trim has to be removed (screws), turn the seat parts upside down.You will see the fabric has a bead or welt stiched in along the edge.There are small wire rings that go around the welting and to the seat frame.
I usually cut them, but with a bit or patience, you could bend open the rings and remove them for reuse (although they are cheap) Then the cover comes off. Reassemble in reverse.Special plires are helpful (and also cheap) but with a bit of patience a normal pair of slip joint pliers will suffice. The pliers to use have a small groove in their opening, so they do not slip off the wire clips.To acess the cable, you probably do not have to remove the entire cover, just as required to acess the release cable.;

2001 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

Hello,

I have a Jeep 2001 Wrangler Sport and having troubles starting it. Basically this is what happens everytime I go to start the Jeep:

* The first time I try to start my Jeep, it justs sits there and keeps cranking, but does not start.

* When I try to start the Jeep a second time, it starts up right off, but idles really low, and almost dies. But after about 10 to 15 seconds, it runs well.

* When I stop the jeep and shut it off (even for about 10 minutes), then it only starts on the second try again.

I put in a new battery last fall and new plugs recently. I have had this problem the past 4 to 5 months. The outside temperature does not seem to affect the problem. Also, I have checked and there are no engine or other codes showing. Any help, is much appreciated.

Thanks much.

It sounds like you are having a problem with your camshaft position sensor.
codes do not always show up when you need them to and you can be experiencing engine trouble simutaneously.

Hello,

Thanks much for your reply and help. Is there a way to test the Camshaft sensor, or just best to replace it?

Thank you,

John

Near the rear of the right cylinder head, disconnect CPS wiring harness connector from main wiring harness.
Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (as you look at the sensor the sleeve catch is at the top and the smoothe oval is at the bottom)
of the CPS connector. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if resistance is indicated

2001 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

Hello,

I am still having some issues with my 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0 liter. I had written/asked a question in the past that my Jeep does not start at all the first time I turn the key/crank the engine. The Jeep will start the second time I turn the key, but once it starts, it almost dies (almost sounds like it will backfire, Jeep shaking, running very rough, idling very low). But after a few minutes, runs ok.

The last time I wrote/asked a question, it was suggested that my camshaft sensor be replace. I have replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, but still having the same problem. Actually things are getting worse, and now receiving and engine light. When I borrowed a friends code reader, I am seeing codes P0300, P0301, and P0302 (misfires).

Also, when the Jeep starts, if I let sit a few minutes, then try to start, it start ups on first try/key turn. But if I let the Jeep sit for longer than 5 minutes, then have trouble starting.

Any help much appreciated as things seem to be getting worse, and I'd really like to fix this myself.

Thanks you.

Hi, Please consider checking the fuel pressure. Also, run a fuel rail leak down test to see if the rail stays pressured up or bleeds down too quickly.

When the engine does not want to start check for spark.

Please advise,

Roger

2000 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The brake lights will not go off. The stay on when the brake petal is not depressed and will not go off.

The switch on the pedal, or at the base of the steering column is either out of adjustment, sticking or has failed. It is about 3/4 the way up the pedal lever.

2000 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

My Jeep is 6 cylinder. It has always been difficult to start, taking sometimes 3 or 4 tries. Now sometimes it wont start at all just cranks. When you do get it started at freeway speed it wont accelerate and starts sputering. Mechanic changed the crank sensor but did not fix the problem. The Jeep only has 50K miles.

Is the check engine light on? Will a shot of starting fluid help it start up? If so, look for a weak fuel pump. Check for a stong spark at the plugs.

The Jeep has electronic ignition

Thats right. Is the check engine light on? Are the spark plugs in good condition? Will it start better with a shot of starting fluid?

2000 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

I am getting a rotten eggs smell coming from my defroster vent along with a little smoke. What is causing this problem?

It sounds like you have an exhaust leak that is coming into the cabin. This must be serviced right away, do not drive with the windows rolled up. The rotten egg smell is usually from the catalytic converter.

Does the check engine light come on at anytime the engine is running? Or any other driveability concerns?

2000 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

my 2000 jeep wrangler will not start, im getting no bus i have bought and changed the computer, and the crank censor, and the cluster, and it still wont start, and the bus still comes up. can you please help me? thank you

What do you mean when you say "no bus"?

thats whats coming up on the odometer

Ahh the no bus thing on a Jeep means the computer is not getting a signal.Sometimes the crank position sensor, often a bad connection at rear of instrument cluster.The connection seems to be the most common problem with a no bus

ok thank you for now i will look at it, but can i ask more questions tomorrow or is it gonna cost me again,i have to go to bed i am a truck driver and have to be up early. i just want to know if i can ask more questions if need be. thank you

Just stay on this link...I will be on and off several times during the day

HI BRUCE, WILL A 1998 JEEP WRANGLER IS THE SAME AS A 2000? IS THE DASH WIRING LOOM THE SAME? I TRIED YOUR OTHER SUGGESTION AND IT DIDNT HELP THE MATTER. BUT THANK YOU AND WILL WAIT FOR YOUR REPLY.

My interchang books do not go that new.Got a friendly Autowrecker there? They will know.

I ALREADY HAD IT TOWED AND THEY BROUGHT IT BACK CAUSE THEY COULDNT FIX IT THATS WHY WE CONTACTED YOU AND PAID THE 25.00 CAUSE YOUR SITE HAD A 99% FIX RATE. SO NOW WHAT? DO WE GET OUR MONEY BACK LIKE THE AD SAID CAUSE YOU COULDNT FIX THE PROBLEM?

HELLO BRUCE, I AM STILL WAITING ON A REPLY ABOUT THE REFUND YOUR AD SAID. THAT IF YOU COULDNT SOLVE IT, AND YOU HAD A 99% RATE ON FIXING IT THAT I WOULD BE REFUNDED IF NOT SATISFIED. IT IS STILL BROKE AND ALL THE WIRING LOOKS GOOD. AND WHAT YOU SUGGESTED ABOUT THE CENSORS DIDNT WORK, CAUSE THEY WERE ALREADY REPLACED. SO IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS THAT WOULD BE GREAT. I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING, NEW CLUSTER DASH, NEW COMPUTER, CENSORS AND A FEW MORE. THANK YOU PLEASE RESPOND ABOUT THE REFUND. CHARLES

Actually I am only the tech here or one half of the system.You have to contact All Parts head office (they have a website)
The web owner gets 1/2 the tech gets 1/2.
I have trying to get ahold of them awhile
now as their total owing me is over $1700.(It's been awhile since they paid me lol!)

WELL IM SO SORRY TO HEAR THAT BUT STILL ITS FALSE ADVERTISEMENT ON THEIR PART. WHAT IS THEIR WEBSITE SO I CAN E-MAIL THEM ABOUT OUR REFUND. OR IM GONNA CONTACT THE BETTER BUSINESS. I BELIEVE IN HONESTY AND INTEGRITY.

Get that sorted out yet?
Bruce [redacted]
[redacted]

NO I BOUGHT A NEW COMPUTER AND NEW WIRING AND IT STILL WONT WORK. DO U HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT ELSE WE CAN TRY. SORRY I HAVENT GOTTEN BACK TO U I BROKE MY LEFT FOOT 3 TIMES IN A MATTER OF 6 WEEKS. THANK YOU FOR REPLYING CHARLES

Unfortunatly, the only other recourse is to test each wire and sensor...very time consuming.
And stop kicking the Jeep, you will break your foot (LOL)

BRUCE, I DID ALL THE SUGGESTIONS. AND ALL THE SENSORS ARE BRAND NEW. THERE ARE NO USED PARTS ON THE JEEP. AND STILL NOTHING WORKS. ANY MORE SUGGESTIONS? THANK YOU FOR REPLYING. WILL WAIT FOR NEW SUGGESTIONS. OH YEA WE HAD A DIAGRAM PRINTED OUT OF THE JEEPS MOTOR AND WENT THROUGH PIECE BY PIECE OF WHAT IT COULD OF BEEN. HAVE U EVER HEARD OF SUCH CRAP. IM GOING CHEVY LOL. IM JUDY, CHARLES WIFE. AND I HAVE THE BROKEN TOE X 3 HAHAHA.

Ok Judy, stop kicking da Jeep!
I have seen an unusual problem
with some Jeeps. Sometimes body
flex can cause the pins at the back
of the instrument cluster...hmmm
(I drive a Chebby 1 Ton Dually 4X4 than can pull stumps <454 cid> and needs no fixin!)

THATS ALL BEEN CHANGED. AND THE BODY ISNT FLEXING, IT HASNT MOVED. HOW LONG AM I GONNA HAVE TO KEEP ASKING FOR HELP CAUSE YOUR ADD SAID 99% FIXABLE? SORRY WE R AT THE ENDS OF OUR ROPES HERE. I AM WITHOUT A CAR NOW. I DRIVE A CHEVY ALSO.

1999 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always 

the parking lights are always on in accessory position or vehicle is running(not a Canadian model-no daytime running lights) pulled the fuse & the lights stay on?!?!...

By saying running lamps, I take it you mean your turn signal/parklamp is at question here. When you pull the fuse, do the turn signals continue to fuction? The only two things that come to mind is a faulty headlight switch or a clock spring/turn signal switch.
Good Luck,
Paul

1999 Jeep Wrangler Engine Chugging When driving When warm 

4.0L 5 speed Manual, vehicle starts chugging/bucking very bad, will stop if clutch is depressed. Doesn't appear to have any pattern. Not throwing any codes have reveiewed with Actron 9145 code reader. Any thoughts?

At what speeds does the chugging take place, is it only (or more pronounced) upon acceleration?

It typically happens during medium to hard acceleration, no specific speed... I've had it do it, when pulling out of a parking spot in 1st gear, virtually every gear, but typically when you are accelerating. This problem has gotten even worse in the last 24 hours. No Environment/CLIMATE changes.

Fuel pump has been replaced etc.

Have you replaced the plug wires and plugs? Inspected the coil for cracks or carbon tracking?

yes. Going to disconnect battery cable tonight, leave disconnected in an attempt to reset the computer... I figure it's a free attempt...

I've done so much research today, it just seems like there is nothing concrete with this problem.....

What else would you recommend to try to isolate problem...??

Try disconnecting the EGR valve and see if the problem remains. Wait and see if you fail after the computer reset, so we don't get a false pos/neg.

Let me know, hopefully we can find the problem.

Doug, I forgot to disconnect the battery last night to reset computer... I want to be clear on this, should we reset computer 1st or try disconnecting EGR valve?

Regardless, not real clear on what ur suggesting with the EGR valve? Leave it disconnected? Sorry, just little fuzzy.. plus it's morning... not enough coffee....

Since we didn't reset computer, I'm gonna wait for your specific instructions...

On the first paragraph, it makes no difference but I'd try the EGR first.

On the EGR, yes leave it disconnected while you test drive. This will cause the check engine light to come on and set a fault code, so don't be alarmed. If this doesn't help subsequently disconnecting the battery will turn off the check engine light.

I think most vehicles will reset the computer if you disconnect the negative battery cable for about five minutes. With the cable still disconnected press the brake pedal down for 20 seconds- this will drain any stored electricity from the system.

BTW- the five minutes is usually overkill.

1999 Jeep Wrangler Engine Stalling When driving 

Hi, I have a 99 TJ with 75,000 miles. What I am getting is a full loss of engine power after I start to drive. If I have run it for an hour and park for 5 min. it will do it. If it has sat for a week it will do it. I replaced the wires, plugs, cap and roter. It does not feel like a fuel problem. When it starts to act up, I can tromp the gas or downshift, and bring it back to life. I love my Jeep. Please help!

It sounds like a sensor out of range if you have full power on hard acceleration. Have the computer codes read at Autozone to see if the computer has logged a fault code for a sensor.

1999 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups Malfunction When driving Always

I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 L I-6. Just recently I noticed when I'm idling or at a lower RPM my oil pressure is fine 40-60, but when I accelerate or am driving at a constant higher RPM my oil pressure guage will spike and remain slightly under 80. Is it my sender unit or should I be thinking PRV.

It is most likely the sending unit itself or interference with the sending unit. Check for an oil leak at the sender.

1999 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System Slipping When accelerating When warm 

The Wrangler began slipping badly on a long trip...dealership replaced the fuel pump but the slipping has continued. The engine becomes non-responsive to the accelerator and eventually stalls out. We've replaced plugs, plug wires, air filter, oil filter, etc. Nothing comes up on the computer analysis. It runs fine until I get up to about 65 or so and then the slipping starts and just gets worse and worse until the Jeep is disabled. After sitting for a few minutes, it will drive fine until the next episode.

Hello, Is the Dealership that replaced the fuel pump a local one? Did they know the road test conditions needed to duplicate the complaint?

You have a strong case for recourse with that Dealership.

Was the fuel filter replaced? (in-line and in-tank)

I would road test with a fuel gauge connected to the engine and the gauge taped to the windshield to watch pressure as the condition develops. I'd also have a diagnostic scanner connected to monitor sensor feedback parameters to see what signal is going away.

When the Jeep stalls, if fuel pressure is still normal, check for spark.

How would you like to proceed?

Roger

Roger, the dealership is not local but they have remained in contact. A local mechanic checked the fuel pressure via gauge and everything checked out.

Can your local mechanic duplicate the complaint? When the condition is present and it won't start after a stall have you checked for spark?

With a diagnostic scanner connected to the vehicle do you have a crankshaft sensor signal?

Roger

Im sorry it cranks immediately after every stall...I took it to a local dealership tonight and gave them the history. They will contact the other dealership and basically said the same thing you did. Thank you much!

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

If you prefer to continue, please advise.

Thank you!

Roger

1999 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

My '99 Wrangler Sport bogs down in low gears (2nd and 3rd primarily) especially when the gas get below about a half tank. If I hold the gas pedal at exactly the same spot when it starts to stall, after a few seconds it will suddenly accelerate again. I noticed this problem after I replaced the exhaust manifold with a dynomax header. Since noticing the problem I have replaced the TPS, the O2 sensor at the head pipe, ran fuel cleaner and had Jiffy Lube perform fuel injection cleaning. I waited way too long to remove the cracked manifold, is it possible something in the exhaust system could have been damaged, or could it be the fuel filter?

The fuel filter is possible, but more notably check the fuel pressure with a gauge.

Do you get a check engine light at any time while the engine is running?

Thank you for the response, I will check my fuel pressure this afternoon. The check engine light never comes on during operation.

The fuel pressure at idle was 48 psi, right in the middle of the range, should I also test it while pressing the gas, or is that enough to say it is probably not the fuel filter?

What you really need to see is if the fuel pressure holds while the problem is present.

1999 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

I have a six-cylinder engine. It starts without a problem, but after running for about three seconds, it just dies. It starts again without any problem, runs for a few seconds, then dies. Pressing on the gas pedal has no effect. Someone suggested the fuel pump relay - your thoughts?

Hi, You should be able to determine if the fuel pump relay quits. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and watch for a pressure drop.

What about oil pressure? Does it register as good? Some vehicles cut the fuel if oil pressure is not detected right after start up.

Roger

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, so I was hoping there was another way to check the relay. I didn't even look at the oil pressure, so I will take a look at it in the morning and see what it says. Thanks for your quick response.

Will a engine controls wiring diagram benefit you? It will show you how the fuel pump and auto-shutdown relays are powered and the ground circuits. Much more.

A fuel pressure gauge is not big money. Take a look in the automotive dept at Wal-Mart, or see if a auto parts store will loan/rent one to you.

I'll need your email address or a fax number to send wiring diagram sheets to you.

Roger

Sure, a wiring diagram would be helpful. If you have one to email, my address is [redacted] . I will go to Walmart today and price the pressure gauges, and I'm about to go check my oil pressure.

I sent three pages that make up the engine controls circuits.

Happy shopping,

Roger

Thanks for the diagrams. Update: I just tried to start the Jeep so I could take a look at the oil pressure, and it started and ran fine with no problems. Yesterday, I tried to start it five times and it refused to run. Could that be a sign that it is the fuel pump relay going out after all? Oil pressure was fine.

Yes, It could be that the relay is failing. A replacement should be affordable and you might consider trying one. No promises.

Roger

Thank you very much for all of your help. I'm going to try replacing the relay and go from there.

Update me when you can.

Roger

1998 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens sometimes No pattern

Check engine light is intermittent, with no repeatable symptions. Performance appears to be normal. Local AutoZone guys can't seem to pull a trouble code when the light is on (??) Also, the dash guages work intermittently (ie.. will drop to zero, then come back). I'm thinking a bad ground???

Close,

The problem is caused by corrosion on the electrical connectors at the back of the instrument cluster.
Find a friendly dodge dealer and get a copy of (technical service bulletin)

TSB # 08-20-98A (Oct 98), Instrument Panel - Erratic Operation.
It's necessary to have adequate instructions when working on modern vehicles. This TSB contains detailed instructions to repair the cluster.
Tough call on the autozone scantool, it may not be compatible with your jeep. I would repair the cluster and see if the check engine problem disappears.

AutoZone guys tried it again yesterday. Trouble codes 132, 135, and 463 showed up this time, although they could not tell me what these codes are.

I'll see if the local jeep dealer is willing to print a copy of the bulletin. If they aren't, any ideas on how to get one?

PO132 and
PO135
can both be set by the O2 sensors heater circuit. Inspect the wires and connectors to the O2 sensor, especially where they may have melted or rubbed through.

PO463 Fuel level sender volts to high.

Repair the dash and see if it goes away.

If you bought the jeep from the dealer and can find your salesman he should assist you with the tsb (assuming he likes repeat customers). This is especially effective if you ask for help in the presense of other customers. Or sometimes it's effective to go through the service manager (sometimes it's against the rules for the mechanics to give tsb's, but the service manager makes and can make exceptions to the rules).

You can also buy the tsb online. Alldata.com, a company who provides information services for garages, sells a DIYer version which covers one car. It includes repair instructions, specifications, trouble code definitions and diagnosis, full text TSB's, etc.

Until last week there was a site that is part of the public library system that offered free TSBs. It remains offline at this time, should it come back on the address is-

http://e-toolbox.com/ads

1998 Jeep Wrangler Engine Hesitating Happens sometimes No pattern

The jeep will hesitate and buck jump shortly after start-up. It will only last about 2 minutes. It will do this each time upon initial start-up. It seems like it goes into fail safe mode and do nothing but idle for 2-3 minutes and then it runs and performs fine after it clears up. I have replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, air cleaner - nothing seems to fix it. I have had it to several shops - no one can find/fix the problem. It has acted up while being on the computer at shop and no codes come up? Would appreciate any suggestions.

i would try to look in the computer and see the trouble shooting codes. then after that if there isnt any just clear the computer. also try the fuel sender, that could be the problem.

No codes show up when jeep is placed on computer. Is the fuel sender a replacement part? Where is it located on the jeep?

I've actually tried to locate a fuel sending unit but it looks like there is not one on a 1998 Jeep Wrangler?

there is a sender in every car, it is just in the fuel tank. it is either outside of the tank or inside, and yours is on the inside.

you might just have to replace the whole fuel tank unless you can get the sending unit out of the tank.

it actually could be many different things with the fuel like, the fuel pump, injectors, the fuel filter. so you might want to look at those things too. if the fuel filter is an inline fuel filer then you can replace it yourself, because it is easy. but everything else is a different story.

The Coolant Temp Sensor is the most common problem here and difficult to isolate because once it gets to temp it functions beautifully.The temp sensor is located on the front of the motor on the 4.0L near the water pump outlet.Let me know which engine you have.The only other thing is just a little TLC in the form an intake and injector service.The service, when performed correctly,cleans all the carbon and fuel/dirt build up off of the intake walls where fuel/air ratio mix takes place,the vavles,the throttle bore and idle air port , EGR passageway and pintle and injector pitots to restore injector spray patterns.You will be amazed at the restored performance if this service is performed correctly.Call around for the best price.Take a look into the throttle body/bore behind the throttle plate to see what I'm talking about.That thick gummy substance is detremental to Fuel/air mix,injectors ability to atomize the fuel properly,and the Idle air control circuit.Let me know how you make out with this. This service is just good PM anyway.Should be performed at least every 60,000 miles to keep the system in tip top shape.If you are allowed to watch them perform the service you can have them hold a white shop towell at the exhaust so you can see all the black crap that is removed from the concentrated cleaning agents.The injector cleaners you add to your tank take forever to work if they do anything at all.The service bombards the intake and injectors directly with the concentrated cleaning agents.This will alleviate the problem of atomized fuel sticking to the build up on the intake on a cold engine instead of entering the combustion chamber where it belongs.Good Luck with this.it should take care of the problem if the CTS is OK.

Which engine do you have?

Does the problem only appear with a warm or a cold engine? Or it doesn't matter? This makes a difference.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System Won't Start  When warm 

this problem has a long history with my own mechanic who cannot figure this problem out. The following is a list of things he has replaced in order:

1. Oxygen sensor
2. Catalitic Converter
3. Fuel Pump
4. Crankcase Sensor
5. Fuel Pump Relay/Main Relay

The problem started months ago with popping and sputtering while driving long distances. It would nearly die and I would have to coast on the shoulder and pump the throttle for several minutes until it proceeded normally.

Now, it seems after the fuel pump has been replaced...my fuel gauge is inconsistant and, more importantly, now it won't always start. It seems to not want to start after I have driven it several miles (about 25miles)....do you think my mechanic gave me a defective fuel pump? or screwed up putting it in? or is there something else that is completely different?

here is something new: after traveling from my home to 25 miles away. I stop the jeep for about 5 minutes and turned engine off. When I tried to start it, it sputtered and popped and backfired, etc for about 2 minutes while I held the throttle down all the way....then, just like a flip of a switch, it reved right up....so, i drove it back to my house 25 miles away, stopped the engine. waited a few minutes, tried to start it back up again and it wouldn't start at all. I attached my pressure gauge to the injector line and i had no pressure at all as I was trying to start it. Then I waited about an hour. Tried to give it a crank. At first, the pressure gauge read ZERO, then after the second try...the pressure gauge jumped quickly up to abou 46psi and it started right up, no problem....i'm at my wits end about this problem and my mechanic seems to be clueless.

Sounds like a fuel supply problem. You will need to duplicate the problem and determine if the fuel pump is getting 12V. If it has 12V and you have no fuel pressure, then it is a pump problem. If you do not have 12V, then you have an electrical problem, most likely being the fuel pump, ASD relay or ignition switch.

You will need to do your testing when the Jeep is not starting properly...when the problem is occurring.

thank you for your response. I suspect it is the NEW fuel pump and that it is defective. I'm having my mechanic switch it out this week. Good point to see if it is actually getting the 12volts or not. I have also allready replaced the relay, so I doubt that it is the problem. Thanks again.

david

Make sure about the voltage, just changing parts makes no one happy.
Dale

1998 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System  When starting When cold

the jeep keeps loseing power and feels like it is going to stall after a couple of minutes the problem goes away there is also a fishy smell

That sounds like the engine is getting excess fuel. If the check engine light is not on, look for a skewed coolant temperature sensor, or intake air temperature sensor. Could also be a bad MAP sensor.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

My engine is idling rough when started cold, and misses and jumps when put in gear. If allowed to warm up first it runs fine. It has just started doing this recently, ran fine cold before.

When was the last tune-up, with new spark plugs, wires, etc and fuel filter? Always start with a tune-up if overdue.

Any check engine light while the engine is running?

Will it run fine if you raise the RPM's slightly by pushing on the gas pedal?

Try leaving the key on for five seconds before starting. Let me know if this makes any difference.

Last tune up was last year, around sept. I think. I just changed the plugs and wires yesterday to see if that would help. It didn't. Engine does smooth out when I rev it up, but the problem returns as soon as it idles down again. I have to play with the gas and the clutch to keep it from jumping until the engine warms up to normal operating temp, at which time it runs like a champ. I will try your suggestion with the key in the morning and let you know.

Just tried waiting 5 sec's and it made no difference.

Okay, start by cleaning the throttle body and its blade (both side of the blade. Also remove the idle speed motor (AIS) and clean its pintle and the passageway back into the throttle body. Use throttle body cleaner and a brush. This assumes no check engine light while the engine is running.

The only time the check engine light came on was a very cold morning a week ago. It did not come back on when I started the engine the next time. I suppose we can leave this discussion open until I get that stuff done?

Yes, reply back when you try what I've suggested so far.

I did as you suggested, no luck, it's still doing the same thing.

Next you will need to check the temperature sensors (coolant and intake air temp). These sensors give coolant and intake air temperature to the computer. The computer (PCM) will richen the fuel mixture when the engine is cold (a cold engine requires more fuel to run properly). If these sensors are falsely telling the computer the engine is warm you won't get the rich fuel mixture needed.

You should also call the dealer service department and see if there are any 'flash' updates for this problem. A flash update becomes available when the manufacturer recognizes oncorrect parameters in the PCM. These often result in lean fuel mixture problems (they try to make them as lean as possible for government standards).

Give me an update.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline   

Q.we fitted a new hydraulic slave and master cyl but the clutch was still heavy so replaced it with a new clutch plate ,had the pressure plate reconditioned refaced the flywheel and replaced the release brg I must say that the clutch worked well before this was done but heavy.
We removed the clutch again and sent it to the reconditioners to be checked,all settings were bang on,refitted it and put a 3 mill washer under clutch piviot but this didnt do much to improve. The reason we didnt fit a new pressure plate was because it was $1000 plus ex Singapore.regards Murray Fell
NewZealand

I don't know what shipping costs are, but you should be able to find a pressure plate well under $1000. If you want me to find one for you, simply give your engine size.

Is the clutch slipping now or not disengaging?

Hi its not the clutch that we need but a solution too the problem of engaging gear since we fitted the clutch.
regards Murray.

Okay, what is the problem-- Does the clutch slip OR is it difficult to shift into gear (especially 1st and reverse gears)?

yes first and reverse are the problems

Some aftermarket clutch parts are simply to thick and can cause this problem. The other concern is if you still have air in the hydraulic clutch system. The air can be very difficult to remove. With the cap off the clutch master cylinder, have someone slowly plunge the slave cylinder. This will force fluid back through the master cylinder. Is there any air? If there is you are removing it.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

4.0 Liter with AC car making a rattling noise where the catalytic converter is and it is idling rough. when it is driven it seems to run ok and shift alright. If idling and it is put in gear with no moving the noise gets deeper. can this be the Cat converter or something causing back pressure Also at higher speeds when you accelerate it does not respond immediatley

You may have several problems. For the exhaust rattle begin by inspecting the heat shield to see if it may be loose. Also inspect the exhaust hangers-- a problem here can cause the rattle. If all this checks okay, (Engine Cold), slap the catalytic converter to see if you can hear the rattle (the material inside may broken and rattling in certain conditions).

For the driveability complaint, does the check engine light come on at anytime while the engine is running? If it does visit AutoZone or Advance Auto and they'll check the trouble codes free of charge. Additionaly look at the catalytic converter (after a drive)(engine idling) in darkness to see if it's glowing at all.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1998 Wrangler with 4.0L engine. During warmup the engine bucks and backfires at mid-throttle. Idle is OK (usually), and full throttle is OK. When it starts acting up I shift to a high gear and floorboard it. Startup is fine.

Hello, Please check to see if all of the clamps on the air inlet duct are tight and no holes/splits exist in the air tube.

Unmetered air would cause a lean mixture backfire. With all clamps tight the entire air mass will be measured by the sensors (MAF) and fuel mix will be correct.

Any help?,

Roger

Thanks for the fast response. I'll check for that. Is there something in that air path that is related to warmup or at least temperature? The Jeep started showing the problem last fall, but it was not usually a problem all winter. When the weather warmed up the problem came back. When the problem first occurs each day the engine will not fire at all until I floor the pedal or take my foot off completly.

I'm still thinking about causes to consider.

One thing Chrysler states concern for poor driveability is winter fuel vs. summer fuel blend/quality comparrisons. They issued a bulletin about using the correct grade fuel (avoid higher octane) and switch brands to find the best performer.

That mid-range throttle condition also could be a throttle position sensor. (If the sweep voltage is not a clean signal throughout throttle range.)

Do you get a check engine light? Are ground connections clean and tight? Have you inspected the connector to the computer for signs of corrosion, etc?

Roger

Roger,
It is raining now so I haven't even checked the air ducting yet. I thought it was electrical but after you mentioned lean backfire I looked that up and now I am convinced that I have lean backfire.
The funny thing is that it only happens during warm up. There is apparently a warm-up regulator on this jeep. Maybe that is it? How do I check it?

I'm not familiar with a warm-up regulator.

However, during warm-up of the engine the computer operates the engine in open loop mode.

This means the computer uses a set of pre-programmed values in lieu of actual sensor values to run the engine. The sensors are "ignored" if that makes sense.

When the engine warms up the computer switches to closed loop operation mode. Now the sensors are taken at their real time value inputs (feedback) and corrections are continually made to maintain engine performance that meets driver demand.

A coolant temp sensor can provide an incorrect value as can an inlet air temp sensor that may screw with the computer's decisions for fuel mixture even during warm-up.

The Jeep is new enough to have OBD II diagnostics technology. A scanner (not a code reader) would be helpful in zeroing in on what the computer is being told by the sensors. Comparisons made to known good values for the sensors tells a technician what to consider in mapping a repair process.

Roger

Roger,

This sounds like a job for the dealer or a shop with proper equipment. I'll take it in.

Thank you for your help.

All right. To close the question please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button and All Parts will pay me.

I thank you,

Roger

Roger,
I can't find the button

Thank you, I'll write to the site administrator and ask for help.

Thanks again,

Roger

1998 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

When I start my jeep for the first 8 or so minutes when pressing the gas the is no much acceleration, only when the gas pedal is floored. Also in the first couple of minutes if at a stop light the idle drops and gains almost like the engine wants to stall but dosent.... after the 8 min or so it drives fine and no more acceleration problems

You will want to check some of your fuel air system components.
It is really hard to pinpoint a bad part if it is not caught in a non working situation.
Either it gets worse and goes bad or you are just guessing and spending more money on parts and replacing things you may not need.
Do you have a pcm scanner?, you can have your pcm scanned for stored codes at a autozone free of charge if you do not own one.
They will goive you the numbers to define the code that a part has gone or is going out. At this point it sounds like you AIC
Air intake control module by the specific symptoms but these symps also relate to other components in the system and the PCM will normally store a problem even if the check engine light has gone off.
I hope this helps

I appreciate the quick response... my check enigine light hasnt gone off yet so its more guess work than anything right now....

Well acually if the check engine light is on then the ball is in your court.
The reason I said that was because you did not mention the check engine light in your post.
That would mean that your ECM is holding onto the code, it is stored and you need to know what it is in order to attempt to fix the problem, When it cold be this easy you do not want guesswork to come in.
It can be expensive and time consuming

1998 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

jeep acts like battery is dead, I would jump start it and it fires right up. go to take off and every thing cuts off engine, lights,radio,it just dies. then without touching anything everything just comes back on and the engine fires right up. when I jump start it the volts read normal.this has happened several times. I have disconnected and cleaned wires to battery,starter,alternator,and fuses.all seems ok

Note- USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS!! You need to try a wiggle test to see if you can locate the problem. What you do is pull/wiggle/tug on wiring trying to find the area that is creating this problem. Do this under hood and under dash near the ignition switch (especially if this only happens to components that run on the ignition switch, such as if the headlights stay ON). Also wiggle the key switch to see if this will recreate the problem. Be sure to check around any wiring that could be effected when the shifting lever is moved and the normal flex of the engine when torque is distributed from the transmission engaging. Let me know what you find and please remember to use caution.

well tugged and pulled on every wire but could not recreate the problem. and yes I still have all my fingers.it will do this at least once a week then run fine other 6 days. disconnected positive terminal on battery to test alternator. runs fine. when it happens it cuts engine and all electric.

Headlights too? If not I'd be looking at the igniton switch. Next check wiring to fuse box.

If you do lose the headlights the problem is most likely the battery cables or ground points, even if this look good (acid can bleed down).

Never disconnect the battery cable with the engine running on modern vehicles. With a working alternator a voltage spike can occur that can fry sensitive electronics (IE- computer). The spark created can also cause an explosion, espcially true when the battery is charging.

I disconnected wiring and cleaned contacts, wire looks fine,I'm gonna check grounds, I'm gonna go ahead and replace battery cables. thank-you for your help with get back later.

If you lose power to everything the problem should be in the cables. There is a remote chance something is shorting, but I'd expect a blown fuse or something smoking/smelling.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

My son has a 1998 Jeep Wrangler, it was running rough so he changed the oil and filter, put new spark plugs in and now the car won't accelerate over 30 mph?

First the oil change, did not affect the operation.
Have him recheck the spark plug gap and the spark plug wire orientation.Mixing up two plug wires can cause the low power operation,
Also test the spark plug wires and ensure no vacuum hoses came undone,

1998 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

When my 1998 Jeep Wrangler is cold, it misses or hesitates for a few seconds when first accelerating. Then runs fine for the rest of the day. Does not do this when it is warmed up. After it sits a few hours, does the same thing again

First ensure that the coolant level is full. Then the best way to diagnose is to check for 'codes' (a free service at many parts stores) If I were to guess, I would say it is the coolant temp. sensor that tells the computer it is cold.

i live in south georgia and its still 70 degrees at night. it does it when its 80 degrees during the day after it sits for a few hours

I verified the engine coolant level is full

try sending a reply. hopefully it is not being blocked as "spam" e-mail

Nhe 'nominal' operating temp of an engine 1s between 170-210 degrees. If the engine temp is below that, the sensor tells the computer to richen the air/fuel micture to a hogher percentage to ensure easy start and warm up.
So yes, 70-80 degrees is colder than the engine operating temp. so it requires the sensor to work. What is happening (probably) is the sensor is not working. Thus the start and warm up sequence is getting an air/fuel ratio which is optimum for running not starting.The sensor is relatively cheap and easy to replace.I am assuming you have been doing regular tune ups also...plugs filters etc...

yes i have changed the plugs, wires, cap & rotor. what exactly is the sensor called? can i pick it up at an autoparts store?

Auto parts store should have it, and they can probably do scan (Autozone etc) Sensor the size of your small finger is caled the Coolant Temperature Sensor (or CTS) NOT to be confused with sensor that turns on fan or guage.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

My jeep starts fine but will not stay on when idle. I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key. If I gas it, it will have a split second delay then it responds. It runs great but always dies when I release the gas and let it idle. My batter always seems to be low in charge also. I just replaced it a month ago. When running, the Alternator seems to be working fine since the gauge displays 12-14 volts. I do not know if these two issues are relayed. Please help

Hi, Check for a vacuum leak. It could be a vacuum hose has split where connected, has a hole in it, has collapsed, or is now disconnected.

Have you checked for parasitic drain on the battery? Do you have a multi-meter?

Roger

1998 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

1998 jeep wrangler was in accident passenger side air bag went off jeep will fire on start fluid but will not stay running can hear fuel pump run with key on is there something in=m overlooking because of accident fuel shut off switch ??? jeep was running prior to accindent a ok has full fuel tank i changed fuel relay with another relay no results

Check for Key On power to one side of the fuel injectors. Use a known good ground for the ground side of the volt meter. If you are missing power check fuses or for wiring damage. Give me an udpate.

I CHECKED YOUR SUGGESTION NO RESULTS DECIDED TO PROCEED SINCE ENGINE RAN ON START ER FULID CHECCKED FUEL PRESURE WAS BELOW NORMAL SO DROPED TANK FOUND PUMP HAD BROKEN OUTLET NIPPLE OFF IN IMPACT I GUESS SO IT FUEL PUMP TIME BUT THANKS FOR IMPUT

Okay, good. For future reference your Jeep has an autoshutdown relay but no intertia/ imapact switch.

1998 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

MY 1998 Wrangler 4.0. The side markers and the front parking lights don't work. The front parking lights work with the blinkers and hazards on. The rear lights are ok and all the fuses are good. I need some help.

You will require a test light or meter to test the headlight switch.Or you could change it assuming the fuses and the bulbs are good.Some bulbs are the dual filimant type and just part of the bulb may be non functioning.

All the fuses are good. I did have a new radio installed last Saturday. The Haynes manual shows the front parking lights black/yellow wire that runs through a connector that the radio does too It's a pain

Sounds like the radio install might have disconnected a wire.Although wiring can be a pain, treat it like a roadmap, and with patience it can be simple.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

Hi, I have a 4.0L wrangler sport. It ran hot about a week ago, and had steam coming out near the top lefthand side (as you face the jeep). Thinking it was the waterpump gasket leaking, I had the waterpump replaced, along with the thermostat, thermostat housing. A couple of days after the work was done, the same thing happened again, the car overheated and steam was spewing from near the same place. What do you think is the problem?

What you should do is find a local Autozone store that has the Loan a Tool Program (most do). What you need is the tool to pressurize the cooling system. Pump up pressure with the tool to find the leak. It seems coolant is leaking out which causes the engine to overheat. I am also assuming the coolant/steam is coming from the engine and the radiator cap or overflow hose.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

the jeep bogs down really bad. i have replace plugs, wires, cap, rotar, cat, 02 sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor. it seems to be loading up and jumps. during this the rpms fly down. any help?

You said you replaced the cat. converter, make sure there is not a restriction elsewhere in the exhaust if you haven't already.

Check fuel pressure to see if it is within specs. Also ohm the fuel injectors individually to see if the readings are consistant.

Any check engine light? If there is visit Advance Auto or Autozone and have the codes checked- free. Let me know which alphanumeric codes they find. BTW- if the light is on this should be the first step in diagnostics.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

After driving 10-15 minutes, at highway speed engine will "cough," lose power for a second, tachometer needle flutters up and down, then after a longer time, will actually lose power steadily, down shifting helps at first, then dies all the way down to slow first gear speed and when try to upshift to second, engine may die. happens repeatedly once starts

First thing to check is fuel delivery.Possible could be plugged filter.
If filter changed, and still persists, have the catalytic converter tested for blockage.
The symptoms sound more like the latter.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

I have either a fuel or electrical issue. My 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L seems to fire the plugs in an oscillating way, maybe 2-3 secs full fire, 2-3 secs dead. Thought heat related but started slow and getting worse. Really bad power/performance under load driving. Wondering if is poor fuel pressure, blockage in a fuel filter, or maybe a crank sensor. After plenty of reading so far have no indication an O2 will cause this symptom. Codes are 12 and 21, according to my research 12 is battery to PCM power removed within last fifty starts, 21 is O2 sensor, Autozones reader says front O2 sensor. No smoke out of exhaust, good exhaust blow, good air intake suction.

I suppose this isnt a fast responding tech support. In any event, I will be offline after an hour or so. If there is a chance I will get any communication before then would be appreciated, otherwise I suppose I'll look for one tommorrow.

Loss of fuel pressure, whether from a clogged filter or weak fuel pump, will cause very poor performance under load/acceleration. A fuel pressure gauge is the only accurate way to determine if this is the cause.

Don't overlook the possibility of a plugging catalytic converter, as it will give the same symptoms. You could temporarily remove the front 02 sensor for test purposes. If a plugging converter is the problem, you will notice an immediate improvement in power (no doubt about it).

You are not getting any misfire codes, but still should check the coil/plug wires. In darkness have someone rev the engine, you'll see arcing if there is a problem here. Note- Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

Crank sensors are not usually intermittent, in the sense of oscillating as you are experiencing. Note- they can be intermittent, but this usually involves a cool down or warm up period (fail at certain temps).

Is the oscillating condition constant?

The only time an O2 woild cause this great of a running problem is when it is shorting internally or the wiring to the sensor is shorting (rubbed through). Inspect the wiring and temporarily unplug the sensor, probably no change...

Do you know which alphanumeric code Autozone found, IE P0171, etc. There are several O2 codes, with varying meanings. One may be for a lean condition. The sensor could be slow and falsely report a lean condition, or the sensor could be telling the truth-- Not enough fuel (fuel pressure, plugged injectors, faulty input sensor for engine load).

Thanks for your response. It does definitely oscillate (at idle). This can be described as full fire then mostly no fire, in 2-5 second intervals, at idle. When under load/driving conditions it is hard to tell, mostly bogs down unless I floor it, but if I floor it, it goes without hesitation, (tough to do continuously, hard to shift, people might get angry, etc.). That issue is why I'm leaning towards a fuel issue, why would flooring it cause (seemingly) solid electrical/fuel system fire, as in what I would normally expect in performance? Also, I thought I indicated it seems to have strong exhaust output pressure (no smoke) and strong air intake suction. Weak exhaust output would lend me towards a clogged catalytic converter. I have changed the cap and rotor, need to pull the plugs and look at the build nup if any. I will do the fuel pressure test, and verify Autozones exact error code. I haven't found the fuel filter yet, can you help me with its location? You don't think a crank sensor would exhibit this type of symptom? Will you still be around to discuss this? If so most appreciated.

It is not typical for a crank sensor to fail in this manner, although still possible.

I don't see a fuel filter listed for this vehicle, maybe it only has an in-tank filter.

Flooring it and getting good strong acceleration is considered a good indication of adequate fuel pressure.

It is possible you have a sensor problem, that 'heals' at a different throttle position or engine load. The fuel system is electrically controlled- fuel injector pulse width for fuel supply.

Yes, I'll be around.

An interesting note.... I come home from work, and had to deal with the bad performance... so as it sits in the drive idling up and down... I pull the electrical plug on #1 injector and the whole things stops acting up, other than the miss from #1.. I then went and pulled all inject plugs, 2 or 3 times, got the same cylinder miss, came back to 1 3-4 times, after putting them back good idle. Weird to me, after that test havnt driven it, waiting on the fuel pressure guage, should have it tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Thanks for being here.

Do you have the specs for the fuel pressure on the fuel rail? 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L 15 gallon tank.

47-51 psi.

I replaced the fuel pump. I had 38 psi with the old one and have 38 psi with the new one. I don't get it. Any ideas? Also, after changing the pump, spark plugs (they really needed it, about 25 thousandths over gap) and wires, First test run was good, but this mornings went back to the same. So even with what I thought was good exhaust pressure, I pulled the O2 sensor the open the exhaust, and it runs better. So, why do I read 38 psi, and why a better run with the O2 out? Could I have a blockage in the fuel rail or the fuel line? I have no clue as to whether the pressure gauge I'm using is working right, other than a buddy of mine used it recently to check his pressure and it seemed to work for him. And I suppose too much time running with a bad O2 could have the catalytic converter plugged some.

Yes, several things can cause the converter to plug. If you have a vacuum gauge you can check to see if vacuum drops as the engine warms. This is an indication of the converter being partially plugged.

An infared heat gun can also be used, to check the temperature of the converter (it is not likely that you have one of these).

1997 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

The garage has just replaced the manifold with a "header" now I have "Check Engine" light on and when revs get to above 3000 the engine splutter?

Visit an Advance Auto or AutoZone and have them check the trouble codes (free service).

Let me know which alhanumeric trouble codes they find, eg- P0300, P0401, etc, and we'll continue.

You could start by doing a visual inpsection underhood to see if they left any vacuum hoses or wiring unplugged (or damaged).

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

im am having a problem with my jeep on start up and have narrowed it down to a fuel problem i have replaced all my injectors so am assuming that its a problem with the fuel pump when i went online to order a pump i went with a venom fuel pump when i took it to the jeep dealer to see if it was the right part before i droped my tank he said that it was not and that i needed the whole sending unit assembly on doing some more research online all of the fuel pumps listed on alot of different sites look exactly like the one that i got from venom is there a way for me to integrate the fuel pump into the sending unit or do i have to replace the entire thing the model number for the venom fuel pump is hp748-593 any help would be awesome cause the sending unit assembly is considerably more expensive than the fuel pump

Yes it is possible to integrate the pump.
I agree with you, replacing the whole unit is expensive and stupid!
A little fabrication is in order, and soldering the wires is preferred over crimping.Ensure that the pickup (inlet) is in same place. than that, a little creativeness, and its done!

can u give me any more details on what i have to do to integrate the pump is there any diagram out that i can use cause i am pretty comfortable that i can do it i would just like to know a little more about what i have to do before i try to take down the whole gas tank only to find out that i dont have the parts or tools that i need

no diagrams are available, the best way is to look at it.If you are uncomfortable with it you might want to aquire a dead pump/housing from a jeep dealer or an auto wrecker. Then you can play with it, even installing your new pump in it before you do the swap.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My running lights keep shorting out as soon as I turn on the lights. I have replace the fuses, several times. I have replaced the headlight switch and it all appears to have power ( according to test light). When I place a good fuse in the parking light slot, everything appears normal. I checked it at the switch and it seamed ok, again with test light. As soon as you turn on, fuse blows. All the blinkers, hazards and headlights work. Also the dash, panel, lights don't come on when you pull the lights on, but DO come on when the jeep is started. Please help. I have wasted two days trying to find the problem. It doesn't make since. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Hello, Finding a short can be daunting. Do you have a wiring diagram?

Has the vehicle had any body damage? A wiring harness may be pinched.

Do you have wiring in the area of the battery that may have damage due to the battery leaking on the harness?

Has any lamp lens retained water and rusted/shorted a lamp socket?

You might consider using the correct amp circuit breaker in place of the correct amp fuse while you troubleshoot this problem. It may save you a boat load of fuses.

Roger

Roger

NO, no body damage, no water in the lights. The battery isn't leaking any were. I'm thinking it has to be some where after leaving the headlight switch that it's shorting out. It lights did work, I just didn't notice when they stopped.

One of the things I try is to remove all the bulbs on the effected fused circuit. Then if when the switch is turned on the fuse blows it tells me wiring is the problem.

Wiring in the area of the headlight switch may be resting on a metal edge and rubbed through the insulation from vibration over time.

What series Wrangler is this one? Sport?

Roger

The Jeep is 97 wrangler. As I mention previously, all the bulbs do work. The blinkers work, the brake lights, the hazards, therefore it tells me that it's something else. It has to be in the wiring, I just don;t know where. I checked it from the fuse box to the switch and it has power but again as soon as I pull the knobs fuse is out.

I understood it is a Wrangler, but there are three series of them made.

Did you note that the stop, turn, and hazards all use an element seperate from the park/tail lights in the same bulb? The park lights can have a short that will not effect signals, hazards, or stop lights.

Roger

Yes my apologies, it is a TJ series. Is that the information you need? Yes I did notice that the stop, hazard and brake all have separate fuses. Do you still recommend that I pull all the bulbs and check the wiring as you mentioned? If so and I find that it is the wiring, then what? That's where I begin to scratch my head.

Does this Jeep have trailer wiring? If so,I wondered if this wiring could be damaged...

Roger

I did install a trailer hitch not to long ago. Along with that I put the wiring in as well. It was a wiring kit from Quadratec. It was a simple plug and play type wiring kit. Could there be something wrong with that?

Best way to tell is to unplug it and hook the wire connectors back to their original configuration.

Does the fuse blow again?

Roger

I unplugged the trailer wiring and plugged it back to the original....Still blows the fuse.

Do you have a digital multimeter? You can use an Ohm Meter to test for shorts....

Roger

Yes I borrowed one from a friend, but not real sure how to use it. I don't know what it should read. I used it today at the fuse point and it read 6.85

There can be no power in a circuit tested for ohms/continuity. Unplug the headlight switch from the vehicle's wiring harness.

Here is when the bulbs will have to be removed for testing. All consumer components on this circuit will have to be disconnected. When the headlight switch is turned on- power is designed to flow from Fuse #1 (20 amp) through the headlight switch down the Blk/Yel wire to each lamp through the bulb and to ground.

So, the bulbs have to come out or the circuit will have ground via the bulbs. We want to seperate the power from the ground circuits.

With the meter set to Ohms put one of the test leads in the Blk/Yel wire terminal of the disconnected headlight switch connector and the other test lead to a good ground on the body. You should not get a reading on the meter. If you do...the wire is shorted to ground somewhere. The meter is showing continuity to ground on a power wire that has no known electrical consumers on the circuit. (Note: The Blk/Yel wire also feeds the panel lights on the radio. It too should be disconnected from the circuit.)

Do you have a wiring diagram to guide you?

You'll need a way to seperate the front lamps from the rear lamps to know where to look for the short. There may be a connector you could unplug, or you might have to cut the Blk/Yel wire in a strategic location that can be spliced and soldered after you find the fault.

I have also pulled on the harnesses where I found access to see if that would effect the meter reading favorably.

The reading we want on the meter is "OL" meaning infinity.

Roger

Thanks, I will try some of these things. I do not have a wiring diagram to reference. DO you have any suggestion on were to get a copy of something?
Thanks again for your help

What is your email address, please? I'll send you the diagram I am looking at.

Roger

[redacted] . Thanks I'll work on it tomorrow

I'll send it now.

Roger

Thank you so much. Problem solved. It was the blk/yel wire that led to the radio. I did install a radio a while back and everything was working fine. Since I don't drive the jeep at night It has been some time since I realized it wasn't working. I had the ground wire from the radio using the blk/yel wire as the ground. Therefore every-time I turned on the light the wire was being grounded each time.
Now when I turn the jeep on the running light are always on. It must be something with the blk/yel wire to the radio. Do you know were to the radio that wire is supposed to go. It just shows...to radio. Any thoughts?

The Blk/Yel wire going to the radio would most likely be for illumination (panel lights).

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you and Merry Christmas!

Roger

1997 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Voltage regulator cuts off approx 20 sec after engine start. voltmeter drops to zero...engine will run ok, but (confirmed by DC clamp-on meter) runs off the battery...
Alternator is ok...(confirmed by turning on the ignition only...voltmeter will indicate battery voltage, then drops to zero after 20 sec (computer initialization & check routines?). Battery is ok (CCR is within spec)...2nd question, i can construct an external electronic voltage regulator, and isolate it from the system's computer...but will that affect the system's other controls?

The voltage regulator in the computer can fail just like one built on an alternator. You can make/install an external regulator, but the computer will be turning on the check engine light and setting a code. If you live in an area where safety inspection involves checking the OBD2 for codes, you will not be able to get it to pass.

hi...thanks for the quick reply, and a happy new year to you as well. the safety/OBDCII code that you mention is not a problem up here (manitoba, canada), and i also have the Auto-Tap software/interface, so i can reset the error msg, should i need to.
ok, i can build the regulator, and to heck with the computer's complaints...then again, wouldn't tying my regulator's output (diode isolated, perhaps) back to the computer's sense line fool it into thinking all is ok?

The computer grounds and ungrounds the alternator field wiring to control the alternator. The computer senses the voltage on the circuit between the internal regulator and the alternator. It should read approx 12V when ungrounded and 0v when grounded. Your external regulator will ground and unground the field circuit in the same way. BUT the computer will not like it, because the duty cycle/ground switching will be at a different rate. If the computer is still functioning, it will set an alternator code even if wired in.

Keep it disconnected! or replace the computer. Happy New Year...Don't lick a cold wrench!

hi...
lick a cold wrench?...did that once on my house rainpipe (i wuz 12)...don't worry..won't happen again...oh well...
the regulator system you are describing sounds like a voltage shunt regulator...the regulators i made for my renault R17, and, later, my '82 pontiac j2000, was a series-pass regulator...now, i can build a shunt regulator, no problem...please advise...p.s. thanks for replying on new year's...happy new year, and another merry christmas, (i get another christmas, since (i'm second generation ukrainian-canadian))...

tom

Tom,
I have not built regulators, I only diagnose and install. From the diagnostic point of view, do you have 12V (with the engine running) on the dark green/orange wire at the alternator? If so, you will need to bypass the field grounding circuit. If you do not have power on that wire, you may be able to apply fused power to it, and have everything working. Both the power and the ground are supplied by the computer. The power is probably only given 5-15 seconds after the engine is started. The ground is the means by which the computer cycles the alternator on and of to keep the voltage in the right range. An internal problem on the computer on either circuit will make a non-functioning alternator, but the power side is easy to bypass. You will need to use your creativity for a defective regulator side.

On the personal side, for photos of our barn fire Saturday night, see: http://www.wgal.com/slideshow/[redacted] /detail.html?taf=lan

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

I have a problem during cold weather, after I just start in the morning driving, there is a rough running problem and severe loss of power... It usually is corrected within about 5 min of warming up. Not sure if related, but once the jeep gets to operating temperature, the check engine light comes on. It doesn't always stay on... but this is when it seems to initially come on daily. Thanks

Old Jeeps had a carburetor with a choke mechanism that richened the air/fuel ratio
during warm up.
Your newer computer controlled fuel injected Jeep uses the computer to do this.
It has a temperature sender that sends the computer a message that the coolant is cold,and richens the mixture.
The sensor is likely the problem (a scan would verify) and iseasy to replace. If having difficulty identifying it, it is on motor, near thermostat housing.Sometimes purchasing new one first helps identify it.

Thanks will get a scan done... the jeep seems to take forever to heat up (looking at the temp gauge). It rarely blows anything but luke warm air... could this also be related?

Do you think the fuel injectors may also have an impact? I have 125K, does it make any sense to replace them?

Injectors should be fine...check coolant level. That will cause heater to be slow and might cause the coolant temp sensor to read erratically.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

I own a 97 Jeep Wrangler SE, it has 86K miles on it, just replace there is a vaccum hose that appears to have oil leaking from the fitting where it connects.
The vehicle is sluggish through 3rd gear on uop and wont go over 65 mph.
Looked in the Hane's book and this hose is not listed or any reason.
I have read on the forums that I should replace the hose, and possibly thermostat. Looking for any answers right now.
Thanks
Roc

Hello, What size engine please?

If a 4.0L, suggested items to check for insufficient engine power are:

Check fuel injectors.
Ensure fuel pressure is correct.
Check for air inlet restriction.
Check for restricted exhaust.
Check coolant temperature sensor.
Check crank and cam sensors.
Check TP sensor and connector.
Check ignition and coil circuit.
Check MAP sensor.

Please describe where this vacuum hose in question connects at each end?

Roger

Just had cat converter to the tailpipe replaced last week as well as all o2 sensors. vehicle ran good for about 200 miles than check engine light came on and sluggish power with sluggish throttle through 3rd to 5th gear, the hose in question is on driverside leave crankcase cober and heads to what looks to be exhaust manifold. Hanes doesnt say what it is and advance auto parts tried to help with no luck

A vacuum line would not usually connect to an exhaust manifold. When connected to the intake manifold a tube has a vacuum source...and you believe it goes to the crankcase "cober" (cover??) and heads.

What engine size please? 2.5, or 4.0L?

Roger

The line is running from valve cover into the throttle body.

That should be the line that supplies vacuum to the PCV Valve. It is not unusual to see some oil on this line as crankcase fumes are heavy and after all there is oil in the crankcase.

If you remove the PCV Valve from the valve cover and shake it listen to see if it rattles like a baby rattloe. If it doesn't it can be cleaned with carb/choke cleaner in a well ventilated area and re-installed.

Pull the line loose from the throttle body with the engine running and you should experience a major vacuum leak. If not, the throttle body will need cleaned.

Roger

Roger

Thanks Roger, One more question where do I turn next to get rid of this too lean problem. you can smell it as you drive it smells sorta sweet, and I dont know where to go next.

An odor that smells sweet is most often linked to a coolant leak somewhere. Are you loosing coolant?

Until now there was no mention of the engine running too lean. Do you have access to a scan tool with sensor monitoring capability? A road test with such a tool would help you determine needs.

Roger

Not losing any coolant the radiator was replaced a month ago, new exhaust last week, it all started with a diagnostic check at advanced auto parts got an error code too lean bank 1. Than the cat converter went bad, since replaced error code is back. no scan tool

Without a scan tool you won't get the data you need to make an informed diagnosis and select the part needed.

Is the Check Engine Light (CEL) on? If so, try disconnecting the battery and reconnect it to clear the code set.

Road test and see if the code sets again and turns on the CEL.

Let me know the code and I will try to guide you.

I would like to know what size engine you have please?

Roger

Yes Check engine light is on the code was p1071, it is 2.5 l 4 cyl

Is that P0171? I'm fighting that same code on my minivan since we put fuel containing 10% ethanol in the tank.

The scanner calls for monitoring long term fuel trim to se if it falls in the range of -12.5% to +12.5% while driving. Mine does not. It stays for long periods of time on +19.4%.

I'm guided to look for vacuum leaks, check throttle body gaskets and crazy crap of which I find nothing wrong yet.

Roger

Causes A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

•The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
•There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.
Possible SolutionsPossible solutions include:

•In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
•Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
•Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

Roger

Any news here?

Thanks,

Roger

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

Drove it to the gas station and fueled up, it started then died and won't start. It will run when ether is sprayed down the TB. I have 45 lbs of preasure at the fuel rail, pulled the injectors out and hooked them back up, nothing sprays out when the motor is turned over. Put a timing light on it, it's on about 4 deg BTDC when spinning over. Plugs show a good spark when out and grounded to block. Any way to check the ECM or injectors?

Hi, Do each of the injectors have power to one of the wires on the injector connector? The ECM provides ground on the other wire to fire the injector.

If the fuel pump doesn't run, see if the Auto-Shutdown Relay (ASD) energizes with the key on. Check fuses.

There is no field test for the ECM.

Roger

The fuel pump is running, I have 40psi at the rail, I checked the crank position sensor. It has 3 prongs, all them show no connection (infinite ohms) between any 2. I put the volt meter on the injector plugs with the key on but don't get any voltage.

What engine are we working on here please?

Roger

If this is a 4.0L the fuel injectors get power when the ASD Relay energizes.

Power for the ASD and the fuel pump relays comes from Fuse #11 (10 amp) in the right side if the instrument panel. Since the fuel pump runs we can believe the fuse is good.

Try replacing the ASD Relay and see if injectors get power.

Roger

the 2.5 litre 4cyl. While I was waiting I rechecked the voltage at the injector plugs. I have battery voltage but only momentarily when the key is turned on. The voltage drops to 0 about the same time the fuel pump preasures up and kicks out.

I checked , the wiring for the 2.5L is the same as the 4.0L.

The power that is output to the injectors comes from Fuse #6 (30 amp) in the power distribution center under the hood right side of engine compartment. When the ASD energizes power is sent to each injector via a Grn/Blk wire.

The ASD should remain energized but the fuel pump relay should de=energize two seconds after the key is turned to ON.

Are you confident of the ASD Relay position in the Fuse/Relay box?

Roger

Yes I'm confident in the ASD relay location, it's marked on the inside of the cover. It has the same part numbers as the A/C relay so I swapped the two. Same results, the voltage to the injector drops at the same time as the pump kicks out (about 2 seconds after the key is turned on). Just to make sure I had the correct relay (ASD), I pulled it out and turned the key on. No woltage at all this time so I'm assuming the diagram on the lid is correct.

This leads me to suspect there is voltage made available to the ASD from the ignition switch when the key is in the START position.

When the engine cranks do you get voltage back for the ASD to energize? I'm going to look for a better diagram than the one I looked at before and see whats up.

Roger

There isn't any voltage after the intitial 2 to 3 seconds. It doesn't make a differance if the key is turned to "on" are all the way to "start" and the engine spins. Either way the voltage from the ASD to the injector last 2 to 3 seconds just like the fuel pump. I jumped the contacts on the ASD so the voltage was on the injectors all the time and hit the starter, nothing sprayed out of the injectors. The fuel rail and injectors are out of the manifold but hooked up to wiring hraness and the fuel line. Do the injectors need to be in the manifold to operate?

Injectors can be bench tested so being installed would not be required, just fuel pressure, voltage and ground.

If while cranking the engine you have the ASD jumped to provide voltage to the injectors, spark is present, but injectors aren't firing the ECM is not providing ground.

I'm still searching for a more detailed wiring diagram.

Roger

That pretty much sums it up. I have fuel presure to the rail, voltage to the injector but no injector fuel pulse thus no ground from the ecm. Just a thought while your lookin for a diagram, my hays manual says I should have 200 ohms plus or minus 75 across the crank pos sensor. I don't read any conductivity at all (open). However a friend sent me a trouble shooting guide from alldata, it says I should have a high resistance or open. In your opinion would it be worth the 70.00 gamble to put a new sensor in it?

I'm thinking your injector driver circuit inside the ECM has failed. This calls for replacing the ECM.

The crankshaft position sensor signal is used to trigger spark and fuel. The signal is there or spark would have failed at the same time as the fuel quit. I doubt you need one.

Roger

Do you have access to a noid light to plug into a connector for an injector during cranking? It bothers me we have no power to the injectors and I'm not wanting to blame that on the ECM.

Roger

Hey Roger, I didn't have a noid light so I rigged one from a side marker bulb. I get no light pulse when the engine is cranked. I only tried cylinder 1. Just to test the bulb I grounded the ground side of the test light with the hot side hooked to the hot side of the injector and the bulb lit. This is with the ASD jumped.

Your test is with the ASD jumped. Call me crazy but I believe the injectors and the coil should have power with the key on and the ASD in it's socket. The ASD should remain energized as it has a seperate ground supplied by the ECM than the Fuel pump relay does.....

Roger

Yea seemed odd to me to, just on a hunch I replaced the crank position sensor and it runs !!!!!!!. I'm guessing the ECM kicks the ASD out and won't provide a grd. signal to the injectors if the Crank position sensor doesn't provide a signal that the crank is turning. I guess the part I couldn't get through my head was about the sensor. I couldn't see any way the sensor could tell the ecm the crank position. It only reads the pulses as the starter teeth go by. I kept asking myself why the ECM needed to know if the flywheel was turning. Thanks for your help.

Good work! I could not get comfortable on replacing the ECM. It just wouldn't prove itself bad in my opinion and I want to remain careful when suggesting a customer spend money.

For all your hard work and your obvious knowledge of how things work you should consider investing in a scan tool that reads sensor paramiters. About $100.00 on eBay and I think Wal-Mart has one too.

If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up. If not ready, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

1997 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

My vehicle is surging and hesitating when i put a demand on the engine.It idles like a top with no problems and the check engine light is not coming on. I have already replaced the distributer cap, plugs and wires. I think I have an exhaust leak that by the flange wher the exhaust header and manifold meet. The O2 sensor is just below this area. Can this leak cause the O2 sensor to run rich and lean and make vehicle surge and hesitate when i put a demand on the engine? I already have a weld at the ends of the manifold. Any other ideas?

That exhaust leak is a common problem with Jeeps, from the exhaust manifold gasket as well as the manifold itself cracking. The cast iron manifolds themselves are expensive but Borla offers a decent stainless steel header that will fix that problem and give you more economy and power.
The leak is indeed diluting the exhaust enough to cause incorrect O2 sensor operation.
If you are looking for a Jeep that has more power, look into giving me a call at work Monday 9-[redacted]
Bruce

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

Before I can start my Wrangler 4.0 sport, I have to turn the key in the ignition one click (dash comes alive) several times until the fuel line pressurizes. Then the engine starts easily. If I don't do this, the engine turns over a lot before firing up. Is this a fuel pressure regulator issue?

Is this related to a second problem: Occasionally, immediately after starting up, the engine feels like it is misfiring. The engine stumbles as it is running. Doesn't seem to get worse under load. I can drive it and after a few minutes it seems to go away. I suspect it is a fuel delivery issue but it is too intermittent for me to troubleshoot.

as the regulator is a bypass type regulator (unused fuel returns to tank), if there is a problem in the regulator then the fuel pressure indeed might be the culprit.
There may be dirt (or ?) in it or in the injectors themselves.A good application of injector cleaner might help.
Also there is sometimes a check valve in the fuel pump.That might also be a concern, but I would try 1 or 2 applications of injector cleaner first.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

I have a 1997 jeep wrangler , with a2.5 engine, 80,000 miles, know when it gets hot, the oil pressure guage, drops to o , what could be the problem

Hello, have you installed a test gauge in place of the factory gauge to verify the pressure? Does the engine become mechanically noisey confirming there is a lubrication supply problem?

Has the oil and filter been changed recently where a different weight oil or a different brand oil filter was used?

Please advise,

Roger

no a mechanical gauge has not been used,

Using a test gauge would be a wise test unless the engine knocks/rattles from lack of oil where there would indeed be a pressure too low to prevent wear. If the engine becomes noisey a serious matter exists.

Roger

I'll check back later. I'm going to spend some time with my family.

Roger

Any changes here?

Roger

Sorry it took so long to get back to you . I put a manual gauge on the jeep , cold it was 60 lbs , and hot it was 40 lbs, so know it seems like it is fuel, or electrical ?thank you scott

What leads you to consider it could be fuel related? The pressure readings you have with the gauge you installed point to the original gauge or the sending unit for the gauge.

Roger

replaced sending unit, what it does is when you drive it on the highway at 65 ,for a while and then come to a stop, the gaugedrops to o and then returns to 40 . it also almost stalls, thank you, scott

This could be caused by oil not draining back to the oil pan fast enough, low oil level, or a lazy/sticking oil pressure regulator in the pump.

Is there is a dent in the oil pan? If so, the pick up screen may be in too shallow an oil level to keep up when stopping sends oil to the front of the pan (a result of inertia).

If the engine nearly stalls the oil pump output would be low at that point. Perhaps the throttle bore and butterfly plate need cleaning so the idle speed control can respond quicker.

Roger

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

new carb when it warms up it start hard and may stop and hard to start. the idle goes up and down?

1997 uses a throttle body not a carb.
The Throttle Position Sensor might require adjusting. The IAC (Idle Air Control) might be gummed up. (clean it). Might be a vacuum leak. You might want to have it scanned to see if there are any codes.

thank you for help. the motor seem to run good andveryrough somtime so could help me in how to set the things you said about. and i have anewer snap on machine. there is no clodes.

you might have to set via trial and error.Last time I set one up, I had my scanner hooked up, so I could see the settings on scanner

thank you but maybe you could tell me more on now to find the right numbers or values?

Ignition switch on, engine off
Most tps are .5 volt at idle and
4.5 volts wide open

i try to adjust the card speed and when you drive it for a road test the idle goes up. i turn it down than it stalls or chocks out?

Drive with scanner hooked up and see what those values are. Also are there any codes coming up?

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

i send this twice and i cant get the email answer? from the email/

Sorry about the delay, perhaps all the techs were sleeping?
I answered this in my previous mail.
Check the electrical ground circuits
(ensure they are attached to clean bare metal also.)

1997 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

the jeep has a new cab and it starts hard and somtime it stops and starts hard?

Since you changed the cab and it is hard starting, I would suspect the ground circuit between the body and the frame, is at fault. It will not hurt to add another cable bolted betweed the body and frame and the frame and engine block.
Stopping hard might be a problem with low vacuum in engine and or power brake booster diaphram problem.Either way , test for vacuum leaks.

1995 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my dash lights all of a sudden won't come on, but the dome light works. the fuse is ok. there is a male 4 prong plug hanging loose under the dash, and i have looked and looked but can't find where to plug it back into. it must connect the dash lights to the circuit. it's on a rather short line. will i have to take the dashboard off to plug it back in? hope you can help. thanks, joy

Hello, look and see if you have tail lights. Most dash light fuses get their power through the tail lamp fuse, so if the tail light fuse is blown even good dash lights can't get power.

Please advise,

Roger

so far you're right. i have no tail lights! it is dark now so tomorrow i will check the fuse and let you know. you don't have to write back. i will let you know tomorrow. thank you!

Some things to look for would be a tail lamp that retains water and if there is a trailer hitch, the wiring for the towed vehicle can get pinched or cut along it's route.

I wrote back anyway because I want to save you some time if I can.

Roger

1995 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving 

just put a 4 inch suspension on my 95 YJ it already has a 3 in body lift on it....now when i put the jeep in 4wheel drive it makes a sound like the front driveshift is binding...so i got the front driveshaft looked at and got it lengthened to fit my new height, but it is still making the same noise. asked my mechanic about it and he said that its fine and the noise will go away with time, saying the jeep just needs to get used to the new height...this answer doesnt sit well with me...any suggestions?

That answer does not sit well with me either. Raising a truck so high will bringon problems like that from increasing the angle the driveshafts must operate at.

The driveshafts are designed for the transfer case, driveshaft and differential to all be in as straight a line as possible, ideally 100% straight. When you shift this alignment, you put more stress on the u-joints and shaft because each joint needs to bend x degrees more than it was designed to bend.

You may need to get a driveshaft with a different style u-joint so it can handle the greater bend.

Must be some DEEP MUD you have in your town!

hehe yeah its some peanut butter mud...a couple of people have suggested a slip yoke eliminator...do you think that might solve the problem?

That should help by decreasing the angle of the driveshaft. Ideally, your differentials should also be tilted to face the transfer case more directly.

1995 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always Always

Hi, my 1995 Wraanger was running fine except it needed a new battery. Replaced that and it started with no problems. Am teaching my daughter to drive. She started it yesterday, and while pulling away from the house, popped the clutch and killed it. When she went to restart it, nothing....lights, radio, door alarm, everything works, but don't even get a clicking noise when trying to start it. I'm thinking its the starter but not sure.

uh...that should be Wrangler :)

Interesting. Let me get a schematic for the starting system and I'll be back to you soon.

Roger

Hello, Fuse #4 (40 amp) in the under hood power distribution center powers the starter relay and the ignition switch feed that switches the starter relay ON in the ignition key START position.

Is this fuse good? Can you locate the starter relay?

Roger

hmm..just checked the fuse and it looks ok, but I'll buy another one tomorrow and put it in. It's weird cause she started it no problem, killed it, started it again, killed it, and then it wouldn't start again after that. I pulled every fuse in the Jeep and they all look ok, but maybe this 40 amp one has a crack that I'm missing somehow. I'll let you know if it works tomorrow.

The existing fuse could be tested while installed using a 12 volt test light or a meter. Do you have either?

Do you have an Owner's Manual? It will have a legend of the fuses and relays. I will guide you in testing the starter relay circuits.

Roger

Hi,

Nope, don't have volt meter, etc. I replaced the 40 amp fuse, and also the starter relay fuse. Same thing. Guy at Kragens thinks it might be the starter. I can't find the owner's manual. Do older Jeeps have those auto shut off switches (i.e. some cars have shut off switches in the trunks if there is an impact or whatever). I'm guessing it's probably the starter, but every car I've owned that had a problem with the starter always started off with having a clicking noise coming from the starter. I even got under there and tapped it with a hammer (in the old days that would sometimes fix it).

It may be the starter. If it is, the tap with a hammer works best when some one else is in the drivers seat with the clutch down and the key held in the start position.

The starter relay is position E in the Power Distribution Box under the hood.

Will you please provide me your email address? I'll send you relevant data I researched today.

Roger

ok, I'll try the hammer bit when the wife gets back...with my luck, if I had the daughter do it, it would start and she'd run me over :)

my email address: [redacted]

Thanks!

I sent the email with three attachments for review.

Roger

What is new here please? Please update.

Roger

Sorry, been way busy with work, etc. I'm going to be pulling the starter off today or tomorrow and having it checked out. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks again for your help!

Kevin

Thanks for the update. Advise when you can.

Roger

1995 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

Every time I try to start my Jeep, I have to wait approximately 10-20 minutes for the fuel pump to run. We have replaced the fuel pump, strainer, filter, relay, and fuse. The same problem remains. Is there a sensor the triggers the fuel pump to activate, or do you have a suggestion for repair?

Hello, What engine please? Which fuse did you replace? Was it #5 in the fuse panel?

Have you replaced the Auto Shutdown Relay? If not, and when the condition is present, see if you can verify the relay has energized?

What series Wrangler do you have?

Roger

It is a 4cyl wrangler SE. I have checked the #5 fuse and swapped out the auto shutdown relay with a known good relay. Problem remains.

Thanks, what I am hoping to verify is can you tell if the Auto Shutdown Relay is energized when the condition is present?

Roger

How would I check that?

One way would be to unplug the relay and see if you can feel it click when you plug it back in.

The better way is to see if power is output on the 2 Dk Grn/Org wires from the relay socket. A test light or digital multi-meter would be needed.

The PCM supplies ground to the Auto Shutdown and the Fuel Pump Relay (at the same time) via the Dk Blu/Yel wire at each of these two relay sockets to energize both relays. The Dk Blu/Yel wire from each of these relays are spliced together and run to the PCM Connector terminal pin #51

Roger

We tested the grn/orange wire with the ignition on. We had no output. Additionally, we have noticed the auto shutdown relay clicks rapidly after 20-30 minutes. When that relay starts to click repidly, that is when the engine will actually start.

Actually, both the auto shutdown and fuel pump relays and clicking simultainiously.

Both of those relays get ground at the same time when the PCM provides ground via the Dk Blu/Yel wire from PCM terminal #51.

When the condition is present will wiggling the PCM wire connector help?

Will you examine the PCM connector terminals for a clean and tight fit? See what the resistance value is from the disconnected PCM connector terminal #51 Dk Blu/Yel wire to the relay socket terminals Dk Blu/Yel wires is. (Relays removed)

The resistance should be very low on this circuit to ground the relays.

If it is taking 30 minutes for the PCM to provide ground to these relays and the resistance is low (0.5 ohms ideal), the connections are clean and tight, I would question the serviceability of the PCM at this point.

Roger

We have 0 ohms of resistance through the blue/ylw wire. Jiggling the wires does not change any thing. The connections are clean and tight. The clicking relays click at 14.8 kHz. Any suggestions.

I don't understand the rapid clicking of the relays at all. They should energize from what the wiring diagram shows. They should stay energized until the key is switched off.

I ask myself what good could that do in terms of switching the fuel pump on/off at such a rapid rate?

I'm still believing the PCM is failing on this particular duty. You have proved the wiring, the fuses, the relays, the fuel pump, strainer, filter....there is nothing left to point to but the PCM circuit board.

Do you have a wiring diagram? Need one? I'd need your email address...

Roger

I ran this by another drivability tech. He offered that the PCM itself may have a bad/dirty ground connection.

My current info does not give the location of the ground and that is what I am looking for now to offer you.

Roger

I do not have a wiring diagram, if you have one please share it. [redacted] I will try to find the ground connection.

I sent you the diagram that I use,

Roger

I appreciate all your help. I feel confident that our problem is with the PCM. We are in the process of locating a reasonably priced PCM. I did receive the wiring diagram. It is pretty hard to read, is there a place online I can find it?

The diagram came from the Chilton Auto Repair Data Base.

There is a good chance your local library has access to the data base. I do not have a way to send you the link for direct access.

I'll try to improve my copy and resend it to you if I am successful.

Roger

I have reprinted the diagram from Chilton and will send one from Mitchell 1 as well.

I'll be where I can scan to email later today.

Roger

1995 Jeep Wrangler Windows / Glass   

I have a bad water leak. The cowl rubber seal looks OK. The water is coming in above the heater and leaks to both the driver and passenger sides. The outside vent drain tube is clear of debris. What else could be the problem? Tom

If the sides of the cowl area, under the sides of the frnder are clear of debris,(leaves and dirt collects there) the best way to find leak, is to have someone under the dash with a flaslight, while another sprays the cowl area with a hose.Where the wiper linkage goes through is a suspicious area.As long as its water not antifreeze...

Thanks for the follow-up. I'll keep you posted.

ok

1995 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Just picked a 95 jeep wrangler up. the lights works in the dash but the fan blower and all the gagues dont work. the fuse seem to be alright.

Check the fuseable links and their connections with an ohm meter.

How many fusable links am I going to be looking at? its the 2.5 4 banger. I took the dash out to check the harneses.

The fuseable links (2-3) will be in the barrery or starter area.While dash out, check the grounds and the connectors at the rear of fuse panel.

1995 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Every now and again all of my gauges will stop working. I have checked the fuses inside and under the hood and all of them are okay. I have also noticed that when the gauges stop working, my front left turning signal stops working too. Do I need to have my jeep rewired? Or is there something I am just over looking that could be causing this problem?

You may need professional diagnostics. What is possible is that there is a bad connection at the instrument cluster. Check for a bad connection at the cluster electrical connector, as well as for corrosion or pin damage inside the connector.

1995 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

I have a 1995 wrangler. When I attempt start the vehicle, nothing, it does not turn over. When I leave the key in the 1/2 turned position, after about 60 sec, it makes a clicking sound, the check engine indicator displays, then I can start it up. I've changed the battery, changed the starter. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

it sounds like you have a ignition switch shorting out and this will need to be replaced to fix the problem.
try wiggling the key around a bit to see if it does the same thing and if it does change intermeadiately this is your problem a bad switch.
I hope this helps

thanks for the reply. i did jiggle the switch yesterday, it gave me trouble, but I was never able to get the vehicle started. Do I need to change the switch only or also the coil and the rotor?

No this would have nothing to do with the coil or rotor.
The switch is the malfuncioning componet.

I attempted to install the part on Sat, but I was not clear about where it is located. Can you direct me to a website to guide with the installation? I have a chilton magazine, but I'm also looking for diagrams of the location of the switch. I plan to install it today.

The ignition switch is the one that needs to be changed out, the same one you use to start the jeep

I actually was able to get vehicle on the diagnostic machine (via state of Md. mechanic) and found out that the cam sensor switch had gone bad. So we are working on that. Thanks for all your help

you are welcome, you may still want to have the mechanic to look at the ignition switch
The rean being I have never seen a situation where a cam sensor switch has stopped a car or truck from starting or running.
A bad sensor will affect the way it runs of give a code for repair.
I hope this helps

1995 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline   

5 speed transmission sticks in first sometimes...grinds going into reverse and first...have to shut it off to get out of gear in first...had water in transmission from off road trip...drained three times and it worked better...but now has gotten worse need new tranny?

Since you can shift it OK when the engine is off, it sounds like the clutch, or transmission input shaft is dragging.

First, make sure that the clutch pedal feels OK. If the pedal sinks or fades, you have a hydraulic problem (master/slave cylinder) If the pedal is soft or low, you may have air in the hydraulics, or a failing pressure plate.

If the pilot bearing got wet, it may be failing and causing the transmission to stick/grind. If the clutch disc is breaking up/warped, it can cause the symptoms you are describing.

1995 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

To start my jeep I have to hold the accelarator pedal to the floor. Then it is hard to start. If I am traveling down the road it spits and sputters like it is running out of gas, not often though. If I fully accelarate then it does the same thing. The check engine light comes on.

Do you get any black smoke from the exhaust?

Try turning the key On, Off, On, Off, and On again-- now observe the check engine light. It [hopefully] will flash trouble codes.

Flash pause Flash Flash Flash= 13

Flash Flash pause Flash= code 21

Let me know which trouble codes you find. If you have trouble simply start over.

Do you get any black smoke from the exhaust when it does start? Does it matter how long the vehicle has been sitting in regards to the hard start?

no black smoke, and it does not matter how long. I thought it was the fuel pump replaced the screen pump and filter, no luck. Nothing with the check engine light it does not flash.

There may not be self diagnostics that apply to your Jeep, in which case the only way to find out what the computer has recognized as a problem is with a scan tool.

Are there times when it runs fine?

yes, but it never starts fine

If you had a multimeter you could attempt to test sensors individually. A scan would be best, your call?

The problem is I don't know which sensors would affect the operation of this type. What should I check first and where is it. I am an electrician. so the meter isnt the problem.

Here is some information on sensors-

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1f/e6/3[redacted] d801fe632/repairInfoPages.htm#hd1-1-2

Additionally test fuel injectors, measure ohms. Note if one has different resistance than the others.

Also test the TPS, throttle position sensor. This is a common potentiemeter, if you need additional information on testing this sensor let me know.

Holding the throttle to floor puts the vehicle in clear flood mode. A flooded engine will produce black smoke once started. You are not seeing black smoke, so maybe you lack fuel. Try spraying a small amount of carburetor cleaner into the throttle body or a large vacuum hose and see if the engine starts more quickly.

Does it idle okay when it is running, at the proper rpm's?

1995 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

Engine will turn over but will not stay running. I had a guy spray eather in the air filter the engine stayed running for about fifteen minutes the died

Hello, What is the fuel pressure? Fuel filter ok? Fuel pump or it's relay may be failing.

Roger

I am not that mechanically inclined with auto engines. I will check the fuel pressure. I have not had someone look at it since the problem I had it towed to the house. Is the fuel pump going to be in the fuel tank? I will need to look at the fuel filter also.

Yes the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. Troubleshooting basics call for verifying spark and fuel first.

A restricted fuel filter causes grief on any vehicle. Good fuel pressure can still be achieved but quantity of flow just won't be there.

Roger

1995 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

The jeep runs great until it heats up, I replaced the crank sensor,coil and still having the problem of it just turning off. I checked the fuel pressure when it is warm and have none, however when it's cold I have 30 psi and obviously starts

Hello,

Check for spark during the no-start period and see if spark is present. Also note if the Check Engine light comes on when you turn the Key ON, as it normally does. This will let us know if the vehicle's computer is powering up & if a crank signal is present.

I assume the fuel pump does not prime for a couple seconds during initial Key ON, when the problem is present.

1995 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

1995 Wrangler, 5 sp, 2.5L. Was running great then stopped. Engine turns over but does not atempt to start. Discovered blown 30 amp fuse under the hood, the fuel system fuse, changed fuse, blew again, changed fuel relay and auto shutdown relay, fuse blew. Pulled fuel level sensor and pump, both appear to work (pump spins with power and sender resistance varies with changes in position). What else could cause the 30 amp fuse to blow? Where should I look for a short? Where can I find a decent wiring diagram. The one in my manual is junk and none of the color codes match my wiring. (larry@floydbrace.com)

Hi, I'll locate a wiring diagram and send it to you. Please tell me if the one I send has the correct wiring color code.

Roger

Thank you. I traced a green and orange (or red) wire that seemed to be grounded. It appears to be the wire for the injectors??? Should one side of the injectors be grounded?

The Dk Grn/Org wire connected to each injector should not be grounded. It is power supplied to each injector. If this color wire is grounded that is a dead short before a consumer and the fuse will pop.

The other wire color connected to each injector is grounded by the engine's computer sequentially when each particular injector should fire.

Roger

I sent you the rest of the drawing so you will be able to trace the circuits out.

Roger

Now that you have the full diagram you can locate and disconnect all components using power supplied by the Dk Grn/Org wire. With all components on that circuit disconnected the Dk Grn/Org wire should not be grounded. Is it grounded with all consumers on the circuit disconnected? If it is there is a wiring short. (pinched, chafed, burned, broken insulation) If not, then one of the components has the problem.

Roger

Its very late here. I'll check in tomorrow.

Roger

I will need to follow up tonight, after work. I received 1 page wiring diagram that does show the correct colors. Looking at the diagram makes me skeptical of the "generator" shown at the bottom of the schematic. (is that the alternator, as I replaced the alternator about 4 months ago). Maybe that is the component that is grounding those wires??? Thanks, Larry

Keep in mind that to test the wiring for a short to ground all components on that circuit must be disconnected. Fuses pop if the power in the circuit that it protects goes to ground before any component on the circuit consumes power.

A serviceable component that is connected to the circuit will have continuity to ground.

Roger

thank you for your help. I found the wire to the transmission had shorted out to the exhaust. Went ahead and put a fuel pump in while I had the tank out troublehooting. The conversations help.

I'm very pleased you found the trouble. Great work!

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1994 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

If I try to start the Jeep right away it won't turn over, sounding like the battery is dying. If I put the key in, turn the electrical system on and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, it will trun over fine though. Nothing else is wrong with it after it starts.

Hello, This may be due to an Auto Shutdown Relay that is lazy to energize. The relay should be in the relay box under the hood.

If when the condition is present you can thump the relay and wake it up, I'd replace it.

What engine do you have, please?

Roger

It is the 4 Cyl 2.5L engine

2.5L four cyl...I'll look into it. Have you found the Auto Shutdown Relay (ASD)?

Roger

Yes I did, it didn't seem to change anything while messing with it while I was starting the car. I had the battery recharged and it seems to work a little bit better but I still can't start it up right away.

Can you unplug the ASD relay and with the key on find power in the relay socket on two of the terminals?

I'm wanting to see if the computer is outputing the 12 volts to power the ASD. Without the ASD relay energized there is no power sent from the ASD relay to power the ignition coil and the fuel injectors.

Roger

I'll try that. Have to wait til tomorrow to get a multimeter from work.

OK, I hope we can catch this thing before it gets worse.

Roger

I checked and got just under 12 volts. When I replace the relay I tried to start the car and it fired right up. Don't knwo what changed but I have been driving it all day and have had no problems...with that at least:) Just have to find otu why I have trouble shifting from first to second and down-shifting to send from third without the gears grinding. Thanks for your help Roger.

Is this the bonus round? :)

The shifting problem from first up to second gear and then from third down to second gear would be related to the shift synchronizer for second gear. (inside the transmission) The transmission has to come out for that repair.

Are we finished here? Will you please accept my answer so that I may be paid?

Thanks,

Roger

i didnt realize i had to click okay man, sorry thanks for all your help:)

1994 Jeep Wrangler Engine Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

I have a 95 wrangler 2.5L 4Cyl. It has been starting had lately, sometimes i have to turn the electrical system on and wait for 5-10 min and then the Auto Shutoff Relay will start clicking for 5-10 sec and when it finishes it will start up, but not without some effort. It died on me 2 days ago and i had to get a tow. The oil pressure gauge just dropped to zero and it wouldnt start no matter what. Today i went ot get it moved and put the key in to disengage the steering lock. While i was pushing the ASR started clicking again so i tried to turn her over and she started on the third try (not easily though.) The oil pressure was back up to normal, and i was able to drive her back home. She makes a lot of noise when i start her up, the engine almost sounds dry, dont know how else to explain it.

Does the engine have to sit a while before it sounds dry again?

The first thing I want you to do is check the diagnostic trouble codes.

Turn the key on (dash lights on, engine not cranking), then off, on again, off, and on.

This must be done three times within five seconds- On-off-on-off-on

Watch the check engine light. It'll go out then start to blink. Count the blinks as follows-

blink blink (pause) blink blink blink
The first set of blinks is the the tens place. The second set is the ones place. This would give us code 23. It make take a few tries to get an accurate reading. After each code is displayed there will be longer pause, then the next code will display. Let me know which codes you find.

If you cannot respond right away, I also want you to check for spark to the plugs during the no start period.

I had to wait until the ASR started clicking before the Check Engine light would come on but the numbers were 12, 33, 55.

33 pertains to A/C somehow? I dont have A/C in the car if that helps.

It is common for Chrysler products to store a code for a component that is not installed on the car (ignore the code).

Check the ignition switch (to see if it's delivering power).

Yes the ignition switch is delivering power, and know, the engine sounds dry and rattly every time I start it up. It does start easier when I try to start it after it has been running though.

This could get tough.

Try unplugging sensors and the distributor electrical connector, one by one, looking for one that allows the check engine light to come on (and apparently the ASD to activate). The idea is to find one that may be shorting the system.

Another thing to try- is a wiggle test. Wiggle the key switch, wiring harnesses, fuses, relays, grounds, etc trying to find one that will 'activate' the system.
Also test fuses (especially ECM/PCM) with a test light on both sides of the fuse (this will confirm if the fuse is working)(one end to know good ground, then each side of the fuse).

Is there another relay that matches the ASD, so you can swap to rule this relay?

1994 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

I have 115,000 miles on my Sahara. When I start it, there is a delay before it finally turns over. I went to a diagnostic garage and was told that the problem is not with the battery, starter or alternator. I took it to a Jeep dealership and, after 2 days, they couldn't find the problem. I went to another mechanic and he replaced the crank sensor, and that didn't help. Through this winter (in New Jersey), the long delays in starting only occurred when it was very cold outside (freezing or below). When the weather was warmer, there was less of a delay or it started right away. Now that it's Spring, and I thought the problem would abate, I noticed that the problem seems to be getting worse. I used to turn the key and hold it for a few seconds and if it didn't start, I would turn the key back, wait a few seconds, and try again. When it was cold outside, I had to do this about 6 or 7 times before it would turn over. Now I turn the key and hold it there until it starts. I noticed that just before the engine would turn over, the check engine light would flash on and off a few times. Then it starts. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can try to do myself? I've already spent about $300-350 without solving the problem. I would gladly pay someone if they could give me advice that works. Thanks! Maria

Please confirm which of the two things below is the problem-

The starter turns the engine over but the engine does not start.

or

The starter does not crank the engine over.

Hi Douglas!

The starter turns the engine over, but the engine doesn't start. Maria

Does the check engine light come on when you first turn the key on, as it normally does? I'll assume -yes-

The ASD (auto shut-down) relay is a common failure (the crank sensor is too, but apparently wasn't the problem). Check to see if there is a matching relay (preferably something you can do without) you can swap with this one to see if the problem goes away (or moves to the new location).

Beyond this you will have to start with basic troubleshooting- first of all is testing to see if there is spark to the spark plugs with a spark tester. If you have spark listen to see if the fuel pump (the humming sound in the gas tank) is running when you first turn the key on and during engine cranking. Note- the fuel pump usually will not run everytime you turn the key on (ie- if you tried doing so repeatedly) but will on the first attempt. By the 'key on', I mean to position where the dash lights first come on. Let me know what you find.

The following link should contain a general repair guide for your Jeep, useful if you don't have one.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Hi Douglas!

This is where I am right now. My brother has changed the dist. cap and spark plugs and checked the battery. There was no change. I also replaced the auto shut-down relay and that also wasn't the problem. Someone at a Jeep dealership said it might be the "engine controller"(???) My brother says it's the electronic ignition control. Any thoughts? Thanks! Maria

The dealer is talking about the 'computer'. If you are ready to try this as a fix price used computers.

This happens warm or cold?

In the winter, when it was near freezing outside, there was a long delay in starting.
On warmer days, it seemed to start more quickly. So I assumed it had something to do with the weather. However, when it became warmer outside, I still had a problem, but now it seems to be worse when it's damp or raining. Usually there's only a delay first thing in the morning or when it sits for a long time.

Okay,

Does the check engine flashing sequence you mentioned happen everytime before it starts?

Yes. When I turn the key and the engine cranks and doesn't start, if I hold the key so that it continues to crank, as soon as I see the check engine light flash on and off, I know that the engine is going to turn over.

This could be a computer problem itself, altough tough to confirm. I'd check for [key on or engine cranking] reference voltage to the sensors during the no start period. Reference voltage is five volts. Check a sensor or two and let me know.

1994 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline Sticking When shifting Always

My shifter will not go into any gears what do I do to fix?

Is this an automatic or stick shift?

It is a stick

Does the clutch pedal feel normal? Can you put it in gear with the engine off?

1994 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

When you turn the key on you have to wait about 10-15 seconds, the relays or relay in the power distribution center clicks fast, then the up shift- check engine lights will come on, you can also hear the feul pump come on, I've been told to look for a broken wire but i am having no luck.

WHAT ENGINE DO YOU HAVE?
Check that the clicking relay is not a bad relay.
Pinpoint it give me the # name location or position so we can see which relay it is that is the problem relay.
After you get the storsd code from the PCM disconnect the neg batt terminal for about 1 minute and reconnect itsee if the problem remains.
The check engine light is probly stored a code by now, can you get ahold of a PCM scanner to pull the code, possibly this will tell us a lot of information
It is possible that you have a connection going bad I can send you a diagram if you can provide me with a email address to send it to.

The engine is the inline 6 cylinder, i have a snap-on scanner, no codes. I do know its not a bad relay i have changed them all. i not sure which one of the four is clicking because it happens too quickly and on top of that the cover to the power distribution center has been lost. My email address is [redacted]

I am trying to upload a picture of the diagram will send it soon

now sending

I apolagize but at this time this is the best picture I have, it ias kinda hard to make things out .
I will look further

Thanks for the pictures, i checked every inch of wiring, still no luck, is the ignition switch a common thing to go bad on these vehicles?

no it is more than lkely not the switch itself because it works.
I need to check on another schematic and will get right back to you

You really need to find out which of those relays are clicking so we can know where to start analizing the problem otherwise we can have no idea of which street to turn down.
Can you have someone to turn on the ignition while you put a finger on the relays and feel for the clicking culprit ?, that is usually the best way

1994 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my brake lights do not work. however the third brake light above the spare works. the fuse is ok i replaced the bulbs. turn signal,tail lights work. what could be wrong

Test the brake light switch on the brake pedal. If it tests ok, the turnsignal switch is the probable issue (the brake light circuit on most cars.trucks goes from the brake light switch through the turnsignal switch to the rear lights).

thanks. i did notice when i turn the 4 way flasers on the turn signal lights on the dash only the left blinks until i wiggle the turn signal lever.

Definatly sounds like it requires a turnsignal switch

1994 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

when jeep gets hot it spits and sputters and backfires looses power as well ???

this is a 4cylinder engine

This sounds like an ignition problem. I would let it get hot, then put an HEI spark tester on the coil wire and look for spark. If it is not there, or skips beats, you have a problem with the ignition coil, computer, or pickup coil. Most likely the ignition coil or ignition wires. I am assuming the check engine light is not on and the problem is worst when stepping on the gas.

yes it does get worst , i will try that thank you

Very good.

1994 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a '83 CJ7 with the factory upgraded multiport fuel injection. This is direct from Chrysler. It has everything off of a '94 wrangler.
My problem is that it won't idle when I start it cold. I replaced the TPS, O2 sensor, MAP sensor, installed a header with new exhaust and intake gaskets, sprayed down the intake to check for vacuum leaks. I have also replaced the alternator, battery, and solenoid.
It still will not idle when I start it in the morning, and even after warm the idle surges up and down. It does not have any codes, and the check engine light is off. Please help
Pl

Okay,

You need to check the idle air control valve (aka idle speed motor) and see if it is operating. Removing the valve and cleaning its pintle and bore into the throttle body is often effective. If this checks out-

Test the CTS (coolant temperature sensor). It may not be recognizing the cold engine. If you need further instruction on testing visit autozone.com and Register a 94 Jeep and click on Vehicle Repair Guides to access a free online repair manual that covers the sensor.

Also inspect wiring to both components. Make sure there is not corrosion or pin damage in the connector OR a pinched wire... somewhere.

Give me an update and we'll continue as necessary.

The voltage values are all within spec. I used a Snapon scanner and was able to do a system test with the IAC. It responded within range. I replaced the coolant sensor a while ago. The scanner gives me all normal readings. It does appear that the O2 voltage is low at idle, but when I rev it, it jumps to almost 1v and than back down. The O2 is new as well.

Have you monitored fuel pressure?

How did the engine run/idle before the upgrade?

Does the engine run smooth above idle?

Is the map receiving full vacuum at idle?

Check for shorting injectors or low flow rate, etc.

It ran ok before. It had the junk carb on it. The motor is strong. Fuel pressure is about 50psi at idle and load. I have replaced the MAP. The scanner shows that the voltage for it is within spec. I have tried all of the test that the scanner has, and everything checks out.

Apply 18-20 inches of vacuum directly to the map sensor and see if the engine idles differently. Don't press the gas.

You may also need a smoke test (or less efficient means of testing) for vacuum leaks. Vacuum line leaks are usually not found with carb cleaner. Plug off the power brake booster line, canister, etc, looking for any change in idle.

1993 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I tried to change my altenator and when I did this, I accidentally broke off one of the mounting plates that comes from the wiring box that mounts to the back of the alternator. Would this be a big problem, or is this just a mount and nothing to do with the electrical system? Would this cause my check engine light to stay on and what do you think my process should be?

Check that plate to be sure you did not take any wires with it. While I doubt the plate will affect the wiring, it should checked anyway. The check engine light is a different problem. Your process should be to either take the car to a diagnostic shop for a thorough examination, or, go and get the best manual for the car that you can find. I'd recommend a Chilton's manual, if you can find one.

1993 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

I have a 1993 jeep wrangler 4 cyl, 2.5 L, 5 speed manual transmission with 135,000 miles, for the last few weeks it gets stuck in first gear, and it wont unlock, and when i finally get it to disengage, 2nd and 3rd gears grind, is this a clutch issue or are my synchronizers shot? shall i look to get a new transmission or can the problem for fixed for less money than a transmission would cost, thx

If it has a hydraulic clutch, check the fluid in reservoir.If full. check the adjustment, your clutch pedal should have about 1" freeplay.If that is ok, then the cluch would be the problem. An out of adjustment or worn out clutch will definatly cause the shifting problems. The transmission is probaly ok, as long as you do not use it till clutch replacement.Grinding the gears is hard on it, and I'd suggest a trans fluid change during clutch job.
The mileage is about right for its first clutch job.

I just got a new clutch put into the jeep, it cost me
about 700.00 which i heard was a good price, my mechanic
called me and said that my trans is gone, how can thisbbe?
i was noticing the grinding gears and i though it might
of been the trans, but according to you, it was the clutch,
can it be something else? im so confused now, i feel i
spent alot of money and it wasnt the problem, was it the
trans from the begining?

When the clutch is worn, the trans gears will grind when enguaging. When they grind often enough, of course it is possible to damage the transmission gears. Hard to say from here if they were damaged a little or bad.See if your tech can show you damage, if he cannot, I'd worry.

well i finally put a reburbished transmission in my jeep as well as a new clutch, but it still grinds in 1st and 2nd, my mechanic said it just a few kinks and as the hydrolic fluid moves thru the new trans it should go away, is this ok? or shall i be worried?

I'd worry. "refurbished" does not mean rebuit, just patched up.It should not grind at all.Get a 2nd opinion. Drive by another shop, when they test drive it, they will probably tell you require a trans.

i meant to type rebuilt trans, not refurbished, i brought it from a tranny shop in florida with a 2 month guarranty, and had it shipped to my mechanic who installed it, my mechanic said it still grinds a little in first and second gear and this should go away once the fluid moves about the trans, is he correct?

It should take about 15 seconds for the oil to move around the trans,I would still get a second opinion to listen to it.

1993 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

jeep was parked awhile back and when i went to start it had no fuel or spark. if i run a direct lead to fuel pump it works..checked all relays. coil has power but no spark when cranking. coil bad? changed the computer and crank position sensor already.

Hello, Do you have power to the Auto-Shut Down Relay coming from fuse #5 in the fuse box?

The Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base suggests checking for a cracked or carbon tracked dist cap, a defective rotor, and check for corroded wires and connections.

Do you need a wiring diagram for the engine controls? I'll need your email address.

Try holding the disconnected secondary wire from the coil to the dist cap 1/4" above the coil wire tower in the dist cap while cranking the engine with the starter. Does spark jump to the coil wire tower in the dist cap?

Please advise,

Roger

hi...
all the large fuses underhood have power on both sides of them. also i have switched all the relays around.
(and put them back) the positive side of the coil has power but on cranking no spark is coming from the coil. also with the key on no power goin to the distributor. also it seems fuel pump should kick on with key on with out cranking but does not. hot wire fuel pump and pump does work
also i could use a wiring schematic..thanks..my email is [redacted]

OK, my question is does the relay socket for the Auto Shutdown Relay have power arriving from the fuse box fuse #5 with the key on?

If the Auto Shutdown Relay doesn't power up and energize the fuel pump relay won't either.

Did you try the test cranking the engine and holding the dist cap end of the coil wire 1/4" above the coil wire tower of the cap? Did spark occur?

I'll get the wiring diagram scanned to email for you.

Roger

Which engine do you have? 2.5L or 4.0L ?

I may have a second diagram to send you.

Roger

its the 4.0 6 liter.

if you have something that shows the position of the relays..would be helpful..i dont think i have the box on them anymore.

I'll send the 4.0 L diagram for now for your review. Later today I can get the fuse/relay box legend.

Roger

np im not in a huge rush...thanks

David

I sent 'em. Just print 'em.

Roger

thanks roger..im goin to try and get a chance to look at it again tomorrow...

I'll be in a stock holders meeting from noon - 4 p.m. CDT tomorrow. I'll check in when posible.

Roger

my relay box didnt match the one you sent..so i'll tell you what i had.
standing on the passenger side the block closest to me...we will call A. it was empty B (moving toward drivers side)had relay and had power. C had relay and had power. D no relay but socket had power. E was empty. F had relay and had power. G had relay and two power spots..others only had one.
as to your earlier question no spark comes from the coil wire.

Interesting, my source is the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base. Though I typed in the correct year model, the data base brought up the 1989 legend.

Ok, that happens at times as the legend is expected to be the same for the model year inquiry. I may have to visit a dealer to get it right.

Carumba!

Roger

i wonder if thats just a one size fits all thing they post..i was in the store and looked at the little chiltons manual and it showed the same one.

Chrysler Corp. is forever changing things up and at the time info is released to "outsider" data sources for print there is little hope the info remains current.

Many times when parts are needed and a Jeep Dealer parts dept is contacted they are paralized without the full VIN and the vehicle production date.

I'll keep looking...

Roger

any luck?

Not yet, I made arrangements to talk with a Jeep Dealer tomorrow to see if he has something he will fax to me.

Roger

Okay, What the Jeep Dealer said is that the end of the power dostribution center that has the smaller fuses is end "A" as far as relays are lettered. As the relay sockets are lettered toward the end of the box where the larger fuses are the last socket is G just like the legend I sent you.

Based on your report of how you are seeing relays positioned in your relay box....it makes no difference from which end you begin assigning a letter to a socket the assignment of letter "D" is the same position.

That slot you lettered "D" is for the Auto Shutdown Relay and there should be a relay there. The first relay socket at each end of the relay box is not used.

Roger

ok...i moved the one end relay to the center...
still no spark..no fuel...and tach does not move when cranking motor over

Do all of the relays have the same number of terminals?

Using your wiring schematic as a guide do you have power, or is it ground on the Dk Blu/Yel wire in each of the Auto-Shutdown and the Fuel pump relay sockets?

Roger

all termimals have the same number.
and....no power goin to dk blue and yellow wires. there is power to the red/red&whte

Did you check to see if the Dk Blu/Yel is grounded when the key is on? If it is grounded then the Wht/Yel wires at each of the relay sockets should have power with the key on.

I'm wanting to decide if the computer is supplying the power and ground to energize the fuel pump and auto-shutdown relays.

When these two relays are energized the power from the Red/Wht wires is connected to the Dk Grn/Org, or the Org/Blk wire circuits of the coil, injectors, and the fuel pump.

Roger

"smacks forehead" ok i figured if it didnt have power it was automatically grounded. what do i need to do to test if it has ground? can i just clip the test lite to the pos terminal and then touch the wires to see if it lights the test light up?..

Can i just clip the test lite to the pos terminal and then touch the wires to see if it lights the test light up?

Yes Sir! The computer supplies both the power and the ground to these critical relays. I'm looking for what function is missing?

Roger

ok....the blue and yellow wires will give me a ground, but only for a few secs at a time. the wht/yell wires have no power. the red/wht wires do have power.

Thanks, that tells me that the Blu/Yel wire is the ground to the relays. When the key is first turned on the computer will supply ground for two seconds so the fuel pump will run and pressure up the fuel rail to the injectors. You have proved the ground function is working on the Blu/Yel wires.

Looking at the wiring diagram locate terminal #9 where the Wht/Yel wire connects. The computer should supply power on the Wht/Yel when the key is on. The relays are not getting the power to energize. We need to know why that is?

Does the computer connector have a loose or damaged connector terminal #9? Can you detect power on the Wht/Yel wire close to the computer but not at the relays? That would indicate a wiring problem. Can you verify continuity on the Wht/Yel wire from the computer connector terminal #9 (disconnected) to the relay sockets?

We're getting this narrowed down,

Roger

i should mention two other things. one with the key turned off it acted the same. ground for about two secs. and on the auto shutdown (believe it was this one) or the fuel pump relay...when i would do this to the wire that should have power..u could hear the relay click..or enegize..but that was all.
my jeep is where i used to live 2 hrs away.i. drive truck through there 5-6 days aweek so i usually stop and do what you ask. yesterday i drove all day and then all night..stopping at the jeep in the morning and i didnt write down which relay it was for sure that did this so im a lil foggy.
i'll try monday to check that wire coming out of the computer

Okay, when you get the chance give it a shot. We are still trying to verify if the terminal #9 on the computer is power or ground. When you recheck this we will proceed from there.

Roger

no power going to #9 from computer or from fuse panel on firewall. fuse does have power.
will try removing harness and see if there is power there at the computer when i get a chance.
any other way to check if the other wire is a ground.
my process was just to take test light and attach to positive on batt. and then touch to see if it completed the circut. it does for the couple secs and then goes out..but like i said earlier..it does this regardless of key being on or not.

We need power from fuse #5 (10 amp) on the Wht/Yel wire to terminal 9 on the computer. This should happen when the key is turned on. If fuse #5 has no power to it nor provides power to computer terminal #9 we need to fix that.

Don't worry about proving the ground any further. The computer is reacting normally to the voltage carried by the test light by providing ground for two seconds on that circuit. I believe that is a normal result.

Roger

fuse has power to both sides..but coming out of fuse box..wire has no power..and no power coming out of computer

Disconnect the battery. Turn the fuse box over and see if you can find the break in the output wire from fuse #5. It may have broken right at the fuse terminal. Repair as needed.

Roger

ok...jeep runs and i hate to say this was something very stupid. after splitting the fuse box apart and finding the wire i noticed where it went. the dome light..
which i probably stole the fuse to put some where else. i cant imagine why the autoshut down and fuel pump get their power from the dome light fuse ..but they do...plugged fuse in and it runs. *smacks forehead*
thanks for all your help.
David

I'm in your corner. It is not made public how many times I have successfully experienced very similar events in my thirty years turning wrenches.

I applaude your honesty.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you!

Roger

1993 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

I have a Jeep Wrangler 1993. question, if I smell gas when car is idle what could that be? 2)I took the car around the block and the car started to misfire and then stalls 3) when car starts to get hot it also stalls

Might be the coolant temp sensor, (cause to run rich) or the Oxygen sensor (run rich).
Since it appears to be temp related, I would say 'coolant temp sensor' but a scan for codes would verify that.

I've changed both coolant and oxygen sensors; it got better but not much more because it has this choking misfire then it stalls when idled. Matter of fact I changed all the sensors on the Jeep. Is there a dignostic coder for a 1993 Jeep?

Most parts stores in the US and some Midas' offer tha diagnostic code check for free.
Sometimes a plugged catalyctic converter can cause your symptoms. Midas can check that easily.

Bruce, thank you so much, I will take your advice. One more question when you mean plugged, does that necessarily mean getting a new catalytic converter? On a lighter note: in the future, if I have problems with my Jeep further, how can I request you on this link?

Yes, a new converter is in order.Aprox $100 and 1 hr shop time. Not sure if you can make specific tech requests.

1993 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems   

dash lights went out and all fuses appear good and headlights turn off intermittantly while driving (only when the low beams are on) Can you help shed some light?

Intermittantly leads to me thinking that it is a switch problem.Either the contacts on the switch or the internal circuit breaker cycling on and off.

1992 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

I have a jeep wrangler 4.0 with approximately 180,000 miles. I changed the metal body about one year ago. The motor starts and idles perfectly during the "cold" loop. I have replaced the throttle postioning sensor and the other control module. As the engine warms up it will stall. If i rev the motor up it will continue to idle. Any help on what to check would be appreciated.

Hi, First thought is to check for a vacuum leak. Look at the vacuum lines where each end connects for cracks, splits, or disconnection.

What engine please?

Roger

4.0 six cylinder

Did you find a vacuum leak?

Roger

No vacumn leak found. The vehicle at any speed runs great. Also, when initially started, would sit and idle all day. The problem seems to exist as the vehicle warms up, If I rev it up when coning to a stop the vehicle will continue to idle. wise, after being warm, it will stall.

Reving the engine when coming to a stop would boost the fuel mix toward rich. Interesting that this step enables the warm engine to idle without stalling.

Have you had the fuel injectors professionally flushed? I am also curious about how clean and tight the ground connections for the computer are.

Have you examined the connections for the computer for corrosion or moisture?

Roger

I have not checked the computer for ground issues. I did have to remount the computer when I changed bodies. Where is the computer grounded? I have run several bottles of fuel injector cleaner thru the motor. Otther than stalling the motor runs great. Like I say, if I started it and left it at idle...it would run all day.

Did you change the routing of the wire harness for the computer to accomodate the relocation?

The Black wires in the computer connector terminals #11 & #12 are the ground for the computer. Their connection to the body should be near the computer, clean and tight.

There should be a ground from the battery to the engine and another from the body to the engine. Good ground terminal connections often have a barbed washer between the terminal and the engine or body to improve the terminal contact.

Roger

I left the drive train and all related external wiring together on the chassis. I removed the dash harness from my old jeep and placed it into the new body. I drilled four holes in the firewall, mounted the computer and plugged it in.

I'll try and locate a ground distribution chart tomorrow when I can get to a data base I cannot logon from home.

Are you satisfied that the Idle Air Control Motor is working properly? I wonder if it lets the throttle close and then can't raise it as needed to maintain curb idle.

How clean is the throttle bore and valve where the two touch at closed throttle? Is it sticking?

Roger

I replaced the IAC motor. I haven't really looked at how clean the assembly is.

I'm interested in the cleanliness of the throttle body bore and valve where the two meet when the throttle is closed.

Perhaps cleaning these parts will help prevent stalling.

Roger

I'll try that next.

Thanks

The ground for the engine's computer is stated to be Ground "G". Pins 11 & 12 are ground circuits.

So far it is an industry mystery where this ground "G" is! Soooooooooo.....

Warm up the engine until it doesn't want to idle as you have described and shut the key off. Disconnect the engine's computer.

Try an Ohm Meter on connector pins 11 & 12 to the battery ground post to see if the resistance exceeds 0.5 ohms. 0.5 ohms or less is desired.

This should determine if there is a computer ground issue.

Roger

1991 Jeep Wrangler Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always Always

Will not start. Has power to ing. switch. No power when you try to start. I can short at stater, will turn over. No ing. Assory will not work either. All fues ok. Head lights work, high and low beam. No power when ing. switch is in on position. Help?

is the Jeep stick shift or auto? It sounds like the problem can be narrowed down to 3 possibilities... bad ignition switch, a bad starter relay/ starter solonoid, or if manual it can be starter inhibitor switch. fortunatley all fixes are reletively inexpensive but require basic electrical knowledge. I will be glad to assist further through email if needed upon acceptence of this reply....good luck

[redacted]

Walt Boyer ASE Master Tech

1991 Jeep Wrangler All Part Groups   

jeep 4.0 starts runs for 10 seconds then stalls. I can hear fuel pump run when key turned on. Replaced fuel filter, lines are clear from tank to fuel rail.

you will want to check your vacume lines for leaking and check your intake manifold
for leaks
Do a fuel pressure test to see if there is pressure in the rail at least 35-40 psi
check fuel pressur regulator
you will probably fine a problem in this area

checked for vacume leaks with wd-40 no change in engine. Checked fuel pump preasure buils up to 25-30 lbs at startup then drops to zero and engine dies. Any other ideas before I change out the in tank pump?

check fuel pressure regulator first

1991 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

fault code 12. Power to coil drops to zero as soon as engine starts to crank. Auto shut down relay tested good.

The problem may be in the ignition switch then. Try using a remote starter to crank the engine (this leaves the ignition switch in the run position). Will the engine run now?

With the ignition switch in the on position there is 12vdc at the coil, when the ignition switch is turned to the start position, the starter cranks, the engine turns, but the voltage to the coil drops to zero. The ignition switch is working. To me - this points to the auto shutdown relay circuit cutting out voltage to the coil. The PCM controls the auto shutdown relay, but I do not know all of the inputs to the PCM

Which engine do you have?

A shorted crank/cam sensor can shut down computer (most common on Jeeps). Unplug this and try again. The vehicle will not start but you can discover a shorting component if voltage is not lost at the coil.

Any sensor can cause this failure (cam/crank most common), so move on to other sensors and test one by one.

BTW- the fuel pump primes during initial key on, as it normally does?

It has 2.5L. I just spent the $15 on an ignition switch just so I could rule that out. I am in the process of changing that right now. The fuel pump was just replaced yesterday. Thats how this whole ordeal started. After the pump was changed, the vehicle would not start, had plenty of fuel just no spark

When the pump primes during initial key on (engine not cranking) does voltage remain at the coil?

Well we can rule out the ignition switch. When you turn the ignition from off to on there is 12vdc at the coil until you turn the ignition switch to start or off. At that time voltage drops to zero volts. I am using a fluke model 73A in autorange mode.

Can you bypass the auto shutdown relay to see if it starts?

Well, you can bypass or jumper the relay so it stays on. How did you test the original, by swapping with a matching relay?

Did you try the other tests I gave you?

I swapped the auto shutdown relay with the starter relay. I am in the process of testing the crank position sensor. It is supposed to be 125-275 ohms at pins a - b. The pins aren't marked but there are only three pins. I have ohmed out all combination of pins and all are open. I am on my way to the auto parts for a sensor

as for the fuel pump priming. I haven't tested that. I do know that I have fuel in the rail. I can get fuel out of the test point after trying to start.

Do you have a 4.0L engine?

2.5 l inline 4

What did you find with the crank sensor?

I thought for sure that it was the culprit because it ohmed out open, it was also magnetized. I installed the new one with the same results. Crank but no start. This is really frustrating me. up to this point the jeep had been running fine.

Alright - now we're getting somewhere. I bought a fuel test gauge and found out that while there is some flow - there is no pressure. You can hear the fuel pump running but no pressure. I put more fuel in just in case and no pressure. Pump has been changed, filter has been changed. It was late at night when the new pump went in. I'm pulling the tank again to see if a line got pinched or some other late night, tired mistake happened.

Pinched Fuel Line!!!!!!! It is alive!!!!!

Thank You for your help. It was good to just be able to get ideas from someone. The auto parts store was useless in the info dept.

1991 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System   

After replacing my drained battery, my engine dies when I come to a stop. It doesn't seem to want to idle whatsoever. The Jeep was sitting for a few months. Any suggestions?

The computer in this year Jeep keeps the idle speed in its memory. When battery has been replaced, it can "forgotten" how it needs to idle. It should relearn itself in a few days. You may also have some carbon deposits on the throttle plate. Cleaning them will often help the engine not to idle too low.

Awesome...thanks for the quick response.

You're welcome. Sounds like a minor problem.

1989 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

sometimes it wont start, just crank and it seams to be when its cold, after a while of me cranking it will start. i have noticed there is no spark, fuel pump comes on, i have power to the coil which is new, also have a new ecu. it will be fine for a while and then starts acting up. please help

Sounds like you have done some helpful testing. Most likely you have a crank sensor that is either out of adjustment or just needs to be replaced. They are not so expensive.

where is the crank sensor located, and this will cause it just to crank and not start, and sometimes will start right up. sorry for4 more questions but i have been changing parts and dont want to spend more money for nothing. Thanks again

The crank sensor is on the rear of the engine where it bolts to the transmission. It has a 3-wire connector and can cause intermittent hard starts, often temperature related. There are ways to test them, but the test equipment will cost more than the parts. This sensor is less than $100 brand new.

1989 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System Won't Start When starting When cold

My 89 Jeep wrangler has a hard time starting in the mornings also it keeps on running when I shut the vehicle off, what could be a fix

I think you need to have the vehicle scanned for any errant codes. My guess at this time would be a TPS or ECM. Check with your local parts houses and see if they offer this service. Some are offering it for free or at a nominal fee. Follow the flow chart if they can provide you one.
Good Luck,
Paul

1989 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

vehicle engine starts in start mod but shuts off in run position

Sounds like an ignition switch problem. The switch is located under the dash at the top of the column.It is actuated by a rod that the key mechanism.The switch itself is attached with 2 screws on slotted holes. I would try adjusting it first. Replacement, if required, is easy.

1988 Jeep Wrangler Engine Stalling When coasting When warm 

Hi guys, I have a stumpper here. A 1998 jeep wrangler with a 4.2 engine came in stalling and running badly. It has a 101 thousand miles on it and the carb was in bad shape, we replaced the carb and the spark module on the fender,it runs great now when cold and as it gets hot then all of a sudden u come to a light and it just dies, when this happens it also dies when you put it in gear mostly reverse but drive also. We checked fuel psi and had VERY little (like a lbs.)things got better after that but then it dose the same thing again. I'm att my end, please help. Don

Check the ASD (auto-shut down relay), it may be failing causing you to lose fuel. You may have a matching relay close by that you swap for test purposes.

There is no ASD relay this has a feedback carb. The only thing that i see is that i have good spark from the coil but weak spark at the end of the plug wire, the wirs are new but i may change them anyway. What else do you think? Don

Some new wires are bad right out of the box, especially aftermarket ones. The best aftermarket are NAPA Beldons.

That said, it seems like the problem is still a fuel pressure issue. It seems pressure is dropping to low. If there is no restriction in fuel supply the pump is likely failing.

As I said before I changed the fuel pump and I have a steady 4.5 lbs. which is in spec. and did not budge for an hour. We must be missing something. Don

Don, When you replaced the fuel pump module did you rotate the module until the arrow points to the front of the vehicle?

Did you replace the fuel filter/pressure regulator and is the fitting positioned at 10 o'clock?

Roger

The fuel pump is a mechanical fuel pump working off the camshaft, the filter is new I even tried it with the filter off. I can see this as a fuel problem because when it is cold it runs great then when warm it will stall as you roll up to a light then keep stalling when th idle comes down. I am tempted to try another carburator. I appriciate your patients. Don

Well. I screwed up and thought this was a 1998 model. That's why I sounded looney!

Let me regroup and I'll be back. If you prefer you can release the question for others. They may be faster.

Roger

What have you tried in regard to Idle Speed Control and Sol-Vac Switching Tests?

What is your email address and I will send you some trouble charts to ponder?

Roger

send to [redacted]

Sent three charts for your review.

Roger

thank you will review and get back to you. Don

Thanks! Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

Hi Roger, everything checked out on the sole-vac, thanks for the info. Like i said I had put a new carb on thing (rebiuld swaped out) I brought it back because the electric choke was defective. I told the guy my problem and he has a jeep so he says to leave it. He tells me that there is a purple wire that goes from the distributor to the computer then from the computer to the spark box and that wire gets messed up and you notice it when it gets hot. long story short he repaired it and now it is fine. thanks for your help. Don

Well hey! We can deal with a happy ending from any source...

But I don't know if that means I earned your business or not with my efforts.

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I thank you!

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I dont see ok to pay it says ok and close is that the same? Don

1988 Jeep Wrangler Ignition System   

I set timing to 9 degrees before tdc as specified, also set idle speed to 700 rpm as specified. At acceleration of course the timing advances, but will remain advanced, will not return to setting ( 9 degrees before tdc) when it idles back down, and of course the idle speed is a little high. Reset timing and idle several times, got the same results.

Check for a bad ditributor or timing belt.

rotor showed signs of arching. Ignition part seemed to be loose, may be normal. I pulled the distributor and other then the ignition part being loose, everything else seemed to be fine.

1988 Jeep Wrangler Engine   

I changed plugs,distributer,wires& cole still will not crank i have not checked fuel pump.

Hello, Do you have spark? Have you checked fuses? You will want to test fuel pressure.

Do you have 12 volts to the ignition coil?

Roger

1988 Jeep Wrangler Drive Train / Driveline   

when the car is in 4 wheel drive and im driving at 55 mph i get a bad vibration that shakes the whole car changed transfer case helped out a little changed front drive shafts u-joints helped a little checked all the bearings in the diff and checked inner axel bearing on the right side all good checked axle u-joints they fillgood no hard spots and it pulls to the right and this only happens in 4 wheel drive at higher speeds

Try manually engaging the front axles with the transfer case still in 2wd. This should isolate the front differential so we know if what happens when we only add it to the equation.

Is the steering tight and shocks good? It never shakes violently after hitting a bump, is purely based on wheel speed? It is consistent, not intermittent?

it is constant and the steering is tight and the shocks are good

How did you check the front diff bearings? Any bearing that only bothers at speed may be impossible to isolate without advanced testing.

i looked for scoring pitting and turned them to see if they had hard spots

1987 Jeep Wrangler Fuel System Stalling When accelerating Always

Replaced fuel filter, cleaned carb, changed air filter, added Heet to tank and my Wrangler still studders, stalls and backfires under acceleration. It will idle fine and you can rev it up when sitting still just fine. Occasionally it will clear up and accelerate fine for a few minutes, but then it goes back to same routine. Could it be the fuel pump, I have taken off the lines and gas comes out when you turn over the vehicle but I'm not sure if it is the right pressure.

It could be your fuel pump, you need about 5psi. You could have an ignition problem, they will cause backfiring under acceration also.

I replaced the rotor and distributer cap. No help.. So what kind of ignition problem are we talking about here?

Weak coil, bad pickup, bad wires.

Sorry, I can get this same kind of information from my Chiltons Manual. I thought you guys would have a more detailed evaluation of what could be going on instead of answers like "Weak coil, bad pickup, bad wires."

Use a ST-125 spark tester on 2 or more spark plug wires to see if you have strong spark at the end of the wires. If that is OK, most likely the ignition system is OK.

If I were working on this Jeep, I would drive it with an oscilloscope connected to the oxygen sensor to help determine if the fuel is insufficient. What pressure are you getting from the fuel pump?

If these things are OK, you may need a carburetor rebuild.

Is there any way this could be a head or head gasket problem? Should I have a compression check done?

You will usually get other symptoms with low compression, but a compression test will tell you the truth about the engine mechanicals.