Nissan Altima

2007 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

brake lights will not go off, tried new switch and that's not it. had to pull wires out of brake lights or battery will run down.

This is a 2007? This problem should be under warranty and the dealer should fix it free of charge.

no, this is a 1996, don't know why it came up with wrong year

Okay, does the brake lights go out if you manualy activate the brake switch (with your fingers)?

Check in the fuse/relay box to see if these have a brake light relay.

NO

My wiring diagram doesn't show a relay being used. Fuse #18 (15 amp) in the fuse box sends power to the stop lamp switch. The stop lamp switch toggles power on and off to the brake lights. Unplug the switch, do the lights go out? If yes, it appears you have a defective switch. Easy to test if you have an ohm meter (continuity tester).

2006 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am receiving 2 trouble codes- P0745 and P1605. The car moves very sluggish, and appears stuck in 2nd gear. The solenoid itself tests fine when a direct line is connected. When the line is connected directly, the gears shift, but you can tell that something is wrong (takes a LONG time to downshift from first to 2nd) My friend drove my car through a huge puddle, and although we have found and corrected most of the electrical problems, this one seems to be the most elusive. This is an automatic Nissan Altima GXE 1996

This is a 1996 Nissan Altima GXE (NOT a 2006!!!) Sorry, and thanks.

If you clear the codes, which comes back first?

Have you cleaned, dryed and inspected both ends of connectors at transmission and computer, etc? It take a lot of time to cover everthing and that is usually what is needed after water instrusion.

How are you connecting a direct line to the solenoid?

I should also stress the importance of thoroughly checking all fuses.

Part of the problem comes from the fact that I do not have a schematic of the electrical system... Maybe that isn't necessary. I cleared the codes and P1605 is the first one that comes out. I connected the solenoid directly to the battery to see if the solenoid itself was working...it is working (well better, but not perfect), but if I take away the direct connection, the car stays in 2nd gear, the OD light does not come on at all, and the car gets very heavy. I checked all of the connections, and they are all connected. I think it is a fuse somewhere...

Check the fuse for sure. If you find a blown one, only replace it once (if it blows again the short will need to found).

I'll see if I can find a diagram for you.

Thank you. Part of the problem is locating the harnesses and sensors and relays in order to test them.....

Copy and paste the following links ito your address bar-

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1b/65/9c/[redacted] d801b659c.jsp&eraseCrumbs=YES

The above sites contains repair information with some wiring diagrams.

http://www.acrobatfiles.com/result-1996-nissan-maxima-repair-cd-rom.html

http://pdftown.com/Pdf-eBook/Nissan.html

http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/

Also try the above links for free download to see if they have anything matching your car.

well... none of those had ANYTHING for a nissan Altima. I feel like this is some big secret or something. I just want to fix my car... you know?

You need to check the wiring from the PCM (main computer) to the transmission control module. I don't have the schematics to share on these. It would be best if you bought a repair manual (factory, not haynes or chiltons) or online subscription that will have the information on your car.

I wish I had it to share with you don't have the 96 in my library. You really need a complete manual of your own to do pinpoint testing, although there is a limit to what you can do without a Nissan scanner.

http://www.eautorepair.net/pricing.asp?VID=

I haven't use this service but it is Mitchel service information which is usually decent at about ten dollars per week.

www.alldatadiy.com/

Alldata is sometimes called 'somedata' by the pro's but is quite good for most jobs. Cost is about 25 dollars for a one year subscription (more than I'd pay).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-ALTIMA-Service-Manual-Guide-FACTORY-1[redacted] _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34229QQihZ013QQitemZ[redacted] QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

If you catch the above item quick enought it is cheap right now.

Search Ebay.com for 'Nissan Service' and 'Nissan Repair' to find repair cd/dvd's. These have a wealth more information than the 15-20 dollar paper manuals and can often be bought for around ten dollars. Shop around, if you are lucky will find a factory repair cd/dvd (these are the same information your Nissan dealer uses and cannot be beat).

Thank you I will look into it.

2006 Nissan Altima Drive Train / Driveline   

altima auto-transmission problems: My car wont accelerate while engaged in reverse.. it accelerates in drive but seems like its not shifting properly. while driving, it also sounds like it works harder going past 40 mph.

First the fluid must be inspected.Simply looking at dipstick can help. What you are looking for is clear cherry red fluid. The best way to inspect is to remove transmission oil pan (easy to do at home)
What you are looking for in the bottom of the pan is sediment.If there is lots=bad transmission.If there is any metallic particles (use magnet)then transmission requires rebuild. If you are replacing pan, replace filter.Pan gaskets and filters are readily available.

what could be the cause of this problem? we towed/pulled the car in nuetral a good distance... before it was towed,the car was driving fine. (we towed it because there was a new key made,and the keys have some sort of computer chip.. long story short. we were using the original key to start it and it wasnt starting for nothing.. with no knowledge about the same keys and differ comp chips.)

Towing the car (even in neutral) quite bad as their are still parts moving inside the transmission, and as the front oil pump is not working when towed...bearings and such can be damaged during such a tow.
Probably mentioned in owners manual...the towing part.

2004 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have been having problems with the fuse blowing for my tail lights. I have had it worked on and they thought they found the short and fixed the wire. They worked for 6 months and then started blowing fuses again. The mechanic had but a 30amp fuse instead of a 10amp. I didn't replace the fuse, just left the bad one in until I could get it to the shop.

2 days ago i was headed to work and started smelling something electrical burning. Headed back to my house (1/2 mile) and finally the brake light came on in the instrument panel. Parked the car and now it will turn over, but not fire/start. I think its a safety feature and need to know how to override so I can get it to the shop. ANY advice would be great!

First, there is no override on that system. If I were there I would first find the repair that was previously done and check for open wires/shorts.Then ensure the battery is fully charged.Close to the battery there will be a black plastic box (lh of battery about 2 inches x 8 inches) Pop the cover off and you will see some main fises.Ensure they are all good.If they are, there is not much else you can do. than have it towed.

2003 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise When idling Always

When fully braked there is a clicking sound. Today the car wouldn't start at all, the battery went dead. Then the car had a clicking noise for several minutes. I put a new battery in and for the moment is running fine. Next week I'm taking it to get looked at, what could the problem be.

well it sounds like you have taken care of the starting problem.. Batteries generally only last about 2 years. But it is a good idea to have the system rechecked just to make sure the alternator is OK. As far as the clicking noise goes are you able to provide more info on the conditions surrounding this? Need to try to determine if it is suspension related or brake related.

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

2003 Nissan Altima Ignition System   

I bought my car to the shop 3 times because my car was not idling right and would act as though it wanted to stop while driving occasionally also would barely move after being at a red light for a while then it would just get a burst of energy a shoot out. Please tell me someone else had this problem because the dealership can't seem to help after $800 spent.

Could it be something with the air system.

I am assuming that someone checked all the filters, and checked if the cat converter partially plugged.(if air can't get out , it cannot get in)
Possible water in gas?Or obstruction in gas tank on fuel inlet.
Have someone plug in a Scanner such as a Snap On one and take it for a road test with scanner still hooked up.
That way, a good tech can watch the air/fuel delivery as well as ignition and sensor operation while rolling.

I know that the technicians went on a road test but don't know if they had the scanner hooked up to the care while doing so. The car is in the shop again running to bad for me to chance driving, still waiting for an update from the techs from the dealership, I personally think that they are at a loss. I will ask them if them if they did and if not I will suggest it any suggestions is appreciated.

2001 Nissan Altima Engine Vibration When braking Always

Engine vibrates and feels as if the car is about to stall whenever I am breaking at stoplight or parked. Used to happen only when hot and waiting at stoplight but now happens all the time.

Hello, Rough idle can be an electrical misfire, a clogged fuel injector, or a vacuum leak.

What engine do you have, please? How many miles? Does the "Check engine" light come on while driving?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi, thanks for responding. engine is a 4-cylinder; i'm at 72,000 miles and I get my oil changed as needed but haven't gotten a tune up or changed my transmission fluid; i plan on doing this soon. i had followed the maintainance schedule recommended by the manufacturer at the dealershipm up to 45,000 miles but stopped because it was getting pricey. check engine light does not come on, however.

Thank you for the information. I doubt your car needs a tune-up or trans fluid change, yet. Does your owner's manual suggest these tasks prior to 100,000 miles?

No check engine light leads me to believe your car is still meeting emissions standards it was designed for. That would start me looking at all the vacuum line connections at both ends of each tube's length for cracks,loose fit, or disconnected lines.

I'd also want to run the engine with the hood up at night to watch for any unwanted spark jumping from a spark plug wire.

Can you see if there is any oil standing around the spark plugs that would cause the spark to short down the outside of the spark plug? And if you remove the spark plug wire from each plug, can you see any vertical lines on the spark plug (white part) that show signs of carbon tracking? That would indicate a short, also.

If all the above is in order, consider flushing the fuel injectors.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Hi Roger,

I had my uncle work on my car this past weekend and he ran the checks that you suggested. Sure enough, there was a spark that came from under the hood. He took it to Autozone and had the engine hooked up to one of those machines that will read the engine codes. Turns out one of the cylinders is not firing properly. It may be the fuel injector or a computer problem; hopefully it is just the fuel injector that needs to be fixed or replaced as I understand that a computer problem would be more expensive and more of a headache.

What are your thoughts? Thanks.

No fuel injector will cause a spark you can see at night when looking at a running engine. That spark IS the misfiring cylinder and either the plug wire or the rubber boot at the end of the wire allows the spark to jump instead of fire the cylinder. Check that out, I believe you are on to something.

Please advise,

Roger

How are you doing with this car, please?

Roger

After replacing fuel injector, spark plugs, fuel filter, the problem still persisted... the service engine light actually came on after all this. My uncle then thought that it might be a gasket inside the engine (injector gasket maybe?) that was causing this. Since we doesn't have the manuals or any experience with Nissan engines, we ended up having to take it to a friend who was a licensed Nissan mechanic who worked on it for a day... it wasn't the part that was expensive, it was the labor as it was a hard-to-reach part to replace. We got it replaced for $400 but I know if we took it to the dealer it probably would have cost twice that much.

Thanks for all your help... this issue just got resolved two days ago.

2001 Nissan Altima Engine   

In the winter when I first started my car, it had a whining noise that got louder when I accelerated. I suspected because it was the coldest days of the year thus far. Now that it's warmer, the noise is louder when I accelerate and idle. Today the squeaking is now combined with what sounds like something rubbing against another and its ridiculously loud when I accelerate.

Have you checked the belts and idler pulley?

I checked the drive belt - that seems to be fine. I need to clarify, the rubbing noises sounds like a high pitched whir like "arrrr" at a higher octave (I'm trying here heh)so I don't think its a rub. The squeal transitions into the whir after running my car for a few minutes now. I don't know where the idle pulley is (I checked my troubleshooter and it doesn't have it listed)

I'm trying here too.The noise you discribe, if I'm uderstanding correctly,most commonly comes from a belt driven area(i.e. power steering pump,A/C,waterpump,idler)Check the fluid in the steering pump.If it is low fill it to level.The idler pulley is also known as a belt tensioner.Follow the belt to the pulley that dosnt'drive any of the above mentioned.

2001 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

At times when I am trying to start my car it will not start. When I mess with the cables on the battery it will start again changing the radio to 12:00. This morning I was driving my car and getting ready to pull off the freeway in the exit lane (stop and go) when I stopped my car it turned off, my hazards where not working when my car turned off in drive. I placed my car in park messed with the battery cables again and my car started right up. I have a brand new battery and have clean calbles. Could this be an electrical issue?

It is an electrical issue. Your cables are not tightly connected or this problem could not be "fixed" by messing with the cables.

Roger

Thank you!

You are welcome. Does the battery have top post, or side post connections?

If top post be sure the cable connector is open enough to be slid or tapped down onto the post so the retainer bolt will tighten the connection properly.

One should not be able to moved a tightened cable connection by hand.

Have I answered your question? If so, please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

Do you need something else on this question? If not please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

2000 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always

My temp gauge jumps from cold to warm and back all the time. At times when I turn the car off the fan keeps running, but the temp gauge never runs hot. Also the outside temp here in Philly has been in 20 to 30.

When was the last time you changed the thermostate?? I recommend starting with a new one. Let me know. AL

1999 Nissan Altima Drive Train / Driveline Failing Happens sometimes 

My 1999 nissan altima will shift into reverse when I first start the vehicle. After that it is a hit miss situation. If I shut the engine down and wait about a minute to restart it it go into reverse. I don't seem to have any problems in drive. Your help would be appreciated Thank You Terry

It sounds like your linkage needs a minor adjustment. How mechanical are you. Let me know and i can give you more details. AL

I have tried playing with the gear shift but that doesn't help. One transmission mechanic took it for a ride and said the problem was internal but he never put it up on the rack to see if there was a linkage problem. Another mechanic suggested that I take it to a dealer and have the solenoids checked. What do you think?

Hello, What sort of mechanic would take this car for a ride when the car has a problem getting into reverse? Was that relevant?

Your transmission is electronically controlled. It is most wise to see a specialist that has the scanner and trouble shooting equipment to pin point the problem. Proper equipment can command the solenoids to function manually, or simply monitor the solenoids to determine if they follow instructions from the car's computer. This will minimize your risk of service you do not want.

The man that knows how to change the fluid and filter on your car's transmission is not qualified (unless he is a specialist with training, equipment, and experience) to do much more than "guess your problem" from what he has heard fixed other cars.

Respectfully,

Roger

1998 Nissan Altima Brake System  When braking Always

replaced the passenger side brake light, still is not coming on. ?

The first thing you need to do is remove the bulb and inspect the bulb holder for corrosion/damage. Also try wiggling the wires going to the bulb holder with bulb installed and brakes on, to see if you have a bad wire.

Ive done both of those. The "3rd" brake light in the window is not coming on either.

Hello, With the brake pedal pressed do you have 12 Vdc on the Red/Grn wire at the socket connectors for the R/R brake light and the high mount brake lights?

Does your car have the rear spoiler?

Roger

1998 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My car is getting up there in years and just hit the 100,000 miles mark . however over the last 2 years i have notices a whiney noise started to delvelop. Its most loud when the car first starts and sounds like its coming from the front of the engine. I thought it might be the alternator. I havent been driving the car recently due to a company car. The car has kinda been sitting and the battery died. I jumped the car and drove around abit for about an hour and let it sit while on for about an hour . The next day the battery was dead. Do alternators make whiney noises before they go out all the way, or could this be something else. I want my car to start working again.

Hello, An alternator operating at high output will whine.

A dead battery will not charge from the alternator alone. If the battery has a problem the alternator may have been whining from the load that was not resulting in building the battery state of charge. The battery is not taking a charge.

A good maintenance-free battery when in a low state of charge needs a 40 - 60 amp thirty minute "shock charge" to wake it up. Then up to 24 hours charge at a 10 amp trickle charge will bring the battery to full charge.

From here a good alternator can easily run the car's systems and have enough reserve to keep the battery charged as well.

Drop by an auto parts store where they will test your battery and alternator for serviceability. You can watch the test and determine what you'll do with their recommendation.

One other thought, Jump starting the car and driving the car or letting it set and run puts what is called a surface charge on the battery. A surface charge will self disipate in a short time. Especially in cold weather. A surface charge will not go to the reserve of the battery's cold cranking amp rating (CCR).

Any help?,

Roger

1998 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Oil is leaking from somewhere onto the alternator. This causes the alternator wires to burn out, and the car loses power and dies. I've had two new alternators put in in the last thirty days. Where is the oil coming from? The mechanics say they POURED a handful of oil out of the last alternator. The engine is not leaking oil anywhere else. Thanks so much, Barbara

Hello, The alternator is directly below the upper radiator hose. Any chance it is coolant leaking into the alternator?

Has the engine been washed so the leak source can be identified? That would be my first move on this one.

Roger

It is definitely NOT coolant, it is definitely oil. And there's nothing above the alternator.

What about washing the engine and then running at idle on a lift if necessary to identify the source?

The leak could be caught up in the airflow from the cooling fan and blown over the front of the engine.

Roger

How are you doing here? Please update.

Roger

1997 Nissan Altima Engine Making Noise When shifting Always

Hi, On my 97 Altima when transmission is switched to drive there is a sort of chest-like howling noise in the engine compartment. When car starting to move it lowers but when stopped and in gear it's quite audible. Also when turning on heater you can hear significant increase in the noise. Turning steering wheel fast left-right (stopped, in gear) lessens the noise. Thanks for you responce

Any luck here? I've waited awhile but it doesn't seem that others are picking up on the question...

Roger

nope, I guess I wil have to take it to the shop for a check up

Thanks

For all the ways you can effect this noise, the one thing I suspect to be in common is the fan motor for your heat/air. If you pull the fuse for the heater will the noise go away? I wondered if the fan blower cage spins horizontally and is gyroscopically offset by "rocking" the car's vertical attitude by movement, the fan motor bearing would "load" from the weight of the cage and may be sounding off.

Roger

Roger, I did as you suggeted in the first reply and tried to locate the noise with the help of my buddy, and interesting thing is that noise is not audible when the hood is open and you stand in front of the car, but is quite obvious when you're inside the car. and it sounds like it come from lower part ofthe firewall. I was just wondering if you know anything about any problems with front differential?

Nope, I not aware of a common transaxle problem for your car. If pulling the fuse for the blower motor did not eliminate the noise, then can you have the motor mounts checked. The engine moves with torque changes and a mount that is broken can allow a sound to be transmitted through the engine cradle.

Still thinking about this one,

Roger

Will you please update or close this question?

Thank you,

Roger

1997 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

I had a problem with the alternator and it was replaced, some times the break and battery lights would come on at the same time and just go off on their own, a day after that all my elecetrical stopped working except for my headlights.

Check the connections at the alternator. Connections should be clean and tight. Look for any signs of damage to the wires.
Also check the fuses.

Forgot to mention, the battery should have been disconnected for this repair. Thoroughly inspect the battery terminals, etc.

witch fuses should I check and where are they located?

http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/

This site has wiring diagrams among other information.

Did you install the new alternator? If the battery is good (indicated by brightness of headlights) it's likely there was a mistake made during installation.

1997 Nissan Altima Engine Stalling When idling No pattern

The engine stalls when either idle or pulling up at a Stop sign. Happens unpredictably. No pattern in terms of hot/cold or heavily loaded/lightly loaded engine (with AC running or not). Also at times, the car feels like it's dragging even when I gas it on a flat streetch of road, and then suddenly jumps forward. This is an automatic transmission. The stalling and the dragging problems seem to happen at the same time.

Does the check engine light come on at anytime while the engine is running?

When was the last tune-up: new fuel/air filter, spark plugs and wires, etc?

Does this problem happen often enough so diagnostics could be performed while the problem is happening?

I bought this car two months back and started getting this problem only in the last few weeks. I don't know about the last tune-up, but the spark plugs and wires were replaced recently (only about 5-6 months back). The "Service Engine Soon" light is not on, so can't pull error codes. Let me know what other information you need.

To answer your second question.... the frequency of occurrence seems to be increasing, so I think diagnostics CAN be done because now it is happening at an average of once every time I drive.

Try cleaning the throttle body and idle speed motor (idle air control) pintle and its passageway. Let's make sure this is functioning ok before we move on.

I got all of those checked as possible reasons by a mechanic. He even replaced the IAC valve, but that didn't make the problem go away. The stalling problem is quite erratic now. It hasn't showed up in the past 36 hours. Do you have any further suggestions?

Have him clean the MAF sensor.

Also have him run your VIN to see if there any 'Flash' updates for your cars computer that address this problem.

1997 Nissan Altima Ignition System   

I changed an engine in a 1997 nissan altima 2.4 old motor threw a rod but drove in. Put new engine in now wont start no spark and no check engine light when turn key on. I checked all my connections cleaned and tightened all grounds i could find. Also my scan tool will not get me into the computer to read it. Do you have any suggestions

Two things either tap on the starter Located under the air intake rubber tube with long screwdriver or metal pipe or rod. while some one is turning the key to crank see if the starter responds.


If not your ignition electrical switch may be defective. Not as expensive as a starter the electrical switch is easy to install and plug in. Starter you'll need 14mm socket and universal joint 1/2" ratchet and 17mm universal joint socket some plyers and 12 mm open end wrench. Do disconnect the battery first.

i do have crank but no spark and no check engine light when turn key on could it really be ignition switch like i said ran before i changed engines

The crankshaft position sensors go bad on these a lot - which produces the ignition signal.

I assume you checked for spark at the spark plug level right? If so, you need to trace the no spark condition back through the ignition system. Next step is to check your coils, plug wires and distributor for spark, in that order. Next check the main relay. A bad main relay won't have spark on many cars. Listen to the low whine of the fuel pump in the rear seats or the gas filter nozzle and take notice of the unusual activity of the Check Engine Light (CEL). The CEL light should come (followed by the whine) and then turn off. If the CEL light comes on and stays on with the key switched ON then this is the result of no power to the ECU or some other fault. Next check the ignition switch. Normally you should have no less than 9V while cranking at the coil's positive terminal if your ignition switch, fuse or other connections are working properly.

i changed distrtibutor off of old engine thinking one from junk yard was bad still no start i do not have a check engine light or can not access computer from my scan tool

Replace crank shaft position sensors..It will mostly fix the problem in your case..

Please accept my nswer if satisfied..

The check engine light not coming on is key here. The means the computer is not powered up. We will assume not just a bad bulb as your scan tool does not communicate with the computer.

The first thing to check is to double check fuses and wiring. One of these is likely your problem.

The only way a sensor could cause this is if it was shorted (not very common). Unplug any sensor you may suspect. If the check engine light functions normally (turns on with key on) you have found a shorted sensor.

Beyond this you'll need to perform voltage checks. Do you have a multimeter and wiring diagram for your car?

1996 Nissan Altima Engine Won't Start When idling When warm 

I was sitting at a stop light waiting for the green arrow, once the light turned green, I tried to step on the gas and all of the sudden my car just turned off. Now it won't start back up. Radio, lights etc all work fine. It sounds like it wants to start but will not turn over. Any thoughts?

I would first check the fuel pump. If it is not getting good fuel to the engine, you will experience your current symptoms.

1996 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my brake light and battery light just came on and have stayed on. Also over the past few days it has not been starting at random intervals and will sometimes stall wjile idling. I have changed the starter and battery in the last year.

Your alternator may have stopped working. If your battery is still strong, it is daylight, and you have an Autozone or Advance Auto nearby- they will check the charging system in the parking lot free of charge.

They will also test the alternator off the vehicle if you remove it and bring it in.

1996 Nissan Altima Fuel System   

I had a leaking hose under the gas tank. Mechanic took out the gas tank and replaced the hoses,then put the tank back in place. Driving out of the shop on the way home, it stalled up every hill. Just started chugging, then engine cut out all the way. I pulled over, re-started, then car drove fine, till next hill. Same thing. Brought to another mechanic locally and he changed the distributer assembly. Said he fixed the problem. I tried to drive out of the shop and car died going up the incline of the shop driveway. Mechanic told me to take it to my origial mechanic as he knows the car. Got the car started, took it on a test drive, worked fine. Check engine light on. Battery died check engine light went off, car ran fine. Next day, started car, stalled going up inclines. Check engine light came back on. Car warmed up a little, ran fine, I parked it, then about 5 hours later it would not start. So now its back at original mechanic.

My question, since this all started after they took apart the gas tank and replaced a couple leaking hoses, could they have put something back wrong?
thanks
please email me at nora.lane@la.gov

Hello

Sounds like something is in the gastank clogging the lines every now and then. When he took out the gas tank he prob drained the gas than put more gas in it after replacing, stiring up what was settled at the bottom.
My advice would be to try a fuel treatment (can get rid of some of the unwanted trash floating in the gas. Can pick up a bottle just about anywhere. Just read the intructions carefully. If this dont work I would take back to mechanic have him clean the tank.
Heavychevy

If you hook up one of the diagnostic computers to the port will it show where the clog currently is located?

No it will show electrical problems such as sensors and such. A good mechanic will look at the diagnostic and can tell you about where you problem may lie, just by which sensors are acting up. I would try the gas treatment first than go from there. Cars are tricky espically cars that have alot of emisions on them. The treatment will break up the sediments from the tank to the pistons. Its a good idea on older cars to do that every now and then. Keeps then clean.
Heavychevy

.

1995 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always

I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and now the Fuse for teh gages (meters) keeps blowing unexpected when driving ant any speed sometimes it will take days and sometimes even minutes. Any suggetions?

Hello, What engine do you have? And what is the reason that you replaced both the battery and alternator? What problem were you hoping to fix on the car?

Roger

Been a long time here, still need help?

Roger

I have found the problem...it was a harness that goes to the Transmision, it was shorting with the battery cable.

Thank you for the reply. I'm glad you've found the answer. Please consider closing this question and I'll move on.

Thank you again,

Roger

1995 Nissan Altima Drive Train / Driveline Sticking When shifting Always

My vehicle automatic shifter stays stuck and won't let me move the shifter from park to any other position. I apply the brakes before I try to shift but, still no luck. I started experiencing this problem when I had 17,000 miles. I now have 107,000 miles but, this time it won't move at all. Any idea what is causeing this problem?

your shift interlock switch is malfunctioning. It is located to the side of your shifter assembly. The biggest cause of malfunction is soda or coffee spilling down on it since your cupholders are right there. The switch gets jammed up with the syrupy residue. Good luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

I already went to a local junkyard and purchase the entire shifting machanism for my car. Before I go purchasing a brand new shift interlock switch from my local Nissan dealer, could there be anything else that coud be causeing this problem? I have talked with several 1994-95 nissan altima owners and they all seem to experience the same problem. I'm not questioning your expertise, I just want to make sure. After all, you know how the dealers like to stick it to people. Thank you!

there are 2 parts to your shift interlock... you have a switch near your steering column or brake pedal which (when the brake pedal is depressed) completes a circuit to the switch(actuator) located on the shifter.. If you take your console apart to where you can check for power at the (solenoid) you can figure out which end the problem is on. If you are getting power to the shifter switch (in park with your foot on the pedal, ignition on) then the shifter switch(actuator) is bad... if you do not get power to the switch(actuator)on the shifter then the switch near the pedal is bad... it is a simple circuit.. good luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

Feb 25/04 11:53AM: "there are 2 parts to your shift interlock... you have a switch near your steering column or brake pedal which (when the brake pedal is depressed) completes a circuit to the switch(actuator) located on the shifter.. If you take your console apart to where you can check for power at the (solenoid) you can figure out which end the problem is on. If you are getting power to the shifter switch (in park with your foot on the pedal, ignition on) then the shifter switch(actuator) is bad... if you do not get power to the switch(actuator)on the shifter then the switch near the pedal is bad... it is a simple circuit.. good luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech"

1995 Nissan Altima Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving No pattern

Hello,
The A/C system on our Altima started randomly blowing hot air when it should be cooling, so I took it in to have it checked. I thought it could be a low refrigerant issue. The mechanic said that all pressures are fine and holding like they should and he couldn't duplicate the problem in the shop. He said that it might be either a relay sticking or the clutch on the compressor. Should I try the relay first? Maybe the connection vibrates a little more when driving and spontaneously sticks open. GOt any ideas?
Thanks, Steve

Hi;
Try the relay First. The clutch is kind of a heavy penny. Sounds like he is got it narrowed down. Good Luck Les.

Is there a definate way to tell if it is the compressor clutch?

Hi;
If the clutch is not engaging. Disconnect the connector and check voltage to between both wires. You should have 12 volts. But it sounds like the compressor kick in for him to be able to check the pressure. I would be leaning real hard towards the relay. Thanks Les.

Thanks for the help. I may try shifting the relay a little with the A/C on to duplicate the problem. Either way, I'm going to get a new relay before a new clutch.
Thanks again,
Steve

Hi;
Try slighlty tapping it and see if that works. No problem. I'm here to try to help you out. Thanks Les.

I know I have closed the question, but do you know how much a new relay will cost me?

Hi;
The relay will be about $20.00. Good Luck Les.

1995 Nissan Altima Engine Won't Start When stopped Always

Our engine won't start on our altima. It will crank, but won't turn over. It does have spark, and it is getting fuel, but it still won't turn over. Battery is fully charged - ECM error code was reading speed sensor, but that shouldn't stop the engine from starting. Distributor is ok as well. Any ideas? Could it be the Camshaft position sensor?

When you say it is getting fuel, do you mean the fuel pump runs and you have adequate fuel pressure? Or in addition to fuel pressure you also have injector pulse (which means the injectors are turning on and spraying fuel)?

I mean the fuel pump is running, took off the hose after the fuel filter and turned over the key and fuel gushes through the filter. I checked the for an impulse on the fuel injectors with a voltage meter and the needle did not move, thinking that the ECM is not sending the proper or not sending an impulse at all for whatever reason for the fuel injectors to open up. Planning on checking the fuel pressure, any other ideas?

Also I had heard that a possible problem could be a leaky seal on the distributor. I took off the distributor cap, took off the rotor, took off the next shell of the distributor, saw oil (teaspoon or so). Did not see any oil on the impulse disk, cleaned up the inside of the shell, put it all back together and tried to start the car, sounded a little better, but still to no avail. Not sure what would cause the oil in the distributor, make sure he knows this O-ring is not the O-ring where the distributor connects to the cam shaft, but rather it is in front of that, where that shell connects to the distributor.

Will a noid light would detect if the fuel injectors were receiving an impulse, and if so, do you know what kind of noid light we need to check them.

When you check for an impulse to the injectors it's necessary to crank the engine during the test.
If there is no impulse, turn the key on. Hook the negative lead to a known good ground and the positive lead to the injector. Is the positive voltage from the ignition switch making it to the injector?
Note- the positive voltage is always on to the injector while the key is on. The ground is supplied by computer.

Be sure to check fuses!

1995 Nissan Altima All Part Groups Stalling Happens sometimes No pattern

I just drove over 500 mileswithout a problem. However, on several occasions the car will stall. It acts like a vapor lock. It doesn't matter how hot or cold the engine is. The fuel filters and air cleaner has been replaced. My wife claims she has to wait 30 min. to an hour before it start and stay running smoothly. We have had it in several garages and they are unable to find the problem. They say of course the problem needs to be re-created for them to find it. When it does it to me I pump the gas several times and try to keep it at 4000 rpms. When it first starts there is like a certain spot that it cuts out and I have to keep pumping it.

Hello, It is just good business to duplicate the complaint before a mechanic suggests a repair estimate.

Are any codes being set? Do you have access to a scanner (not a code reader) to monitor sensor feedback parameters that the car's computer is watching?

Once the condition is present it will be so much easier on your wallet to discover if the problem source is fuel or spark related.

Since pumping the accelerator seems to have an effect toward keeping it running I would want to check the voltage sweep of the throttle position sensor for dead spots.

And when the car dies and won't restart I want to know if the crankshaft position sensor is outputing ac milivolts (mV)? This sensor can "drop-out" from radiant heat, cool down and begin working again and not always set a code.

Just some thoughts,

Roger

all of that has been checked and no codes are set. it will always resart with contant pumping. for example we went to wal-mart, a 10 min drive, was inside for almost an hour. came out started it, and it died. after pumping it and getting the rpms steady it ran like new. today I drove to true value 5 min away,was inside for 10 min and it wouldn't start. after pumping and holding at around 4000 rpms it ran like nothing was wrong

The condition must be present at the time the data I talked about is being analyzed.
When you stated "all of that has been checked" was the condition present at the time of testing? If there are no codes set (current or history codes) of course all the data will read normal.

Have you driven the car to the mechanic and let him try to restart it after the car sets for the 10 or more minutes?

I'm not sure what to offer you here. I asked if you had access to a scanner...did you get to witness the tests that were done? Has the coolant temperature sensor been checked for accuracy. An inaccurate signal can cause the computer to call for an incorrect fuel mixture.

Has the fuel rail been tested to see how long it holds pressure after the engine is turned off? (leak down test)

Roger

Hello, any change in the status of this question?

Just checking in with you,

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

How are you doing with this car, please?

Roger

Hi, I'm checking in with you. Any news here?

Thanks,

Roger

I'm hoping for an update from you on your question's status.

Please advise,

Roger

1995 Nissan Altima Fuel System Malfunction Happens always Always

the engine cranks well and starts,sometimes after a few tries,after starting it may run for a few seconds to a minute or more.if i press the accelerator it will cut off.the car started out running ok sometime and others it would not start and now it won't run as described above.i have checked the fuel pressure (60lb) on the engine side of the filter which was replaced.what suggestions do you have?

check mass air flow sensor

did you find the problem

1995 Nissan Altima Ignition System   

Went to start car today as usual. But it wont start. Everything works like radio, power locks. When I turn the Key I hear something like a spark as if the spark plugs or wires are trying to start but nothing else happens.

take out the spark plugs and see if there is a brownish residue on the white part closest to the spark end if there is you could have a problem with misfiring and the computer could be triggering it not to start. If they are brown i suggest going to iridium plugs.

No they are clean and were recently replaced. They are platinum plugs. Could this have something to do with the recent sound system i had put in? But i drove for about a month without any problems.

First check for spark to the spark plugs. If you have spark you may have lost fuel pressure. One quick test you do is to spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the throttle body (or a vacuum hose) and see if the engine will temporarily start. This would prove spark and that the engine is mechanically capable of running (ie- compression, timing, etc). Start with this and let me know.

1995 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the parking lights, rear brake lights and interior lights are on when the ignition is turned off and keys is out. the battery goes dead and the car needs a jump start to start the car.

what engine do you have so I can view the right schematic?
does the lights stay on when the ignition is on and the car is running?

the lights does stay on when the ignition is on and when the engine is running. engine is KA24DE 2389CC.

chances are that the rear brake lights you see on are the rear running lights .
the problem you are experiencing could be from a shorted out headlight switch , the first thing you want to do is pull out the fuse for the headlight and see if the lights go out.
Then you want to pull out the wire connector from the rear of the headlight switch
we want to narrow down that circuit before going further

i pulled out a blue fuse from the inside the car fuse box. the lights went out to include the rear brake lights. however when i apply the brakes, the rear brake lights does not come on.

i also pulled out the wire connecter behind the headlight switch.

The reason the brakes did not work is because it is on the same fuse as the headlights.
you do have progress here we know there is a short now let's trace it back.
Were there the same results when you pulled out the light switch connector?
did the lights go out?
that will tell us a great deal

with the fuse back in, i pulled out the light switch connector but the lights are still on.

Then you have a short after the fuse and it is sending a voltage to the lights before getting to the switch, let me look at the diagram for your car and get back to you

I need ti know what number fuse was it that you pulled out asap.
This is key to finding out where the problem is.

i don't have the fuse diagram so i don't know what fuse number that i took out. but what i can tell you is that the fuse i took out is located on the left side rows of the fuse box and it's the third fuse from the top and it's blue 15 amp fuse. i hope this helps...

I am having a time finding the fusebox info right now .
WHEN YOU PULL THE FUSE CAN YOU STILL OPERATE THE HEADLIGHTS FROM THE INTERIOR SWITCH? OR ARE THE LIGHTS STILL OUT AND NO POWER TO SWITCH?

1995 Nissan Altima Engine   

I recently installed a new weapon r short ram cold air intake system to my car. However, after doing this when I first turn the car on it idles rough. The rpm gauge bounces up and down, like its having hard time breathing or something. When I drive everything is fine and acceleration is great. After driving around a bit and when I stop at a light the rpms still bounce but only a little. What could this be? I never had this problem untill I installed the CAI.

Cold air intakes sometimes do that, even on my car. We sell many and that is not an unusual complaint.With better power, mileage etc, it is a small trade off that usually goes away.

So it isn't doing any harm to the engine?

My Grand Prix has that little idle problem for aprox. 2 years, lots of power, and good fuel economy and it passes emissions testing easily.And I usually drive it quite hard... Usually there is an Air Intake Temperature sensor located in the intake tract and I was thinking of sheilding it from the cold air, or relocating it, as a test, but am too busy.

1994 Nissan Altima Engine Won't Start When starting Always

a couple of days ago i put antifreeze in my car because i drained it before and didn't want it to sit without anything in it so i put it in and afterwards i want to start it and it wouldn't start it just makes a clicking noise like it's shorting out somewhere everything else in the car still works. please help!

Sounds like the contact points on the starter are burnt. You can remove the starter and have it repaired at an automotive electrical shop for about $40.

1994 Nissan Altima All Part Groups Won't Start  Always

WILL NOT START. WAS IDLING VERY LOW FOR A WEEK OR TWO NOW WON'T START

I JUST CHANGED THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP ROTOR AND SPARK PLUGS AND DISTRIBUTOR. THE ENGINE IS GETTING POWER IT'S JUST NOT GETTING EITHER FUEL OR SPARK DO YOU THINK THE FUEL FILTER COULD BE THE PROBLEM.

Hello, Have you verified spark? Your message says you replaced the distributor, distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. Is that correct?

A fuel filter problem usually causes a no power condition on acceleration, or engine dies (runs out of fuel) and won't restart. A low idle would be rare and acceleration would be very sluggish, were the filter cause. You can remove the fuel filter and blow through it in the direction of normal fuel flow to see if it's stopped up. Little effort should be required to blow through a good filter.

How many miles on your engine? Has the timing belt been changed? Do you have compression? Are fuses good? When you first turn on the key, can you hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds to pressure up the fuel rail?

Please advise,

Roger

Are you there?

Roger

Hello? What is the status here please?

Roger

Please update the status of this question.

Roger

Please update!

Thanks,

Roger

Please update here!

Roger

May I hear from you, please? Thanks!

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Nissan Altima Engine Chugging Happens always When warm 

my 94 nissan altima running unevenly when at running temperature . recently changed whole distributor and wires ,plugs because of simular problem 4 months ago . i am at a loss of what it is this time.

First recheck your spark plugs the plug gap and wires
You may want to start with some of the basic things first alongside your tune up
try some injector cleaner in your gas.
also check around your hoses for leaks or a leaking egr valve.
The best thing you could do is run a diagnostic and see if there are stored codes
Check the intake manifold for tigtness at the bolts
Also your air filter could need changing
that should get you going in the right direction
I hope this helps Macconneck

it was condesation on spark plug wires down in head port. i cant beleive the car wash from a week ago would have trapped water that long .i dried every thing off it runs fine thank you for your help . im too use to older v-8,s.thanks again.

you are very welcom I am glad you got it going
Know the feeling of the old school engines
Macconneck

1994 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When idling Always

My car runs great and the only problem comes on idling. The rpm gauge will very slightly move up and down within a very small limited margin.I'm worried that this could be signalling.What could be wrong.

If there is no check engine light, start by cleaning the throttle body and blade along with the idle speed motor and its passageway.

Additionally check thoroughly for vacuum leaks.

If you are overdue for a tune-up, now would be a good time to do it.

1994 Nissan Altima Engine   

I recently took my car on a 4 hour road trip, keeping it in 5th gear and cruise on most of the way going about 65-70mph. When i came to a rest stop and pulled to the stop sign, i put it in 1st gear and my engine was sounding like hail hitting a tin roof, i checked all fluid levels, all of them are fine, nothing over heating. Also my check engine light has been on and off for a long time now.

Could be a timing issue. Best bet is to take it to a shop and have the codes read to see what the check engine light was all about.Some automotive parts places offer that service for free, also.
Either way, get it checked, you may be damaging your motor.

thank you. I am going to a shop tomorrow to see.

1993 Nissan Altima Heating / Cooling System Making Noise When driving Always

The right side footwell has a clicking noise that I was told is an actuator or flapper valve in the vent. I believe that everything is functioning ok at present so I would like to deactivate this device so there's no noise.

The noise source could also be the fan, or something that got into the duct work and is now making that noise, like a piece of paper that fell into a vent opening. If this is REALLY driving you 'buggy', get a manual for the car, and take the duct work apart. The actuators usually do not make any noise. If this is really the case, then the before mentioned manual is still needed to help you get into the system to correct the problem.

1993 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting No pattern

this vehical won't start and displays anti theft lit. i have no remotes, i tried useing the key in all the locks but stil in theft protection? any ideas or common problems? thanks joe

Joe, Unfortunately, you will have to go to the dealership to get your answer on this one. Go to the parts department and explain your problem and they will either provide you with a list of things to do to clear the problem or pass you to a technician that can help. You should not have to buy anything. If they push ask for the service manager. Let me know. Al

"Joe, Unfortunately, you will have to go to the dealership to get your answer on this one. Go to the parts department and explain your problem and they will either provide you with a list of things to do to clear the problem or pass you to a technician that can help. You should not have to buy anything. If they push ask for the service manager. Let me know. Al"

1993 Nissan Altima Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

My driver side front turn signal is malfuctioning. when i put a test light on it (off of positive battery post), i get a solid ground signal coming from the center part of the light socket and a blinking ground coming from the shell part of the light socket. when i use the negative battery post i get nothing off the light socket. any ideas? Thank you.

Hello, The results you have described with the test light connected to the battery positive post are indicating the bulb socket wires are cross wired and the polarity is reversed.

Has the socket been replaced? Do you get a different result when tersting the other front bulb socket?

Roger

hey thanks for the reply. i actually get the opposite on the other blinker (which does work). when i connect test light to positive battery terminal, i get blinking ground out of center of socket and solid ground out of shell of socket. shouldnt one be ground & one be power, im slightly confused...

Yes, The center contact at the bottom of the bulb socket is supposed to be powered when the bulb is illuminated. With your test light connected to the negative post of the battery and the probe end touching the socket bottom contact the test light should blink as the signal flasher functions.

The wires have been connected with the polarity reversed on the socket. Cut the wires where possible and reconnect them opposite of the way they are now. I recommend soldering the connections and wrap the splice with electrical tape or shrink wrap as needed. That should do it.

Roger

i actually think there is a bad ground now somewhere....jiggling some of the wires caused the light to work & then not work. while i did this, the blinker on the otherside also stopped working. Is there a shared ground for both these blinkers?

That is a possibility. The schematic I have only shows the black wire from each front combination light to go to ground. I often find each side of the car's wiring looms to ground on their respective sides of the radiator support. I'm not clear on a shared ground for both front lights.

I'll look for a ground distribution chart and see if I can zero in on the location.

I'm taking a friend to the VA Hospital this morning. In the afternoon I'll get back on this.

Thanks,

Roger

The Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base says the ground is behind the right headlight. It is designated as GROUND H.

Roger

i did some tests last night, turns out its the actual socket thats bad. im going to try and re-solder the sockets internal connections....besides going that route, do you know where i can get a new socket besides a bone yard? thanks again for all your help.

I find new lamp sockets at national auto parts chain stores. The wire color will not always match the car's wiring but I just verify with an ohm meter which wire in the new socket is the center contact and connect it to the wire on the car that I know pulses power to flash the lamp. That leaves the other wire to be connected to the car harness ground wire and the polarity will be correct.

I recommend the use of Shrink Wrap insulation rather than electrical tape and that the connections be soldered. The auto parts store can show you how to use Shrink Wrap. Be sure to slide the shrink wrap far enough down the wire that the heat from the solder gun will not activate it before you slide it over the newly soldered splice. Let the splice cool before you slide the shrink wrap into place then heat it with a butane lighter until it seals the splice. Don't burn it! You'll see what happens.

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

1993 Nissan Altima Engine   

One day car started "putting" after I started up, after a few minutes is began running fine. This problem began to grow so that it would take about 5 minutes before the car started running right. The last time, the car running fine, I parked it in a parking spot and 5 min. later it wouldn't start anymore. Now when I leave it alone for a day or two, it cranks but the "putting" is now JERKING and the car won't stay on for more than a few minutes, then it won't start again for a couple of days.

What could be wrong?? The mechanics can't find anything wrong with the electrical system, or the gas flow from the fuel filter. But the newly purchased spark plugs are extemely black.

The car sounds like its running very rich air/fuel mixture. That is controlled by the coolant temp sensor for the computer, and the computer also is what tells the injectors to stay open longer. Have a good tech scan for diagnostic codes.

1993 Nissan Altima All Part Groups   

My 93 altima GXE has a hard time starting when the engine is warm. It turns over for about 5-9 seconds before starting. Often you have to crank twice then it will start. It only happens when warm...First start of the day, pops off like a new car. After than is when the problems happen. Things I have replaced: Plugs, Wires, cap, rotor, flow air mass sensor.....can't seem to find it, any ideas would be great. THanks RW

RW It sounds loke the coolant temp sensor. (The one for the computer NOT the one for the guage or the cooling fans)That sensor tells the computer if the engine is warm or cold and adjusts the engine fuel mixture accordingly

I seem to be having a hard time finding the coolant temp sensor for the computer, would you have any ideas where abouts I should be be looking (please don't say the engine). I'm not to familiar with that part. Also is there any chance the O2 sensor could be going bad?

A bad o2 sensor would act bad, cold and hot.
The engine coolant sensor is located at pass side, rear of engine, under the intake manifold.There are two sensors there.The one you are looking for is under the fuel pressure regulator.The other is for the guage.If you have a digital volt meter you can test it and the O2 sensor.