Mazda Millenia

2001 Mazda Millenia Engine Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

I have a 2001 millenia s (2.3 miller cycle) with 60,000 miles on it that hesitates from a dead stop for about 3 full seconds before taking off. It does not do this the first couple of times when the engine is cold and the idle is still high (first stop or two). If I let off the gas even at high speeds and then punch it, it also hesitates before taking off. I took it in to the mazda dealership and they told me it was the injectors. They flushed them thourghly as my wallet (charged me $400) and told me that if that didn't work I'd need new ones ($2800). I've always used premium gas and add the chevron additive techlotron stuff to the gas every so often to keep the injectors clean. Is there something I'm missing before I do a total injector change out? Please help...

$400- wow. That should of just about covered new injectors (although I haven't checked actual prices) and installation.

Does the check engine light ever come on while the engine is running?

Hold off on the injector swap for now. Strongly consider a second opinion if you can find an independent shop with a good reputation.

The check engine light does not come on. We only have one mazda dealership (McCurley Mazda) in my area (Richland, WA). I am hesitant on taking it somewhere else because not many mechanics work or are familiar to the 2.3L Miller cycle engine

Fuel injectors are listed by aftermarket supppliers for this engine (naturally at significant savings vs dealer). Is changing the injectors something you'd attempt yourself? The same instructions the Mazda dealership uses are available on the internet from Mazda (not free but reasonable compared to dealership prices).

It's impossible to diagnose the problem from here, but there is no evidence against the dealer attacking the problem by selling the most expensive services and parts to remedy the problem. Did you notice any difference after injector cleaning? It would be interesting to unplug the coolant sensor and see if the problem remained when the computer didn't know the actual engine temperature.

Search the iATN website for an auto tech in your area. This is a large network of mechanics that share information. Call the repair shop and ask if they have experience with your engine.

I would'nt attempt to change the injectors myself on this engine. I tried putting one foot on the gas and one on the brake and bringing the engine up to about 1500rpms. I then let my foot off the brake and stomped on it. It accelerated fine. Although bringing it up from ~600rpm (it's idle) to 1500rpm it hesitated while my foot was both on the brake and gas. The cleaning of the fuel injectors did nothing. I found a iATN technician down the street from my house (Richland Auto Care) and will try to get it in over the next couple weeks. His certified tech is on vacation. They will charge me by the hour he said.

The technician found no codes present. Engine controls working within specs.
They hear back fire in the intake when it happens, the O2 sensors show lean and that will cause the symptom.
They find no diagnostic aids without trouble codes present.
What next????

Did they check for past codes that may have been reset when the injectors were cleaned?How about any air leaks around the intake manifold or vaccum lines?Past codes may lead to ideas as to what is causing the present problem.An overly lean O2 sensor kind of tells me there may be an influx of air entering the combustion chamber,possibly from a leak.This is definetly a repair that I would seek out a qualified "mechanical geek" to try and retrieve past codes.Much like your home computer,when you erase a file,it's still on the hard drive.It just takes a little know how to get it back.The $2800 the dealership wants to charge you for injector changeout would most likely pay for a re-man motor.You may find that the shop charging by the hour will be a little costly as this may take a little time to properly diagnois,but I think if they have the proper equipment and a good tech,it will fall much less than the dealer.
Good Luck,
Paul

1999 Mazda Millenia Engine   

The check engine lamp is on. The technishian checked the engine with the tester and said that the codes are 171 and 173. What does it mean? How much can be repair? Is it urgently to do it?

Both codes refer to a fuel system malfunction. Most likely it is failed oxygen sensors. Postponing the repair will give you poor performance, poor fuel economy and may start to damage the catalytic converter. There is no major immediate consequence for not repairing it. The cost of the repair may run between 3-600 depending on the number of sensors needed and the quality of the sensor installed. It is recommended to replace them every 100,000 miles whether the light is on or not.

Thank you

No problem.

1997 Mazda Millenia Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Millenia S, intermittant engine stop, speedo drops to zero and back up when engine catches, obd 1601 showing now, sometimes no start fixed by putting in neutral, seems to react to turn signal / brakes on, I am thinking grounding problem?

Start by checking the connector at the module. Inspect for loose/corroded pins. Let me know what you find.

Also try wiggling the wiring seeing if you can recreate the stall and catch the trouble spot.

You mean the ECU under the console?

Yes.

Hi Douglas,

Turns out the problem was resolved with a new battery. Strange that it would cause the engine to cut out.

thanks,
Jim

Hello,

Glad to hear it was something that you normally replace anyway. The problem was most likely the terminal at the battery. Make sure battery terminal protector was used to prevent repeat failure.

1996 Mazda Millenia Fuel System Stalling When idling No pattern

i recently upgraded to premium fuel, which is the recommended fuel, now my car stalls when idling, at traffic lights and is not very responsive when stepping on the accelorator

Lets start simple. It may be the computer just needs to be reset. To do this, remove the electric connection to the battery and leave it for 10 minutes disconnected. Then reattach and start the car, go for a drive. Let me know what happens. This is the easy shot... next is a little more complicated. AL

ok i have tried that and it still does that same thing, i have also added a carborator and fuel injection treat mean and it is still doing the same thing, could it be the air flow sensor as well

Ok now it is time to look at your Idle Speed Control (ISC) or it may be called the Idle Air Control (IAC). This controls the amount of air when the engine is at idle. The IAC is located on the side of the throttle body and is held inplace by either 2 or 3 8mm bolts. Once you have removed it plug in the wiring harness and have someone turn the key on and off... see if the plunger assembly moves. If it does then the IAC is ok if not it needs replaced. Let me know if I can help more. AL

i have tried that, according to your reply, it is fine, and the car still does the exact thing, is there anything else it could be like a fuel filter or fuel pump, or maybe and air sensor

There was a reason that you started to use the High Grade of fuel. Apparently the car started to run bad and you went to the better grade. I am sorry I did not ask. Lets change the fuel filter. Be careful not to loose the two fittings (one on top one below) that look like bolts. They are called banjo fittings and have a copper crush gasket on top and below the fuel fitting. These copper gaskets need to be replaced with the fuel filter to prevent leakage. Loosen the top and bottom fittings before loosening the filter from the firewall. Let me know how things go from there. AL

"There was a reason that you started to use the High Grade of fuel. Apparently the car started to run bad and you went to the better grade. I am sorry I did not ask. Lets change the fuel filter. Be careful not to loose the two fittings (one on top one below) that look like bolts. They are called banjo fittings and have a copper crush gasket on top and below the fuel fitting. These copper gaskets need to be replaced with the fuel filter to prevent leakage. Loosen the top and bottom fittings before loosening the filter from the firewall. Let me know how things go from there. AL"

no more questions

1996 Mazda Millenia Engine Malfunction Happens always Always

2.3L, supercharged. Motor blew, replaced with "remanufactured" one. Runs great for a few minutes, then will not go over 2000 RPMs. Turn ignition off, restart, car runs fine for a few minutes, repeat. Have replaced sensors. It's been on 2 different Mazda dealerships computers and they can't find anything. Been without the car for 6 months. Thanks, Bill

We need additional information on your problem.

Was same problem present before engine replacement or did it appear after replacement?

Can you list what sensors have been replaced? Has the cars computer been replaced (I'm not telling you to replace it, just curious)?

Who replaced engine; dealer, reputable garage, DIYer, salvage yard?

Also does the check engine light come on when the engine is running?

The problem did not show up until after the motor had been replaced. We reused the original super charger. We replaced 4 sensors on the exhaust side and a solenoid/sensor on the top side of the motor. The ECM was swapped out and then the original was put back in when the problem returned with the replacement installed. It was replaced by a reputable garage.(35+ years in business)

Has exhaust back pressure been checked?


When you say the engine will not go over 2k rpms, do mean it stalls past 2k or 2k is with the pedal to the floor?

1996 Mazda Millenia All Part Groups  When driving Always

The tcs on/off, and check engine light are always on. The hold light constantly stays on, and the car jerks violently when you are first pulling off when going between 10-40 mph. I just had the transmission replaced. Sometimes the it does not jerk at all. Also need to know where I can get a the electric fuel and trunk release that is located on the drivers side door. It opens the fuel door and the trunk. The trunk also does will not stay up, it just drops. Any suggestions to fixing these problems would be very much appreciated.

The first thing you need to do is find out which troublecodes are stored in the computer. If you visit an Autozone or Advance Auto (there are likely other chain stores as well- call ahead) they offer free trouble code retrieval. Get the trouble codes and let me know what they are.
Note- I'll need the actual trouble code designations, eg P0300, p0401, etc and NOT the part stores description of the code.

Is the transmission under warranty?

Is this the same problem that led to transmission replacement?

Ok I will go and get the codes and let you know. No, this is not what happened the last time the transmission went out.

The transmission is under warranty. The error code is P0715-Input/Turbine Speed Sensor A Circuit Malfunction.

Okay, tell the repair shop you had diagnostics done and an electrical problem was found with their transmission. Hopefully they have good service after the sale.

On the trunk it sounds like the support arms leak down and will need replacing.

If you go to the all-parts.com home page and click on 'find parts' under 'Auto Recylers' you can request the fuel and trunk release switches from salvage yards. I assume you are trying to avoid high dealer costs? If you have no luck locating the parts, let me know and I'll look to see if I can find anything.

Thanks about the trunk and fuel door release. I will look at the salvage yards. I got the transmission form a junk yard and my brother put it in. So I guess now I will have to spend the money to have a shop do it. So that error code is an electrical problem with the transmission? Will I have to get a new one, or can it be rebuilt?

What do I do about the support arms on the trunk?

I will check tomorrow and see if I can find the parts you need from an aftermarket supplier, if availabe this should substantially reduce the price.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Below is a link you can copy and paste into your address bar. The link illustrates the components of the trunk. If the illustration matches your car it appears there are balance bars for the trunk instead of strut style support arms as I'd mentioned. These will need to be checked.

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] 564b.gif

If the link does not work for you, I'll send a direct link if you leave your email address.

I must apologize for missing your previous response. You simply need to visit a shop that can perform electrical diagnosis, there is no reason to think the transmission will need rebuilding. Ask around to find a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. If there is an Ammco in your area find out if they have a good reputation locally, they should have someone qualified for the repair, and usually offer a free estimate (don't let anyone sell you a new transmission- get a second and third opinion first).

Please let me know how things turn out.

Hello Douglas,

You were 100% right. It was a simple wiring problem. There was a sensor wire not hooked up correctly. It was reattached and the car runs fine. Now, I need to locate the air bypass valve. I think that is the reason why the TCS lights are staying on. Also can you please help me find the electric trunk/fuel release for my car. I cannot find anything in my area. Thanks again for all of your help.

I went to the all-parts locator here on your site and could not find the trunk/fuel door release.

Okay, this may be a dealer only item- unless you can find it used. I'll continue searching and get back to you in a day or two.

I'm glad the transmission problem was simple!

1996 Mazda Millenia All Part Groups   

I love this car. But, at some point after warming up and driving along it shuts off. It can be while I'm driving 60 mph or stopped at a light. I have to wait a few minutes and it will start up again. No one can get it to duplicate this malfunction in the shop.

Its a 1995 Millenia

Have you have the computer trouble codes checked? Advance Auto and Autozone will do this free of charge. Let me know which codes they find, example- P0300, p0301, etc.

than codes you will need to check a couple things during the no start period. Do you hear the fuel pump run when you initially turn the key on (for about 2 seconds) and during engine cranking? Normally you will (it sounds like a buzzing or humming from the gas tank).

If you do not hear the fuel pump you will need to check for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period.

Also, confirm the check engine light is coming on with the key in the on position during the no start period.

This will help to narrow the problem down.

Thanks for the response. I will have the codes checked out. Not sure about fuel pump - I will confirm. The check engine light and the TCS OFF light
is on all the time. I will respond in a day or two with the codes.

Okay, if it stalls again confirm the check engine light comes on when the key is on (engine not running or cranking). If not the system is not 'powered up', this is usually not the case but cannot be overlooked.

1995 Mazda Millenia Engine Malfunction Happens always Always

Check engine light stays on

You need to have the trouble codes scanned.
Many autozone stores will scan your car for free. Call ahead. They may want to know if your car is OBD2 compliant.
To determine if your car is OBD2 look at the diagnostic connector, it is displayed here-

http://www.obdii.com/connector.html


The troublecode(s) gives a starting point in the diagnostics.

1995 Mazda Millenia Engine Stalling When driving When warm 

The car continues to stall when driving down the road or when stopped, usually when warm, but sometimes will not start when it's been parked for a short while either. Does not always start up again right away. REplaced distributor, fuel filter and a grounding strap? and still is stalling and then sometimes not starting. Occasionally it will hesitate and seems to be sputtering and will recover, only to stall shortly after some time. What could this be? It's driving me crazy!

Does the check engine light come on while the engine is running?

Have you listened to see if the fuel pump runs (while cranking the engine) during the no start period? Also check for spark during the no start period. Let me know what is missing.

How long has this been happening, don't overlook bad gas.

How would I be able to tell if the fuel pump is running? Does it make a particular sound? It is getting spark. It has been happening since we bought the car a few months ago (didn't happen on the test drive, of course, or the 2-1/2 hour drive home after) but since the replacement of the distributor and fuel filter (and now using premium gas since then also) it hasn't stalled while driving at higher speeds down the road anymore, but acts more like a flooded carburetor. After it stalls though, it might not start again for several minutes. While it's in the stall mode it seems to fire for a couple of revolutions; this can go on for anywhere from five minutes to three hours, but usually lasts the shorter duration.

You said it acts like a flooded carburetor, hold the accelerator to the floor and try starting (this procedure is the same with carbs and FI). Does it start better?

The fuel pump makes a humming sound in the gas tank. Make sure you have your seat belt on, fan, radio, etc turned off so you can hear it. Use an assistant if necessary.

1995 Mazda Millenia All Part Groups  Happens always Always

The car smokes alot when its first started. It seems to be the oil seals on the valve stems?? Because after 10-15 min of driving the smoke goes away, but once sitting for a period it starts smoking again. Any idea of how much it will cost to be repaired??

Valve guide seals can be replaced without major disassembly of the engine. But, is it the right thing to do?

How many miles on this one? What engine, please? Any other problems that concern the engine?

Please advise,

Roger

miller cycle v6dohc mil 126000

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

I don't understand "miller cycle". I do understand V6 DOHC and 126,000 miles.

What is miller cycle?

Roger

Miller Cycle Engine(V6 DOHC)is the type of engine that is in the car. Its a supercharger intake that is factory produced. Thats the type that the owners manual gives.

I will send you a seperate email with a picture from the manual.What email address should I send it to?

All-Parts policy prevents me from posting my email on this site. I'm sorry.

I'll talk to Mazda tomorrow. They will set me straight and I'll advise their recommendation for smoke on engine start after a cold soak period.

Thanks,

Roger

I became ill and was out of the loop for a week. Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

yes, valve guides? i think cost?

It is hard for me to estimate from here. Your local shops should be able to you provide you an estimate on the phone.

I do note that Mazda has a new part number for valve guide seals for your engine. Who ever your supplier for parts will surely have this updated information particularly if a Ford Motor Company source.

I recommend a compression test be done before replacing the valve guide seals to evaluate the condition of the combustion chamber. If a problem with the valves is identified or suspected a valve job may instead be the way to go.

Roger

Hello, Did you get my last message?

Roger

1995 Mazda Millenia Engine Stalling When driving When warm 

My 1995 Mazda Millenia stalls while driving. Then sometimes starts right up and other times starts after several attempts. Have replaced fuel filter, rotor,distributor, plugs, plug wires, and air filter with no effect. I have heard there is a sensor that can be unplugged that will cure the problem. Have you heard this and if so which sensor would it be?

There are several sensors that could fall into play here.A MAP,TPS and O2 come to mind off the top of my head.Unpluging one of these my help lead to the right conculsion,but leaving it unpluged may take you into futher problems by having it send false codes to the ECU.The ECU may try to overcorrect in another area thus adding more stress to the system.I would most likely scan the system for any problematic codes and follow the flow charts for any codes retrieved.You may check with one of your local chain store parts providers.I understand some offer this service for free or at a nominal charge.It would most likely be better to spend the money doing this than to just start throwing parts at it.
Good Luck,
Paul

Ruling out the work I have had done and it not being a sensor, what other conditions could cause this? Thanks!

I'd be lying to you if ther was something other than what I described to you.Understand that the Mazda rotary power engine is prone to cause problems that a conventional motor can or will not do.Without a hands-on diagnosis which would include scanning of the system its very hard to try and pinpoint casual cause from this side of the screen.I understand you have already done some work on the vehicle but if there is some type of system code or the engine is just getting tired I would look into the areas where I could resolve the problem before it got any greater.
Good Luck,
Paul

1995 Mazda Millenia Engine Hesitating When accelerating Always

recently my millenis 2.5 started overheating. I took off the thermostat and sure enough it was stuck. I replaced it and the car would run fine at idol and when you accelerated it would jerk and stall and the rpm's would go crazy and the lioghts would flick on and off in the car. Now the car will not turn over at all, the lights come on when the ignition is turned and every now and them the call will try to crank but will not fire. Then you have to turn it off and let it sit and ot takes a while for the sah lights to turn off and then it seems to reset itself and do it all over again? any sugestions?

could this be a bad computer?

from your symtoms and results while trying to start the car the best thing for you to do is have a diagnostic done on the car You can pull the stored codes I believe that they can be retrieved
since you can still get ignition
If you do not have a scanner ,one can be rented at any auto parts store along with the info to tell what the codes mean
you could have a problems ranging from a blown head gasket to multiple shortings in your wiring harness from the hot engine melting the insulation.
At this point it is crucial that you get as complete a check-up on your car as possible
I hope this helps
Macconneck

I took the car when it would run to 2 auto parts stores that had scanners, they hooked it up and it said codes found then they went to print the codes and they would not print on their system, they said their software only would read and print OBD2 codes for 96 and newer cars and since my Millenia is a 95 it was OBD1 and their system couldnt read it. If i take it to somewhere that does emissions testing its an 80 dollar charge to just run the system test, is their no option that doesnt require me spending 80 bucks just to get the codes read?

Yes you can buy or rent a scanner for your car it is a very handy tool to have with your veheicle if you plan to keep it a while
hope this helps
Macconneck

1995 Mazda Millenia Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Everytime I start the engine the AC is automatically turned on and the clock reads 1:00. This is the case even if I had turned the AC off. When I shut the engine off I can no longer lock the doors unless I turn the key to ignition on.

Check battery cables, grounds, terminals, etc. Clean and tighten as necessary. If this does not help the problem is likely to be in the ignition switch or chassis module (requires a capable scan tool to troubleshoot).

I have checked both battery cables, cleaned and tightened them up. Problems still exist, I will take it to a mechanic that could check into the the other two items you suggested. Thank you.

Okay, please let me know what they find. I'll stick with you until the problem is solved (or do my best).

Thanks appreciate it. I made an appointment with a shop and they will take it in this Saturday Nov. 3, 2008. I forgot to mention that the bose stereo does not even power on and that the power locks do not fuction once the ignition key is turned off. Used to be able to lock the doors without ignition on. Does sound like it would be the ignition switch. Will let you know. Thanks again!

1995 Mazda Millenia Engine   

2.5 V-6 Idles good/will not accelerate/new fuel filter/pressure at filter 80 lbs./exhaust seems to be flowing okay /o2 sensor code....po155,have not replaced yet/.

P0155 is the heater circuit, should not affect the performance as you describe.

80 psi sounds VERY high, it should be about 40. That reading must be taken while the fuel is flowing through. High pressure can cause it to not accelerate. Check for restrictions, or faulty pressure regulator.

We have 20 in. hg vacumn at the regulator.We applied 15 in. hg vacumn to the regulator with no effect.Can we check the regulator any other way?Regulator cost about $98.00.What is proper way to check fuel pressure?

The fuel pressure gage should be connected to allow the engine to run while watching the pressure reading.

The pump is designed to pump more fuel and pressure than is needed, the regulator dumps the excess pressure back to the tank. The regulator is adjusted about 10 psi based on no vacuum, high vacuum or anything in between. The fuel flows from the pump , through the filter, past the injectors, through the regulator and back to the tank.

If your pressure is truly that high, and you need to pinpoint the point of restriction, remove the hose leaving the regulator. If there is no flow when the key is turned on, the regulator is no good. If flow is there, you could have a restriction between the regulator and the tank.

Still will not rev up.It did rev up a time or 2 and engine sounded good /no skip but a little back fire out the intake.Fuel pressure idling-35 lbs./vacumn disconnected 45 lbs.Spec according to mitchell 30-38/38-46 vacumn disconnected.Looks like we are looking in wrong place.Did get some codes.PO 100 Mass air,I think we set that one when we unplugged it running.PO155,P1000,P1345 and P1521.Not sure that is any help.Compression -all 6 cyl.160-180.According to Mitchell should be about 200.Maybe check timing marks?Would it have revved up like it did?

Now your fuel pressure sounds good! Much better than 80psi.

Is this the supercharged engine? They can make such problems with loose, or broken vacuum lines. Look closely at the Ts behind the intake plenum. Use a smoke machine if available to find any leaks.

This is not a super charged engine. Engine will not rev up.

Have you check the timing belt? If the belt has slipped 1-3 teeth, it can still idle, but have no power. I would do this first, then smoke test it for leaks, then work on the codes.

Code P1345 comes from the cam sensor in the distributor. This can cause all sorts of loss in power. I suggest clearing the codes, watching for the light to return, and see which code sets first. Focus on the first appearing code.