Mazda RX7

1994 Mazda RX7 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Car won't start, informed by a friend (mechanic) that there is a short in the anti-theft system causing the car not to start but he doesn't know how to fix it. Any suggestions.

Hello,

What is missing, starter function or fuel/spark?

Starter function, the car will not turn over but you do hear a clicking in the relays/fuses.

I'm sorry, it is a Mazda MX6 not an RX7.

Hello,

Which engine in the car? I'll look to see if I can find anything on the security system.

Is this a factory security system?

Why does your mechanic think it is the security system?

1993 Mazda RX7 Engine   

My 93 rx7 is blowing smoke at high rpms and loosing oil (about 2 quarts per 70 miles). I checked the quality of the oil and it is clean. My question is, When the car is in high rmp range and turbos are working hard can the oil blow through turbo and through exhaust. (If turbo seals are bad). Car also spudders and spits when slowing down while in gear. ( the smoke is white). Thanks

Hi, I recommend a cylinder compression test. It will seperate piston ring wear from turbo concerns.

The piston rings may be worn or stuck and the cause of the oil consumption.

Roger

tttt

"tttt"?? What is that?

Roger

I also have one other question. The idle goes up and down from 900 rpm to 1800rpms when the car is coasting to a stop and the goes back to normal when car is not moving.

Thanks

Consider testing the sweep of the throttle position sensor for a bad spot, or inspecting the throttle body bore (if fuel injected) for gummy fuel deposits the throttle valve could be sticking to when closed.

Roger

1990 Mazda RX7 Windows / Glass Failing Happens always 

interior light want upgrade can not find anything

I have written to the All-Parts Administrator to relay your displeasure. His awareness and whatever action he may choose is his call.

Sincerely,

Roger

Hello, Would you give me an idea what such an upgrade would consist of. I'm asking is the car fitted for mounting of the interior upgrade lights, but not prewired for it? Or are you looking for parts?

Thanks,

Roger

What is the status here? Thanks,

Roger

ur idiot got parts thanks anyway

Now why would you say that? I'm the only one who tried to assist you and you abuse me? You don't know one thing about who I am or what I might have done for you.

Roger

it took 2 mths to get final repley

I'm sorry no one picked up on your question before I did. (I have no control over who does what or when) Questions are for technicians to answer at will, they are not assigned. Even so, it took you 15 days to reply to my first effort to help you. Believe me, I don't do this for the money. I made an effort. Contact ALL-PARTS Mr. All-Parts.com with your complaint. He needs to know how you feel.
Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Will you please click on the "PAY" button on your screen to close this question out? Have you been in contact with Mr. All-Parts.com at ALL-PARTS concerning your feelings on this matter?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Mazda RX7 Engine   

when i start the car i have to give it gas to crank and run normal, if i dont give it gas it idles right above 0rpm. its a turbo rx7. it sputters when i get on it. turbo spools and i can tell it makes a difference, it just doesnt want to go. it will go fast, just takes too long. i also have a fuel cut off switch, it cranks better when its off.

sputters while im driving it while the rpms are climbing. 1st gear is almost no sputtering.

Hello,

Start by checking the trouble codes--

http://www.rx7city.com/ecucodes.htm

Copy and Paste the above link into your address bar. Let me know which, if any codes you find.

1990 Mazda RX7 All Part Groups   

I have a 90 rx-7 convertible. suns fine going down the road, then the check engine light come on and wount rev much over 1500. shut car off an restart runs fine ubtill check engine comes on again. not sure why this happens.

Hello, Please have the diagnostic codes read. The computer may be going into a "Limp Mode" which limits performance until an issue is corrected.

To obtain the codes using a jumper wire ground the Green one pin connector. It is located at the front of the left front fender near the battery.

With ignition ON and engine stopped observe the check engine light flashes. Count the number of flashes. Expect a pause between codes. The codes range from 1 - 34 sequencially. Then there are codes 37,40,41,42,51,71,and 73.

Please advise the codes you find.

Roger

i did the jumper wire an came up 33 and 27, but i cant find anyone where i live that knows what it means.

Code 27 = Metering Oil Pump

Code 33 = Port Air Solenoid Valve

The trouble charts can be scanned to email and sent to you. What email address would you like them sent to?

Roger

Is your RX7 a Non-Turbo, or a Turbo 1.3L?

Roger

it is a non turbo convertible with auto trany.

[redacted] is my email for the charts. thank you

Thank you. Please check your email inbox, spam/junk folders for Subject 1990 RX7 Data.

Roger

1988 Mazda RX7 Engine Making Noise When idling Always

I think I may have some kind of leak in the exhaust. Sometimes when I start the car to warm it, when I come back to the car the car is full of smoke and the smoke is coming from the shifter. Also the muffler bangs very loud.

I started experiencing this when I was advised to have the fuel injection system flushed

I would agree with you, given the symptoms you have described.

The exhaust system is in need of repair. You can do it yourself, or have it done at a repair shop.

The shifter area is basically a hole in the floor of the car that the shifter lever comes through from the transmission.

The exhaust leak just happens to be in that area.

You might try a patch for the exhaust pipe leak, there are several to choose from at an auto parts store.

Do not try anything at hand that is not specifically rated for exhaust system use. It will either melt off, or could catch fire.

The muffler is either loose, which can happen. One or more of the hangers may have failed. If this is the case, an examination (get under the car and look at it) should reveal where the problem is.

Replace the affected parts and the banging should stop.

The only other thing is the muffler has developed an internal problem and needs to be replaced.

Check to see if it is simply loose before you do anything else to it.

what about the fuel injection cleaning? Was that bad to do because now there's a problem with accelleration.

Fuel injectors are a cause of the problem because they inject fuel into the engine where the fuel is burned, which produces smoke of some kind and the leak allows it into the car. In having the injectors cleaned, I'm making the assumption that the fuel rail was opened and a cleaner injected into the fuel rail to clean the injectors. If I am correct, then there is a pressure problem now, because the reconnect after the cleaning was not done properly. Fuel injection systems must have proper pressure and rate of flow, or they do not operate as they were designed to operate. The injectors were not part part of your problem. "Smoke", being a broad term can be caused by anything, even oil getting into the cylinders. If the injectors were fouled, then the car would not run properly. Since that was not mentioned, and you did say the "smoke" was coming through the shifter opening, that indicates an exhaust leak. If you want the problem fixed, you need to quit chasing "rabbits", problems, and fixes that are not truely related to the problem, and get the opening in the exhaust system fixed. You can be given a ticket for this exhaust problem if a police officer happens to notice it.

1988 Mazda RX7 Engine Overheating When driving Always

my engine its been over heating during the past month , i change the oil , i have no cooling leaks,the termostat was replace still no change , also the oil pressure is very low whem the car is not moving ,this been going on after i replace my tranny

check the fan relay,might have came unpluged,or check your radiator cap good luck BIG JIM

the fan is on and the caps are new , why is my oil pressure so low?

1988 Mazda RX7 Fuel System Leaking When starting 

I am having a problem with when cranking gas getting into spark plugs. I am replacing cats because there is problems with the exhaust. The car has been sitting for a while. Now it won't crank. When spark plugs replaced it fired then sputtered and shut off. Plugs were soaked with gas.

One common problem on these engines is a loss of compression after setting for a while. Some people remove the spark plugs, pour in some transmission fluid, shut off the fuel, spin the engine, reinstall the plugs, turn the fuel on and BINGO! Give it a try.

1988 Mazda RX7 Engine   

My NA S4 RX7 has always had a studder (power dips then comes back) in 1st gear right after the clutch fully disengages (about 1500 rpm), but can be overshadowed by giving it a hard launch. It doesn't do it in reverse either; only when moving forward. The clutch has been replaced twice, tranny rebuilt (syncros and all bearings), new driveshaft, new rear end, new egr value, new air filter, new sparkplugs & idles smoothly. The throttle is complex and has double butterflies, along with temp dependent adjustment, but this happens at any engine temp. If not throttle or drivetrain, could injectors / fuel filter / pump be suspect?

The fuel system could be suspect.
I would do a fuel pressure test as part of a driveability test. Testing the pressure as the car is driven.I would also carefully check every inch of the fuel line. It is not unusual for a car to have a restriction in fuel line as a result of a small dent in the line. I onece bought a car with similar problem. It had a small hole in fuel line back by the tank.No leak was evident but it was sucking air in certain conditions! After 3-4 mechanics replaced MANY parts without fixing the problem, she sold me the car. I repaired it for $5.
So very carefully check the fuel system....

I actually had to replace a section of my fuel lines where a previous owner had smashed them with a hydraulic lift. They've got high pressure hose where the damage was done, so it's possible there is more damage around that area than I thought. Thank you for the suggestion, I almost forgot about that repair.

1987 Mazda RX7 Engine  When starting When cold

i race my rx7 on dirt tracks. no engine or engine mgt. system modification has been done. (nonturbo)
the motor is a 1987 that has been put into a 1988 body. we are using the original computer for that motor. we are also using the wiring harness from the 1988 body on the 1987 motor.
we always have to pull start it. if we use the key it will flood.
once we have it running, it will not idle good below 2000rpm. over 2000rpm it seems to run good.
we have tried to tune it by changing the rotor angle but have had no luck.

i need wiring harness advice and timing advice. racing season starts 04-02-04. please help me.

thanks,
rick r.

hello sir
a standard childens manual will have that wiring diagram in it
that would be the best source for this info
I hope it helps

how did that system turn out? id you get the info you needed?

1987 Mazda RX7 Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise When driving Always

There is a beeping noise coming from the driver's side under the dash. it starts a few minutes after i start to drive. if i turn the car off then back on the noise will stop and then continue. I have replaced the driver's side cpu twice and the noise still continues. what is cause of this beeping.

Do any warning lights come on with the beeping?
Have you checked the brake fluid?

Do you have the turbocharged engine?

1987 Mazda RX7 Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

please help ? no spark from all 4 coils, with test light connected to test wire from igniter stays steady light when cranking

Hi,
Since you have no spark from all 4 coils, you likely have a single ignition failure. Since you have light on the test connector, your power supply is good. I suspect a bad crank position sensor. It bolts in like a distributor and tells the computer when to fire a coil. Make sure your check engine light comes on when you first turn the key on.
Best wishes

please help me,my boy friend is lost. the car does not have a ck engine lamp.i looked in the owners manual.we took the cover off the distributor,and saw two crank position sensors .we ckd them w/our meter and got 167 ohms.is this ok?.is there any other way to ck them? any help?

Yes,
You can check for AC voltage while you crank the engine. Typical readings are over 1.5 ACVolts.

your great ! can we replace the sensors without the dist.? expensive?

I believe it all comes as a unit. It will cost a bit unless you find a used one. 86-91 is all the same. Dealer price is $450. The crank sensor is to measure 110-210 ohms between the 2 left side cavities and the 2 right side cavities. I would first suspect a failed igniter, but since neither ignitor is firing, we are looking at the crank sensors.

since my sensors are 167 ohms are they still considered bad ?

No, that is right in range. Do you get AC voltage output? The signal goes from there to the computer, then to the igniters. Make sure all those wires are good, and that the fuses providing power to the computer is good and that the relays are working.

hi!i need more help. we ck all fuses under left side of dash and under hood .wireing looks ok,as this car only has 32,ooo miles and pretty much untouched.we replaced the dist.and still no spark from any of the coils.we did noticed that the test light blinks 1 or 2 times when first cranked. is there any hope that my baby will run?

I am sure it can run again. I wish I could get my hands and about $2500 worth of tools on it. Make sure the crank sensor spins when the engine cranks. Unplug the coolant temperature sensor and measure voltage with the key on. Should be 5 Volts on the harness side. If not, then it is a computer problem.

hi! its doomed,we can,t make sense of this.it seems like we have all the right infomation.but it never wants to run again.we ck,d the coolant sensor voltage ,5 volts is there. we pluged the old dist. connector in with it not mounted in engine and grounded and turned it with key on.we get 1 spark from 1 trailing coil every time we turn key off and back we thought maybe the coils were bad but.with 12v hooked up to leading coil wire connector and test light clip on 12v and probe end touched once to other wire the coils snap at there towers. control unit bad ? please help

That confirms that the coils are good. You can run a similar test on the igniter. If the coil fires, then either the computer has a problem or the wires to it (power and ground) have a problem.

1987 Mazda RX7 Engine Malfunction Happens always When warm 

My car runs and drives great when the car is completely cooled down. After driving or letting it sit for about 5 minutes (when engine is warmed up) it idles fine but will not rev up past 1500 rpm when accelarator press. If you turn on the AC then it will rev up to 3000 rpm. If you hold the throttle down it will only rev up to these rpm and then drop back down to about 8 grand and then back up. The radiator is new, clutch fun working good, water level full and circulating good and temp. gauge showing on cool side (normal running temp.) Please help!!!

It sounds like you have a situation where you are not getting enough fuel to your engine. The first thing to do is to have a helper add a little fuel to the intake when the car is in its surging mode. I believe the engine will suddenly rev up with power. This will confirm that it is starving for fuel.

Likely causes:
Fuel pressure (pump, filter, regulator)
Injection sensor (coolant temp, maf or map, oxygen sensor)

Hope this helps,
Sterlingfixer

Is there a sensor that tells the ECU not to let the engine rev up after the engine gets hot? You can drive the car first thing in the morning and the car runs great, it has plenty of power , revs up and go through all gears. When the engine warms up (about 5 Min.) it will idle fine but will go up and down in rpm when gas is pressed. If i shut it off and drain the radiator and engine and fill it up with fresh water, the engine will run great and rev up until it heats up.

Is the car starving for fuel?
Does your fuel pressure change between the time the engine is cold and when it is warm.

You may have a coolant temperature sensor problem, or fuel injector problem.

1987 Mazda RX7 Engine   

"Nov 1/09 5:22PM: My RX7 vibrates terribly while driving. It feels like the whole car is going to shake apart. It is not as bad if I put the car in neutral and coast. This car does not have a turbo and is an automatic."

Check your drive shaft for bad universal joints, or a bent or out-of-balance shaft. An engine misfire can make the whole car shake, but is usually worst in Overdrive/lockup, 45-60 MPH under light to moderate throttle. A bad rear tire can make it feel that way and can be worse under acceleration.

I looked under the car and the front U joints look really bad. The bearings don't even look round. I think you called it. I hope it didn't do any other damage. Any thoughts on how they got that way or what I should look for when I replace them?

Thanks,
Ron

Probably no other damage unless it wore the yoke hole oblong. If the joint has a grease fitting, that should be greased with every oil change. Else wise, no maintenance possible except replacement when it goes bad.

1987 Mazda RX7 Fuel System   

Car starts great and runs great but when I shut it down and try to restart it between 30 to 45 minutes it floods and won't start. When I wait for an hour it doesn't flood and starts great. When it is flooded can only start by pushing instead of using the starter.

Sounds like you might require a scan of the codes.
If none avail, I would suspect the Coolant Temp Sensor is at fault.It richens up the mixture for cold starts but it is not required for hot starts.

1986 Mazda RX7 Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

2 batteries have died in 2 days. Alternator is putting out properly. I must have a short, yet a simple continuity check doesn't show one. Engine starts, then I drive couple miles and try to start it again, and the battery is dead. Could the antitheft system be causing this?

Are you checking the battery and charging system with a voltmeter?

When you drive a couple miles and try to start again- is that after the car sits overnight?

Douglas,

Here is the sequence of events:
1) Saturday: New battery installed by Sears.
2) Car driven maybe 3 or 4 miles and parked. Antitheft system activated.
3) Sunday, today: Can started and driven 2 miles and parked for 20 minutes.
4) After that 20 minutes, car would not start. No lights. No life. Nothing.
5) Got jumpstart, drove back to Sears, new battery installed.

Mechanic is mystified. Alternator puts out. Earlier, failed battery, though, is dead. Totally. All other aspects of electrical system check out, at least at that elementary Sears level.
6) Car is now parked with antitheft system not activated. I eagerly await tomorrow.

John

You need to monitor it with a volt-meter to see when the problem is actually occurring. A volt-meter is all that is needed to effectively monitor a battery or alternator.

I am also interested in tomorrow, let me know and we'll go from there.

OK, antitheft system disarmed all night. Startup this morning:
1) Voltage before start on cold battery was 12.38
2) Car started perfectly.
3) Voltage on battery after startup ranged from 14.38 down to 14.10 after 10 minutes. No big deal.

Nothing seemed to be wrong.

I turned off engine and will attempt to restart in 20 minutes, trying to duplicate yesterday, when new battery failed.

One thing I'm curious about- was the battery that was replaced by sears on saturday, replaced for the same problem?

If the battery itself is not defective and runs completely dead in 20 minues- I think something would get very warm in the process.
Let me know what happens.

The "Saturday battery" that went dead afetr 20 minutes might -- rpt might -- have been defective. That was one guess of the mechanic. It checked out at only .04 when it was still in the car. After he took it out, it checked at about 10 volts under no load at all. I'm a little fuzzy on this part.

I'm going out now to see if the new battery starts the car.

OK, car started perfectly after about 30 minutes. Prestart battery voltage was 12.48. I have armed the antitheft system and will check again in about an hour. I suspect the antitheft system because, a few weeks ago, unlocking -- rpt unlocking -- the car door set off the alarm, though it hasn't done that since.

If you are suspicious of the antitheft system, I'd recommend monitoring the voltage while its activated.

One miscommunication, when I asked about the battery Sears replaced- it was in reference to the "original" battery. Did you have the same 'instant' failure with the original battery as you did with the replacement? Or were you simply replacing an old battery?

Another sequence of events:
1) In September 2004, I had my dead battery replaced with an Interstate batterry at a local gas station.
2) Last week, I had Sears replace a starter motor. The battery checked out perfectly. The new starter works perfectly. The old one was slow and sluggish, even with a fully cahrged battery.
3) A couple days later, that 2004 battery died. I had it replaced with a Die Hard.
4) A day later, that new Die Hard died and was replaced.
5) I started having comunication with you.

I can't believe mechanic error here. The guy knew what he was doing. I buy the defective battery scenario.

Okay, thanks for the clarification.

It has been a while. Hopefully everything is okay?

1986 Mazda RX7 Engine Stalling When accelerating Always

I have a 1986 Mazda RX7, I did a compression test and on the front plug area I only get a reading of 35 to 40psi on the rear plug area I have a reading of 75 to 80 psi, is this the sign of needing a rotor? Also the engine has 104,000 miles on it.

In engines,anytime you have a differential in compression readings between cyliders that you have described tells me you have a ring problem and/or a head gasket or head itself.Check around the head for any signs of blowout.Also check the engine oil.If it looks like chocolate milk,thats a good indication its a head or head gasket or both.If it looks good but the level is low to nil,this is a good indication as to the ring issue.A rotor at this point doesnt look like a fix for your problem.If it is either the head or rings at issue,sorry my friend but you could be looking at a fairly costy repair.There are alot of mechanics out there who don't like to work on rotary engines and the few who will know it.
Good Luck,
Paul

I am a little confused here, there are no rings in a rotor engine, just seals?? Also the oil is like brand new in color and smell, the housing show no sign of liquid leakage, and the anti-freeze is topped up and shows no drainage, also when I do get the car started, if I rev it above 2000rpm it sounds ok , just that when I try and place it in gear it will sputter and die.

Hi;
You are right. The rotor has a bad spot in it. Do some reasearch. This was called the wankel engine. They only called it a rotary when Mazda took over. They are real eazy to rebuil. Thanks Les.

You are right. The rotor has a bad spot in it. Do some reasearch. This was called the wankel engine. They only called it a rotary when Mazda took over. They are real eazy to rebuil. Thanks Les."

1986 Mazda RX7 Engine   

I replaced the transmission in my RX7 after it had been sitting for a while now the car will spin over but it won't start. Someone told me I had lost compression what should I do. Also the security light was green and the car was spinning over but would not start but now the light is red and the care will not even turn over. What might be the problem and it is a stick shift should I try pull starting it to build compression. It is a 1986 Mazda RX7 with the rotary motor. Please help I have run out of ideas.
Tommy

How long before I get a response?

if security light is red it will need to reset turn key on and walk away for 1 hour this should reset it as far as cranking did you check fuel pressure and spark at plugs

Yes I have checked the fuel pressure and spark at the plugs. It has good fuel pressure and spark at the plugs. It was turning over but just would not crank. How do you build up compression. I have been told that if the car has set for awhile it will loose compression. Any other suggestions. I will try turning the key on for 1 hour and leave it and see if it will reset the security system. I will wait for your reply.

f you think it is compression problem pour oz of transmission fluid in each spark plug hole this will build compression almost instantly

I was told to put oil in it to build up compression and after I was told to put the oil in I was told to just keep spinning it over. Keep going through this process until it almost cranked and then put a new set of spark plugs in it and it should crank. This is the process I was told to do to build the compression up in the motor. Also I tried the key turned on for 1 hour to reset the the security system. This did not reset. The secruity system is a add on system. If I trace the wirers and I take the system back off the care without messing up the computer on the car? I will try the transmission fluid in the spark plug holes and see if this will crank the car. wait for you reply.

put the fluid in but do not take out plugs as this will release compression if it is add on alarm take it out but be sure to splice back together wires to starter uder dash by steering wheel

1986 Mazda RX7 Ignition System   

engine wont start-good spark, tried either, adjusted timing in different settings.

I'm not sure why my previous reply did not post, trying again.

Remove the spark plugs and inspect. What do the plugs look like?

1984 Mazda RX7 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

As I was driving my car on the freeway, it lost power. I seemed to have this problem before when the fuel filter was clogged with rust, but the fuel filter doesn't look all that dirty, and it waon't even start. What do you think might be wrong with it? I have a adequately charged battery that turns the engine over, but it won't start even with starting fluid..

Hello, if it won't start or try to start using starting fluid there must not be spark. Have you checked for spark and fuel pressure?

Look for a blown fuse. With the key on check for battery power at the ignition coil. Does your car have points in the distributor? They may have failed.

Thoughts?,

Roger

I just replaced the fuel pump and spark plugs a few weeks ago, so yeah, I'll check the coil and the fuses. Do you happen to know where the fuses are? It's not a big deal, I'll just look it up. Thanks for your help!

Let me know what you need...

Roger