Mitsubishi Galant

2002 Mitsubishi Galant Heating / Cooling System   

Heater will not blow hot air, and temperature switch will make a vibrating when turning

Does it sound like the blower motor is on at all and are you getting heat out of any of the ports?

the motor is working,and the cold air is blowing out of all ports

The switch is probably experiencing a bad connection , either internally or externally , at the plug.
If , at the plug,externally, clean the contact points and reinstall the plug. If internally, the switch will have to be replaced.
This part is probably not avail at an auto parts stote. A dealer or an autowrecker should have this part on the shelf.

I took off trim panels, got to the back of temperature control, there is rigid metal wire, when I'm turning the temperature knob it moves plastic part back and forth , so I assume that the switch is o.k.

Follow the rigid cable to the other end, it should actuate a lever. That opens and closes a door which controls the direction the heat goes (heat-vent-or defrost)The switch part has vacuum or electrical wires.

2002 Mitsubishi Galant All Part Groups   

I have a problem with the a/c. when u turn the a/c on 1,2,3 the compressor is on but the fan blower want blow. Then when u turn the a/c up on 4 the blower comes on but then the a/c compressor goes off. i think it's some kind of electrical problem.

Hello, When a fan speed other than the highest possible is selected there is a resistor pack that is used to lower the voltage to the fan motor so it runs at a slower speed.

If the fan won't run in speeds 1,2,3 it is likely the resistor pack has failed. The resistor pack is located on the HVAC case and is bolted in place. It will have an electrical connector with several wires in the connector (one for each speed). Try to locate the resistor pack on the HVAC case. It usually is near the blower motor under the right side of the dash.

The reason the fan runs on 4 is because a different power source is used to run the fan motor via a hi-speed blower relay. This power path bypasses the resistor pack completely.

What I need to find out is why the compressor doesn't run with fan speed 4 selected.

Will you be making this repair yourself?

Roger

yes i will be making the repair.

what does the resistor pack look like

May I have your email address please? I'll send you a couple pics.

Roger

my email is [redacted]

have u sent the pictures

Pics should be there. If not in your inbox, please check junk/spam filters.

Roger

2001 Mitsubishi Galant Heating / Cooling System   

NOT GETTING HEAT. HAVE CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT AND CHECKED THE HEATER ELEMENT. AIR MOVES, JUST NOT HEATED.

Can you hear the blower fan kicking on?
If so it is possible that the heater core is not allowing the water to circulate and could be clogged up.

yes, I can hear the blower fan.

Which thermostat did you change the one in the engine or the heater control?

I only knew of one, so I guess it was the one in the engine? not sure, i did not realize there were two.

I do not know why the post did no go through I responded to your reply yesturday.
I appologize for the wait.
Do you know how to access the heater core?, It is possibly clogged up and your system could be in need of a flush to clear the ports.

ALREADY DONE THAT. THE SWITCH ON THE DASH THAT TURNS THE HEAT ON HAS BEEN ACTING UP -- COULD THAT BE THE ISSUE?

That could be possible, you can pull it out and jump the connector at the switch to see if that changes the functioning of the fan and blend doors

2000 Mitsubishi Galant Fuel System Hesitating When accelerating Always

I have 115k miles on it. Is it time to change sparks plugs? I f so can I do it myself and where are they located. Please help

Changing the plugs differs depending on the engine you have.

Have the plugs ever been changed? If they haven't they are certainly due. The longer the plugs are left in the greater the chance there will be difficulty removing them. If they have never been changed it may be best left to a professional, in hopes of avoiding stripped threads when removing the plugs.

If you still wish to change the plugs yourself you should buy a repair manual for your car. Another option for a manual is an online subscription to alldata.com DIYer version. This site is the same service used by many independent shops (Alldata and Mitchell on Demand are used by shops, only alldata offers a repair guide for a singe vehicle). This is a viable option if you wish to do a variety of maintenance and repairs.

2000 Mitsubishi Galant Heating / Cooling System Overheating When idling Always

About 3 weeks ago, my car started overheating. I tried to get to my nearest friend's house but got stranded a few times on the highway. After making it there, I proceeded to diagnose the problem. I noticed that the lower radiator hose had a "gash" and was leaking coolant. For good measure, I changed both the upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled coolant. Car still overheated.

I figured the thermostat. So, I changed that as well and refilled coolant. Everything seemed OK for about a week when the temperature started running hot when idling at traffic lights or driving to look for parking spots. Prior to this, the radiator fan would come on(w/o A/C being on), which would indicate that the temp. would be rising shortly. The temperature is fine when driving steadily i.e. on the highway. It's come to the point where I have to turn the heat on full blast just to keep the temp. at it's regular mark. What else could be the issue? NOTE: Flushed and cleaned radiator.

It sounds like the radiator fan is inoperative. Have you checked to see if the fan turns on before it overheats?

Is the fan supposed to come on before the heat goes up? Typically, the fan comes on while operating the A/C. wise, I usually don't hear it. However, now, the fan comes on while idling for a while or during "stop and go" action. The temp. goes really high but not to the red. If I have the hood up and let the car idle, the temp won't go up. Could it be some kinda airflow issue or maybe the throttle?

It could be an airflow or coolant flow issue.

Start by checking to see if the radiator fins are plugged with debri.

The fan should come on before the engine overheats. If the engine continues to overheat when the fan is on, the problem is elsewhere.

Are you still losing coolant?

Checked the fans... no debris. Not losing any coolant. No leaking whatsoever. Fan comes on before overheat but continues to rise a little below the red mark. What kind of airflow issue? Air filter has been recently replaced. And now the oil light is flickering on and off ever so often. Got an oil change not even a month ago.

Does the oil light only flicker at idle?

Have you bled all the air from the cooling system?

It seems as if the new thermostat is inoperative or the water pump is not doing its job. There is the possibility of a leaking head gasket, but you should notice a loss of coolant in this case as long a reduction in power (and a likely check engine light illuminated).

Well, i'm not noticing a loss of coolant through leaking but after a week or so of driving I noticed that the reservoir tank was almost completely empty. I refilled it and now the check engine light has gone off.

Is the problem gone now, if it is better you may of simply had air in the system.

Yes it is. Everything seems fine now. Thanks for your time!

2000 Mitsubishi Galant Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the radio doesn't work/"code" is in the radio display

This means your radio has a security code that needs to be entered before the radio will "unlock". Hopefully someone wrote the number down and put it with the owners manual. wise the dealer will have to look up the code for you.

1999 Mitsubishi Galant Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

When installing a new radio, I plugged the speakers into the connector that has the speaker wires from the door, into the wrong pins in the socket. Now the door won't lock except when the motor in on and the doors are closed. They lock-then-quickly-lock when the doors are open and the engine is on. But with engine off the lock buttons on the dorr and the key do nothing at all.

lock-then-quickly-lock
should say
"lock-then-quickly-unlock"

I want to know what part to replace to fix the locks.

Hello, Have you already checked the fuses to see if a door lock or body fuse was blown? Perhaps your owners manual (if you have one) will map and identify the fuse applications.

Please advise,

Roger

Removed all the fuses and checked them all visually and with an ohm meter.
They are all oK.

Alright, I have doctors appointments this morning but will get to the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base this afternoon to do some research for you.

If you prefer an answer sooner than I can provide just release the question so that others may help.

Thanks,

Roger

Thanks, I think I blew up the inputs to the computer that control the lock/unlock when the power is off in the car. I would love to have a schematic of where that connector with speaker wires goes because I am sure my speaker hunting is what blew that line up. Maybe just changing a PCB wherever that cable goes would fix it ?
Yes, I want an answer, does it cost more than the $10 I put on my credit card ? I know the part will cost more, but not the answer, right ?

I don't have anything to do with charging you money. If I provide you an answer you accept then All-Parts will pay me. You have already paid them. Don't worry about additional charges from me. It cannot happen. If you were to release the question so that others may help (in hopes of a better answer than mine) you do not pay again for taking the option. It is your right.

Do you have a FAX number I can send data to? Do I need a cover sheet?

I have door lock info but didn't realize you needed speaker wiring too. If needed I can get the speaker schematic too.

Please advise,

Roger

Iwould like both,, FAX to Tommie Berry [redacted]

Okay, I'll prepare a cover sheet and FAX what I have on the locks for your review. I don't have a trip planned back into the city until the morning to get speaker wiring schematics. Will that work for you?

What series Gallant do you have? (LS,LE..)

Roger

My neighbor needed a ride to the city and that gave me opportunity to get your speaker wiring schematic too. The second FAX is on the way. Hope it is what you need.

Roger

Very nice, Thanks, Ill click it now !!!

1999 Mitsubishi Galant Ignition System   

Hello, i have a 1999 Galant with a really awful misfire. The car runs totally fine when cold but starts to miss at running temp. The check engine light code says "multiple misfire" (no kidding). I have identified that the #1 and #4 cylinders are the problems. I have replaced the coil packs, plugs and wires. That made it run better but nowhere close to normal. At times if i let of the throttle and then jump back on the miss will go away for a few moments. Any ideas? Please help!!!

Hello, Consider that poor performance from clogged fuel injectors can also be cause of a misfire.

I would suggest flushing the fuel injectors and possibly a cylinder balance check and/or a compression test.

Low fuel pressure could factor here and so could a restricted fuel filter.

Have I jump started your thinking?

Roger

1998 Mitsubishi Galant All Part Groups   

1998 Mitsubishi Galant. Belt squeal when starting car and at low speeds. Worse with A/C and defroster on. Goes away if you turn the A/C off and/or fan, until you get going. All belts have been replaced and just after a few days it is starting all over again. What could be wrong?

The most common cause is a bad belt tensioner. The belt will need to be checked for proper tension first of all (simple but important step but is easy to overlook). If tension appears okay remove the belt and spin individual components by hand to see if one offers more resistance than normal.

The alternator can also cause this problem. Make sure that the idle speed is not to low.

The alternator

The alternator was recently replaced, so I don't think that is the problem

Okay, probably not, I just wanted to make sure it was not overlooked (not sure why the word alternator appeared again at the end of my previous message.)

1997 Mitsubishi Galant Engine Won't Start  

i have a 1997 mitsubishi galant nad one day on my way to work i was right in my parking spot and the car died on me i thoug nothing of it so got out and went to work. when i came back the wouldn't start. i towed it home and i checked for spark and fuel. there was nop spark and i'm only getting fuel when i crank the car over. i doesn't prime when you turn the key. i picked up a used distributor in good condition from the junkyard and i am still not getting any spark. i also checked all the fuses and they are all fine. can you please help me. thanks

"Hi,
A frequent cause of your symptom is a failed computer. These computers tend to fail and then the car loses spark. The distributor sends the signal to the computer, the computer sends it to the ignitor and coil. The only other likely causes are the main power supply and grounds.
Hope you're on the road soon again.
Dale"

when you say main power and grounds which ones do you mean. what do i need to check? thanks

There are several wires carrying power to the computer. Make sure they have 12V with the key on. There are also several wires which are ground (0V). Make sure they are 0V when cranking the engine. Any ground over 1/4 volt is suspect and any power under 10V is suspect. Again, it most likely is your computer.
Dale

alright i'm gonn go pick up a ecu from the junkyard tomorrow since they have two there and see if that fixes the problem. thanks

hey i picked up the ecu form the junkyard and installed it and it still doesn't work. i'm kinda stumped cause i just changed the distributor and the computer and it still does not work.

Hi,
Do you have injection pulse? Do you have Federal or California emissions? Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? Can you give me your e-mail address so I can send you a wiring diagram on Monday? What test equipment do you have? Have you checked for codes with a scanner? RPM signal?
Dale

i didn't check for injector pulse. i have federal emissions. i didn't pay attention to check engine light, but i'll check it out and let you know. also my email address is [redacted] . thanks

On Monday, I will send you a wiring diagram and a little more help. What equipment do you have?
Dale

i have a lot of tools so i shouldn't have a problem with that. i also have a test light and volt meter to test the wires if thats what you are asking about. let me know what i need and i'll let you know if i have it.

"Do you have a scanner or code reader? Do you have logic probe or graphing multimeter or oscilloscope? Test light and voltmeter will come in handy!
Dale"

1996 Mitsubishi Galant Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

I cannot find the fuse for the internal dashboard illumination. I believe that I shorted the fuse while installing an aftermarket stereo. I've looked in the fusebox under the dash and the fusebox under the hood. (The illumination lights light up the dashboard and gear column when driving at night.) Can you provide direction as to where this fuse would be?

The fuse is located under the dash in the fuse cluster. It is marked as dash panel or gauges. If the fuse is good but you dont have the the lights working then you need to check for voltage. If you dont have voltage then you need to check for burnt or damaged wires (or grounds). Let me know if I can be of further help. Al

Just a followup to your question. Have not heard if you were able to validate the wiring. Let me know. Al

1996 Mitsubishi Galant All Part Groups   

My 1996 Galant has suddenly developed a loud ticking that sounds as if it comes from the middle of the dashboard. It is a steady ticking, sounds like a ticking bomb. This continual ticking is not altered by the hot or cool weather. I have recently had an oil change and all fluids have been checked. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a relay of some sort. The only way to determine which one is to stick your head under the dash.Sometimes the offending relay can be isolated by reaching in ther with your hand to determine if you can 'feel' the clicking.There might be a low oil switch tripping the relay and even though the oil level is correct , the switch might be faulty, then causing the relay to click.
No real shortcuts here, first find the relay, and unplug it. Then determine which (if any) light comes on, or which part of the car does not operate, then you know the function of the relay, thusly pointing you in some direction.

1996 Mitsubishi Galant Ignition System   

car won't start

Okay, this will take some back and forth to solve.

What happens when you turn the key: Does the starter crank the engine normally but not start?

If it does not crank the engine, do you have power to other things (radio, headlights, etc)? If these are as strong as normal this indicates the battery should be okay.

1995 Mitsubishi Galant Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When braking 

how do I change brake pads

jack and support car. Remove wheel/tire. Remove caliper (two 14mm or 12mm bolts on rear side of caliper). Do not remove brake hose! next you want to press the caliper piston back into its bore using a piston compressor (available at most auto parts stores) or a large pair of channel lock pliers. Check the brake rotor at this time for any damage (ground metal, grooves) Remove the caliper mounting bracket attached to the rear of the spindle/hub assembly and saddles the rotor.. (two 15mm or 17mm bolts). take the rotor to an auto parts store that resufaces rotors. They can check the rotor to be sure it is still within specs.. Assembly is reverse of these procedures

you asked a question in this forum about your Mitsubishi... were you satisfied with the answer

1995 Mitsubishi Galant Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When braking Always

how do I change brake pads

First advice is if you dont know what you are doing, dont mess with brakes!!!! Questions you did not answer.. Do you plan on replacing both (yes BOTH) rotors with new ones, if yes continue to next step, if not.. if the grinding has been more than a few days your rotors are toast and in either case to put new pad to the rotors and have success you must have them machined.
Since we have talked about the rotors, do you have the metric Allen Wrenches or Torx wrenches to remove the caliper from the retainer/support?
And finally since now we are talking about the calipers, do you have the special tools needed to return the piston to the fully compressed position?
If I sound negative, it is because I am. I fully believe if you can do it yourself then please have at it. Brakes require many special tools for successful repairs, as a mechanic I have most of them and have spent $$$ to say that. I also know that for brakes not to shimmy they have to be true... true to 5 ten thousanths (0.005) of an inch or they will either make noise, wear out your pads fast or not properly stop you car. So my advice is spend the $$$ and get them done by a professional. I will now step down from my soapbox. AL

1995 Mitsubishi Galant Fuel System Won't Start When starting 

The fuel pump was replaced and still is not starting. Where are all the relay switches located. Also could you tell me where the fuses are located. Thank you for your prompt attention to this matter. Sincerely, Gary Fanning 209-668-7622

Gary,
The main fuse box is under the dash on the drivers side. There should be some relays above the fuse box. There is also a fusible link box under the hood. It has a black lid/cap on it.

Is the fuel pump not running?
Sterlingfixer

1995 Mitsubishi Galant Engine   

2.4 fi,a/t w a/c. driving along and just slowly quit.
Put in spark plugs, wires, dist.cap and rotor. has obd1 system, had code 59, replaced rear o2 sensor, tried taking out catalytic conv. for possible back pressure ,still wont run, did compression check #1 170 ,#2 160 #3 165 , #4 165 will now crank but wont idle, if you pull out plugs dripping with gas, tried new fuel pressure regulator, no difference

You need to see if there is a fuel injector stuck open, or if the the ground to the fuel injectors is always on (the computer supplies an On/Off ground pulse while the positive side is always On).

A noid light would be ideal, plug it in and crank the engine engine. Normally the light will flash. If it stays On it means the matching injector will stay on (overfueling).

Were all spark plugs dripping wet with gas?

1995 Mitsubishi Galant Ignition System   

My daughter-in-laws Galant shuddered and died while driving after starting off from intersection. It will not start but there is the smell of fuel after cranking. I hooked up an Actron CP 9135 OBD II scanner to car and received a Data Link Error message. It has a 2.4 DOHC engine with 72K. The Timing belt has been replaced 3 years ago (25K). VIN is 4A3AJ46GXSE071108. Please advise. Ralph

Do you get a check engine light with the key on (as you normally do)?

Did your canner actually say "Data Link Error message" ?
I need to know exactly the code you recieved, at this point it seems that your car computer is malfunctioning
First of all try to rescan the PCM and if that does not work, disconect the positive battery cable for one minute and connect it again , this will be to reset the computer
Try to scan it again for fault codes.

I tried at least 5 times and received the same message, DATA LINK ERROR. I also removed and replaced all fuses and relays from fuse block. I have not tried disconnecting the positive cable for 1 minute and won't be able to until this evening. Is there anything else you think I should try at that time?
Thanks in advance. Ralph

The check engine light does come on when the key is on.

Beginning in 1996, all passenger cars and light trucks (8,500 lbs. GVW or less) built for sale in the U.S. were required to be OBD II-compliant.You may be using a scanner that is not and you will need to try a
OBD I scanner before disconecting the battery cable You really want to unhook it as a last resort after trying another scanner as it may have vital information about what happened to the car just before it died on her

The scanner is OBD II compliant, is approximately 1 year old. It is an Actron CP9135, Serial# [redacted] and has been used on other vehicles successfully. A local garage told me that '95 was a transition year for Mitsubishi and not all are OBD II compliant. 1996 and later are no problem. If he is correct, where should I go from here short of getting my hands on a Mitsubishi scanner. Thanks

I understand what you are saying, i have a question on weather or not your car has the newer system on it.
You said that it has been used on other vehicles successfully but not on yours.
you also said that youre is a 1995 which would be right at the transition year.
I say you should try an older scanner first before disconnecting the battery cable to be on the safe side, because you will not be able to reproduce those codes again.
the check engine light means there is something in the computer and it will really help if we can retreive stored codes

I searched under the hood on all the info decals and nowhere does it say OBD II compliant. In addition, I checked all fuses under dash, and took a good look at the connector. The connector only has pins 1,4 and 6 being used. I do not have an OBD I code reader for this car. What pins do I need to jump to read stored codes. In addition, the check engine light come on when key is initially turned to start and goes out after 20-30 seconds as I believe it should. It does not stay on constant as it would if it had a hard code. I hope this info helps. Thanks again in advance...Ralph

That would be the connector you need
connect the volt meter to terminals to 25 and 4 or 5
turn ignition switch on
read the pattern from the voltmeter and record the info
count the swings of the voltmeter
watch for the pauses

I don't understand. There isn't a pin 25 on the OBDII connector and as I stated earlier, I only see 3 pins being used. Thanks Ralph

You will only need Two terminals to connect to, one is the hot or pos and the other is the ground wire.
Ther are two types of connectors , if your's
does not hava a terminal 25 then here is the wiring for the older type connector
that would be terminals 1 and 12 for the voltmeter hook up and the same reading directions.

1994 Mitsubishi Galant Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When accelerating No pattern

'94 Galant LS SOHC 4cyl w/AC. Brake, Antilock and Battery Dash Lights (red) are almost always dimly on. Sometimes grow brighter under acceleration.
Battery is relatively new (6 mo.), alternator seems to be charging and brakes have been checked good (new front brakes). As an aside...the check engine light has flashed a few times but does not stay on.
Looking for things to check without spending a ton on an old car at the dealer.

Hello, An alternator has a rectifier bridge with six diodes. Some designs will use a "Diode Trio" between the internal voltage regulator and the rectifier bridge. If one of these diode fail the alternator will still work but it's output is reduced. Voltage will backfeed through the bad diode and glow the battery warning light dimly.

The first thing I would do is have the alternator tested for maximum output capacity. Most auto parts national chain stores will do this test for you without charging a fee. Please call ahead and verify the service is free and after you've had it checked out, please advise. It may be just that simple.

Should you learn that your car needs an alternator and you can change the part yourself you'll save some good money.

I want to help,

Roger

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll get the alternator checked this weekend and let you know. (Would that also make the Anti-lock and Brake lights glow as well?)

BobK

I believe the condition is caused by a low voltage backfeeding through a bad diode to these lights also as they share a common ground circuit/connection.

I'll look to hear from you.

Roger

You got it! Alternator bad. $200 bucks, some rusted bolts and skinned knuckles later...all is well.

Thanks!

Cool! Great job, sir. Thanks for your business and please try us again when you need something else.

Regards,

Roger

Will you accept my answer to your question? In order for me to be paid I ask that you click on the "OK TO PAY MECHANIC" button.

If you have any trouble with the pay button, please advise.

Thanks,

Roger

Absolutely! I do not see the pay button anywhere though.

All right. I'll ask All-Parts to review our dialog and release the funds so that I may be paid. Thank you very much!

Regards,

Roger

OK,Good. Thanks for your help.

1992 Mitsubishi Galant Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start  

I took my kids to school in the morning and in the afternoon I got in the car and it did not start anymore.

the battery might be dead

new battery

Is the starter cranking the engine over?

yes it is.

In order to troubleshoot the problem accurately, some things have to be tested during the actual problem. Any other time and everything will check out good. Trying to diagnose this any other way amounts to guessing and that is just not accurate by any technician.

You need to first test a few functions during the failure.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester.
2) Test for injecter pulse using a small bulb called a noid light.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

I was told that it might be the computer. But I was not having any problems with the car at all until that afternoon when it was time to pick the kids up from school. it drove fine in the morning

This is a standard proceedure to troubleshoot an "crank, not start" problem. Seeing the whole picture will tell you what system is not doing it's job.
It's not something that you can guess at.

I will try doing those things you mentioned and I will get back to you in a while.

I checked the plugs, the injecters and fuel gauge and everything is working but the car does not turn on.

What was the fuel pressure?
How did you check the injecter pulse?

My husband had those things checked by his friend when the car broke down it has been almost one year since the car has not started. Today my husband checked the plugs like you told me to do and there were no sparks.

OK, you have completed one of the tests. you still need to find out if you have injecter pulse and correct fuel pressure.

i will have them checked and I will get back to you. Thanks

There is not pressure from the fuel pump. it has a new fuel pump, new battery, and a newignition coil. There is no fire from spark plugs. The car does not start.

OK, you have no spark and no fuel pressure. How about injecter pulse?

How do you check injecter pulse? There is no spark in the ignition coil and we just bought it

You need to get a little bulb called a noid light that plugs into one of the injecter plugs and it should flash when the engine is cranked. Most auto parts stores or tool distributors will have them.

There was no light. We just checked it

You haven't checked the injecter pulse yet. That is what you need to check it.

we connected the noid light and cranked the engine and there was no light

There is a good chance you have a bad MPI relay. That's about the only thing that can make you lose fuel pressure, injecter pulse and spark at the same time. It's located under the dash on the passenger side and has 9 wires going into it.

I had to order the part tuesday and it came today (friday). We installed it and the car still did not turn on. What do I do next? I am talking about the MPI relay

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on (as it normally does)?

Have you checked all fuses?

The check engine light comes on and the fuses have been checked

Have you checked the timing belt, you simply need to make sure it is not broken at this point (the camshaft is turning, valves open and close, etc)? You can simply unfasten the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when the engine cranks, if you have a distributor- does your car have one (it's listed with and without one)?

After this I'd recommend testing the ignition module. Call ahead to a parts store like Autozone or Advance Auto and see if they can test it for you (this is a free service).

we have checked the timing belt and also removed the distributor and the rotor does turn when the engine is cranked

The next check is for key on positive voltage getting to the coil (one terminal will get pos. voltage with the key on and lose it when the key is off).

there is and the ignition module was checked by autozone and they said it was good

Is The ignition module the same as an ignitor? Is that the little black box outside the distributor

You can use the following link to identify the parts on your car- enter your vehicle information then click on 'Replacement Parts'- when you select a part it will have a picture with it.

http://www.partsamerica.com/VehicleSelection.aspx?destinationpage=Default.aspx

I would strongly guess there is a problem with the distributor/related components. Call a local junkyard and see if you buy a used one at a reasonable price- it seems it would be worth something for test purposes alone at this point.
I'm sorry for the delay.

we installed a brand new fuel pump 2 weeks ago. if we open the gas cap we don't hear the fuel pump working. Is this the way to check the fuel pump?

Partially, when the key is turned on the first time (after sitting) and during engine cranking (and running when applicable) the fuel pump should run. And yes, you'll hear it in the tank.

If you do not have spark, there is likely a problem in the distibutor/etc and the fuel pump will not be sent voltage- therefore it can be okay but not run (not without the voltage)(no 'engine cranking' signal from the /distributor, no need/path to command the fuel pump on).

we will try checking and will get back to you thanks douglas

Took the ignition module to Autozone again and it is good. The guy told my husband it might be the crankshaft position sensor. That's expensive for a sensor. Is there anyway to check the sensor?

You can do some checks. I'd remove the sensor and have the autoparts guy compare ohms readings from your sensor to the new one (if they cannot test it for you).

Check this site, rockauto.com for to see if you can save on the part. Some autoparts stores will match competitors prices, if the time comes to buy and rockauto is the least expensive ask the brick and mortar parts stores to match.

So do you think it could be the crankshaft sensor?

where is the crankshaft sensor located?

Inside the distributor.

What is the price you were given? Sometimes a whole distributor is cheaper than individual components.

The price for a crankshaft position sensor at autozone was $397.99 The print out they gave us says that the sensor is located under hood, passenger side, front engine area, below valve cover, mounted in engine block.Would it make a difference if my car is a Galant GS (DOHC) and autozone gave me a price for a galant (SOHC). Would it be located elsewhere?

If you have a distributor the crank sensor is the electronic part inside the distributor (this is one of many common names for the part- also called a crank angle sensor, hall effect sensor, pick-up coil- all describe the same part which can get confusing).

If you have distributorless ignition you will have a crankshaft sensor mounted where they told you.

I was unsure which engine you had, just that you'd made reference to your car having a distributor.

Use the following links for pictures to the various ignition components.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartTypes.aspx?pgid=TUNEAMS&desc=Ignition+%26+Tune-Up

And this link for sensors.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartTypes.aspx?pgid=SENSAMS&desc=Sensors

1991 Mitsubishi Galant Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always

auto trans is starting off in and staying in one gear never up or downshifts either by fully depressing gas pedal or by manually downshifting car it always stays in one gear (seems to be 3rd or 4th) is there a relay or solenoid somehere that controls shifting if so where is it??

Hello, I'm not sure I can provide the information you need as transmissions are not often a do-it-yourself fix.

Have you checked fuses and any wiring connectors going to the trans. for connection integrity? Does reverse work allright? Is the condition present at all times, or, after having driven awhile do things get crazy? Did this occur suddenly or over time?

I'm wondering if the torque converter clutch (TCC) might be stuck in the "applied" mode.

Please advise,

Roger

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Roger

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1991 Mitsubishi Galant Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always No pattern

I'm having a problem with my 1991 Galant losing electrical power to the fuel pump causing the car to shut off. The MPI Control Relay (located under the glove box) clicks one time turning off the fuel pump which then causes the car to stop running due to lack of fuel. This occurs while stopped at intersections or while driving. I can also drive it for thirty minutes, park it for two hours then it will not run. The relay will only stay on for 3 seconds. Then it has to set for about ten minutes for it to crack. Something is causing the MPI Control Relay to disconnect only the fuel pump side. There is no pattern to it. I've taken the cover off off the relay so that I can see when it connects or disconnects. I have replaced the MPI Control Relay, O2 sensor, and MPI Control Unit (the computor) an the car is still doing the same thing. I have the wiring diagram and it shows that the Blk and the Blk-Wht wire is common with the Fuel Pump, O2 Sensor, Ignition Coil, and Distributor. I'm running out of parts to change out. I'm thinking about using a two pound hammer to repair it...... If you could help me I would greatly appericate it. Thanks and have a good day.... floydandlamar@mindspring.com

Hello, I'll try to help here. I'll be accessing the Mitchell I data base tomorrow and see what I can find for you. What size engine does your car have in it, please?

Thanks,

Roger

It's a 2.0 liter. Here are the codes I'm getting 11, 13, 41, 42. Here's something else that I've discovered. If I take a test light an insert into the back of the wiring harness of the MPI Control Relay on the WHT-RED wire (which is a hot wire that goes to MPI Control Relay in the computor) the car will run. I assume that I'm giving the computor the ground signal that It needs to continue the curcuit, but once I remove the test light the fuel pump side of the MPI Control Relay disconnects removing power from the fuel pump (car shuts off). I believe that the reason for my problems is the computor is disconnecting the fuel pump relay due to a missing signal from some related part such as the fuel pressure regulator or fuel injectors. I'm I on the right track?

I like your thinking. The computer is definately dropping (or failing to provide) the ground on the WHT/RED wire circuit.

To help you further and get the correct schematic...is your 2.0L engine a single overhead cam (SOHC), or, dual (DOHC)? Turbo? And is the transmission manual or an automatic?

I didn't get your engine info in time to do the research I wanted to and now that I see how the data is layed out, the engine/trans types are vital. I can check things futher tomorrow.

Roger

SOHC with automatic transmition

OK, Now I can get some research done.
Meanwhile:

Code 11 = Oxygen sensor
Code 13 = Intake air temperature
Code 41 = Fuel injector problem
Code 42 = Fuel pump or circuit problem

Can you clear these codes and see what comes back? I keep thinking (as you do) the computer is monitoring a sensor to "know" when to provide ground for the fuel pump to continue to run. Oil pressure would make sense, but I haven't proven that yet.

Roger

Thanks Roger, I've reset the codes and the same ones come back.

Yikes, I've read and studied but I don't yet find the answer that clinches things. Please, don't give up on me. I'm no quitter.

Roger

Today I have copied 11 pages of diagnostic flow charts concerning the oxygen sensor, the intake air sensor, the fuel injectors and the fuel pump circuits. Too much to type!! I thought we'd try a diagnosis by code approach. Do you have a shop manual? Does your public library have access to the Mitchell I Data Base at no charge to you?

I want to mail these pages to you via USPS. Is there a way we can do this and not breach privacy protocol? I would need your mailing address...

Roger

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Roger

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1991 Mitsubishi Galant Fuel System   

WHERE IS THE FUEL FILTER LOCATED IN A 1991 MITSUBISHI GALANT

If you are standing in front of the car the fuel filter is
-underhood
-left side of firewall (up high).

1991 Mitsubishi Galant Ignition System Malfunction When starting 

recently replaced starter but was not case. no volts where going to 's' terminal on solenoid. replaced ignition switch but still didn't work. not sure if car has a stater relay or if there is a defective switch since this is a manual trans and you have to depress clutch to start. help

Definitely check the clutch safety switch.

but where would it be located,

Look above the clutch pedal.

1991 Mitsubishi Galant Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I was going down the highway, all of my gages went crazy. My windshild wipers came on and would not go off. my radio stopped when I put my foot on the gas and my windshild wipers stayed on until I stopped the car. The mechanic told me that the battery acid got on the wires and shorted out. He purchased another battery and told me he repaired the wires. The next day I drove to work with no problems. When I was ready to go home the car would not start. I had to get a jump to get home. Coming doing my street the system went crazy again. The same results happend again. I checked my wiring and it was no sign of battery acid on the wiring. Please tell what's wrong with my car.

It sounds like he didn't repair all the damage. The engine and chassis grounds need to be inspected/replaced. Usually when electrical things start acting crazy, it is a weak ground causing the problem.

The charging system needs to be check also. Also test to see if there is a parasitic draw (electricity being consumed when the ignition switch is off, draining the battery).

1989 Mitsubishi Galant Engine Won't Start  Always

I have no spark to the plugs. I have replaced plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Then a used distributor from a local wrecking yard. Still no spark. I then was told it needed a coil. still no spark. I did notice that when cranking the engine over there was a thin red line of spark from the coil wire from the coil when holding it aside of the engine. I then took a volt meter and verified there was 12 volts coming into the coil from the power wire. Positive 12 volts there. Also, I had taken the brain out of it and put it in another car that was same year and make as mine that a friend owned. That car ran perfect. I think I can safely assume the brain is good beings it started and ran his car. So after checking all these things and still coming up empty handed, can you please help shed some light on this for me. What else should I be looking at? I do my own mechanical work, but this has been a real pain to figure out.Please help.

If you have weak spark check for a bad ground. If you don't have a spark tester (preferred) test in low light or dark conditions to get an accurate assessment. Be careful around moving engine parts!

If you have no spark check to see if the rotor is turning when you crank the engine. Never overlook fuses, battery connections, grounds, and fusible links when you experience an electrical failure.