Mitsubishi Eclipse

2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Engine starts and the cooling fans (both) come on immeadiatelly. the relays in the fuse box start chattering and the engine stops. if the cooling fans dont start when the ignition is turned on, then the engine will start and run until the fans come on again and the relays start clicking, the engine will stop again

2005, do you have any warranty left?

If you have an AutoZone nearby they will loan you a code reader (for a fully refundable deposit) so you can check the trouble codes to see if any are stored in the PCM (computer).

Let me know which, if any, trouble codes you find-- the actual trouble codes designation (Examples- P0401, P0500, etc).

this is a late 94 model although it is a 95 and therefore has dash light codes,there is no code given, the fans run intermitently (both at the same time) and the relays are going nuts, whatever it is effects the spark as I can smell fuel. I have unpluged the water temp sensor and the fuel pump relay and the fans still turn on with the ignition key and the fan relays start clicking this will stop for a few seconds and then start all over again.

any thoughts on whats going on?
Thanks.

Try unplugging the fans (don't allow the engine to overheat though) and see if the problem still exists.

Are the fan relay the only ones clicking?

I unplugged the fans, there was no more relay clicking , the engine would not start, plugged in the fans still no more clicking or fans running, the engine still won't start. Maybe one of the 4 relays on the firewall?
Thanks, Joe.

any ideas on why no start?
Thanks.

At this point you'll have to start at the beginning, in particular order-

Verify the check engine light comes on with key on (as it normally does).

Verify spark to the spark plugs.

Very fuel pressure (at least do you hear the fuel pump run when you initially turn the key On and during engine cranking).

Which is missing?

2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Fuel System   

i just bought a mitsubishi eclipse 2003 with 75000 mileage. the transmission oil is kind of drak brown. do i need to change it as soon as? however it doesn't have burnt smell

This is a greatly debated subject. Is it better to have fresh fluid in there? Absolutely. The only problem is it takes a professional flush to purge all the old fluid from the transmission. So if you do it yourself you won't get all the fluid, although it will be an improvement. Worse case scenario is stirring up junk/gunk in the transmission that travels around and lands somewhere that causes problems. At 75,000 miles this may not be a problem (can never say for sure). I would change the fluid, making sure to use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer.

would it be alright if i have the transmission oil changed at any automotive service?

Changing the fluid is better than changing the transmission.
I always do a two stage flush.
1) Drop the pan and change the filter and any residue in the pan, checking for any metallic particles.
2) Have the entire fluid changed by power flushing.
If you just do the filter part you only change 1/3 of the fluid.
If you just do the flush, you still have a dirty filter
That is why I recommend both.
Modern transmissions have closer tolerances and electronics in them, so clean fluid is important.
90% of trans failures are due to overheating, so if your budget allows it, add an auxilliary transmission cooler.
Most reputable repair shops are capable of doing a trans service, even Midas

2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition System   

Changed plugs and now car only idles after it warms up and runs ruff.

Be 100% sure the plugs are correctly gapped and the plug wires are in the correct order,
Also ensure the coolant temp sensor wire and any vacuum lines are connected. Are you getting a 'check engine' light?

2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

Hello Sir,
I have this Mitsubishi Eclipse 2002 RS. I didn't use it for 3 weeks and the next day when I was driving it the power went off. The battery looks Ok to me. I noticed the ignition fuse was blown up in the front hood. I put in a new fuse and as soon as I cranked it , it blew up again.
I unplugged the alternator and then put it in a new fuse and it worked on the battery. I even drove it.
I took the alternator out and tried to replace it with the new one but when the Napa Auto tested the alternator it worked good.
I really dont know what else to do. I dont know what is causing the fuse to blow. I would really appreciate if you can help me on this.

Thanks
Ami at asingh@commandalkon.com
PH: 205-887-3333

Hello, What engine do you have please? (2.4L or 3.0L)

Roger

I have 2.4 L engine.

Did you reinstall the alternator? Will the car run with the ignition fuse replaced and the alternator unplugged as you described before?

Roger

I haven't reinstalled the alternator yet as they said old one is working and hence I didn't buy the new one. The old one is still with me and I am gonna put it back on today.

Let me see what all is protected by the ignition fuse. I'll try to help.

I'm clear that the alternator is a good one. I'd like to know what happens when the alternator is back on and you start or try to start the engine.

Roger

It will help me if you can tell me the fuse number and size.

Does your engine have a distributor or not? Is the transmission automatic or manual?

Thanks,

Roger

The transmission is automatic.
Moreover last year when I went home to eat from work and started the car, the air condition didn't turn on and so did the cd and I cudn't roll up the windows either (power windows).
I thought some fuse blew up but when in the evening went home everything worked fine. And I didn't even do anything at that time. It got fixed by itself.
I really dont know if my engine has a distributor or not. I can check it and see. Its a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2002 RS.

The event where some electrical items did not work might have been due to low voltage or a relay that didn't energize. Whatever it was fixed itself and we aren't going to chase that as it did not prevent the engine from starting.

There are two wires that run from the alternator to the car's computer that I see on a diagram. They are not fuse protected but the computer is.

It will help me if you can tell me the fuse number and size. There may be some confussion if we have to guess about the engine having a distributor.

Roger

I asked a colleague of mine about the distributor and he called his friend in the mitsubishi dealership and he said its a coil. I dont know if it makes sense ?

I dont have the fuse number with me right now. Its a green color fuse in the fuse box near the battery under the hood. It had a key made on it (i guess which implies ignition). I ll find out today and see what happens when I plug back the alternator.
Is there anything I need to find out?

You're doin' fine. Do you have an Owner's Manual that could identify the fuse?

We'll work it out. You shouldn't need to find anything out. If some one could tell us if there is a distributor or not it would be helpful.

Roger

Thanks a lot Roger. Will get back to you with the owner manual.

All right. I'll wait for your reply. Take your time, allow me some as this is not a live chat.

Roger

2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

I have a 2002 eclipse gt problem I am having is car dying, I can get into it start it up in the morning and if I do not put it in gear it will run forever but when I back it out of garage and put it in drive it dies. It will turn over after this happens but will not start. But like I said if I do not put it in gear it will stay running. Any help with what the problem is would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

First,
Check engine codes,the problem should be recorded in the ECM.
Second
Check engine vacuum hoses,if broken.

Regards,
Peter

Is this something I can check? Sorry not much of a mechanic here. I replaced the battery because someone I know who thinks he is a mechanic said that is what it probaly was but still have the same problem. If I leave it sit over night it will start right up and run forever until I put it in gear and hit the first stop light then it will die and will turn over but will not fire up.

Hi,

I am afraid NOT.This requires some experience working on automobiles.Plus you need a scanner(special diagnostic tool)to retrieve your engine codes.Then you have to understanding the meaning of engine codes.
Best regards,
Peter
ps:Auto technician for over 30 years.

2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   

left front driving lite, most of the time its out . the left front turn lite does not work. when you turn on the left blinker it starts out slow for a bout 2-3 times then goes fast. have changed lite , harness extension.

Hello, Have you determined if the left turn signal when first switched on blinks two or three times and then quits as the flasher starts to click at a fast pace?

Have you verified the ground for the lamp socket? Does the wiring harness appear to have rodent damage or signs of being pinched or fluid exposure?


Please advise,

Roger

the front left lite stays off. the harness was replaced

Do you have a test light or a multimeter to check circuits with?

When you stated that the wiring extension was replaced I wondered if the tests should be done where the new extension connects to the car's wiring harness. Is there such a connector? Hopefully it can be determined if we need power, or ground for the light.

Roger

Wiring diagram shows in the Engine Compartment Relay Box a Front ECU and a ETACS ECU that contains the tail lamp relay plus the left and right turn signal relays.

If you would like a wiring diagram to look at these circuits please tell me your email address and I will send you two pages.

Roger

I would like the wiring pages. [redacted]

Thank you. I will send them to you. Please check your email inbox, spam/junk mail folders for subject line "Eclipse Wiring".

Roger

2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

Our eclipse with 2.4 4 cyl engine has had issues with the cooling sytems. It suck the resevoir bottle dry, but then pukes the cooant back into the bottle, over flowing it and blowing the top off...I replaced the radiator cap, thermostat, temp sender, put new upstream oxygen sensor on it, and a new relay for the radiator fans...It still over flows...Temp gauage stays in normal range...I think this car just hates me!!! Demon Possessed...

After the loss of coolant and the changing of the thermostat, did you properly bleed the system of any any air after refilling? If not, there is a good posibility you have an air lock causing your problem.

yeah, I refilled it according to the book, I know these cars are a pain in the ass when it comes to the cooling systems... I filled it first with the rad cap off, started the engine until it started to circulate, felt the top hose to see if it was warm, it was, which means that the thermostat is open, I can't help but wonder if the new thermostat is bad...Waterpump? Sure would hate to replace that, but???

whats weird is that it wilol suck the bottle dry, and then barf out twice the amount of coolant...

The system needs to be bled closed. Look on or around the themostat housing. There shoud be a bleeder valve much like the one on the brakes. With vehicle running and warmed up, open the valve very slowly to purge any air out of the system. Do this quite a few times untill it runs coolant. Make sure to check the coolant level while doing so.

thanks...I don't recall seeing a bleeder valve but I'll take a look and give it a try...

there isn't a bleeder valve...The engine ran fine for two days, and then started puking out coolant again...It sucks the bottle dry, then pukes it out and overflows the bottle...I spent two hours "burping air out of system...Any thoughts?

You said earlier when yoe refilled the system you waited for the coolamt to circulate. Did you actually see movement of the fluid in the radiator? Are you sure you put the thermostat in correctly? No circulation could be bad waterpump, backward thermostat or both.

thermostat is in correctly, jiggle valve to the top...top coolant hose gets warm which would indicate thermostat is opening, could be water pump or (ugh) head gasket...I hate this car!!! I'm going to try a differant thermostat, and recheck water pump...

If it were a head gasket you would most likely has some leakage on the side of the head or internal leaks(i.e. the exhaust wolud be whiteish and sweet smelling or the motor oil would look brown and chocolatey and possible signs of oil in the radiator. Check for these signs. As for the top hose, yes it will get warm but try this, When warmed up, sqeeze the top hose. If you can squeeze it together, yes the thermostat is open. If you can't its' not. Also, does' the cooilng fan kick in when this problem starts? You say you replaced the fan relay but if the fan isn't kicking in it could be the sensor on the radiator. The pump itself is also a very good culprip also. Not a fun job to change out but doable with a little patience. I "use to" to own a '92 Eclipse and experienced some very similar problems. I went thru all of what I have advised thus far. When all failed and it finally blew the top of the radiator off, I discovered it was the radiator all along. Just one more avenue you may want to explore before giving up all hope. Aftermarket radiator was about $120 from PepBoys. After that, drove the car for another 50k 'till I sold it for the need of a larger vehicle. With the price of gas these days, I really kind of miss filling the tank every week and a half compared to every 5 days.

compression check on each cylinder is 185 psi, just replaced the water pump, no water in oil , transmission, or leaks on side of engine...car runs like the wind...sucks coolant in and out like crazy, bottle was full last night, empty this morning, ran for a few minutes bottle was full to top...constant bubbles coming out of overflow tube in resevoir botlle...maybe a cracked block or head...I wish we had better insurance on this car, I would "loan it" to someone in downtown Hartford...

You will need to have a block test done to determine if combustion gases are entering the cooling system. Call your local parts store and see if they have an inexpensive test kit.

You could also get a tester from Autozone. The tester is a tool that allows you to pressurize the cooling system. If it doesn't hold pressure you have a problem. They will loan you the tool for a fully refundable deposit.

good suggestions...thanks

2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My internal accessories will not come one. My radio and dash clock stopped working as well as my keyless entry, globe light, and sun roof. when car is turned of, no electical devices work to include my windows.

Hello, have you checked your fuses and relays?

I'll look for a wiring diagram. Is this car a Spider convertible?

Roger

i checked the fused and relays. it is a 2001eclipse GS

Multi-purpose fuse #11 (15 Amp), and dedicated fuses #4 & #14 (both 10 amp) power the ETACS ECU in the Junction Block (Behind the left side of the dash) This device controls your door locks, power windows, interior and exterior lights. Also key reminder switch.

Fuses good? I'd start with the ETAS ECU.

Roger

2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

2001 eclipse gs wont start,started out an intermitent problem .never died while running just on the restart,next day or two it would restart and run great for days.now no start at all,if you hit it with starting fluid it will start and cut when fluid is gone. replaced fuel pump ,crank sensor.put on the scanner and no codes come up??????????????helpmy kids makin me crazy!

Hello, Is Dedicated Fuse #13 (20 amp) in the engine compartment fues/relay box good? Have you checked the MFI Relay to see if it is good? (also in the engine compartment fuse/relay box) This is the relay that powers the injectors and the crank sensor.

Roger

2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse Drive Train / Driveline Sticking When shifting When cold

Every winter or sometimes just a very cold day, my car will hardly shift. I have to depress the clutch two or three times. Then as soon as it warms up that afternoon or the next day or the next summer, it's fine. Every mechanic I take it to says the clutch is going out. Why does the clutch come back every summer? I think it's something else. Please help Thank you L

Hello, What engine please? I'm looking into type of clutch used.

Roger

2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 6 cyl. 24 valve if that helps. I don't know what size engine.

Your car has a hydraulic clutch. Depressing the clutch two or three times "pumps up" the slave cylinder to further actuate the clutch release.

There may be air in the system or fluid bypassing the piston in either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. Bypassing fluid does not do work. The compensation for lost work is to pump the clutch and duplicate the work.

Have you inspected the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder for leaks? Is the reservoir full of fluid? Has the air been bled from the system?

Mechanical things work better when they are warmed up. Warmer weather is a head start on getting the transmission lubricant warmed up and there is less drag on the shift synchronizers.

Any help?

Roger

I finally got my car fixed. He said it needed a master cyl, a gasket, fluid and some other things that they always have to replace when the master cylinder is replaced. I hope I didn't get ripped off too much it was like $600.00. :( Then, because the battery was disconnected so long while they did the work, the radio quit working. They told me to take it to the dealership for that. The dealership said it needed to be replaced. By asking around I discovered a code in the owners manual to make it work again. Yay!! Thank you for helping me. Laurie

Laurie, I'm glad your car is fixed. I sure wish I could have kept the cost lower. I'm not clear on what all was done but if you are satisfied and they will stand behind the work this chapter is ready to close.

Stay alert on what you are told when you go in for car repairs. It is frustrating to have a dealer tell you a new radio is needed when entering a code will do the trick. That guy needs training.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button. Thanks very much.

Happy New Year!

Roger

Laurie, Did you receive my last message?

Thanks,

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   

is there a fuel shut off or inertia awitch on these cars?

Let me get a wiring diagram and see what is electrical concerning the fuel system.

What engine please?

Be right back,

Roger

not sure bosses daughter was in a fender bender and she is calling me and dosent have much knowledge but i think its the 4 cyl

not sure if you got my response but my bosses daughter was in a fender bender and i think its just a 4 cyl model

I looked at drawing sets for each the three 4 cylinder models built in 2000.

I do not see a fuel shut off or inertia awitch on these cars.

Roger

2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse Fuel System   

k i got a performance exhaust with 100000 km on drive train, when i punch it screams then the next time it dont have as much power like a hit and miss had new spark plugs ,wires seams to burn a lil oil i was thinking fuel filter but no one nos how to find one and oil could be pcv valve no check lights dont smoke please help.

A good tune up might be an idea. Do a wet and dry compression test to determine where oil coming from.
Eclipse filtere are usually located either on underside of car, passenger side, just ahead of wheelwell, or under hood, on firewall.

if rings where shot check light would come on what price u think to replacevalve seals and i think it did have a tune up just bought it could there be a cheap reason for it using oil

Check engine light would not come on if rings or seals bad. Try to get confirmation if it had recent tuneup.The other alternative would be an oil leak, which you can see.

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Heating / Cooling System   

IF I leave my AC on when I turn the car off, the next time I start the car the A/C will not blow cool air. If I turn the A/C off before I shut the car off the A/C will work fine the next time I start the car

YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE COOLANT ADDED TO YOUR COMPRESSOR IT HAS TO BE NOT ONLY AT A CERTAIN OPERATING LEVEL BUT WHEN THE CAR IS WARM IT AFFECTS THE WAY THE COOLANT IS EXPANDING IN THE HOSES
YOU ARE MOST LIKELY LOW ON YOUR SYSTEM
RECHARGE IT AND ALL SHOULD WOORK WELL
I HOPE THIS HELPS

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

First noticed a few weeks ago, the car idles rough at a stop. Shitting off the AC did not eliminate the problem, but made it less noticeable. I feels as though it is misfiring. Within the last few days, the car accellerates rough. Service light came on recently as result of this issue.

Visit an AutoZone or Advance Auto store and they'll use a code reader to access the trouble codes in your PCM (computer). This will only take a minute to do.

Let me know which ALPHANUMERIC TROUBLE CODE DESIGNATIONS they find, Ex.- P0300, P0401, etc. The number is much more useful than the clerks interpretation of the code.

I took the car to Autozone, they came back with a 0302 trouble code. The unit said the code was misfire in No. 2 cylinder. I replaced the plugs and this appears to have fixed the issue. My only concern is the plugs only lasted about 20,000 miles. When removing them, I inspected them for damage. They all looked acceptable.

Did you use OEM plugs?

The plugs that were replaced were NGK. The new plugs I put in are Denso. Both are recommended replacements.

Get back to me in a few days and let me know if the misfire comes back. Was there any signs of carbon tracking on the spark plug, you may have fixed a bad connection to the plug. Note- occasionaly plugs fail regardless)

It appears the misfire issue has returned. I still don't see any visual indication of a problem when inspecting the plugs.

What about the spark plug wires, assuming your engine has them. These are probably the number one cause of a misfire. Inspect the coil towers for corrosion and the coil body for cracks.

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

I have the GST model and last night going down the interstate at approx. 70mph, the car shut off. Now it won't start and yet it is getting fuel, spark and the timing belt is good.

At first glance this would point to loss of cylinder compression (eg- blown head gasket.) A compression gauge is needed to check cylinder compression.

First thing first though--

Do you have good spark to all cylinders?

When you say you have fuel, does this mean you have checked fuel pressure with a gauge? Confirmed fuel injector pulse (or listened to hear the injectors clicking)?

Yes, there is good spark and friend checked fuel pressure as well. We thought maybe some sort of a module or relay?

Spray a small amount of throttle body or carburetor cleaner into the throttle body or a vacuum hose. If the engine start or momentarily fires you are not getting fuel to the engine (apparently the injectors are not being pulsed OR lost there positive voltage.)

Let me know.

Or "their" voltage.

There is voltage but is it possible they aren't pulsing?

Yes, the negative pulse comes from the computer.

Have you tried to see if the engine will start when primed with a small amount of fuel (carb cleaner)?

No, haven't tried it yet..do I get to access this if I log out and go to the store to get some carb cleaner? How long is my $19.50 good for?

LOL- good question. You sure can return later on, without additional charge.

I assume you will need to enter your username and password to access the site.

Ok, we tried cleaner and also bypassing the cam and crankshaft sensors. Is there a way to manually pulse the injectors? Any other ideas?

Did it start or fire with cleaner?

If not you may need to check cylinder compression.

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups Slipping Happens always Always

What could be cuasing the belt to come off the power steering and air conditioning pully?

This is caused by a few possible things. First the belt is worn out and will not track properly, or the belt is too loose and as the engine rpm increase centrifugal force throws the belt off or finally you pulleys are out of alignment or bent. Your most likely cause it worn or loose belts. Good luck, Al

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

I have an eclpise spyder. When sitting at a traffic light with the turn signal on or when I hit the brakes and the headlights are on they seem to dim and brighten with the turn signal or push on the brakes. Also, occasionally with the CD player on when I hit the turn signal or first turn on the headlights the CD player will stop for a second and then come back on. Haven't noticed any problems when putting the top down.

It sounds like your battery is starting to fail or your ground is loose. I recommend removing the Neg cable from the battery and cleaning then re-install. Drive to an Auto Zone or Napa type store. They will test the battery and Alt for free. You can go from there. If this does not do the trick let me know.. we can go from there. AL

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition System   

Will not turn over when ignition engaged. Have replaced starter, starter relay, clutch engage switch, batt is good. Used to start by holding switch in and pumping clutch but not even that now. Relay is clicking, fuses are good.

You say it used to start by holding the ignition on and pumping the clutchSinice you already replaced most items that would come to question, my next look would be the ignition switch itself and cheking to see if when turned and clutch is depressed if actual power is reaching the starer solenoid.

Thank you....will crawl underneath tomorrow and check for power....damn thing is hell to get to. I'll will let you know and thank you very much.

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

Yesterday the water temp. needle began to read higher and fluctuates. Both fans kick in while idling. Recently the thermostat was replaced and along with some other work, and everything worked good. 165,000 mi. 2.0 4 cylinder GS.

if you are using anti freeze stick with it and make sure that it is topped off.
check your spark plugs to make sure that they are all firing and check the connection to your water temp sending unit on the engine.
when firt warming the engine you should see the temp guage rize and then drop a little meaning that the thermostat is opening
The computer on your car tells the fans when to come on and shut off.
The only way to tell if there is a computer problem would be to scannthe PCM for trouble codes with a code scanner.
I hope this helps

I have driven with these conditions for about 50 miles. I haven't seen any water leaking from the water pump. Can I rule out a bad thermostat, water pump, or anything else?

you cannot rule out a water pump that is going bad or a thermostat
It is all depending on the outside temperature.
The thermostat could be sticking open or closed periodically.

Thank You.

you are welcome

Just checked the garage floor again and found that a few ounces of antifreeze had leeked presumably from the water pump. I hope to get a mechanic to look at it tomorrow.

There is a hole at the bottom of the water pump for the seal that will leak when it goes out and that is a tell all.
If you follow that leak up to the water pump then that would be you problem

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition System   

I have a 1998 mitsubishi eclipse that had blown an engine about a year ago. I ordered a direct factory replacement engine and installed the new engine. We started the car and turned it off several times, and the last time it was started we left it run so new fluids had a chance to cycle through. About 10 minutes of constant running the car just shuts off with no hesitation, rough idling, or any signs of failure. Now the engine cranks but no spark. Swapped crank and cam sensors and still no spark. Coil pack seems to have power running through the lines. What could have caused this and what is my solution to the problem? PLEASE HELP!!!

Make sure the engine is okay mechanically (timing).

Also note if the check engine light comes as when the key turns on. Check all fuses and electrical connections (including grounds)-- this is the most common failure involving no spark after a major repair.

no check engine light is running. Didnt check the timing but it seemed to be ok when the car was orginally running. Someone had mention possible ecu shutdown because the engine blew while driving in gear and may need to be cleared or reprogrammed. Is this true?

Disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute or so will clear the ECU.

Are you saying that the check engine light don't come on when you turn the key ON. If not check the battery cables, fuses, etc.

It would be nice if you could get an OBD2 code reader and check the ECU trouble codes. Autozone will loan you a code reader for a fully refundable deposit.

well we did attempt to check the codes once with one reader it wasnt a top of the line one it was a program that a friend had that plugged into a PDA. I actually just bought one that im going to try and hook up. But there is no check engine light coming on thats the strange part. If it still isnt sending off any codes what else could it be?

If you have a DVOM, set it on A/C volts (low setting) and connect to the crank sensor. Crank the engine and see if you get any voltage (it should average somewhere in the area of 700-900 millivolts.)

Any functional OBD2 (~universal) code reader should read the codes. Were you getting a communication error when you attempted to read the codes? If the ECU is not powering up the car will not run.

yes i was getting a communications error. it was not displaying any codes at all? Is that the issue?

if so what is the quick fix and why all of a sudden did the ECU shut down. Was it to protect the engine? Is there like a restart for the ECU?

That is likely the problem then, it is nice to try another code reader. Also check fuse, battery cables, and GROUNDS (did you by chance forget to hook up a ground on the engine)?

No restart to the ECU, removing the negative battery cable will reset it.

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   Always

What could a short be for my interior lights and radio be? I put a new fuse in and as soon as I turn the ignition switch on it blows. my radio does not work either. It was fine when I came home last night and this morning it blew.

Look for a coin, foil wrapper, paper clip..(any metal) in any cigarette lighter socket. It's a common event.

Please advise..

Roger

No! The cigertte lighter works just fine. It is the interior lightes, dash lights and the radio that do not work.

Has any work been performed on the car recently? Stereo/speaker work (after market upgrades)? When working properly, do the interior lights 'time off' when you shut the car doors? Can you find the timer and unplug it to determine if the fuse works without the timer? (possible shorted timer)

Recent work may have caused a wiring harness to chafe on a metal edge..or a screw might have pierced a harness.

We're trying to eliminate some of the variables here.

Roger

4-21-03. Waiting for your reply..

Roger

I have not been able to look at the car today. Please give me to tomorrow to see. Thank you

Of course! Thank you..

Roger

4-25-03. Have you had a chance to look at the car yet?

Roger

4-28-03. May I please have the courtesy of a response from you?

Roger

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always 

This problem started with the car intermittantly not starting and then curing itself. After a few weeks, the problem became "Hard" and the car failed to start. A mechanic diagnosed it as a failed fuel pump which was subsequently replace. This did not solve the problem. The car is not getting fuel and the fuel pump is not getting power. Any clue?

By chance have you checked the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse panel in the car? Also, there is what is called the fuel pump relay, it is usually under the hood with the MAIN fuse/breaker panel. Usually there are a couple of relays there with the same part #'s on them, try switching one with the fuel pump relay to try. Are you sure that there is NO power to the fuel pump? You can't hear it cycle? Are you sure its electrical connector is on properly? One more thing...just because it is a "new" fuel pump, does NOT mean it can't be defective!!.It could be a clogged fuel filter or even a problem fuel line itself. Good Luck, hope this helps. Let me know if there is any new info. Cheers!!

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always No pattern

I got 97 Spyder, I have no idea what is it doing but sometimes I have to play with the ignition and turn key couple time to crank it. But in general when I turn the key clicking sound comes fron right side and it won't start. Any ideas!!!! thanks

When you say there is clicking sound from the right side you are actually saying the noise if coming from behind the center console. If this is correct, the clicking noise is the ECU. If this is not the location of the noise let me know and we can trouble shoot further from there. Also did the noise just start or has it been an intermitiant problem that is getting worse? Al

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

left turn signal will not turn off, four way flashers operate correctly

Sounds like a bad turn signal switch.

that's what I thought, where is it located?

The switch is built right into the steering column, on the lever which you move. Less than $100 from the dealer.

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

Just bought this car and the Check Engine Light came on.

You will need to have the computer scanned to determine the problem. Autozone and some others give free scans. See what trouble code you have.

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Stalling When accelerating Always

I have a 1997 Mitsubishi eclipse GST the engine will rev just fine until you put it in gear and start driving down the road then at around 2000RPM it starts to bog and cut out. I replaced the O2 sensor and that took care of the check engine light but it still falls flat like stated above. I replace all the spark plugs and they were covered in soot after a few test runs the new plugs are covered as well. Please someone help

I also changed out the airfilter

I also changed out the air filter at the same time the plugs were changed.

YOu need to have the computer diagnostic codes read. Some chain autoparts stores will do this free of charge (Autozone, Partsamerica, Advance, call ahead).

Is there black smoke from the tail pipe when you accelerate?

Yes there is black smoke from the exhaust when you accelerate

Okay, have the trouble codes read at the autoparts store.

It is likely a sensor problem if all plugs were covered with soot.

Well we dont have an auto parts store that will read them so I had to take it to a mechanic I guess we will see what happens

Do you live outside the US?

Nope Im in a small town in Nevada

I have been thinking of getting a Scan tool for myself can you guys recommend one that is reasonably priced that allows you to scan the vehicle, datalog, and reset codes?? Im sure there is other stuff I would want it to do but I cant think of it right now

Would you want a stand alone scan tool or one that connects to your pc? There are some reasonably priced units available for you pc that allow you to monitor & capture live data (there is likely thousands of garages that don't have this capability). If you just want a code reader/eraser there are several available- probably hard to beat Walmart prices unless you try Ebay.

I could go either way I have a laptop thanks

Auto-X-Ray, Equus, and Actron are popular brands. Visit their homepage or view their items on Ebay for a description.

links that may be of interest.

http://www.scantool.net/

http://www.obd-2.com/

http://obddiagnostics.com/

http://www.autocom.se/

Should you purchase a scanner for your laptop, I have a technical site to post that should be of interest (I can't remember it at the moment).

Have you heard anything about auterra?? there site is www.auterraweb.com thanks

If they still have downloadable upgrades free, it looks like a very good product.

There is an article on the web-

http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/auterra/Auterra_Palm_Based_Scanner_Review.shtml

Well the mechanic said it is the mass air flow sensor to start and then wanted to charge me 560 to replace it. does this sound like it could be the problem?? I ordeered one from napa for 200 and it should be here tomorrow screw the mechanic my software will be here in a couple days

The air flow sensor is critical for proper fuel mixture, so yes it can be the problem. This would of been my first guess, but the cost is simply to great to guess that is why I suggested diagnostics first.

If you like to save money, rockauto.com is often the least expensive for new parts.

Did you go with Auterra? I have been watching one of their items on ebay. If it stays reasonable I may pick it up. Not usually the case though, sometimes the automatic bids seem rigged.

In any event save your old maf, it will be a great way to test out your new software. It will also allow you to take some 'screenshots' of how things appear when the car is running fine. This will serve as a great reference if trouble arises in the future.

Oh, 560- wow! I wonder what his cost was for the part.

Im not sure about his cost and he also said he couldnt get one for a week and I got one in a day this is why I prefer to work on my own stuff.I know $230 from napa is much better but I couldnt keep the old one cuz thats the exchange price. I got the software off ebay 199 plus 10 for shipping and I cant wait to get it thanks I will let you know tomorrow what the MAS does

Well the MAS didnt change much any other ideas????

Sorry for the delay,

Have you got a chance to use your scanner?

Yep I used the scanner last night and its not showing any codes Im not sure where to go next???

You need to enter a mode that allows to view live sensor data. Have you done this?

I havent tried that enough but I have tried it do you by chance know what % air flow tha MAS should be seeeing?? I am leaning towards a turbo leak or turbo problem im only seeing 2% max airflow from the mas

Well I found the problem there was a leak to the turbo.. I made a $5.00 leak tester and found the problem right away wish I would have done this about $500.00 ago.. I would also like to let you guys know that www.dsmtalk.com was a bounty of information. and thanks to you for the parts website

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Fuel System Malfunction When accelerating When cold

when i am in the low rpm acceloration and beginning to build boost the car feels like its chugging or being pulled back. under fast acceloration at high boost it backfires i dont know if it is the fuel system for sure. the check engine light is on and its poping a iac valve circut malfunction. would that have anything to do with it.

Do you have the actual troulbe code number to share, it would be nice to know when performing a bulletin check. The code itself likely has nothing to do with problem.

Did this problem come on all at once?

Does it idle okay?

the trouble code is p0505. yes it will idle at low rpm for a while then it will jump to 2500 rpm for a while then drop again.

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

my eclipse has started throwing the serpentine belt off, shredding it in the process. I have an auto shop right down the road, two guys who do really good work. We have replaced all the pulleys and tensioner, new power steering box and harmonic balancer, and its stil shredding the belt. prior to that the timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners were replaced. Any ideas?

What may be overlooked is an accessory freezing up or with bearing damage. Especially concentrate on things that have not been replaced, EG- water pump, alternator, and A/C.

Hi Douglas. Thank you so much for your reply. I love this car, but it hasn't been drivable since January. I will pass this info along to the mechanics who work on my car. Thanks again,
Daniel

Be sure to have them check 'runout of all pulleys (this will confirm the integrity of each component).

Thanks again Douglas. I did some parts price comparisons online, and to replace the rest9 aaaaaac pump, Water pump, and alternator I can do, so I'll talk with Butch and charlie moday am. Thanks again, I do appreciate your advice very much

There is no need to replace all of them, it is just a matter of finding which component is causing the problem.

Thanks again Douglas, I'm just now heading down to the auto shop. My eclipse has a lot of miles on it, 270,000, and I think that the other components may be coming to the end of their functioning life, but again, thanks for the info.
Daniel

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

RE: 1997 2.0L DOHC passenger side motor mount bracket (has 3 bolts and is attached to engine block)... How do you remove and replace this part?

You have to safely support the weight of the engine (raise the engine slightly to take take the weight off the mount) then simply remove the bolts.

This part has LONG bolts and little room....are there any tricks to it?

(not the motor mount itself but the BRACKET that attaches to the engine block with three LONG bolts...

Hello, 2.0L Non-Turbo?

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Remove the accessory drive belts.
3.Remove the power steering pump from the bracket and position it out of the way. Do not disconnect the hoses.
4.Remove the power steering bracket from the engine.
5.Use a floor jack with a piece of wood on it and jack up the engine to take the weight off the engine mount.
6.Remove the engine mount and bracket.

You may find it necessary to raise the engine with the jack until you can get the bracket mount bolts out. Tilting the engine upward will facilitate the bolts coming out at a more agreeable angle.

See if once the bracket bolts are loose from the block you find it easier to remove the bracket and bolts together instead of removing the bolts completely from the bracket before lifting the bracket out.

Don't over do it with the jack...just be careful not to stress lines, wire harnesses, etc. beyond their tolerance.

Roger

Hello? Did you receive my message?

Please advise,

Roger

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Interior Components   

Car is a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. Problem is when it rains my carpet front,back and trunk all get wet. Everything else is dry & cannot figure out how to fix it.

When I have water leak, it is a two man (or woman) job.One inside with flashlight, the other outside with garden hose.The flaslight is for the inside person to look under dash etc.There are many places it can leak, around the glass, the weatherstrip,around the wiper mechanism.Another likely place is the doors.There are drains in the bottom of the doors, and when they plug up, they allow the lower door cavity to fill, untill it comes in.But first you have the guy outsise spray the car.It is best for the person in the car to be small and a bit of a contortionest to crawl iunder the dash!

Thank you i will try out this information on thursday.

I tried out your methods on fixing my vehicle and yes it seemed to work out. Thank you

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1997 Mitsubishi Eclips gs with automatic. I installed reverse glow gauges for the center dash. These work good,but now the rest of the dash lights that are orange don't work. The a/c lights,center console lights and the lights that show the mileage,trip and needles don't light up. I checked every fuse under the hood and under dash but cannot find the problem. note: all gauges function properly. Could this be a bad dimmer switch?

Yes it might be the dimmer switch. Some of the 'Reverse Glow' guages put a bit more load on the switch.You might want to check with the guage mfg and see if it is a re opccuring issue and not just yours.We used to sell APC ones and they had a lot of problems.

Thanks

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My turn signal on my 1997 eclipsestayes on & flashes all the time when the key is turned on. It flashes whether you put the lever left or right. I unplugged the harness from the switch & it still flashes. It does not flash with the fuse is out. Please reply to grumpyelp@yahoo.com

Hi, That's a strange one! Does the car have any after market accessosies installed that control exterior lights such as an alarm?

Please advise,

Roger

The car has a after market( I believe) viper alarm.

Please try disconnecting the alarm to see if the problem goes away.

Roger

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

i have a 97 eclipse gst we just replaced crank-shaft sensor because the small belt at the crank broke and so did the sensor...after replacing both we aligned all the marks on the pulleys for timing and started it up...it started up right away but it ran like timing was off...but it wasn't...it made a small clickin noise at the bottom near the crank but we couldnt figure out what it was, the car just shut off amd we cant figure out what it is...

the car still wont start at all

I would remove the (new) crankshaft position sensor and examine the end, It might be too long and touching moving parts...

if its touching and too long would it cause the fuel pump not to work...and would it cause the engine to run like it was off time

The ecu gets a signal from the cps and it, in turn controls other functions including fuel delivery,Easy to examine the end of the Crank Pos Sensoe for wear/damage.

k well ill try and check that tomorrow...and if it is wearing and touching it what can i do to fix it....will i have to get a new crack shaft pulley that rotates trough the sensor

might be damaged, you will have to look and see. Also check the depth of the next sensor. Some 'offshore' parts are not 100%

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Stalling When driving Always

My 1996 eclipse started stalling while driving. It will usually start right up and I can drive around town around 30 mph for about 30 minutes before the stalling starts. If I take it out on the highway or the higher the mph the faster it will stall. The first time it usually starts right up and I can get a couple of miles before I stall again, each time it stalls I have to wait a little longer to start it back and the distance I can drive between stalls gets shorter until the point where it won't restart for several hours. Then the cycle starts all over. We have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump...now we're not sure what to do next. Any advice?

You will need to do some troubleshooting.
Visit an Autozone or Advance Auto where they'll pull diagnostic codes from the computer (ECU) free of charge. Let me know which troublecodes they find, the actual trouble code designation(s)- ie- P0300.

Beyond troublecodes you'll need to check a few things during the no start-

1. Does the check engine light come on when you first turn the key on, as it normally does?

2. Do you have spark to the spark plugs?

3. Do you hear the fuel pump humming in the gas tank during initial key on and during engine cranking?

I would be quick to check the crankshaft position sensor (CPS)which will cause lack of spark and for restricted exhaust (ie- plugging catalytic converter).

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

Ok I have 1996 eclispe GS M/T. After 2 days of driving the car shut's off and will not stat. At first I was told it was the fule pump by passed the fule pump to the battery(test)/fuled pump worked/car still wont start/looked too see if car was getting a spark and fule injectors working/no spark, no fule injectors/ hooked ECU up too scanner/got nothing/was told need a new ECU/bought a New(Rebuilt) ECU/car still wont start/ok hooked scanner up too New(Rebuilt)ECU/ Scanner reads computer but will not communicate with ECU to tell me any codes/ was told too replace the key that went with the NEW(Rebuilt)ECU/ replaced key and also alarm relay that came with the new(rebuilt)ECU/still car wont start. Its been a month and I would really like to get too the bottom of this problem.

you need to take your car back to a dealer only they can reset your ecu after you replace it it needs to bet set up for your specific make of vechile .They have to do thigns like put your vin in the ecu and other electrical infromation that only a dealer can do usually cost what ever the dealers going shop rate is unless you can find a shop with the software to do this .

So even if I bought the same ECU that had the same serial number on it. It still needs to be programed to the car's vin as well. But will the ECU not allow a spark or even let the fule injectors work and stop the fule pump from working as well.

If the new ECU has the same serial number on it then it should not be a problem when replacing it , Your car should recognize it as if the ECU has not been changed.
The only sensor that will shut down the engine system would be a bad Crankshaft position sensor.
This will shut down the ECM from its functions.
From what you are experiencing this may be you problem, the CPS.

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

Hi guys , i have a 96 Ecplise RS , Auto , non Turbo , i was driving my car today and i could'nt get past atleast 40 .then it starting sounding like it was back firing and sputtering like 10 times and starting shaking like crazy like i was driving a standard with a clutch , then i got going up a hill i would slighty touch the gas and that was fine until i would try to give it more gas and punch it and it would sputter like crazy again and my engine light turned on,total backfiring etc ...thanks

also it sounded like it it was running out of gas . but i do have gas , but i have to explain everything , like when your tank is almost empty and it's sputtering and jumping all around like that ...

Common faults on that car that cause those symptoms: Failing computer (ECM), failing ignition module, failing crank or cam sensors.

well everyone that i have talked to about this said it could be the fuel filter or fuel pump..and told me to throw in injector cleaner . because my fuel filter has not been changed and has never had fuel injector cleaner in it also ...so what do u think ..

It could be. It is certainly easier to make a diagnosis with the car in front of me instead of by e-mail.

By all means, change the fuel filter, it needs to be done anyways. Injector cleaner is cheap and easy and will not hurt. Before changing a fuel pump, I would want to get a fuel pressure reading. If it is low under load after a fuel filter is changed, then the pump is likely the fault.

My thoughts were based on losing spark under load, but your description could also be losing fuel pressure.

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

I have a 1996 Eclipse manual non turbo. Lately my car will stop on me when I'm at stop signs. Dies out. Also while driving on highway it will basically jerk loses power, when i press gas it wont accelerate, then it jerks back in place and then drives.

Hello,

Does the check engine light come on at anytime while the engine is running?

Also, when was the last tune-up which includes spark plugs, wires, fuel/air filter, and throttle body cleaning?

Yes the check engine light is on. I had tune up done last year ohh around May. That would be the spark plugs, fuel filter. Never had throttle body clean done. It seems that I have to keep my foot on gas at a stop light or car goes dead. But I can be on highway going 75 mph and it all of a sudden will sputter with no acceleration at all. Sometimes I have to put it back into nuetral then back in gear.

Okay, what I want you to do is visit an Autozone and have them check the fault codes (free service). A fault codes is stored in the vehicles PCM (computer)whenever the check engine light turns on.

Let me know the alphanumeric code designation they find, example P0300, P0401, etc. The code designation is much more useful to me than the clerks interpretation of the code which can be misleading or flat out wrong.

Some other stores such as Advance Auto check the codes for free too. Call ahead.

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Fuel System Stalling Happens sometimes 

MY 95 Eclipse is stalling every time i don't supply it gas. As soon as I put the car in neutral to slow down, the RPM plummets and eventually bottoms out. And this happens in idle or as soon as i start the car as well. So far I've had the IAC cleaned, spark plugs replaced, fuel filter replaced, but it hasn't solved the problem. PLEASE HELP!!! What could be wrong with my baby???

Hello, I hope I can help.

From what you describe has been done so far, may I suggest you inspect all the vacuum hoses with a bright light and a mirror? You are looking at both ends of each hose for splits that would cause a vacuum leak. The mirror is to see the full circumference of each connection to be sure you don't miss a thing. Look at the route each hose takes for heat damage or wear from contact with a moving linkage or like device.

A vacuum leak is a possible cause...does the check engine light come on while the engine runs and before it dies? What engine do you have and how many miles are on it?

Roger

sorry.. that wasn't the problem.
turns out there was something wrong with the computer part that was signaling the IAC or somethin....
thanks for trying, though.. :(

I'm glad the problem is fixed. I wanted to try the inexpensive things first.

Thanks for the chance,

Roger

Ready to close this one out? You can sure contact All-Parts if you feel you need your money refunded. My feelings won't be hurt. The six days I waited to see how things were going toward this repair left me out of touch to help you. Sorry, Sir.

Roger

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Stalling When idling When cold

idle is low (below 1rpm) cars check engine light is on but guy at shop says probably a faulty gas cap??? i have never heard of that! but the car will stall when first started until you drive for about 20min. then, most likely ok...but not always. the idle screw seems to look too short.... the throttle doesnt even hit it.cant i just change the screw to one that is long enough? if i sit there and hold the throttle with my hand where it should be....it runs perfect.

An idle speed motor controls the idle. The idle air valve pintle and its passageway get carbon/dirt build-up over time and this alone can cause the problem. Cleaning the throttle body, throttle blade, and its passageway will sometimes fix the problem.

You said the check engine light is on- so you need to find out what trouble code is stored in the ECU (computer). Let me know what trouble code is found. Autozone stores will usually access the trouble codes free of charge.

BTW- Guy at shop said probably a gas cap? There are trouble codes for evaporative emmissions that can trigger when the gas cap is bad or the engine is ran while the gas cap is loose or removed. He assumes your car has a vapor recovery system monitor, it is at a year where it may or may not (In 96 they had to have it by law).

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

I have a 95 gst and when I started upgrading the intercooler and i.c. piping I noticed that there was oil in the intake side of the piping. The car also smokes a little when I start it, I figured this maybe valve stem seals but now I think I might need to replace pistons and rings. Also I noticed when the car is running that the exhaust cam gear is bent. Someone told me that the head is more than likely worn out. He told me that it is a known problem for the front cam to wear out the head on the cam gear side I was wondering if you heard of this before.

I'm not quite sure how you have determined the cam to be bent with the car running. Oil in the intake my be due to a clogged crankcase ventilation device(PCV)valve. As the former owner of a '94 Eclipse with a DOHC engine, if the head is worn out, yes you would get smoke and rough running conditions but you would also have other noticeable problems with the vehicle. If you mean the cam is bent due to a wobbling pulley, then its possible a cam gear bushing is worn. I wouldn't automaticaly say the head was shot unless a new bushing could not be seated in it. Also, check your oil for any contamination. You don't state what color the smoke is that the vehicle emits. If its' black, oil is being burned. White is a possibility of fluid in the system. If it a blueish/white, and it is excessive, then yes I would suspect an air to fuel mixture that could be sublect to the valve train.
Good Luck,
Paul

I can see the exhaust cam wobbling when the car is running.My friend told me that their isn't a cam gear bushing that the cam just sits in the head. I've never heard fo this before but I haven't had time to disassemble it yet. Also the car has a bad ticking in the head at idle if you raise the idle it stops, is this a lifter problem. The smoke is a grayish black color. In your oppinion would I be better off just buying a rebuilt head for $450 or could I have this one rebuilt cheaper.

I'm not sure where your friend gets the notion that a cast iron cam runs in direct contact with any metal. Yes there has to be some type of bushing or bearing to eliminate wear. The ticking is most likely coming from valve lash due to the cam. As far as the rebuilt head, I would probably check to see what the cost of having the head that is on the vehicle looked at to see if it could possibly be machined. You may find the costs in the same neighborhood so that has to be a call you would have to make. The smoke by discription to me is oil being burnt.Again, make sure to check for proper crankcase ventilation. If you are going to go this far in the repair, I would also suggest that the timing belt be throughly inspected for any signs of wear.(If the cam has been wobbling for some time,it's possibile it damaged some "teeth" on the belt)Make sure to change out your oil and filter with a good quality oil. My vehicle had over 200,000 miles when it was given to me and I immediatly put in an oil designed for high mileage vehicles. I also added an oil additive. Check your local parts houses, I used to get a boxed oil change kit with the additive at a decient price.
Good Luck,
Paul

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Hesitating When shifting Always

I have a five speed eclipse gs. It has 122,000 miles on it and last week i noticed that when i am stopped and begin to pull out it "shudders" or hesitates like it is going to stall, i give it more gas and shift but each shift to the next gear brings more shuddering, like it is going to stall.

Sounds like you may have a problem with the pressure plate, throwout bearing or clutch plate. If any one or a combinatiom of them is not releasing properly, it will cause the motor to drag. Also check the slave cylinder for any signs of leakage. If it is leaking, it my not be engaging the fork to the pressure plate properly. If no leaks, there may be a slight adjustment on the rod extruding from the cylinder to the fork. Doing this may give you a few more miles but if it comes to this point, its time to have the tranny checked for the above mentioned items.
Good Luck,
Paul

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Won't Start  

I have 95 mitsubishi eclipse, I can not get it to start, it will turn over, but not start, I thought it was the timing , so I change the belt even though nothing was wrong, with it, and I did notice that the timing was off just by a hair, but I fixed it, I also, changed the plugs, wires, water pump, and cam/crank sensor, , but i am getting a little fustrated, I don't know any other option of what it might, the car does have over 120,000 miles on, and its a 2.0 liter non turbo, if you have any ideas, of what the problem might be, please let me know , Thanks, Jaime

Jaime,
Do you have fuel pressure? Do you have strong spark at the end of the plug wires?
Dale

yes i have spark, and there is fuel up to rail,but i can test, what is the psi suppose to be ? jaime

48psi non-turbo. 44psi turbo when cranking. Also check if there is injector pulse. Which engine do you have?
Dale

I'm still not sure what my psi is yet, I am waiting for the stuff to check it with, witch will be tuesday, but the engine is a 2.0 dual overhead cam, non turbo. jaime

OK

The fuel injection was 46 psi, we tested the fuel injectors for a pulse, and they all tested fine. We did a compression test on all cyclinders, and all cyclinders ranged from 32-35 psi. i would like to know if that is a normal range for the cyclinders, and if it is normal, do you have any other Ideas of why the car is not starting?

The compression should be 130-150psi. Your problem is Definitely with the compression.

Wow I guess so,, WHat would cause the low compression, how do I fix that? Thanks Jaime

First, make sure your timing belt is installed properly, with the marks all at the right places. If the timing belt is off as much as 1 tooth it will affect the compression. 6 teeth off will bend the valves. If it is installed wrongly, it can bend valves.

If the belt is right, set a cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and do a cylinder leak down test. (this pushes air inside the cylinder and then you check to see where it comes out) If it leaks out the radiator, blown headgasket. If it blows out the oil dipstick, bad rings. If it goes out the muffler, bad exhaust valve. If it goes out the air filter, bad intake valve.

You can test each cylinder individually, and then will know how many parts to buy.

Thank you very much for all your help, It looks like we have some work ahead of us. Sounds like we should just buy a whole new engie,it would be just as much work. But we'll see, I would like to be able to get ahold of you speificly , if I had any other questions. Is this possible? Once again Thank you Jaime

Jaime,
You can e-mail me direct at [redacted]
Dale

Thank you dale, We will test the parts,when we get the parts to do it with, if i have more question, I will email you. Thanks again, Jaime

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

Hi! I have a 95 Eclipse GS and just had my engine rebuilt after broken rod bearings. I replace the crank,rods, bearings, etc. I got the car back and expierenced it stalling randomly. The mech ran tests(got codes) and replaced the parts that caused the codes. My car still stalls but only during right/left turns.
Please help, the car returns no codes when hooked up to the computer, my mech is stumped, and I have no transportation to and from work.
Thank you 4 your time.
Dan

These can be very very difficult, especially after so much work was done.

The first step should be what is called a wiggle test. With the engine running pull/wiggle/etc on wiring harnesses. What you are trying to do is recreate the stall caused by the normal engine/trans/body flexing while making turns.

Beyond this it'll take a road test to see if the fuel pump is losing power.

Never overlook bad connections,grounds, battery terminals, etc.

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

Well I have a problem sounding similar to a bad tps sensor when i give it gas when it is cold it tends to jerk and chug like it is not getting gas and it dosent do it all the time when it is warm but still tends to sometimes i was wondering if the fuel pump or fuel filter was bad before i spend alot of money or repairing something

Elec fuel pumps usually work or don't work. Nothing in between.A filter change is a good idea.This time of year, there is comonly excessive moisture in the gas and when the engine is cold the gas has a harder time atomizing than when the engine is warmed up, hence the stumbling when cold.If your fuel tank has a drain plug, drain 100% of the gas.Fresh gas, some injector cleaner and a new filter would not cost too much.

so you dont think it would be the tps sensor at all

If it were the tps sensor, it would behave the same cold or hot.

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems   

JUMP STARTED THE CAR WITH CROSSED CABLES. 100 AMP. MAIN FUSE WAS BLOWN. REPLACED ALTERNATOR AND FUSE STILL BLOWS, QUICKLY.

Check your main cables, the one from the battery to the solenoid (and at the solenoid) and from the alternator to the battery. You have a major short to blow a 100 amp fuse.

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

car dies like once a week, short or long haul. Car will not start back up until the engine light comes on, (when ignition is in start posistion),once the light comes on car starts back up like nothing happened. tried obd2 it said there was no trouble codes available. I just replaced both oxegen sencors but problem still happens, what next? tps cps

Usually a TPS or other sensor will set a code.First thing I would do is determine if it is a computer/injection/sensor issur or a fuel issue.When the next no start happens , do a quick check for fuel and for spark. An erratic fuel pump could cause those symptoms as well as a crankshaft position sensor, or a faulty ignition switch

1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start  Always

I have a eclipse and bought a new battery and changed alternator but after sitting overnight it was dead again. Charged it up again and checked connections and could not find a short but the power seems to be drained with everything off! Any suggestions, please?

Also, I what to pull 1.8 liter engine and drop in a 4g63 2.0 dohc engine, would that fit in the regular eclipse without changing the transmission?

Lets cover the easy problem first. You did not say if the replacement alternator was new or not. I have replaced alternators that were bad. Here is what I recommend for that.... charge the battery and take the car to a local Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts.. they will test the battery and charging system free of charge.. will let you know. Also if the battery and alternator is 100%, then you have something in the car that is staying on when the battery is turned off... most common is glove box light, cig lighter, brake lights or interior lights (all do not need key to be on) or someone installed aftermarket stereo improperly and the radio is drawing the system down.
Now to the more dificult issue... to do the engine swap will require the following. 2.0 engine and the tranny, eng and tranny cradle, wiring harness, ECU, larger exh system (the 2.0 is larger) possibly the hood if the "bubble" is not there (some 1.8 cars came with "smooth" hoods). I recommend that if you want a car with a 2.0 .. just buy one.. they are getting cheap enough. It will cost you more to do the conversion than to buy a replacement car. Hope this helps. AL
PS, I have been working on DSM cars since 91. This is not an off the hip answer.

1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Making Noise  

A clicking noise is coming from under the hood. No loose parts that I can see. But after a few minutes of idling the noise goes away. Then when I rev the car the noise comes back and then goes awayafter a minute or two. Always make the noise when there's a significant change in the revs. Seems to happen when my car is sitting still or moving. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

This is a sign of lifters that are beginning to fail. This is a problem that all the DSM engines are having. It will only effect your engine at high rpms. A good flush of the engine oil will help then go to a higher viscosity oil .. Let me know if you need more. Al

1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Malfunction When idling When warm 

runs o.k. most of time, but occasionally idle gets rough then loses power, barely moving at full throttle for several minutes, then regains power and runs normally for days or weeks before repeating with the loss of power. Dealer cannot find anything wrong.

Al said that the ISC would be reset when the engine was turned off. I have not turned it off when it loses power, I just keep giving it gas while it limps along for a few minutes, then engine eventually regains power. Could the ISC motor be stuck and then reset without turning off the engine?

The answer to this is yes.. What I meant is that when you shut the engine off the ECU resets the ISC. To verify if your ISC is working at all.. find the unit on the throttle body.. put your finger on it and have someone turn the key to the ON position and you should feel a slight clicking.. the ISC is resetting.. The ECU at times will adjust the ISC position to maximize your power and fuel economy.. but if the ISC is failing it gets stuck in the more open position and your engine starts to run lean (and like junk)... then the ECU realizes there is a problem and keeps sending a signal to the ECU to reposition.. eventually it gets unstuck (is that a word?) and the car settles out.. A good source of an ISC motor is EBAY or go to www.dsm.org .. they have a parts for sale area. Al

I believe that your problem is with your ISC motor. This component is a stepper motor and when they start to fail get stuck in the wrong position... Allow too much air into the engine and while the engine is at idle it runs like junk.. then you shut the engine down and the ISC resets.. problem may or may not go away... there are no codes for the ISC and the problem is intermittent.. good luck and if you want more info.. just ask.. Al

What is ISC? I do not have the turbo engine.

ISC is the Idle Speed Control. Located on the lower left (fire wall side) of the throttle body. It is held in place by 2 8mm screws. It has a cable attached to it with either 3 4 or 5 wires. The ISC is used on the 1.8, 2.0 and 2.0 turbo..More questions? just ask..AL

Coils check o.k. on ISC motor, all show 35.6 ohms.
If going bad, wouldn't one of them show a different reading? Are there any other tests to show whether motor is good?

This is correct.. unfortunately the item that controls the ISC is the ECU.. here is a really unconventional test to try.. with the car running... smack the ecu with your hand .. if the engine stumbles you have found you problem.. if not then I can scratch my head some more.. Let me know either way.. Al

1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse Drive Train / Driveline   

i have an 93 AWD turbo eclipse, the outer bearings went bad and the axle stub is un-usable as well, 1st question is it called an axle stub and bearing housing or is it something else? 2nd question do you have the parts as an assembly and how much would you charge? thank you for your time sincerely kerry baran

Axle hub/bearing assembly is the term you are looking for. I don't sell parts. To request prices contact vendors on the left side of this screen under-

'Wholesale Direct'

and

'Auto Recyclers'.

Let us know if you need more help.

1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

With vehicle at idle, trans in neutral, Engine vibrates between 2000 and 3000 smooth before 2000 and smooth after 3000 , this is with the car going down the road or parked. Any ideas?

If you are saying the engine vibrates at the rpm's you mentioned or that the idle osciallates that high on its own. If the engine vibrates (but idles normall) I would start by testing the TPS (throttle position sensor).

Let me know if you get a check engine light while the engine is running.

No at idle I manually run RPMs up to 2000 and that is when the engine starts to vibrate and then smooths out at 3000

Okay, hopefully this is the TPS. Be sure to inspect the electrical connector. Some autoparts stores will let you compare ohm reading on your sensor to a new one- before you buy. Some will do it for you, call Autozone or Advance and see if they offer free testing on the sensor.

I already know it is not the TPS , I have already been that route. I Was thinking maybe Balancer shaft belt , motor mounts, Bad flywheel????????? the TPS sensor will give you a high idle and loping of the engine.

Sometimes a misfiring engine will be described as a vibration. It seems you have clearly established a difference.

For a purely mechanical vibration I'd start with the harmonic balancer (sometimes you can visibly see these vibrate- use extreme caution around moving engine parts). A bad motor mount is possible, but likely to show up on acceleration or deceleration also. Bad flywheels do cause vibrations on occasion, but I'd rule out everything easier to get to first.

Also make sure no part of the exhaust is causing the vibration, easy to mistake for noise elsewhere in the vehicle.

1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When accelerating Always

The car is vibrating when under acceleration but seems to quit when coasting. I found a tear in the axle boot but there is no clicking or noise when I turn. Could this be a bad axle??

The torn boot is a very bad sign. It only takes about 15 seconds at 60 mph to spin the grease out of the CV joint. This might be your vibration or it could be from a motor mount. I say that because the problem does not bother u when the car is at speed but is not accellerating. Replace the CV and the inner seal.. thenlet me know if the problem is still there.. I will tell u how to test the motor mounts.

1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse Drive Train / Driveline   

I Have a 92 Eclipse GS. The car drives well until it gets warm than the transmission seems to stop working. The car will die and restart but when you put it in gear nothing happens or it takes a lot of RPM to get it moving .

If all of your fluids are up then you would want to have the Tranny serviced or do it yourself and drop the trans oil pan check to see if there is a lot of metal chips on the bottom [a small amount is normal]
make sure that you change the trns filter very important as it is probly getting clogged with debris.
I hope this helps

Can you recomend a good manual?. The one I have doesn't cover automatic transmissions. Also what would be the worse case scenario?. Thank you.

The worse case would be that you have blown seals in the Tranny
But I think that a good transmission servicing and a flush could clear up the problem you are experiencing

1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition System   

Car cranks but no spark. Replaced dist, which has coil, crank sensor and power transistor built in on this car. 1.8 L. Still no spark.

Does the check engine light come on? Are there any codes on the computer? I have seen failed computers cause this problem. Is the computer burnt internally?

Bought car not running. Engine light on when key on would go out after few seconds. Cranked it a few times them light would not come on with key.Checked crank sensor first seemed to test bad. Replaced dist. cause these cars have the crank sensor inside along with coil and power transistor, figured it would take care of all that.
When I plugged the dist. in the light came on with the key and went back out after few seconds as norm. cranked and no spark and the light does not come on with the key again.
As for the ECM using pins 1 and 12 gives me nothing should give me constant high if bad, i think. and pins 2 and 12 give me a steady pulse i should get for a "normal state". Not sure what this means and if I should get that from those pins.

You obviously have power and ground to the computer.

Check for injector pulse. No spark AND NO injector pulse is usually the ECM. If missing pulse and spark, the fault must be in either the crank sensor/circuit, or the computer, or multiple harness problems.

No spark but has pulse is usually the distributor.

I just now opened the ecm and it seems like some of the solder con. near the center of the board at a large black "do-hickey" (sorry not much on the internals of these things)do seem discolored along with a couple other connections around that thing. Compared to the rest of the connections on the board which all look new.
But I got that ecm "normal state" pulse even though it was on the wrong pin. I thought I read the pin layout wrong. That's why I didn't go to the ecm right away.Any idea on that? And the engine light not coming on when you turn the key on? Even though it did a couple of times.

There was somethig living under the hood near the battery. So I did check the wiring carefully and did't see any signs of damage. All the wire wrappings are good and I took apart all connections checked them cause I suspected oxidation from sitting so long and they all look good.
Would you suggest replacing the ecm at this point?
Since I have the ecm out is there a way to check it other than the diognostic port. The book I have does not have any procedure for the ecm just R&R.
And do you think the ecm would damage the dist. components? If is bad.Hate to replace again. Parts for these not cheap.

I would assume that having replaced the dist. would take care of the other possibilities. I am getting fuel. Plugs getting wet and can smell fuel.Injectors might need cleaning. Had 5 yr old fuel in it which I drained using the pump so that works. The car sat that long after it stopped running and I just bought it cheap to see if I could fix. than that it has low mileage and very good condition.
Sorry for the long responce.
Thanks Vic

OK Vic,
Unplug the tps and see if you have 5v on the green/red wire with the key on. If not, either a shorted sensor, harness or ECM. If OK, I would like to confirm injector pulse with a noid light or a meter. If OK
let's try to find out what is going on electrically. The distributor should be part #T6T57371. There should be 2 connectors to the distributor, one with 2 pins and one with 6 pins. The red wire on the 2 pin connector should have 12V with the key on. On the 6 wire connector, the 2 black wires should have a good ground. The black/white wire should have 12V with the key on. Using an oscilloscope, or high digital multimeter, you should have a 0-5v pulse on the green/yellow wire. This is the signal from the computer to the power transistor.

This all seems to point to ecm. I'm getting battery voltage where suppose to but not getting any 5 volt or voltage toggles where suppose to. The only thing bothers me is the CAS test I first did that made me replace the dist. because it tested bad.
I'm using a Haynes manual and following it's test procedures for no spark. It has no procedure for a CAS test. Online help says to test this way. I hope you can tell me if this is correct because i get the same results from my new dist which would mean it's no good also.That's why I asked if the ecm could damage the dist. components if it was bad)

Test as follows.
Set top dead center.
Pull dist.
On bench, Apply voltage to pins 5 & 6 on the 6 pin connector
Spin dist by hand
Pins 3 & 4 should toggle 5v
Which neither of my dist. do, at pins 3 & 4 I read voltage applied and no toggle

You can do this in car but you have to probe back of harness and crank engine. Which is dificult to do by yourself thats why I pulled the dist

And also when I crank engine plugs gettinng wet and can smell gas coming from exhaust But my injectors are not cliking when I crank the engine.
I did unplug my tps and did't get the 5v on green/red as you said.

I did order an ecm and hopefully that will do it.
I'll let you know. Should be here tues.

The missing 5v signal on the TPS is a good giveaway on the computer. The only other things that can kill the 5v is the 5v signal shorted somewhere, or power missing to the computer. Since you have the check engine light, your power should be good.

I would do this first, then see how the distributor works.

Ok I replaced the ecm and now I have my 5v at the tps
don't have my 5 v pulse at the green/yellow on the 6 pin connector on the dist. but i have 5v at other sensors i'm suppose to have. have 12v to where suppose to I think cause I'm getting lost in this manual.
My injectors are getting 12v.
Would the fuel pump relay cause no spark?

I always assumed pump was good cause I drained the tank using it. But after trying the fuel check the pump only runs if I bypass the relay and the relay does have power but has 128 ohm of resistance where book say 95 ohm. Pump does run using jumper to the pump test plug but has no power at the connector w key on. So i would assume the relay is bad.

Any further testing you can think of.
Guess this thing has multi problems from sitting so long.

Sounds like GOOD progress!
Now the fuel pump...It runs only when the computer turns it on. That should be when the starter is cranking and again when it sees RPM signal from the distributor. Check your inputs to the MPI relay. Pin 4 Brown, hot all the time. Pin 7 Black/yellow hot when cranking. Pin 8 Black/white, hot with the key on and when cranking. Pin 6 Black ground. Pin 1 black/green fuel pump output 12v when pump should run. Pin 3 Red power (12v) to computer. Pin 5, White/red ground signal from the computer to keep the fuel pump on. Pin 2 Yellow/white power out to the injectors.

This 8 pin relay gives power to the computer, fuel pump, injectors, and air flow meter. You have power at the injectors, check for power at the pump test plug when cranking. If OK, leave the relay alone and lets look back at the distributor and computer again.

I would like to confirm injector pulse with a noid light or a meter. If not OK, then the crank angle sensor or computer are giving the problem. If OK, let's try to find out what is going on electrically. The distributor should be part #T6T57371. There should be 2 connectors to the distributor, one with 2 pins and one with 6 pins. The red wire on the 2 pin connector should have 12V with the key on. On the 6 wire connector, the 2 black wires should have a good ground. The black/white wire should have 12V with the key on. Using an oscilloscope, or high impedance digital multimeter, you should have a 0-5v pulse on the Brown/yellow and Black/blue wires. This is the signal from the distributor to the computer. (5v comes from the computer and is grounded intermittently by the distributor)

Will try all this info you sent . But the pump relay checks out ok other than the resistance diference but should be close enough. I have power to pump at pump terminal while cranking. Didn't try your other test to pump relay yet.

Checking timing to make sure. Is the #1 plug closest to dist? and how can I tell I'm not 180 out of time? Would this efect spark? I would think so for crank sensor. I even pulled valve cover to check valves open but find hard to tell the difference.

Another question. When you say pulse do you mean 5v to 0v or 5v steady?

Number one spark plug is the one nearest the timing belt. Wrong timing will not affect spark. There are marks on the crankshaft pulley that can be set to TDC. At TDC, either #1 or #4 cylinder will be at the peak of the compression stroke. This one will have the cam lobes almost opposite from the rockers/lifters.

By pulse, I mean the voltage will toggle back and forth from 0V-5V. This toggling may be quick, milliseconds. If you only have regular multimeter, try using dwell or duty settings, or if you do not have them, use A/C voltage. You should get 2-5V on the A/C scale. If you have a tach in the car, see if it moves at all while you are cranking.

Ok here we go did as you said I have done other tests per Haynes manual but seems to have me chasing and not getting it.

MPI relay: pin1 12v cranking, pin3 12v key on &cranking, pin5 12v key on & cranking, pin2 12v key on and cranking.

Injectors: Resistance in paramaters. at 2 pin connector getting 9.5v with key on. Note: bat. at 12v.
Don't have a noid light but with the meter it does fluctuate like something is happening but I don't hear them clicking while cranking but plugs get wet while cranking.

Dist: 2 pin connector 12v w/key on
6 pin w key on blks gd ground, blk/wht 12v, brn/yel 8v, blk/blu 8v.
With harnes plugged in and probing back while cranking this is what I get.
brn/yel Test light flashes, A/C scale all over btwn 2.4v-3.6v, D/C scale all over btwn1. 9v-3.8
blk/blue test light flashes and the other scales pretty much do the same digital meter gues cant keep up with it. They both using resistance do show going from an open to about 24 ohns but erratic.

Grn/yel you say is from computer to power resistor I get nothing. cranking or key on.

I had also mentioned way back that my "service engine light" did not come on anymore with the key even though it did at one time when I first got car and then again when I installed new dist. But after cranking few times the light stopped coming on.

I did replace ecm with a used one out of runnig car so I was told guy on ebay guarantee or would replace.Close to me so not a problem.All numbers match on it but is a 5spd. Mine is auto. told no difference as long as numbers match.Is this true?

If this makes any sence to you let me know I don't know where to go

Auto and stick used the same computer 159562 for California emissions or 159561 Federal.

I am assuming you did all these tests by backprobing with the relay connected.

Grn/yel you say is from computer to power resistor I get nothing. cranking or key on. THIS IS THE MAIN PROBLEM AND CAUSING THE NO-SPARK CONDITION.

Lets determine if it is the ECM or distributor. With everything connected, key on and the distributor cap off, check for spark from the coil when you backprobe the green/yellow wire with a test light connected to 12V. As you tap the light to 12v, you should get spark from the coil. If not, see if the test light lights. If it lights, disconnect the computer, if it still lights, look for short between computer and distributor. If no spark, and no light, the distributor is faulty (igniter or coil). If you have spark, then the computer is not sending the signal. Disconnect the computer and use the test light on pin 54 to check for spark. If no spark now, broken G/Y wire between ECM and dist.

Since the plugs are getting wet, we can KNOW the computer is getting RPM signal. The only thing left to check on the computer is the powers and grounds. Check these at the computer by back probing and take voltage readings while cranking. 10-12v pins 102, 103, 107, 108, 109. Ground (less than 1/2V) 101, 104, 106. If these are OK, then I would condemn the computer (although it is better than the first one)

Future issues: The computer should solve most of these.

Dist: blk/wht 12v, brn/yel 8v, blk/blu 8v.
THIS IS A PROBLEM. The computer is to put out only 5v. Unplug the distributor and see if it is still 8v. If so, I would condemn the computer.

"pin5 12v key on & cranking," THIS IS A PROBLEM. The computer is supposed ground this when then engine is running or cranking.

Injectors: 2 pin connector getting 9.5v with key on. THIS IS A PROBLEM. This is fed directly from pin 2 at the relay. If the voltage is 12 at the relay but only 9.5 at the injectors, there must be a partial break in the wire, or bad connection.

Only did one test to determine comp. or dist. At this point I beleive this is another bad computer. Mostly want to know about dist. Since the computer would address most of the other issues.

Key on, cap off, and all connected: Using car battery for power Computer plugged in get light but NO spark
Computer unplugged get light and YES spark.
At pin 54 g/y at computer harness unplugged get light and spark.
Unclear on your description. Since I get the light does that mean I have a short.
Would hate to put computers in and be burning them up.

also did this now.
pins 102, 103, 107 key on 12v, cranking drop to 10v
pins 108, 109 key on 0v, cranking 10v
pins 101, 106 key on ground, ground while cranking
pin 104 key on ground, 12v while cranking, THIS IS A PROBLEM correct?

Yes,
This is a problem! The wire harness ground BLACK wire splits to pin 101, 106, 107. If your voltage is going to 12V, on any of them, correct the grounding first and see if the computer will cooperate now. (If all the inputs are good, but it will not give the right outputs, then the computer is bad.

Good news, the distributor is good! If you have spark, then the wire is good as well. your fault lies in the computer, or its inputs.

Seems like were getting there you've really been big help. I've gone over all the wiring in this car and can't see anything wrong. Tested grounds I know how important they are to electronics and are good. I opened this computer even though they do'nt want me too and found a burn't capacitor "black dohickey".Getting a full refund except for shipping

How would I test the CAS while back sent you a procedure I got online from a help forum and tested it and failed. This is why I replaced the dist right away. But my new (remaned) one also fails the test. Can you help me out with that one. Every car I redone with fail to spark has always been the CAS.

New computer on the way NOT used. screw the used ones. The computers on these seem to have reliability issues.

Thanks Vic

You will need to repair the ground to pin 104. The problem is in the harness, probably at a taped splice. Simply wire it to one of the other grounds, like pin 106 harness.

I test my crank angle sensors on the car with an oscilloscope. There may be other ways, like plugging it in the harness and putting a voltmeter on the sensor wire, turning the distributor slowly by hand and watching for the voltage toggle between 0V and 5V.

Bingo. The car fired right up. I guess pin 104 going hot is what smoked the ECM. Wasn't able to track why.Has to be making contact with a 12v source somewhere.It goes hot when I crank the engine. And ground when not cranking. What I don't understand is how not effecting other grounds.

And now for another question. Idle lopes up and down. Checked the idle circuit and it's sensors. What I found is that the idle speed control servo does not have 12v. only 2 pins book says one pin suppose to have 12v the other less. What I got was blue/white 4v and green/black 0v. Please don't tell me it's at the ECM.

Everything else seems to be good. I even get codes when I unplug sensors.

Pin 104 is spliced to the other grounds in the harness. Most likely the splice corroded and broke off, leaving it open. When the computer tried to use that ground, since it was not connected anywhere, the voltage went up to computer voltage. It may or may not have damaged the computer, but certainly will keep it from working.

The idle speed servo is a 6V DC motor controlled solely by the computer. The computer applies forward and reverse current to the motor as required to open and close it. At the computer with the harness disconnected, measure between pins 58 and 59. Should read 5-35 ohms. (I would like to see 4-6 ohms) If not, remeasure directly on the motor. If OK, look for a bad wire between computer and motor. If still out of range, replace the motor. If pin 58-59 is OK, check pin 6 at computer with the harness connected. It should read 0 volts closed throttle and switch to 5V as you open the throttle. (key on). Pin 17 at the ECM (harness connected) should read about .5V closed throttle and increase to about 4.5V wide open throttle (key on, engine off).

Sounds like we are well on our way! (I feel like this is the third fix on the same car)

Actually found the problem since I had been all over these harnesses found loose wire. Everything good. Thanks for all the help. Car runs great and idles smooth.

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Always

i have a 91 eclipse gs-turbo i just replaced the alternator and the battery and my turbo timer volt readings dont charge past 11.5 then when on the freeway in 5th gear it will go in and out from 11.5 all the way to 13.0 then back down and doesnt stay in the normal range for charging and i also then checked the wireing harness to the turbo timer to make sure it wasnt that it wasnt. Then the car died out at a 6.4 volt reading on my alternator i took the alternator back and got a new one and still not charging. Have any suggestions for me?

The GST is a fun car. I recommend that you start by taking the battery and charging it overnite at about 6 amps or for about 3 hours at 12 amps. Then take the car to Autozone or Napa or one of the car parts places and have them check the alternator. I know that you said you just replaced it but it sounds like the problem. Also take a good look at the ground cable to the frame (from the battery and the engine to the frame). The Eclipse is very sensitive to low voltage. Let me know if this helps. I just got rid of my GSX and really miss it. Al

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition System   

My #2 cylinder is not getting a spark. One morning i started the car, drove about a block to the store, turned off the engine and went inside. 5 minutes later i came out, started the engine, noticed immediatley it was not firing on all four cylinders. I drove back home one block and there the car has been parked for about a week. I replaced the cap, rotor, wires & plugs, with no change in performance. The engine idles the same with the #2 wire plugged in or not. Could the problem be the power transistors rather than the ignition coil, and are the ignition coil and the distributer seperate or integrated?

Try swapping one coil for the other, to see if it changes

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse All Part Groups   

Car will not start when cold unless ether is used. can not push the gas pedal until it runs for a couple minutes or it will die

Have the vehicle scanned to see if any diagnostic codes are in the ECM.A TPS or MAF sensor comes to mind.Check with one of your local parts houses(AutoZone,PepBoys etc).Some offer this service for free or at a nomonal charge.

What would those codes mean?

An eletrical "pulse" is sent to the ECM notifying it to respond with direction in which to proceed.For example,if a TPS sensor is sending a weak or incorect code,or the ECM itself is unable to decifer the code,the vehicle may not operate properly untill the problem is resolved.Mitsubisi was one of the hold outs along with BMW and Mercedes with releasing their code symptom fixes simply because they didn't want independent shops or shade tree mechanics working on "their" cars.Some of these vehicles are in a world of their own so make sure whomever you have test it has the proper equipment.
Good Luck,
Paul

thank you. we'll see how it goes

Good luck and if you need to keep in touch just log in and if I'm available I'll see if I can help you thru.
Good luck,
Paul

Ok, well there were no readings that came from the car. any other ideas?

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse Fuel System   

I have a 1991 eclipse 1.8 liter. It is not gaining any rpms it stays at a low idle unless use play with the gas petal. I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter,ecu, fuel pressure regulator,and injectors. The injectors are not firing properly. Does the distributor have anything to do with the opening and closing of the injectors? Thanks for any help you can offer.

No the distributer does not and before you go any further have you had your car scanned for diagnostic codes?
It seems to me that you will have some stored codes in the computer that should be a tell all.
Have you done a fuel pressure test and what was the pressure while at start up and running?

YES I HAD THE CAR SCANNED THERE WERE NO STORED CODES. The car will run if you spray fuel into the system and will rev high. The injectors are not firing properly. I used a light for the injector connections they flashed bright for a second or so then flashed dimly. There is good fuel pressure at the fuel rail but it is not being sent through the injectors.

di you do a fuel pressure test since the new install?

YES 36 LBS

The computer has full control over the voltage to the injectors what is the voltage that you get at the injector?
How did you test the injectors to determine that they are not firing properly and are there some that are not firing at all and what steps did you take for the test? you do the test.
have you tested the new fuel injectors for resistence across the terminals?
What are the voltages from the ecm to the injector with engine running?

I tested and a tec tested using a noid light. The light flashed brightly for a couple of secs and then faded. The voltage was not tested. Voltage was applied to the solenoids to see clicked or cycled. I purchased a new ECU and a Control Relay the results was the same as with original parts.

If you tested the injectors by applying 12 volts to them it is possible that they are shorted out.
check the resistence across the connector and tell me how many ohms do you get?
You will also want to check the voltage coming from the ecu so we can see what is fauting out

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

when letting off throttle rpms go down to nothing and car dies out. Is it throttle position sensor, or idle air control unit ?? Thanks

You can test the sensor with a volt ohm meter, and it and the IAC with a scanner, a test that commonly is free at some auto parts places.Get in there with some air intake cleaner as the IAC might be getting dirty.

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

I have a rather server engine vibration. I just changed the clutch and spark plugs & wires, and check the compressions. The compression was in spec per the manual. What could be the vibration problem? thanks for your help

Hello,

At which rpm's does the vibration occur? Does it matter if you are in gear? Under load?

It is at all RPMs, however it is most prevalent at the lower RPMs near idling.

The gear does not seem to matter. But when you push in the clutch, it seems to lessen.

Okay, check to see if the engine mounts are okay.

Did the problem appear just after plug wires and clutch replacement? Make sure the plugs are routed correctly.

In darkness, USING EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS!!, look to see if there is stray electricity from the coil, wires, or plugs. I know the wires are new, but they can still be bad. This is especially true if the wires were manufactured shortly after the car was new (bad wires out of the box was very common then).

the wires are new and the vibration get worse as i accelerate, eases up a bit during deceleration, and is at its worst in any gear when trying to maintain an even speed. Along with when its idling the car convulses. when i push in the clutch the ping sounding rattle goes away but the car seems to get a deeper more momentous vibration

I also did the darkness test you described on the wires. They all look good.

I have begun removing the transmission to inspect the pressure plate and clutch assembly.

Yeah, it sounds like you may have defective parts. Did the rattle appear immediately after clutch replacement? It it took a little while something may have come loose. Threadlocker is highly recommended for pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts (if removed, sometimes sealer is required too).

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Chugging When driving Always

While driving, the engine shudders until stalling unless you stay on the gas. When this happens, the dash "economy/power" indicator dims to almost going out. At the same time, the stereo (FM radio) goes all static and the radio display flickers. Changing the "economy/power" switch on the dash does not make a difference. On the day this started the car was started was warm, had been parked downtown and was started again and driven about 1.5 miles when the shuddering/chugging started. It will now start shuddering/chugging within a minute of putting in gear and driving. Seems to run OK in park after starting.

Is this likley a relay in the ignition system, fuel system part or other?

Hi,
In your case, the most likely cause is an electronic problem. The computers in these cars frequently fail and cause this stalling symptom. Before replacing the computer, check the resistance of the idle speed actuator. 1.8 engine = 5-35 ohms. 2.0 motor = 28-33 ohms between pins 1&2, 2&3, 4&5, 5&6. If out of specs, replace this first. If still not running right, replace your computer.
Dale

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

My car start up fine but sometime the check engine light goes on I step on the gas but the car rpm goes from 1900rpm to 2000rpm and then back. If I try to move the car it will move but jerk. I change pvc valve gas filter but still have same problem

Start by checking the diagnostic trouble codes. These are stored in the vehicles computer (ECU) when the check engine light turns on. Hopefully the codes will lead to the problem.

Use the following link if you need instructions on code retrieval.

http://www.troublecodes.net/mitsu/

Let me know which codes you find and we'll go from there.

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition System   

no spark,new power transistor,coil & crank shaft sensor

Hello,

Do you have the 1.8L or 2.0L engine?

2.0 doc

Okay, first of all we need to make sure the timing belt is not damaged. Confirm the belt is spinning the camshaft during engine cranking.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1c/be/9b/[redacted] d801cbe9b/repairInfoPages.htm

Copy and Paste the link above into your address bar. Note is contains a repair guide covering your car (should be helpful if you don't already have a paper manual.)

its fine

Okay, good on the timing belt as these tend to fail and do engine damage.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] d801cca48.gif

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] d801cca47.gif

Use the applicable link above (fore is for turbo, aft for non-turbo). You need to check for power from the ignition switch to the coil and power transistor. Is it available?

These also are known for computer failure.

i have done all checks in the hayens manual from ign.,power transistor and coil and crank shaft sensor.
also power relay to ECM.all were ok. but replaced power transistor,coil and crank sensor anyway.still no spark.please give me more then one thought

You have confirmed key ON battery positive to these devices?

If you have confirmed these (using a wiring diagram) you may have computer failure.

all were confirmed with diagrams.anyway to test computer?

Not really, most testing involves testing everything else first, thereby isolating the computer.

Have you tried to confirm output from the crank sensor (engine cranking for a 'live' signal)?

as i said we ran all test in book and tried old crank sensor,then bopught new one

Did this involve a cranking voltage test? This confirms the crank sensor is being triggered, a test beyond confirming the wiring is okay.

If the sensor is being triggered and voltage is available to power the coil, it really looks the computer.

send test

i just found out from previos owner he had trouble passing emissions test with this car after replacing engine with a 93 engine.do i need a 93 computer to pass emissions and does the crank sensor have to be timed or alligned?

I need an answer to the computer question. I bought both a 90 and a 93 waiting for your answer. Haven't heard from you in a week. Where are you?

Crank sensor--

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1c/c4/4[redacted] d801cc444/repairInfoPages.htm

The 90 & 93 computer are different parts. As for compatibility it is very hard to say. There are so many different configurations (fwd/awd, turbo/non, federal/calif) coupled with no way of knowing which parts were kept from the 90 and which were imported from the 93, it makes it impossible to know.

Have you checked the computer trouble codes to see if anything comes up?

since the car wouldn't start after putting in fuel pump and we had gas but no spark, no codes were recorded.

also of course i bought a computer to match the car .
90 and 93 2.0 non turbo,non cal.,ect,my question was does a 93 engine need a 93 computer to pass emissions?
all other things being equal.

The crank & throttle position sensor are listed as different, although the rest of the major (MAF, EGR, Oxy, Temp) components match. The computer, cylinder head, throttle body, and engine block are listed as different parts-- this was an ill-advised swap that the previous owner done. All you can do is try to work around it (sadly it may require complete harness replacement to 'marry' the '93 transplant engine to the '93 computer). To answer your question directly, "NO" there are other years that are compatible with the 93 that will surely work (the '91 is not compatible, how it will work is unchartered waters).

Because the engine quit running I'd concentrate on getting the engine running first. The failure that caused the engine to quit could of contributed to excessive emissions. Do you know the test results?

Edit-

the 93 that will surely work (the ['91] is not compatible

corrected

the 93 that will surely work [the '90] is not compatible

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine   

My 1990 Eclipse GST (about 138k miles) has a bad idle problem, but only sometimes. I cannot figure out what situation will even cause the problem, sometimes I'll park it for 15 minutes and it will happen other times it'll be fine.
The problem is a really rough idle resulting in a stall. The RPMs will start at around 800ish and jump to 1500 or so and then drop back down, it will run this cycle a couple times before dying. I'll turn it over again and the same thing happens. If I hold the throttle in and keep the RPMs up around 2000 I can feel the engine running really rough, before eventually smoothing out after about 30 seconds. I cannot figure out what is causing this or how to fix it.

The first thing to do isafull tune up, asIt probably has been awhile.Air filter and clean throttle body also. Then get thecarscanned if thereare any codes.

Does the Check Engine light come on at anytime while the engine is running? If it is I'll give instructions on retrieving codes.

Any smoke (black?) from the exhaust when this happens ?

The throttle position sensor (TPS) can cause this. Vacuum leaks can too.

The check engine light does not come on, and as far as I have seen there is no smoke or anything.

The next time it does this unplug the TPS. Any change?