Mazda Protege

2003 Mazda Protege Engine   

1. Car started idling rough. 2. Check engine light came on. 3. Car runs like it is missing in 2nd and 3rd gear. 4. Check engine light flashes on and off when moving.

Whenever the check engine light is flashing, you have a misfire taking place. That matches the other 3 symptoms as well.

You most likely have a bad plug, wire or coil. If you want more information, have the car scanned and the code will tell you which cylinder(s) is giving the problem.

2002 Mazda Protege All Part Groups   

The engine has difficulty starting in cold weather. I crank it for about 15 seconds a couple of times and then it starts. Does anybody know where the problem lies?

These can be tough. To start properly in the cold weather-

Tune-up parts must be in good condition.

The right engine oil must be used (on some cars this is more important than others).

The coolant and air temperature sensors must be sending the right information to the computer. If it is 0 degrees out and the coolant sensor tells the computer it is 60 degrees, the computer will provide a rich enough fuel mixture for the problem.

Some gasoline is of poor quality and requires the use of 'dry gas' to start in cold weather. Have you tried this?

Do you get a check engine light while the engine is running?

2002 Mazda Protege Engine   

Our Mazda Protege is having issues starting.

It starts just fine on the first attempt of the day.

After its driven, it will start within 10 minutes of being turned off.

The problem is that once it's been driven --- and it sites for more than about 10 minutes it won't start until it's allowed to sit for a couple of hours.

We've replaced starter "sensors", we've replaced the onboard computer, we've left it at the shop for 2 weeks while they try to figure out what it might be.

Nothing, nadd'a, zip seems to be fixing the problem.

It's not the battery, it doesn't seem to be the starter (the engine cranks and cranks and cranks) and it doesn't seem to be anything that's causing any onboard fault codes --- other than an occassional codde that says "random misfire".

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

The next time this happens hold the accelerator to the floor and see if it starts better. If/when it does start rev the engine and look for any signs of black smoke. This would indicate a flooding condition (holding the accelerator to the floor put it in "Clear Flood Mode"). The two most common problems are the Fuel Pressure Regulator (pull of the vacuum hose and check for the presence of raw gasoline, carefully though- you don't want to leak gas on a hot engine) or Leaking Fuel Injectors. Note- There should be no gasoline whatsoever in exiting the fuel pressure regulator from the vacuum hose.

If this doesn't help and there is no sign of black smoke from the exhaust- check to see if fuel pressure is bleeding off (bad pump/sending unit assembly or fuel pressure regulator. A fuel pressure gauge is needed to monitor fuel pressure. You could try turning the key on for five seconds. Then crank the engine for a couple seconds and stop (leave the key on though). Wait a few more seconds and try again. This will allow the pump to establish fuel pressure. The engine should start now if this is the problem.

Still no go, it is time to check for spark to the spark plugs. This step can be performed at any time, because it is normally the first step in diagnosis for an Engine Cranks but No Start condition. Actually the first step is verifying the check engine light comes on when you first turn on the key (as it normally does).

2001 Mazda Protege Engine   

Mazda protege 2001 always starts cold, but sometimes won't restart after short ride when the engine is already warm. It cranks, but would not fire. If you let it rest for 30 min or so, it would start again. I brought it to service, but they can't reproduce the problem.

Have you tested for spark during the no start period? If you find no spark the crank angle sensor will produce this problem.

Any check engine light at any time while the engine is running?

No, I did not check the spark. I had noticed "check engine" light couple of times when the engine was running, but not at the time when I could not start it. The light would go away by itself and I did not relate it to the issue. Are there any potential alternative causes? I would like to take the car to the service and ask them to replace "prime suspects" but not every possible part to limit my cost. Thank you for your advise.

It is really tough to do. It would help to narrow down the causes if you could check for spark during the failure. You would want to use a spark tester.

It wouldn't hurt to stop by Autozone or Advance Auto and have them access the trouble codes for you, this is a free service. The trouble codes probably won't be of any help, but possibly...

If I had to gamble I'd probably gamble on the crankshaft position sensor. This sensor cost the 60-100 dollars for an aftermarket brand (depending on brand), so I'd have to advise against replacement with diagnostics first.

One thing you could do is try holding the accelerator to the floor and starting the engine (when the problem occurs). This puts the computer (PCM) into clear flood mode. If the engine is actually flooding it will start quicker. Let me know.

2001 Mazda Protege Ignition System   

Sometimes when I park the car will not restart. Once it happened that when I was driving it cut off and would not restart. Have had it towed home a couple of times. However it restarts after sometime (hours) have elapsed and runs perfectly well for a few days before it starts acting up again. We have tried substitute cam and crank sensors. Same problem. When it can't start there is no current from the plugs. Recently changed the plugs and had the injectors cleaned. canged the

When yje 'no start' condition reappears, try testing the ignition switch on the column or testing the terminal marked IGN on the fusepanel.
I am assuming that you are getting no 'check engine' codes. A bad ignition will probably set no codes. A bad crank or can position sensor should set a code. You might want to have it scanned for codes regardless.

Thge test you make is on the small pickup coil beside the ignitor. Across the terminals, it should read [redacted] ohms. The ign coil output should be in the range of [redacted] K-ohms.
I usually replace the pickup coil/ignitor as an assy when the readings are not within range.

Thanks. Does this advice apply to a fuel injected model?
Trevor

All 2001 Mazda Protege's were fuel injected, so yes.
By the way, the use of a test light or an analog (needle type) meter puts excessive loads on the computerised components, and are not as accurate as a digital one.

2000 Mazda Protege Fuel System   

My Mazda Protege hesitates and almost dies at traffic lights. It also hesitates while normal street and highway driving. The Mazda dealership has replace the sparkplugs wires, catalitic converter, and oxygen sensers. Very expensive but it still experiences the same problems.

Any check engine light while the engine is running?

Have they verified proper fuel pressure when the problem is occuring?

How many miles? Did they check to make sure the fuel injectors are not restricted?

The check engine light hasn't come on. There's 145,109 miles.On the IDIAGNOSE WAS WRITTEN.. The diagnostics and code weren't present. DUPLCIATED ROUGH RUN FOUND LON FUEL
MIX AT 25%. MONITORED THE O2 SENSOR AND FOUND THEM UNABLE TO COMPENSATE. COMPRESSION CHECKS FINE. TPS, ECT AND SENSORS CHECK FINE.
CLEARED MEMORY AND IT RUNS FINE FOR A LITTLE THEN RUNS BADLY AGAIN. nEEDS CAT AND SENSORS REPLACE(DAMAGED BY MISSFRES MOST LIKLY)
REPLACE O2 SENSORS AND CAT CONVERTOR.
i WAASN'T CHARGED FOR THIS BECAUSE OF A PARTS WARRENTARY.

I would be looking at the MAF (mass airflow sensor) as these are problematic. If you get lucky you can simply spray the MAF filaments with spray electrical cleaner to restore proper operation. Let me know if you need further instructions on this.

These cars are also noted for problems with the ignition coils.

2000 Mazda Protege Interior Components   

Hello, I closed my glove box in my Mazda Protege ES the other day, and something in the latch mechanism broke. Now, the glove box will not open. I need to get it open, but do not remember exactly what the latch mechanism looks like, or how it functions. How can I "pick" the latch, and when I get it open, where can I purchase a new latch? It is very important that I get it open due to the fact that my lock key for my wheels is inside. Please offer any advise that will help me to get this thing open. My work schedule will not allow time for me to take it to the dealer, so I must do this myself. Please HELP!!!!!
Thanks,
Stuart Pearce

Look under the dash in the box area.There may be a plastic cover covering the screws that hold the box in place.If so remove it and the screws.The box will still be latched but should swing out from the bottom enough to reach up and see if maybe a piece of paper is lodged in the latch and wiggle the box around while tryng the latch to see if it will disingage.If it is a locking latch continually try the key in both positions.If this dosent work you may find you might have to break the latch.Repacement latch woukd have to be ordered thru the dealer.These parts can somtimes be ordered by color using the interior trim code listed on the vehicle.If not it may be a paint to match item.Try the above mentioned first to try and save the bigger one of replacing for last.

I don't know if it is possible to pick the latch on these, perhaps an experienced lock smith could do it. In other words I think it'd take a lot of practice.

Whenever I encounter this sort of problem I pry the glove box partially open (wear safety glasses if you try this). Then you can see in to free the latch or bend the glove compartment enough to free the locking mechanism. Of course there is the risk of damage to the glove box. The only way I can recommend to avoid this is to call a lock smith.

For a replacement latch the dealership is the only place you are likely to find this.

Alternatively you could buy a complete glove box from a salvage yard. If you were able to find the same color glove box, you wouldn't have to worry about damaging the old one. Either way it'd have the latch you need.

things to consider is a can of fix a flat. Also a tire shop should have the key for your wheels (call ahead).

2000 Mazda Protege Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Someone broke into my car to steal the stereo but instead they cut the wires to the hazard light button (flasher switch). The hazard light nor the blinkers were working. I'm on a very tight budget and to avoid paying an electrical company we tried doing it ourselves but somehow we mixed up the colored wires and the blinkers are the only ones working.

Hello,

How many wires were cut? Did you peel the insulation back far enough to properly identify the wire colors?

Be sure to check fuses, the fuse could of blown when they cut the wires.

All eight wires were cut and we peeled back the plastic from the wires going into the dashboard but the wires in the square with the metal things were removed by us and we lost track of how to hook them back correctly. As for the fuses, no i have not checked.

1999 Mazda Protege Drive Train / Driveline   

I had my fan belts changed after 75K miles. An hour after this, they started screeching. Tried tightening them which worked for a couple of days and then started screeching again. Changed belts again which worked for a couple of days and they still screech. Could it be the automatic belt tensioner or a bad pulley?

Yes, it very well could be the tensioner, a bad pulley, or one of the accessories is spinning to hard. Remove the belt and spin the all the pulleys by hand to see if one turns with excessive resistance. Inspect the pulleys for any signs of damage.

1998 Mazda Protege Engine   

Hello,
My 98 Protege, 1.5ltr, auto, has a rough idle. Engine RPM bounces up and down in park and at stops when in drive, driving.
I cleaned the EGR valve, checked all electrial connections, cleaned some ground terminals.
I hear a click from the EGR valve. Is this from the boost selinoid? Normal, for I have not noticed it before, but again, I was not really listening for it.
What is next to do? Replace EGR Selinoid? MAS airflow? Intake Air Temp Sensor? I read that the PCV Valve port in the intake manifold, to the throttle body may be clogged?
Also, I currently have a cracked exhaust manifold. I have put off replacing this, for monitary reasons. Could the reduced exhaust be giving the O2 sensor the wrong reading?
Need some advice.
Thank you

Remove the EGR and check for carbon buildup.
The plugged scenario is common, yes.
The cracked manifold is going to give erratic O2 readings.If cost is a consideration, have you considered a used one?

I already cleaned the EGR. Seems to be fully functional. What about the sensor on it, can that be bad?
Do you feel that the cracked manifold is the place to start? Then work my way through the EGR, MAS, etc? For if my O2 sensor is giving the bad reading, would this make the idle jump like this?
Thank you

Idle will be erratic with cracked manifold. Sensor on EGR is a position sensor, best checked with scan tool.

1998 Mazda Protege Engine   

My name is Peter and

I have bought a 1998 Mazda Protege automatic with 177257 km

It is 01.5 L engine and it cannot pass emission test, after I went for it 4 times and got changed

head gasket,intake gasket,rear catalytic converter,oxygen sensors front and rear, spark plugs, spark plugs wires, fuel filter and air filter.



Well car starts right away,and power is smooth( although sometimes engines shakes a little when in drive)( engine light is on and it shows egr valve and front O2 sensor-- and it wastes so much fuel when driving.

I payed for 2 analysis and last one it was 1/ catalyic converter inoperative,possible malfunction from EC/PCM computer

but they are not sure.

here are results of my test



40 km/h Curb Idle

Limit Reading Limit



HC ppm 72 382 fail 150 417 fail

CO % 0.4 10.21 fail 0.7 9.07 fail

NO ppm 0550 70 Pass N/A NA NA

PPM 1925 Valid PPM 925 valid

Dilution 18.81 Valid Dilution 18.47 valid



No change from first e-test



I wasted so much money on it and so far no one fixed the problem.

I am going to be very thankful if you guys can do something.

Thank you very much!

I would be concerned about the failed O2 sensor.That would also explain the excessive fuel consumption and the excessive fuel will damage the convertor.
A simple test of the O2 can be made with a digital volt/ohm meter. The voltage at the O2 should be .5 volts with rapid spikes to .8 volt and .3 volt (aprox) with .5 being the median or average voltage. If sensor reads good then I would suspect ECU (used ones are avail)If 02 is the problem, replace it (even new ones occassionally fail)

1997 Mazda Protege Engine Won't Start When starting When cold

Difficult starting cold. Must drag starter and jump off new battery to get it to start. Have had in shop and replaced water sensor, tps, checked ecu, and oxygen meter. It is putting too much fuel to the plugs, causing it flood. Once started and the engine is warm it will restart first try. It also passed the emission test required in Georgia. The car runs good and has power. As a last resort I took to the Mazda dealership and they said the compression was too Low and needed a new engine. Please help. Brad Barber

Hi;
There is two reasons why you would get low compression. But what you have explain sounds like you need to do a valve job. The only reasons you loose compression is either thru the head or the piston rings. Most likely if it passed the emissions test is not leaking past the rings. Good Luck Les.

Les,

The car starts in warm weather and even in colder weather once the car engine is warm after it has run. The car runs good once started and has plenty of power. What would cause the plugs to be gassed when starting on a cold day? Thanks.

Brad

Hi;
Sounds like valve not seating all the way. Didn't say what the compression test results where. But I would look at the lowest cylinder. Thanks Les

I see that you released the question. Have you run the compression test?? The tools are available (often for free to borrow) from places like Autozone. Run the compression and tell me what the results are. We can go from there. What part of GA are you in.. I am in Jacksonville Fl. Talk with u soon. Al

The compression cold was around 70,but once running it was around 125. The car runs good once started and when the engine is warm there is no problem restarting. Only from a cold start in the morning is there a problem. Thanks.

Brad

Normal compression is 135 on a cold engine and upwards of 200 on a warm engine. Your compression is a real problem. I would like you to try something ... add about 1/2 oz of oil to a cylinder and see how much the compression changes. Do this to the engine cold and to each cylinder. Record the pressures. If the compression has a drastic increase then the problem is cylinder or ring related.. no or small increase is valve related. We can go from there. Al
PS.. where in GA??

Thanks. We will try the compression tomorrow. I am located in Conyers, GA, just east of Atlanta, Ga.

Brad

Ran compression check, cold, #1-70 psi, #2-190 psi, #3-80 psi & #4-90 psi. Put 2 oz #10-40 oil in each cyl and repeated, #1,3 & 4 went uo 5 psi, #2 went up 15 psi. After reading an instruction manual, it appears that engine would make a good boat anchor. What do you think?

1997 Mazda Protege Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

There is a clicking noise from rear only while braking. It seems to come only from one wheel. I already removed the brakes completely and lubricated friction points. It didn't help, any ideas?

Is this vehicle equipped with rear disk or drum brakes?

I figured it out myself, thanks for your reply though. Do you know how to get a refund?

Contact the site administrator.

What was the problem?

I swapped the drums side to side and the noise disappeared. I was suspecting a bad drum, but now I'm not worried about it. I'm a tech myself and was getting frustrated. How do I contact an administrator, can't find any links?

Just found the link, thanks for your interest in my question though.

1996 Mazda Protege Engine   

Battery was changed, now engine won't register for emissions test with 180 miles after battery change.

Hi,
I understand your problem, but will need more information. The computer system moniters about 10 different systems, each made of 3-10 components. Each system has different conditions under which it completes its monitering. To finish the moniters you have not completed, it will be helpful to know which ones are remaining.

Generally, catalyst, o2 sensor and evap moniters take the longest to complete. To speed the completion, keep your fuel level between 1/4 and 3/4. Take some steady highway drives, 50-60 MPH without heavy acceleration, and without deceleration for 10-15 miles.

I can give you more detailed information if you can confirm which moniters are incomplete.

1996 Mazda Protege Electrical / Lighting Systems  When driving Always

I put a new alt 11.5 volts when car is running, 12.5 when shut off. Put a second alt on same problem. What could be wrong?

Sounds like a wiring problem to me. What is the voltage with the engine running at the big terminal? If it is over 13V, then you have a bad wire or fuse between it and the battery.

Its 11.5 with the engine running, at the batt. and at the big alt termnal.

Next, turn the engine off. Disconnect the plug with the small wires in it. Turn the key on and use a test light in the 2 terminals in the harness. One should light brightly and the other dimly. If these read correctly, it sounds like a fauly alternator. If either wire is not reading right, we will need to track down that specific problem.

1995 Mazda Protege Engine Malfunction When accelerating No pattern

Im getting a missfire code on#2cyl. when you go down the road it hesitates,bucks& backfires.This dosnt happen every time but its getting worse. Gave it a tune-up, had the injectors cleaned. Still does it! why? Jeff

Hello, Did you replace the spark plug wires too? If not, take a real close look at the #2 wire boot that fits the spark plug terminal. It may have a tiny hole in the boot and allow the spark to jump to the engine instead of the plug gap. To verify, try switching the #2 wire with another cylinder. Did the problem move to the new location?

Please advise,

Roger

Yes I did change the sparkplug wires.It still codes
#2 misfire!

Did you try switching #2 wire with another to see if the problem moves? Does the engine really misfire or just "codes" a misfire?

Can you swap ignition coils to see if the problem moves? Have you "ohm" tested the coils and are they reading pretty much the same compared to one another?

Roger

I made a mistake its a 1998 protege. Coil is built into the distributer. It seems to accelerate fine if
you slowly push the gas. If you step down on it,she
wants to stall almost like she's running on 2 cyl's.
Fuel pressure is within spec.Icleared the code and
swapped injectors. I have'nt been getting a misfire
code yet. But it still runs the same.Like #/?*\$@

You swapped injectors? What about wires? Do you have a node light to test the injector harness and see if the computer is firing the #2 injector? Have you done a compression test? How old is the timing belt?

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

I just wanted to say thanks.The problem was the timming belt.

1995 Mazda Protege Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming When braking Always

I have a problem with the lights dimming when the brakes are applied or the turn signals are turned on. the dash lights dim also. I have had the alt. checked and the battery replaced. The alt. has been checked at an auto parts store in the car with a load test , they said the alt. is ok. thanks

While parked, raise the rpm's slightly by pressing the gas pedal.

Turn the turn signal on and see if the dash lights dim. This test is to see if you car's idle may be dropping to low under certain circumstances, which will stop the alternator from charging. Let me know if the lights still dim under these circumstances (while the idle is certainly high enough).

Have you check the bulbs and sockets to make sure there is not a problem there?

have tried higher RPMs checked bulbs etc. still have the problem with the dimming could the alt. be weak but pass a running test?

It is possible. All that is needed is a voltmeter to check the alternator. It either produces charging voltage when needed or it doesn't. There are other measure of performance, but they all can be put in a formula which equates to voltage. So why not use the simplest. Use a voltmeter, preferably a digitial one (available for around $10 at Walmart), and see if voltage drops below charging voltage [or not] when the turn signal is turned on.

To do this note engine off battery voltage- expect roughly: 12.8

Start the engine- expect voltage to rise roughly to: 13.8

Have an assistant turn on the headlights and then the signal lights, observe the voltage on the meter. The alternator is not working if voltage drops to original battery voltage (aprox-12.8) or below.

Does the heater fan, wipers, or other components cause the dash lights to dim?

yes all loads cause dimming. could there be a short in the battery cables or anything else?

Weak battery cables or the wire from the alternator to the battery could be in bad shape and not capable of carrying enough current to charge. Always check body grounds whenever you have a strange electrical problem, remove the wire and clean the surface good and try again. You likely have a ground strap from the engine to the body, they typically are attached near the top of the engine as opposed to the bottom and attach to the firewall.

Does the battery go dead after a while?

Do the lights dim everytime you turn something on, or only sometimes?

1995 Mazda Protege Engine   

engin was warming up on cold morning. stalled and will not start. checked timing and seems to be firing on #1 when cranking. ohmed crank sensor in spec around .530 and fuel pressure at rail was33 lbs. has excellent spark. any suggestions

Start by checking cylinder compression using a compression gauge. Advance Auto and Autozone have Tool Loaner Programs, call ahead to see if they have a compression gauge available.

If compression is okay, check for fuel injector pulse to the fuel injectors. A noid light is recommended for this test (unplug a fuel injector and plug in the noid light, crank engine and observe for flashing).

You could also spray a small amount of carburetor cleaner into the throttle body and see if the engine temporarily starts (or sounds as if it might). You could do this before checking cylinder compression. If it does start and stall, this would confirm adequate cylinder compression. Remember to only use a small amount of carb cleaner.

Don't overlook fuses or the possibility of bad gasoline (water).

Have you checked any of the things I've suggested so far?

Do you need more instructions?

Unplug the MAF (airflow sensor) and try to start the engine. If it starts or tries to start, the replace the MAF.

If this don't work, try the same with the TPS (throttle position or angle sensor).

You should also check for diagnostic trouble codes.

I assume you have checked fuses (and the check engine light is coming on when you initially turn on the key) and confirmed cylinder compression.

1995 Mazda Protege Engine   

the electric cooling fan dosent work it omly works wen I turn ac on

Probably the coolant temp sensor (switch on engine)It is over ridden when the a/c on. The sensor is about the size of your thumb.

before wen I turn off my car the cooling fan stayd on now it dosent

Still sounds like the coolant sensor,If you ground the wire,at the sensor with the key on, and the fan should come on. If it does, replace sensor, if not look at cooling fan relay. Also ensure coolant level is full. Sensor is mounted fairly high and does not read air temp well!

1994 Mazda Protege All Part Groups   

engine turns normal, no spark, no fuel, gas tank half full,checked fuel pump,its good,no spark at plugs or coil, no fuel at engine.

Does the check engine light come on when the key is turned on? If not, check the fuses. If OK, check the ignition switch, then the powers and grounds and relays to the computer.

If the light comes on, check for power to the coil, powers and grounds to the computer.

1994 Mazda Protege Ignition System   

The car was running fine yesterday. Today I go out and trun the key, and all the lights and bells work. However, the starter does not engage. There is no clicking sound, just nothing, and yes I am depressing the clutch. I checked the battery and it is good. read 12.5 volts, and I put a 12v battery charger on it for 1 hour just in case. Still nothing. Any ideas where to start looking?

Hi, Start by looking at the Starter Interlock Switch at the top of the clutch bracket. See if it has broken, is out of adjustment/mounting position, or no longer has continuity when the clutch is pressed to the floor.

Roger

Roger I need to know where this bracket is. I assume it is inside the footwell at the top of the clutch pedal. (other end from where my foot goes) Is this correct.

Yes, If you watch as you move the clutch pedal you'll see the arm move on a bracket above the pedal. This movement should link to a switch with two wires connected to it.

Please click OK on your reply and avoid releasing the question unless you would rather ask help from someone else. I'll try to help.

Roger

Thanks Roger I will take a look tomorow just after lunch. It is now 9:30 Pm and kinda dark. This is my sons car. Personally there is way to much "electrickery" in these. I prefer my 1970 MG Midget. Real simple.

That's just fine. No pressure from me.

I'm on your side. I have an original 1972 Chevy SS El Camino 454 four speed standard. No Computers or smog stuff, just 365 brute horses to put my head on the headrest.

It too has a clutch starter interlock switch!

Roger

Roger, I tried, I figured I might as well. When I pushed the button in, the Relay ? in the engine compartment clicked when I turned the key. When the button was not pushed in no click from in the engine compartment. From my upside down position it was coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. SO I guess the switch is good. If I put a meter across the switch I assume it will be an open circuit and when I push the button in it will close the circuit. I believe the wires in and out are green / purple. Any other ideas for tomorrow when the son returns

Correct the switch should have power coming in from the ignition switch when held in the start position.

If the switch closes the power should output directly to the starter solenoid.

Any chance the starter is hung up? See if rocking the car forward and back in gear will free it up.

Need a wiring diagram? Advise your email address please.

Roger

email a wiring diagram is a great idea thanks

[redacted]

I'll try rocking later son is at work

I'll send the diagram.

Roger

1994 Mazda Protege Ignition System   

Bought a new engine complete with wire loom Airflow meter and PCM. However, it is yet to start. No current seem to go to the spark plugs. The Ignition coil is good, the injectors open and close when distributer is turned but no spart at spark plugs. What could be the problem?

Since you are changing the entire engine and wire loom, I would start methodically checking all wiring for sensors etc. Something as simple as a crankshaft position sensor not being commected can cause that problem. There should be enough wires hooked up to use a scanner and check for codes also.

where do I find the crankshaft position sensor? and what does it look like?

After analyzing your response regarding the Crankshaft position sensor, I think that may not be the problem. When the technician who was trying to get spark at the plug. HE TOUCHED THE TIP OF HIS TESTER (the one with the single tip like a soldier iron with a wire clip at one end)ON THE MIDDLE WIRE OF THE IGNITER THAT IS CONNECTED TO THE COIL. HE GOT SPARK AT THE WIRE THAT CONNECTS TO THE DISTRIBUTER AND ALSO THE INJECTORS OPEN AND CLOSE.

I never use a test light on any computerised ignition systems as they can can cause too many problems. Using a digital volt/ohm meter is safer. I hope the tech did not damage the igniter...

How do you test an igniter to tell whether its good or not?

With a digital (not analog) VOM meter. Do you have one?

Yes, I have a Digital VOM. How do I do the test? And what are the values I should look for?

The small pickup coil on the side of the distributor should read [redacted] ohms resistance across the terminals. The ignition coil output should have [redacted] K-ohms output also.
If the readings are notwithin range,I usually replace the pickup coil and ignitor as an assy.

can i substitute a later model brain and distributor to use on the engine. that is, using a 96 brain and distributor on this engine

Not usually recommended, but if you have one you might try...

1993 Mazda Protege Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I replaced an old battery in January 2007. The weather got cold and car was not driven much for two weeks an the battery died. One night I called AAA and they gave the battery a jump. I let the car warm up and took for drive. During my drive the "charge" light came on and I suspected it was using the light at night. I had AAA give me another jump a I took the car to a repair shop to check the electrical system. They gave it a clean bill of health. Two day later the battery died again.

Note: When I started car the dash board light come on, but I can see them loose power until nothing happens. There is no clicking, so don't think starter.

Hello, Is the battery you have installed now a new one? Has it been charged with a battery charger to full charge before you started depending on the car's alternator to keep it charged up?

Do you have a multi-meter? When the engine is running what dc voltage do you read accross the battery terminals?

Roger

It is a new battery installed in January 2007. When died twice after installation, AAA charged the battery and I let it run to regain the charge. I then drove the car for a half hour.

My concern is how thoroughly the battery was charged. An alternator will not properly charge the battery if the state of charge is low. (even if the car will start)

Protocol calls for a "shock charge" to the battery of 40 - 60 amps for 30 minutes followed by up to 24 hours charge of 10 - 20 amps. The battery still has to pass a load test before put in service.

Another test called a "Parasitic Drain Test" is then needed to determine if the car's systems have excessive drain on the battery while the car is not in use. A maximum of 35 milliamps drain is allowed or the battery will require frequent charging to keep up until the drain is brought into specs.

If the car has something causing the parasitic drain to exceed 35 milliamps diagnosis is necessary or the battery will simply go dead. Quickly.

Roger

1993 Mazda Protege Drive Train / Driveline   

reverse works fine first is the only gear that seems to work but is hard to get the transaxle to work in forward at all lots of accelerating very little movement "hold" light on dash is on

This indicates the module has recognized a problem with the transmission. The codes stored in the module need to be accessed with a scanner. If you can make it an AAMCO facility, the last I knew, they would perform free diagnostics. This would include checking TCM (trans. control module) codes. Remember you do not have to let them perform the repair. Many independent trans shops also offer free diagnosis.

You can check the wiring to the transmission and fluid level. Check the wiring thoroughly.

1993 Mazda Protege Ignition System   

My Mazda usually does not want to fire up after it has rained or it is very damp outside. If i leave the car sit till later, or just keep cranking the starter, it eventaully does start. is there a way to fix this or replace some part?

Whenever I see a car exhibit poor running
or poor starting associated with dampness, I immediatly think secondary ignition voltage leaks. Worn distributor cap (and rotor) as well as weak spark plugs can cause this. As can worn spark plugs with fouled tips or excessive gaps.
Essentially all these things are part of a decent tune up...

1992 Mazda Protege Fuel System  When starting When cold

I have a hard time starting the car when it's cold. I pump the gas peddle and it starts after a few trys. Immediately after the start it is rough in idle and chuggs before I drive away. Once I start driving it's smooth. Is it the fuel injector cold start valve? It that easy to replace? How much?

a can of injector cleaner in the fuel will usually cure that problem and it would be wise to change your fuel filter

Thanks!

1992 Mazda Protege Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Passenger side turn signals/hazrad flashers do not work. Have changed front and rear bulbs and there is no sign of corrosion in the light sockets.
All fuses are good. Driver-side turn signals work fine.
The problem started out intermittent, during a very cold spell we had last month. The signal worked, but every few seconds would click rapidly, then normal, rapid, then normal. This continued for a few days, then everything seemed back to normal, signals worked fine. As of a few days ago, the right signal stopped working completely. When the signal is activated, the clicking is rapid and there is no arrow indicator in the dash display. When the hazard flasher button is pushed, the left side front and rear lights flash, as does the left arrow in the dash display.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds as if the turn signal switch in the steering column may be the cluprit. If it an air bag system(wich I think it does being a '92 model)the system also has a clock spring whitch controls the eletrical at the wheel. Also, I do recall that some foreign vehicles do have a lft & rt fuse that control this fuction. If I remember correctly its' in the enginge compartment in the main fuse block.
Good Luck,
Paul

1. Bad bulb or incorrect bulb can cause bizarre problems

2. Check fuse, flasher, and confirm a good ground

3. Turn signal/multifunction switch

1991 Mazda Protege Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

car will not start after driving. found no spark when this ocurs, but after letting it sit for awhile it will start and drive fine.

Hi,
I have seen this problem on these cars several times. Most likely it is a failing distributor or bad cap and rotor. When the problem occurs, watch to see if the tachmeter needle moves or jiggles off the 0 RPM mark. If it does not move, then you have a bad distributor, igniter or wiring.

If it moves, remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor and check for strong spark at the end of that wire. It should jump at least half an inch. If not, you have a bad coil, igniter, coil wire or wiring.

If you have strong spark on the coil wire, but no spark at the plugs, then you have a bad cap, rotor, or plug wires.

Igniters, coils and distributors seem the most prone to fail under heat stress.

1990 Mazda Protege Engine Hesitating When idling When warm 

While driving bumper to bumper traffic in AZ my car overheated, to the extreme. Radiator blew and I had to drive it longer then I should have to get off the freeway.
While doing this I drove it until it died. Replaced the radiator and check for water in the oil there was none.
Car runs good until it warms up then it runs very rough. Before overheating the car ran very good.
Tested the fuel injectors to see if the heat had damaged the O-rings they where fine.
Is the motor internaly damaged or is there other things I could test to see if the heat damaged any senors?
Thank you for any ideas you can give.

It sounds like you did very bad things to the engine. It sounds like you have a cracked head. But before you go and have lots of work done. Conduct a compression check with the engine cold, record your results, start engine and warm it up... shut engine and run compression readings again. Also take a look at your spark plugs as you pull them out.... if one is red in appearance or very clean compared to the others that is your bad cylinder. I think the fuel system should be fine. Let me know. We can go from there. AL