Lincoln Mark VIII

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The elctrical system (lights, radio, windows) stay on for about a half hour after I turn the engine off. My battery keeps dying, and I have to jump it constantly. (Battery is less than 1 year old). In November of 2006 I had to have the control module and electrical connector for the power real box replaced. The car has an air suspension system. Could this be a factor ?

This is likely a problem with the control module (GEM). A Ford/Lincoln capable scan tool is required to perform diagnostics. In the mean time, if there is a fuse for the GEM you could try pulling this to keep your battery from dying. You would need to reinstall to drive the vehicle.

Yes, this requires a quick trip to a shop that can scan the computer functions, not much you can do at home. It might not have to be a Ford/ Lincoln dealer, as other shops have that diagnostic capability.

If you remove a battery cable and install a test light between the battery and the cable, it should light up.Then remove and replace the fuses, one at a time.When you have found the offending circuit, the light will go off.You now have eliminated 95% of the problem.A $15 HAYNES shop manual will have an easily readable wiring diagram, that will point you in the right direction.
If it was the compressor for the air ride suspension (IE:leak) you would hear the compressor run when car is off.

Thanks for your help.

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII Heating / Cooling System   

Hello.

I was driving 1997 Mark VIII and smelled an odd, sort of burning smell. Then what appeared to be a smoke, but what acted more like hot vapor began to come out of my defrost vent. The car's temperature gauge remained in the "normal range". When I got home, I checked around and found coolant leaking from about a foot in from the side of the car behind the right front passenger side wheel. I checked the coolant level and it was a gallon low. Then next morning I headed my mechanic. The steam began to come out again from the defrost vent. The temperature gauge quickly went from "cold" to the middle of the range. It stayed there for about 5 miles and then suddenly just raised to HOT. The car stopped running one block from the mechanic. He thinks that it needs a new heater core. He wants to charge me about $1,000. Does the cause of the problem seem reasonable? Is the price to fix it reasonable?

Thank you.

Dennis Muston

YES!, it is the problem, However, I think that might be alittle high of a repair cost. I would call around to some other shops and get estimates... I havent turned wrenches in a couple years but something like this when I was doing it would run about 650-700... SO I feel you can do better then 1000. tony

Thanks for a quick and helpful reply Tony.

Unfortunately, I'd already taken it to a "reputable" mechanic - i.e. we're pretty new to this area and hadn't found *the* mechanic we'll always take our cars to. He was saying that replacing it is a "pain in the ass" because he has to take the entire dashboard and center counsel out, and that it would take about a day and a half of labor even though the part itself is cheap.

Dennis

Being a pain is the truth!!!.. Its not an easy one at all. And, if it makes you feel any better...Quality does come at a cost..
It should run around 4-6 hours, but with we have to remember that our car is not the only one that needs service and time has to spent on other cars too.. good luck!!

Thanks Tony.

Dennis

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII Fuel System   

car usually runs well, but sometimes cranks for a long time before starting. new fuel pump and filter installed. still acts like fuel problem

Hi, How many miles on this one? How old are the spark plugs? Are the plugs gapped correctly? Are all clamps on the air inlet tube fitted and tight? Does the condition happen with engine cold or warmed up? Have you considered flushing the injectors?

Please advise,

Roger

spark plugs are fresh and gapped correctly. car has 123000 mi. on it. does this car have either a check valve in fuel system or a pressure regulator valve?
inlet tubes are in good shape and tight.

There is a check valve intregal to the new fuel pump. There is a fuel pressure regulator for the system as well.

What is your email address please? I'll send you fuel pressure regulator information and pics for replacement of it.

Roger

Roger,
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
my e-mail address is [redacted] .
I'd appreciate the fuel pressure regulator info
by e-mail. I build race car engines based on small block chevys, fords, and chryslers, but don't have alot of info on late model computer driven engines.

Lets see if what I have will help you. I'll send it right now.

Roger

I sent my e-mail address as requested 2 days ago. Still no further responce.
I was supposed to receive info and pictures of the replacement of the regulator and check valve.
no responce!
RICK

Rick, I did indeed send the email and I will gladly send it again. Please check your email filters like spam and junk mail to see if your system kept me out of your in-box.

Roger

I have sent the email you requested again. Hope it works this time.

Roger

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII Fuel System   

Accidentally left ignition on (car not running) for about an hour. Had to recharge the battery to get it to crank but now the car won't start. Plugs are bone dry so I suspect the fuel pump. Made sure the reset switch was okay but still just cranks without any hint of starting. Any suggestions?

Try spraying a couple teaspoons gas in the throttle body...if it momentarily starts...suspect fuel pump system.Have friend listen at fuel cap opening when you turn key.Listen for hum. No hum no pump,Check for spark wuth plug out, connected to wire, plug grounded. No spark, no ignition (coil?)

I know it's the fuel pump but how can I determine if it's the pump itself or a fault in the circuit feeding the pump... and why would leaving the ignition on cause a problem like this?

All fuses are good and the reset switch is ok.

Tested battery voltage ok at reset switch...

Swapped fuel pump relay with headlamp relay (same part #) with no change. I don't have a schematic so I'm at a stop until I get one

If no test equipment avail you might try running a 12volt test lead directly to the pump, bypassing all the other wires.

1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Windows / Glass   

How do I remove the driver side door panel

Hello,

1. Remove the rear view mirror mounting hole cover.
2. Remove the inside door handle cup.
3. Remove the door lock control bezel.
4. Remove the window regulator switch plate.
5. Remove the interior lamp lens.
6. Remove the screw from the interior lamp opening.
7. Remove the screw from the window regulator switch plate opening.
8. Disconnect the window regulator jumper wire from the outside rear view mirror control, the seat regulator control, and the front door lock switch.
9. Disconnect the window regulator jumper wire from the luggage compartment remote control lock switch.
10. Lift the front door trim panel vertically, out of the weatherstrip, and over the door latch control rod knob.
11. Disconnect the interior lamp from the window regulator jumper wire.
12. Remove the front door trim retention hooks into the door inner panel.
13. Remove the front door trim panel.

TO INSTALL:
14. Reverse the removal procedure, paying special attention when inserting the front door trim panel into the weatherstrip. Rock the front door trim panel into the weatherstrip and push downward until the lower trim belt character ditch lines up with the score mark on the inner door panel.

Source: The Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Engine   

1996 Mark VIII LSC. Over heating problem.
Car will idle fine for 1 hour.
Take it out on road and it heats up. You can feel the egine plus air from heater is really hot.
HOWEVER, coolant in reservoir DOES NOT GET HOT.
Thermostat, radiator, water pump and sensor have all been replaced. Have checked for airlock by putting coolant also in 1/4" fitting on top of crossover hose as well as putting reservoir 8' in air (with extension hose). Problem persists. Help!

Has a block test been done to rule out combustion gases entering the cooling system?

I will assume the radiator cap was replaced too.

Yes to both questions. I should have included that.

Next check is for operation of the cooling fan.

Yes, we will recheck that tomorrow.
But even if it is defective, wouldn't the reservoir water get hot? I does not.

Nope fan works ok.
Any other thoughts?

Unable to send problem to a new mechanic.
Can you do for me?

Idling fine for hour rules out cooling fan.
Sounds like airflow problem when vehicle moving. Check rad for obstructions and ensure the lower airflow deflector is in place.
Check rad for blockage. A partially plugged up rad will cool ok at idle or low speeds but not at higher, when demands are high.
I use a handheld gun type thermometer but if acess ok, it is possible to use your hand. You are looking for temperature differences in the front surface of rad.

1995 Lincoln Mark VIII Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens always Always

Nov 2003 air ride system failed (car would not elevate) took it in to be fixed.

After I got my car back from the shop (a Lin. Merc. dealer) the Check Air Ride System message kept coming on and a grinding/clunking sound now started in the right front section of the car.

Took the car in again in Feb. and they couldn't find a problem.

March & April of 2004 the grinding/clunking sound continued and the Check Air Ride System message kept coming on.

I took the car in to have the air compressor checked and it was fine. Yesterday it started all over again - same situation as Nov 2003.

The car looks like a low rider and it rides like an old buggy. WHAT DO I DO NOW? Is it a sensor problem????? Can I fix this myself? Can I replace some of the circuit breakers that are located in the Power Box located under the hood?

I have dumped too much money into this car already. I am completely frustrated with this problem. HELP! I want to try and fix it this weekend, if I can.

(Released in error and re-engaged by admin)

When I took the car back to them in March the service manager said that I needed an air compressor – this he said to me without a diagnostic. In April I took it to another Linc. Merc. Dealership, they did a check on the air compressor & they said the compressor was making noise, but that it was functioning---just running a little longer than it should.

Call me crazy, but I sure can't tell someone they need a compressor if it is functioning. At least if the owner can stand the noisey operation. Given that the compressor is "running a little longer than it should", it should get caught up and shut-up. It shouldn't run all the time while the car is driven, and the system should hold the air! You knew that I'm sure.

There are height sensors that tell the system when the car setting too low for too long. (Like when several passengers get in.) After a time window passes and the car is still low, the compressor comes on to raise the car back to normal curb height. The time delay is required to ensure the car hasn't simply gone over a dip in the road.

If the car is sensed to be too high in curb height, the system will exhaust air charge until normal curb height is obtained.

All that said:

1. If there is an air leak, the system runs all the time trying to keep up. (This results in compressor wear-out.) The leak must be repaired and the compressor replaced if it wore out.

2. If the exhaust for the air ride gets stuck "ON", then that is yet another type of air leak that will cause the above described symptom.

3. A bad height sensor can be calling for exhaust all the time by reporting the car's height to be too high.

Bottom line here is to decide if you will keep the car. If it's a keeper then you need a diagnosis that is complete and reliable. I can't do that over the NET.

Body shops can fix suspension problems. Doesn't have to be a car dealer service department. Ask around. Don't authorize repairs you do not understand and agree to be needed.

If you need system wiring diagrams or troubleshooting chart info, please advise.

Roger

Roger,
Thank you for your prompt response. I need as much technical information that I can get before I go to the dealership tomorrow afternoon. The following is a synopsis of repairs/charges starting November 2003. I think a lot of the repairs/charges are extraneous and I would like your advice to confirm this; I will contest these repairs/charges if need be. Please let me know.
11/05/03 Concern: Cust states check suspension light is on and hears a thump noise while driving. Correction: Replaced SKH ABS ASY-RR-SPO (2), ARM BUSH/JT ASY-SPO (1), ARM BUSH/JT ASY-SPO (1), BUSHING-FRT SUS-SPO (1), INSULATOR-STAB-SPO (2), SHK ABS ASY-RR (2), ARM BUSH/JT ASY-FR (1), ARM BUSH/JT ASY-FR (1), BUSHING-FRT SUSP-LW (4), INSULATOR-STAB BAR (2), KIT-FRT AIR SUSP SH (1B), KIT-FRT AIR SUSP SH (1B) and performed 4 wheel alignment. My comment: The Check Air Ride System light kept coming on and the noise never went away. AND, why did they replace anything in the rear? I did not have any problems with the rear of my car!
03/02/04 Concern: Check Air Ride Correction: Road test check. Found noise from loose lower control arm bolt, secured to correct tension. My comment: The noise never went away & the Check Air Ride System light kept coming on.
03/08/04 Concern: Customer states there is a grinding/clunking noise coming from right front area and that the Check Suspension Light is on. Correction: Checked suspension for noise, road test 10 miles, found only noise to be compressor for suspension - noisy, but functioning correctly at this time. Check Air Ride System light did not come on, checked for codes, none, passed tests. My comment: The Check Air Ride System light kept coming on and the noise never went away.
03/08/04 Concern: Customer states there is a grinding/clunking noise coming from right front area, and that the Check Air Ride Suspension light is on. Correction: Check suspension for noise. Road test 10 miles, found only noise to be compressor for suspension - noisy, but functioning correctly at this time. Check Suspension light did not come on. Checked for codes, none. Passed tests.
04/03/2004 Concern: Customer states that the Check Air Ride System light is on, car shocks do not work at all (car sitting low), and no longer hears the noise.
..And this is where we are today, Roger. Looking forward to your response. The thing(s) that irritate me most is that beginning November they never did a sensor check or an air compressor check. If a customer had a concern with the air ride system, wouldn't that be one of the first things that you, as a technician, would check???!!!

The letters "RR" written on your repair order can be easily taken to mean 'right rear' but after reading your repairs I believe the "RR" refers to 'remove/replace'.

The first thing I do is verify the complaint. Period. If I don't get the same symptom my customer does we road test together until I see it happen. Then I diagnose by checking for codes, performance test the compressor, leak test the system, offer my findings to the owner along with an estimate for repairs. Anyone who won't follow these common sense professional steps should not cross your path at all.

The repairs you paid for....I'm skeptical of the need. Why? Because your complaint did not alter or change. The Better Business Bureau would be interested in your story. So would an attorney.

That shop needs to respect your business and keep you from the word-of-mouth advertizing their carelessness has brought to be. You have the right to challenge this company. If you are not comfortable doing it, retain council and get what you paid for.


Roger

Roger,

Thank you for your assistance. I believe I do have a case to take not only to the BBB, but the new owners of this particular dealership. Also, I am currently composing a letter of complaint to the Lincoln Mercury Corporate Headquarters!

Regards,

Have you asked for an appointment with the Lincoln Mercury Zone Representative for Service? Your owners manual should have a toll free number you could call.

The service manager at your dealer should agree to set such an appointment for you. Believe me, no dealer wants a zone complaint and a zone rep for service has an account he can use to assist you monitarily (A good will account) and or the authority to direct the dealership how to proceed.

One other thought I have that staggers a service manager is that when a customer's car is not fixed but money was charged...tell them to put the car back like it was when you brought it in and refund your money unless he can show you beyond doubt that what he did was truely needed and convince you to authorize his assumptive position and let him slide. (Few people would.) In that case I'd make him eat the labor and leave the parts on your car because your complaint was NOT fixed. Even if these new parts were needed you should see proof and get a chance to authorize those repairs AFTER your complaint is fixed. Make sense?

Service departments thrive on what is called a "Customer Satisfaction Index" (CSI). If you file a zone complaint the CSI score is effected negatively for the dealer in the region the business is located.

Get in front of the right people, get their attention, plead your case with your repair history documentation and you should get results going the right way. If this fails, you'll surely take your business elsewhere and keep your friends out of there too.

Zone reps are usually good people. If you keep your head and show due respect I believe you'll resolve this favorably.

If you get no respect, legal action would be in order in my opinion.

Roger

Roger,

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will proceed.
Would you be interested to know the outcome of this situation?

It's none of my business, but sure I would like to know I've helped you win this query.

I'm an honest person and I've been around dealerships for 30 years. I've seen and heard alot of discussions with top level managements' handling of sensitive issues like yours. I've seen heads roll with or without smiles involved. I've seen customers denied in certain cases due to their attitude. And I've seen them win big time because the car maker wants your loyalty and repeat business.

Your position clearly will deter a sensible person from perceiving your request to be abusive, or unreasonable. I hope for a favorable outcome for you.

You're welcome,

Roger

1995 Lincoln Mark VIII Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Battery will not stay charged . Have replaced alternator (4) times and battery same,no help.have also replaced battery cabels and connectors also with no results. alternator belt is tight.

Sometimes the car will run two or three days of driving, but will slowly drain the battery.

This is a very good car,everything on this vehicle works.

Can you suggest anything that might help.

You can contact me at; ehgragg@comcast.net

THANK YOU.

Check for parasitic battery drain. IE: glovebox light or trunklight staying on.How I find the problem, is disconnect neg battery.Place test light between cable and battery.It will light up. If something on.
Remove fuses, one at a time, until test light go out. You now have elininated 95% of the wiring.A simple HAYNES shop manual ($15) will have easy to read wiring diagrams of all the systems. That should get you on the right track!

1995 Lincoln Mark VIII Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Before starting engine battery voltage is 12.8 at terminals. Alternator from pos cable to engine ground and then to battery neg post is 12.7 - 12.8.

Upon starting, voltage with accessories off is 14.2-14.3. With engine at operating temp. & AC on, voltage drops to approx. 13.0 and continues to drop as with time to as low as 11.8 volts. When running at 1500 rpm voltage is 13.6-13.8. Problem seems to be heat related?

Alternator is a new factory rebuilt Motorcraft from Ford. Battery is an Autolite 7 mos old that load tested OK (sp of 1.265, all cells).

When the AC is turned off the 11.8 volts jumps to 13.8 volts as measured with a digital meter at the cigar lighter. I've had to replace the battery each year.

Is there anything you could suggest I do to remedy this problem? Thank you.

Dick K.

Are you saying it will not charge when warm at idle, but will if the rpm's are raised to 1500? This sure sounds like a defective voltage regulator in the alternator.

Was the problem exactly the same with the new and old alternator, or did the problem appear when the new alternator was installed?

After engine has been run (hot) charging voltage at idle is appox. 13,6-13.8 and does not change at 1500 rpm. New pig-tail regulator was installed with alternator, leads soldered and shrink tubed. The old and new alternator gave me the same problem. The only difference was that I didn't have an on-board digital voltmeter to monitor battery voltage.

Only with the A/C on it discharges? What about with the A/C off; headlights, blower, and wipers on- Is it okay then?

Are you sure the belt isn't slipping when the A/C is on (use extreme caution around moving engine parts!)

Additionaly check the wiring to the compressor, to make sure its not shorting.

Discharges only with AC and cooling fan on. Serpentine belt and tensioner are new quality parts. Without AC on and engine at operating temp voltage reads 13.6 - 13.8. Reving to 1500 rpm does not increase charging voltage.

When sitting in traffic (100 degree air temp) on-board digital voltmeter will drop from 12.6 -12.7 volts and continue to drop to 11.8 volts. When moving to traffic speed (35-50) voltage will increase again to 13.6 - 13.7.

Initial reading on on-board meter prior to starting vehicle after sitting for a few hours, or overnight, has been 12.6 - 12.8 volts which appears to be a fully charged battery. Charging voltage upon starting cold engine (71 degrees ambient temp) is 14.1 to 14.2 volts and drops to 13.6 - 13.7 when warmed up as previously mentioned.

Could my problem be with the AC or cooling fan? The vehicle has 92K miles on it, but has been well maintained.

It is possible the A/C clutch is drawing to much voltage, but that is a lot to overcome the alternator (if all the previous mentioned accessories didn't do it.)

I'm wonder if the idle speed may be dropping to low. Does the idle speed increase when at Idle in Park, and you turn on the A/C?

1995 Lincoln Mark VIII Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

my vehicle pulls to the left when braking. I have replaced the pads, rotors ,capliers, lines and brake fluids

Additional reasons for a car to pull left:
1) Alignment problem
2) Suspension problem (ball joints, tie rods)
3) Rear brake problem
4)Tires inflated unevenly
5) Brake hoses
6) ABS problem (get scanned by shop)

1995 Lincoln Mark VIII Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Check air suspension message keeps coming on after 60 mph. Driver just had 4 tires put on and aligned plus break work and left strut arm bushings replaced at NTB in Alton IL. Driver is on way to NY and this problem started. Can he do anything to fix himself? Is car safe to drive? He has to be back in NY for meeting Mon morning and is now in Terre Haute, Indiana.

Hello, Does the car drive all right? The ride may be effected and even the curb height can be less than desireable but the safety of the vehicle is not likely compromised.

If slowing to below 60 miles per turns the warning off the condition doesn't sound serious, just irritating. If the driver feels safe at highway speeds and the car drives safely let the message have information priority for a future check of the system.

Roger

The driver says it does not go off below 60mph now - it is constantly on. The car seems to settle - in front - it was down so low it hit the top portion of the tire and he could only see 70% of the front tire on the driver's side. Is there some switch in the trunk?

Sorry, I was not clear. The driver saw it settle low as described in my last reply - when he was getting gas.

There is an air suspension switch located in the trunk below the inertia fuel shut-off (IFS) and above the left rear wheel well.

Roger

When CHECK AIR RIDE message is displayed in message center, a system error or trouble code has been detected and stored by control module. When air suspension is turned off,CHECK AIR RIDE message will also be displayed when ignition is on. The control module will save trouble codes for 80 ignition cycles. If system error is not repeated during 80 ignition cycles, trouble codes will be erased.

Because of self-erasing memory, vehicle operator may have had a concern that cannot be retrieved from control module memory. Air suspension system will be disabled for current ignition cycle when a system error is detected. If error is corrected during the current ignition cycle, air system will not reactivate until next ignition ignition on/off cycle.

Roger

Thank you very much Roger - should he push the switch in the trunk? Does that reset everything? He said it drives fine until he hits the connection between the highway and the bridge and then it bounces up and down a bit.

His problem this A.M. was the gearshift froze in Park when he stayed in a hotel overnight - he got it to shift after an hour (& the sun warmed it). Is that a MLPS switch problem? Can he just leave it in neutral and pull the handbrake when he parks? A friend gave him the car to bring back to NY as a favor. I just don't want him to be in a dangerous position or stranded because he HAS to be in NY for a meeting tomorrow morning. When it rains it pours. Where are you?

I am in Oklahoma.

The switch in the trunk for the air ride system has on and off positions. It doesn't reset any thing. Just turns the system either on or off.

I advise not to leave the car transmission in neutral with the parking brake set because that will prevent ignition key removal.

Roger

Believe it or not I am finishing a job in the Caribbean before returning to Baltimore on the 18th. He's past Wheeling heading towards Harrisburg. Thus far so good. Whenever he hits a bump it is bad. He says it feels like there are no shocks. Is this damaging the car?

Any car rides rough if it bottoms out over a bump. With the air gone from air suspansion every bump is a shock as the suspension air ride is flat. No cusioning.

I don't know the experience level of the driver but if it were me I would see what happens if the key were turned off at highway speeds (when safe to do so), shift to neutral and restart the engine and put the car back in Drive. It might cause the system to attempt to air up and improve the ride for awhile. It won't harm anything. Just don't floor the accelerator right away. Give the trans a chance to upshift to a highway gear first.

Roger

Unfortunately, I did not see your last message until just after the car broke down east of Allentown - 70 miles from NY. It is being taken to the Allentown Lincoln-Mercury later today. The good thing is - it should be cheaper to fix in Allentown than in New York City!

Well this is disappointing but should work out if the dealership can get it in quickly and haa parts.

What would you have me do for you now?

Roger

Nothing right now. I have called the dealership to let them know the car is being towed in this morning & advised of the problems. They will call me back once they look at the car. Once I hear from them with the estimate, may I seek your feedback?

Yes, if you are not ready to close this question just let me know how I may help.

Roger

Thanks. Will contact you as soon as I hear from them.

Still got me hanging here. Ready to close the question? Please click on OK to finish up. If you still need me please advise/update.

Thanks,

Roger

Sorry Roger. As soon as I get the estimate on the car from the dealer - which they promised for today, I will pass it by you and if you can tell me what you think, we can close the question. Again, please accept my humble apology.

I didn't need an apology, just some news on what is going on and how I may help.

Thanks,

Roger

Thank you for your patience - I was in a car wreck! This question has come to an end.

I pray you are all right. That's all that matters.

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

Thank you and God speed,

Roger

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When shifting Always

Every time I depress the brake I blow a fuse in the interior fuse box.15amp for the brake/shift relay or solenoid.I replaced the fuse several times,but it keeps breaking.Is there a short in the switch/solenoid or is there maybe a problem in the one of the relays in the fuse block in the engine comp.?

Hello, When you apply the foot brake one of the switches actuated by the brake permits you to pull the shift lever out of Park. It is mounted just above the brake light switch and apparantly there is a short in the Shift Lock Switch or solenoid. Most often it is the solenoid that has the short. It should be at or near the base of the steering column. If you locate it and can unplug it's connector you should be able to isolate the solenoid and test the switch.

Is this making sense to you?

Roger

Got your answer,sounds about right.Is the switch accessable without taking apart to much? and also what does this thing look like?

The switch is a small rectangle shaped box with a button sticking out of it that the rear edge of the brake pedal arm pushes in when you release the brake. It will be mounted just above the brake light switch that works the same way.

The solenoid will be near where the gearshift linkage can be seen to rotate as you move the shift lever. The solenoid (when working properly) will mechanically block the shift lever movement if the key is on and the foot brake is not applied.

No doubt you all ready know that you can get the shifter out of Park by rotating the ignition key from "Lock" to "Off", apply the foot brake, select Neutral, and then start the car in neutral even when the solenoid is working properly and there is no short that pops a fuse.

The workman's body position can be tough to get into to access these parts, but the parts are not a difficult job to replace.

Roger

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII Chassis / Suspension & Steering Leaking When driving Always

The car strangely seems to maintain proper level when turned off. When I drive, the compressor comes on for a little bit, then the "check air ride system" message comes on and the car begins to sink until it's riding on the snubbers. If I shut the car off and restart, the compressor comes back on and raises the car back up, then if I go fast on the highway it seems ok for a while, but when I slow down the message comes back on and the car sinks again. Again, when I park the car the height seems to stay the same. Help is much appreciated.

You say the system seems to hold a level pressure in a parked position but when driving system drops.My first train of thought would be in the air bags, supply lines and possibly an air bag sensor itself.First,the air bags.There is a possibility that one or more of the bags have a leak.When in the stationary position,the vehicle may settle to a position where the leak kind of seals itself off in its own folds.Unless you have access to a drive on car lift this may be a little difficult but doable task if you want to try it on your own.The reason I say this is the fact that if the vehicle is lifted with a jack or conventional chassis lift,the air ride system must be shut down in order to eliminate the ride system from getting a false negative from the sensors and cause the vehicle to overcompensate itself and cause any further damage.On a drive on lift,the system can be left engaged so as to check bags at their full extension.If you do attemp this in your driveway or garage,"MAKE SURE!"you have jack stands at"ALL FOUR CORNERS"of the vehicle and"CHOCK ALL WHELLS".Next,get a squirt bottle and mix a 50/50 mixture of soap and water(dish soap works just fine)Now start the vehicle and let it get up to its operating level.set your chocks and stands at the highest level underneath the chassis also set the parking brake.With this done,look at your air bags for any cracks,splits unusual wear while they are fully inflated.Take your spary bottle and spray them all around.Look for any kind of soap bubbles.If you get any,which is my first guess,you have an air bag issue.If all tests well here,take your soap bottle and squrit the lines going into the bags and sensors and the lines going into your compressor.If there are any bubbles in these areas,Ford has a grommet kit to remedy this.As for the sensors,this is probably something a quailfied tech would most likely need to check.There is a whole series of tests that are relayed on comand from the scanner that actualy make the car dance like a "lowrider" with hydralics.This would most likely be my last resort without doing an actual hands-on inspection myself.Keep in touch and we will try and get thru it.
Good Luck,
Paul

I appreciate your help on this. I need to say I just bought the car, and after letting it sit all night I've found the front does go all the way down. The back seems to stay normal. However, the front does go down a lot faster while driving. It may be becuase of the increased momentary pressure while going over bumps. I will jack the car up at the outer ends of the control arms to keep the system charged while I check for leaks. Again, thanks for your help. I've done some background checking and have found that everything on the system is still original. How important is it to replace the dryer when I repair the leak(s)?

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII Heating / Cooling System   

Attempting to replace cooling system thermostate. I do not know for sure, where the thermostate is. Following the hose takes me to an area on the drivers side just left and below of battery. This is a very tight space. If this is the thermostate, any suggestions how I can get to it?

Visit the following site and you can download the factory service manual for your car-

http://www.fordcds.com/

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII. In the morning and at other times the front or back or both ends may be down. The only way to get the car to the correct height is to start it and then the front end will come up. Soon the "check air ride sytem" message comes on. Then, I must shut it off and restart it and the back end will come up.
My mechanic has checked for leaks and we recently tried another air ride control module to see if that would correct the problem.
It is difficult to find anyone who still has the equipment to read the error message when it comes on. I really like the car but don't want to spend $3,000 on a complete new system just to fix this problem.
If someone has raised the auto without switching off the air ride could this have thrown it out of whack? If so, how do you reset it?

Yes, lifting your car improperly can damage it. Last time it happened to me I disconnected the fuse for it and bled the air from the system and let the car settle down low. Then reinstalled fuse and started car and it levelled itself. I was lucky! Next time I will be replacing the air struts with coil over struts from STRUTMASTERS. They are cheap and have a lifetimw warranty *(About $5-600 for set of 4)If those air struts fail while driving they might cause an accident...

1993 Lincoln Mark VIII Engine Won't Start When starting Always

Engine won´t start,cranking well,fuel pressure is also spark.What to do HELP!

Here are some things to consider. Has work just been done on the car....have the plug wires or distributor been moved? Will the car start with starting fluid? Is the spark strong? Is the engine spinning properly? Is the compression good? Is the timing chain broken/slipped?

Not any work made,nothing has changed or moved,will start with starting fluid,spark is strong,compression is good .When engine is running it runs very nice.

OK,
If it will start with starting fluid, then the spark, timing, distributor, compression are all acceptable. Our problem lies solely in the fuel system.
#1 Fuel pressure should be 38-42 psi.
#2 When checked with a noid light, the injectors should be firing while the engine is cranked. If not flashing, there should be power to red wire at the injectors with the key on.
#3 The injectors need to be injecting fuel when the injectors are pulsed.
#4 The injector on-time must be long enough to start the car.

Focus on #1 and 2 first. Most likely the problem is there.

Hi again.With a noid light injectors are not flashing
and red wire has a power with key on.Fuel pressure is ok.
What next

OK,
The computer is not firing the injectors. It could be a failed ignition module, failing to send the signal to the computer.

First, lets run a few more checks. Stop and email me at the first failure you find.

#1 Disconnect the throttle posisition sensor. Turn the key on and measure the voltage between the outer 2 pins on the harness. They should be 4-6 volts.

#2 Reconnect the TPS, Backprobe the the grey wire, pin 1 at the ignition module on the left fender near the master cylinder. While cranking, there should be 3-7 volts on this wire.

#3 We should next check for codes on the computer system. This can be accomplished with a scanner or manually by grounding the single pin connector at the diagnostic terminal under the hood. Turn the key on and watch the check engine light flash. It should flash 3 sequences. It will flash the current codes first, 3 digit, repeated 3 times. Then there will be a single flash, then the memory codes, 3 digits, repeated 3 times.

Hi!
I made all these checkings like you told me.
1.OK 5 volts
2.OK 7 volts
3.If it is terminal right near ignition module,check engine light is not flashing when I ground this single pin.Did I number 3 right and what to do next.

We got the wrong results on #3. I think you may have the wrong wire. The diagnostic connector has space for 5 wires and is in the shape of a trapezoid. Only 3-4 wires are used. There is a single wire connector right beside the diagnostic connector and that is the one to be grounded. It is under the hood near the drivers side strut.

Finally I checked these digits but I got different digits like you told me.It was like 2 1 2 1 1 1 3 1 3
1 1 3 1 1 1 3 1 1 3.Numbers means how many time flashes fast like morse you know.

This sequence does not make sense. It should be in a format of:
abc abc abc 111 xyz xyz xyz.

I am not able to see that pattern in what you have written.

You should have a pattern something like 212 212 212 111 336 336 336. Or 213 332 213 332 213 332 111 214 534 214 534 214 534.

Please try again.

Ok I got these codes:121,113,121,113,1,111,111.
What next?

Sorry I made a mistake with codes,right codes are
121,121,1,512,512.

Great.
Code 121 means that the throttle position sensor is out of range. This can come from binding throttle linkage, failed sensor, failed computer, or throttle parts not put together properly. This can cause a hard start because the computer can believe you are trying to clear a "flooded" engine and will turn off the fuel injectors.

Measure the voltage on the middle wire of the WITH IT CONNECTED and the key on. It should be between 1/2 to 1 volt. If it is 4 or 5 volts, your problem is there.

Code 512 means the battery power has been disconnected from the computer. Don't worry about this for the present time.

Yes there is almost five volts .

Time for a TPS sensor. They are not very hard to change. Make sure the voltage is 1/2 to 1 volt on the center wire when you are finished.

1993 Lincoln Mark VIII Fuel System Won't Start  

not starting where is fuel relay located?

The inertia reset button for the fuel system should be located in the trunk. Expose the carpet to reveal.

1993 Lincoln Mark VIII All Part Groups   

Hi. I've gone through 3 batteries in the last two years of owning this 93 Markiii. My mechanic says the problem is not the altinator which I thought it was. when I left the car running with the air conditioner on for 10 minutes it stalled and I couldn't start it without a jump. Another time the same thing without the air running. This most recent time it's sitting in my driveway for about eight days. I went to start it and the battery acts as though it's dead. Please help. Is it the alternator or something else. Is there a safty or security feature that may be shutting the car down that I don't know about? Thank you for any help you can offer...John

What you need to do is monitor the charging voltage while the engine is running.

Do you have a volt meter (DVOM)? Let me know and I'll do my best to get back to you in a timely manner.

Thank you for answering so soon! No I don't. What exactly will a Volt Meter tell me about the battery? Will it let me know if it's charging and if it's not, does that mean the alternator is shot?

Yes, a voltmeter will allow you to monitor voltage. If the alternator is not charging you will know it.

Any chance the air compressor was freezing up?

Thank you for replying so quickly. Well, after sitting in my driveway for almost a month, I finally had AAA come and jump it. Started on first try. I asked about the alternator and he said that it was charging fine. He suggested that it may be something that's drawing power while the engine is off. I just don't know how to check for that. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Use an ampmeter to check for current draw. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Connect an ampmeter in series and see what the current draw is. Make sure there is nothing on using current (IE- hoodlight, domelight, etc).

Things like the trunk and glove box lights can be problem spots, hard to see if they stay on when they should be off.

When you hook up the amp meter take a reading then take the reading again in about ten minutes. This gives timers (designed to run for a while after key is off) the chance to run their course.

What is the amperage draw?

1993 Lincoln Mark VIII Engine   

I have a 1993 lincoln mark viii the engine turns over and will start for 1 sec.then stall again. I dis- connected (Wires)to the EVR and the EGR values and it still starts for 1 sec.then stall, also starter fluid did not help?

Hello,

Is the engine actually stalling when you release the key from the start position? If you have a remote starter switch you can disconnect the small 'start' wire from the starter and connect the remote starter in place. Have an assistant hold the key in the start position while you activate the starter with the remote switch. This can be caused by the ignition switch or ignition components (distributor, module).

If you have low fuel pressure from a plugged filter or dead pump, it may also exhibit these conditions. Use of starting fluid would make a difference, albeit minor.

1992 Lincoln Mark VIII Heating / Cooling System   

I am having problems locating the thermostat on my 1993 Lincoln Mark 8, 4.6 32 valve engine. I need to know where it is located, and how to change it. Thank you, rsandefer@charter.net

Copy and Paste teh following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/19/2d/fd/[redacted] 2dfd/repairInfoPages.htm

These instructions are for the 4.6L engine used in the Mercury Grand Marquis, which is the same to the best of my knowlege. If they are not the same let me know OR if you cannot get the link to work (in which case I will email you the instructions- [redacted] ).

I cannot get the instructions, please forward instructions on how to and where to install. The car while idleing does not over heat, only while driving, then gets boiling hot. Please help as I am disabled severely and need the vehicle drastically. Thanks

Check your email, "4.6L Thermostat" in the subject line.

I will help you to as best I can.