Mazda B2600

1999 Mazda B2600 Windows / Glass   

Passenger side back vent window with catch lock.

Is there a repair question on your mind, or are you shopping for a part?

Roger

The Part only. Passenger side rear window with lock. it is cub cab model.

Please go to the All-Parts.com home page and click on the find parts button. There is no fee for this action.

Write to All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, www.all-parts.com and request that the fee you posted here be refunded.

Mark should take care of you. I will write him as well to be sure he knows what we have discussed.

I thank you,

Roger

1993 Mazda B2600 Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

Hi,

Strange Problem, Intermittent. Mazda not Ford lookalike. 2.6L EFI. Truck drives fine and then all of a sudden it will start missing and backfire. No power and engine dies. When Trying to Start it it start fine but will not idle. or throttle up. It just starts and dies immediately. Eventually after several attempts If I floor it and manage to get it to rev over 3000 RPM it will be fine until it decides to act up again. Any Idea what's wrong. Crank position sensor? PCM?

thanks,

isaac

1

Hello, How old (in miles) is the timing belt?

Roger

76,000 Miles It's a chain and I replaced it roughly 12000 miles ago. I'm a "weekend" mechanic. I know my question is very general as it could be timing or fuel, or any amount of sensors MAF, Idle postion, O2, Crank Postion or Cam Shaft Position or even the ECM or PCM as Mazda likes to call it. I'm think more towards the line of timing or a sensor that controls the timing. I'm kinda hoping that someone had some experience with this exact problem. With out having the Diagnostics Computer it will be tough trying to find the faulty part especially since its intermittent. Anyways any help would be great.

thanks,

isaac

I have not had this exact problem. You may release the question for others to answer if you wish.

Does the service engine soon light come on when the engine starts missing and backfires? Can you check for codes?

Without the diagnostic computer you can still verify fuel pressure, change the fuel filter if you cannot blow through it.

When the condition is present can you spray starting fluid into the intake and get the engine to run better/longer temporarily than without it?

Without test equipment results I too am limited to help.

Roger

Hello, Still want/need help?

Roger

Hey Roger,

Haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I got some starting fluid like you suggested, to help determine if it's fuel or spark. will let you know??? not sure how this works this is my first time trying out this service.

thanks,

isaac

Okay, tell me where/if I can assist you. I'm trying to keep up.

Roger

Hey Roger,

Thanks for the replies(help?), anyways thanks! I figured out the problem it was with the Computer. I kinda figured it cause when it happened it was like you turn off the key. So I decided to open the ECM and found a dried out and exploded electrolitic Capacitor. I found an old one of similar value and replaced it now it works fine..whoohooo!! those studic ECM are like $1400. (yikes!)I got lucky on this one.

thanks again,

isaac

Great job, Sir! Do you wish to close this question?

Roger

1993 Mazda B2600 Fuel System   

1993 B2600i 5spd 4x4 w/160k miles... vehicle starts easily... after about 15 min engine starts to misfire... tachometer displays erratic movement...putting in the clutch and attempting to rev the engine to keep it running works for a few seconds.... then the engine dies like your turned off the key...it also sounds like a relay clicks (on the drivers side under the dash).
Attempting to restart sometimes works for a few seconds...then it dies again...this keeps repeating... After the vehicle is left to cool for an hour it starts...but the sequence repeats itself...The distributor cap ,rotor, and ignition module (located below the power steering pump have all been replaced... I am looking for direction to solve this problem I think it may be fuel related but I am open to suggestions
Thanks

The maf (airflow sensor) could be the problem, but it is expensive so let's hope not.

You had the right idea checking the ignition components. Now move on to the fuel system. When the engine won't start spray a Small Amount (keep it safe) of throttle body cleaner into the throttle body or a large vacuum hose and see if the engine will start.

Alternative methods for trouble shooting including heating or cooling suspected components individually to duplicate the hot (will not run) or cold (will run condition). Your local electronics store (radio shack) sell a component cooler product that can be used to cool things (maf and the distributor electronics; cam/crank sensor) quickly.

What about the coolant temp sensor, the fuel filter or the fuel pump fuse as possible issues

Unplug the coolant sensor and you'd know right away, not likely to keep the engine from running but possible.

Fuel filter is possible, especially if it is overdue for tune-up.

Short of trying one thing after another without a clear direction...are there any definitive steps I could take... (and in what sequence) to diagnose the problem... Are there any sources of tech bulletins to check for an anomoly like this...

I would start by checking the distributor electronics. If the tach is getting wacky (not displaying accurate readings) the distributor sensor may be failing at operating temperature. It generally takes expensive test equipment to view the sensor signal (in the case of an inaccurate signal). Alternatively you can cool/heat the sensor to mimic a warm or cool engine (everything else stays the same temp, you manipulate the suspect component).

The maf sensor possibility came from a bulletin, although this should not effect tachometer operation (it should still report accurate rpm's.

1992 Mazda B2600 Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

The HOLD light on the dash is flashing. When it is flashing the pickup will turn over but will not start. It does not seem to have spark either. After a period of time you can turn the ignition and the light will not come on and the pickup will start and run fine.

diesel or gas

it is a gas engine.

is this the origional key or a duplicate

We have used both the original key and duplicates.

do you have a hold button somewhere close to shifter

Yes there is a hold button on the shifter. I have pushed it on and off several times and it makes no difference. It just seems strange that this would effect the spark of the engine.

unplug it

Tried it and it didn't work. While iI was working on the truck and trying different things, the HOLD light went off. I started yhe truck and let it run for several minutes. I shut the truck off and now it will not start again.

Have you checked the trouble codes? This should be your first step. If you disconnect the battery (erases codes and resets system) does the engine start? If it does it should be storing a useful trouble code when the problem is present.

Keep in mind the hold light may be a result of the other problem and not the cause.

I did check the engine codes and none were present. I went ahead a disconnected the battery, but to no avail. I am sure that the blunking hold light means something, I just cannot find anyone that knows what it is. Please keep sending ideas and iI will keep trying. Thanks for the help.

Sometimes there is a self test method for these codes (from the hold light/trans) too. With a self test method or a scanner, the codes can accessed.

In the drivers side of the engine compartment are two green wire plugs. The single wire is for the engine codes and I believe that the six wire plug, which only has three wires , is the one for the tranny codes. What I do not know is how to retrieve the codes for the trany. Any ideas? Thanks.

1992 Mazda B2600 Fuel System   

Have fuel to jnjector rail but not passing through injectors.Fuses seem to be ok as well as electrical connections.Engine runs when spraying starting fluid in air intake only.

Hello, What is the fuel pressure please? Do you have power to the injector connectors Blk/Yel with the key ON? The Fuel Inj Fuse is in the main fuse block.

If the fuse is good but there is no power to the injectors check the Main Relay.

Check Crank Angle Sensor in the distributor.

Roger

new fuel pump no voltage to injectors new distributor

If the fuse is good but there is no power to the injectors check the Main Relay.

The Main Relay when energized supplies power to the fuel injectors.

Roger

1992 mazda b2600,where is main relay located? Thanks;

On the right front corner of the engine compartment behind the battery.

Wire colors are one Blu-Blk, two Blu-Wht, and one Blk-Yel wires.

Roger

1991 Mazda B2600 Engine Stalling When accelerating Always

I HAVE A 91 MAZDA 2600 I.THIS TRUCK WILL START IDLE VERY WELL BUT HAS NO POWER IT STALLS WHEN PUT IN GEAR. EVEN IN PARK OR NUETRAL I CAN NOT GET THE RPMS OVER 2000 AND THATS TRICKY. THERE HAS BEEN A NEW GAS TANK FUEL PUMP FILTER PLUG WIRES CAP FUEL PUMP PRESURE WAS CHECKED .THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN TO SEVERAL SERVICE CENTERS NO ONE CAN HELP.IT RAN WELL UNTIL THIS THE TRUCK HAS 167000 BUT HAS BEEN MAINTAINED VERY WELL . SO ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.ROOSTER

Hi Rooster,
Here are a few ideas for you. Obviously, it is difficult to fix a car over a computer compared to hands-on.

First check this...Voltage regulators can fail in the computer causing many different drivability or starting problems. Check the reference voltage on the coolant temperature sensor (CTS), intake air temperature sensor (IAT) and throttle position sensor (TPS). Do these tests with a digital volt meter with the connector unplugged.It should be 5v. If less, like around 2.5v, then the computer voltage regulator is faulty. Code 14 is for the atmospheric pressure sensor which is internal to the engine computer and shares the same reference voltage source. Since it is part of the ECM there are no tests for it. Always check the powers and grounds on the engine computer before replacement and make sure all three sensors are unplugged when testing. In most cases the check engine light will not come on but codes will be stored. An analog voltmeter can be used to retrieve codes. Find the 6 pin Green diagnostic connector by the single Green connector. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the Black/Yellow wire, connect the negative voltmeter lead to the Yellow/Black wire, ground the single Green diagnostic connector and then turn the ignition switch to the run position (KOEO). If there are codes present the needle on the analog voltmeter will pulse longs and shorts to indicate fault codes. Example: one long pulse followed by two short pulses=code 12 Codes 9, 11, 12, 14 can all come from a computer that has failed this way.

Secondly, a clogged catalytic converter can cause a problem like this. Try removing the oxygen sensor, or dropping the front pipe and see if it runs any better.

Thirdly, an ignition problem such as a weak coil or a pick-up coil sending a faulty signal can cause this.

I believe you are likely to find the problem in one of these 3 areas.
Dale
[redacted]

1991 Mazda B2600 Fuel System   

I've got no fuel pressure after the gas filter. Pump works, cause I took it out and applied 12 volts to it. Truck was sitting for about a month. Someone left the fuel cap out and it was very rainy during this time. I drained the fuel out and replaced with good fuel. Still no fuel pressure. It has an EFI system. I also removed hoses from the throttle body and some water came out of the hoses. Of course, this is after I got in and turned it over and over and it wouldn't start. The fuel pump relay is good. The 30A fuse for the "fuel inj." is good. Can you help? THank you, Ryan

Disconnect the lines at the throttle body and at the filter.From the throttle body blow compressed air in both the fuel line and the smaller return line. Replace the filter.Rehook up the lines.If you removed all the bad gas from the tank, it should be ok.It might take a little starter fluid or gas in throttle body.Check for spark also.

Thank you, I'll try your recommendation and will let you know how it goes. mahalo for your time.

Okay, so I took off the hose at the top of the throttle body that points toward the rear of the engine compartment. And water just poured out and poured out. Then I realized that the level in the radiator was going down and down. What does that mean? Thank you so much for your help. I can't even begin to tell you how time I spent on it today.

WRONG HOSE! There is an aprox 1/2" diameter coolant line going into and out of the throttle body. It warms the tb on cold days. The fuel line(s)are steel lines going back to the firewall and frame.

God, I feel like a moron. I guess I was confused. There are no fuel lines coming from the throttle body. Did you want me to blow air in the lines to clear them, or to test for something? Sorry for my ineptitude.

You might want to pick up a $15 HAYNES SHOP MANUAL, in order that you might want to id the fuel lines.U R not a moron, unless, of course you are checking fuel lines with a lit cigarette in your hand! lol

1991 Mazda B2600 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a Mazda B2600i 4x4, auto tranny with "HOLD" system. The HOLD light is flashing on dash intermittently and will not start or run during these periods. Is there some part/wire/etc that is causing this?

Here are some possibilities:
Bad computer
Bad main EFI relay
faulty/loose wiring to either of the above.

The HOLD light is coming from the transmission computer seeing a faulty signal from one of its sensors, or from the engine computer. Since it is not starting at that same time, we will suspect something related to the engine computer or one of its sensors.

Check to see if you have spark when the truck won't start. A failed distributor, or faulty power to the distributor could give these symptoms. Check to make sure there is 5V going to the Throttle Position sensor (at the time when it won't start. If not, look at the computer or EFI relay.

1990 Mazda B2600 Ignition System   

did a tune up on truck...3 days later after i was driving the truck stopped got out for about 30 min. go back in started the truck and would not accelerate. Will idle somewhat ok however if you try to accelerate the truck will die. However will start again and idle.

Any check engine light while the engine is idling?

The most common cause of this condition (absent check engine light) is lack of fuel pressure (plugged filter or fuel pump failure). A gauge is needed to check fuel pressure. Autozone or Advance Auto may have a gauge as part of their tool loaner program, call ahead.

There are two other problems that cause this condition. One is a restricted exhaust (plugged converter) and the other is a sensor problem (MAF or TPS). Inspect the large air duct around the MAF (airflow sensor) for any leaks.

Does the check engine light come? Try pushing the gas pedal slightly, enough for the engine to stumble but not stall, and see if this causes the light to come on.

what about the electronic advance system could it have broken

Failure will typically hinder performance severely, but not eliminate functionality in its entirety.

new symptom....the truck was very cold, 4 -5 days without starting it anf temp dropped down near 30 degrees. truck started and had a very high idle, i could accelerate the truck as soon as the truck dropped to low idle speed could no longer accelerate.

Try unplugging the coolant temperature sensor and see if it makes any difference.

truck will not even start now after waiting for these many days, It does however smell like gas under the hood now that I've tried to start it and it did not start. It is changing on me all the time

I got the truck started ...I waited a day and it started... I unplugged the coolant sensor and had no effect.I played more with it. The truck idles about 1200 rpm seems like where it wants to idol. I can very slowly increase the rpm's to 2000, then the engine stumbles and the engine drops the idol back down to about 850 rpm. If I touch the gas pedal it immediately goes back to the 1200 rpm. This is very repeatable

where is the mechanic?

Okay, unplugging the coolant sensor should of caused the check engine light to come on, did it?

Have you tested the TPS-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/19/fc/3a/[redacted] fc3a/repairInfoPages.htm?

Copy and Paste the above link into your address bar. Also note the page will contain links for testing other sensors that may be the problem (IE- MAF sensor.)

I need to apologize first for not getting you the engine check light information the first time you asked.
This time I unplugged the coolant sensor before i did anything else. I started the truck and was able to drive it, however I never got any engine check light, all the light were off except the brake light, when I released the emergency brake it also went off. I measured the temp sensor was very low in resistance






the truck for about 10 minutes

Hello,

Did part of your message cut off?

no

Next move on to the airflow (maf) sensor.

It is also possible you have a computer problem because the vehicle will not run once warmed.

My truck is running good right now however I got no indication on the check eng light. Is there another problem.It looks like this was input to the computer and the resistance was so low it was off the chart so Maybe it was telling the computer not to let the truck run so it won't harm the motor.

Did you change the sensor or leave it unplugged?

What was it reading?

It may of been so low that it was leaning out the fuel mix enough to hinder performance severely.

Use the following chart-

http://www1.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] d800b991e.gif

How do you results compare to aproximate temperatures?

when cold it was .09 ohmns on the 200k scale when it got warm it only when done to .03 ohmns on the same scale. I replaced the sensor and it runs good. However still no service light indicator when sensor is unpluged

Does the indicator light come on when the key is turned on (bulb)?

I don't think so but I will double check

Okay, that would explain it.

I rechecked the engine chk light it on with key on off with truck running. Truck worked great for 2 days.

Today it did the same thing it will not accelorate. Was driving the truck everything was working good, stoped the truck shut it off. when i tried to start it started but will not accelerate engine check light is out. it never comes on.. i even tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor still no light still won't accerate

where is my mechanic???????????

The MAF (airflow sensor) is next on the list.

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/19/fc/0[redacted] fc02/repairInfoPages.htm

Have you tested this?

No I have not checked the MAF sensor but I will if you still think it necessary after what I tell you. Just before checking the MAF and the truck had been sitting for 2 days I wanted to see if the service engine light was still off and everything was like it was when I last checked. IT was not I turned on the key the chk light came on and I started the truck. Everything seems to work just fine now. I drove the truck for about 1 hr still works good. Is there another sensor that may effect the truck when hot

MAF (documented to be a somewhat common failure) and TPS. You may wish to document test results when the trucks runs fine then compare against results when the problem is present.

A quick search on ebay revealed two used MAF's ready to expire today that have not been bid on (.99 plus 8-9 dollars shipping as of the hour). The first is 'Guaranteed' although that is no indication that they know it works.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-93-MAZDA-B2600-MASS-AIR-FLOW-SENSOR-G601-E5T50371_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33557QQihZ004QQitemZ[redacted] QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-93-MAZDA-B2600i-MPV-AIR-FLOW-SENSOR-METER-90-91-92_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33557QQihZ007QQitemZ[redacted] QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Is it a good idea to to install these parts used? Answer- No, but that is a heck of a price verse new and could be used just for test purposes-- if you could change it quick enough when the problem appeared.

I'm still not sure if you have checked the fuel pressure?

1989 Mazda B2600 Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When turning Always

I have a straight 4 manual 4x4. I stop the car, put it in neutral and switch it to 4H with the clutch still in. whether it is in 4H or 4L the car makes a clanking noise when I turn left or right and it affects the steering. It sounds like if I keep steering in that direction I will break something off. When I put the car back in 2 wheel drive it will do the same thing until I just stop the car totally and let it idle for a few minutes.

Does it go away completely once you have re-established two wheel drive?

How does it effect the steering?

it will goes away completely after i have idled the car in two wheel drive for a few mintues. the steering is flawless in two wheel drive it is just 4x4 that gets me. when in 4x4 i can still steer and i havent lost any functionality but it is just that it makes the noise. i could still use the car i just havent because it feels like i could break something.

1989 Mazda B2600 Engine Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

I own an 89 Mazda B2600I 4X4. It runs great until it gets warm it feels like it starves for gas. I was told the fuel pump in the tank was bad and had 35psi when cold but then had 11-12 when in closed loop operation. When I turn the key off for a few seconds and restart the engine it runs fine again for a few minutes and then goes to sputtering. Any ideas on what causes this?

If your fuel pressure drops from 35 to 11 psi, you definitely have a fuel supply problem. It is most likely the pump, but a fuel filter or the strainer/sock in the tank can cause the same symptoms.

1989 Mazda B2600 Engine   

This truck still overheats after 15 minutes of driving. The radiator was replaced with a larger one and a larger fan. I am now runnig it without a thermostat. I have put on a new head and have no leaks. What else can I do?

you can inspect your water pump to make sure it is not a problem.
Did you flush out the engine before the repair?
It is possible that you have a cracked block ,are you losing any fluids at all?
what were the problems before you put on a new head?
some history will help me to see where you are and where we can go from here.
what engine do you have

A new head was put on a year ago, and the engine itself was overhauld 2 years ago. A radiator shop said the water pump is fine and water is flowing fine. I am new owner of this vehicle and taking the word of the seller. It is a 159 liter engine. Years ago I had a similar old Mazda 4x4 with the same problem and was never able to solve the problem. The radiator shop wants to put a larger fan on with the cowling, but they also want $500. Where should I start?
Tom

This could be a possible thermostat proble, since a brand new thermostat is cheap anyhow it will not hurt to put one in, if this does not solve your problem, have someone pressure test the cooling system, if this vehicle has a pressurized over flow tank a very minute air leak at the top of the canister can cause this kind of over heating.

1988 Mazda B2600 Engine   

Motor "shakes" back and forth when started. Loss of power going uphill.

Does it happen cold as well as hot?

If yes, when was the last tune-up? New spark plugs, wires, dist. cap & rotor, fuel filter, etc.

The shaking is often caused by a misfire. A misfire is most often caused by a failing tune-up component.

Get back to me.

When you first start it, it shudders badly, but when driving, you don't notice it. My husband changed the plugs, not sure about the wires. He also changed the timing belt at that time.

Have him check for vacuum leaks as well as the idle speed motor (it may only need cleaning). If the egr valve is sticking opening this will also cause a sever idling problem and/or stalling at idle.

1987 Mazda B2600 Engine   

I saw in another question not to use the 2.6 motor mitsubishi built for chrysler. What is the difference and why is it a bad choice and I guess the main question would it even bolt up? What about the 2.6 they used in the D50 as that was a mitsubishi truck?

I've noticed that no one is picking up on your question. I don't know the answer pertaining to bolt up compatibility as I've never had reason to try this route.

I am writing to tell you that I had a D50 truck with the Mitsubishi engine and it was a money pit. That engine was horrible and always had problems with the valve train. Just felt compelled to tell you my story.

You are welcome to release the question so that others can offer something additional to my comments. It's whatever you prefer...

Roger

Hello, Still need/want help?

Roger