Lincoln Continental

2002 Lincoln Continental Drive Train / Driveline   

At low speeds the transmission feels like it is looking for what gear to be in , and it jerks. At normal speeds, the problem does not appear. Please advise. beique@grandecom.net

Hi, Sometimes a behaviour believed caused by the transmission is found to be the engine performance. Could this be the case here?

Does the speedometer provide a steady reading when the condition is present?

I don't know of much you can do yourself to diagnose the transmission. How many miles on this car? Is the transmission due for a service? Fluid level correct when warmed up?

If you are confident the engine is fine I recommend a road test with a transmission technician with a scanner connected for a good evaluation of what is going on.

Any trouble being able to duplicate the condition? If the trouble doesn't happen when the technician is present it will pass every test he has.

Roger

2000 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

The ‘check ride control’ display has been popping up for a month or so. until now the back end would ride low for a while but then the shocks would pump back up. The other day it bottomed out. My brother in law is a GM mechanic, he crawled underneath and could not see anything wrong so he had me try disconnecting the battery to ‘reset’ the computer and that worked, the shocks pumped up even though the ‘ride control’ display still showed up. So for the last three days the display shows up after putting the car in drive and the shocks have been ‘lowering’ and are now bottomed out. Unfortunately going through the ‘reset’ procedure is not working. anything that i can do? thank you.

Are you confident the system switch in the trunk is on?

If so, there is likely an air leak in the system. It may be a line, a fitting, or a shock air bladder. You will need professional help.

Roger

i did not know there was a system switch in the trunk! where is it please......and thanks for your response.

Look on the side wall of the trunk. Could be either side. It's easily seen.

The switch I'm thinking of is the one a mechanic will flip before we raise the car on a lift. If we don't, the air suspension goes flat and takes a long time to recover.

Roger

Roger the system switch was on. any chance that it could be that circuit board 'censor' wrapped in an 'accordion' rubber boot? thanks again.

You said earlier that the car would ride low and after awile it would pump back up. I'm thinking there is an air leak.

Sure, a sensor could be the cause but not as likely as an air leak on this car.

Roger

gottcha Roger. since the sensor was relatively easy to remove (by my son not me) i am going to see if i can get it tested at my dealer or somewhere else, mostly because if it is that, i can replace it myself (my son not me) as opposed to seeking the professional service that you are so correct about that i unfortunately cannot currently afford. once more, thank you very much Roger for your professional and timely help. i will complete the survey as most satisfied with your services.

Are you ready to close the question? If so, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

2000 Lincoln Continental Engine   

just had a rebuilt transmission put in the car new front brakes 2 new pressure hoses for power steering which was leaking the CHECK ENGINE light comes on and does not go off. had mechanic put new module in but light still comes on car is working perfectly but he says I have an air leak somewhere what is wrong?

Hi, An air leak? What system, please?

Did you receive the diagnostic code number causing the light to come on? What is the code?

Roger

i dont know what the code is! should I get it from the ford dealer and give it to the mechanic?

he cked for leaks said there is an air leak causing the light to come on he says it is coming from the middle of the engine VORTEC V8 HE USES A DRS STETHOSCOPE TO LISTEN FOR LEAKS

Someone needs to connect a code reader and write down the number.

You said the car runs fine. Call one of your local national chain auto parts stores and ask if they read the check engine light codes and if there is a charge for this event. One of them will do it for free we just need to know where to go.

Obtain the codes and lets think about what the code tells us first and an air leak may or may not be a factor.

Roger

HE SAID IT COULD BE A VACUUM LEAK FOUND ONE AND FIXED IT BEFORE WHAT DO YOU THINK?

A vacuum leak found with stethoscope and then repaired sounds reasonable enough. And the code set could have been the result of the leak. That's all good but the light won't turn itself off for quite sometime. It can take up to 50 cycles of the key that result in the engine starting and no reoccurance of the same problem.

If not convenient to have the codes read you can clear them by disconnecting the car battery for a few minutes and then reconnecting it.

Should the check engine light come back on while the engine is running there is yet a problem present.

Roger

tried that light takes about 1 or 2 days to come back but does! must have another vacuum leak somewhere

Please have the codes read so we can use the right diagnostic path for a repair.

Roger

1997 Lincoln Continental Interior Components   

stereo system wiring diagram

I'm trying to replace regular stereo system (AM-FM-Cassette) with modern CD player but it seems stereo wiring adapter I bought for such replaysment has incorrect pin layout. I need car stereo wiring diagrams to make correct connection.

Give me an email address and I should be able to supply you with the diagram.

My email: [redacted]
Thank you!

I did not think that it would go well on this page but it should all be there .
I shall not have to send it to your email after-all
I hope this helps1994 Lincoln Continental Stereo Information
Constant 12V+ Green/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Yellow/Black
Ground Red
Illumination Blue/Brown
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Orange/Blue
Antenna Right Rear
Front Speakers 3 1/2" Dash
Left Front (+) Orange/Green
Left Front (-) Black/White
Right Front (+) White/Green
Right Front (-) Black/White
Rear Speakers 6" x 9" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) Pink/Green
Left Rear (-) Blue/Orange
Right Rear (+) Pink/Blue
Right Rear (-) Green/Orange

I appollogise this is the correct one for your car a 1997
Constant 12V+ Green/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Yellow/Black
Ground Red
Illumination Blue/Brown
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Orange/Blue
Antenna Rear Window
Front Speakers 6" x 8" Doors
Left Front (+) Orange/Light Green
Left Front (-) Light Blue/White
Right Front (+) White/Light Green
Right Front (-) Dark Green/Orange
Rear Speakers 6" x 8" Rear Doors
Left Rear (+) Gray/Light Blue
Left Rear (-) Tan/Yellow
Right Rear (+) Orange/Red
Right Rear (-) Brown/Pink

Actually my car has the following wiring:

8 pin socket:

- Green/Brown (Constant +12V)
- Black
- Black/Red (Switched +12V)
- Black/White
- Grey/Red
- Black/Green
- N/A
- Red/Yellow


16 pin socket:

- Black/White - Brown/Green
- Grey - White/Red
- Black - N/A
- Tan/Black - Blue/Red
- Green/Black - N/A
- N/A - N/A
- N/A - N/A
- Tan/Orange - Pink/Blue

So wiring diagram of my car completely differs from yours. May be you could provide circuit name by pin number/position? I cannot figure out. It makes me crasy especially taking in account I'm MSEE. Have you electrical diagram of car stereo external circuits?
Thank you a lot.

(orientation: here are pin/wire positions when you see at front of non wire side of sockets; socket's keys are on the left)

I will check a different year

The wire color code you gave me, are they colors that are coming off of your wiring harness in the car or off of back of the radio that you are installing?

They coming off of back of the control panel I'm going to replace. I've already got wiring diagram for stereo system and figured out that control panel cannot be immediately replaced with regular FM/CD player. Thanks to public library. Could you at least point me where is harness (remote chassis unit) located? Thanks.

There is an adaptor kit that can be purchased to put in a new unit.
You want to location of which remote component? The radio connector

Of course, I've purchased such adaptor kit first for my car model, this was the start of my story, but ... please read my question from very beginning. Car stereo wiring adaptor (despite of incorrect pin layout and not exactly fitting plug type) should be at least of 10 feet length to connect CD player to rear chassis unit located right under package tray or I'll be forced to install CD player into car trunk. Funny! Finally I've figured out my problem on my own. I asked for electrical diagram ... didnt get from you because you're not allowed to send it by email. Eventually I found by myself.

What's your real help I paid for???

you can request a refund just email mark at allparts

1996 Lincoln Continental Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When driving When warm 

last summer (very hot day)car had no gears foward or reverse until it cooled then it was driveable drove it to shop to have fluid changed summer of 2003. now jan 04 trans slips on steep incline until rpm goes above 3000 whats the deal? thankyou in advance for your help Greg

Most common failure of a transmission that requires a rebuild is when they fail 'hot'.
You're lucky the fluid change worked!

For the current problem there is TSB's that likely apply. Email me

[redacted]

need more info what tsb how to correct problem

Check your email.

1996 Lincoln Continental Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm 

I have a 96 continental with 110000 miles, body & interior in excellent condition and well maintained. About 4 months ago, the service engine light started going on, but not always. Shortly after that the ABS light started going on, but again, not always. I took it to the dealer, they scanned it, determined it was an ABS module, and my mechanic put one in. This solved the problem for about a week. These problems have been recurring off and on for the last couple months. My mechanic scanned it two more times, same readout. Now on my display panel, I get a Distance Data error message, a Fuel Flow error message, and a Check Traction control message. These don't come on immediately, perhaps after 5-10 minutes of driving. When the Distance data error message comes on, I sometimes lose my power steering. Lincoln wants me to take it back to the dealer yet again for another $200-300 scan charge that may or may not solve my problem, and of course I'm reluctant to do so. Can you folks perhaps give me another opinion on what may be causing my frustration? THANK YOU! Dave

it sounds like you may have a computer problem before taking it back for a readout you can start your own readouts ,purchase a diagnostic from the auto parts store and keep a check on the codes until it is complete
at the milage you have on the xcar it is likely that your electronic componets and sensors are going out
it will be a process of elimination to deal with the problem or a hit and miss.
even the dealerships go through this until they hit the right part because some componets will send signals that are not clear as day and lead the tech toward another location to diagnose
disconect you pos bat post for about 3 min and reconnect it to reset the idiot lights and see what happens from there.
I will check the messages you have and get back with you later this evening

1996 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

1996 continential sets to low to the ground and rides rough , where is the compressor and relay ?

The compressor is under the right rear fender. You should be able to lay under the passenger rear section of the car and look up and see it. You should be able to find the relay under the hood in the fuse box or look in the owners manual.

1996 Lincoln Continental Engine   

severe presure oil leak that apears to be coming from between the AC compressor and block

In that case I would look for a leaking valve cover gasket that might be dripping oil on to that spot, or Worn and leaking timing cover gasket, or loose cylinder head or improper head bolt torque, or blown head gasket. All can be in that area its just a matter tracing the leak back.
Heavychevy

it apears to me that the oil filter adapter ia also part of the stand off for the AC compressor and the whole thing is also under the front motor mount just wanna be sure cause it looks like a bitch of a job to even start

are you familiar with this particular problem?

Yeah in a way most of I come accros is simple oil gasket needs tighting or the oil pressure sensor gasket is bad Its near by. just gonna have to track it back.

sorry I meant oil filter needs tighting not oil gasket

the oil filter is dry as a bone and so is the sender
sorry I'd realy like to talk to somone that is very familiar with this model

I have asked this question on a similar site and all I got was generic answers! I worked as a pro mechanic for years before becoming a machinist full time so if it was a slam dunk I wouldnt be here thanks for the try

I may be answering my own questions no the leak is not coming from the valve cover or the timing cover or the front seal so it has to be coming from the oilfilter adapter /AC compressor stand off I'd just like to know what trouble I might be getting into to replace the gasket?

a diagram of the area would be nice

What engine do you have first of all so we know we are looking at the same product?
How many mile are on it?
Describe the leak in more detail, is it slow or fast?
does it get worse when accellerating or is it consistent throughout?
Have you alredy tried cleaning the area to see if there are any cracks maybe a freeze out plug or possibly at what level it begins?

4.6 L dohc you cant see any oil above the area to speak of just mist thats blown up there the leak is very fast losing about 3 quarts a week now and we dont drive much wouldnt dare take off down the highway definatly a pressure leak

110000 miles its an oil leak

if you were familiar with the car you would know that its verry hard to see anything down there lol

Oh btw the 4.6l dohc is the only engine offered in this model

Do you have an email adress that I can send you some information at?

You know I was just browsing through this info on your car and it is pretty simple .
Since you are an experienced mechanic, I would not want to patronize you with this information.
It is a small operation, as soon as you remove the a/c compressor the bracket will be exposed so that you can see where the seep is comming from and a matter of replacing the gasket for the bracket

you dont have to remove the motor mount and the whole assembly to insure the gasket faces are clean etc?

its a tough area to get to without a lift all I have is ramps at the house

[redacted]

finaly some satisfaction I have been reasearching this for 2 weeks either the weather has been bad or I didnt have time to mess with it but after looking at it some more this evening it dont look too bad

1995 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

My air ride will not pump up. It is as low as possible at all 4 wheels. The compressor turns on when the car is started and runs for approx 90 seconds. It then shuts off and a check ride control message appears on the dash. The car does not raise at all during this time. I was told that it could be the solenoid, but not sure. Any ideas? Also, if it is the solenoid, where is it and how hard is it to change? Also, any way to test the compressor or the selenoid? thanks

Since the compressor runs, the wiring and sensors are OK. The most common problem is an air leak, or a weak pump. The pump should be able to output over 100psi. You can disconnect the dryer and rig up a air pressure test to measure what the compressor is putting out. If that is OK, let the compressor run while hooked up properly and look for air leaks. Use your ears, eyes and a bottle of windex to pinpoint the problem.

Air solenoids can go bad, but it takes a good imagination to believe all 4 would go bad the same time.

To test the integrity of the system and solenoids, you can blow 100psi into the air dryer when the compressor is running and the car should pick up if the leaks are not too bad.

1994 Lincoln Continental Engine Stalling When driving When warm 

after driving and engine is warm (1 hour or more) at hwy speeds (55 to 75mph) engines cuts out completely. Everything Lights up on dash, have to coast to side of road. Plenty of power to crank wont start. Wait about 10 minutes will start and run. Proceed and engine will die again. Wait another 10 min apx. and drive for another hour.

Hello, It sounds as if your car is running out of gas due to a fuel supply restriction. There are filters inside and outside the fuel tank.

The filter inside the fuel tank on the fuel pick-up line for the fuel pump is a nylon mesh screen shaped like a test tube. If this filter is dirty enough your fuel pump will suck it flat and flow will be blocked. The engine dies. The nylon filter "opens" back up (no more pump suction is present) and allows fuel flow until the pump sucks it flat again. The engine dies again. Cycle repeats.

If changing the fuel filter outside the fuel tank doesn't help and fuel pressure is good while the engine runs, the filter in the tank is suspect.

If fuel pressure is low, the pump and pick-up filter can be changed at the same time the tank is removed for access to the pump. Upon inspection a restricted pick-up filter could be all you need. But, most owners opt for a new pump to ensure not having to drop the fuel tank again and duplicate labor. This gets you the best warranty too but is subject to a honest diagnosis/recommendation.

If you aren't prepared to buy a pump and relative labor, don't drop the fuel tank on the gamble only the pick-up filter is needed. You'll set yourself up for grief if you lose the "bet".

Roger

I have examined the fuel system and all appears ok.In discussing with others they suggest ignition module or coil.Could this be possible and if so I cannot find the module on the engine. It is not attached to the distributor as other ford products although there is a place for it on the distributor. where would the module be if any?

I'm sorry for the delay. My 9:00am doctors appointment lasted until after 3pm and messed up my whole day.

I don't have the wiring schematic for your car's ignition system. I'll get one tomorrow and offer what I find. What engine do you have please?

When the car quits can you/have you checked for spark? I wonder with the engine stopping suddenly after an hour of running how it can cool for 10 minutes and "fix" itself. (If heat is failing an electronic part.) A repeat would surely happen sooner as the engine is at operating temp. I won't jump to conclusions. I'll help you investigate.

Roger

roger
my engine is a 3.8 liter V6. Mfg aug 1994. No, I did not check for spark when engine died as I was in xway traffic and had hard time getting over. Had plenty of power to crank (battery)but not sure if produced spark. Could this be a module problem? After thinking it over though I am leaning to fuel pump too but I am interested what you find in schematic. I may just have to replace fuel pump. Is there any other fuel filters other than in tank, and on underbody rail? Hope you feel better. Await your reply. Thanks

Okay, 3.8L. I'll look into it. There are no fuel filters in the system, just the two we talked about. Yes, it could be a module...

It would be great if you could check for spark and fuel pressure when the condition is present. It would determine our repair path by system and minimize cost.

Thanks for your expressed concern for my health. Long story!

Roger

The schematic shows the module to be on the right side of the firewall.

Do you have a FAX number? I could send you copies of what I've located.

Roger

roger
My fax number is [redacted] . Then reply and I will authorize payment. I feel I got more than my moneys worth. Thanks for putting on your thinking cap and getting the schematic. Tom

Please look over what I have sent to you and let me know if that will give you the edge you need. If you need something further, just ask.

Roger

1994 Lincoln Continental Engine  When driving No pattern

oil pressure problems, gauge goes up and down

Hello, What engine do you have, please? How many miles on this engine? Have you installed a test gauge to verify pressure fluxuation?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving Always

when I initially start my 1994 Lincoln Continental there is a motor which activates and run intermitently while driving, I was told by a service tech that I had a "bad" air bag motor, which needs to be replaced. This vehicle has a ride control system. I this information correct? and how can I locate this item on my car?

Hi;
The motor running intermitently means that it is adjusting and doing it's job. At the rear of the car check to make sure none of the air lines are leaking going to the shocks. You can do this by activating the system. words turn the car on and then get a squirt bottle with some soap and water and spray around the lines. If you see any bubbles this indicates a leak at that area. Good Luck Les.

The motor sound as if it's grinding and the front passenger side sits lower the the front driver's side as well. In other words the vehicle isn't properly level.

Hi;
Sounds like that side is leaking. Try to find the leak. The motor grinding might be beacuse it is trying to keep up with it and causing it to overheat. Thanks Les.

where can I locate this motor in order to check for leakage, and what is the common industry name for this part?

Hi again;
The motor should be located either under the vehicle at the frame or in the engine compartment at either fender well. Sorry to advice you, but I have not found any aftermarket parts for them. It is a dealer Item. Thanks Les.

1994 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens always Always

The rear suspension air bags are bad and want to replace them with a shock, sring conversion kit. I have never done this before, so how do I remove the old air bag struts and install the conversion kit. Thanks, AL

That can easily be done by removing the air shocks and replacing them a regular conversion kit has all you need to make the changover
just make sure you close off the airlines to the rear of the car or disconnect the power
to the air pump in the engine compartment

Hello
Were you able to take care of that problem?
did and were you able to use my advise?
do you still need more info?
I would like to know the outcome
thanks macconeck

Hello
Were you able to take care of that problem? and were you able to use my advise?
do you still need more info?
I would like to know the outcome
thanks macconeck

1994 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Leaking Happens always No pattern

the rear end of my 1994 Lincoln Continental leaks down constantly. Sometimes it will stay up for several hours.

Hello, Please tell me what sort of help you are seeking? Will you be making the repairs? Would you like some things to check/test for the cause of the leakdown to see if you need an in shop repair somewhere?

Roger

I guess I really did not supply enough information. My husband would like to make the repair, he has been told that you could replace the air suspension with struts from a Ford Tarus. Is this true and where would he find them? Also, how do you disengage the air suspension system if you install the struts? If you would not suggest struts from a Ford Tarus what would you suggest? We would really like to do away with the air system.

In Oklahoma City an add in the paper states "All Lincoln Air-Suspensions. Call for Specials [redacted] , [redacted] Muffler King."

I'm not familiar with Tarus struts being a suitable substitute for your car. I will research it for you here locally. Muffler King is a National Chain Store franchise. Are they in your area?

Disengaging your system if you convert could be as simple as flipping a switch or pulling a fuse. Do you have a switch inside the trunk to turn off the system prior to raising the car on a lift so the bags won't go flat? I had forgotten to do this on a car I raised on a lift and the suspension was flat when I let the car down. It took forever for it to pump back to correct curb height.

I'll ask around for some more info for you,

Roger

Thanks, I will wait to see what you find out.

I spoke with the service advisor at our local Lincoln dealer.

They know that Taurus struts have been used to retire the air system on the Continental. It's not very cost friendly as rear springs have to be added, four struts, alignment, plus labor, easily exceeds $1000.

You are wanting to keep your costs down and the conversion to Taurus struts won't do that.

Fixing your present system requires 3 levels of diagnostics to isolate the fault and determine repair in the least time. Correct procedure consists of DRIVE CYCLE DIAGNOSTICS, SERVICE BAY DIAGNOSTICS, and SPRING FILL DIAGNOSTICS. A Rotundra Super Star II ([redacted] 1-A) tester must be used to diagnose the system. A Rotundra SUPER STAR ([redacted] 9) tester will not work.

You are at a cross-road. Decide if you want to keep the car and invest in it, or sell/trade it. It is that painfully blunt.

Surely you will be charged a diagnostic fee to determine all that is needed for an informed decision. If you aren't prepared to invest (say.. a thousand bucks in this car) then I'd not wait until it gets worse and won't air up at all.

Thoughts?

Roger

I will wait to hear back from you about the struts. I have looked at some information on the internet at a site called Strut Masters. They have a complete set of struts for around $500.00, then you have to install them yourself or have a mechnic do it. We really did not want to spend a lot of money due to the age of the car.

I'll call some people in my area today and see what they will offer for a suggestion.

Roger

1994 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Won't Start Happens always Always

i have a 94 coninental and my front 2 air bags just stop working... first thing i thought was compressor or the bags but the compressor is working and the back airbags work so im curious as to what it may be... is it possible for both of the front airbags to go out at the same time? would replacing those fix it or is it something deeper then that? thanks

It is quite possible that the lines that run from your compressor to the bags are leaking or the sensors on the bags themselfs are recieving or sending a bad code. As far as the lines go, there are small compresion rings on the end of the line that feeds into both the compresor and air bags. These need to be checked. One way is to apply soapy water at these juctures to see if there is any air leakage. If there are any bubbles from any of them, the leak needs to be fixed before continuing. There is an air bag service kit that contains the compression rings availabe as a dealer only item. If the problem lies within the sensors, this is a very complex repair to diagnosis. If a code is present, a very detailed flow chart must be followed to detect. The test actually makes the vehicle dance much like some of these vehicles that are modified with hydralics. A good qualified tech would be in need for this type of condition. than that, Turn the air switch off that is located in the trunck of the car at one of the inner quarter side panels(refer to your owners manual for exact location) and raise the front of the vehicle. Check each air bag for cracking or tears. If one is loosing air from these conditions, it can cause the whole front end to fail.
Good Luck,
Paul

yea i actually did every thing you just said lol... right after i sent in the quetion i jacked it up and it looks like the left front is leaking its not holding any air at all the right is fine though and i had to go to work so i turned off air ride so the compressor wouldnt blow im pretty worried about tire rub though.. tommorow im going to try that soapy water test and if thats not it ill go to the junkyard by my house i believe they got a car the same as mine there and try to salvage the left front strut for a temporary fix.. thanks anyway though

My only word of advise is, in my many years of being in the automotive industry is to use extreme caution when dealing with salvage parts especialy when it pertains to suspension components such as this. Get a price from your local parts houses before you go shopping the junkyard. Cars are there for a reason and the extra price you may pay for a new part compaired to used may justify the means.Glad to be of some assitance to you and good luck on the rest of it.
Paul

hey i found out that the airbag and the hose are leaking its leaking from where the hose connects to the solenoid... is there a way to fix the connection or does the whole hose or just connection have to be replaced... also when the airbag is first filling up the airbag leaks but once filled the crack closes itself and the hose doesnt leak too bad do you think it is safe for the compressor to be running like this or should i keep the air ride turned off?

Again, there is an O-ring and collar kit available for the hose line connection from the dealer. If the line leaks anywhere else along the line, you can splice it with a very snug fitting vaccum hose. You may have to use the soapy water to get the vaccum hose over the line. Wait for this to dry before testing the system again. As far as keeping the air ride off, look at it this way, if you run the air conditioner in your house with the doors and windows open, whats'it going to do? Yeah, keeping the ride switch off will avoid the compressor from a constant run, but you need to also keep in mind the possible wear and tear to the tires from the rubbing and alignment by having the system in a nonfuctional mode. In my opinion, the cost of fixing either of the above problems may equate to about the same dollar amount now, but buying tires every time one gets cut or worn because of cassel problem would quickly point me to fixing problem at hand.
Good Luck,
Paul

1994 Lincoln Continental Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

When in the automatic mode, the circulating fan turns off when the passenger compartment reaches the preset temperature rather than slowing down like it should. In the manual mode the fan will only run on high speed.

Check for a fan motor resistor.It may not pick up the low voltage read.
Good Luck,
Paul

1994 Lincoln Continental Engine   

check engine light keeps coming on computer read left back lean oxegen sen replaced both replaced erg egr control purge vave map sen tenp gauge hose to canister replaced everthing i can think of when it starts missing i yust un hook egr valve and block line

Left rear 02 sensor could mean faulty cat that side or faulty new 02 sensor.

whats is a cat

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

Hello,

"Left rear 02 sensor could mean faulty cat that side or faulty new 02 sensor."

Please provide more details. What is a cat?

Thanks

whatsis a cat

another machanic said the cat whats that do you think engine computer could be bad

Also, I replaced the o2 sensor 3 times.

catalytic converter (cat) is an emission device in the exhaust, just downstream of the engine. It helps vlean up the unburnt gasses that leave the engine. An emission device, they sometimes fail. Having an O2 sensor in front of the cat and the rear of cat, is a way for the computer to self diagnose a bad cat.It samples the exhaust before and after.

that would make the check engine come on after warm up and misshow many o2 sensors on that 1994 lincoln i only found 2 could engine computer cause light to come on after its been reset is there any way to check cat converter

never got a answer from my last 2 questions yet

When it starts missing unhooking the egr valves eliminates the problem?

Are you disconnecting the vacuum line or actual valve and plugging the port back to the intake?

pluging egr vaccum line have put 2egr vales on since could computer be bad

It is possible, but requires a scan tool to confirm.

Are you getting any debri that is causing the egr valve to stick open?

Did the mechanic who thought the catalytic converter was bad actually look at the car?

changed egr twice and it makes no differance code keep comeing up left bank lean changed fuel reg both o2 sen map purge val only thing i ever found wrong was egr temp sensor was burnt up could engine computer be bad

Have you checked the egr port back to the engine? Make sure there is not any blockage.

IT LOOKS CLEAN WHAT MADE THE EGR PREASURE FEEDBACK SESOR BURN UP IT HOOKS ON TO EGR AND HAS A SHORT RUBBER HOSE AND A PLUG IN

geter done how do you fix that you bunch of dummies

Sorry, I missed you reply.

Exhaust restriction (catalytic converter) can cause the egr valve to get to hot. If your local garage has a 'Temperature Gun' they can read the temperature of the converter to see if this is the problem.

1994 Lincoln Continental Drive Train / Driveline   

I parked the car for one week. The next time I started it up and put in gear(drive)I would not pull and acted as if it was still in netural and the same way in any gear I put in. I've checked the shifter cable and leaver on the transaxel and they move an seem to be OK. The Car still sits in the same place in my drive for the last six months.

I assume you checked the fluid level? Start there. If that is good (engine warm, running in park), try removing a transmission line at the radiator. There should be a good flow of fluid when the engine is started (30seconds/qt). If there is no flow, start with replacing the filter and fluid. If still no flow, you may have a bad pump, requiring major work.

If you have good flow, but no action from the transmission, we will look at the linkage. First, with the car off and in park, see if it can be pushed forward and backwards. It should move less than 3 inches. Next put in in neutral (engine off)and try the same thing. It should move freely. If these tests pass, the linkages are OK. Suspect a failed transmission.

1994 Lincoln Continental Brake System   

The right rear brakes drag all the time. They get hot and smell burnt. I've replace rubber line and caliper, pads and rotor. No change. What could be wrong?

Hello,

Are the caliper slides free? Clean, lubrite or replace as necessary.

Was one pad or both wearing prematurely because of this?

Make sure the parking brake function is not applying the brake.

Parking brake not under tension. Caliper had new pads installed thursday by a mechanic. -- rt rear brake still dragged. Could brakeline split near master cylinder be involved?

When the brakes are applying when they shouldn't be, the lines/connectors need to cracked slightly to determine at which point fluid is not flowing back to the master cylinder. This would be best left to a mechanic, as the fluid gets very hot and may be under a lot of pressure.

1993 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When stopped Always

my 93 kincoln ride control compressor has for about 2 months now turns itself on when the vehicle is shut off "parked" the air compressor will kick on by itself. usualy within 1-2 min. after I shut it off. it will continue to run till the front air bags are full. I am afraid that it will blow out the air bags. 3 dealers Ive talked with don't have a clue. might it be the control swithch or module?? in the mean time I have pulled the plug on it.

If you havent yet done so,check for leaks from the compressor lines out to the air bags and also the sensors at the air bags and the bags themselves.Use a soap solution in a spray bottle and spray these areas to check for any bubbles.The bags themselves have a tendecy to develope small cracks in them that will leak at full expansion and kind of self seal when they deplete so check when they are fully loaded.The lines that run from the compressor to the sensors have a small brass coller and O ring.These too are known to leak.A repair kit is available through a dealer.The sensor itself could be the culprit.I don't understand why 3 dealers were unable to locate your problem.There is a whole section of ride control concerns in the factory manuals that explains by hitching a scanner to the syestem,if followed correctly,they can make the vehicle "dance" much like a car with hydralics.They may just not wish to spend the time or don't have the techs qualified enough to to do these dianostics.As far as blowing out an air bag,I'd be more concerned about burning up a compresor due to an errant leak.
Good Luck,
Paul

1992 Lincoln Continental Electrical / Lighting Systems  When troubleshooting Always

My inst. cluster is mafuctioning. got another one from the bone yard ...everything works except the message center lights. tried changing the circuit ribbon , light bulbs and the circuit card . you can hear the beeps from the center cycling though its diagnostics but no light! what can i do or where can I find a new one ? I hear that they were discontinued. and my ford dealer cant get any. help!
RB

The LED display itself sounds at fault.You say you hear the cycling beeps but no display.The printed circut sounds operable but I believe the display head is seperate.Remove the cluster and check to see if diplay is removeable and swap out with the old one for testing.Also use a good eletrical contact cleaner if doing so.
Good Luck,
Paul

did that . there is a plastic card with 2 mini lamps that connect to it. these lights provide the light needed to view the display. I swaped out the lights and the card and no light! it used to light up on the old one even though the info was all scrambled. now nothing on the old one or the newer one. the connectors are fine ..i was very careful taking out and replacing... so now where do i look?...also checked the 20amp fuse as well.

O.K.,yes most all interior parts are discontinued and you have gone the used route.Prior tips have already been tried.At this point,if I were to be doing a "hands-on"repair,a DVOM and a very detailed electrical schem would be needed to find why the display is recieving an errant feed or no feed at all.The printed circut to display board and maybe a possible relay need to be tracked for continuity.You may be able to find some schems in a repair manual but the more detailed are mostly found in a factory manual.You may also check with your dealer one more time.I know in the years I spent with a dealership,with a little coaxing,I could get my parts man to do a "national"search for parts deemed obsolite.Just because their computer automaticaly pulls up a discontinued part in the data base,it dosent mean that some other dealer in the country may not have the part sitting on their shelf.When our dealership moved to a new facility,I could of made a haul on all the old parts(steering gear '66 Mustang,etc.)on EBay if they would of let me have access to them.Its worth the try.
Good Luck,
Paul

1992 Lincoln Continental Fuel System   

I am looking for the fuel pump relay, I am unable to find it. This car has a v-6 engine and fuel injection.

This is controlled by the ICRM (controls a few things). If the pump is not working have you checked the intertia switch? What problem are you having?

Copy and paste the above link into your address bar.

1992 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Front air bags rise and lower for unknown reasons. Dealership said I need left side leveling sensor. I installed the sensor. Prior to jacking front left tire I flipped the air ride switch in the trunk. I went for a test ride the air bags were raised when I left shop. While taking a 1 minute drive the air bags lowered and never came back up. I forgot to flip the switch in the trunk but remember that switch in trunk is

Usually when the switch is not turned off, the best recourse is to repeatedly drive the car, applying the brakes and alternatly applying the gas, activates and reactivates the system.That hopefully resets it.There are relays which sometimes fail, but that would require a wiring schematic and a volt/ohm meter to test.

At this time I flipped the air ride control switch in the trunk, and drove around going forward and backwards. slamming on the brake while going forward and reverse, I heard some strange clicking coming from the trunk area. At this time the air ride bags are up. Question when I installed the new left side leveling sensor I noticed a screw with some adjustment marks on the back on value, do I need to adjust the screw to get the equal nheight of the front right air bag?

I am going to drive the car around tomorrow and take measurements from bottom edge of rim to the bottom of wheel well. At this time the left front air bag is one inch lower than the right front air bag. I noticed a adjustment screw on the back of the new leveling sensor valve that I installed two days earlier. Will readjusting this screw raise or lower the air bag to get equally matched height on front air bags? I am sorry that I am make communication difficult.

The adjustment screw is a preliminary adjustment...that you could try.

1991 Lincoln Continental Electrical / Lighting Systems   

"CHECK DCL" light keeps comming on causing dash gagues to go haywire. No owners mannuel. How do I fix this? Is there a web page image for fuse box layout? Fuse box says "SEE OWNERS MANNUEL".

DCL means Data Control Logger, which is Fords big word for a computer that receives fault codes and stores them.
Any shop that has a plug in scanner can read the codes and let you know what is the cause.
When you have a car with several miles of wiring, you might want to attemp yourself.
If you do, a Haynes Manual ($15-20)would be a good investment.
Owners manuals are no longer avail from dealer, but are at Autowreckers and on EBay.

1990 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

My drive control warning light and beep has been displaying recently. When not displaying "warning," all suspension airs and motor are functioning properly. When I shut ignition, it resets itself...and at restart functions perfectly again as driving. Appears that problem first occured when driving over very bumpy roadway--much vibration. The motor appears to be O.K.

"RIDE CONTROL"--not drive control

Hi;
Sounds like you got a bad connection or ground. The best way to go about fixing the problem is to get you a good a schematic. Good Luck Les.

1990 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

THanks for this site first of all, I have this wonderful car and one week ago the front end was down and 3 days ago it took 5 min to pump up the front end, ((back end is aired up). TOday I had to go to the airport 50 miles away and the front would not pump up, so I drove it (had to) it was a bad ride. So when I got back into the car I started it and opened the hood and taped on the pump that was already running but the front still was not moving, so I taped on it with a small hammer (I did say tap and i mean tap) the front came up. BUT as I drove it home (after the airport) with in 5 miles on the 50 mile trip the front fell to the ground again.
If the back is OK and the front is acting this way what do you think my issue is, When I got home the pump was not running and I taped again and nothing. I do car work, I can force the pump to run but as stated before the front would not come up.
BY the way since the last 2 years I have been hearing the "ding ding ding" ride control sensor going off every so offten but the system still seems to work. I love my car..

Alan

from the sound of your problem your systen has to be bleeding from some point or another.
a air leak where it is seeping out slowly or randomly
you could need new air shocks or a line replaced
hope this helps

Thankyou,
1. So if it seeps down, and that it does sometime, (no always) do you have another suggestion.
2. When I start the car I have to or seems to need me to rock the car to get the front to pump up and after 10 min it deflates again, and in order to get the pump to repump you have to turn the car off and restart it. If this a correct function.
3. On the left side front (drivers) I had to use tye straps to hold (what appears to be a sensor (gray OEM connector looking on top of the boot) is this OK or causing the beep sensor to go off. I have digital photo of it, it is hard to get to.
4. thanks and do I owe you more for this infomation, I am out of work for 6 months now and just have to do it on my own.

Alan

no you won't owe me I will continue to assist you until you get this solved

now back to your question if you have to rock the car to get it pumped up then your shocks are either not getting the pressue needed or they are getting stuck, my guess is it is pressure related
the only way to do a pressure test on the shocks is to pump them up and cap off the end and give them time to bleed

How can I pump the shocks? Are you meaning pump up each air shock bag and see if it leaks? I can build a pump to do this but how do I get into the canister where the 4 hoses attach to the air pump, I see the one nut, can I twist to remove the black distribution tank to get to one shock at a time?

there would be a bleeder valve somewhere on the hose coming from the shock or the shock itself

I could not find a bleader valve but I have a more needed question if you know. The drivers side airbag is leaking My car is a 1990 and I found a 1004 with what seems to be exact strut. Do you know for sure if they will exchange.

Alan

the best way to check and see if that strut is the same part would be to call an auto wrecking yard and ask them to cross reference the part number
They have a reference book with all the matching parts
As far as your air bag is concerned I would suggest you go straight to the dealer with that problem I would trust no one else on that,one day your life may depend on it

1990 Lincoln Continental Fuel System   

During hot weather, after the car has been run and warm, it has a hard time starting. It acts exactly like it is vapor locking. Now during the colder season I am getting check engine codes after driving it until warm. I checked the code and it came back as oxygen sensor continuous leak, does not switch. Do you think it is a weak fuel pump? Or maybe a fuel regulator? I have replaced the fuel filter and have run injector cleaner through a tank of gas with no help.

Thanks

I would definatly be changing the O2 sensor. It sends signals back to the computer and the computer , in turn sends a signal to the injectors, telling them to open and close. The O2 sensor sends these signals back, several times a second, it is that sensitive. If you have access to a digital voltmeter, you will see the voltage changing rapidly, at the O2 sensor, fom aprox. .3 volt to .8 volt, with the median being.5. If it has a continious leak, it will be getting a bad reading.A very important part of the system, it does wear out.
In my experience, Ford fuel pumps do not get weak, they just quit.

Sorry about the mis-type. The code comes back continuous lean no switching. But I'm sure it results in same recommendation thanks. If you have time---I have been having air ride issues--Am considering whiching to conventional suspension with the conversion kit. Is it possible for me to make the R&R go is it harder than it looks.

Thanks Steve

Same advice re the o2 sensor.
Air rides are a pain. Best crawl under a non air ride Linciln, and take a few digital photos to compare. Probably simple.
'88-92 Crown Victoria might share same suspension, and if it is, you might want to look at a wrecked cop car, as they had better springs and sway bars.

1990 Lincoln Continental Fuel System   

After the car is driven about 10 miles and warmed up I get a check engine light. Last summer when outside temperature was hot and engine was hot with AC running the car had a hard time starting--it acted like it was vapor locking.

Currently I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, oxygen sensor and run injector cleaner through the gas.

I ran codes and it comes up oxygen sensor lean no switching.

Don't know where to check next other than fuel pressure regulator, injector cleaning or some other sensor.

than the coding it runs fine with no misses, the oxygen sensor helped with the gas milage. I am still waiting to see if it starts hard when warmer weather hits--hoping that it was a weak fuel pump.

Thanks Steve

Did the new oxygen sensor help for any period of time?

A lean fuel condition is the most likely cause. This can be caused by low fuel pressure, restricted injectors, OR can be unrelated to actual fuel supply-- as in the case of a vacuum leak. Don't overlook the throttle body gasket and brake booster, in addition to vacuum hoses.

1990 Lincoln Continental Electrical / Lighting Systems   

alternator will not charge battery, if I rev engine it will begin charging, alternator and voltage regulator was tested,both were good, battery is new

Have the alternator tested under load. Some auto parts places and Midas will do a free test of the Charging system. Try getting a 2nd opinion on the test as some alternators test good even if not. Check the Alt connections and ensure the alt is getting voltage from ignition switch when turned on. "I" terminal,Key on 12 volts Key off 0 volts. Under load (lights, heater and ALL acess on) it should be charging between 13.5 volts and 14.5 volts)
Some Fords from that era had problems with the connector plug at the alt, so often that some rebuilt ones come with a new plug and a length of wire.

to the best of my knowledge when the key switch is on, there is no voltage to the alternator or the voltage regulator, on the voltage regulator the 1st terminal is for the light after that is the termial that is always hot, the next terminal should excite the system when the key is on, but there is no voltage there, should the alternaor excite the system or the key switch, if its the key switch please tell me where I should look, the 2 wires that go from the voltage regulator to the alternator tested good with the ohm meter

Test the ignition switch as it appears there is a bad connection between it and the alternator.

1989 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens always 

Both Rear Air Bags Pump Up And Will Not Level. They Fill Up Completely And Do not Realease Air Driving Or Parked. They continue to Hold After a week Parked with suspension turned off. Car was not Jacked up. This occured while driving the car. Can you suggest what to look for and location of controls. Thank's Jim

there is a leveling arm on the rear control arm... make sure it is working properly.. it doesnt sound like it is though... they tend to be the first things to rust under the car... good luck

you asked a question in this forum about your Lincoln... were you satisfied with the answer

1988 Lincoln Continental Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens sometimes When cold

I failed inspection because I was told all four struts are 'bad.' The techinican said they 'bounced up and down and that meant they were bad.' I should have questioned whether the car was on or off, but since I had been getting a warning light for the last couple of months I didn't. The symptoms for the problem I am experiencing are that the air ride light comes on when I hit my brakes very hard or take a bump too quickly. It happens more often if it is cold or if a tire (especially front) has low pressure. The ride before and after the light coming on is fine, which leads me to believe that the problem is intermittent and minor. Might this technician be jumping the gun on four new struts?

Hello, Were you issued a rejection slip? You can contest a rejection. In my state the Hiway Patrol hears arguments and can overturn a rejection if they side with the car owner. They issue instructions to the inspector to issue the sticker without repairs. And without further cost. The inspector must comply. No exceptions. Inspectors that build a history of abuse will lose their license.

You could just have the car inspected somewhere else but why double your cost? It's your call. Do you choose to have the appeal system train this "salesman/mechanic"? He'll have to get over it but he'll gripe anyway.

Roger

It sounds to me like the tech is right on the money aconcerning your struts the simple test is what he did and the car should not bounce at all unles you have hydrolics but all in all you would be putting youself in a unsafe situation driving around with bad stuts
they have a lot to do with why your car is safe going around curves and staying on the road after hitting bumps they alow you the ability to keep control of your car and keep the car balanced for a safe ride
I would definately replace them
from the test he did [which is the only true test I might add]
I side with the tech

Thank you for the response. This car has an air pump that pumps the struts only when the car is on, and deflates the pressure when it is turned off. I tried pushing down on the front bumper when the car was off and it bounced up and down a lot. I tried the same when the car was on and it went down once and came back up, and didn't bounce again. To my knowledge, these struts at $200 apiece don't just go bad, they leak, in which case the air pump would be working a lot harder. But it is not pumping for any extended period of time (only about 10-25 seconds upon startup and occasionally at a stop light). I only have 75000 miles on this car and find it hard to believe that all four struts just went bad when I don't notice any symptoms. In other words, the car still lowers two inches when I turn the car off, just like it is supposed to. Please review the symptoms of failure in my original notice and let me know if this new information affects what you believe is wrong. Thank you again for your time.

I have read and then re-read the responses. It is apparent to me that one of your responders has not worked on your air ride system. I have to add that the air ride does tend to leak at the o rings on the hose connections .. if the bags rupture it is normally really bad. Your system is fine and that original mechanic was looking for some easy money. Good for you. Stand your ground. AL

Thank you for your response, my offer goes to you. I would like to ask quickly if there is any quick way to troubleshoot which O-ring might be causing the problem, or is it just faster and easier to replace them all? Thanks again for your time.

Let the system pump up and get a spray bottle with some soapy water. Spray each connection and look for bubbles. Easy as pie. Let me know. AL

"Let the system pump up and get a spray bottle with some soapy water. Spray each connection and look for bubbles. Easy as pie. Let me know. AL"