Mercury Cougar

2007 Mercury Cougar All Part Groups   

How do i change the front wheel bearings on a 2002 mercury cougar V6?

?

is anybody there?

if i dont get an answer soon i will need a refund i am working on the car now. sorry but this is urgent

Wheel bearing replacement involves-

1. Loosen the large axle nut with vehicle on the ground (or you can wait if you have a good impact)

2. Safely support the vehicle (NOT ON A JACK!) and remove the wheel

3. Remove the brake caliper and rotor

4. Finish removing the large axle nut

5. Remove the three(?) bolts on the back of hub/wheel bearing assembly

6. Now tap out the hub assembly (this contains the wheel bearing. Make sure the axle shaft slides freely first (you will likely have to hit it with a soft mallet).

Once this is removed the old bearing has to be pressed out with a hydraulic press and the new bearing pressed in. Some people will drive the old bearing out (with a hammer something that matches the outer bearing race), but and likewise back in (when they install the new one the old bearing is a perfect match for driving in the new bearing). This is how they do it, but it is not recommended as bearing/hub damage is to risky. YOu should be able to find a shop to press the bearing in at a reasonable price.

Use the following link to access a generic repair guide with more detailed instructions-

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm

They don't have a free repair guide for your 2002 Cougar, but the 1995+ Ford Contour is the same (uses the exact same bearing).

Sorry for the delay.

2007 Mercury Cougar All Part Groups   

1994 Mercury Cougar, V8, 180,000 miles. The ignition acts like it is going to stall and there is a lot of vibration, what do you suggest?

Hello, Do you suspect the engine is misfiring? How long since tuned up?

Roger

Less than 6 months.

Disconnect the spark plug wires one at a time from the spark plug. Start the engine and see if this cylinder is firing (has spark). Move through the cylinders and record which cylinders did not have spark or the removal of the wire made no difference in the running of the engine.

It could be a bad coil.

Roger

2007 Mercury Cougar Engine   

how much for a 6 cylinder 2001 mercury cougar including installation

was that specific enough

does this take a long time?

Depending on your local shop rates (we are $75 per hr.) the time to re and re an engine is 12-14 hrs.
A used engine with a 90 day warranty costs roughly $750 to $900 from an autowrecker.
A rebuilt V6 engine usually selld for aprox $2200 - $2600.
Again this depends on the availability of an engine in your part of the country.
Prices are a funny thing that often makes no sence. My brother required a used V^ and after searching on the west coast here, found one 1/2 ways across the country. The cost of the engine AND shipping was less than a west coast engine.
Expect to pay less installation labor with a used engine as it is more complete.
Do not be afraid to phone a few local autowreckers , find a engine and have a local shop install it.
Expect to 'loose' your car for about two days if you go this route. If a shop removes your engine, and has it rebuilt, you will probably not see your car for about a week or so.
Hope this info helps.

2000 Mercury Cougar Engine  When driving Always

the car is setting a PO420 & PO430 codes, " bank 1 & bank 2 catalytic system efficiency is below acceptable threshold." the car runs wonderfully and no other complaints. O2s all appear to be funtioning ok and all looks normal. any ideas? Keith

How are you viewing the sensor voltage?

With a Snap on scanner

If everything is okay. Harness, connectors, O2's, etc.
The usual fix is a new cat. Has any work been done recently to the car. It's not uncommon to find inadequate (typically undersized) aftermarket cats installed and the dtc's will reappear. The tradeoff is the fortune it cost for OEM.
Make sure coils, etc are good.

One other thing, anything that rolls of the FoMoCo's lot is subject to potential pcm reflashing/upgrade. I'd warn the customer of this. Make sure they understand you didn't build it and you didn't buy it.

2000 Mercury Cougar Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always No pattern

Heater blower has worked only on high setting for about a year. Today the high setting failed. I replaced the dash control switch, but still no blower.

Do a direct test to the blower motor to see if is fuctioning.If it is do an ohm test to the fan motor relay and resistor.
Good Luck,
Paul

2000 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Turn indicators work when only when they want to. I removed cover to steering column and discover a large black fuse right behind the turn indicator switch. When I hold the fuse tightly against the bracket it is plugged into the blinkers work . When I let go, the blinkers do not work. Do I need to replace the fuse or the bracket/piece that the fuse plugs into... and what would that bracket be called if I need to replace it?

Thanks for your help.

Sounds like you have a bad turn signal flasher. That is the black box on the backside of the combination switch. 90% likely that replacing the flasher will fix your problem, but small chance it is a bad combination switch. The switch is more expensive than the flasher.

Thanks so much. I will try replacing the flasher this evening and see if that solves the issue.

Thanks again.

Fine

1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Malfunction When driving No pattern

I own a 1999 mercury cougar. The check engine light has recently come on. I replaced the mass air flow sensor, had the injectors flushed, air filter replaced, and the o2 sensors replaced as well and the check engine light still comes on? What is the problem with the check engine light?

Hi:
Thev best thing to do is go purchase a eec tester. This is a little handheld diagnostic tool that runs about $40.00. From there you will be able to see what codes are stored in the ECM. Most diagnostic tool come with a manual to guide you through the process. Some auto parts chain like Auto Zone, etc. will do this for free for you. Their could be a lot of different problem sbut without retrieving the codes you will spend a lot of money guessing. Good Luck Les

1999 Mercury Cougar Engine   Always

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND I CAN'T FIND THE CODE READER IT.S A 99 MERCURY COUGAR 2 DOOR 6 CYL VIN 1ZWHT61L0X5630287 CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE IT IS AND WHAT IT LOOKS LIGHT CAN I GET I DIAGRAM

Hello, The Diagnostic Link Connecter (DLC) is located in the engine compartment near the driver's side strut tower. It is under the protective cover marked EEC TEST.

Send me your email address and I can send you a pic. Or, I can fax it to you if you have a fax number.

What diagram will you need?

Please advise,
Roger

How are you doing here?

Thanks,

Roger

1999 Mercury Cougar All Part Groups   

rough idle

Is the check engine light coming on while the car is running?

1999 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

need diagram of inside fan motor for heat and ac

I'm going to give you a link that'll take you to an online repair guide that contains wiring diagrams for your car.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-

http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html

Once there click the ARRC banner and then enter Year, Make, Model, Engine, and then click on Wiring Diagrams.

1999 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

first,car kept blowing fuse for ignition switch.,so I put in a little bigger fuse and it quit blowing but then the headlights kept losing power,I mean the power that was running to the under dash fuse block kept loosing power.It wasn't blowing fuses but whatever hot wire I run to the fuse block it just went cold

You ran a hot wire to the fuse box, eliminating the original hot feed to the fuse box?

It is against the rules to replace a fuse with a higher amperage fuse, to get around a shorting condition. There is the risk of fire (although uncommon). What is more likely to happen is damage to other components.

You will have to check the underhood fuses/fusible link in the fuse compartment. You will also have to find out why the ignition fuse is blowing-- there is no way around this.

I realize everything you said. I figured if something burnt it would be easier to find.But you didn't answer any questions.It's a 1999 Mercury cougar.I'm no mechanic but I could have given the answer you did.

Did you check the fuses?

Please let us know which problem you are having. We know the ignition fuse blows unless you install a higher amp fuse (which we agree should never be done).

Then you lost power to the fuse box? And installed a seperate hot wire to power up the box, which subsequently went dead?

I may not be around this evening, so I'll release the question so someone else can assist you.

Thank-you I,ll wait for your reply Thanks again. Dave

I don't know why Dave hasn't came back to you...

Tell me which fuse was blowing (fuse number and amp rating)?

Roger

Hello? Is this still an active question?

Please advise,

Roger

1999 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Electrical system is failing;the headlights/ far lights won't turn on, all the electrical readings just turns on & off when the car was running. I was told to change the battery which got the car running for a few hours and now the car is dead and it just makes a clucking noise when I try to start it.

It sounds like your charging system has failed. The original battery was run down, then a fresh replacement workded fine intil it was run down. Call your local Autozone or Advance-Auto and see if they will charge the battery for you (assuming you don't have a battery charger). With a fully charged battery drive down and they will test your charging system in the parking lot, no charge.

1995 Mercury Cougar Engine   

Do I have to pull the intake to get to the egr valve? I am not a novice, but this valve is in a tight spot. Any info on removing egr on 1995 Cougar 4.6 would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, Neither Mitchell 1 nor Chilton's data bases call for removal of the intake to get to the EGR Valve for replacement. body styles have the car on a lift to start removal and lowering the car to finish removal.

Will an old fashioned distributor wrench or a flex-socket get in there?

Roger

I have a Chilton manual for this car. I can't see the bolt, and can't get my hand between the firewall and the back of the intake. I can see the top of the EGR, but not the base. I will lift it and see what it looks like from the bottom, buy I don't think there is much room there either. There's got to be an easier way.

I intend to talk with two great friends of mine on Monday that may offer ideas to try. Both are Ford technicians......

Roger

We put heads together here and we all vote for removing the upper intake for access to the EGR Valve. Even then it is a chore to get to.

Roger

Has anyone there ever done this before?

One of the guys is a retired Ford drivability technician. He says it is no fun and hard to continue to speak acceptable language while doing an EGR Valve on a car like yours. He would have to do them for a reduced warranty labor rate and never broke even on this task.

The second man I talked with is still a Ford technician at a dealership. He agrees with the above paragraph.

No one is laughing here,

Roger

I am a field tech for a large equipment co. Usually, I can find the short cuts or easy ways to get something done. But this one is really getting on my nerves, probably because it is my car. The harness is hard to get to, and I haven't even started to remove the exhaust tube from the EGR to get the intake off. I have been doing mechanic work for 40+ years, but I still have no patience for my own vehicles. I thought there might be an easier way. thanks for your help

I hear you loud and clear. This is a tough task for the guy that does it everyday. If there were a short-cut I would want to know about it too. Thats why I ask two of the best Ford Techs I know. One is retired and the other still in the Dealership Service Dept. Both of them had empathy for you as they know it will be rough for anyone. They have been there.

Is there anything else I can do for you?

Roger

1994 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

I started blowing a high current fuse under the hood that works my brake lights and I guess my after market CD player is connected to as well. After I change the fuse and take the car for a drive, after about 10 minutes the stereo goes dead. Then when I stop and put the car in park, I can't put it back in gear. (Normally, to put the car in gear, you have to have your foot on the brakes).

The stereo was installed 2 years ago. The only thing I've had done to the car lately was I took it to Goodyear to have oil changed, tires rotated and I had them do a check on the electrical system, because I had a check engine light on that wouldn't go off. Never found a problem with that. The light has since disappeared or burned out. I called Goodyear back to ask if they could have shorted something out. Of course they said they didn't.

The only other thing that I notice is that there's a dime down in the cigarette lighter slot. I don't know if that is on the same fuse or not.

Hello, Well, it sure makes good sense to get that dime out of the lighter socket. That is a dead short for sure and is likely the cause of the shift lock solenoid, and the after market CD player failures.

The brake lights should be on their own fuse and is often combined as a STOP/HAZARD fuse.

Have you already removed the dime from the lighter socket? If not, lets start there. If you have, please advise...

Thanks,

Roger

1992 Mercury Cougar Fuel System  When driving When warm 

1992 Cougar 25th Anniversary Edition; 302c.i. This car was parked for 3 months this cold, cold Michigan winter. It was started once about a month ago and ran til warm. My son has borrowed the car and now it idles around 1500rpm in gear and with the rear brakes out of adjustment this multiplies the problem on ice and snow of which we have been cursed with large quantities. The main problem is the gas mileage has gone away; very down on power and the exhaust manifolds glow cherry red. Is it mad at me for leaving it out in the cold? Are there any diagnostic codes retrievable without a scanner? It has been running without an aircleaner because the blowby has been oil fouling it. Blow by goes out on the ground now via a three foot hose. THANX Jerry

Jerry,
I do not believe your problem is from the cold weather. Most likely either the throttle cable is stuck, holding the throttle open part way, or the idle air control valve has decided to go south. To check this, find the thottle on the intake and close it by hand. If it closes or the idle slows, then your cable is stiff. Change it before you crash! If that is OK, check the idle valve. This is a round cylinder shaped unit, about 2" diameter and about 6" long bolted in the middle lying on its side with 2 bolts, very near the throttle body. Unplug the 2 wire connector and see if the idle slows. If so, then a computer or wiring problem. If still running fast, remove the valve and checkt he idle speed while holding the the 2 holes on the throtle body closed. If it now idles slow or stalls, replace the valve.
Sure this will help,
Dlae

1992 Mercury Cougar Ignition System   

High RPM (2500) at idle in Park, 1200 RPM in Drive with brake. Car travels 35 - 40 MPH with no gas applied. Check Engine light comes on for a while then goes off, maybe to come on again another time. Always idled a bit high, got noticably worse suddenly when weather got cold. Mechanics thought vacuum leak, can't locate, even had intake manifold off to examine gasket. Scan not showing much. Tested injector voltage, said one injector getting high voltage. Swapped with used brain box, at first seemed much better; after drive around block, idling the same (so no change). I have noticed that the problem is worse after it warms up. Thanks.

Remove the idle speed motor and temporarily plug its passageway into the throttle body. Now start the engine. If the idle speed is still high you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If idle is okay, or to low (possibly to the point you have to press the gas pedal slightly to keep it running) there is a problem with the idle speed motor itself (try cleaning its pintle and the passageway into the intake) OR you have a faulty sensor reading going tothe computer.

At this point check trouble codes to see if this helps with diagnosis. There is self test method available, I'll give it to you if we need it.

1992 Mercury Cougar Engine   

I WOULD LIKE FIND A DIAGRAM THAT SHOWS THE ROUTING OF VACUUM HOSES ON A 1992 3.8 LITER NON SUPERCHARGED ENGINE. 9SPECIFICALLY FOR THE HOSES NEXT TO THE FIREWALL AND THE ROUTING FOR THE LARGE ONE PLUGGED INTO THE UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD)

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/14/df/e[redacted] dfe7.jsp

1992 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1992 Cougar LS, 3.8. Recently replaced defective headlamp switch. When we got the car back the drivers side doorlock no longer worked by the key. Inside rocker switch works, both sides. Any connection to the headlamp switch? Could the repairtech have messed this up while repairing the other switch? Are the circuits connected so this might be possible? Who pays is the ??

I will take a look at your wiring and see if I vcan find anything familiar

Thanks for getting back to me so soon. I need (ideally) to get an answer to this today. I'm wondering if, by chance, the tech shorted the door lock switch when he repaired the headlamp switch. Is that a possibility? Initially the garage said they'd take care of it gratis, now they want $100 to do the door lock cylinders (?) on both doors. I have the burnt switch here, very small. I think the designation on it is DL-B62. Only the key lock doesn't work. Thx.

From what i see in the diagram there is no relation with the head lights and the door locks, They both share a different fuse and relay.
It is possible that the mechanic knocked a wire or a connector loose during the installation , these are things that happen often.
If you mention it to the shop I am sure that they will take a look at it free of charge to make sure that it is or is not a problem that they caused.
I beleive that this is an issue that can be honestly brought up to the customer service of that shop.

Thanks for the useful info. One last thing: When they were replacing the h/lamp switch, could they have knocked into the connector or other to cause the keylock switch to short? It was working fine when we took the car in.
I'm thinking if I ask them they'll say "no way". So I need your advice, details as to how it could have happened. They'll say it was "just a coincidence". But, at first they were willing to fix it for free. What say you?

read the post I sent you at 3:24 I was approx8 minutes ahead of you.
Any reputable buisness will check it out before trying to transfer responsibility

Thanks for helping me out.

no problem I wish you the best with the shop

1992 Mercury Cougar Ignition System   

Noise while steering not while driving. Just started today. I thought I needed power steering fluid and had some put in at a local gas station. The noise is still prevalent. I don't trust gas station owners wherein they try to diagnose a problem. He charged me 10.00 for a spritz of power steering fluid. Please advise. and thank you

hi, could you please tell me if the noise happens only when driving and then when you turn the steering whilst moving or is the noise their when the car is stationary and you turn the wheel from left to right, also what sort of noise is it you are hearing, is it knocking noise, squeeling noise, grinding noise etc.
Let me know then i can assist you further ok

not while driving nor when stationary. Only when making turns onto different streets,etc

ok what sort of noise is it you hear, does it also happen every time you turn or not, and are you 100% sure it dont happen whilst stationary, try turning the wheel from left lock to right lock and listen for the noise.
Also if the fluid level got low then this could have pumped air into the steering system to remove this air make sure the fluid is topped up to max then turn the steering from left lock to right lock for a couple of minutes whilst keeping an eye on fluid level after a couple of minutes the air would be worked out so check this also.

Let me know what sound you are hearing

you indicated a reply to my response but nothing came through.

hi sorry i was asking you what kind of noise you hear.
Also if your steering fluid level was low it could have sucked air into the system to remove this air you need to make sure the fluid level is up to the max then with the car running and stationary you then need to work the steering from left lock to right lock for couple of minutes but keep an eye on fluid level and top up if needed.

I also asked is the noise their every time you make a turn whilst driving and what sort of noise are you hearing is it knock, squeek, grinding noise etc and does it make the noise when turning both ways or just left or right turns, let me know ok then i can assist you further ok

the gas station owner did put in some power steering fluid and I turned my wheel while the car was in operation to the left and to the right a couple of times but not minutes as you indicated. As I said it was only when I made sharp turns,i.e., onto another street. No noise when in operation. You said Air got in. Where would the air get in? Thanks

the air would only get in if the fluid level dropped to low or if you had a leek in one of the seals on the steering rack, im not saying this is what your problem is just given you some idea in case it was a case of the fluid level being low enough to allow air into the system.
What noise are you hearing when turning?
Does the noise happen whilst turning at low speed such as turning from a standing start or does it only happen when turning at certain speeds ie above 35kph etc.
please let me know what noise you hear as this helps me diagnose the problem you might have

I love this system of diagnosis - well then if the fluid was not considered LOW, however, he did put some in for $10 (the thief). He said it only needed a little. I drove the car about 11/2 miles from where the fluid was put in. So do you think it was air or something else. Thanks

ok, could you tell me if the noise was their before you went to garage it did it start happening after this time.
The garage should have gave you a small bottle full for that price not just top it up slightly.
As he said it only needed topping up a little bit then the chances are isnt your problem unless you have a leak,

I cant tell from your replies what kind of noise you are hearing, or if the noise was present before you got it topped up, i need to be able to rule out certain things being the problem such as ball joints, wheel bearing, track rod ends, steering rack, steering pump, for me to be able to give you a good idea of the exact cause of the noise i need to know what noise your hearing, when did the noise start and when does the car make the noise is it when your turning at speed or when turning from stationary possiton is the noise their whilst accelerating and turning or is the noise their when you turn whilst the car is all ready at speed and if the noise is their when turning left or when you turn right or both.

you need to let me know this so i can narrow down the cause of your noise

Just one more thing. He started to say something about bearings and if I wanted to leave the car. What would this noise have to do with bearings since I did have the front ones replaced a little while ago

right what he mentioning bearings for is if you had a worn or damaged wheel bearing then when you turn the car your putting more pressure on the bearing and then this would give you a sort of rough grinding noise, you would not hear it going strait but turning would put more pressure on the bearing.
How ever this noise could also mean your braks pads are low and the pressure of turning is forcing the pads onto the disk giving you the same noise.
Now what you can do to find out if it was a wheel bearing or brake problem is to jack the front of the car up and put it on axle stands now get each wheel and give it a good spin by hand and listen for any grinding noise, also check how low your brake pads are and also look to see if you have a raised rim and the brake disk itself if you do then the brakes need replacing, anyway spin the wheel listen for noise, then give the wheel a wiggle as if you forcing the wheel to turn left then right and feel for any play in the bearing also do this from top to bottom.
Now if you have left and right play then get someone to wiggle the wheel whilst you look at the track rod ends and checl for play their if their is no play their but their is play at the wheel then this indicates bad bearing, now do the same with the other side.
The chances are it will only be the one side with the problem.

Let me know what you find out ok

Would it be only one wheel bearing or all of them. I will take it to my regular repair person and with this information it will help me to decide. Would a tune up find this problem to be fixed whether wheel bearing or brakes. At least I will have back up information from you. How soon should I have this done and let me know if the tune up will show this problem.

hi, the chances are its only going to be on wheel bearing at fault and then chances are it will be one of the front ones as the rear only have fixed pressure and have no side ways pressure on them so its most likely a front wheel bearing if this is the problem, now if its a brake problem any mechanic could tell you this just by looking at the brakes with the wheels off so this shouldnt be a problem.
Now as for the wheel bearing if you inform the garage what i have told you they will then be inclined to pay closer attention to the wheel bearings and will then check the wheels for play and noise so make sure you mention you have spoken to a mechanic who has give you some ideas of the likely cause.

As your taking the car for a tune up they should check the brakes and ball joints etc etc but make sure you tell them their is a problem and this way they know their looking for a problem, as they may just have a quick look without paying much attention so mention these possible problems to them.

Tell them you have a noise when turning and you have been told it could be one of these problems.
1. wheel bearing.
2. track rod end.
3. low brakes, warped brake disk, or raised rim on the brake disk( they should see this without you telling them as this is covered in a basic service)

If the noise you hear is a knocking noise then the roll bar bushes and bottom ball joint need checking ok,

You will find the problem will be one of those listed but dont take it for granted that they will check without you telling them, so mention this and they should do a proper check of all these parts for you ok.

Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

I will keep all this in mind. The bearings etc. is it expensive. I will gladly let you know when I have this work done. I drove the car all day and no noise when I turned the wheel. How can I let you know when I do what I ahve to do. My compliments to your company this was the best advice I have ever received and on going also. If there was no noise is it a good sign, however, when I take it for the tune up I will mention the specifics you gave me. Thanks again

hi, with this site i am a car mechan who signs into the site in my spare time i dont actually work for the site so i dont get paid by the site, as i am between jobs at the moment i use this site to make a bit of pocket money for my 2 young children whilst i am out of work.
I enjoy helping people and i know that i am saving people money by diagnosing people problems saving them money in labour charges at the garage.

Any way back to your problem as the noise isnt their all the time you may find that its just a dry wheel bearing and may need greasing, how ever to do this you need to remove the bearing so replacing it would be your best option, the parts themselves are not expensive and you should only pay for about 2 or 3 hours labour depending on the exact cause of your problem.

It could be that you have a lip on your brake disks and this is whats causing the noise, i dont think you have a big problem with your car but you should get it sorted as soon as you can as if its a dry bearing it could seize on you.

Now if you need to contact met then you can contact me on my email witch is below.
Let me know how you get on, and thanks for using the site.

I dont even know the people who run the site so i cant give you much details about the site, how ever from what i do know their are loads of experts who sign in just like me to help solve peoples problem and earn a bit of poacket money witch always helps.
my email is [redacted]

you can email me and let me know how you get on or if you have any more questions, so once again thanks for using the site and good look with all you do

1990 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

i recently installed a radio... the dashbord instrument panel went out...digital.. changed 2 fuses...still no instrument panel... this includes gas gauge... what am i NOT doing to get back on?

Hello, Have you disconnected your radio completely to see if the dash will restore normal operation? Were the fuses you changed blown?

Please advise,

Roger

yes there was 2 blown fuses...a 15 and a 10 amp fuse was blown...
i totally disconnected radio...re-hooked it up...
radio is playing perfectly now... still no instrument panel...
i tried to do all i could think of... i thought there may be a reset that i uave missed...
are there other fuses i missed?

Will you please tell me the name/number of the fuses that were blown? I believe it will help me track down the problem. Did you determine which wires during the radio installation that were incorrectly corrected?

Please advise,

Roger

i changed the 5 amp fuse marked acc...
and the 15 amp fuse marked inst. panel...
i have re-ran the radio, so no wires from the previous installation are being used...
all wires in dash have been clipped and wrapped so there is no grounded wires...
i am at a loss as what i am not doing...
any thoughts...
thanks

Do you have a fax number? Would a cover sheet for the fax be needed?

Have you checked the 5 amp fuse marked "memory" in the underhood fuse block?

Roger

sorry for the delay in checking... big storm here in fl...
the 5 amp fuse for memory IS blown...
i will get another and change it out today...
do you think this will correct this?
will contact later today with results...
thanks

The 5 amp memory fuse is on a check list I have and it just might do the trick.

Before replacing the fuse, turn the ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect negative battery cable. Connect DVOM between ground and both terminals of memory (5-amp) fuse holder. If reading is 10k ohms or more, replace fuse. If reading is less than 10k ohms, repair short to ground in circuit 797 (Light Green/Purple wire), as necessary.

Roger

thanks... i changed the fuse, and PRESTO!!!
instant instruments...
thanks for the assist...worth every penny...
Thanx...

You are welcome. Thanks for the challenge. Ready to close this question? Please click on "OK to pay mechanic" to accept my answer.

Sailing on,

Roger

1990 Mercury Cougar Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always 

1990 Mercury Cougar. Brand new compressor, thought the old one was bad. Clutch would not engage on old one, will not engage on new one. System is charged.....why won't the clutch engage on the compressor and start cooling?

How did you charge the system? The compressor needs to be engaged to charge the system.

Have you checked for power to the compressor. If you don't have battery voltage to the compressor, disconnect and jump the low pressure switch. Do you have power to the compressor now, or left plugged in does the compressor kick on now?

Clutch will not engage to charge system. I jump the low pressure swtich and nothing happens. I pulled a vaccum on the system and was able to put in a can of r134a but since the compressor won't engage I can't put in any more. Switched out climate controls....nothing.

Have you checked relays and fuses? If you have a matching relay you can swap them for test purposes.

When you do get the compressor running, don't forget to add oil.

I have checked fuses. All good. The compressor clutch fuse is actually the same fuse for several other items that are all working. I added oil when I put the compressor in. Both the old and new compressor do the same thing.....clutch will not engage. Jumping low pressure switch, adding freon to vacuumed system, everything I've tried will not work.

Verify power or lack of power to the compressor. Jumper the low pressure switch and check for power to compressor connector (unplugged for testing) with the engine running- AC On. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

Alternatively and safer, you could jump the compressor (with a fused jumper) to see if it activates with a known good power source.

The following link contains a wiring diagram that should help you troubleshoot the circuit.

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] eb4a.gif

I'll check the circuit. I'm pretty sure the compressor is not getting power. Question: Am I reading the diagram correctly.....are there two cutoff switches between the climate controls and the clutch? If so, what/where are they? One I would think is the pressure switch....is there another and am I correct?

I believe one was the relay. Which engine do you have... supercharged?

Non-supercharged, 3.8

Were you able to locate the relay? The site I offered also has a component locator that hopefully has the location of the a/c relay (or WOT) relay. You may also find it listed in your owners manual.

1989 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My dash lights and radio light is not working,I check fuses,wires, and now I have the cluster lights out. as far as I know the rest of the lights are working

Hello, please clarify which lights are not working? Dash warning lights? Dash illumination lights?

Look and see if the tail lights on the car work. Often the dash illumination lights fuse gets power from the tail light fuse. If tail lights are not working the dash illumination may not either. Recheck the fuse for the tail lights.

Roger

Hi.yes the tail light work,and everything but the dash,it will show the seat belt ,and the door ajar,but that is all on the cluster. on the radio ,the knobs illuminats,but the led will not light up and I can not get a station, I found out if I turn the key off and on I do get a couple of words,but very soft

Is this a digital cluster? There may be a regulator problem or a problem with the cluster it self.

Parts availability is questionable. I'm not sure I can help here.

Do you want to release the question for others to answer? I won't be offended.

Roger

Yes it,s a digital cluster,it o.k.to ask for help ,but I need some kind of a sulltion Jim

I am not finding where the cluster regulator is located or how to check it. I won't get to access a better data base than I have here at home until tomorrow.

I'll release the question for others to try and help. You deserve a better answer.

Thanks,

Roger

Did both of these problems start at the same time? You may have more than one problem.

Does the cigar lighter work? If this circuit fails the radio will often stop working.

As for the lights, have you tested the illumination switch (the one that brightens and dims the interior lighting)?

Hi..Yes it did start the same time,I,m Quite sure it started when I was putting an antenal, Yes the cigar works, yes the light will brightens and dims Jim

I'm confused, I thought the light were not working at all, but they will brighten and dim?

Hi.. The light do work on the knobs,and the air condisitioner,tail lights,and all ,but it will not light up the cluster,or the radio LED lights,or will not change stations,(the only way I Know it will not change stations is because if I turn the key back and forth,it will get a couple of words, then it will fade out,but when I hear the words it is very soft) Jim

1989 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

all of a sudden my rear brake lights and rear running lights as well as rear directionals(front running lights,front directionals(blink faster)and headlights as well as license plate and high brake light all work) are not working including rear hazards only. where do i start?

Brake and tail lights inop? Start by checking the fuses as in any electrical troubleshooting process.

Roger

wouldn't a fuse work a whole circuit not just half,like running lights working in front but not in back

No it would not. Tail lamps are fused seperately. The tail lamp fuse often powers the dash lights fuse on an analog panel.

This happened all at once so check your fuses. And give me a chance to answer. I'm working many questions!

Roger

sorry for the rush, this car is all digital i was going to check fuses first. i just thought there might be a faster way to get me right to the sources. all other electrical lights and fucntions work fine. i will be more patient waiting on a anwser?

Fuses are the first thing to check in any sudden loss of a system function.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the exterior lighting? I can't access one until the data base I need comes up at 1:00 p.m, CDT.

Please note that you are releasing the question with each reply. Is that your intention? This is not a live chat.

Roger

Still need help?

Roger

Although some of the circuits share a common fuse, I do not believe they all do. I would check the main wiring harness in the trunk, especially if you have been carrying cargo there.I am thinking that either a main plug or ground came undone. Either way, you will have to carefully check the wiring, starting with the trunk area and working forward to the dash area.

1988 Mercury Cougar Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

can't find where the fuel pump relay switch is located to replace

Are you absolutely sure that it is the relay and not the electricfuel pump in the tank? The relay

1988 Mercury Cougar All Part Groups Failing When troubleshooting No pattern

I keep having Alternators fail on me. I believe it is something in the wiring harness. I replaced the electrical connector that plugs into the alternator that didn't seem to fix the problem. It appears that my problem is intermittant. When I first hook up the alternator and ck it/it shows bad. But, I can drive on it for awhile before my battery goes dead. I know the battery will run the car by itself for awhile. But I can have my ac running the radio headlights and everything working for a couple of days before my battery dies. I am also aware that if I do not disconnect the battery the diodes in the alternator goes bad. I recently replaced my starter Solenoid due to my boyfriend broke a bolt off on the one side. But not really sure the correct way to hook it up and the books really dont show what wires go where. I am also aware that there is a "I" and a "S" on the Solenoid for the wires to go to.But which one take two and which one takes three? Or do they both only take two?

I is possible that you are installing the wrong alternator or have the wrong battery in the car
the first test you want to do is after you get the car running disconnect the pos batt post and see if the car continues to run?

As for the solenoid the i and s could be different according to system
he The way it works is when you turn the key it puts a positive charge to the solenoid causing the solenoid to extract a forklike lever which forces the starter gear out into the flywheel. simutaneously there are a set of contacts that close which allows the starter motor to turn [the solenoid is the relay to engage the starter motor]

If you tell me what color the wires are and the gauge I may be able to tell you where they go
I hope this helps macconeck

I do not think it is possible that I am installing the wrong alternator. Although nothing would surprise me. I have been getting my alternators through Napa and I guess I just have been taking their word that they are giving me the right one. So far I have gotten three of them from them.
Yes, when I disconnect the positive on my battery the car dies. But, the one alternator I received, sometimes the car died sometimes it didn't when I tested it that way. I also bought a machine that will test the alternator whether it is good or bad and with that paticular alternator sometimes it showed good and sometimes it showed bad. When I disconnected my positive cable just now too see if my car was going to die or not, it reved itself up and then down and then up again, like someone was sitting behimd the wheel hitting the gas petal. But, no one was helping me, then all of a sudden then it died. Wierd.
I also heard that the ground wire that connects under the engine of my car may be the problem as well. Have you ever heard of that. If the ground wire has a rusty or bad connection that will also zap the alternator.
Would it really matter what kind of battery I use in my car? I didn't think that would really even matter. Although it did have a top post in it and the post was hitting my hood, so I figured that was my problem. But since then went to a side post battery and same thing.
My Solenoid has one green and black stripped wire,then clumped together it has 2 black and orange striped wires and one yellow, lastly it has one big black one. And another big black one.

Yes it is possible to have the alternator and battery mismatched.
The battery could be over charging destroying it.
The batt could also be putting too much load on the alternator destroying it.
One thing you can do is have the charging system tested by a shop ,it is usually free or charge.
A loose ground wire would not cause these symtoms although I would not rule t as a part orf the problem you are having,be sure to tighten all the connections possible.
I will check on the wiring

I did some digging and cannot get ded info on the wiring for thew starter
Part of it we can figure out
1 The large hole connector wires go on the big stater post threaded stud it should be colored brass along with whatever other large connectors you have to connect.
then go inside and turn the ignition key as if to start the car ,the lead that lights up when you attemt to start is the switch wire to power up the solenoid it goes on the small treaded stud coming off of the solenoidand you also need to piggy back the other small connector wires with it
OK
I hope this helps

1988 Mercury Cougar Fuel System Won't Start  No pattern

My car does not want to start when I have a full tank of gas It seems to start and run ok when I have 3/4 of a tank or less Please advise

Does the engine flood when you have a full tank? Is to much fuel the reason it won't start?

The car is starving for gas, not flooding.

The problem is with the fuel pump/sending unit assembly.

Is this something electrical that I can test with my engine codes?

It would be a good idea to check the trouble codes.

Do you know what the code is for that part? Do you also know what two numbers I need to cross jump to use the electric codes on the cougar?

I don't believe there is a code for this component. I was just letting you know that it's a good idea to check trouble codes anytime you have a no start or rough running condition. Autozone/Advance Auto/Etc will pull the trouble codes free of charge.

1988 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I need some kind of wiring diagram for the instrument cluster that would include the gas gauge, speedo, and water temp gauge. That one side is not working and is there a ground wire from there connecting to the radio that would cause it not to work? I already checked fuses.

Would the blue circuit on the back of the instrument cluster have something to do with it also?

You could substitute a known good ground to confirm or elimate the ground.

I assume this is the electronic cluster, these are known for failure (the circuitry in the cluster itself gets bad). Not easy to repair, it'd be much simpler to replace it. Price used ones that come with a warranty.

What ground are you talking about? Is there not a wiring schematic for the cluster?

Hello, I'll need your email address or a fax number to send you schematics for the IPC. (two pages)

Roger

Hey Roger my email addy is [redacted] and thanks again for ur help.

When I printed the diagrams the print was too small so I took them to KINKO's to have the images enlarged.

The prints are ready and I'll send them along.

Roger

hey roger my cluster has 2 connectors but i cant find on the schematics which one goes to which one can you help me on that part?

Sure, Look carefully at the connector drawn next to the cluster. See the A at the end of one set of wire colors and the B at the end of the second set?

Match the wire colors to the A or the B and you are on track.

Roger

Hey Roger, I turn the car on and touch each of the wires going to the connectors on the silver part and there are some that dont make a noise on the voltmeter does that mean they dont have power going to them or do I have to be moving for them to work?

They won't all have power. Using the wiring diagram you can trace each wire from the cluster to the circuit source by color.

Roger

Hey Roger, I have a dumb question. I got another cluster and everything works except for the gas gauge but on the dimmer part is it not connected to the light switch? I can barely see my speedo.

The dimmer control for the instruments should not have effect unless the Park, or Headlights are on.

Are the two clusters from the same model year? Maybe you have recourse with the supplier/seller and can try another one.

Roger

Yes they are from the same model. The only place I have been able to locate one from is a salvage yard. Would u suggest redoing the wiring harness or how hard would it be to switch from a digital speedo to a cable speedo?

I don't think rewiring the car is the answer. Was there an analog cable driven speedometer available in your year model? Some analog gauges are still electronic.

Will the salvage yard exchange the cluster again?

Have you examined the circuit board on the original cluster for damaged?

I wonder what happened to the gas gauge? If the original worked can it be swapped into the newest cluster?

Roger

The gas gauge didnt work in the old one either. Here is another idea to toggle on. The guy I bought the car from said everything worked until they took the factory radio out but I have been through the schematics and cant find anything. Would that cause that part of the cluster to go bad and not work? Yes I have examined the newest cluster for damage and it looks good.

What does it mean when someone took out the factory radio? Did they cut wires? Is there another radio installed?

Connector A for the cluster shows terminal 4 has two Yel-Wht wires that are the circuit for the fuel gauge sending unit signal to the gauge.

Do you find wiring cut/spliced/taped in the radio area that include Yel-Wht?

Roger

Ok its terminal 13 and it only has one wire. On your schematics for the radio does it show you a red wire? Its hooked in with the other wires and I have it grounded right now, not knowing what it is for. I found the dimmer problem and it was a bad bulb.

Let's look at this again. The digital cluster is drawn on the right side of the page and the standard cluster is drawn on the left side of the page.

Connector A terminal #12 is a Yel/Wht wire coming from the fuel tank sending unit to the gauge.

I don't have access to a radio wiring diagram at my home.

Roger

Now which one are you looking at? The ones that fit my car is on the second page at the bottom for connector A and B. Terminal #13 has the yel/wht wire and it shows 2 but on the car it only has 1.

All right, I was believing you had a digital cluster. Don't worry about the one vs. two wires.

I'll see if I can get a radio wiring diagram today.

Roger

No the only thing on my cluster that is digital is the speedo. The temp and the gas gauge both have dials.

I still haven't found the wiring diagram for the radio. I'm still trying.

Roger

I've looked in the resources I have and I do not find the radio wiring diagram seperate from the instrument cluster wiring I sent you.

That is really odd. On the right side of one of the pages I sent you will see the Radio Illumn Relay drawn for the 2.3L. Also find just below it is the Clstr Illum Relay with a circuit to the Radio. These are just lighting circuits.

So, what happens if you disconnect the red wire that is grounded you are telling me about? What color wire does it connect to in the car's harness?

Roger

it runs along and connects to the plug that carries the rest of the radio wires like the power and the speaker wires. i cant find anything about the red wire or what it belongs to. i thought it was a ground so i grounded it.

It would be very rare for a red color coded wire to be a ground. If the red wire originates in the connector for the radio and was not connected to anything when this all began just leave it disconnected.

Do all functions of the radio work? Radio station memory and clock memory stay accurate?

Does the car have an automatic antenna?

Roger

1983 Mercury Cougar Ignition System   

I have an intermittent ignition problem in which the starter spins but the engine doesn't fire. The non-starting problem can last for only a few attempts, after which the engine starts up just fine, or it can persist until I need to jump the battery. I've replaced the battery, the battery cables, the starter solenoid (twice),the cap and rotor, the spark plugs, the coil, and the ignition module. And I still have the problem.

With all the conponets you have replaced
It sounds like a problem with your timing
either the timing is off a degree or so or the chain is worn or faulty

I'm willing to look into that possibility; but why would it be fine most of the time, and then suddenly not even fire? I've been replacing parts with the assumption that one of the electrical components has been behaving in a go-no go fashion. My approach has not fixed the problem, admittedly, but a worn timing chain would create a problem that got progressively worse, right?

This sounds like the pick-up coil inside the distributor is failing.

If the problem only happens cold, you can raise the distributor cap and heat the pick-up with a hair dryer. Warming it will likely restore function if the problem only occurs cold.

You could also measure the ohms when the problem is not present and compare the reading when the problem is present to see if there is a noticeable difference.

Also check for distributor wear.

I replaced the cap and rotor within the past month without affecting the problem. I think I've replaced every pertinent engine-electrical part except the harness. Mcconnel's answer seemed credible to me so far as maybe the slop in the mechanical timing components sometimes exceeds the computer's ability to compensate; but I was hoping to hear someone expand on that idea, since it's just a guess on my part. This car has only recently turned 100K, and it's been treated well for the most part. I wouldn't have suspected the timng gears and chain. But, as I said before, my theories have all failed.

Let me know which engine you have.

Timing is unlikely. If the chain was off a tooth it be off all the time and you'd notice it consistantly as a probable hard starting issue, definite performance and economy issues.

I've got the 302 with the throttle-body fuel injection.

Okay, next time this happens spray a small amount of carb/throttle body cleaner into the throttle body and see if the engine fires. You may have spark but be missing fuel.

Have you checked for spark to the plugs during the no start?

If you know you are missing spark to the plugs, copy and paste the following link into your address bar to view a picture of the pick-up coil I mentioned previously-

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=200&ptset=A&searchfor=Pickup%2fStator

Have you replaced this part also? If you haven't test it when the failure occurs.

1969 Mercury Cougar Fuel System   

RE: FORD CARBURATOR MODEL C9ZFB 2V
FUEL DRAINS FROM BOWL, TO A LEVEL OF ABOUT 3/8 INCH. OVERNIGHT. WHEN REACHES THIS STATE, NO FUEL IN FUEL LINE FROM CARBURATOR ALL THE WAY BACK TO TANK. NO LEAKS VISIBLE, IN ANY LINES OR EXTERIOR OF CARB.
TESTED FOR INTERNAL LEAKS, BY REMOVING CARB AND PLACING ON TOWEL AND FILLING OVERNIGHT, NOTHING FOUND. THIS RESULTS IN HARD STARTING AS LINE MUST BE PRIMED. CAN THIS BE SYPHONING BACK TO TANK? IS THERE A ONE WAY CHECK VALVE IN THE SYSTEM?

These carbs usually do not have that problem, but a weak fuel pump, that is starting to wear out, would exhibit that problem. It would be the first place I would check.

HAVE REPLACED FUEL PUMP, NO CHANGE

It sounds like there is still air is getting into the fuel system, unfortunately it's not always easy to see where it's getting in.
Have you checked the seal of your gas cap?
You need to isolate the line before and after the pump so you can see what is wide open and allowing the fuel to find it's own level and way out.
When you do this test something will give.
The best way to test a check the line is to blow through it. You should be able to blow through from one direction but not the other. If you can blow through it in both directions it's no good.

You can buy a checkvale to put in the fuel line from a parts or try to match one up. I'm pretty sure you will find one that will work.

If not, you can switch to a low pressure electric fuel pump that has a check valve built into it

1968 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade When repairing Always

I AM LOOKING FOR A COMPANY THAT SELLS COMPLETE WIRING HARNESS FOR MY 68 MERCURY COUGAR/ 302 2BBL

Are you wanting a new or used harness? Did you try the All-Parts link for a search result?

One place that comes to mind is www.obsoletefordparts.com in Oklahoma City, OK.

Roger

Hello, Still want/need help?

Roger

still looking if you come across any info that would help me get started in my search please email - [redacted]

Are both of my suggestions dead ends?

Roger

Ford/mercuryobselet OK city Ok replied " we do not have what you need.

All right, I'll search some more. Did All-Parts reply?

Roger

Using the GOOGLE search engine on the internet I typed " Ford classic car parts wiring harness" and got over 42,000 hits. Have you been this route?

Roger

Ok thanks Roger, i will try that right now.

I'm hoping you get favorable results!

Roger

Any luck here?

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1968 Mercury Cougar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I was out driving my car one day and smell something funny, like burning wires. I stoped to walk my dog for about an hour and then realized that I had left the headlights on. I tried to start the car and it would not start. I got a jump and went to pick up my wife from were she was getting her car worked on 10 minutes away. I turned my car off for about 15 minutes and then went to leave and the car would not start again. I had a old cheap battery so I just decide that as long as I was there I might as well buy a good one. I purchased an Optima red top and installed it and the car would still not start, no sound, no lights at all. I tested the new battery and it was fully charged. I jumped it anyway just for kicks and the car started, so the guy at the shop told me that my starter relay was probably bad and that I had coroded battery wires. After that jump the car stayed running and I made it home, about 20 miles. When I got home, I put the car in the garage and left it alone for about a week. Once I finally had some time I went out and tried to start the car and once again, no sound, no lights. I went out and purchased new battery wires, starter relay, and a alternator harness and installed them. No joy. I had my alternator and battery tested and the alternator is good and the new battery now needed a charge. I installed the alternator back on and re-installed the old battery since the new one was getting charged and jumped the car again and it started. It ran for about two minutes with the AMP light on in the dash and then died again. I tried this a couple times, always with the same results.

Hello, I read through your recent events with the car.

You said nothing about finding any wires that had burned or the source of the burning smell. Did the alternator harness have damage that called for replacement? Or, are you talking about replacing the wire from the battery positive cable connection to the alternator?

Roger

Still working on this one?

Roger

THE ALTERNATOR HARNESS LOOOKED A LITTLE CRISPY SO I REPLACED IT AND STILL NO LUCK.

Been awhile...still starts and dies?

What is your email address? I'll send you a wiring diagram for the alternator. You can check the wires by color and see what goes where.

Check the fusible links that connect to the starter solenoid switch for condition.

Roger

I towed the car to a mechanic in the area and he troubleshot it to a bad connection in the alternator harness and a bad voltage regulator. I went to pick it up and it started fine and stayed running. I got it home and the next day it wouldn't start again, I jumped it and it started and stayed on, but when I turn it off it wont start without a jump. I called the mech again and he said that it is my starter? I'm going to replace the starter this weekend and see if that fixes the problem. My e-mail is [redacted] if you want to send me those schematics, I'd appreciate it. Thanks

Was the battery recharged and tested? There are tests that can be done with the starter on and off the car to confirm it has a problem.

Roger

THE BATTERY WAS GOOD. IF I PUT A SCREWDRIVER ON THE STARTER RELAY, IT'LL TURN OVER. IS IT THE STARTER?

The wire on the "S" terminal of the starter relay is switched hot by the ignition switch when held in the start position.

Check this wire and see if voltage is there when the key is in the start position.

What did you find? If battery voltage is present but the starter doesn't work replace the starter.

Roger

2 mechanics and $197.00 later the problem was still there. I went home and removed my starter to have it tested and when I removed the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter, it was burned, crispy, and corroded. I replaced the wire and problem solved. Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it.

Thanks for your patience. If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up.

My best to you,

Roger

1967 Mercury Cougar Windows / Glass   

I have a 1967 mercury cougar that I had rebuilt. It runs good with one exception, it squeeks under the hood. When it's driven it sounds like someone continously squeezing a sqeeky toy, like for for dogs. I've taken it in the shop but no one seems to be able to get rid of the noise. You think I should wd-40 all the nut's & bolts. Can you help or give me some advise. Thanks, TCCOUG

The squeak is coming form something loose and rubbing something else. You need to find the spot and then either tighten it, lubricate it, or put a pad between the squeaky surfaces. Finding the point will be the most difficult part.

Find a way to duplicate the problem. Is it when the car is moving, sitting still withthe engine running, going over rough roads, going over bumps?

Eliminate all the other noises possible, and keep duplicating the problem (turn engine off, etc.) Then try it with the hood open, 1/2 open. If that makes a difference, it could be the hood itself. Put some rags around the edge of the hood, close it and then see if it goes away. If eliminated, remove the rags bit by bit until you find which point the noise was coming from.

tricks are to have someone brave ride under the hood and listen, touch, twist, pry on things to find the source. (Please do this in a safe place and safe way!)

We have found some very amazing sources for noise already, sometimes after hours of checking. A stethoscope can be helpful, and a tool called "chassis ear" is ideal. It is a sound system with inputs from 6 magnetic microphones you place on suspected places, and can be moved to find the source of the noise.

1967 Mercury Cougar Ignition System   

I have a 67 Courgar and the wiring was melted when i got it. i repaired the wiring but not sure what are how many wires hook up to the metal stud on the back of the ign switch. and what color they are.

Send me your email address
and I will forward you a
complete wiring diagram for
a 67 Stang/Cougar
[redacted]