Mercury Tracer

1999 Mercury Tracer Drive Train / Driveline   

The transmission works fine for awhile, but once it warms up abit, it won't shift from low to drive.....If I go from drive to neutral then back to drive, it will upshift but then shift back to low. Fluid level good and not burnt smelling. Is there a speed senser or a vacuum controller bad maybe???????

Hello,

Does the check engine light come on at anytime while the engine is running? If there is a problem with a speed sensor it will, hopefully, turn on the check engine light. If the light is on you can have the codes checked free at Autozone or Advance Auto. You probably should go there anyways and have them check the codes. Even if the light is not on, they can check for what is called 'Pending Trouble Codes.' The obstacle here is that many of the workers are unaware that pending codes will still show up even if the engine light is not on, they have to check.

Let me know what they find and we'll continue as necessary.

1998 Mercury Tracer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Attached directly to the negative battery cable right at the battery post is a 3"x3" black plastic box, wires in one end and brass metal that is part of the negative battery cable out the other end; hangs off the cable. The two "plugs" that look like they would come out if I broke the "locks" don't look like they would show me any fuses or hints of a function other than just a junction box.... What is this??? Mine is corroded and ideally needs replacement, but parts n/a.

what size engine do you have so I can look at the diagram for your car

It will be my determination that you have a double fusable link at the battery according to the 2.0 liter 4 cylinder engine , soley for your car.
one wire goes to the alternator and the other to the ignition distribution.
These links are contained within the box you speak of
If indeed they are corroded you really should change them out before they go out ,and they will cause you to be in a no start condition if they go
I hope this helps

The engine is a 2-liter SOHC. The problem is that the part, fusible links, is only available when buying the positive and negative cable set through Motorcraft Ford Parts, and they want $425 in Michigan, the only place my parts store could find. I fixed the cable with a universal battery post connector and left just enough of the brass metal from the fusible link box to put under the clamp. Do you know of another car like Mazda, Nissan, or ? that uses this fusible link box?

Here is what would help: I want to get a fusible link box the same amp-rating that I can mount on the firewall or fender well away from the battery so it will not corrode (I remember owning a 260Z that had its fusible links separate like this). I would just run a wire of the right gauge (?) from the negative post on the Tracer to the new f.l. box. If you could help me do this conversion, I will double the fee. The f.l. box would have to be the same amp-rating.

I can Get you that information and make sure it is the correct one.
You will not have to pay more for the answer.
There are other cars that use the same universal part it is really based on the full load amperage of the car
I will have to do a little more research give me till tommorow and I can have your information.

Fusible links are often identified by the color coding of the insulation.
What color is the one you have.

Thank you. The car is with my daughter, so I will call and get them to check the color codes coming into the f.l. box tomorrow - will respond when I have the info.

ok

Going in one side of plastic box are 2 pairs (4wires) all black with yellow stripe. On the opposite side of the box is 1 pair (2 wires) blue with orange stripe.

Yes that is the information I was looking forThe color Blk or blk/yel determines a #16 gauge wire size for the fusible link.
that will be the size you need to replace it with.
If at all possiblr solder the connection instead of tusing the solderless connectors for the joint.

I hope this helps

1995 Mercury Tracer Ignition System   

the car will not start after it is warm,I put the key in,all of the electrics work,I've had this problem before and i changed the battery out and all was good,now it's doing it again. When i replaced the battery i got a 5 yr cold climate it has been 2yrs now.
i jumped the battery,and it started,then i shut it off and tried to start it again and it didn't start back up,so i re jumped it again and it wouldn't start

Hello, What do the battery cable connections look like when disconnected for inspection? Consider having the battery tested for capacity.

Do you drive the car often?

Roger

1-connections all look good 2-daily 3-took battery back to o'reilly's, tested good and they charged it up.
I thought maybe the control module,but that would only control spark to the plug.
sometimes when i start or try to start it hesitates before anything happens,and also the starter sometimes or seliniod makes a clicking sound,the starter has only made normal starter noises,no grinding or over engagement of the fly wheel and starter gear
i plan on taking the control module off and having it tested.
i've worked on my older cars before but this is the newest one
Thanks for any help, Russ




then i thought selinoid,which is i think replaceable

I'm confused now. When the condition is present does the starter crank the engine?

Roger

no,nothing,zip,but the radio,dome lights,idiot lights and anything else electric. just no starter
Russ

All right no control module will factor here.

Has corrosion penetrated the battery cable length under the insulation sleeve? If so the flow of amps to operate the starter will be impaired greatly.

When the condition is present check to see (if when the key is in the start position) voltage arrives at the starter solenoid to energize the starter? If it does and the starter does nothing-- replace it.

Roger

I checked the cable (the cable looks good) & replaced the battery clamp, i don't have a voltage meter,getting to the starter is a pain, i tried to re start and jump start (it,s chilly and thought that the boost couldn't hurt)no crank,pop or fizz.
Should i replace the starter or selenoid or change both? i'm not going to do it my self so i need to be infomed on what needs to be done. i don't want to have unnessary things done or charges
Russ

The difficulty in accessing the starter must be done to verify the voltage is sent to the starter or we are guessing. Like you I don't like guessing at retail prices.

Replacing the starter and solenoid would be my recommendation if the voltage is getting to the old starter but the starter does not energize.

Roger

i don't have a lot of tools so i need to know if the volt tester needs to have a meter for a specific voltage reading or like the cheap one that i have where it has a probe w/light on one end and a wire w/aligator clip?
i can't jack the car up high enough to get under to find the starter. i think it's on the drivers side back?
i have a floor jack coming on loan thurs. will i need one?
i have been looking on the auto zone web site and found an online how to spot w/pictures. one pic. looks like they pulled the starter from the top.
if i just have to replace the selaniod,will i have to take the stater out? if i do i might as well replace both just as i fix one the other will go bad. i'm trying to prepare if this is the problem,who knows it could be a bad cable. i took it over to pepboys to have the trans filter and fluid changed. they might have bumped it or loosened it up tying to get thier adapter on they use to suck out all the crap out(which they said wouldn't fit, so they did it the old fashion way)
sorry it took so long to get back w/you, i work nights and only have an hour or two work on it.
thanks, Russ

Is this Tracer a 1.8L 0r a 1.9L engine? Auto trans or manual shift?

If auto trans there is a range switch on top of the trans operated by the shift cable when you select the different gears. This is the safety start switch that allows the engine to start in Park or Neutral.

The connector on the switch has a Blk/Red wire that goes down to the starter solenoid. This is the wire that should be switched hot when the key is in the start position. If your probe can access this wire at the switch and lights-up when the key is in start the power should be getting to the starter.

Testing this way assumes there are no broken wires or bad connections....between the switch and the starter.

I never replace only the solenoid unless I I broke it myself.

Roger

it's a 1.9 auto, i never thought of that, my 1st car was a 75 pinto (used 2yrs old w/24k on it) had only 2 weeks and i took it back to the car dealer, his mech. said the safety switch went out. they changed it for me.
i looked on autozone again and they say it's located under the air tube.
i have somethings to do before work so i'll check it tomorrw morning.
thanks, Russ

I do hope you can find the trouble this way.

Roger

i took the air tube and filterbox out so i can get a better look. there is 2 conecters on top then a wire that goes to the other side of the switch that goes down somewhere if that's the wire i'm looking for i can't get to the end that goes down somewhere(didn't get a chance to follow it all the way,had to go to work).
i did check autozone again and the tips section said that if the switch isn't adjusted that the car wouldn't start,so i did the test of turning the key on and putting the gear selctor in reverse to see if the back up lights worked (they do) also said that the back up light switch is part of the neutral safety switch. i never did try to start it in neutral.
i'll look more into all of that stuff in the morning.
i know that if i can get to the starter area i'm sure a lot of my questions will be solved.
i'll get back with you on what i find out.
thanks, Russ

You are doing good things. Keep me posted.

Roger

How are you doing here?

Roger

1995 Mercury Tracer Fuel System   

car ran ok yesterday. accelerated kind of doggy-sluggesh. would not start this am.crank the engine and it would run for a couple seconds and then quit. we replaced the serpintine belt and timing belt yesterday but that should not affect the fuel problem? where is the fuel filter on the car? thanks for the help. jim hammer

Hello
What exactly do you mean changed the timimg belt?
Location of fuel filter its on the firewall close to the bottom towards the driver's side. If you're looking at the engine from the front of the car you'll see a battery. Behind the battery is the master cylinder it's left and down of that.
I would also worry about the fuel punp in this case.
Please remember to depressurize fuel system before messing with any part of it (simple to do just remove the fuel cap).
Heavychevy

we changed the serpintine belt and also the timing belt as it was makeing a noise. will check fuel filter.is fuel pump in fuel tank? thanks again jim hammer

The location of fuel pump is the tank. I would try to check the timing once more just to make sure its not that.
Heavychevy

.

..

1994 Mercury Tracer Engine Stalling When idling No pattern

Mileage 114000. Car has been reliable to date, but lately on cold start, the RPM surges to about 1700, then slowly recovers to normal. Car has also begun stalling at idle from time to time -- not always. It will restart and runs great when not at idle, but the stalling at idle is happening more often. Any idea what to check first?

You may have a problem that can be one of three things that come to mind or a combination of them. There is a possibility the fuel injection system is dirty. Another is the TPS sensor and the last being the MAF sensor. All of these factors should send a code to your ECM that can be retrieved with a scanning device. If you want to proceed on your own, check with one of your local parts houses(Pep Boys,Auto Zone etc.)Some offer the scanning service for free or at a nomonal charge. If a code is retrieved from the system, rather than take the techs advise as to repair of said code, I'd ask if they could supply a copy or dirrect you to where you can obtain a detailed flow chart for the errant code. I've seen too many times where a tech will throw the first part at the top of the chart at the vehicle and determine the problem solved. By following the complete chart, you assure yourself the problem is solved.
Good Luck,
Paul

I did get a trouble code out of the car, but it was not related to one of the areas you suggested. The KOEO result was 111, normal. The engine running result was 172, no HEGO switching, indicates lean. Any other ideas?

If the vehicle is in fact running lean, and the MAF and TPS have been ruled out, my next train of thought would be exaust An O2 sensor would send a code that may fall into the 172 code you retrieved. Again a flow chart is nessesary to determine. The air to fuel mixture may be hamperred by the lack of proper exhaust that this sensor detects which also may lead to a bad catalytic converter.
Good Luck,
Paul

It turned out to be none of the above. The intake manifold gasket was leaking. Fixed that and the car runs normal now, no codes. The vacuum leak caused the observed symptoms -- high idle on cold start due to the extra gas injected, then stalls at idle after warmup due to excessive lean condition, and confirmed by the "lean" code. For your use in future diagnoses... thanks for the ideas, anyway. ---Pete

Just read youre responce. Yeah, after talking with an old co-worker, he too had the same veiws as mine but also stated he wouldnt rule out some type of vacuum leak. Just kind of hard to diagnosis some problems without an actual "hands-on".Glad to hear you got your problem solved.
Good Luck,
Paul

1994 Mercury Tracer Fuel System   

The car stalls at stop lights when the car is warmed up. While sitting at a light the RPM's sit at about 1000 RPM's before it drops down to 500 or so. The RPM's keep bouncing, the it cuts off. Any idea what might be wrong?

Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?

The common problems for this complaint are the TPS (throttle position sensor) and IAC (idle air control valve).

It does cut on from time to time, but usually goes out within 2 to 5 miles.

Does it appear to coincide with the problem?

It does sometimes. The car is now stalling at almost any light after the engine is warmed up. Even if I just let off the gas while preparing to stop (drop below about 10MPH) the car will cut off sometimes.

If it is a bad TPS or IAC, what does that normally run to repair? Is it something that can be done myself, or is it better to have someone else do it? Thank you for your help!

It would be nice to know which trouble codes the computer is setting. Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/13/c2/1[redacted] c212/repairInfoPages.htm

You want instructions under- 'Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.'

You can also remove and clean the idle air control valve along with the throttle body (blade and IAC port especially). Use throttle body cleaner and a brush.

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/13/c0/0e/[redacted] c00e/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/13/c0/3c/[redacted] c03c/repairInfoPages.htm

The two links above are for the IAC and TPS.

It is rather simple to just replace the parts, diagnosing is a bit more difficult. Let me know which trouble codes you find.

1993 Mercury Tracer Engine Slipping When driving Always

my idle goes up and down at times but now the idle goes up high even when holding diwn brakes

i lose power when traveling uphill i have to give much more gas than need to be while sitting at stop sign or light on my brakes the idle goes up very high that if it wasnt for brakes i cant stop after putting in park the gas just goes i have to cut off car fast

i was told that it has too do something with the cables

Lets start with the basics. When was the last time that you did a complete tune up (plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, cap, rotor, pvc valve and oil change) and has this problem been gradual or sudden. If it has been gradual you may have a build up of varnish and goooo (that is a technical term) in the throttle body and injectors and a visit to a good shop with an fuel injection system cleaning system is in order. Cost should be less than 50.00 for this service. Do not let them just add a can of STP fuel treatment and call it fixed, the results should be immediate after the cleaning service. If the problem was immediate in nature, you may have an injector that failed and the ECU is overworking the other injectors to compensate for the weak injector. This might also indicate the uphill loss of power. Start with the tune up and see what happens. If you sent the car to the shop for this repair you are looking at about 500.00 or more so do what you can at home and save the $$$. The fuel system cleaning you will have to send to the shop for. I dont believe you need to make any adjustments to the cables and I would not mess with them until I have gone thru EVERYTHING else. Good luck. AL

yes the cable was tighten up which brought my idle where it needed but now my car is over heating the inside window moist so i have too keep my heater on unless im on the freeway.

So you also have a problem with the inside of the windshield staying moist?? This will sound crazy does the moisture have a sweet smell to it and have you changed the thermostate to help prevent the overheat problem? And did I understand the engine RPM problem is ok now? looking for your info. AL

it could be that of the thermastatic but why after not starting i put gas it alsoturned on wind shield wiper too clean windows and lost all power

Dude, I am having a real hard time understanding you. Try writing one idea at a time and you did not answer if the moisture on the windshield has a sweet smell. AL

no. it smell like rusted radiator

ok, I think you have a lot of problems. Sounds like your heater core has failed and is causing the moisture on the inside of the windshield. Replacing the heater core requires dis-assembly of part of the dash panel behind the glove box. The sweet smell would have been anti-freeze, but now I think it is safe to say that there is no anti-freeze in your engine. Lets work on this one problem at a time.

So lets review.
The idle problem was because the throttle cable was over tightened, correct?
Engine is overheating, have you changed the thermostate? flushed the radiator? checked your hoses for deterioration?
You mentioned engine overheat, how bad? These engines do not like to overheat. Have you checked the engine oil for signs of water or discoloration?
Is the battery fully charged? This could be why the wipers shut the the car down.
Answer these questions and let see if we can get you on the road. AL

all sounds about right. now out of all this i thought it was my battery, towed to shop my fuse pump went out what could had cost this?

Fuel pumps stop working quite often after about 6 years. If you got 10 years you did well. Things that help a fuel pump last is never run the tank below 1/4 and always put high quality gas (not premium) just not dirty gas in the tank.
So how does the oil look in the engine? Al

1993 Mercury Tracer Engine Overheating When driving Always

CHECK COOLET LIGHT ON & OFF SITS BETWEEN NORMAL/HOT OFF FREEWAY ANDCOOL ON FREEWAY

check that your overflow resevoir is at the correct level. coolant level sensor is in the resevoir. check for coolant leak, proper cooling fan operation, hopefully your head gasket is not blown which the 1.9 engine is prone to. good luck

you asked a question in this forum about your Mercury... were you satisfied with the answer

1993 Mercury Tracer Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

I recently purchased a used 1993 mercury topaz which runs good... until you reach over and turn the headlights on. As soon as the lights are switched on, the transmission shifts down and the rpms go up. It will not up shift unntil the headlights (and park lights) have been turned off, then it goes back to normal. Even my father-in-law who has been a mechanic for 50 years is baffled. Any ideas?

hey guy I think I got this weird figured out
some how your head lights switch wire are shorted to the sending unit for your cruise control module
I hope this helps

Here are a few spefics that may help:
1993 Mercury Tracer, Automatic transaxle with overdrive....

When driving in over drive and the parklights or headlights are turned on it down shifts into drive and wont change back until the lights are turned off. It stays in drive all the time even when stopped. It pulls out in drive gear, it doesn't shift to low gear when stopped.

With the lights off everything is normal. It does not have cruise control.

A new headlight switch was installed at a Mercury dealer short;y before I purchased it. It did not correct the problem. They didnt know what was wrong with it. Sometimes the insturment light panel blinks off and on when the headlights are on.

A new altenator was installed at the sametime the headlight switch was. The H/L switch is on the left side of the steering column. It has a seperate switch on the dash to dim and brighten the insturment panel lights.

It will however go into low gear if it is manually shifted.

Hopefully this new info will help you more. Appreciate your time.

the problem is in your wiring harness you will need to trace it to the short maybe the dealers are the ones responsible for the short

1993 Mercury Tracer All Part Groups Failing When driving 

Bought my used Tracer three years ago. It has been low maintenance. Last week took it in for oil change...this new repair shop suggested coolant flush, new alternator belt, and front brakes. I had front brakes done 2 years ago... he said possibly inferior.
After picking up car brakes need much pressure and there's kind of a whooshing,sucking-air continuous sound. I figure maybe the new belt installed.
24-hours later, which would equal less than 1-1/2 hours actual driving time, my check coolant light goes on while driving in 25mph traffic. The car suddenly is not getting gas, brakes lose power, as well as steering... I manage to turn off the main road and roll to a stop. At this point, I get out of the car, find a puddle of coolant on the ground, I check the coolant reserve bottle, and it has completely siphoned out... I can see all the way down to the bottom of the hose where there I see a trace of coolant. I've never had the reserve bottle siphon out completely on any of my cars. The repair shop then told me it was the fuel pump, but when car still wouldn't start they're telling it's might be timing belt.
They're disregarding "check coolant" precipitated my shut-down. I'm thinking they overlooked closing off something securely after the coolant flush. If so, what other area would directly or indirectly result in damage from a coolant malfunction. (It later occurred to me that the whooshing/sucking sound I originally heard might have been my coolant leaving the system through some opening left undetected... the repair shop said I still had coolant in my radiator.) I need advice on what caused this vehicle failure, and what might get it running again.

There are a slew of problems that may have occured. The garage that is working on your car is a bunch of hacks. Your problems all sound related to the coolant (or lack of coolant) problem. Where did the coolant go? There are a number of possibiities: The hose on the bottom of the reservoir was cracked, broken or just disconnected..this would account for the empty bottle. I believe the radiator was empty when u got to the shop and they filled it up.. just a hunch.. where would the water from the radiator go.. well it could be a damaged hose or it could be they did not close the drain valve fully at the bottom of the radiator or it could be the flush connector was not properly installed (this would leave a garden sized hole in your hose). The sucking sound could have been many things including the coolant spraying onto a belt and getting slung around. The shut down is most likely due to overheat.. unfortuately your engine has aluminum heads and they distort and crack when not properly cooled. I believe that you will find this has occured. The timing belt is a bs diagnosis based upon info u provided. To check for a cracked head or failed head gasket.. either look at the oil dipstick and if u see any water or a milky consistancy.. u have major problems.. or u can pull a few spark plugs and look for water or a red color .. Let me know if i can be more help. I think this shop and your lawyer are going to see each other in court.

Is it possible that there was still enough coolant in the radiator to protect the engine even though the reserve bottle and approximately 12 to 18" of the hose extending down was emptied of coolant? Could they get the car started again with a minimally cracked head or minimally cracked gasket? If so, are there other symptoms, sounds, etc., I should watch for on this particular problem if they get the car going with a new timing belt? (I would imagine if they really wanted to hide an engine problem they might change the oil again before releasing the car.)

Yes there is a possibility. I hope I did not direct you to replace the engine without further troubleshooting. But having the engine shut down due to over heat is not a good sign..Look for the milky oil and check the spark plugs as I suggested earlier. And yes they might change the oil to hide a problem. HOw many miles does the engine have and specifically which engine your Tracer has and I can tell you what the recommended change out for the timing belt is. Al

I assume that after 2 months that your have found a solution to the problems with the engine.. Hope things are running better and please use the service again in the future.

1988 Mercury Tracer All Part Groups Failing When shifting Always

The clutch is failing to disengage. I spoke to a local mechanic who told me that the clutch has a master cylinder on the fire wall and to find it and fill it with brake fluid. I'm trying to descripe this over the phone to my 20yr old daughter. Is this true and exactly where can she find it and how big and what does it look like. He said if this is still full that it is the clutch rather than a leak, true?

Hello, Yes, there is a master cylinder for the clutch on the firewall under the hood next to the brake master cylinder. It is not as large in physical size as the brake master cylinder but looks very similar.

The clutch reservoir is usually plastic and has a cap that unscrews for filling. There are no wires connected to the cap that would turn on a low fluid light (like a low brake fluid level would, were it the brake system).

Simply put, there are two reservoirs pretty much side-by-side on the firewall under the hood on the driver's side. Both use brake fluid. Both have a cap that unscrews or pulls off (like tupperware lid) for filling. Brake reservoir has two steel lines connected to it. Clutch reservoir has one steel line connected to it.

Fill them both as needed. No risk of harm will be done here.

Fluid is not consumed. If it is low in the clutch reservoir there is likely a leak in the hydraulic slave cylinder down at the far end of the steel line that connects to the clutch master cylinder. If fluid level is low in the brake system it can be due to normal wear of the brake pads, or a leak (usually noted by spongy brake pedal sensation).

Your daughter (or a friend) can add fluid. The cap says what type fluid ( DOT3, Dot4, whatever). Or, consult the owners manual. Even a parts store attendant can advise. Someone with experience should address any leak.

Roger

Fantastic, you are awsome but one more thing, if resevour is full is that a pretty good indicator that the clutch went out???

No, it could still be the master cylinder itself or even the slave cylinder is/are "by-passing".

By-passing refers to allowing fluid to pass by the seal and piston that is meant to displace fluid and perform work. If fluid gets past a seal, no work gets done.

If there are no fluid related issues then you can suspect the clutch pressure plate or the fork that holds the throw-out bearing (used to release the clutch) to be at fault. A pressure plate and clutch disc along with the throw-out bearing are most often all replaced at the same time.

Sorry about the delay in response, I was putting a dash back together.

Roger

1988 Mercury Tracer Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

this carn turns as was in running cond, she went to party and back out of drive, she thought it ran out of gas , pull line off , got plenty gas,put spark tester on plug, a glass see thru one ,no spark, put anthor comp in car out anthor car , still no spark, check coil, its was good, check dist, it was good, so i put anthor dist in to be sure still no spark,so i am at a lost what to do next. Thankyou any help would be greatly apprectiad.

Hi;
You might want to check the timing belt. Sounds like it gave up. Good Luck Les.

but the timming belt is still on car and turning

Hi;
Is the distributor turning ? If not might have a busted cam. Thanks Les.

yes it is check that too and turning

Hi;
Run a hot wire to the coil positive side. If this starts it up check the fusible links next to the battery. Thanks Les.

oky will try that next thks

OK

1988 Mercury Tracer Engine   

I am trying to get my daughter's 1988 Mercury Tracer run. The engine is the same as or very similar to the '87-'88 Mazda 323. We have the repair manual for the vehicle and according to the manual, it should be running like a top. I have torn the engine apart and put it back together. No matter what I do, while the engine will crank, it won't start. When the throttle is in the idle position, the injectors do not appear to be spraying the fuel into the cylinder and I believe it should be. Has anyone else ever had this problem with an '87 or '88 Mazda 323. I could use eome usggestions on how to get the car running.

First of all, do you have spark to the spark plugs?

Secondly, if you do have spark, do you hear the fuel pump run during initial key on and during engine cranking?

It would be best to check fuel pressure with a gauge, but if you hear the pump (inside the gas tank) run at least it is trying to establish fuel pressure.

You could quickly confirm spark and that the engine is mechanically capable of running by spraying a SMALL AMOUNT of carburetor cleaner into the throttle body. The engine will start and stall, or at least fire as if it was going to start-- if the only thing you are missing is fuel.