Lincoln Town Car

2005 Lincoln Town Car All Part Groups   

Where is the Vin number located on a 2005 model Lincoln Towncar? and where, again, is the Engine number located? Thank you

THE VIN NUMBER SHOULD BE LOCATED IN THE VERY FRONT DRIVERSIDE LOOKING THROUGH THE WINSHEILD FROM THE OUTSIDE IN AND THE ENGINE NO# SHOULD BE ON THE BLOCK NEAR THE REAR CLOSE TO THE TRANSMISSION SOMETIMES IT WILL BE NEAR THE FRONT UNDERSIDE OF THE ENGINE CLOSE TO THE OIL PAN

Thank you for the reply... Is there any other place on the car that the VIN could be located?

not that i have seen i have a ford mustang and most ford vins seem to be in the same place unless someone removed the vin it should be there on the drivers side dash near the front of the windsheild . If the car has the orginal tranny it will also be on there .

Dash vin ,Motorblock Vin ,Tranny Vin is the most places i have seen the vin located

was this helpful

please close out this question if you feel i have anwsered your question

I thank you for all of your help and you quick responses. I was able to find the Engine Number, but I didn't find the 2nd VIN number. This is OK though. Thank you once again, you were very helpful. Have a great day...

2003 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade When repairing Always

I was replacing the stock no longer functional tape deck with a Jensen CD3010X cd/fm radio. I bought the adapter kit, plugged it all in and no sound. Seems to be functional otherwise. Can I bypass the plug in for the speakers? The wires are a different color than the connector from the kit. Are their woring diagrams available? Will I have to bypass stock wire and install new from the deck to the speakers?

Someone in the past may have monkeyed with the wire to the speakers in the past.. lets assume they are still stock but have some age.. get a multimeter or conductivity meter and verify the wires are intact from the radio to the speakers.. if they are intake then verify you did not mix up the wires on the connection to the new radio (very easy to do). This will take some time and I am sure that you will have success.. also is it possible the new radio system is not funtioning properly? I installed a custom radio in a car a few years ago and it came with a "tester" that plugged into the back of the radio to verify the wires were all properly connected. Seemed that if you grounded out one of the speaker wires it gave feedback to the radio and caused the radio to fail. Just another idea.. good luck.. Al

2001 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Will not shit out of park

You can temporarily drive the car by turning the key to the first position, shifting to neutral, then starting the car. The problem is that the shifter cannot tell the brake pedal is pressed. Check the stop lamp fuse, stop lamp switch and the wiring under the dash at the stop lamp switch.

1997 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems   

lower brake lights dont work -top one works fine.Brake switch has been replaced with new and all bulbs are not burned out

The brake lights pass through the multifunction switch (turn signal) and this can cause the brake lights to fail.

Did they both go out at once?

no they work fine

I wasn't very clear before, 'both' was meant to refer to both left and right brake lights at the time not to include the signal lights.

now backwindow light does not go on and still no brake lights/
flashers do not work properly unless hazard button is jiggled

-Damaged multi-function switch.
-Damaged stoplight switch.
-Fuse 16 (15A), Fuse 1 (15A), Circuit breaker 12 (18A).

than these things the problem can only be the wiring. I assume the shift interlock disengages, indicating the problem is beyond the brake switch.

I can send you troubleshooting instructions if you leave your email address.

[redacted]
Please forward info asap

Sending...

'1997 Linclon' in the subject line.

1995 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

I just had a new engine installed and now my directional lights and flashers do not work. Checked out all fuses and bulbs. All ok. Is there a computer chip that controls this? Will appreciate any help that anyone can give me. Thank you

Hi;
On the left hand side of the engine corpartment there is a big round connector, Try disconnecting it and reconnecting it. The computer does not control any of this. The only other thing that is attached to this system is if you anti theft alarm on it. Also might want to check your flasher unit. Good Luck Les.

Thank you for the info. My husband did that, with no result but he took apart the steering column and then put it back together and for whatever reason, the blinkers worked. Problem solved. However, I appreciate your information very much.
Joanne

1995 Lincoln Town Car All Part Groups Won't Start Happens always Always

how do you change the battery on a 1995 lincoln town car

this is a very simple process the first thing is to lift up the plastic insulating caps that cover the batt posts
second make sure you use the right size wrenches a 1/2 inch and a 7/16 wrench to remove the posts remove the positive and then the negative post after the posts are removed secure them to the side and lift the battery straight up out of the cradle
if there is a battery hold down strap then this needs to be removed first.
these straps are used for anti theft purposes along with keeping the batt from jumping up and down in the cradle.
the strap consist of 2 nuts at the top screwed down to a theaded rod with hooks at the opposite end,once it is loosened up enough it can be lifted up out of the holes on the bottom and then lift the batt out of the cradle

1995 Lincoln Town Car Interior Components   

interior lights and radio stay on after ignition is turned off and door is opened and closed

Hello, Your car has the Retained Accessory Power feature. When the key is turned off the accessories will work up to ten minutes if no door is opened. Then a timer in the body module will shut the power off to the accessories to save the battery.

There is a switch on each door latch that when the door opens will signal the computer the retained accessory power is no longer needed.

When the door is then closed a timer will turn off the dome lights.

If after turning off the ignition you can open and close the driver's door and the accessories stay powered up the door adjar switch on the door latch is defective.

Try opening one of the other doors. Does the radio go off? When you shut the door the lights should time out too.

Any help?,

Roger

I opened the passenger door and it worked and also one of the rear doors, it seems to have reset something the drivers door now also works, is this possible, I have been pulling the fuse for the past 6 months is there a reset like on a computer

No reset on the computer. Unless the computer shut down one of the doors' circuit to save battery power. If that were the case the first time the circuit in question worked correctly the computer would reset said circuit.

Lord knows what it is now because it is now working. It will pass every test we could think of.

How active has the open/closing of the passenger door been? Maybe that is the door that had a switch issue....

Roger

I'll check back in the morning to see if you need something further on this question.

If we are finished here please click on OK to finish up and that will close the question.

It's bedtime in my zip code,

Roger

the fee i paid is that for each question or am i entitled to future questions for a certain time period

The fee you paid is for the question first posted. Additional questions on different issues with the same vehicle are deserving of additional fees and should be posted seperately.

When you are satisfied the answer a technician has provided does answer your question it's expected the customer will accept the answer. To do this you are asked to click on OK to finish up.

If you are not comfortable with the technician's answer just ask for more information. If you do not approve/accept the answer one technician has provided you may release the question for others to try and answer to your satisfaction on the same money.

No technician gets paid until the customer accepts the answer and clicks on OK to finish up. Only the last technician who earns your business gets paid no matter how many were involved in the process.

There is no time window established to change the subject and ask different questions even if it concerns the same car.

Should it occur that you don't like anyone's answer you may write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and request a refund.

Respectfully,

Roger

O.K.
Thanks Roger, have a good week end.
B.F.

Thank you for the chance to help. Do you need further assistance?

Please advise,

Roger

1995 Lincoln Town Car Drive Train / Driveline   

no apshift to 3rd or 4th or overdrive.

Hello, There are two Shift Solenoids. When Overdrive is selected both 3rd and 4th gear require SS2 to turn ON.

In Overdrive SS1 is OFF in 3rd gear and is ON in 4th gear.

Have you checked the car for diagnostic codes? Sounds like SS2 has failed.

Roger

Will you be attempting repairs on this one? (It will call for opening the transmission)
I can send you causes for no 2-3 shift and no 3=4 shift.

I'll need your email address please.

Roger

Hi Roger-2 and three are there in drive tcc lockup but no shift to 3 or 4 and no torque converter clutch in tcs on or off.

My email address; [redacted]

I sent two emails to you. Check your inbox and spam/junk to be sure you get both.

Have you tested for diagnostic codes yet?

Thanks,

Roger

Hi Roger, My email address is [redacted] .
No I did not have access to code reader for transmission codes except for ObII. Thank you for your attention to this problem.

Don

Don, I sent two emails to the address you gave me. If you didn't see them in your inbox please check junk/spam mail as well. The two emails are seperate and on different days.

Have you received them?

Roger

Hi Roger, is replacement of ss2 relay difficult to repair?
Don

It is my opinion this should be done by a professional. I wouldn't open the trans until I had a road test with a high end scanner hooked up.

I'd be looking at what the commands vs feedback for the SS1 and SS2 indicated. data could call for additional troubleshooting to ensure a complete and reliable repair.

Is SS2 hard to replace? Nope. Open the trans, expect to have to remove the valve body for access. Reassemble with new gaskets where needed, new filter and fluid. Cleanliness is of great importance. One piece of dirt or even a human hair is enough to jam a valve body valve.

Your call,

Roger

Roger, Thank you for your professional advice, my problem seems to be finding someone reliable and honest to perform this operation. I am not physically able to handle this procedure. You have give me an honest evaluation. I am a retired former Auto Shop Instructor and Department Chair of one of the many high schools, in the Phoenix Union High School System.
Thank you again Roger,

Donald Robinson

Thank you Roger.
Respectfully,

Don,

Consider checking with your Chamber of Commerce and Better Business Bureau for membership, referrals, and complaints on repair shops for transmissions.

It seems that we have come to a point where lots of shops think repair calls for replacement with a factory rebuilt transmission assembly.

Beating the flat rate labor hour breeds short cuts that defy good training on thoroughly diagnosing and inspecting components for cause of failure. Responsibility is shifted to having the customer pay for more than was needed. Some call this a warranty! I call it shameful. The customer calls it outragious.

To close this question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

Thank you for your suggestion and reply Roger. Quick question? When the transmission oil was changed-the filter was at the battom of the pan. no rubber grommet to hold it up in place. Could this have caused the problem (s) of 3r and 4th gear (ss1 and ss2? Also could the grommet dissolved, in spite of that the transmission; still functions in 1st 2nd and reverse?
Curious?

Thank you again,
Don

Don, When the filter tube is not properly fitted with the grommet in place some of the fluid drawn by the pump is simply not filtered. It would take a really low fluid condition before pump cavatation would occur resulting in performance problems.

SS2 could have an electrical failure from a bad connection to a high resistance causing heat and dropping out.

Roger

Hi Roger-Thank you again. Will Follow through.

Respectfully,

Don

Don, You are welcome! I have enjoyed working with you.

God bless,

Roger

1994 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The light in the door, and under the glove box will not go out when the engine stops. It runs the battery down.

I believe these have a problem with the door switches sticking. You can try spraying the switches with WD-40 (open and close several times) to see if this will turn out the lights. Start with the drivers door and move on if necessary. Let me know if this works.

At the risk of sounding stupid--- Where are the door switches? Is this where one unlocks the door?

Open the door and look for the switch. The door will force it closed when the door is closed. If you have this switch you can actuate it with your fingers.

Check a couple doors, if after checking thoroughly you find no switches that will be actuated by opening and closing the doors, the switch is inside the door panel. Spray the latch mechanism (this is the device that latches and unlatches the door to the body). Give it a good dose of spray (beware of temporary odor if this is an issue for you)(actually getting inside some) and then close and open the door repeatedly.

I tried repeatedly, but no luck.

1994 Lincoln Town Car Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 94 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series. I'm having intermitant problems with automatic transmission during shifting. When it starts, it's like its chugging then will suddenly shift and go or will rev the engine. Transmission shop was unable to duplicate while it was there. Happens while my husband drives too but it will be fine one day then not the next.

Did the transmission shop run diagnostics or just take it for a test drive?

If they ran full diagnostics and didn't find anything, there is not much you can do at home. If the fluid/filter are overdue for a change, it might be worth a try to have this done. Sometimes a professional flush and full will cure some problems. You may have internal transmission failure though, and the fluid change would worthless.

If the check engine light is on (diagnostics not performed) while the engine is running, let me know.

Thank you for your reply. There are no warning lights displayed when this happens. The shop changed the filter and fluid and had the car for a day. They admitted they had a busy day and wanted the car back again - it's just not an easy place to get to from where I work so I haven't taken it back. I've talked to other town car owners and this seems to be a common problem but the solution varies.

1992 Lincoln Town Car All Part Groups   

there is either a pnumatic or hydralic piston used to raise the trunk lid on the 1992 lincoln town car. it is missing on my car and I would like to install a replacement.

Hello, If you are talking about what holds the deck lid up when open the supports can be purchased from an auto parts store. The parts counter man can take a look and probably guide you on how to install it.

If you are talking about releasing the trunk latch please advise.

Roger

1992 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems   

engine runs fine for couple of days, then it may just shut down all together, sometimes it will start back up and then sometimes after a few days, seems to be losing fire to the coil packs, if it doesn't start will turn over fine but not fire

Sounds like probable crank/cam sesnor failure if you have distrubutor-less ignition. Start with the crankshaft position sensor- test compare ohms when engine will run to ohms when it won't.

An image-

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=762&ptset=A&searchfor=Crank+Position+Sensor

Copy and Paste the above link into your address bar.

1991 Lincoln Town Car Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Hi,whenI brake I get a viabration from the rear,had new brakes all round,this started after brakes fitted any clues as to wat it may be,could it be a bush or somethin of that nature Thankx Keith

Hi, Were the brake rotors and drums turned on a brake lathe before being reinstalled or were they replaced?

Have you applied the emergency brake while driving as a test to ensure the vibration is in the rear brakes?

If the condition is present only when the brakes are applied the brakes will likely have the problem.

Roger

Did you receive my reply??

Roger

Hi,no the drums,discs,were not skimed,I,ve not applied
hand brake while moving,can feel viabration threw
pedal & body
Thanx
Keith

Hi Roger,Car in question is a limo 70" stretch
Thanx
Keith

Try the hand brake while driving to identify rear brake pulsation.

A stretch limo will really magnify a brake pulsation. Replacing brake only pads and shoes is not recommended if the brakes were pusating/vibrating before.

I recommend machining the rotors and drums and retest.

Roger

Hi Roger,Thanks 4 info,I,ve tried 3 different drums on limo,its the same,Ill see if I can get drums mch
& try again.
Thanx again 4 your help.Im in england
thats reason 4 delay in ans.
ATB Keith

Just reply when you can...

Roger

1990 Lincoln Town Car Engine  Happens always When warm 

After 15-20 minutes of driving, or if hard acceleration before that time, CHECK ENGINE lite comes on. Reader shows code 41 (sometimes also 91), and O2 sensors have been replaced twice (last week), once with FoMoCo, once with Bosch units. TPS replaced (was bad), other sensors recently replaced (previous owner). Indications: "system always lean". Fuel PSI is 36 idle, 40 to 41 with vacuum line off the bypass valve. What else could cause this? Engine runs very smoothly, but plugs very white, a little shy of power (5.0L engine, EEC-IV control) on accel (i.e., acts lean, too). Injectors were cleaned with in-tank cleaner, followed by BG44K, no effect. any ideas?

the reading of the O2 sensor from rich then lean. would bring about that error codes. The root cause could be a plugged fuel filter

Thanks for the reply: the fuel filter that is on the chassis, near the rear passenger door, was brand new when I got the car a couple of months ago. Apparently, the previous owner thought this might be trouble, too. Is there another filter somewhere else? I haven't seen one...I checked the length of the fuel line (2 weeks ago) for kinks or bends in all the open areas (whereever I can see it), but there is no problem anywhere I can find. The car is in excellent condition, overall, no accidents, rust or the like.

Oxygen sensor could be stuck at lean position may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor.
The discoloration of the plugs would most likely be the burning of deposits from the addatives you put in the fuel to clean the injectors another cause for this would be your mass air flow sensor or a fuel injector going bad but not enough to show a code and sometimes unfortunately codes just never appear for the mafunctioning part so you are at a process of elimination
hope this helps
Macconneck

I think I didn't explain it too well, or something: let's try this again...The plugs show dead lean, white, even after 200 miles. (I've been a motorcycle mechanic and racer, and have rebuilt my own (carb'ed) cars since 1966, so I'm not a rank amateur, just unfamiliar with EEC-IV.) This was true both with the new FoMoCo O2 sensors (in September), prior to using the additives, and after. It greats exceedingly GOOD gas mileage, like 21.9 MPG in city traffic, which is coming from the lean mix. 1990 Town Cars I know get about 17-18 MPG in the same situations. The new Bosch O2 sensors (in October) were installed after all the additives were long gone. When driving, you can accel hard and it takes off, then you can feel the EEC-IV backing off the spark timing because it can't richen the mix up enough, then the power falls off a little.

Recently, the previous owner replaced the MAP sensor, and it appears almost brand new: certainly very low mileage. The only actuator/sensor that looks older on the engine, in fact, is the EGR device, and the manual says it detects the EGR valve position. It does not run rough like EGR is open during idle of low-speed operation, though.

Compression is good, and the engine runs smooth as a baby's bottom, except the slight dip in power and the CHECK ENGINE light coming on after warmup and/or hard accel.

Is this any help?

You got me stumped so go ahead and release this question so you can get help through another mech
sorry I did not help

have you checked the catalytic converter

There are 2 cats, one on each side of the "Y" pipe. Tested emissions are just 35% of limits, so they must be working. Normally, I see rich plugs readings at hi RPM, a rich running condition, when cats, mufflers or pipes are plugged. This engine runs lean at higher RPM or under acceleration/hill climbing, OK at idle. I don't understand how plugged cats (even BOTH of them) could cause a lean condition at 2000+ RPM.

Once again, this engine runs lean at higher RPM or when climbing a hill or accelerating briskly. It can idle or run at up to 30 MPH seemingly all day without getting the CHECK ENGINE light, but one brisk accel from a stoplight will bring on the CHECK ENGINE light and a Code 41 and 91 from the Reader. I can reset the EEC-IV and repeat it, every time.

Anyone have an idea?

Have you checked the operation of the EGR valve?
These years also had some issues with the PCV valve etc plugging up too. I was told they were a poor design in that area...

The PCV valve is new. The EGR does not show any errors with the Code Reader, and it runs very, very smoothly at idle and low engine speeds, which doesn't seem to indicate EGR leakage. The sensor voltage changes a little when I blip the throttle, as EGR will move a little then, so I think that part's OK.

My understanding of this is: when EGR is open, it leans out the fuel mix (and lowers combustion temperatures), which makes sense. On the older (circa 1[redacted] ) Fords that I have, the EGR opens during moderate accel or when cruising, closing at idle and full throttle or when climbing hills (here in Colorado,that's very common...). I suspect the action is still similar, as physics is physics, even in 1990. Wouldn't the EEC-IV generate an EGR error code if this sensor wasn't working right?

This is, by the way, the only sensor/actuator that looks like it has any miles on it: the previous owner had most of the others changed before I got it: maybe he was chasing this problem. The TPR was going when I got it: I replaced it right away because sometimes it wouldn't start and the Code was showing a bad TPR.

Do you know a good way to "test" the EGR valve?

Plugged converters can cause lean codes- although this is probably trivial in this case.

Have you monitored fuel pressure...? To rule out any fuel pressure concerns pressure must be monitored while the problem is occurring.

Another thing I want you to check is the TPS (throttle position sensor). Make sure this letting the computer know the throttle is opening and requires more fuel.

Start here and let me know if we need to continue.

BTW- Injectors can become plugged- as you are probably aware of- to the point where cleaning is not an option. I'd guess that is not the case as it seems you are lean at all cylinders.

I only monitored it at idle, after the CHECK ENGINE light had come on. First I checked it at normal, warmed-up idle: it was 35 PSI. Then I unplugged the vacuum line on the bypass valve and it went to 41 PSI. These match the Lincoln book I have...

I'll have to try to find an extension hose of some kind if I'm going to bring it out to windshield view while running - I'll see what I can find tomorrow to try to do this, then let you know what I find. I know the previous owner had pulled out the fuel pump to "fix a fuel leak" inside the tank, whatever that means. When he reinstalled it, he bent the fuel float arm so that it reads 3/4 tank when it is over 1/2 empty, an ocassionally the gas gauge will "wink out" because the float sensor wire is damaged at the pump. But, in order to fix that, I have to get the exhaust pipe moved (at 11 AM tomorrow), because his "friend" welded in a new tailpipe, 'way out of position, that goes right in front of the fuel pump and hits the brake line and swaybar. There is no way to get the pump out at the moment, as a result. $%*!. Some people's kids....

I'll try to find that extension hose and test tomorrow, but it might be Tuesday, if that's OK with you.

Thanks, Mark

Any results?

Thanks for waiting on me: I got a "parking ticket" from the city for having my Airstream trailer on my property and have had to spend the last 3 days getting it moved.
(Major bummer: it's my business office...)

I'm going to try to find a high-pressure gas line hose tomorrow to test your theory: I'll let you know ASAP.

Did you try to fight to keep your "business office"?

What I am required to do is: first "remove the offense", then I can apply to have it permitted and brought back as my office. I may have to get a "1/2" address, like my house address + "1/2", so I can have it here. All this, after it's been here over a year already! I have yet to find out what this process requires.
In the meantime, I failed at the first auto parts store tonite to find a hose extension to use on my pressure gauge: I'll try a different place tomorrow.

Thanks for the interest!

Try lawguru.com

If the lawyers there don't provide the information you need let me know.

1990 Lincoln Town Car All Part Groups Vibration Happens always Always

Rebuilt transmission, now a vibration most noticeable starting at 30mph. Torque converter replaced 2nd time under warranty just in case first was bad. New wires/plugs/rotor cap (Motorcraft), 4 new shocks, tires spin balanced, new EGR, new (2) O2 sensors, new fly wheel, new transmission mount. Can replicate with foot on brake and slowly bring rpm up. Engine guy and transmission guy agree something is out of balance, but neither can figure out what and don't want to go down the path of guess and replace every part in car. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Motor mounts checked ok. Vibration at its worst is somewhat rhythmical. Tires new in May 06 (Michelin) rotated Sep 06, spin balanced Oct 06. Alignment May 06. Engine (2nd in life of car) is 5 years old, 120K. Exhaust system checked ok. Ball joints and tie rod ends replaced Jan 06. Air bag suspension rebuilts from Bagmaster Jan 05. Rebuilt transmission 8 weeks old, have been troubleshooting the vibration since then.

Check Your driveshaft
Drive the vehecle until it reaches the 30 mph range then change it to another gear Low or 2nd gear and and bring the engine speed to the same point to see if the vibration is consistent
Then the driveshaft is not at fault
you need your U- joints inspected
hope this helps

U-joints replaced Nov 06.

So you have had your driveshaft inspected also

Yes, the driveshaft was inspected by both transmission and mechanic guy. Transmission guy also pulled the transmission again, reinspected everything, replaced the torque converter and modulator valve just in case they were bad in the rebuild kit.

Correction to original post: Can replicate vibration with car in PARK (not in gear with foot on brake as stated.) The vibration feels like a tire is out of balance, except it can be replicated while in PARK. The vibration did not start until after the transmission was rebuilt which of course points to something related to the rebuild. Transmission guy asked mechanic guy to consult because of the ability to replicate in PARK. Mechanic guy ran every conceivable test on engine and found only that the #1 cylinder has a slightly weak injector but not enough to warrant replacement/repair or cause vibration. Both mechanic guy and transmission guy are scratching their heads over this one.

I take it that you have run a scan on your car and there are no stored codes?
Have your mechanic to disconnect the flywheel of the transmission and see if the vibration still exists after running the engine to the same RPMs that produces the problem.
even if there is a fault in the tranny it alone will not put such a load on the engine as to cause the engine to vibrate
witout the drivetrain being under load [or driving ]
Then you are almost down to swapping out the tranny to know for sure
I suggest that you get a second opinion at a transmission shop where it can be put on a lift
Someone [the mechanic or trans man ]is missing a issue here
I hope this helps

1990 Lincoln Town Car Engine   

ac compresssor kicks on and idle increases in park and in drive while stopped with brake on. Idle decreases when ac compressor stops. Surging is causing car to speed up slightly when coming to stop. does not do this when no ac load.

The RPM increase when the a/c compressor engages is an expected function.

Do you have a tachometer? The idle speed needs to be verified with a/c on and off.

Please advise,

Roger

engine idle w/ac comp increase shouldn't happen when in drive, foot on brake coming to a stop and car suddenly accelerates enough to scare you into thinking you missed the brake with your foot. Don't have tach, but idle increase sounds like it always has in neutral, just haven't had the surging while braking or rolling slow as in city traffic before. Cleaned IAC and throttle body, no help. Car stops running when IAC is unplugged while idling in park.

Has the battery been disconnected recently? That would reset the computer and call for adaptability to be relearned.

Can you borrow a tach?

Roger

lost connection, not sure if prev post got out.
Can prob get a tach. Yes batt was disc about 2 weeeks ago. Was t/s a no charging prob. Changed alt (bearings) and plug touched metal and blew fuse. Didn't realize no charge, barely made it home before batt gave it up. fixed prob and charging ok now. You think maybe relearning idle parameters? (no check eng light)I drive 40+ miles/day, highway and 2-lane. How long does it take? Is there a specific process? Notable thing is that the idle increases with AC compressor in park and in drive. If idling down driveway, car will actually speed up when the ac kicks on, and slow down when it kicks back off. didn't think the IAC (etc) would do that when car was in gear? thanks for the responses so far

What size engine please? Distributor or DIS system? Has any adjustments been attempted on the idle speed with the a/c on and off?

With the engine warmed up try turning the car off and disconnecting the battery for ten minutes. After ten minutes and while the battery is still disconnected, hold the foot brake pressed for one minute.

Reconnect the battery, start and drive the car at speeds of 25 - 45 mph with light acceleration and normal braking events including stops for 10 to 15 minutes or until the engine settles down and runs smoothly as to idle and performance.

Did this make a difference?

Roger

will try battery options tonight and let ya know. Didn't even think about the computer 'forgetting' how to idle...thanks

I'm hoping for a favorable result.

Roger

sorryt to be so long getting back. It was 22 degrees the last coouple of nights and I was getting home after dark - the last thing my wife wanted was to hold dinner while I futzed around with the car in the dark! Tried the procedure and it seems to have worked! Now the question is: what does holding the brake down have to do with resetting the memory? Is it the BOO switch input that helps the PCM gather itself back together? (BTW - it's a 5.0L, EFI, 1990 T/C) But what happens with the battery disconnected and the brake applied for 1 minute? I really thank you for the fix - but I'd like to understand also.
Much thanks.

The brake held down for a minute allows the very last of computer stored energy to expire by backfeeding through ground. Even I don't clearly understand it but I learned that trick from a great friend of mine who worked Ford drivability for eleven years.

With a clean slate the computer will adapt all new memory about driveability and not skip over residual data that was never cleared properly.

Thanks for your business, please close the question and All-Parts.com will pay me.

Roger

1990 Lincoln Town Car Fuel System   

Hi,Fuel gauge quit last night,any clues as to wat it might be.Thanx Keith (Berkshire England) 90/91 T/C Limo 70" Stretch

you may have a stuck fuel gauge that will break free in some time.
It is possible that the circuit is malfunctioned.
You can try tapping on the top of the fuelpump and gauge assembly to see if it will knock it free.
I need to know what engine you have.
your diagnostic Under hood, passenger side, front side of strut tower, mounted on fenderwell.
You can have your car tested free of charge at any auto-zone and retrieve any stored codes from your PCM.
This can save a lot of guess-work and expensive part changeouts if there was a cdoe pointing to a certain component.

1989 Lincoln Town Car Engine Sticking When idling Always

There is a three foor vacuum hose loose and we cannot find where the end attaches to the engine. It comes off of the vacuum pump right back part of the engine compartment (to the left of the brake master cylinder) facing the engine from front of car.. The car ran over a speed bump and this may have contributed to the dislodging of the line. I am unable to locate a nipple where this loose hose attaches.

Hello, Are you saying this hose is three feet long? What engine? Carb, or fuel injection?

Have you removed the air cleaner assembly so you can see more of the intake manifold? Can you lay the hose in what it's current shape appears to be the path that it ran? Is the hose split on the end?

If the hose does not appear split on the end it may have broken off the vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. The piece stuck on the nipple will tend to hide the connection point.

Have you tried running the engine at idle and listening for a hissing sound that would lead you to the connection point?

The vacuum tree on the intake manifold may have several hoses connected to it. Look at other hoses that connect to the intake manifold for an orientation to the area you are trying to find.

Thoughts?,

Roger

What is happening here,please? Haven't heard from you.

Thanks,

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing  

Failing emissions. did tune up,oil change,and looking at catalitic converter. 166666 miles, runs nice. very powerfull. Can the computer be reprogramed to give better milage and somewhat less power to improve emissions? If so Where? CT. car good Lincoln dealer in Seekonk MA>

Can you share the results of the emissions test- what is required to pass and what are your readings?

I could not get to the paperwork as the car is locked up in the garage tom be worked on. As I remember the hydro carbons are too high, should be 100 and actually read 136 ppm. I will get the paperwork Monday and send the real information.

1989 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The headlights go off for 5 to 10 seconds and then come back on for about 45 seconds on high beam only. I can hear a click under the dash somewhere but I cant locate where or find what is causing it.

Hello
Sounds like a broken dimmer switch or poor elctrical connection. Another pssibilty is a headlamp relay it will be located on passenger side of steering column, mounted behind lower dash panel, but with a clicking sound it will most likly be the relay.
Heavychevy

.

I cant't find the relay. The dimmer switch seemed ok. What I did do was boost the voltage with a battery charger and the lights didn't go off and on. but when I went back to just running the engine and the lights on it started happening again. Can you tell me what the relay looks like? I found one box where you said but it doesn't look like a relay. Thanks Henry

It will be a small black or grayish box about 1 inch by 1 inch part number will be on it MR15 or MR12.

1988 Lincoln Town Car Engine  Happens sometimes When warm 

I have a 1988 Town Car Limousine, it has been misfiring and bucking/hesitating. I found wires and distributtor cap and rotor to be worn. I replaced all spark plugs/wires/distributor cap and rotor. It runs 99% better. Now an underlying problem that was not noticible because of the real rough idle is this: When idleing or driving ESPECIALLY noticible with car in gear forward or reverse and at a stop probably b/c engine is under load is a small surge of rpm and then fall like it wants to stall. With the foot on the brake it almost wants to lurch and then it stops. When in park or nuetral it has a small rough idle every few seconds. not that noticeable, only under load is it really noticeable. I have no idea at this point. Sometimes it really doesn't do it at all. All cylinders are firing though. Tim TJG917@msn.com

An idle surge is most likely caused by one of the folowing items.
Idle control valve
MAP sensor out of specs
Fuel pressure out of specs
TPS sensor out of specs
EGR valve stuck open
Ignition timing too advanced

You should be able to find your surge is the result of one or more of these items.

1988 Lincoln Town Car Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

how to replace rear shocks

For the most part, replacing shock absorbers your vehicle uses coil-over struts. These require the use of a spring compressor and may prove a more difficult job
than the average mechanic wants to bite off. You'll need to rent
or borrow the compressor, which will allow you to take all the tension off
the coil spring while you change the shock or its innards. Warning!
Compressed springs have enough stored force to lift a car--or enough to
exit the wheel well with considerable velocity if the spring compressor
slips, which the tool has a tendency to do. so causion is important.
If you have the air assist then it is a matter of disconecting the air lines
For your car these springs can only be bought through after market and your shock at about 30-40 bucks
I hope this helps

Maybe, iam not uderstand what you are tellimg me, I would like to install rear shock on a 1988 Town Car,
the shock is running from bottom of spring to top
can i jack the rear axles up and put jack stand under
both side of the car and then release the jack. does this release the pressure off of the springs

On your particular model you should hav air shocks on the rear for that year
If you liftt the car fully that will take the poressure off and the spring will actually hang freely so you can work with it and simply get it done
Now this applies to the rear only
hope this helps

1988 Lincoln Town Car All Part Groups   

how to instol window regulator gear plugs

The most difficult part is removing the window motor. On most of these applications there are 3 bolts/screws holding the motor to the regulator. 2 are usually visible and the 3rd requires drilling to access (should be a dimple where you need to drill the sheet metal).

Copy and paste the following link into your address bar. Scroll down to see an image of the gear and placement of the gear plugs-

http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/motormite/165-170_W_Part2.pdf

The teeth on the gears are usually fine and all you need is to install new plugs. Lubricate as necessary (white lithium grease preferred).

1987 Lincoln Town Car Engine   

My 1987 town car has very erratic idle to the point of stalling on occasion and it seems to also effect the high speed (fourth gear)shift causing in and out engagement of fourth gear. The previous owner had informed me of the same issue but only when car reached warm temperature and then stall unless he beared down or feathered the accelerator.He also informed of an odd smokey looking odor from tailpipes and would not quit till he shut down engine after driving.Please help!Much Thanks,Steve

Are you still getting the smell from the tail pipe? Any smoke from the exhaust, if yes what color?

Check for vacuum leaks, as this is a major cause of idle problems.

Does the engine run well above idle?

Is the check engine light?

The throttle position sensor (TPS) could also cause all the concerns you mentioned. Temporarily unplug it and see if the idle stabilizes. Note- this will set a trouble code in the vehicles computer.

1987 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The car start ok when its cold (like in the morning) after driving the car and it heats up a bit if i shut the car off abd re-start after like 5 minuits it will not start. by not start i mean turning the kesy does not crtank over the starter. If i wait until the car cools off a bit it starts and everything is ok.
I have a new battery and i just changed the electronic ignition modul located on the distributor.

any ideas.

I would check all the wires going to the starter make sure you got a good ground and that all the connections are good. A bad connection can cause an arc causing things to get hot and some parts not to work.
Heavychevy

.

..

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your town car.
Heavychevy

1985 Lincoln Town Car Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Hi, the fuel gauge on my 1985 lincoln town car is digital and flashing what does that mean? it was working fine the other day, in the book it tells me to bring to dealer.

It means a fault has been detected in the circuitry. You may have to take it to the dealer as they have the diagnostic equipment to communicate with the computer. First you can try inspecting the wiring to the fuel tank (shorts, breaks, corrosion, etc). You can also try disconnecting the battery for five minutes and depressing the brake pedal, reconnect to see if resetting the system will help.

Thank You. I will try that.

1985 Lincoln Town Car Ignition System   

Car will not turn over after it has been driven. If I wait about 15 minutes it will start up again but then once I drive it, the engine will barely turn over and will not start. Negative wire to battery will smoke and negative wire to starter solenoid will get very hot. Have changed starter, starter solenoid, voltage regulator, alternator. Feels like alternater is not charging but and this is a week old rebuilt alternator. Same problem with the old alternator. Once the alternator was changed, the car worked fine for about a week and then the problem started up again. If I jump the battery, the car will start.

With engine cold, turn engine over by hand, noticing the resistance felt. Next time it does the 'no hot statr' thing, try turning the engine over by hand again Notice if there is increased resistance.
Carefully check battery cable connections at battery, solenoid and starter.See if there are anything unusual in cable, such as cuts or bulges.Ensure all connections are clean and shiny.
With engine running, hold a screwdriver against rear bearing of alternator. Its about 1 1/4" dia and protrudes about 1/4". There should be strong magnetic pull.Weak or no pull on screwdriver = bad alt.

1983 Lincoln Town Car Fuel System Won't Start  When cold

This car has a 5.0L TBI engine. It won't start when cold most times. Every once in a while, after cranking forever, it will fire and run. Once the car is running it's fine, and will generally restart fine for up to two hours after it's been warmed up. I've replaced the fuel filter, but not sure what else it could be. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, I've replaced the Ignition Control Module.

Hello, May I suggest you look into the accuracy of your coolant temperature sensor? If it provides an inaccurate cold temperature value (as in warmer than actual), your computer will not call for a rich enough fuel mixture to aide a cold start event.

A fuel rail pressure "Leak-down" test may be needed if the fuel pressure bleeds down too quickly after you turn the engine off. Getting the pressure back up can take awhile because the fuel pump only runs 2 or 3 seconds when you first turn the key on to start the engine The check valve that "holds" the pressure after the key is off is part of the in-tank electric fuel pump.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Sorry for asking stupid questions....

The coolent temp sensor would probably be the least expensive of the solutions to try first. So I'll give that a shot. I guess my reasoning for this is because I would think that after turning the key off 5-10 times and attempting to restart, that the pressure would be up by then.. but I could be way off..

Not really, I have done that very thing (cycling the key to make the pump run several times to build pressure) in my own attempt to start a stubborn car. I have the advantage of a fuel pressure gauge to watch what happens, perhaps you can get to use one too.

Roger