Mitsubishi Montero

2000 Mitsubishi Montero Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving No pattern

Rear right wheel intermittantely makes a vibration as if it were running over road grooves or city titties. Does not happen during braking, turning, acclelerating or decelleration. Sometimes it does it for 20 minutes at a time. Tires are new maybe 1 month old.

Intermittent problems are the hardest to troubleshooot.. First a couple of questions... did the problem start when you had the new tires installed? If yes, have the company that installed them rebalance the tire. You may also have something in the tire (like water or part of the old valve stem). If this is not when the problem started, then I would replace the rear wheel bearings on both sides. This is a simple job that you can do in the driveway. Make sure that you properly grease the new bearings. DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE AXEL NUT! Let me know if you have other questions. Al

2000 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Stalling When braking When warm 

2000 montero sport limited (3.5) stalls at red lights and when coasting to a stop. problem started after batter accidentally drained completely. battery was recharged and car was driven for 120 miles, but car now stalls.

Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for fifteen minutes. Reconnect and test drive. See if the problem clears up.

If the check engine light is coming on, have the codes checked at Advance Auto or Autozone (free service) and let me know which codes they find.

hi doug,

i tried your suggestion, but it did not improve the situation. also, there is no "check engine" warning light, either. everything is normal (as before the battery drained), except for the stalling.

john

Have the electrical system checked for proper charging.Also have specifically do a load test on the battery.I don't know how you accidently drained it,but you may now have a dead cell that is not maintaining proper voltage.Even if the alternator is cranking out the proper voltage,if the battery is unable to sustain it and provide the system its power,the system will shut down.
Good Luck,
Paul

hi paul,

i had the battery tested, was told its bad, bought and let them install a new one today, and yet the car still stalls when coming to a stop.

any other ideas?

Now that you have proper voltage yet you still have stalling,a TPS or ECM could fall into play.Check with one of your local parts houses to see if they offer diagnostic scanning.Some offer this service for free or at a nominal charge.If a problem code is retrieved,then by following a code flow chart you should be able to pinpoint your problem.
Good Luck,
Paul

2000 Mitsubishi Montero Brake System   

do you need a wheel puller to change the rotors

If you're talking brake rotors, no. Remove the calipers and the rotor comes off.(Note: some vehicles have a screw attaching the rotor to the hub.)

yes brake rotors I took the caliper off and they would not come off.

Try using a rubber mallet around the rotor and check for anything attaching it to the hub. I don't recall ever seeing a rotor and hub being one unit.

1999 Mitsubishi Montero Electrical / Lighting Systems  When driving Always

The charging system warning light came on last night and so did the brake warning light. The car seems to still be driving okay (had to drive 30 miles home). The nearest Mitsubishi dealership is about 90 miles away. Is this something I can take care of myself, a local dealership can take care of for me, or do I need to take it to a Mitsubishi dealer? Thanks for your help.

I dealt with this problem just a week ago. Dont worry about going to Mitsubishi. Take the truck to a NAPA or AutoZone and they will test the battery and charging system free of charge. This will let you know which item has failed. Dont be suprized if they tell you the battery is weak, after 5 years it should be replaced anyway. They can also test the alternator (the voltage regulator is internal to the alternator and not a customer serviceable item). It takes but a few minutes and even if the alternator is bad, an average person can replace it in about an hour. Let me know if you need more. Al
PS it should also make your brake lite go out.. the 2 systems are electrically connected and the brake system is seeing low voltage.

1997 Mitsubishi Montero Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

I had a problem, I thought with the radiator where I was loosing fluid (not from any particular point - could not find a leak) and could smell radiator fluid when I stopped and turned off the truck. I replaced the thermostat last night and today have been driving it for about 1.5 hours (with A/C on) and am home now. I get back in the truck start it up with and now the blower will not blow and the variable control doesn't work. Only when I turn the left knob from Econo to A/C and then I hear the compressor engage. Hopefully what I have done by changing the thermostat will resolve the loss of fluid. Can fluid be lost by the engine boiling it back out throught the radiator relief or overflow line that goes back into the filler resevoir? I cannot find a leak anywhere.

I have looked and cannot find a fuse for this anywhere. I don't have a manual either. Could this be a switch controlled by the compressor or behind the control knob?

Thanks

It is possible that you have a leaking head gasket and the water is evaporating out of the tail pipe
NO water will not just disapear out of the cooling system if you ran the engine hot there is a possibility that your gasket is damaged and allowing a coolant leak
I would check for water in the engine by looking at the dip stick and white smoke out of the tailpipe
look inside the radiator while the car is running of course not while it is too hot and see if there is a boiling motion or air bubbling up you can also cup your hand over the radiator inlet and check for a sucktion
a pressure sucking your hand down.
The only way of finding the fuse for the blower would be to look on the inside of the fuse cover ,as the book does not give details of that sort
make sure you check for a fuse box under the hood
I hope this helps

I checked and there is nothing but oil in the engine... nice and dark. Would I loose power if there was a blown gasket? The reason why I asked about the evarporation of the fluid is because I changed the thermostat. Could a clogged thermostat cause fluid to stay on the block longer and somehow force the evaporation out of the system?

The fuse box on the inside doesn't say anything about the blower for the A/C and under the hood there are only 5 or 6 fuses and they are all good.

Thanks

The water has to be going somewhere It will not just evaporate into the air
It depends on how bad of a leak there is and where the leak is as to whether or not you would lose power
under normal leaks with water you do not lose power ,but it gets worse fast

This sounds to be more serious than what I would like to take on myself. I am going to take the truck into someone to take a look at in the morning.

Thanks

I hear you
get back to me and I would be interested in hearing how it turns out

1995 Mitsubishi Montero Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes Always

starter relay clicks, everything comes on, starter works fine when jumper wire used from battery. Continuous attempts finally gets a result.

You will need to check the small wire going to the starter. Check for any damage, corrosion, looseness, etc. Also check for voltage (one lead of multimeter on small wire terminal, other on known good ground)at the solenoid (small wire). You should have battery voltage (less a small amount for resistance) at the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position.

Either you have a voltage problem to the solenoid or the solenoid is sticking. If the solenoid is sticking the starter will need to be replaced, or replace solenoid, or repair solenoid (not many people do this anymore).

1995 Mitsubishi Montero All Part Groups   

vehicle has loss of power upon exceleration new computer,mass flow air censor,wires plugs,o2 sensor,fuel filter, fuel pump checks at 47 lbs,compression is 204 on all cylinders, timing marks have been checked,even the lift on the cam shafts fave been checked .the valve under the throtel body has been removed and cleaned ,and the fuel injectors have been cleaned and flowed .still loss of power upon exceleration.

Make sure there is not a misfire at the coil. Check for signs of carbon tracking and cracks in the coil housing.

The other thing that stands out that has not been mentioned is and exhaust restriction. Check this next, most notably the catalytic converter. A quick test is to remove the oxygen sensor and test drive. Power will increase if an exhaust restriction is the problem.

Let me know what you find and we'll continue.

the first thing checked was for a exhaust restriction the system was taken loose at the y pipe. the vehicle has 3 coils and all have been checked prevously this vehicle has been to 3 different places to be checked sorensen autmotive in mt clements mi . pride autmotive in warren mi. and bobs discount muffler and brakes in warren mi no one can figure out the problem they all say it is beyond their knowledge.

Try temporarily disconnecting the egr valve and test driving. Any increase in power now?

as per chiltons repair manual this vehicle does not ha egr valve it is for calif. emissions only

Unplug the MAF, does it get better, worse, or stay the same?

Separate test, unplug the TPS, better or worse now?

1994 Mitsubishi Montero Engine   

after having the heads done on my montero (3.5L DOHC)and reassembling the engine it idles very hi about 2,800 rpm then when it reaches opperating temp the idle speed will drop for a second down to 2,300 then rise back up to 2,800 then back down and back up contstantly like a sensor is turning on to try and correct the hi idle. could this be from a severe leak in the intake manifold? What would contribute to the hi idle speed?

A common problem for high idle on these engines is a faulty idle air control motor. It has a 6 pin connector and should have about 20-60ohms from the center pin on each side to the adjoining 2 pins. This is how to test the 4 internal circuits. If any of these readings are very far off from the others, you have a bad control motor.

i get 30 ohms on top right to top center,top left to top center, botom right to bottom center,and 25K on bottom left to bottom center. So it appears to be the IAC that is faulty. Correct? It dident have the hi idle problem before

25k is way out. That coil is no good and the whole unit will need to be changed.

1994 Mitsubishi Montero All Part Groups   

94 montero, when I turn the key, I hear the pizo when the key is turned to acc, when I turn the key to start, everything dies, no electric to anything. After 15-20 minutes seems like something "resets" and I have power to ACC until I try to turn it over.... another strange thing is I turn the headlights on and the relays go nuts both the head and tail relays buzz. I also hear other relays clicking. My guess is the ECU is fried

The headlights should be independendent of the ECU. You may have a circuit breaker that is tripping and subsequently resetting itself. Disconnect the small wire (ignition) from the starter and try again (the starter will not be able to function, but everything else will, be sure to tape the small wire so it can't short. This will let you know if the starter is contributing to the problem.

Also inspect the battery cables/terminals/ground wires/etc. A bad ground is the number one cause of strange electrical problems. It could be the case here, as could something shorting out.

Thanks for the tip. I removed the starter ign lead, no change. Checked computer for anything obvious, leaking capacitor etc, very clean. I do agree with you that lights and emergency flashers should still work outside the ECU but they dont. I get nothing. battery is fine, nothing is causing it to drain when key is off. when I turn on the flashers the relays hum, turn on the lights the relays hum, this is just with the key inserted in the ign. When I turn the key I barley hear the pizo, when I turn to start everything dies. no power whatsoever so I believe it is triping some kind of thermo breaker. There is a closed circut/relay or short somewhere. Time to get the book out on this one I think unless you have any other ideas. The thing that drives me nuts is I just rewired a 37 foot yacht in 3 voltages, all the electronics you can immagine and the diesel engine, hit the on switch and everything worked... A car is simple by comparison except they hide all the relays, put the fuse box where it is a pain to get into, use crap connectors, crap wire... I cant believe it ran longer than a year off the lot! Hope you have another idea! Thanks

I still think you should check the battery cables/grounds/etc (don't overlook corrosion bleed down in the cables.)

Have you monitored battery voltage, and voltage further down the system when you try this.

I'm not sure how helpful the book will be. If all connections are confirmed good, you'll probably need to disconnect things one by one to find what is shorting (a good helper would make this go much faster). Start with the things that are easy to get at. Closely inspect the relays and fuse box, something may show signs of getting hot there.

By the way, what is pizo?

The small pizo buzzer can operate on very small voltage, I would definatly start with an alt/battery test then carefully examine the wires and connections. A battery cable can get corroded 1/2 way down and will look like a bulge in insulation.

1993 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Won't Start When starting No pattern

Car worked just fine. used the car, came home, went to leave 1/2 hr. later and it would not start! Has 140k miles, 3.0L 12v engine A/T. The local mechanics guess is the ingition power transistor or coil, or both. He is not a Mitsubishi dealer. I replaced the fuel filter and jumped (as per chiltons auto book)the fuel pump with the ignition off----runs fine! But when I turn on the ignition switch the pump does not run. I tested the fuel pump relay (engine control relay as show on the scematic) and it passed the three tests in the book.
??Whats the problem?? the igition or fuel pump wiring?

I would like to test the ignition power transistor and coil but don't know how.

Im not sure this statement went through so I will repeat. I would like to test the ignition power transistor and coil but don't know how. could you help?

use an ohmeter, put the leads on the connectors of the coil turn on ignition, Be careful might get zapped, check the reading, if you get one, could mean only you are getting power, turn igntion off, check ohmeter again, no reading at either trial means the module is bad, and same for coil

and of course the obvious that I forgot to enter, the wiring to ignition module and or coil is loose or damaged

your answer is not clear to me. but here is what I did. I tested between the terminals of the plug that goes to the coil and got a no continuity with the ignition on and some continuity with it off. when I tested the coil unpluged from the incomming leads and got a reading between the two terminals. I also get a reading through the coil of @ 11 ohms from either terminal and the output side of the coil. with the coil connected to nothing and out of the car---I get a reading of 24 ohms between the coil bracket (the metal loop that passes through the windings of the coil) and either of the two input terminals. So is the coil and the power transister both bad?

I did not understand your terminology. If you could just answer yes or no to my reply I would appreciate it. I clicked the ok button so you could get paid today after not hearing from you, thinking thats why you will not responed. So if you would please help me? Thanks in advance for your help! e-mail= [redacted] "

I replied in email and never heard back, it has been 5 months????

1993 Mitsubishi Montero Ignition System   

I have a 93 Montero RS 3L v6. Last year it suddenly would not start. I had it towed to the nearest repair facility that diagnosed a faulty ECU. It was replaced with a refurbed unit and it seemed to have fixed the problem. Then, one day as I was driving, the engine just shuts off and I had to limp to the side of the road. I try restarting and it does, momentarily, then shuts off again. After several restarts I make it
home where it sits for several weeks while I try to figure out what to do next. Consequently the battery
goes dead and after a charge it starts and runs fine
for several weeks. Now it's shutting down while
driving again but I discovered that if I disconnect
the battery for a while it will reset and drive fine
for a day or two. I sent the ECU back to be checked out and it seems to be OK. I want to sell this thing
so please help.

Hello, Have you tested fuel pressure? The pump may be overheating and stopping. After a cool down period it will work again and the cycle repeats.

If not fuel related you will need to know when the condition is present if you have spark.

Roger

I will look into that, but my feeling is that it is an electrical issue. A tech told me about the possibility of the distributor or cam sensor being the problem.

It may well be electrical. Checking for spark when the condition is present will be helpful.

What engine please? Carb, or fuel injection?

Roger

It has the 3.oL fuel injected.

Roger, it must have spark because it restarts almost instantly, will idle at about 2000rpm for a few seconds then shuts off. this goes on for about eight or ten attempts to start until it either runs well enough to get me home or I disconnect the battery and try again. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the right front kick panel where the ECU is just before it shuts off.

Thank you. Let me know what you find when the condition is present and tests for spark and fuel pressure are completed.

I want to help,

Roger

Roger, I have no way of diagnosing my fuel pressure when I'm broken down on the freeway. Nor do I have access to expensive electronic equipment to test for spark. All I know is that it starts again after it shuts off. That to me says it's getting spark and fuel.

I suspect that the fuel pump works until the pump motor gets hot, then stalls. When let stand the pump motor cools enough to run again. Cycle repeats. Soon it will totally fail.

If you do not have access to test equipment please tell me how I can help?? No test equipment is needed to test for spark.

Do you plan to fix this yourself?

Roger

I am in the automotive trades business but not a mechanic per se. I do try to fix what I know but my experience with difficult diagnoses like is that when I seccumb to a dealership or certified repair facility to fix the problem, I get charged diagnostics time whether it's necessary or not. Then it usually comes down to a huntch as to what the problem is and we start throwing parts at it until it's fixed or the cost of parts and labor exceed the value of the car. Yes, I would like your help because so far it's only costing me $20.00. In responce to your suggestion that it may be the fuel pump makes sense except that it can happen almost immediately after a cold start. I never mentioned this but this is a well maintained 125,000mi car getting all scheduled maintenance.I've not driven this car much over the last year and a half because I want to sell this thing. I don't know if it's relative but I have experienced quirky electrical phenomena like the seat belt warning light came on even when the belt was latched. Then that went away. Also my 4wd lights flashed on and off for a while then fixed itself. Sometimes the car would have a rapid idle in the 2[redacted] rpm range for a few days then correct itself. Does any of this help? If I replace the fuel pump and it doesn'y fix the problem what is the next step?

There should be a place locally where you could rent a fuel pressure guage. My experience is to attach a fuel pressure guage to the fuel rail and then tape the guage to the windshield where you can watch it.

As the car is driven the guage can be monitored to see what the pressure does.

As for testing spark- when the engine has died and doesn't want to start try pulling one spark plug wire off and see if when the engine is cranking you can hear or see spark jumping to ground.

Roger

OK Roger, I think you're on the wrong track but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and do what you suggest this weekend and let you know what happens.

Something happens that causes the engine to die. It loses spark or fuel. I've offered sound diagnostic suggestions to help you pin point the problem.

Go ahead and release the question and get another opinion as to what to do. I won't be offended and you deserve every edge to effect a timely repair.

I thank you,

Roger

My car breaks down, restarts, breaks down again.

Next time the Mitsubishi quits try to determine if it is fuel or spark related.
On the metal fuel line,close to the throttle body is a capped schader fitting (it looks like the tire valve stem)Momentarily press the valve to see if there is fuel pressure.Try to have a small bottle of fuel at hand.If you put a few ounces of fuel in the throttle body and if it starts and runs a few seconds, then we can assume the engine is getting spark.If it does not run, then no spark.
Fuel injection motors are quite complicated, as you surmised.Getting it scanned for codes would be a gfood idea, and that can be done with it running or not.
If you are in the automotive Trades then you hopefully have access to a Haynes Shop Manual (about $14) That way if the scan indicates a cam or crank position sensor, then you can easily find it and replace it.

1991 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Malfunction When idling Always

My montero idles low and really rough and sometimes stalls on take off. It seems to run fine on the highway. I have replaced the Mass air flow censor and have had the timing checked two mechanics cannot tell me what the heck is wrong. I'm ready to set it on fire, HELP.

What you need to check is the idle speed motor. It should be removed and inspected. If there is build up on the pintle and passageway (likely will be) try cleaning it and see if this restores proper idle.

Also make sure there are no air leaks after the MAF sensor.

I removed what appears to be an idle control valve? or it could be the motor (based on book). I cleaned it and then turned the key on to listen to it and it vibrated for a few seconds and then went off. I started the car and let it idle and it still idled rough (up and down), when i applied the gas it was sluggish and back-fired a bit but as it warmed up it responded better.

Yes, same thing.

Has the egr valve been checked to make sure it is not hanging open slightly?

I have the 3.0L and I don't think I have a egr valve. But, I was messing with the vehicle last night and have found that when the barrel that holds the mass air flow is disconected, but still pluged in the vehicle responds much better and idles normal. When I restrict the flow of air to the intake it runs so much better. when I put every thing back it runs like crap. I replace the mass air flow with a reconditioned one was it necessary to reset something? Is there some type of air flow restriction mechanism that may have fallen off? Does any of this make sense?

Where are you disconnecting the air hose, between the MAF sensor and the engine or the MAF and the breather?

Check thoroughly for vacuum leaks.

You can disconnect the negative battery cable for ten minutes to reset the computer.

I'm disconnecting it between the MAF and the engine. When I do this on the initial starting (cold) it starts well. As the engine warms up I reconnect it and restrict the air flow and it runs well. When I replaced the MAF I didn't know you had to reset anything.

Okay check thoroughly for vacuum leaks and get back to me.

alright all of the hose appear to be in good shape and no leaks were detected. I worked on it some more today and had it running fairly well it still idles a bit rough and when I take it out on the road it is slugish and misses a bit. The warmer it gets the rougher the idle. I got some air intake cleaner and cleaned some of the ports in the air take. This thing is really pissing me off.

If it runs good when accelerating at higher speeds this would indicate fuel pressure is okay.

The TPS- throttle position sensor- is a possibility.

In darkness look under the hood to see if there any of the plugs wire/coil/etc are arcing. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

hello me again. fiddled with the tps and really no major difference. when i started it cold it ran really rough, but i unpluged the mass air flow (maf) and it ran well. before unplugging maf it had little power, but after unplugging maf the power returned and it idled well. Is this strictly a problem with the maf or is it indicative of something else. As I mentioned I replaced the maf with a reconditioned one at the tune of $300. Why does it run better with the maf unplugged? thanks for any help.

1990 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Failing When starting When cold

Problem only occurs in very cold weather 15 to 25 degrees. Engine starts and rarely stalls but misses and must warm up for a while before it stops missing. Also there is a noise that sounds like air passing over an opening,it happens even after warmed up in cold weather while driving; its not a sharp whistle but a low groan. Never have problem except with the idle at other times of year(idle seems to be high on starting and fluctuates).

Hello, take a good look at all the vacuum hoses that connect to the intake manifold. Use a mirror and a good light. Look at each hose all the way around it's connection. Follow the hose and check the path and the other end's connection. Look for cracks, brittle and hardened or split hoses or perforation. You may be hearing a vacuum leak. If the hoses all look servicible, then the intake manifold may be leaking. Can you connect a vacuum gauge to the intake somewhere and see how much and how steady the reading is?

Roger

1990 Mitsubishi Montero Ignition System   

turns over but won't start, replaced coil and ecm on help. mfi relay tests good,distributor tests good

Distributor tests good, does this mean you have spark to the spark plugs?

If you have spark it is time to test the fuel pump. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you initially turn the key on and during engine cranking? This would be easier to test if you had a fuel pressure gauge. If you do not hear the pump run or have pressure, the fuel pump may be bad. Check this by testing for power to the fuel pump. If you have power to the pump during engine cranking and the pump don't operate, it is time for a new pump.

no spark from distrib , it rotates and i get the voltage drop and increase from the pick up wires comeing out of the position senceor

Check for Key On battery positive voltage to the ignition coil.

I assume the check engine light is coming on when you first turn on the key, indicating the ECU (computer) is powering up.

yes it is, broke down and bougth a ign control today for 75 dollars and that fixed it

1990 Mitsubishi Montero Ignition System   

Engine won't start when damp or wet conditions.

Check and/or replace the distributor cap/rotor and wires.Common are weak spark plug wires.Test with ohmmeter

1990 Mitsubishi Montero Ignition System   

my truck won't start due to the coil only sparks one time when the switch is turned on,then no more as the car is turning over but turn switch off and then on it will spark one more, i have replaced the dist,coil and other electronnics mounted on the coil bracket

The first thing you must do is remove the distributor cap and can confirm the rotor turns during engine cranking? Let me know and we'll continue.

yes it turns as i crank the engine, because thats how i turned the dist. to replace rotor button.

Okay, check for Key On positive voltage to the coil. Do you have it?

yes i get voltage,but what is kind of odd is i get 12-14 when it is not plugged into the coil but only 7-8 when plugged in, and i never loose power or ground as the engine is cranked.

The positive feed should maintain battery voltage (less resistance). Trace the wire backwards and recheck voltage.

1989 Mitsubishi Montero Engine   

I replaced the head gaskets, manifold gaskets, timing belt, etc. on my 1989 v6 EFI Montero. The vehicle has 215k miles and ran very well from cold to hot and through all speed ranges. The MPG ranged from 17-20. The repairs were conducted to stop the various water and oil leaks. All EFI connections were unplugged and fuel disconnected but not tampered with. Since the work, the engine is underpowered at startup and acts as if more choke is needed (if this were carbureted). Once the engine is warm it is still slightly underpowered, the way an engine feels if the timing is not correct or the advance is off. These have been checked. The MPG is now in the 13-15 range.
Wondering if this is an ECM problem (from disconnecting the system) or if I screwed up something obvious.

You may have a sensor problem, especially if the check engine light comes on.

After all these repairs, you want to make sure the engine is mechanically capable of full power. A compression test will give a strong indication of mechanical health. Test thoroughly for vacuum leaks also and recheck vacuum line routing.

Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and reconnecting will reset the computer. Some aspects of the system go through a 'relearning' period, in at which time performance can suffer, but this should be have passed by now and shouldn't have been so severe. All that said, it is unlikely that you damaged the computer (unless you unplugged the computer while the computer was on or shorted wires to the computer, unlikely.)

Does your engine have a map sensor or a mass airflow sensor?