Mercury Grand Marquis

2007 Mercury Grand Marquis Ignition System   

My 2000 Grand Marguis stalled on the freeway and would not start back up. It cranks and sounds like it might start but doesn't. I replaced the air filter and fuel filter. The fuel filter was clogged, but changing these two parts did not change the situation. I barrowed an OBD II PocketScan Code Reader, but it returned no codes - literally, it said no codes. Before I move onto the next step - replacing the fuel pump - I thought I would ask for other opinions.

Hello, Please test the fuel pressure and advise the reading. What size engine is in your car please?

You should have 30 - 45psi.

Roger

I will have to go out and get a fuel pressure gauge. How long do I have available to respond to your inquiry?

Take all of the time you need. Thia is not a live chat. I will help you.

Roger

I barrowed a fuel pressure guage but can't figure out where to test the pressure. Two possible ports: One has a tag that says "Evap Service Port 1 PSI Maximum Regulated Pressure Only", and the second is part of a line that goes to the radiator. I thought this second one would be part of the transmission fluid system. Neither port fits the pressure guage, but the fist is much closer than the second.

Your car has fuel injection. On the steel fuel rail that supplies fuel to the injectors there should be a valve with a removable cap to connect the guage to. The fuel rail mounts on top of the intake manifold. Does the air inlet tube block your view?

Neither of the two valves you mention are the correct connecting point for the fuel guage.

Any help?

Roger

OK, From your description, I think I found the right valve. Now I need an adaptor because it is much smaller than the guage fitting. I need to call my friend to see if he has an adaptor. Thanks for your help.

All right. No hurry.

Roger

The fuel pressure measures at 39 to 40 on the meter. This would seem it indicate that it is not the fuel pump. Am I correct? What should I check next?

There is reason to believe with the pressure reading you have the fuel pump is still a good one.

Next would be to check for spark. Have you done this? You said it would try to start but does not. If it tries to start one might assume there is spark. But there are two coil paks right? Check for spark from each coil. What did you find?

Roger

Sorry for the delay, but I had another emergency come up. I did test for spark and was uncertain of the result. The wire to the spark plugs are different from what I am used to from the older cars I have owned and worked on. We inserted a wire into the connection so we could reach metal on the engine. We got one spark one time of about 4 attampts. The battery has been losing charge a little each day. I'm wondering of this is an important clue. I have hooked up a battery charger.

Are you disconnecting the wire from the spark plug or from a coil? If you check for spark on a coil connection of a plug wire you need to hold the disconnected wire within 1/4 inch of the coil tower it belongs on. Use an insulated tool to hold the wire while someone else cranks the engine for you. A bright spark should jump the gap from the coil tower to the plug wire end.

Roger

I thought I was testing a spark plug wire, maybe I was mistaken. I will need to wait until tomorroe to check it

Be careful. Ignition spark is over 50,000 volts. An insulated tool to hold the wire just above the coil tower will guard against getting shocked.

Roger

No spark from the spark plug wire. I found in the manual which fuse to check. It was blown and I replaced it. Still no spark. An aquaintance who is mechanically inclined suggested I remove the crankshaft position censor and to check it at a store against one at the store. Is this an appropriate next steP? Thanks

Did you check for spark from both coils? Did the fuse you found blown remain good?

Call a parts store and see if they can check a crankshaft sensor to see if it is a good one. If a test is not available then yes, I think replacing the crankshaft sensor would be a reasonable next step.

Roger

No, I only check spark from one spark plug from one side. I will check the other side on Sunday. And I will can in the morning also.

I'll try to check in for your findings.

Roger

The store was not able to test the crankshaft sensor, so I just replaced it. I thought it might have be the problem as the car almost turned over but it did not. What is the next step?

Its time to test for spark again from both coils. You said prior to replacing the crank sensor you had no spark.

Today you report that it almost turned over. That information raises hopes that there is spark so verifying spark from both coils would be next.

Roger

I have spark on both sides, but the car still won't turn over. Initially it sounds as if it might but doesn't. There is also a loud pop like a backfire that sounds like it comes from the engine as it tries to turn over. After that, it may start to get close but not quite the same as the initial try.

If I need to look at another component, please try to describe where to find the part. The manual has given some instruction, but I have trouble finding where it the parts are. No diagrams and the pictures are often different than my engine.

Let's try something off the radar. I want to know if this engine can breathe. And I have real concerns now about the length of time the engine has been cranking trying to get it to start.... is building up raw fuel in the exhaust at the catalytic converter.

Please remove an oxygen sensor that is in the exhaust header pipe that runs from one of the exhaust manifolds to the catalytic converter. Either side will work. An oxygen sensor is a device that has a short wiring pig tail coming out of the top of it. The sensor screws into the exhaust header pipe. It remotely resembles a spark plug.

With the sensor removed there is now a place where exhaust can escape without having to go through the catalytic converter. If this opening allows the engine to start (it will be noisey) we can believe there is a restriction in the exhaust that is preventing the engine to breathe.

Will you try this please?

Roger

I will give it a try

Is it possible this car has 2 catalytic converters? It appears that there are 2 and the exhaust pipe joins after them before joining with the muffler.

Yes, there are two. Only one oxygen sensor before one of the converters need be removed for the test I have in mind. If the sensors before each converter are accessable remove one or both as you choose.

Roger

Are there 2 sensors on each size? I removed one sensor right before what I thoufht was the catalytic converter. I tried to start the car with no difference. I noticed a second sensor closer to the engine before a turn in the exhaust pipe. I removed that one on the same side as before and tried again. This time, the engine alomost started up but would not sustain. The back firing was worse too and I could see the air intake from jump when it back fired.

Try cranking the engine with the throttle closed. If it starts let it idle in hopes it will clear out unburned fuel.

If the spark plugs are badly fuel fouled they should be removed and cleaned. A can of brake cleaner or carb and choke cleaner would work well.

Roger

If I understand you correctly, I should not press on the gas when starting the car, correct?

Correct. A fuel injected car is always best started without pressing the accelerator at all except in very cold weather.

Roger

Yea! It turned over and idled for several minutes. It didn't take hardly any cranking to start up and no back firing. It did idle rough, however. Could this be becuase both sides are clogged and only one was relieved? I feel we made some good progress. Thank-you.

The engine will need to run at idle for a while before things begin to clear up. Removing the oxygen sensor from the other side would improve the running of the engine but you may choose to pass on the extra work.

Your car has an exhaust restriction and it may be one or both catalytic converters need replaced. The engine can't breathe.

I recommend a good reliable muffler shop check your cars exhaust for needs. The car should be towed to the shop.

Anything else?

Roger

Not tonight, it's dark here. I will need to call for tomorrow. Would there be any benefit at this point to allow it to idle longer? Will that problem clear up if the catalytic converters are replaced?

Once the exhaust restriction is cleared the engine will start, smoke out the tailpipe, run rough. Let it warm up and then drive it easy as the cylinders burn off the results of the excess fuel. It will clear up but might take 10 - 15 miles before it seems right.

Idling the engine now for a longer period of time will not reward you much. That hole the O2 sensor goes in is just not enough relief for the desired result.

Roger

Hello again,

Please update your question status. Do you need help?

If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up.

Thanks,

Roger

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

2005 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Started driving this morning and headlights worked. About an hour down the road, I stopped the car and when I restarted, the headlights didn't come on. The switch was on auto, and I switched to manual, but it didn't help. I toggled between auto and manual, thinking the switch had something wrong and ended up leaving it on auto. I put on my flashers and proceeded down the road. About 1/2 mile down the road the lights came on. What could be wrong?

Were the headlights the only lights effected when this happened, or did all of the external lights fail to come on?

If all lights were effected I'm thinking the photocell would be suspect.

If only the headlights were effected I'm thinking there is a poor connection (possibly at the headlamp switch) or the circuit breker in the headlamp switch detected too many amps were drawn on the circuit so it tripped. If the circuit breaker did trip it would automatically reset after it cooled down.

Does the problem continue or was this a one time thing?

Roger

It was only the headlights, nothing else. And yes, this is the first time it has happened.

If only the headights were effected and only a one time thing (and not since) it is very speculative to make a suggestion as to what happened or what part to suggest to replace. A best guess is not good business.

If you have the time to look at the connections for the headlight switch and for the headlight dimmer switch you just might see evidence of heat discoloring or deformining the terminal contact in the connector. That's where I would look if I were there...knowing full well I may not see anything I could identify as the cause.

Should you find the condition can be duplicated then diagnosis and repair will be focused and minimize cost.

You may have to keep in mind when driving the car that this could reoccur without notice...if during the inspection of connections nothing was found.

Headlamp switch circuit breakers (when tripped) self reset quickly so the driver can have light to make a safe stop. Lights on....briefly off...right back on, cycling over and over. This would indicate a short circuit. I don't think your car has a short.

But, a poor connection can heat up and cause resistance enough to render a circuit defeated while no other consequence ( fuse or circuit breaker failure) is noted.

Does your car auto-release the Park Brake when you select a forward gear? If so be sure there are no wires being chafed by the brake pedal mechanism when it moves up or down.

Roger

2002 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine   

I am getting a code 401 when I read the codes with a scanner. The eng. light comes back on after two cycles. I have replace the EGR and the Vac. Regular. I still have the problem. All vac. hoses look ok. I have the vac hoses special order from Ford, and will change them when they come in.Is there anything else that could cause this problem.

Still have not heard anything.

FVT

Hello, What is your email address please? I'll send you a Technical Service Bulletin for your review on code P0401 with MIL Light ON. (Check Engine Light)

Roger

IT is [redacted]

Could this be still covered under a REcall?

The info I have is a Technical Service Bulletin....not a recall. I can check for recalls and will advise.

Roger

Have not seem it yet. Did you get the E-mail address ok?

OK, I still would like to have the service Bul.also. Thanks

I sent via email the TSB. Have you replaced the DPFE?

If not, I recommend replacing that part far in advance of any vacuum lines.

Roger

Where is the DPFE sensor located? I do not see anything that looks like the picture.

Locate the EGR and follow the vacuum tube back to the DPFE. It shouldn't be very far from the EGR at all.

Roger

No not yet. I have only replaced the EGR and the Vac. Reg.

I vote that a new DPFE will fix the problem.

Roger

The vac tube goes from the EGR to the Vac reg ( as ford calls it). From the vac reg it splits off and goes to the Fuel tank storage reg. The input to the vac reg goes to the Man-fold out put or main vac source. By the way this is the first time anyone has been under the hood except for oil changes.I bought this car new.

ok, I will pick one up. Hopefully the parts guy will show where it is located.

Verify the part number on your parts receipt for the Vac Regulator you replaced and compare it to the TSB info.

Your dealer should help you locate the DPFE and advise any differences to your previous purchase.

Roger

Roger

ok, thanks. i bought it today and the dealer gave me the location. it is on the under side of the EGR valve. Thanks again.

Frank Tarrance

Would you prefer to leave the question open while you give the new part a chance to prove it fixes the problem?

Roger

na, I relaced it last night. So far so good.I really believe that was it as I drove it several times and no eng light or missing.Thanks again.

Frank Tarrance

By the way no wonder I could not find the senser,it was just plugged on to two pipes coming up behind the eng. next to the fire wall with two rubber hoses. No mounting.

One never knows what you may find when others have been there before you.

On occassion when electrical ground doesn't require mounting a sensor may be free standing. That may have been the case on this one.

I'm glad for your persistance and sucess. Good job Frank.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question.

Thank you!

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

All good. That fixed it. Thanks again

Please close the question so that All Parts will pay me. I cannot close a question or be paid until the customer accepts my answer.

Thank you!

Roger

I have check ok several times to say the question has been answered and closed.

Frank Tarrance

Thank you Frank. I'll contact All Parts and they will take care of it.

Sorry for the confusion.

Roger

2001 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel System   

My car will sometimes not stay running. I have brought it to a couple of mechanics. They have replaced the EGR valve and cleaned the intake on the EGR. They seem to think it's EGR related. The check engine light goes on and then after a while goes out. It will drive ok for months and then this problem will start happening again. You start it up, it wont stay running unless you give it some gas. As soon as you take your foot off the gas, it dies. If you drive it for about a half hour, the problem straightens itself out. No one has been able to fix this problem.

First of all if the problem is intermittent , then it will be a little more differcult to diagnose.
You have been to mechanics have they scanned the computer fro stored codes?
with your system the OBD2 will detect a problem componet and store the info in the computer as a problem that occurred even if the problem fixed itself
You can always retrieve a stored code.
You can go to a reputable auto-parts store and they will acually put a scan on your car free of charge and tell you what problems are detected.
That is the best thing to do first of all.

Unless you replace different parts and give them enough time to malfunction, that is still hit and miss and could be expensive along with being time consuming.

The next best thing for you to do is purchase a code scanner for your car and keep it handy, then while your car is in the unstable condition that is the ntime to scan and do a code diagnostic.
I hope this helps

Thanks very much. They have done the code scans and at some point, it was saying that the egr valve had insufficient flow. times, the check engine light has gone on and off, and no code has been stored in the computer. It's really a perplexing problem. I'll try what you suggested and see what happens. Thanks.

Ok sounds good

1999 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Dash lights (speedometer etc. only) not working, as well as the rear running lights. Head lights, brake lights, radio, clock etc. all fine. I could not determine which fuse runs the instrument panel etc.

when you pull off the cover of your fuse panel there will be a diagram of the
fuses by number if that diagram is missing you should test each fuse for hot when the car is in the run position they should all be hot and see if there is a bad fuse
look for the instrument cluster light fuse first

1999 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the inside lights and the keypad lights come on and go off at different intervals after the engine has been shut off. They do it often enough over a period of 24 hours that it is draining the battery.

you would want to look at the chasis control module or [body control module]
as a culprit
It would be wise to have the car checked for any stored codes, maybe something has been detected

is this located in the trunk behind the back seat and can we check it ourselves or does it have to be taken to a dealer

it is located on the left side inside the dash board
you can go to A reputable autoparts store and have a free test done , where they attach a car scanner and check to see if your computer has detected a problem
it will normally record such a problem as a bad module

1998 Mercury Grand Marquis Drive Train / Driveline   

1998 Mercury Grand Marquis, 67,000 original miles. When warmed up, feels/sounds as if rear wheels are on rough pavement. Duration of vibration/shudder is only a second or two, then car drives normally. Shudder occurs most often at 35-40 mph, sometimes at 55-65. Frequency of shudder is increasing, as often as every 3-5 minutes.

Hi, Are the tire treads cupped?

Might have a look at the u-joints and the driveshaft yoke splines that slide on the transmission output shaft for lube.

Have you checked the differential fluid level? Is this differential a posi-traction or limited slip option?

Are the wheels clean and free of dried mud?

Roger

Have the rear axle bearings checked.I have replaced many rear axle bearings on these models and have also replaced rear axle shafts on these models as well.

1997 Mercury Grand Marquis Ignition System Won't Start When starting When cold

My 4.6 ltr mercury has a problem with cold starts Thought it was the fuel pump replaced it. I had the same problem 2 days later I had a mechanic do diagnostic showed nothing wrong. He told me it my be the idol air control motor I replaced it guess what still will not start when cold. This problem is sporiatic. I did not start my car for about 30 hours this time. This is getting expensive with no fix please help me.

Dean Pickett

Hello, Have you seen the coolant temp sensor(CTS) value when the engine is cold? Is it accurate?

The computer monitors coolant temp to determine how much fuel is needed to start a cold engine. If the mixture is too lean for a cold start the computer may be "seeing" a warm engine value from the CTS and the result is an unhappy driver. A cold CTS value read by the computer on a warm engine means flooding, black soot on the spark plugs and smoke out the exhaust.

Do you have access to a OBD II Scanner for troubleshooting sensor range specifications?

Still thinking,

Roger

no black smoke flooding no problem. Also when I charge or jump the battery it seems to help is there a possible electrical problem?

Could be electrical if battery is weak or starter draws too many amps to operate properly.

Most national auto parts chain stores will test battery, starter, and alternator for free. Give them a call and see if we can rule this out.

I'm clear on the car is not flooding out. I wanted to share with you the opposite ends of a wrong CTS value read by a computer and the expected result.

Roger

1997 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems  When driving Always

Running tail lights out. Brake lights come on and turn signals work. Just no running tail lights.

dO A CHECK ON YOUR FUSES TO SEE IF THERE IS ONE BLOWN
IF YOU HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS BEFORE
i WOULD ALSO CHECK THE INDIVIDUAL BULBS ON THE TAIL LIGHTS TO SEE IF ONE MAY BE SHORTED OUT
SWAP EACH ONE WITH A KNOWN WORKING BULB
AND SEE IF THERE ARE DIFFERENT RESULTS
hOPE THIS HELPS

What did you find when checking fuses and bulbs??

Did you mean to release the question so that other mechanics could respond?

Roger

How are you doing on this one please?

Roger

1996 Mercury Grand Marquis Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

The climet control panel does not light up. I have checked all the fuses and replaced the control panel.

Hello, Have you verified that power gets to the control panel connector terminals? Does the ground connection for the control test good? Is the entire Climate Control Panel inop i.e., panel lights and the digital display as well?

I can get to the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base tomorrow for schematic info if you want it.

How would you like to begin?,

Roger

Hi, I have some info to FAX to you, do you have a number?

Please advise how I may assist you,

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

the panel lights up except for the digital display. I also noticed that the brake light is also lit.

Thank you for the reply, do you have a FAX number?

Is it the brake warning light on the dash instruement panel that is on? Is the brake master cylinder fluid level low?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, how are you doing with this car, please?

Roger

Hi, I'm checking in with you. Any news here?

Thanks,

Roger

I'm hoping for an update from you on your question's status.

Please advise,

Roger

1996 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine Malfunction When idling When cold

At times mainly cold start. The v8 engine will start and immed die. doesn't seem to want to idle. Pump acelerator hard, get her started, MAY die within next block at stop sign. Pump her up again and race engine a little and MOST of the time away we go. What is that? thanks much.

Check the TPS sensor.This controls the throttle position on start up and while driving maintains even distribution.It wouldnt hurt to check the MAF sensor along with your air filter.The two sensors kind of work in unison.The MAF determines air flow so the TPS knows how to adjust.You may also want to try and put a good injetor cleaning type additive in your fuel the next time you fill up.An eletronic engine scan would most likely pinpoint the problem.Check with some of your local parts houses.I know of a few that offer this service for free or at a nominal cost.
Good Luck,
Paul

1995 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems  When braking No pattern

i just bought the car from an elderly couple 2 weeks ago. the car runs fine.it has 66500 mls. i had the alternator+battery replaced yesterday.when i hit he brakes coming to a stop the alter.gauge fluxuates.its not discharging when i drive normally .i had the elec. system checked. they said it was ok.is this normal.

Hello, Who replaced the battery and alternator...a technician? Why was this necessary? What engine size, please?

No, I don't think what you described is a normal result of just applying the brakes. Sure, the brake lights will come on but unless the battery is in a low state of charge or has poor connections I would not expect a gauge fluxuation.

Is the battery big enough for the car? What is the cold cranking amp rating? (CCA) Is the alternator a factory rebuilt? What is the max output rating of this alternator?

Please advise,

Roger

the alternator is a bosch reman. the battery is 825 cca. the old battery was 6 yrs old the alternater. was getting hot.the mechanic i always use in stalled it. i had the serp. belt replaced also.i didnt know if the gauge was suppose to move when hitting the brakes.never had a car with a gauge before. its ok while im driving

its a 4.6

A momentary movement of a gauge needle is normal as it should be sensitive enough to show a change in the current demand on the electrical system. The voltage regulator will adjust the voltage demanded immediately so you get a visual of the load (the brake lights, wipers, change in blower speed...whatever) change on the system followed by the recovery accomplished by the voltage regulator. One exception is a drop in the reading that pretty much stays evident happens when you turn on a rear window defogger at engine idle speed. That's a 30 amp load and about the only demand that is that large and driver initiated.

Such needle fluxuations are amplified at slower engine speeds, especially at idle when the alternator is spinning slower. So long as the needle is not acting like wagging your finger I'd relax. Be aware that at idle with a heavy electrical load demanded and you activate the turn signals, the needle will "pulse" with the signals. That is normal.

An alternator that gets physically hot is the result of answering a heavy charging load demand. The correct test is to load test it's ability to output it's max rating without a drop in voltage output. It's the amps we care about here. If it passes this test there is no reason to condemn it due to a hot physical touch.

You should be fine if this info matches your car's symptom.

Your thoughts?

Roger

its a 130 amp alternator

My last post still applies to a 130 amp rated alternator.

Thanks,

Roger

What have you decided, please? I'm just waiting to hear what your thoughts are?

Roger

ill drive it today and see what happens .ill take it to ford and have the do a load test on it thanks

Consider having a national auto parts chain store testing the alternator for you. They will do it for free in most cases. Nothing wrong with getting it done for free. Ford will charge you money you could use for other things. I want to save you money any way I can.

The man that installed the alternator should have a tester like a VAT-40 or equivalent and he should test/retest it for free also. How else could he stand behind it?

Regards,

Roger

i just took my wife to work this morn. i think the idle has to be adjusted its idling to low. i got to see how har it is to install a tps

TPS refers of course to the Throttle Position Sensor. This sensor tells the computer where the throttle is.

Turn the engine off:

The Idle Speed Control Motor (ISC) may be sticking and need cleaning. It is on the side of the throttle body and held on by screws. It has a cylindrical shape and can be removed so the bore on the throttle body can be cleaned. (where the valve mounts) Carb/Choke Cleaner or Brake Cleen does the trick just by spraying. Wear eye protection to guard against chemicals getting in your face.

Also, you can remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body to expose the butterfly valve and throttle bore for inlet air. This valve and the bore can get coked up with old fuel deposits and cause sticking at closed throttle. Same deal here, watch your eyes, spray into the bore especially where the valve touches the bore when closed. Use an acid core brush or a rag to get it clean with the chemical. You may wish to prop the throttle wide open while you clean this area.

Upon restart, the engine will be stubborn to start and the exhaust fumes heavy so be sure you are in a well ventalated area. No children or pets should be around. No one standing behind the car. Once the engine clears out the residual chemical it will run smooth again.

Now you can see if there is a TPS issue to address. Cleaning the afore mentioned will clear up an idle speed problem in many cases.

Roger

1994 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade  

I recently purchased a keyless remote control. In order to program it, the instructions say to "momentarily jump pins in programming connector located behind the glove box." I can't find a connector. What does the connector look like and how exactly do I "jump" the pins? Thank you for your time and attention. greg

Hello,I'm headed into town to the library where I can access The Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base. I'll see what I can find.

When you locate the connector you'll find the terminals to be female. Jumping the connector means to loop a wire in the shape of a horse shoe and put the ends of the wire one end to each of the wire terminals. This new wire serves to complete the circuit of one of the connector wires to the other in the same connector, thus "jumping the pins" (terminals).

Fused 18 gauge auto wire is recommended. I've seen it done with just a paper clip.

Roger

Hi Roger,

Thank you for your willingness to help me, and thanks also for the "pin jumping" details. I looked once again behind the glove compartment as per Ford's instructions. There are several wire harnesses and several multipin connectors, but I found no open two-pin female-type connectors.

Am I supposed to disconnect something? If so, what? Thanks in advance if you can help me further.

Sincerely,

Greg Radtke

Hey Greg, Do you have a FAX number? Would I need a cover sheet for the FAX?

Roger

Ok, Ok...I can type. try the following:

REMOTE TRANSMITTER: Programming.

To program (or re-program) transmitter(s) into the remote/keyless entry module, perform the following steps:


1. Turn ignition switch to ON or ON/ACCESSORY position and momentarily short (jumper) the two terminals of the program connector (J4) together. All doors should lock then unlock. Remove the shorting terminal.


NOTE: The program connector is a 2-pin connector taped to the wire assembly. It is located to the right of the glove box, behind the far right side of the instrument panel. The color code for the J4 Connector is one WHT/YELLOW and one GRY/YELLOW wire.

2. Press any button on the remote transmitter. All doors should lock then unlock, to verify that the transmitter has been programmed.
3. NOTE: If door locks do not respond, press button again (up to three times maximum with the same transmitter). If door locks still fail to respond, go to symptom tests for diagnostics.

Go to step 2 to program additional transmitters into the control module (up to four transmitter maximum).

4. Turn ignition switch OFF. All doors should lock then unlock. Verify proper operation.

NOTE: The remote/keyless entry module erases ALL previous transmitters from memory when the transmitters are programmed or re-programmed. The remote/keyless entry module can store up to four transmitters in memory. If you are programming/reprogramming more than one transmitter you must program all of them before you turn OFF the ignition switch in step 4 or you will have to repeat the process starting from step 1.

Questions?,

Roger

Thank you, Roger! I'll give the programming another shot. I'm about to give up.

I submitted payment via the All-Parts web site as per your assistance. I hope it reaches you.

Greg

1994 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine   

1994 Grand Marquis 4.6L runs VERY poorly when cold and just started but within several minutes its like a switch is switched it suddenly runs well.

There are three temp sensors, one for the rad fan, one for the light or guage, and the last sends a signal to the computer ecu. The old cars had a choke, which essentially richened the air/fuel mixture to enable the car to warm up.Newer EFI controlled cars have no carbs or choke so they have a temp sensor to tell the ecu that the coolant and engine is cold.The ecu then sends an appropriate signal to the fuel injector.
Relatively simple and cheap to replace, even at a garage.If you decide to do yourself, purchase the new one first.This will help to identify the one on your intake manifold.As the sensor is immersed in coolant, have the replacement in hand when old one comes out, to minimize coolany loss.Or first drain about a gallon of coolant at the rad petcock, I prefer the first method.Either way, do it when the engine is cold.
I hope this all makes sense...
Bruce

Sounds very reasonable for my problem. I will get a new sensor and install it myself. The local Merc dealer can get me one today for $18.06.
Thanks,
Mike J

Without a lot of diagnostic equip, that is your best option.
Bruce

1994 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems   

after running awhile my head lights go off and on. I have taken it into the shop and they can't find anything. I have turned off the automatic switch and used the manual switch to come on and it will come on for awhile and then the lights will go off and sometimes come back on. Is it the switch and pigtail that is no good or is there a relay that is bad. Once in awhile I will hear under the dash a buzzing kind of sound -- is there a short?

Depending on how long the lights stay off, do they blink? or are they on for a few minutes and off for a few?
When the lights go off you will need to test for the interrupted circuit.
Check for power at the headlight itself to see if the power is present.
Then from the switch and then at the relay
Once you can establish where it is disconnecting power it can be isolated more efficiently.
As for the buzzing sound you will need to fell under the dashboard and find out which module is buzzing before making a determination

1992 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Parking lights, Dash Lights not working. Fuse is not blown

The headlight switch is the most likely cause.
If you want a schematic to perform in depth testing visit autozone.com and register your car (Make, Model, Year, etc). Then click on Vehicle Repair Guides, then Diagrams.

Your first check with a voltmeter should be connected to the battery positive post and the ground wire to anyone of the parking lights. If you have 12 volts (battery voltage) you have confirmed the ground is okay. At this point inspect the connector to the switch for corrosion. You can test the switch with an ohm meter. Your local autparts strore may test the switch (off the car) for you. Call ahead (autozone, advance auto, pep boys, carquest, napa, etc)

1992 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

The Radio has locled up but you can still barely hear the cd player. The antenna will not go up or down anymore, and the air conditioner will not get cold.

hello sir
it seems to me that you have two problems
the radio would be seperate from the AC
the first thing to do is change out the radio or get it repaired the radio problem is radio internal specific that includes the
antenna
the AC needs to be charged by a prfessional
according to the new freon laws

Is there any thing that would help withe electrical dash radio, and some other digital readings like disconnecting the battery, replacing fuses, ????

no the radio is probly history if you change it that will solve the radio problems

1992 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine   

While driving engine will lose power, shudder, and act like it is going to shut off. In attempting to bring car to a stop, I noticed that power to the brake system was gone, leaving me with manual brakes. Once car is stopped engine will idle but, will run ruff if I push on accelerator. Turn car off. Wait a few minutes. Start car and all is well till the next time. Problem is intermintant. I can drive a day or a week before it happens again.

Hi, Are you seeing the check engine light come on while the engine is running?

I recommend testing the fuel pressure. It would be great if the fuel pressure were monitored during the time the condition is present.

Roger

No check engine lights have ever come on. Independant Mechanics have checked the car out and so has Linciln Mercury. All say they can find nothing wrong. Could it be the TPS?

The TPS can be tested for voltage sweep to see if there are dead spots. It would cause hesitation on acceleration. Not running rough.

Has any mechanic experienced this car's problem? If not, they cannot do better than guess what could be wrong.

Roger

That's just it. It never acts up when it is in a mechanics hands. What would be the common areas I could check out?

just checked with the owner of the car. She has corrected me. Everything I related to you fits except for the part about running rough. Sorry for the mis-information.

The owner is my mother. I am aquiring the car from her and am trying to get a head start on troubleshooting.

Duplicating the complaint is paramount to mapping a repair path. So long as the engine runs all right it will pass every test.

Right now we don't know if the trouble is caused by fuel or ignition. However, since the engine really doesn't quit one could first consider the ignition is likely OK. Lack of power just might be a lack of fuel.

Is it a lack of fuel pressure, or fuel volume?

And when the engine lacks power....what would turning the engine off for a few minutes allow that results in recovering engine performance? Answer? Cooling of a component.

Most likely component? The fuel pump. It gets too warm from drawing too many amps and slows down.

Take a look at the fuel cut off switch wiring in the trunk where the wiring connects to the switch. Any signs of heat damage to the terminals or connector body? If so, heat increases resistance to current flow and lowers voltage.

It's silly to guess like this. But, if it were my car you have an idea what might be going through my mind and where I would start looking. I'd check fuel pressure and probably change the fuel filter before changing the fuel pump.

Roger

Thanks Roger. I pick up the car on Friday and will start troubleshooting. I'll get back with my results.
Bob

I'll check back.

Roger

I have driven the car for almost 1000 miles now. The only thing I notice happening is when you apply the brakes the pedal tends to suck itself in towards the floor. When it reaches a certain point the pedal starts to vibrate as if ABS were engaged. If I keep the pressure light on the pedal, this does not happen. Don't know if it is a boost problem or what. wise the car is fine. Just turned 75,000 mi.

Are the front brake rotors warping? Is that the kind of vibration? Can it be felt in the steering wheel?

Have the front wheel bearings been packed and adjusted for preload?

Roger

1992 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine   

Driving car at highway speed. Engine died smoothly and I coasted to shoulder. Good battery. Cranks great but has no indication of trying to start. Connected error code reader to car computer and it won't even light up let alone give error codes. Help!!

Have you used the error code reader on this car before? Is it possible the code reader is not compatible with your car? If not--

Does the check engine light come on when the key is turned ON, as it normally does?

Check fuses and connections at battery, solenoid, and grounds. Clean and/or replace as necessary.

If the problem is not here, check for spark to the spark plugs. Do you have spark OR need instructions on checking for spark?

Yes I've used this code reader on this car before.

check engine light has been on for over a year. car ran fine during that time.

Battery connections checked and cleaned, didn't need it. Car cranks fine, always did.

Not sure of "old days" technique should be done on later model cars; which was remove a spark plug wire and check for spark to ground when someone cranks the starter. The 4.6 V-8 does not have a distributer like many of the older cars had. So what's the proper way to check fro spark?

Use of a spark tester is preferred. Should be available at your favorite parts store. As long as the plug wire is not placed to far away from the engine block (ground, without anything that can be ignited) the old days test is still fine. A problem arises when attempting to jump spark to far, then it can do damage to sensitive electronics. It still is not likely to happen, think how often people drive around with a bad plug wire, but definitely worth taking precaution. Good thinking.

The reason for checing bat. cables, grounds, etc is because there are additional places for problems beyond the starter circuit. Will the 'check engine' light come on now (when you first turn the key on), this indicates the computer is getting power? I'll assume it is-- check for spark.

I can't find my last response to you when I told you about snow and Ice on the car. I was able to get in the car last night and ignition key on showed check engine light lit up ok. You indicated if it lit up computer was probably ok?

Another complaint about "new" cars. In the old days, it was easy to disconnect a fuel line from the carb and see if the fuel pump was working. Some year ago, I could no longer figure out how to disconnect Ford fuel lines. :(( Can you give me any hint on how to do this on the Mercury, to make sure it's getting fuel??

I'll try the old time spark gap test and will keep the gap small to keep the high voltage from build up so high before it jumps the test gap.

I'll be home over the weekend, can you communicate to my regular e-mail? Never did this before so I don't know how it works.

[redacted]

The fuel pressure is much higher on fuel injected cars, for this reason it is not recommended to check by removing the hose. First of all it is dangerous IF the fuel & vapors cannot be safely contained. Second, for driveability complaints, the test has no way of showing pressure that is a low enough to cause problems but still cabable of producing volume.

A fuel gauge is recommended, your choice.

Did you send me the e-mail on Autozone info? I really appreciate it if you did. I never knew that existed.

Any problem checking for spark on the mercury using the old time way of holding a "live wire" close to ground and seeing if it arcs while you crank the motor?

Yes, I sent an email but forgot to notify you here (so you'd expect it).

The old method will work fine.

Did an audio check on my 93 Crown Vic and determined you can hear the fuel pump pumping before you get the starter cranking over. 93 CV is almost same car as 92 Gran M. Same audio test resulted in no "audible" pump noise. Found a 20 Amp fuse had blown. Replaced it, got some pumping and a weak attempt to start (That's progress :)) ). Then that fuse blew.

Looks like Fuel Pump is mounted on front of tank. Haven't seen it yet, on the car. Going to remove the wire and see if a new fuse still blows. If it doesn't, looks like it's a bad fuel pump??

Do you concurr?

I guess for 200,000 + miles, I can't complain? Lousy time of year to be outside working on a car.

Yes, I do. Good work so far. If not check the wiring.

The autozone link I sent will also lead to instructions on the fuel pump. If you need a direct link to the info let me know.

My driveway is mud from frozen snow/rain melting which makes it hard to get under the Mercury. :( Would you happen to know where the fuel pump is on the gas tank? I hoping it's in the front and not on the top so I don't have to drop the tank to take it out? For peace of mind until I can get under the car. :))

Thanks

Hi,

Can you locate the fuel pump relay? This should allow us to perform a test that keeps you above the ground (for now anyway).

I'll see what I can find out about where it is and get back to you.

I've found the fuel pump relay and am puzzled at how to get the cover off that protects it and two other relays from the underhood "elements". For the backyard mechanic to look at it, it's not obvious on how to get this "unit" apart.
Frustration :(((((

I'll figure it out and be back in touch over the weekend.

Jacked the car up, found the fuel pump on front of tank (tailpipe is in the way for getting it out) removed the connector and replaced the fuse, ignition key to ON. Fuse does not blow. Also, plug in the code reader and it lights up and runs now. I get a 642 code which says FP isn't getting power. :))

Can you give me a hint on how to disconnect the fuel lines at the tank? Will the tool that does the fuel line removal under the hood work at the tank?

Yes, it probably does use the same tool at the tank as underhood.

Copy and paste the following links into your address bar--

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/37/9b/[redacted] 379b/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/37/9[redacted] 3790/repairInfoPages.htm

Note on the right side of the pages you can click additional component info.

Sorry for the delay, I was unable to access the internet...

I don't think you need info on the relay now, but let me know the numbers on the relay (example: 87, 87a, etc) and I'll let you know how to quickly test the circuit.

Glad you're back. I thought you'd dropped out. Checked your links and I've been there which was how I learned to do fuel lines under the hood.

Question about fuel lines coming to the tank. They are steel and end up flex lines (like what feed water to your toilet bowl). Do they detach from the steel fuel lines coming back to the tank? I feel like cutting them and removing the pump and using new flex lines to reinstall. I have loosened up front lines and gas pressure is relieved within the fuel lines, both of them.

I remember seeing the numbers you wrote in your last response on the new relay and I know I got the right relay. I'll write them down for next e-mail.

I was disappointed that I lost my error codes other than the fuel pump error code. Check engine light was on for many months and I'll have more work to do "if" I get it running again in orde to get it through Va emissions inspection to get new tags.

I have no idea how this "All-Parts" thing works. I listed my problem at less than what they asked for and then I heard from you. How do you get paid? I feel like getting some extra $$ to you for your patience and extended involvement with me. You have been a significant help.

I don't know much about how it looks on your end, but I get half of your offer.

Where did you get the (642) trouble code definition? I have looked at a couple sources and it wasn't listed.

Does your pump look like the pump at the following link?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=CTR&MfrPartNumber=P74668H&PartType=52&PTSet=A

Have you priced a new pump? Sometimes you can find a great deal on Ebay if you can handle the extra down time.

I forgot to comment on the fuel lines. I don't remember what they look like on the other end but recommend against cutting them as I'm not sure about the availability of direct replacement parts.

The "Merc." is totally frustrating me, as is the winter weather in the driveway....


No replies here???

Sorry to concern you about my safety situation. Car was jacked up and safety stands are under the rear frame holding it securely on both sides.

I hope to get the other fuel line lose, remove the lock ring and see if I can get the pump out by pulling it out slightly and tilting away from the tailpipe. If that doesn't work I'll see about your suggestion about the tailpipe and last case will drop the tank.

I siphoned the gas out and it's empty now. Had to remove the filler tube to get the siphon pump to work. :(( I'll be back to you with an update. Maybe this coming weekend.

You didn'ty answer me about getting some more money to you for you time? I'm about to hit the send key. :))

Hey, glad you are safe... :)

Maybe you could spray the bolts, in case you have to drop the tank over the weekend.

You can save money by just replacing the pump. This would not be an option if the lines coming from the sending unit need replacing.

The price without the gauge HW is not significantly cheaper and I don't want to have to do this again so I'll spend a little more and hopefully that will be it.

Did a "dummy" last weekend when I worked on it.

Turned the ignition keyn to on to check the fuel gauge to see if the tank was near empty. Gauge went to full so that precipitated all the work to siphon the tank. In the end I only got about 6 gal of gas out which puzzled me as the gauge said "full". Then I remembered the connector was off the fuel pump and I wasn't getting a gauge signal at the dashboard :(( A wasted 45 minutes getting the filler tube off the tank etc.

:)))))))))))

I wanted to let you know I finally got the pump in, primed it the way you said to and the '92 Mercury is on the road again. :))))))))))))))))

ANother question: I'd like to have my son consult with you about his pickup truck. How can he enter a question here and get you as the "helper"?

1992 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The stop lights-turn signals, cruise control, and A/C all stopped working at the same time. Also the it would not shift out of Park when the switch was all the way on. It would in the accessory position, and then start in neutral and work fine, but will not shift out of park, when turned on. All happen at the same time on a trip. Had to replace the battery two weeks ago.

First check the obvious(fuses)
Then check the fusable links near the battery,connections first at the solenoid, then the fusable links.A fuseable link looks like a regular wire that 'burns out' like a fuse.The insulation is unnafected by it burning out, so you have to feel and flex each one to determine an internal weak spot.

1992 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I pull the headlight switch back I lose my taillights; I havge to finesse it back in halfway to have tailights...two new switches, same prob...help

Hello, Does your car have automatic exterior lights (twilight sentinel)? Will turning the feature off have an effect?

Please advise,

Roger

It does not have twilight sentinel

Thanks. Are you replacing the main light switch or the multi-function switch?
If there has been no results replacing one, replace the other.

If you would like a wiring diagram please advise your email address.

Roger

only the main headlight switch. I have turn signals so I doubt its the multifunction swith. Can i get a diagram showing the inner operation of the headlight switch

Sure, I need your email address please.

The multi-function switch is definately part of the exterior lighting circuits even if you didn't think my suggestion is reasonable. The wiring diagram will help clarify this for you.

Does anything appear loose about the way the switch wiring connectors and terminals fit the switch?

Back after supper,

Roger

Ready to continuehere. I need your email address please.

Roger

Three pages scanned to email and ready to send to you. I need your email address please.

Roger

Still need help? I'm willing to continue with you if you will kindly reply.

Roger

I have beenexperiencing computer crash...sorry...Im stll intreseted in solving prob related to merc marquis

I'll need your email address to send the scanned wiring diagrams to you.

Thanks,

Roger

e mail is [redacted]

Email is on the way. Check your inbox, and spam/junk mail for the message.

Roger

Roger: With the help of the wiring diagrams you sent, I solved the taillight problem...finally. Thanks, I would never have thought that circuit also went through the multifunction switch.

Roger: Could you please tell billing they accidentally billed $15 three times and to credit the $30 overcharge back to my account. I cant connect with them for some reason

Yes, and I will send you a copy of my request on your behalf.

Roger

1991 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming When idling When cold

All interior lamps including dashboard illumination and indicators, exterior lights (headlights, etc) oscilate dimm/bright when idling. Alternator, belts and battery are all new.

Check your ground cable... make sure it is clean.. sounds like your problem. AL

1991 Mercury Grand Marquis All Part Groups Leaking When stopped No pattern

The driver's floor area is soaked, but nothing is wet around it- meanining any of the carpeting behind the gas pedal, under the seat, oron the passenger side. The wetness is not oily, and doesn't even smell. Mopping it up with paper toels, it is clear and just seems like water. There sre no holes in the frame. Under the hood, there are no signs of anything wet. I mopped it up wee, and it is soaked again. Haven't had any rain in a few days. Have any ideas? This is nuts! Thank you

Have you been using the AC or the heat while on defrost? The AC removes moisture from the interior, perhaps the drain is plugged.

I don't have working AC. I have had a new heater core recently installed...could that have anything to do with it?

Yes, possibly. Have the installer recheck their work, they are responsible if the repair was faulty (assuming a professional performed the repair).

1989 Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When stopped Always

All of the interior lights (doom and door panel lights) stay on when the car is parked with all doors closed and the ignition key removed. They will not time off. The head lights turn off properly. The head light rotary switch will not turn off the interior lights in any position. For now the car is parked with the neg. battery terminal cable lifted. Is there a fuse I can pull to turn off the interior lights and nothing else that is important? How can you tell if it is a door switch or the head light switch? I have ordered a shop manual from Helms. Thanks

Hello, Let me get a wiring diagram.

Do you have a fuse box legend that will tell you the fuse applications?

Roger

I do not have a fuse box legend. It is not written on the cover. The fuse block says refer to owners manual. I can not find the owners manual.

Mercy, I just looked through 15 wiring diagrams for the Grand Marquis and I am not seeing what you need.

My problem is the holiday. I can access a different data base tomorrow that I know will provide the answers.

Will it wait?

Roger

Today is a good day to work on the car. If the info is not available, tomorrow will have to do.

You are welcome to release the question so that others may answer today. They may have what you are looking for sooner and I would understand.

Have you considered connecting the battery and pulling the fuses one at a time until the interior lights go off?

I believe that a door latch switch has broken and will no longer cancel when the door closes. The driver's door is the one with the most use and is most often the cause.

Roger

I have considered removing the fuses one at a time to see when the lights go off but I do not know what else is affected. I may have to remove additional interior liners in an attempt to bypass door switches. I was trying to make the job a little easier. My background is heavy electrical, but I am not familiar with the routing of auto circuits. I am accustomed to wiring diagrams.

I understand. If the driver's door interior trim panel were removed the door latch switch could be unplugged at the latch. I hesitate to advise this as any door could have the problem.

Roger

I can not reach the back of the driver's door switch. It is recessed too far into the "A" column for my hand to reach. Ford must have a special tool for this. I tried releasing the question to others but I got a server error.

Roger,
Would it be proper to get a refund on this question and wait until I have a different type of question at a later date. It may be better to wait on my factory shop manuals to arrive since accessing this switch or the lighting circuit is so specific. This is a great website.

Fuse 8 turns off the courtesy lights.

You should be able to screw out the door post switches externally and check them. As long as the problem is the switch, the repair is easy.

Thank you. Fuse 8 turned off the interior lights as requested and the clock. I can do without the clock. Is there anything else on fuse 8? Will twisting the door switch for removal cause a problem with the connected wires?

I believe there is a chime on that same fuse. It will likely cause you to lose radio memory.

The switches are supposed to be able to handle turning out. However, if the wires are brittle, anything could happen.

1989 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel System   

the fuel pump continues to run after car is shut off! sometime a short time sometimes a long time! the fuel pump relay switch has been replace! do you know what this could be?

does the car have air ride?

not that I'm aware of! how could air suspension have an affect on the fuel system?

It could be the computer, but are you sure you tried the correct relay? Unplug the relay you replaced and see if the fuel pump still runs.

Have you checked the EEC relay also?

The following link contains a schematic of the fuel pump circuit. Copy and Paste into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] 3db6.gif

If you had air ride, this system can still run after engine shut down. This could be mistaken for fuel pump noise. If you removed the fuel pump relay and the noise disappears, it is indeed the fuel pump. This would rule out anything else causing the noise.

What have you tried so far?

no air ride

Usually shutting off the key interrupts the current to the pump, if it was not I'd suspect the ignition switch. Check to see if there was a recall for that. It seems there might. If the fuel regulator was worn the fuel might bypass back to the tank....
You might remove the fuel cap and have a listen at the opening to ensure it really is the pump.

Bruck Kit is correct. There was a recall on the ignition switch. Has the recall been performed?


File Date 5/1/1996
Mfr. Involved FORD MOTOR COMPANY

Component Affected ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION

# Vehicles Affected [redacted]

Defect THE IGNITION SWITCH COULD EXPERIENCE AN INTERNAL SHORT CIRCUIT.
Consequence THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE OVERHEATING, SMOKE, AND POSSIBLY FIRE IN THE STEERING COLUMN AREA OF THE VEHICLE.
Corrective Action DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH.

Please let know what you have ruled out so far.

if the ignition is the problem then was does everything else turn off?

1989 Mercury Grand Marquis Windows / Glass   

The window on the driver's side door will go down but will not go up; the motor appears to be running but a popping sound occurs as it is energized in the up position. Please advise!

Hello, The car will probably need a window motor. What you describe sounds like a gear has stripped in just the right place that once the window is down the stripped section of the gear prevents raising the window.

Roger

Are they hard to replace?

You can do it if you have tools and are handy with cars.

Roger

Do you need more information?

Please advise, I do want to help.

Roger

Have I answered your question? If yes, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

Roger

1989 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine   

this is a station wagon,but it shouldn't matter,anyway it's very hard to start, if it starts at all,it doesn't seem to be getting gas pressure while cranking.I changed the fuel pump in the tank,didn't help,i'm told that the pressure regulator is o.k. also.When it does start it has 40 p.s.i. but only 14 when the key is turned on and not running.the relay sounds like it's working. ????? please help thank you.

Sounds like the fuel pressure is too low. Injected motors require more than 14 psi to start.Test the voltage to the pump, and ensure the wires are correctly installed.
If everything checks out, you might have a bad fuel pump. I have seen it happen with new pumps.

OK,BUT WHAT SHOULD THE VOLTAGE BE 12 VOLTS ? SHOULD IT STAY 12 VOLTS WHILE CRANKING ? COULD THE RELAY BE CUTTING OF THE VOLTAGE WHILE CRANKING?

Relay could cut out when cranking, voltage should be 13.5-14 V.even when cranking. Ensure Alt/batt system ok.

1989 Mercury Grand Marquis Ignition System   

when starting the car starter stays likes its starting replaced the starter oh could shut it off with key had to disconnect from the battery so replaced starter and was starting fine until now it started doing the same thing again this time the black wire on the battery had silver stuff coming from it and then the car just went dead and wont do anything now

Hello, Has the battery gone dead? Have you inspected the ignition switch for evidence of heat damage? Will turning on the ignition switch result in the instruments coming on?

Roger

there is no lights on instrument panel it is complete nothing a couple days after replacing the starter i started and drove the car shut it off and tried to restart it nothing it gave me a click and nothing i jumped the car and drove home, how to check for heat damage from ignition switch

the battery terminal melted that was the silver stuff replaced the terminal and battery charged up still sticking in starting position back to original problem

The battery terminal melted due to heat from a major drain (short).

Remove the trim just below the steering wheel to expose the ignition electrical switch and connector.

I submit you may need to replace this switch as it is defective and leaves the starter engaged.

Have you located the remote starter solenoid on the inner fender of the car nearest the battery? The battery positive cable will be connected to it. Are there any wires attached to the same terminal on the solenoid that have burned? (These wires are fusible links)

Roger

1988 Mercury Grand Marquis Windows / Glass Failing Happens always Always

We have always had trouble with the other 3 windows sliding down on occastion, especially when the door is slammed. I assumed it is something with a bad motor or track but since we can manually slide them back up we don't worry about it. The driver door window has always worked fine. Out of the blue with no warning it is approx. 2/3 way up and won't respond at all to the switch. A 20 amp fuse was blown and I have replaced it but no change in the window. Please help. Would the motor goe out all of a sudden or what else could it be.

THANK YOU,
DM

It may be the gear drive in the motor.If you can hear the motor on these doors,this is most likely the case.This is a pretty common problem on FoMoCo vehicles.There is a gear drive kit for these that runs around $20-$25 a door.Let me know if this is your situation and I'll try to steer you through it if you plan on attempting it yourself.I would say that this is around a medium skill level repair with common hand tools.
Good Luck,
Paul

1988 Mercury Grand Marquis Ignition System Malfunction When stopped Always

I just brought this car from my brother. It has not been cranked for several months. It is on a trailer. I cannot get the key to unlock the steering column. The key will not turn from the off or key removal position.

Spray the lock cylinder with lubricant. Also turn the steering wheel back a forth while trying the key. One more thing is to move the shifter (you shouldn't be able to move the steering wheel or shifter much) while trying the key. These both lock the ignition and one is likely causing the binding.

I don't have any lock lube. How about penetrating oil,
WD 40 or spray lithium grease?
I have turned the wheel back and forth. The shifter will not come out of Park.
It has a charged battery. The driveshaft is diconnected (I don't believe this should have anything to do with the situation, but info, just in case.)

Just wiggle the shifter slightly. Penetrating oil would be fine. BTW- are you absolutely certain you were given the right key?

I am not absolutely sure about the key. The key that was with the car was misplaced. I found a box of keys with four sets of Ford keys. The round keys on three of the sets fit the Mercury door and trunk; the square key will insert the ignition, but not release it.
Is the release mechanism all mechanical? What conditions must exist for the lock to release?

I cannot be certain which optional equipment your car may have. You may have to remove the lock cylinder to make sure you have the right key.

If you don't have a repair manual you can access a free online repair guide at the following site-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

I went to the Auto Zone site and that info is very helpful.
The situation seems that either the keys are not correct or there is a malfunction in the lock cylinder.
What are your thoughts?

It could be either, but I really have to be skeptical about the key. Do you have more than one key to try out of the ones you found?

I found 4 sets. One set would not fit into the door, trunk or ignition. The round key of the other three sets would open the door and the trunk, but the square key would fit into the ignition, but not unlock it.
I thought that since the round key fit, that the square key of those sets would be the correct ignition key.
Now it seems that either the lock is defective or the key is wrong.
Seems the next action is to take the car to a locksmith.
Your thoughts?

Or replace the lock cylinder, if it is not to expensive.

That is an interesting idea; but doesn't the cylinder have to be in the RUN position to remove the keeper pin?

Sorry, yes I believe so. I've seen people remove them with a large screwdriver & hammer or a slidehammer, but this can damage the steering column and is not worth the risk.

1988 Mercury Grand Marquis Drive Train / Driveline   

I just bought a used Grand Marquis. At speeds of 45 and up the engine speed just goes up. I think the transmition is not shifting into Drive or Overdrive.

1st and 2nd work fine and you can hear and feel the transmition shift once but that's it. The coloumn indicator is correct so I don't think it is the linkage.

If I let off the gas pedel at 50mph, the engine speed goes way down almost like it is in overdrive. I am 54 years old and I have had a few cars in my day. This is clearly not shifting into the higher gear.

I was going to change the fluid and filter. Do you think that will help? or Is there a sensor somewhere that could be causing this problem?

Start by checking the kick-down linkage. This is the cable that connects from the transmission to the throttle body (replaced carburetors). It is supposed to keep/shift the transmission into a lower gear when you are passing/accelerating. It it's misadjusted or binds it may be your problem. Check for proper operation of cable.

1987 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine   

my Mercury Gran MArquis 5.0 has a strange tendency to surge/lunge at low rev's, like idling through a parking lot, it will lunge, there are no codes coming up, have changed so many items on car, but still didn't help, new plugs, wires, egr valve, idle control, cap/button, module on the distributor, nothing seems to help.

Common problem. First check hoses etc for vacuum leaks ( a hidden one can be in the powerbrake vacuum booster diaphram...evident if brake pedal feeling 'hard')
Had the same problem on my truck...that surging at low speeds. I removed the throttle body and cleaned under it with a complete can of air intake cleaner.
The surging is caused when there is a build up of sludge under the throttle body. The air fuel mixture, instead of being finely atomized, separates into droplets on the sides of intake.This will not only give you surging, but poor gas mileage as well as poor emissions.

1986 Mercury Grand Marquis All Part Groups Won't Start  

my 86 grand marquis stalled and then will not restart. starter and battery are strong..at the same time as the stall incidentally the power steering cap had popped off n spewing fluid about engine compartment..i pulled out a plug reconnected the wire held it close to block but couldnt readily tell if there was spark..i pulled the air intake manifold off, sprayed some 'quick start' into the valve, but no firing occurred..i had also just been removing alot of articles from the trunk and may have hit the fuel pump reset switch so i reset it into the 'down' position..i am 1000 miles from home and dont have much money, what can i try next to determine exactly what part i need to replace?..thank u

You need to determine if you have spark or not... It sounds like the coil may have gone bad. Also check your Distributor Rotor and cap for excessive wear. Also make sure that when you are turning the engine over that the distributor rotor is turning (this will check for a broken timing chain). Your problem doesnt sound fuel related because you sprayed Quick Start into the throttle body and the car still didnt start. Check these things and let me know. If I can be of further assistance you can contact me directly at [redacted] upon accepting this response.

wow this is actually working this is good..ok im not a totally dummy about shade tree mechanics, but i tried to put a set of points n rotor in a car once and totally screwed things up...if i just put them in like i see them will i be ok?..what about the coil as well?...the car is 20 miles outside of town and so i need to take everything i need to work on it...thanks so much

See Email... Pleas accept this response and I will continue to communicate with you via email. Thank You

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1986 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine Hesitating When accelerating No pattern

Periodic hesitating upon acceleration ... problem comes and goes ... worst through 1st and second gears ... pushing the pedal down more and more results in no speed change until shifting to next gear ... accelerates fine sometimes ... not at others ... day to day. Suggestions?

Is this the fuel injected 5.0L engine?

We will first need to determine if this is an engine performance problem (which hopefully you can find and fix) or a transmission problem (which will most likely require a rebuild or replacement). Does the engine rpm's increase when you press on the gas and the car does not speed up? If it does the transmission is failing. If not let me know.

Yes, this is the 5.0L fuel injected engine, sorry I didn't give that info ... no, the rpm's don't increase as you push on the pedal ... it's just really doggy, the power almost seems to decrease the further you push the pedal down. As you let up on the pedal, it seems to release almost at the top, go ahead and shift and take off in the next gear ... very slowly.

There is the possibility of a plugging catalytic converter, in this case it would continue to get worse the more you drove and would be especially noticeable on hills.

I'm leaning towards your problem being an intermittent sensor. Any check engine light while the engine is on?

Use the following link for a repair guide that'll offer instructions for testing sensors. Mainly the TPS (throttle position sensor) and MAP or MAF sensor (I can't remember which your car uses, mass airflow sensor or manifold absolute pressure sensor). If you have a map sensor carefully inspect the vacuum hose to the sensor. If you have the MAF sensor try cleaning the sensor filament with electrical cleaner (spray can, don't scrub the filament with anything).

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1986 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine   

vacum lines to the map sensor are crossed up and i cant remember how they go send pic if u can

Hello, What engine please? Fuel injection or carb?

I have a diagram for the 302 engine. I'll need your email address or fax number to send it to you. The quality is not great.

Has the vacuum diagram normally on the car under the hood been ruined or lost?

Roger

its a feul injected 302 and the diagram under the hood is lost

Thank you, I'll need your email address or fax number please.

Roger

[redacted]

Thank you. I'll get drawings and abbreviation definitions out to you. Since the label under the hood is lost I do not know which calibration your car has. Therefore I'll send too much information and you will need to pick the one that best suits your needs.

Thanks,

Roger

I have emailed the vacuum diagrams to you.

Thanks,

Roger

thanks stick i seen the pics and this mite help i hit u up and let u know if im runnin

I'm waiting for your reply.

Thanks,

Roger