Mercury Cougar XR7

2007 Mercury Cougar XR7 Engine   

Engine light is on. Car stalls out when I come to a stop unless I keep a foot on the gas.

Okay, the first thing you need to do is find out what trouble codes are in the vehicles computer. Autozone and Advance Auto will check the trouble codes free of charge (depending on the year).

How far must you hold the gas on?

What year is your car, I assume not a 2007?

Please let us know what year your car is so we can offer assistance on the problem.

1997 Mercury Cougar

Okay, go to your local Autozone and have the trouble codes read (free service). Let me know which alphanumeric codes they find, EG- P0400, P0345, etc and we'll continue.

I went to Autozone, and they said they couldn't do a report because there was no place to plug into by the fuse box. My check engine light and low coolant light are on. My coolant isn't low. They said it was probably some computer sensor malfunction. Any ideas?

Is the coolant reservoir low at all?

Look under hood for your Emissions sticker. Study the sticker and see if it says anywhere that the vehicle is "OBD2" compliant. If it is the parts store can check for codes. Let me know and I'll give the location of the 16 pin diagnostic connector.

It didn't say on the sticker or in the owner manual that it is OBD2 compliant.

Was this car sold originally in the USA? All cars from '96 and up are supposed to be OBD2 compliant.

A few things to check. One is to see if the egr valve is hanging open (this will not allow the engine to idle at desired rpm's).

Also check thoroughly for vacuum leaks.

If the idle speed motor (IAC valve) is stuck closed this will not allow the engine to have enough air to idle (especially if the throttle blade is dirty. It is good maintenance to clean the IAC and throttle body including both sides of the throttle blade.

You could still have another sensor problem preventing proper idle. You need to have the trouble codes checked to determine this. I may have DIY-er instructions, but not if the car is OBD2 compliant (requires a scan tool.)

I really don't know how to do the things you said. Can you tell me possible locations of the 16 pin connection to test for the codes. It is not by the fuse box., and the car was purchased in the United States. It is a 1997 Mercury Cougar XR7

They are almost always located on the lower part of the dash (a little lower than knee level, may have a diagnostic cover that need to be removed. I'll have more information later if you need it.

Please send more info

Use the following link that shows the general location-

http://obdclearinghouse.com/files/dlc-database.pdf

My repair software is temporarily unavailable, I hope to have it tonight.

1997 Mercury Cougar XR7 Fuel System   

I have a 97 cougar with engine code # P1443 and the idle fluctuates high & low when armed up?

Clear the code (disconnect the negative battery cable for ten minutes or pull the PCM fuse, or the reset is simple if you have a code reader). Test drive and see if the code comes back. If it does we'll continue.

The idle fluctuation could be caused by many things. The best places to start looking are the idle air control valve (remove and clean) and vacuum leaks.

Check these on these and get back to me.

I have reset engine code a couple times using code reader but P1443 code keeps coming back. On some cold mornings check engine light actually turn off. Is that code for the Evaporative Emission Control System Control Valve ?? On other issue, I will check Idle control valve for dirt & vac leaks.

Several things can cause the code. The gas cap not seating properly should not be overlooked. Next on the list is the canister purge solenoid and sensor. Be sure to inspect for a any loose/damaged vacuum hoses around the the canister area.

Thanks! Replacing the idle air control valve has stabilized the idle. I then resecured several vac hoses after the install & the check engine light has not come on yet. Now if I can just get the temp lower. Any sugggestions, or is that another case? I've just flushed radiator & recently put new thermostat& housing on when I replaced plastic intake.

How hot is the engine running?

Under what conditions does it run hot; at a traffic light/idling, at highway speed, always, etc?

engine temp runs a little above normal when car is moving but heats up more in stop & go traffic. I'm starting to suspect 10 yr old fan may be wearing out.

Feel the radiator for hot and cold spots, which would indicate blockage. Flushing works sometimes. Was there much debris?

Definitely check the fan. See if it kicks on when it should, idling in the driveway

You may also have weak water pump. Make sure coolant flow is strong.

Fan does cool when it's on but dash temp gauge shows above norm b-4 fan kicks in. Water pump (repalced 1.5 yrs ago) does move pretty green anti freeze especially after many flushes & repalcing stretched, worn out S belt. Could it be thermostat or Grey temp sensor (going to ECM)??

Has the operating temperature of your engine changed since replacement replaced the previous thermostat (did the problem start right after)?

temp did not change when last thermostat installed; I just noticed it climbing little by little recently.

The thermostat or temp sensor are possible, this is especially true with aftermarket thermostats (dealer t'stats are recommended). Also, have you checked the temp sensor to make sure debris haven't accumulated on it, affecting its reaction time.

Oh, debris on temp sensors. Yes that's very possible considering how many radiator flushes it took to get water from dark milky brown to clean. Also a dealer t' stat sounds more reliable. Good tips !!

1996 Mercury Cougar XR7 Ignition System   

Where is the ignition module, I have been unable to locate anywhere. This should not be this difficult to find.

After 1995 Fords, had no stand alone Ignition Control Module (ICM). It has been integrated into the OCM. The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP),Spark Output (SPOUT), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) and Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) have also been enclosed in the PCM. The functionality of the ignition remains the same.

I have the component in my hand it is what is bad and it needs replaced. I'm not sure what and ocm is. This engione is 3.8 V6 no distributor the coil pack checks out ok and i do have voltage. According to the manual the ignition module is the culprit but have been unable to locate under the hood. I'm told it is on the right side up by the radiator.

1995 had an ign module. Do you know the production date?

I am assuming that you are looking at the "engine' side of the rad support. Try standing in front of the car, and looking (with a light) through the grille on the passenger side of the rad. If it is there, I am assuming Ford thought it was a cool location. Ensure that you use Dielectric grease under it, as it dissipates heat.

Is it possible that this model does not even have a ignition module like the 4.6 V8, I have looked through the grill under the grill all over this ignition module is not there. In addition, the schematic has only two oxygen sensors but this vehicle has four.

A I said earlier 96 and newer Cougars do NOT have an ignition module....

4 O2 sensors mean OBD 2 emissions that have capability to test catalytic converters and give a diagnostic code if one is bad...

The pcm was changed and the car still won't start. What else could be the problem? The pcm it came from a salvage company it is possible that it is still no good. Would the constant power control module cause a no start. What would cause the blower to come on soon as the key is turned to the on position? This did not do this before the car stop running.

Sounds like a computer problem. PCM's from wrecks can get a problem, when adjoining wiring gets damaged from being shorted out.

So it is more likely that this pcm is still the problem? Would the other module cause a similar issue?

It would set a 'check engine' light and corresponding code(s)

This cougar as stated before just quit running on the highway. No idicator lights no service engine nothing. Fule is ok no spark at the plugs.

I was not aware as to the origional problem, as the first question was as to the location of a component.
The first thing that I would test would be the battery charge and if the alternator is charging 13.5 volts.
Then , even though you say fuel is ok, I would do a fuel pressure test. Then I would check the ignition coil output.
If it were a sensor problem you would get either a check engine or a trouble code. You will need a scanner for that

Battery is good and I did just that the pressure of the fuel is good. No spark at the plugs, coil checks to be good with and ohm meter.

Check all voltage at the sensors (most are 5v)
Check the crankshaft position sensor for operation

1995 Mercury Cougar XR7 Engine   

When I start the car it shuts off intermittently. It may run for 2 second or 30 seconds, then it shuts off. I give it gas ad this doesn't make a difference. What is casuing the problem? What are the most likely parts I should check?

By not making a difference when you give it gas, does this mean (when the engine runs for 30 seconds) it will or will not rev up? If it will not rev up it probably has inadequate fuel pressure (fuel pump). You will need to check fuel pressure with a gauge to confirm this.

When the engine does run for bit, does the check engine light go off? If not the PCM (computer) sees a problem and the trouble codes need to be checked. If your car is OBD2 compliant (data link connector under dash 16 pins AND/OR a sticker under hood saying the car is OBD2 compliant), some AutoZone stores will lend you a code scanner (for a fully refundable deposit) and you can check the codes. Let me know which alphanumeric codes you find, eg- P0300, P0401, etc.

The car is ODBII, but when I run the scanner, no codes appear.
I disconnected the air intake from the throttle body and the car ran, no problems. I reconnected the air intake, but left the plug to the mass air sensor off and it still ran. The next day the car still wouldn't run. I then cleaned the wire of the mass air sensor and the connector on the mass air sensor with electronics cleaner (no, didn’t touch the wire). I reconnected everything and it didn’t run. I went back to removing the air intake from the throttle body and it ran. I put the air intake on while leaving the mass air sensor wire, vacuum and pcv line disconnected and it ran. I reconnected the mass air sensor and it shut down. I then disconnected the mass air sensor wire and it ran for about 20 sec. Then it shut down. I then tried disconnecting and reconnecting all of those items in different combinations including removing the air intake again and it won’t run in any configuration. What should I do next?

If the engine is running better with the MAF sensor disconnected, it appears the MAF is bad.

1995 Mercury Cougar XR7 Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

passenger fornt shock sounds like it bottoming out on bumps. Had receipts from a service shop in the glove compartment when I bought it showing it was there twice in the month before for the same problem. Front strut was replaced then.

Hi, It's best to have a front end specialist check it out. It doesn't sound reasonable for it to have failed again but there may be a problem with either workmanship or materials.

Roger

according to the previous owner and the receipts replacementt of the strut did not eliminate the noise. Tires show no abnormal wear and handling is fine. is it possible not properly installed? or could the noise be coming from somewhere else. Had looked at a 96 cougar on a lot previous to buying this one that had the same noise

A front end specialist that does alignments will check it over for you. He'll check struts, linkage and stabilizer bar bushings.

It is very possible that the strut is fine and was in the first place since no improvement occured after two attempts.

I recommend a check up for safety sake. I hope you can locate such a service for free.

I have my customers drive first and demonstrate what concerns them. Then I drive and show them I too can duplicate the noise. Then after I'm on my own I know what to do to be sure I'm working on the same concern my customer has.

When the car is fixed a road test tells me if I've done my job.

Roger

1995 Mercury Cougar XR7 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

stalls then wont restart, 3.8

Hello, Does the engine stall without warning? Is the problem worse when the engine is warmed up or still cold?

When it will not restart have you checked for spark and fuel pressure when the condition is present? What did you find?

Roger

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 Engine Malfunction When driving No pattern

While driving (at any speed, in any gear, in any weather condition)for no apperant reason will increase rpm's by about 1500-2500 for a few seconds and then kick back down. The engine actually does rev up, not just the gauge moving. The car does not go any faster when this happens. Kind of like it going in to a passing gear, but it will do it even if you are already in OD or if you are in first. I have had the engine and transmission ran on machines at a half a dozen different dealerships and speciality shops and no problems were found. It is not kicking any codes in the computer for either engine or transmission. It has been doing it for about four years. At first it was once every couple of months and then not again for a few, but now it is every time you drive it numerous times. I have kept up with the maintenence of all fluids and filters. I have had the computer reprogramed, then replaced, then reprogramed again. I have had the intake manifold taken off and cleaned of all carbon deposits. I have replaced many other parts and had lots of other work done, but it is too much to list. I dont want to get rid of this car, but it is becoming very unsafe.

To me it sounds like the Lock-Up portion of the torque converter is shot. What the lock-up does is act like a manual clutch and locks the engine to the transmission, when it engages and disengages it almost seems as if you are changing to another gear (the car stays the same speed but the rpms go up or down) this should only engage when the transmission is in the 4th gear but when they malfuction they can produce things like you described. The torque converter is on the front of the transmission and is circle shaped, it is connected to the flywheel on the engine and to the front shaft of the transmission. You may either need to replace the converter itself, check the sensors that regulate the lock-up or the wiring harness since you already changed the computer. Good luck. Mike

If it is the lock up portion of the torque converter that is going out, wouldn't the RPM's only increase by only 300-500? Also, is there any way to test this part to see if it is indeed the problem with my car? This would be good for me to know before I take it anywhere to have it looked at. Thanks.

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When stopped Always

I have a 1994 Mercury cougar that I bought last september, I had no problem's for 9 month's and all of the sudden my car wont start without a jump start. I had a new battery put in and the problem is still there. I also noticed that when I had the new battery put in that there is a green wire connected to the battery and it's apparantly for the clock,radio,brake light & Interior light's. I have tried taking off the wire but then my brake light's don't work and I can't shift my gear in reverse or drive so that was out of the question. Is there some where else that I can put that wire so that it won't drain my battery constantly? How much would it cost to have it rewired? I also have a big blue fuse under the hood in a black box that went out twice in a week, but after the second time I put a new one in it and it didn't do it anymore (so far). Also I have a fuse under the dash that keep's blowing, it's the one that read's the volt's for the battery. When my car won't start all the light's are still on but when I turn the key I just hear a clicking noise. But it's fine when it's started and it run's real good and I get good gas miliage. Why would it do this all of the sudden? I think it might be the altonator but I'm not sure and wouldn't know where I can have that checked. Any information you can help on would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
sincerly,
Teresa

Hello, Well you sure must be frustrated to have all of these events just jump out at you.

Rewiring is probably the answer here but to estimate the cost will require someone locally to inspect your car's original wiring to see why all this aftermarket wiring was called for in the first place.

Was there a short that burned/damaged the original wiring in the car's history? You most likely couldn't know that. But something has happened or these add-on circuits would not be there.

Electrical drains on a battery are called "parasitic drains". They should not exceed 35 miliamps. Your car needs to be tested to see what the amount of drain is and isolate the cause of the excessive amount. Restoring the car's wiring to original design doesn't mean replacing the whole wiring harness.

There is no reason to run extra (or new) circuits directly off the battery. That is what fuse boxes are for.

Have someone take a look and see why these fuses keep popping. Ask what they charge for labor per hour? I will only do wiring repair by the actual clock time I spend on such a problem. I actually "clock-in" with a time stamp from our time clock right on the repair order. I don't smoke and I don't take breaks beyond a drink of water or a short restroom break. It's about stewardship and certainly, honesty. Some guys bid the job as a complete "package". There might be a minimum charge if you stop the work while in progress.

Your alternator can be tested for free at a national auto parts chain store. Give them a call and confirm this is your area.

Ask friends, the BBB, and relatives who is a fair and honest technician in your area. Keep him on a tight leash and don't authorize what you don't understand to be necessary. Ask for monetary check points that mean the technician cannot go beyond a preset dollar figure without reaffirming your commitment to fund further repairs. Make him stick to the original problem and avoid "extras" that can be done at a later time when you are ready.

Roger

Hello, any change in the status of this question?

Just checking in with you,

Roger

Hello Roger,

I had my car re-wired and it ended up being worse than it was! After my car was re-wired it blew all the fuse's!! Every single one of them. It costed me to $300.00 to have it re-wired and after it blew all the fuses, we had to put that same green wire back on the battery and now I have to start my car every 4hrs. and drive it around the block or else the battery will completly drain and I will have to get a jump start. I also had the altanator checked and they said it was fine. So now I'm stuck with the same problem all over again. Also short on $300.00, which I have been trying to get refunded back but the mechanic wont. I say if he didn't fix the problem then I shouldn't be charged for it. I took it to one of my friend's mechanic and he has been taking his car to him for years and has never had a problem with him. Do you think I should have gotten my money refunded to me? I don't know any rulse or law's that mechanic's have and anything you can tell me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for checking in with me! It's great to know there is a good mechanic out there who care's!!!
Teresa

It should be clear to this mechanic that he did not fix the car and that he did not improve the car and no matter how much he thinks he has earned the $300, I completely agree with you that he does not deserve payment. This is not an excercise in cycling your money through his cash register to see if he can guess the right solution to repairing your car and fail at his option not to mention your expense.

Is there fine print on the repair order that holds him harmless for this type of repair? Does he state in writing that his work has a warranty and the limitations of that warranty? Your recourse may be the BBB or small claims court with or without an attorney's help.

There is no rule or law that I am aware of that gives this guy the latitude to rip you off like this. I would not stand for it. Communication with him should be docummented in writing from this point on with certified letters and copies to the Better Business Bureau and the Chamber Of Commerce if he is a member. I would record both personal visits and telephone conversations with time/date identifications and witnesses where possible. You see, you can be firm, maintain a business like attitude and win if you keep your cool.

I go crazy when this sort of abuse surfaces and I'm sorry for your continued frustration.
When you go back and re-read my original suggestion you'll see just how cautionary I was about funding repairs that you do not fully agree to be needed.

Ask the mechanic where it says on the repair order that you authorized him to devalue your car and install problems you did not have before he worked on your car?

Are you tough?

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello Roger,
Sorry it took so long to reply, I have been working alot of hours to get me another car. I finally did get my money back, I went to the mechanic's with my cell phone and told him that if I didn't get my money back that I would call the media and tell them what kind of mechanic he was and that people should steer clear of him, I also told him that I would contact BBB and my lawyer as well, I told him that I would not only sue him for my $300.00 but for suffering and he will have to pay for court cost and lawyer fee's as well. He was not very happy at that point and said he didn't owe me anything because he worked on the car regardless if it messed up again! So I started dialing on my cell phone. That woked becausse I had my money within the hour! Now I think I'm just going to sell it and hopefully try to get another car soon. My check engine light keep's flashing and it feel's like my car want's to shut off on me when i'm driving and when i'm at a stop light I will have my foot on the brake and the car feel's like it's trying to go, the brake sort of feel's like it's pushing my foot up. Also now before I close the door, I have to push this latch up to get it to close ( very embarrasing! ). I think the spring is broken. My window's won't go down, I can hear the motor when I try to make them go down, I think they may just be off track there. But the main thing is the electrical problem, If I can get that fixed I can deal with the rest of the problems. I am now working 12 hr. shift's 7 day's a week and need a dependable vehical. It look's good but it just has alot of mechanical issues. So I think the best thing for me to do is sell it and try to get another car. I would like to get a new one with a warranty or something that would last me a long time. This has tought me a big lesson and i'm thinking that I should take some kind of auto mechanics course or something. I just wanted to let you know that I appreciate all your help but I think it's time to let my car go, I don't want to but it look's like I really don't have a choice in this one. Wish me luck! Thank's again!
Teresa
P.s.
I sure wish you were here in Texas! I can really use really good honest mechanic!!

What a woman! I asked you if you were tough? Yes you are, I'm proud of your determination to get fair treatment.

I'm in the OKC,OK area. If you plan a trip this way send me a FAX to [redacted] and let me know. Today my FAX machine is out of ink and I have ordered the new cartridges.

I do hope you find an answer to your transportation needs very soon. Someone in your town is honest. Ask the Chamber of Commerce for a referral. Ask the instructor at a Vo-Tech school who they suggest? They know where their students go to work and often do follow-up in those locations to see how the graduate does in the real world.

Find a woman in a busy office administration job. Ask her who treats her car needs honestly? Ask a nurse. She may be driving something newer than your car, but she may have a daughter or friend who has car needs and she'll know who is honest. Any of these people will know how many times/trips it takes to the shop to get something fixed right. Like you, they depend on their car and want their monies' worth.

Don't be shy to ask a technician for referrences. He will pick his best customers to tell you about, but they will tell you how good he really is under pressure.

Are you ready to close this question? What else can I do for you?

Roger

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 Engine Making Noise When idling Always

When Im in park, reverse and in any drive, there is a repetitive thumping noise coming from the right side of the engine, I have my own theory about what is going on, but I want to make sure its right before i do anything. Its coming from the back right portion of the engine, Could it be an engine problem or is it a Transmission problem. The engine has been rebuilt, and the transmission as well. What is going on with my car

Hello, Are the bolts that connect the torque converter to the flywheel all there and are thay tight?

One would believe if the noise is present whether in gear or not it could be a cracked flywheel. Have you considered disconnecting the torque converter bolts from the flywheel to test run the engine by itself?

What is your theory?

Roger

Please, update the status of your question. I want to help.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 Engine   

When cruising down the road at any speed, the rpm's go way up, sometimes past 4,000, but the speed does not increase but you get slammed in your seat. When accelerating away from a traffic light the car's rpm's go way up past 4,000 but no acceleration. I have to back off the accelerator and try again. This happens every time I drive the car. It used to happen after 10 to 15 miles of driving. Now, it happens after just a few miles. I have had the car in the shop to solve the problem for over two years, but they always say it is alright. Just recently, they looked at the transmission and said it was ok. This problem now exists about 75% of the time. What is wrong and how can I get this fixed.

This sure sounds like transmission failure, common to these cars. Low fluid level or a plugged filter in the transmission can also cause slipping/ no engagement, so make sure the fluid level is okay and consider changine the filter if it is overdue. If the problem is not here, and there is no check engine light on (let me know if there is) you probably have a bad transmission.

Getting slamming in the seat? Does this happen after the rpm's go way up, perhaps the engine revs high then the transmission starts working and it slams you OR is the transmission downshifting when it kicks in (sort of launches you)?

The transmission was dropped down and checked. It was not the problem. They added a fluid they claim will make the gaskets swell. They were just guessing. And why would a transmission problem show up when cruising steadily at 65 mph. I've driven a rental with a ruined transmission. Once you get up to highway speed a transmission problem does not show.

If you lose pressure the problem can show up at any speed.

What about the slamming you in the seat, does this happen abruptly (as if the transmission is shifted from to neutral into gear while the engine is revved)?

The transmission has been thoroughly checked. It is not the problem. The engine revs to higher rpm's at highway speed or just accelerating. It can slam me in my seat and if I am not holding on tight to the steering wheel, I will loose my grip. The problem may not show up for 15 miles or it may show up in as little as 5 miles. That is the problem. Everytime someone has test driven it they say it runs great. It is the smoothest driving car they have driven.

If it is only an engine revving condtion, it needs to be checked for intermittetent vacuum leaks, especially at the large hose coming to the throttle body. Look for a loose connection or crack.

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 Ignition System   

For about a week when I got in my car and turn the key, It would take about one second for it to come on. I'm not talking about it turning over and turning over, I would turn the key and a second later the engine would fire right up with no problem. At the end It took about two seconds every time I tried to start it, now when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump and my dash board lights up but thats It. No turning and turning,No click click from a dead battery(had battery checked 14v strong),and its not the starter. It seems to be electrical not mechanical, so what do you think?

Sounds like a bad ignition relay. You should be able to consult your owner's manual to find out where it is.

Im pretty good at fixing things, Is this somthing I can do at home?

One more thing where is the Ignition relay located

It wasnt in the owner guide

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 Brake System   

V3.8 160K After engine warms up, and especially when driving downhill under 60, normal braking violently shakes steering wheel. This is a daily driver, braking has been getting worse for years. Have replaced calipers, rotors, pads, have had front linkage checked every inspection without finding the cause. Braking shakes so bad it's almost causing an accident. Car otherwise runs and rides fine at all speeds. Thinking of replacing master cylinder and booster (myself) - your thoughts welcome about them being the cause. Thanks!! - Bob Everly

Braking while engine/car is cold produces no noticable vibration. This problem increases in summer and diminishes (disappears?) in the winter.

Thanks much.

Hello, No the master cylinder and booster are not the source/cause of the vibration.

Something isn't right....how old are the rotors? Have the ball joints been checked? Have you checked the wheel bearings preload adjustment? What is the tire pressure?

Roger

1988 Mercury Cougar XR7 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Speedometer, gauges and ac all stopped working. No idea what caused it

did this happen at the same time?

Yes all at the same time

Could it be an alternator problem? I am totally confused, did not think these items could all be tied together

turn signals are out too

This would not be an alternator connected problem as all of these will still work without the alternator being involved that is unless it is a bad ground on your car.
I would say if you have not looked at the fuses , that is where you would want to stop
this is a common symtom to a bad fuse.
Probably a main fuse which will be located under the hood in the auxillary fuse box where the relays are located there are lage fuses there 30 amp and bigger
Do not neglect to check the smaller fuses under the dashboard also to be sure they are no overlooked.
if you do the check properly I am sure you will find a blown fuse.

I have checked all of the fuses under the dash and they are all good. I replaced 2 that were related to the areas in question for safe measure. Where would I find the fuses under the hood? Are they fusible links or actual fuses?

1 15A Lt. Blue Stop Lamps, Hazard Warning Lamps, Speed Control, Cornering Lamp Relays
2 6A - CB - Windshield Wiper/Washer Pump
3 Spare - Not Used
4 15A Lt. Blue Taillamps, Parking Lamps, Side Marker Lamps, Instrument Cluster Illumination, License Lamps, A/C and Heater Illumination, Radio Illumination, Digital Clock Illumination, Autolamp Relay
5 15A Lt. Blue Turn Signal Lamps, Electronic Day/Night Mirror, Lighted Vanity Mirrors *, Backup Lamps, Illuminated Entry, Keyless Entry, Cornering Lamps
6 20A Yellow Rear Defrost Timer, Chime, Back-Up Lamps, Cornering Lamps, Rear Reading Lamps, Trunklid Release, Digital Clock Display, Illuminated Entry, Anti-Theft Module, Turbo Buzzer
7 15A Lt. Blue Fog Lamps (Turbo Only)
8 15A Lt. Blue Courtesy Lamps, Key Warning Buzzer, Illuminated Entry Module, Glove Box Lamp, Door Lock Relays, Radio Memory, Cluster Memory, Outside Mirrors, Tripminder Module, Analog Clock, Anti-Theft Relay
9 30A Lt. Green A/C Heater Blower Motor
10 20A - CB - Horn, Cigar Lighter, Fuel Filler Door, Flash-to-Pass, Speed Control
11 20A Yellow Radio, Tape Player, Premium Sound Amp, Power Antenna, Graphic Equalizer
12 20A - CB - Power Seats, Power Locks, Keyless Entry
13 5A Tan Instrument Cluster Illumination, Radio, Climate Control
14 20A - CB - Power Windows, Power Moonroof
15 10A Red Taillamps, Rear Side Markers, License Lamps, Electoluminescent Coach Lamps
16 4A Yellow Electronic ATC
17 15A Lt. Blue Electronic Cluster, Tripminder Display, Fuel Gauge (non-electronic cluster), A/C Clutch, Speed Control Module, Graphic Warning Display Module, Electronic Blower Speed Controller
18 10A Red Warning Indicator Lamps, Autolamp System, Throttle Position Sensor, Low Fuel Module, Dual Timer Chime, Tachometer, Washer Fluid Level Indicator
CB = Circuit Breaker
*NOTE: The lighted vanity mirrors also use a 2A fuse in each visor assembly.
Circuit Breakers
Circuit breakers are the silver shiny boxes found in the fuse panel. Circuit breakers are used on high power drain circuits on which one wouldn't necessarily want to have a fuse. When a circuit overload exceeds the rated current amperage, they will trip open. Some circuit breakers are the cycling type, in which the power will come back through the breaker after a certain amount of time. However, the circuit breaker will continue to open and close until the problem is fixed. These are used on the headlamps and the windshield wipers. With the non-cycling type, the circuit breaker will stay tripped open until the problem is resolved; these are used on the power windows and power door locks. The following chart lists circuit breakers.
Circuit Circuit Protection Rating Location
Windshield Wiper/Washer 6A Fuse Panel (position 2)
Headlights, High Beam Indicator 22A Part of Headlight Switch (requires new switch)
Power Door Locks, Power Seats 20A Fuse Panel (position 12)
Power Windows 20A Fuse Panel (position 14)
Horn, Lighter, Flash-to-Pass 20A Fuse Panel (position 10)
Fusible Links
These are circuit protection devices incorporated into the wiring harness for some select electrical equipment. Just like fuses, these will blow open when the circuit load exceeds the amperage rating. If one of these should happen to trip, you can buy new ones at your local parts store or through the Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer.
The following chart lists fusible links.
Circuit Circuit Protection Rating Location
Lamp Feed 16 GA Near Starter Solenoid
Ignition Feed 16 GA Near Starter Solenoid
Charging Circuit 14 GA Near Starter Solenoid
Heated Backlite(Rear Defroster) 16 GA Near Starter Solenoid
Engine Compartment Lamp 20 GA Near Pass. Side Strut Tower
Some common colors for fusible links, and their corresponding gauge wires:
12 Gauge - Grey
14 Gauge - Dark Green
16 Gauge - Black
18 Gauge - Brown

The fusable links are almost always located under the hood in diferent locations
If you have good fuses and fusable link then I would say there is a grounding problem and you can start to diagnose it by eaching the wirining harness under the dash and attemt to move the wires back and forth shaking vigurously an you may by chance break the short.
hopefully you can get some power back to on of the componets and pinpoint a problem area

Thank you for your reply! all fuses have been replaced. Took car to have battery and alternator tested. Battery new and ok but alternator showing no voltage. Removed alternator and had tested. All tests passed. cleaned all contacts and reinstalled. Still no charge. Any suggestions? Could this cause other problems too?

yes check for a problem with the engine ground to the chassis and the motor housing
you may have a bad cable

Did you check for 12 volts power to both sides the in and out of the fuses on all of the fuses, while the car is in the running position?
are there any without power on the side before the fuses?

1969 Mercury Cougar XR7 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I PURCHASED A 1969 COUGAR TO RESTORE, IT LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE ALREADY STARTED CHANGING THINGS BUT NEVER FINISHED ANYTHING. WHEN YOU TURN THE IGNITION KEY TO THE ON POSITION THE ENGINE STARTS CRANKING BEFORE YOU EVEN GET THE KEY TO THE START POSITION. IT WILL CRANK THE MOTOR FOR AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE KEY IN THE ON POSITION. I HAVE ALREADY CHANGED THE IGNITION SWITCH OUT WITH A NEW ONE AND STILL DOES THE SAME THING.

Hello, Isn't there a remote starter solenoid under the hood? It may be defective and stuck in the energized position.

A remote starter solenoid usually mounts on a fender inner-wall and the positive battery cable will run directly to it and connect to one side of the larger copper posts. Another battery cable connects to the other large copper post and from there runs to the starter.

There will be a smaller wire connected from the ignition switch to the "S" terminal of the solenoid. This wire only has power when the ignition switch is in the start position to energize the solenoid and send power from the battery to the starter motor.

If there is power on the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid "S" terminal when the ignition in NOT in the start position there is a short to voltage.

If there is no power on the wire to the "S" terminal but the starter cranks the solenoid is wired wrong or stuck in the energized mode. Replace the solenoid.

Roger

I ALSO REPLACED THE STARTER RELAY ON THE FENDER AND STILL NO CHANGE. WOULD THE SHORT BE IN THE HARNESS UNDER THE DASH OR THE HARNESS UNDER THE HOOD. IS THERE A WAY TO KNOW FOR SURE.

Have you tested the wire that plugs onto the "S" terminal (disconnected from the solenoid) for voltage when the key is in the run position? What did you find?

Hard to say where the short could be. No way to tell for sure if under the hood or inside the car.

Roger

Has this car been fixed? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger