Mitsubishi 3000GT

1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine Stalling When shifting Always

when i was in traffic and i pulled up behind some to stop my car started to shake and felt like it was goin to die. i gave it some gas and it felt fine till it fell back down to idle when it made the rattling sound and like it was goin to die. i gave it more gas and drove it for like 15 more mins and it ran fine. then i pulled into a rest area to check it out and as soon as i pulled into the parking spot and slowed down to stop it just died. i can start my car and i can rev it up but as soon as i try to put it in gear i just dies. its an automatic

also how could you give an estimate on how much this could cost to fix

This is a tough problem to diagnose from here. It seems as if you have good power everywhere but at idle, where it wants to stall. This would indicate that fuel pressure and spark is probably adequate. Possibilities include a vacuum leak as this can cause poor idle. The egr valve could also be hanging open, as this will cause the exact symptoms I've described. Sometimes a piece of carbon will get stuck and cause the valve to hang open. This only applies if the engine doesn't want to idle on its own. You could also have a problem with the idle speed motor.

If the check engine light is coming on there will be a diagnostic code in the cars computer that should help to pinpoint the problem, with a sensor (or by evaluating the sensors reaction to the problem).

The cost to fix is really wide open at this point. If you are going to have a garage diagnose the problem I'll let you know if their diagnosis sounds legitimate. Avoid a bunch of costly 'services' as an initial response from a garage. Ex- Don't let them recommend fuel injection system cleaning for $1+9.99, unless they guarantee their 'service' will repair the problem or is free.

the car was towed to a mitsubishi dealership and they are telling me its the trany but other people i have talked about it with mechs around here are sayin that doesnt sound right and i was lookin online and i found that my year had a recall for a problem:

Defect: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, A CONDITION EXISTS THAT ALLOWS OIL TO LEAK FROM THE ALL-WHEEL DRIVE TRANSFER CASE.

Consequence: LOW OIL LEVELS IN THE TRANSFER CASE COULD CAUSE BEARING DAMAGE AND RESULT IN DRIVE TRAIN LOCKUP, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

Corrective Action: DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE TRANSFER CASE FOR INDICATIONS OF OIL LEAKAGE OR DAMAGE. VEHICLES THAT HAVE OIL LEAKAGE WILL HAVE THE TRANSFER CASE RESEALED AND RE-FILL THE TRANSFER CASE TO THE PROPER LEVEL, OR REPLACED THE TRANSFER CASE IF THERE IS EVIDENCE OF DAMAGE. OWNER NOTIFICATION IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DECEMBER 9, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT MITSUBISHI AMERICA AT [redacted] OR MITSUBMISHI CARIBBEAN AT [redacted] .

and i have been readin other peoples problems with the car and this seems to sound like mine. is there a way to find out if when the 1995's were recalled that my car got taken in to fix the recall or is it there word against mine that it could have not been and this is the problem. Thank you for your help

They would have to show proof the recall was performed. The manufacturer keeps records and all they should need is the VIN (vehicle identification number) to check. If you don't trust the current dealership, call another dealership and ask them to run your VIN number.

1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine   

engine wont idle some times & other times idle is fast and irratic

Most common fault is a failed idle speed control motor. Sometimes it will also burn out the engine computer causing these problems.

is this motor a dealer only item and are tere any censors involved for this problem intermiting

It can be found at some auto parts stores, or the dealer. A failing TPS, or CTS could possibly cause it, but most often the idle motor.

1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

I had the engine bay of my one-owner car detailed for the first time about a month ago. Immediately following the power wash, I began having severe intermittent starting problems. The tech at the dealership ran a diagnostic test, and says it needs a new idle air control motor, computer, computer relay, and pretty soon, new CO2 sensors. The computer has a burned spot on the circuit board. Are my sudden problems the result of moisture from the power wash, or simply due to age and the 125,000 miles on the car? I need a definite answer in order to determine who pays for the repairs. Thanks!

MOISTURE COULD DAMAGED SOME PARTS BUT NOT ALL THAT YOU SPECIFY. I WOULD RATHER THINK THAT, BECAUSE OF THE MILAGE OF YOUR CAR IT WAS DUE A LONG TIME AGO FOR A CO2 SENSOR REPLACEMENT, AS ITS SELF-LIFE IS AROUND 40,000 IN MOST CASES. AS FOR THE DAMAGED IN THE COMPUTER COULD BE RELATED WITH THE CONDITION OF THE LECTRICAL SYSTEMS, SPECIFICLY THE INCREASED AMOUNT OF RESISTANCE IN THE WIRES DUE TO ITS TIME AND MILAGE SERVE. ONCE THE CPU IS DAMAGEG, ALL CIRCUITS RELATED TO IT GET SOME KIND OF NEGATIVE EFFECT, THAT COULD RANGE FROM WRONG VOLTAGE TO AN ACTUATOR TO OPEN CIRCUITS. rEMEMBER THA CPU DEPENDS ON THE REFERENCE INFORMATION THAT THE SENSORS MONITOR AND SENDS TO THE CPU, THRU WIRING THAT IT IS VULNERABLE TO THE WIIRING CONDITION.
I THINK, IF YOU NEED ALL THIS PARTS, I WOULD MAKE SURE THE ELECTRICAL WIRING IS IN PERFECT CONDITION FIRST.

Since the problems started occurring immediately following the detailing I would ignore the last answer you were given, and say that it was caused by the power wash, either by moisture, or the high pressure disconnecting wires, The moisture could still be in connections.

and the dealer is trying to rip you off

Actually, 2 techs at 2 Mitsubishi dealerships gave me that same answer. Assuming they are correct, can one determine which went out first - the IAC motor or the UEC and relay? I understand it's necessary to replace all these parts because they interact and contaminate each other. Would that be important in determining the actual CAUSE of my hard starting problems?

Again, that is my real question, the one that must be answered so this repair can be financed by the responsible party. Are these expensive repairs the direct result of improper detailing at the car wash or should all owners expect these repairs at this age and milage point and anticipate the replacement of these parts as standard necessary maintenance?

By the way, I had had absolutely no prior starting problems, except the usual times I needed to replace the battery. My car always started so easily, I never gave a second thought to starting it. My problems apparently first surfaced in the midst of detailing, as the detailer had to literally push my car from the engine bay cleaning area. He assumed I was out of gas.

ok, thanks for that info, I firmly believe that even though these parts ,eventually if not sooner, needed to be replaced? that the causality was the improper detailing of your engine compartment. I am not currently working for a dealership but have for several in the past, hence my "they are ripping you off" comment. Unless you owned an Enzo Ferrari with a black box that sends detailed information as to the performance of your car, there is absolutely no way to prove one way or another that the break down of these system parts was caused by the high powered wash, BUT common sense is very obvious, the problems happened immediately after having this done and the high powered wash caused these parts to meet their ultimate doom. hope this helps. I believe if you stick to your guns, you should end up with the outcome you are seeking.

sorry I was so vague but no, to my knowledge one cant determine what part went out first, but one can assume that by checking the wiring diagram to find out which part comes first in the circuits? IE the part that runs the other part or vice versa. The first part in the circuit would naturally be the part that went out "first" Its possible that having the car checked out again on a diagnostic machine could reveal these results to you, but depending on who would be ultimately responsible for paying for the repairs (the dealer?) you may not get a truthful answer.

Finally.... your car is a high tech high performance automobile that from what I have read , you have kept maintained at the dealership. Planned obsolescence and breakdown of parts (read: normal maintenance) is to be expected, but with everything that you have written I honestly and firmly believe that was a secondary cause of the failures. The cause of the failures is directly related to the detailing. If I were your dealers service rep, I would try and work out a mutual solution with you , get your car back to proper working condition, and send in the salesmen to try and sell you a new car. You seem like a good customer who just needs to be treated fairly

Okay, we're almost done. To clarify, my engine bay was cleaned by an experienced detailer at a private car wash. The car wash manager and I agreed that, once we established the cause of my starting problems, it would be obvious who should pay for the repairs. In posing my question to you, I intentionally omitted some info to avoid swaying your answer. I wanted to be sure that an experienced, knowledgeable outsider could only come to the conclusion that you made.

We took it to 2 other places before taking it to the 2 dealerships. Because it sporadically started easily, everyone had difficulty determining what was wrong and if it had, in fact, finally dried out and "fixed itself". The dealership techs even had trouble, as the car had to be in the "hard start mode" in order for them to make a proper diagnosis. The dealerships are not part of causing the problem, but they obviously do stand to profit off the repair.

Please, can you tell me more of your background, as I will definately be quoting you. Thank you SO MUCH for your thorough, articulate answers!

I am an ASE certified mechanic and have been for the past 18 years, I have previously worked as lead mechanic at a ford dealership in north central texas, lead mechanic at a nissan dealership in Colorado and now own my own repair shop in southeastern colorado, at which I make just enough to stay online LOL