Nissan Pathfinder

2001 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Hi there. my running lights wont turn on, no matter wha tI do, i checked all the fuses and none are blown. I recently installed a wiring harness for a trailer hitch. It worked just fine and my trailer turning/brake lights still work, like on my car, but no running lights go on. headlights work too.(Parking lights do not, dash lights, interior rear light do not)

Did this problem appear immediately following installment of the wiring harness for the trailer hitch?

not immediately after. I used the hitch lighting and it operated properly for about a month. the running lights worked on both the trailer and the car. a couple nights ago i popped the lift on my car, the rear interior light came on then went off quickly. I assumed the bulb had burned out but when I looked at it in the morning the bulb was fine. last time I disconnected my trailer, the running lights were working properly.

two other things that i've noticed: the LCD clock doesnt seem to be keeping time correctly. It seems to be off by anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours when i turn my car on.

When I turned my lights on before the problem, i would notice the LCD clock get dimmer (this was fine, it was usually darker outside so i figured it was on purpose) The clock no longer dims when i turn on the lights.

Hello, Do you have the USA, or the Canadian Nissan version? Wiring is different.

Roger

It's the american version. Apparently it has more than one fusebox. The fuse for the tail was blown, it was under the hood and i hadn't looked there. Thanks for your help though =)

Have you fixed it? Need anything else?

Roger

Yeah man, All fixed. I'm sure I;'ll come back asking more Q's when it blows again. Thanks!

Would you like to write All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and request a refund?

I didn't read where anyone provided you the answer to the question....your call.

Roger

sure, if you're offering =) I could use the 20 bucks. I'll buy 234234 packs of fuses.

-Pete

Pete,

Email All-Parts.com and ask for a refund. He'll review the text and issue your refund. I don't see a problem, but you must make your request known.

Mark and I are in different locations. I do not handle monetary transactions.

Where can I find 234234 packs of fuses for $20? ;)

Roger

2001 Nissan Pathfinder Drive Train / Driveline   

2001 Nissan Pathfinder was shifting hard in 2nd gear. Changed inhibitor switch and now the transmission is stuck in 1st gear. It use to shift before I changed the inhibitor switch (just hard in 2nd). Is there some releaning process I am suppose to take the vehicle through or does the tranmsission computer have to be reprogrammed?

Transmission computer should be reprogrammed.The relearn process only would work if transmission is able to shift in all gears, and a test drive then would be possible.

Bruce so it has to be taken into the dealor or do you think that a local shop would have the computer to do the reprogramming?

Adrian

Not too many small shops are willing to invest in the equipment to reprogram a Trans Controller Comp, but you might try phoning a large trans shop, locally. Dealers are a last resort (and the most expensive)

2001 Nissan Pathfinder Interior Components   

The electric motor that moves the seat forward and backward does not work. I hear a click when the switch is moved, but no motion. The other seat adjusters work fine. Any ideas?

Hello, Use the front/rear tilt motors to raise the seat up so you can see under the seat.

Locate the motor for front/rear track motion. Is the motor connector still latched in place or has it become cocked or disconnected?

Verify power is arriving at the effected motor when the switch is actuated to move the seat.

Unplug the effected motor and OHM check the terminals on the motor to see if the motor winding is open.

Please advise,

Roger

All of the connections seem firm. The motor appears to be in place - nothing looks loose. I think that power is reaching the motor as I hear a relay click when the switch is moved but I have no test equipment to verify this. Your last comment I do not understand.

If you had the benefit of an OHM meter you could check the motor for a broken winding inside.

Roger

Okay - I went out with my son and held the switch to "forward" as he pushed on the seat and it released. Now it moves but the automatic seat repositioner (moves seat back when car is turned off and door is opened) doesn't work now. I popped the switch and it seems to be connected.

Do you have the Owner's manual for instructions on how to program this exit feature?

Will the seat move back with the seat control switch?

Roger

There is really no programming - just an on-off switch. The seat does move freely under control of the motor and switch on the seat now that we got it unstuck.

I am not having any success finding information on the automatic seat repositioner.

I will continue to look and send the first thing I find that is useful.

Roger

Thank you

The manufacturer does not provide testing information to the data bases I use.

I do see that there is a Memory Seat Cancel Switch in the system and a Seat Memory Switch that has a Set Switch, a Switch 1, and a Switch 2 option for programming seat position preferrences.

I'm recommending you stop by a Nissan Dealer for a hands on tutoring of the seat functions and programming options.

There is a Left Seat Control Unit under the driver's seat that two connectors hooked up. Can you tell if the connectors are tight and no corrosion is present. Any loose or backed-out wire terminals?

Roger

I'll try to look at the connectors this weekend. The pre-set switches work fine, just the function that pulls the seat back when the door is open is not working. Right now it is not a major problem. I can get in and out of the car just fine. Thanks for your help.

Why not give the Nissan dealer in your area a call and talk to their Service Manager? He just might clear this up on the phone for you.

Roger

Decent idea but I have had nothing but problems with my dealer's service department. I've totally written them off.

I spoke to the service department at Bob Moore Nissan in Norman, Oklahoma.

They advise that the seat likely has lost memory of the exit function. He believes this is something that can be reprogrammed by a dealer tool called a Consult. A high end scan tool only dealers afford.

Since the Seat 1 & 2 options still work he believes reprogramming will get you back to normal operation.

Helm Inc. prints Owner's Manuals for a herd of models. Perhaps you can buy one from them or find one on eBay.

www.helminc.com

Roger

2001 Nissan Pathfinder Engine   

Car will overheat, but not all the time, current mechanic is testing to see if there is an exhaust leak that's causing the problem. Is there anyway to avoid big costly repair to the heads. "Both" thermostats have been replaced, tune-up done, O2 sensors on both sides replaced, mass airflow meter replaced. Started running a little "rough" around dec.'07, kind of diesel type vibration. dealership says CAT converters burned out and wont pass smog. Been reading on the net about a common fault in the exhaust manifold bolts that could possibly cause some problems

been reading more on the net about this problem but never in conjunction w/overheating. Some have said that there are faults in the manufacture of the exhaust manifolds that lead them to warp and that nissan knows of this and in some instances have paid for the repair of these "occurences". I think this warpage in the exhaust manifolds(pass. in particular) lead to the exhaust leaking into the cooling system which is causing the overheating. Let me know if I'm on the right track here because nissan, and my official nissan service center have some 'splaining to do because they knew about this fault in the exhaust system, some have said nissan almost recalled engines for this.

I cannot see a leaking exhaust manifold causing a coolant problem, But it can cause an O2 sensor to get a wrong reading and cause the air/fuel mixture to run lean, This lean condition could cause overheating. Plugged cat convertes can also cause overheating

Once and a while, but just barely, when they test the radiator and overflow for hydrocarbons it comes up positive. I also asked my mechanic specifically about the CAT converters and they told me that has nothing to do with it because of the pressure diffrences between the two systems.

If you have hydrocarbons at rad, it indicates a small hed gasket problem. Various sealers might help, but just a temporary bandaid.

I think your right. Now here's the $1,000,000 question. Could the leak in the head have been caused by the malfuntioning exhaust manifold. Could it have eventually "eaten" holes in the head gasket? Mind you it doesn't overheat all the time, the longest time that it went without overheating is a month. I'm I barking up the wrong tree here?

No, not exhaust mfld problem. Engine block is iron, head is aluminum,While they both expand and contract , they do so at different amounts. If one were to have a microscope at the head gasket, you would see some 'sliding' at the gasket surface. Manufacturers are starting to use teflon type coatings on the head gaskets to prevent the abrasive nature they are exposed to.And payng more attention the the surface finish of the head and block.Older cars did not have this problem as they had iron heads on iron blocks.

ok, was hoping I could blame it on this other prob. Now I'm just waiting for an extended warranty to "kick-in" so that I can have most of this $2,000 job covered. My mechanic wants to replace the head gasket and investigate this further. my mechanic and I are in agreement that if this were a true head gasket problem it would be overheating all the time, but as I have said it only acts this way once and a while. So they want to take it apart and really figure out whats going on so I'm having them wait to diagnose this until my extended breakdown insurance kicks-in. Thank for all your help, any other suggestions are more than welcome

2000 Nissan Pathfinder All Part Groups Making Noise When accelerating Always

when rpm hits 3000, there is a clicking/rattling noise that sounds almost like a playing card on a bike wheel. this sound also occurs occasionally when idling

Hello, Can you effect the noise by turning the a/c on and off? I'm wondering about the compressor or an idler pulley on the belt.

Roger

the sound isn't as loud when the a/c is turned off, but you can still hear it. The idling sound is almost like a bean in a tin can

To determine if the noise is the engine or an accessory that is belt driven try removing the belt and running the engine for a short time.

Is the noise gone? While the belt is off can you spin the pullies by hand and hear a rough bearing or feel looseness in the mounting of a component? Any broken mount brackets?

Turning the a/c on and off causes more stress/load on the belt tensioner so the noise may be an idler pully or the tensioner pulley.

Roger

What is happening with this one please?

Roger

2000 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Just bought a 2000 Pathfinder, 84,000 miles. For the 3rd time now, after about 30 minutes of driving, the tach, speedometer and temp gauges shut off. Fuel gauge stays OK, as far as I can tell. All other electrical components seem OK. Backlights for gauges are OK. They jumped back on once, after several minutes. Today, I stopped and shut truck off, then back on. They remained off. I've been at work today for about 40 minutes. Went outside, started truck, and they are working again. Previous owner never mentioned this quirk. (not recording mileage when on the fritz - I wonder.

Intermittent electrical problems are the most difficult to find. Your gauges have circuit boards with hundreds of solder joints. If there is just one joint that has moved and cracked the solder, it could cause the problem you described. In addition, an improper ground connection anywhere in the system could be the culprit.
All the gauges are controlled by the computer.
One thing you can do is to Scan the PCM for fault codes.
There would likely be a code stored and we can gett enough information from that to go to the next step.
The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning component.
I will need to know what engine you have to look at your modules and see if there are other posible components that can cause this problem.

Thank you for your prompt reply. The problem does seem to have a consistent pattern - after driving for about 30 minutes, the gauges stop. If it was a cracked solder joint or something similar, would'nt it happen more erratically, not consistency?

You mean I would have to pay for a mechanic to scan the ECM - and ask he/she for the codes to bring back to you - is that what you mean? Thanks.

Oh, I'm sorry, you asked for the engine - it's the 3.3 L V6 Nissan used for all the 2000 Pathfinders.

Does this happen every time you drive for the half hour with no fail?, if that is the case then it can be narrowed down to a voltage relay or contact relay a resister or even the body control setion or your PCM getting hot and shoting out.
This still should have stored a code in your cars computer that would be helpful to us in the diagnosis.
A bad solder joint could easily go out whenever and whereever it feels like it and it is not as consistent at all, there is no time line.

You can take your car to any auto=zone or a reputable auto-parts store and as a courtesy
they will scan your car free of charge , no cost to you.
they will retrieve any codes and give you the code numbers and we can take it from there.

In this line of work I make it a habit of not assumming that a carr or truk has stock engine or parts as to the information, it could save a lot of time later and embarrasment too.
Thanks

Hi again,

I will have to drive the cars for a couple more days to determine if it happens without fail. (I've only owned it for a few days). My work commute is 45 minutes, so that's a good test, to and fro. Short trips around home probably won't manefest it. I'll try to get to one of the auto stores and see if they can perform the scan. I've found some online forums that describe a similar issue with other Nissans, altimas. Nobody's really nailed it down, yet. One notable post to look at is: http://www.nissanforums.com/[redacted] -post26.html

I did the Meter Gauge/ODO Trip Diagnostic, and the gauges did what they should - all moved to a horizontal line -

Thank you for all your help; I will get back with hopefully more meaningful information after the weekend. (I'm away til Sunday).

andrew

Ok sounds good

1998 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System   

My Pathfinder has a difficult time starting. It will crank and crank and if I don't give it gas it won't start at all. You can smell gas out the tail pipe after it starts. This began as a problem when it was wet outside, now it is all the time. When the car is warm it starts right away. I suspect something in the ignition. I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap & rotor. No help. I really don't want to replace the distributor $$$ and it not be the culprit. When running everything is fine. Good power, good idle and the same fuel economy it always had - bad. Any ideas?

Try holding the accelerator to the floor, this puts the system into Clear Flood Mode, and see if it starts more quickly.

Check the fuel pressure regulator to see if its leaking fuel. Pull off the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and inspect for the presence of raw fuel (wetness or a strong gasoline odor.)

We will rule out fuel problem first. Let me know what you find.

1997 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting No pattern

My Pathfinder did not start today. Weather was cold (35-45f). I tried to jump it but only the alarm went off and kept on for a few minutes. I tried to turn it over but to no avail. Only the electrical would turn on. Last night my dashboard lights went off as well. Not sure if that is related. Any thoughts?

You may need to look in your owners manual to reset the security. Be sure to check fuses. Also try to start the engine in neutral instead of park (after the security and fuse issues are addressed).

This is what I come up with initially assuming a good battery but starter does engage and try to crank the engine (called a no-start/no crank).

Fuses are in working order. Cleaned terminals. Owners manual mentions little on the alarm issue. Cannot put it into neutral. The engine needs to turn over before it will allow me to put it into N (automatic).

However, this morning, there seemed to be some juice in the battery, probably from the attempt to jump it. Still not turning over.

You will need to check the battery in this case. If you have a voltmeter measure the battery voltage- 12.8 DC Volts is ideal. If it reads 10-11 volts or under the battery needs testing/charging/replacement.

If you can remove the battery and take it to Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, etc (most chains stors) will test the battery free of charge. Some parts stores (Advance I strongly believe) will also charge the battery (free), call ahead.
If you have never removed a battery before and need instructions to do so safely let me know.
I will be online off and on for the next several hours. If you have any questions please ask.

I went out and bought a new battery and installed it. It works! Last question. Could my new battery become drained because my alternator is not charging it?- therefore it is my alternator rather than my battery? I am just wondering if my problem has been solved or if there is another variable. - Thanks for your help!

It is entirely possible something caused the battery to go dead, such as a defective alternator. If you have a voltmeter you can check the alternator yourself, let me know and I'll give instructions.

Or most chain autoparts stores will check your alternator while it's installed or removed from the vehicle (free service). In your case you obviouisly will not want to remove it unecessarily, so take a drive down and let me know what they say.

Your battery discharge light should come on (while the engine is running)if the alternator is defective. Have you seen the light come on while the engine is running?"

1997 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always Always

engine won't start, but will cranck, I cheged spark plug wire, fuel pump, coolant censor, distributer. still the problem is there. So what shall I do?

it's milage is 99000

some times the engine will dye while I am driving.

The first step is to have the diagnostic trouble codes read. While rather expensive at the dealership and repair shops, many autoparts stores will do this for free. Autozone, Parts America, Advance Auto, etc are examples of stores that usually provide this service, call ahead.

Let me know the actual trouble code number. Example- P0300, P0400, etc. and not the parts stores interpretation of the code.

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

The code was P0115, and the translation is: coolant temprature circute malfunction.

Will the engine restart right away when it dies on the road?

The sensor is probably bad, this can create hard starting but is not likely to cause the stall you are experiencing.

What is exactly is the problem you are having now, does the engine not start sometimes, will it start now? It's a little confusing because you said "engine won't start" and "sometimes dies while driving."

Hallo,
The engine doesn't start some times, it could be any time, morning or afternoon. I measured the voltage (coolant censor) of the cicute I got 4.87vdc/ and the resitance of the censor going high when it is cold and gose low when it is hot. some times the engine dyes while I am driving mostly it starts after 4-6 crancks but smoe times it will take a little while.

O.K. You have gotten a PO115 code pointing towards the cooling sensor. I have had nor ever seen a coo;ing sensor shut down a system unless there was an aid and abeting control behind it that tells it to do so. With that said, you must follow the complete flow chart and conduct all tests within that chart before coming to a total conculsion as to your specific problem. As an previous tech stated, don't go by the interpertations you my have been given by the code you were given, but rather see if the person who retrieved the code can furnish or supply you with the information as to how to obtain the proper flow charts to help guide you on your way.
Good Luck,
Paul

1997 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Sometimes, when I turn on the key, nissan pathfinder 1997, won't start, not even making any sound of engine. It completely silence. At another time it starts right up without hesitation. It happens only after I shut off the engine after driving regardless short or long distance. And it doesn't happen all the time. But now becoming more frequent. Something going on.
Thank you for your time.
Chanpho

Is this a column shift or floor shift?Also is it automatic or standard?You may have a neutral safty switch problem but the aforementioned needs to be known.

1997 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System   

Started fine earlier in the day, but now when try to crank I get nothing, just dead silence - not even attempting to turn over. Lights on dash come on, radio works, power accessories, etc. Have tried starting in nuetral too.

Sounds like the starter. They do sometimes quit like that. If there is room, I sometimes try to wire directly from the starter to the battery, a temporary jumper wire. If starter then cranks then I would suspect the neutral saftey switch or a fuseable link. If starter does not startt with jumper wire, then be convinced that a starter is required.

Just tried the old trick of hitting the starter with a hammer like my dad used to do to his old pontiac and the now it starts. Definately starter?

Yes definatly starter. Not a good idea to hit newer starters as they have magnets glued to inside of case sometimes. Reman startere not bad cost, easy to cahange. Remove negative battery cable first.

thank you very much for your help.

1996 Nissan Pathfinder Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 96 pathfinder that has recently had the auto transmission jump into limp mode where it starts out in like 3rd gear when its cold but when i put a few miles on it by manually shifting and get it up to temp I can turn the key off and restart it and limp mode is gone. Sometimes its back to normal for the entire day but when it sits for a while it goes back int limp mode. I get 16 flashes on the OD light when its in this mode. Speedo works fine so Im not sure if the speed sensor is the problem. Any ideas?

The first thing you need to do is the have trouble codes read. Autozone or Advance Auto will check the PCM trouble codes free of charge. Let me know which codes they find.

Did you have the trouble codes checked? This is a very important first step. There are other sensors that come into play, no way to guess around it.

I can give you the procedure for self-testing trouble codes for the PCM and Transmission Control Unit if you wish to troubleshoot problem. Let me know what your intentions are?

Yes, can you tell me how to check the codes.

Just an FYI..i found a lengthy internet forum that mentioned the same problem and the root cause was a revolution sensor in the trans. Apparently no codes will be set but the sensor can be disconnected and the back up sensor is in the speedo head takes its place. I have a spare trans so I have another rev sensor to try if it comes to swapping parts.

I don't have any information on the revolution (or turbine) failing and not setting a code. If the information you have found is true the only way to know for sure is to use a scan tool to view live sensor data or substitute a known good sensor.

I pulled the turbine sensor out this morning and it is still magnetized. I drove the car all day and it went into limp mode cold and then came out after it warmed up and I restarted the car. I drove the rest of the day, approx 100 miles with several startups and it acted up this time at the end of the day on an inclined bridge which is real unusual and not the typical pattern. Im going to try and put the extra sensor I have in tonight. Its easy and free. Besides, this is a diesel converted vehicle and the PCM is probably throwing no start codes and I dont have access to a real scanner for real time diagnostics. Just for some addl info, I put 10K miles on this thing with the engine harness disconnected from the engine. Check engine lite stays on EXCEPT when the trans is in limp mode...put it in P or N and the check eng lite comes back on. Its gotta be electrical.

1995 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Overheating When driving Always

My 1995 Nissan Pathfinger always runs hot, and overheats when driving on freeway. Have flushed system, installed new radiator, new coolent, and can see water circulating in radiator with thermostat opens.

Check the fan clutch or electric fan if equiped for correct operation.

Okay, will have mentioned a few other things. New parts installed; Radiator, thermostat, fan blade, fan clutch, coolant. Also installed radiator shroud, did not use to be one. Thermostat housing is designed so it can not be put in backwards.
Fan clutch works okay. Fan off when cold, moving when hot. With radiator cap off, looking at coolant, no movement when cold, flowing when hot. No leaking or noise from water pump.

Now have therostat off. Connected garden hose to water input port for engine in thermostat housing. Ran water to flush out system and check for blockage. System flushed freely, no blockage.

Water input runs to heater, and heater output I believe splits in two and runs to two heads of V6.

My next planned steps:

1. Remove thermostat housing and check if water pump impeller is mounted solid on drive shaft. Impeller is press fitted onto shaft.

2. Look closer at water enterance into engine. If I am correct that input splits between two heads, run pressurized water through each individual head to check for blockage.

Any other suggestions on what could be wrong, or what I can try?

Thanks

Rod Smith

1995 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Stalling When idling When warm 

I washed the carpet under the passenger seat. The car was started/ran and began to sputter to a stop after 1 minute. After 24 hours it continues to start/run and sputter after 1-2 minutes of running.

The first thing you will need to do is check for trouble codes in the vehicles computer. The following link will provide instructions for checking the codes-

http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/

Let me know which codes you find. Did you possibly get the computer (ECU) wet?

The I did not see the ECU get wet but I strongly believe that it was. The codes from the test were confusing. I saw: blink-pause, blink-blink-paues, blink-blink-blink-paues, blink-blink-blink-blink-paues, blink-blink-blink-blink-blink-paues. Suggestion?

You may have to try several times to get a concrete count.

First you may wish to unplug or unhook the ECU and dry the electrical connectors. Inspect thoroughly for water intrusion. Disconnect the negative battery cable before disconnecting the connectors. Then try the engine again. The computers on these vehicle are fairly rock solid, for that reason there should be plenty of used ones available for a reasonable price.

1995 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My 1995 Nissan Pathfinder XE 2wheel drive unlocks itself! Whether i lock the doors with the remote or the power door lock, i'll return to the vehicle and it is unlocked. it also has been found to be locking and unlocking rapidly & repeatedly all by itself! Creepy! What's going on?

This is common to the Body Control Module or sometimes called theChasis Control Module malfunctioning
It controls the interior lights and electric locks and windows in your car
you need to replace it

is this something the average driver can do themselves and how much does that part cost, could my local service station do it, or am i required to take it to an authorized Nissan dealer? Thank you.

hat is something that a local service station can do the dealership is always the best way to go as far as parts are concerned
this particular item may be dealer only
but the part can be replaced by any desent mechanic
you can call the dealer and get a price check

1995 Nissan Pathfinder All Part Groups   

i have a 1995 nissan pathafinder 3.0 v6 automatic 2wd. so far i have changed out the air filter, distributor, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, muffler, fuel pump, fuel filter, battery, ignition coil, ignition module, and a a/c temp sensor, flushed out the injection system and cleaned out the fuel tank completely. my question is......i can start it first thing no problem, but once it warms up.....or if i drive it a while, or make a turn....it cuts off. give it a minute or two and it starts back up. what do i have to do to stop this?????

Hi, Have you tested the fuel pump pressure? Is the exhaust restricted?

Please advise,

Roger

1994 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

I have a 1994 Nissan Pathfinder. It will not restart after the vehicle has been driven up to speed and is at operating temperature. I live 45 miles from work, and when I complete the drive, if I try to start the car again within a couple of hours, I get nothing, just the dash lights coming on, and fuel pump noise. The battery is fine. The vehicle does not appear to be overheating at all. At the same time this problem started, the middle position of the tilt steering broke. The steering wheel now has to be either all the way up, or all the way down. Please help!

Any news here? I want to help..

Roger

Hello, Are your battery cable connections clean and tight? Will the battery pass a load test? Have you had the starter amp draw tested?

Most national auto parts chain stores can check the above values for you and compare results to specs. I suspect the starter at this point. Heat radiating from the engine will effect a worn starter until it cools down.

When the condition is present can you have someone else tap the starter while you hold the key in the START position? If the tap of a hammer wakes-up the starter you'll need one. NOTE: This trick does not work unless the key is in the START position when the tapping occurs. You won't have to strike it hard to get results so don't overdo it.

The steering column tilt feature failure at the same time the starting problem began is perplexing. I'm thinking they are seperate repair issues unless you have starting problems related to column tilt position.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello Roger,

The problem is still there. There have been a few times when I drove the car all the way up to operating temp, and it still started........and a few times not.

I tried tapping the starter one of the times it didn't start, but no luck. I did have a friend holding the key to start.

Thanks,
Ron

I'll get a schematic and study it for a suggestion. What engine do you have?

What is the starter amp draw when the condition is present? Did your battery pass a capacity test? Will it jump start at the time the condition is present?

Thanks,

Roger

To further assist you I need to know what engine you have, 2WD or 4WD, auto or manual transmission?

The Pathfinder uses two brands of starters. Hitachi and Mitsubishi. Do you know which one you have?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, May I hear from you concerning the status of this question, please?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello Roger:

The problem still persists. However I've noticed that the vehicle can be jump-started when in this condition.

Ron

Hi, Will you please take a look at my posts beginning March 16th to date? If you could help supply the info I'm hoping for, I believe I can recommend a good path for a repair.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I'm hoping you'll update me on the status of your question.

Please advise,

Roger

1994 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

The "engine" light on the dash flashes. 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 5. Then begins again.

You will need to retrieve the codes from the computer.The computer has monitored a malfunction and a code has been stored for retrieval to isolate the problem to a specific circuit for further diagnosis.most parts stores check codes for free today and will give you some idea of what area the malfunction is occuring in.

Thank you,

Can I drive the car?

Where do I find the code?

Should I check the light sequence on the back of the ECC under the passenger seat?

Or

Is the 1,2,3,4,5, flashing engine light sufficient?

Or

Does somebody need to plug something in.

You need to retrive the codes as the previous responder stated. The only way to do that is to have the system scanned. Once done, the specific flow chart needs to be followed to its full extent to insure a proper repair. As far as being safe to drive, without knowing what kide of code the ECM is emitting, it makes it a hard call to tell you its safe on this side of the screen.
Good Luck,
Paul

Ditto

1994 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Fuse is good and bulb is good but tail lights and instrument lights do not work when lights are turned on. Brake lights work as do the turn signals, but the tail lights do not. Help!!!!

you may first want to check for power going in and coming out of the light switch to the non operating lights and check for a possible ground problem in your dash console
It would not be a bad idea to recheck those fuses again before any indept trouble shooting
hope this helps
Macconneck

Power is good otherwise the head lamps would not be working. Are there other fuses or relays in the system?

a relay may be located most likely under the hood in the alternate fusebox.
you may want to check both of the back lamp to see if they are ok there is a dual duty bulb there that can be half blown and it is not uncommon for one on each side to be blown

I need help from someone who is very familiar with 1994 Nissan Pathfinder electrical.

I need locations of fuse and relay panels.

The headlamps and the park lamps use a different fuse. The fuse for the park lamps is in the fuse box is under the hood. The park lamp fuse is on the bottom right when looking and the fuses, 10A. If the fuse is good, check at the switch next. The purple wire should be hot all the time and the purple/blue wire should be hot when the park lights are turned on. From there, all the lights are fed. There is no relay in this system, only the switch.

1994 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The vehicle starts, Drives for a while then quits and will not start again. all electrical components are functioning it is like turning the key to the Acc. postion while driving. Thought it was possibly fuel related so i disconected the fuel filter and turned the key. Fuel poured from the opening ruling out the fuel pump. Any Sugestions?

It is possible the ignition switch is failing.

Have you confirmed spark to the plugs during the no start?

Have you tested injector pulse to fuel injectors?

If you know you have fuel pressure, you could spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if the engine momentarily starts (during the no start period. If it still won't start check for spark. If it does it sounds like you are missing injector pulse. In which case you should start by checking trouble codes.

Thanks, I'll Try that. and post how it goes.

1994 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

battery is good. No power to anything - dome light etc etc. Problem is intermittent but happens most of the time after parking and turning off. Jump start does not help. After parking for a day or maybe two the power is on??? Had clutch and starter replaced recently. The problem has been with the vehicle for a long time but is now impossible. Since it is dead and then comes to life occassionally is it a relay of some sort? All connections appear tight.

Well you have to start with the basics.
Check and clean battery connections.
Have Battery and Alternator tested under a load.
The starter relay, or solenoid is attached to the starter. Connections there must also be clean.
Inside the starter is a set of brushes and an armature which also wears and can show intermittent starting, getting progressively worse.
That sounds like your symptoms.

Also there is a clutch switch on the pedal, you might test

The starter is new and the clutch has just been replaced. Not sure if the clutch relay switch was tested or replaced BUT there is no power even to the radio-dome light-door locks etc. Will the clutch relay switch shut down the power to the entire vehicle?? Thx

Clutch switch will only affect start part.
Main fuses,and fuseable links affect main power.
Some cars/trucks have a main 10 guage wire from battery to starter + terminal. There the main power goes to the rest of the vehicle.
You might trst the terminals on the ignition switch.
The $15 Haynes shop manual for your Pathfinder has good, easy to read wiring diagrams.

1993 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

No illuminating lights stereo no power

Hello, Do you suspect two problems? (1.) No dash lights, and (2.) Stereo doesn't work?

Have you checked all your fuses including the tail light fuse? With the tail lights "on", is the dash light fuse good? What did you find?

Is the stereo the factory original or an after market install?

To help you, I'll need more information. You didn't ask a question so it's a little confusing where to start.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Haven't heard from you. Do you still need help?

Thanks,

Roger

All fuses for everything are good. including tail lights.

Stereo I think was factory installed,but I tired replacing it.

Guess I don't need help anymore have made appt. to have professional do work.

Thanks KM

To withdraw your question and request a refund, write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and make your request known.

My help goes beyond checking fuses. If you want to continue, I can research and fax wiring schematics to you to help you repair the problem. It's your call. Please don't hesitate to ask.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

Ready to close this question? It's been a long time now.

Thanks,

Roger

1993 Nissan Pathfinder Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always

My manual transmission whines in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th gear. Sounds good or "normal" in 4th gear. Shifts ok, clutch was replaced before I bought the truck last year..but tranny or clutch seems to make noise while truck is idle in neutral. Could it be the problem is transmission AND clutch related? Its a hydraulic clutch if it matters.

First thing I would check is the transmission oil level.
Then I would suspect the clutch release bearing, a fairly cheap part but higher labor as the trans has to come out.
If trans is coming out,check the bearing in the back of crank and, replacing the engine rear seal at the same time, would be good preventitive maintenance.
New clutch? See a receipt? Any bearings on it? Sometimes quickie clutch jobs involve shortcuts.

I forgot to say that the oil level was fine. I had it changed when I bought the truck because of the whining noise, but new oil did little to quiet it down. I found the receipt that came with the Truck from the "Brake Doctors" who did the clutch. It says they put in a new release bearing and a pilot bearing. In the 'notes' section they comment on the noisy transmission. Do you have any ideas what could be causig the whine/noise in all gears but 4th?

Sounds like a bearing in the trans.as a release bearing would not be gear-specific. Not the news you wanted, but you may want to let a trans shop test drive it...

1993 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always No pattern

I have a 1993 pathfinder 4WD.The left headlight come on when motor run but when I turn the light switch on , le left beam goes dark ( for low or high beam )when I turn the switch back off , the daylight comes back. I replaced the bulb, I checked the 15 amp fuse in the box under the hood ( left fender ). What could it be ( I do not see any relay ).??

two more info: first : when I turn on the switch, the high beam light turn on in the dash
second: the right side beam works ok

check power on left headlight fuse when you turn the switch on

The fuses are ok I did checked both ( the right and the left fuse head beam ) in the plastic box on the left fender. I even checked if power is going across the fuse holder and it is.
What should i check next ?

look at plug end on bulb short somewhere between fuse and bulb

did you find the problem

This morning I went out and checked.

Motor off , lights off:
-Only one pin on the beam connector is grounded ( I checked on the other beam and it is the same pin )

Motor started, light switcch off ( day lights on ):
-Both lights are on, I remove anyone, both goes off


Motor started, light switcch on ( low beam ):
-The beam turn off , the other is still on.
-I read on the volt meter 8 volts across the ground pin and the middle pin. I checked on the other beam and I read 14 volts

Motor started, light switcch on ( High beam ):
-The beam remains off, the other one switch to high beam.
-I read on the volt meter 8 volts across the ground pin and the opposite ground pin ( the middel pin is 0 volt , no ground on it ). I checked on the other beam and I read 14 volts instead of 8 volts.

Where is the relay for those beam.

no relays for head lights ground the one that doesnt work and see if it does may have lost its ground

I told you that the ground I found on one pin has the same resistance than the good one, and remains all the time...no matter what switch is on or off.

Last night I used my truck, and for about 30 seconds just when I got home,the
beam when on .
I remember that 3 months ago, my beam was going off for some times
showing in the dash the High Beam light. At that time I tought that I
had touched the High/Low switch.
So the problem seams intermittent, but more often OFF than ON ( 99.999 % OFF )

Where should I look : The wire at the beam are not cutting off, the 15 amp fuse is ok
there is only one wire .Where the 3 wires Beam connect ; leaving the beam connector, they go
in a big tape wrape up. They must go somewhere ?

What can you tell me about it ?

Hello, I've read your dialog with another technician and I want to make the following suggestion:

At the connector for the headlamp switch verify that battery voltage is present on the Pink, Red/Wht, and Red wires. Each of these wires is protected by a different fuse.

Turn on the low beam headlights. At the connector for the headlight switch you should have power leaving the switch on the Red/Grn wire to the left headlamp and power on the Red/Blk wire to the right headlamp.

There should also be power on the Pink/Blu wire that goes to tail lights, clearance lights and side marker lights.

Can you verify these voltages as outlined?

If you find that there is no voltage output on the Red/Grn wire when the headlight switch is on you likely have a bad connection or a bad switch.

Please advise,

Roger

Waiting to hear from you. How are you doing on this one?

Roger

At the connector for the headlamp switch I verified
that battery voltage is present on the Pink, Red/Wht, and Red wires. Each of them have 12 volts.

I Turned on the low beam headlights. At the connector for the headlight switch I have power leaving the switch on the Red/Grn wire to the left headlamp and power on the Red/Blk wire to the right headlamp. My problem is on the RED/Green wire since it is the left Beam not working.

So I presume my switch is correct so far.

I did some verification on the Beam Connector.

There is three wire : a black on one side , a RED/Grn center and a RED/Blue with a pink ring on the other side.

Her something interesting on the beam connector:

No light switch on : ( no Beam in the socket )

Ground is on the RED/Blue with the pink ring ) continuity with chassis groung
No voltage on any other wire.

Light switch on : black become grounded and I read 12 volts on the RED/Green ( center . and I read about 500 ohms to ground on the RED/Blue pink ring to chassis ground.

Light switch on High Beam : no ground on any pins to chassis and no voltage to chassis ground on any pins but I read 8 volts across Black and RED/Blue pink ring ??

What should I do next ?

You stated that when the headlight switch is ON and low beam is ON you have 12 volts at the beam connector Red/Grn. That is correct.

The Blk wire in the beam connector should be grounded at all times, not just when the light switch is on.

With the headlight switch on low beams...what reading do you get when your meter test lead (RED) is touching the beam connector Red/GRN wire and the other test lead (BLK) is touching the beam connector Blk wire?

Roger

I get 0 volts
What is the purpose of the opposite wire on the Beam ( the RED/Blue with pink ring )?
Do you know where the black goes to so I can check the connection ?

When you tested for voltage in the manner I suggested you verified that there is no ground. The black wire no longer connects to the vehicle body.

The ground won't be very far away if you follow the wiring back into the loom you should see the black wire bolted to the fender, the radiator support, or the frame. I don't have the physical location on my diagram.

You stated this is the left headlight with the problem. Does the wiring run near the vehicle battery? Has the battery leaked onto the harness and caused the problem by corrosion?

The Red/Blue wire is the power wire to the hi beam.

Roger

Thank You it was that Fu.... ground.

You wre wright, the black must be solid ground to the chassis.

Thnaks again !
Merry Chrismast to you

Congratulations! To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY THE MECHANIC button.

Merry Christmas!

Roger

1993 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Rear running light and interior dash lights are not working. i just replaced the turn signal switch and the hzd switch. now the hazards, blinkers, and high beam lights work. still no running lamp or dash lights. am I right to try the illuminator switch next?

Possibly, check the switch with an ohm meter. The auto parts store should let you compare the reading on your switch to a new one. Or possibly do it for you if find a helpful clerk.

Never overlook fuses!

1993 Nissan Pathfinder Windows / Glass   

all power windows do not work i have tried each door switch also automatic door locks do not work. I also checked all fuses. what next? thank you, barney

What engine do you have?
it is a strong possibility that your body control module is not working.
let me look at the manual quickly and get back with you in a few"

It looks like your BCM is a part of the engine control computer of your car.
It can be a costly exchange
to try to narrow it down , I would suggest
you go to the nearest auto-parts store and take advantage of a free car scan where they can pull any stored codes from your ECC and you can examine the codes retreived go from there
I hope this helps

xe v6 with air conditioning

how about a computer scan of your ECM?

1992 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I push the switch to lock the doors, the doors do not lock. When I do push the switch I can hear a slight "clicking" sound somewhere in the back (I think in the passenger door behind the drivers seat) Pushing down the drivers side door knob also does not lock the doors, but I can hear the"slight"clicking noise. Thanx

Hi, Have you considered replacing the door lock relay? Checked all fuses?

Do the doors lock/unlock from the passenger door control switch? Do you have keyless entry? Aftermarket alarm?

Roger

I do not have keyless entry or after market alarm. All fuses are good.The passenger side is only window switch As an update...I went to the rear of the vehicle and accessed the wiring harness through the left rear access panel by the speaker. I jiggled the wires around trying to see if there is a loose connection. The door locks started operating again for about 5-7 cycles,then stopped working again.
S stopped operating again.

Where is the door lock relay located?

I don't know what you might be hearing from the rear. The only door lock components back there are the rear door actuator and, if you have the SE model, the rear glass actuator. The power door lock module is under the drivers seat, next to the cruise control computer.

Roger

I have the SE model. There are no relays or any other wiring under the drivers seat. There is the"brains" box under the passengers seat, but no other relays or wiring next to it. I have been on the internet and come across the exact same problem as I have. There are no answers yet on those web pages. They are FREE...Please be more responsive...You are the experts..If you need more specific info pls. advise

Please note this is not a live chat.

I'm looking at the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair
Data Base. On the 1992 Pathfinder SE the
Door Lock Timer and the ASCD (cruise control) modules are shown side-by-side under the driver's seat. The door lock timer is the smaller of the two. Perhaps these are under the carpet?

I can email what I am studying to you. What is your email address, please? I won't get home for about an hour.

Roger

What you have to provide from mitchell...
send to me at.... [redacted]

Thank you, I'll send what I have.

Roger

I have tried twice to send an email to [redacted]

I get a delivery failure notice each time.

Is the address correct? Thanks.

Roger

My mistake..I left off an l

Pls try again [redacted]

Thanx

Okay, I'll try again.

Thanks,

Rog

Rec your diagrams.I removed the front seat and could not find what the drawing was showing. I was going to check under the passengers seat but, interestingly enough, I pushed down all the doorknobs then pushed the switch on the door panel, and all the locks started working. I cycled them 15-20 times and all work fine now. Are there other "sensors" in the doors that may be malfunctioning? Thanx for your help

There is the possibility that the switch that attaches to the door lock cylinder may be loose or has some sort of a problem with following the sweep of the key rotation.

It would require removing the door trim panel for access to inspect.

Roger

How do you know which door? Drivers?Passenger?Back doors? Is this a situation where an inspection of each door is required. Would the computer box give a code to identify the problem door? Thanx

The computer box won't help.

This is a trial and error situation. Certainly the driver's door lock cylinder gets the most use. As a technician I would start there by trying to trick the door lock system into quitting.

Maybe by just not quite turning the key the full travel but just enough to pop the mechanical lock button. I'd look to see how far away from vertical I could actually remove the key from the lock cylinder after unlocking the door. ( this has the potential of putting the lock switch in a hung position.)

Consider the vehicle history. Anybody been using a slimjim on either door for any reason? Could it have effected the switch mounting on the lock cylinder?

If only normal use/wear is known to exist a technician will persue the area of most frequent use that has a system component.

One also has to consider shock from slamming a door that is hard to close or heavy. Things inside can break over time.

Roger

Thank you for the suggestions. As I look back, the door lock on the drivers side was replaced by a technician several years ago. He found one at a junk yard. So I will take it back to him and have him re-check the lock. I checked the locks this AM and they are all functioning as they should. Thank you for your help. I am satisfied with your answers and your involvement in helping me...Phil

Thank you for the business. To accept my answer please click on OK to finish up and that will close the question.

Respectfully,

Roger

1992 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System   

Havig trouble starting the Diesel 2.7 TD engine. Have been advised it is the Glow Plug timer...but cannot find location of this unit to fit the replacement one I have bought. I do have an on-line service manual, but none of the wiring code colors seem to match ! Nor the dash layout, nor much else ! [May have wasted my money there ! ]

Hello,

Which service manual did you buy?

Is the starting problem only when cold? Did you test to see if the glow plugs are getting voltage?

Hi. It was an on-line manual for TD27i Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano. Yes, the problem is only in the mornings when cold. The Glow plugs are only about 6 months old, so I was advised it was most likely the 'Glow Plug Timer'. I have bought an 'After market' one, but am having trouble finding where the original one is. I thought I'd found it on the inside of a trim Panel just below the steering column, but that must have been something else. Not sure what that is, but you can't put the thing in gear [ Auto] without it, even if you do hold the pedal the floor and keep turning it over, when it will always [ to date] eventually start.....if I haven't drained the battery first. The Glow plug relay is getting and clicking on and supplying the 12 volts. Not really sure if the plugs are getting it though.

Ohm test the glow plugs and see if they are open. What are the results?

Question: with the ignition 'ON', and the Glow-Lamp Indicator shown 'On', then 'Off', should there be 12 volts on the top of the glow-plugs ? Because there isn't !
Also, it's hard to get at the back two plugs. Is it OK to loosen the rubber connectors and move the Turbo Cross pipe out of the way, or not ? It would make things a lot easier.

When the indicator light is ON, you should have voltage. Off it will be gone.

Test what you can reach, no need to test them all now.

OK. I'll do that. But does that mean when the dash light goes off, [and there's no 12v to the glow plugs, they aren't heating any more ? I thought they kept warm until the engine started. Therefore, voltage there until after engine has started ?

They use electricity to warm, are they getting positive voltage at anytime? Use a Known Good Ground.

Hi Douglas. Yes, I know they use 'electricity to warm', which is why I asked how they kept warm if the 12 volts goes off when the Dash Glow Plug Ready light goes off.

But my original question, which doesn't seem to been addressed, was about the location of the Glow Plug Timer unit, which provides the feed to the relay, and then onto the plugs. Because I think that's where the problem lies, but I can't physically find it! And that was all my original question contained.

1991 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting When cold

I recently replaced my alternater, and it has an exhaust leak so it overheats. But recently it wont start even when jumped correctly. it turns the engine about a half or a third turn but then the electronics click and all is dead. it sounds like it is the starter relay so i replaced it and it did the same thing. Any help would be great. signed dead and looking at graveyard or resurection?

Hello, An exhaust leak is causing an overheat? It shouldn't. Are you saying the exhaust leaks and the alternator is in it's path?

It takes more battery power to start a hot engine than one might think. Clean battery cables and connections are very important.

If you are confident that connections and the condition of the cables are OK then the battery should be tested. Will it take a charge? Has it discharged so far that the alternator cannot recharge it fully?

If a good maintenance free battery is in a very low state of charge the battery must be charged at a high rate (40-60 amps) for about thirty minutes and then trickle-charged for up to 24 hours to get it back to parr.

Even a new alternator without defect can only surface charge a discharged battery. A surface charge will not hold and is not reliable.

Have the battery charged and tested. Replace if needed. A bad battery that will not take a charge properly will not jump start very well either. Retest the alternator output.

The engine overheating is a seperate concern. How do you want to proceed?

Roger

The alternator and the battery are good .The vehicle has been sitting for a month and a half. the vehicle will not turn over. It will not turn over with a jump it will only click and turn all electronics off. Is there an electronic component in the link that may cause this? all of the mechanicals are fine. It does not over heat anymore because it does not turn over. and it has an exhaust manifold leak that causes it to overheat that has been fixed. Please speak to why it does not even turn over fully.

You may want to release the question but I restate that battery cable connections must be clean and tight on both ends.

The cables must deliver voltage and if the starter is normal it will call for 175-200 amps to turn the engine over. I believe you have a connection problem. I do not know of an electronic component that would cancel your electronics after an attempt to start the engine causes just a click.

Will you try installing a different battery and see what that does? Yours may have an internal problem that blocks the flow of high amp demand.

You have said the battery is good but don't say if it has been charged as I talked about, or put on a load tester to test it's reserve capacity.

You also said the mechanicals are all good. I can't see or hear what you can so I rely on your feedback.

Roger

Any luck here?

Roger

How are you doing here?

Thanks,

Roger

1991 Nissan Pathfinder Engine   

I had an exhaust leak, broken stud. So I drilled it out and got into the waterways. I replaced that head with another used one and I replaced the intake manifold and head gaskets. I have poor power will die if I let it idol. I have checked spark, gas and air. All seem to be ok Also I checked timming Ok also. What to check next?

Start by checking for proper fuel pressure and vacuum leaks.

Another possibility is restricted exhaust.

If this engine uses an egr valve, it may be stuck open. Temporarily plug off the egr valve passage and see if there is an improvement.

Also, if the check engine light is coming on you'll need to check codes. I'll give you instructions if you need them.

1991 Nissan Pathfinder Drive Train / Driveline   

I have just recently notcied a noise coming from the front end after I engage the 4X4High and Low. Sounds like a scraping metal on metal noise. I was thinking it was the auto lockers or maybe the fluid in the dif being low, any thoughts?

The fluid usually gets quite low before it gets noisy. Check the fluid level for starters.

Did the noise continue (changes frequency with speed) as the vehicle was driven? Or was it only upon engagement?

It happened as soon as it was engaged. The noise seemed to remain the same however I only drove it less than a KM home. I was afraid to drive it any further. I was using the 4X4 just to keep it moving. My truck tends to sit a bit lately, I live in a remote community in the Northwest Territories.

1991 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Help....I need to replace my tail light. 1991 Pathfinder. Please make it simple I am a woman and I am blonde. Thank You !!!

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/b4/e[redacted] b4e0/repairInfoPages.htm

This will give you the general idea. Note I'm assuming you just need to replace the bulb and not the lens assembly (the glass).

Well, this will not work....I have a 1991 Pathfinder and the access is through the inside panel of the rear...I cann't see in well enough to see what the wire go to in order to get ahold of the bulb. seems like a bunch of wires lead to something like a rectangle thingy

87-95 Pathfinders should be the same procedure for changine the bulb.

Maybe these would be easier for you to access by removing the lens assembly from the exterior of the vehicle (should be common philips screws holding the assembly in, inspect with a flashlight to be sure).

87-95 Pathfinders should be the same procedure for changine the bulb.

1991 Nissan Pathfinder Fuel System   

ttruck will not start . but when i spray etha in air filter truck starts for 7 seconds only than it cuts off , truck waS OUT IN THE COLD FOR TWO WEEKS , THAN I TRY TO START THE TRUCK I HAD A PROBLEM STARTING IT. NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM UNTIL I STOPPED USING THE TRUCK FOR TWO WEEKS , AND IT WAS 10 BELOW 0 AT THE TIME I WAS NOT USING THE TRUCK. I BELIEVE THE GAS IS NOT GETTING THE CORRECT FLOW . WHAT CAN I DO

Most likely the fuel pump, but possibly no power to the pump. Check for power at the pump and if power while cranking, then fuel pump time. If no power, check the fuel pump relays and fuses.

HOW DO I KNOW IF POWER IS GOING TO FUEL PUMP , WHEN TRUCK DONT START

#1 Take off the fuel cap and put your ear to the tank. Listen if you can hear the electric pump running when someone turns the key on. If so, you have power. If not, go under the truck to the tank and find the wires going to to the fuel tank/pump. Use a test light or multimeter to make sure there is 12V when your helper is trying to start the engine. If power, then a bad fuel pump. If no power, check fuel pump fuses and relays.

1989 Nissan Pathfinder Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I thought there was a way to change the back lighting for the instruments from orange to green and back, however, I cannot find it in the manual and I do not find any obvious control to do this. Is there a way to do this on the 1989 Pathfinder? Thanks! Lynn

Hello, I am researching this for you. I do not think it can be done.

I'm aware that JVC Brand Stereo displays have an option for display color choice but I haven't found in Nissan shop manuals where the vehicle panel lights are color choice selective for display.

Roger

Changing the panel light color is not possible on this model. A 200SX had such an option in the early eighties but that was possible through use of fiber optic technology.

My source is the 1989 Nissan Pathfinder Factory Shop Manual and conversation with the shop foreman at my local Nissan Dealership.

Sorry Lynn,

Roger

1988 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System   

I just replaced the head gaskets on my 3.0 V6. The car was running before just that oil and water were mixing. Now I have no spark??? I changed the coil and still noting. When I turn the key on, there is power to the ignition control mod and then on to the coil......but no spark. Any Ideas

Check that there is power to the distributor and that the rotor is turning in the distributor.

1988 Nissan Pathfinder Engine   

Bought Used Pathfinder. Previous owner said it was running but he thought the fuel pump was going bad because the fuse had blown and he put in a larger fuse. Repair shop trouble shot the high current draw and replaced the throttle body heater. Vehicle starts fine when cold but after driving a short period it dies for no reason. Sometimes it drives till stopped then will not restart. times dies in mid driving. I replaced the fuel pump thinking the original owner was right. No change. I replaced the spark plugs. Also, I replaced the exhaust. I tested the original fuel pump by tuning the key with the line feeding into a measure cup and the pump would pump about a cup of gas and I tested the pressure and it was 50 psi. When I got the vehicle the is a sensor in the exhaust just forward of the catalytic converter that was hanging due to rusted pipes. It is back in place now but I don't know if it was damaged due to exposure.

Sometimes after the stall. When I restart it and step on the gas peddle one time it starts at idle for 2 to 3 secs and then dies out. Also, sometimes if I pump the gas repeatedly it revs hesitantly like each pump is giving enough gas to build it up for a second but it will eventually die after 6 or 7 seconds.

The sensor before the cat is the O2 sensor,
It is important, as it controls the air/fuel mixture. Also, considering the condition of the exhaust, the cat converter might be plugged.

The exhaust has been replaced from the headers back, everything. I have been trying to start it today. I am sure the problem is related to fuel deluivery. I used starting fluid and can start the engine. I pulled the hose at the fuel filter. The fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. This is a new fuel pump, and in retrospect I think the old pump is probably good as well. I pulled a small relay on the fire wall that is marked fuel pump relay and tested it and it seems to be working. It is as if no signal is being sent to the pump. I am going to try to verify this now. with a meter. I looked at the fuse box and the shop that changed the throttle body heater never took the 30 amp fuse out. I checked it and it is good so I left it for now. It seems the problem has to be related to this blowing fuse but I need to trace out the electrical to find all the wires. Unfortunately, it is sitting at a restaurant right now so it is hard to test. I am going to have it pulled to where I can work on it before the end of the day.

Hey, I might have found the problem. I was trying to test the pump and the piower to the pump and I found an issue. The inspection plate is rusted and my changing the fuel pump had no effect. I put a meter on the leads that I am fairly certain are connected to the pump and the pump may have gotten burned out. I cant tell yet but the real thing I noted was that the pump looked to be totally isolated when I installed it. One of the plastic insulators appears to be partially grounded to the inpection cap. There are five wires one ground two sending unit wires and two pump wires. I am wondering a few things. What should the voltage to the pump be at turn on. I was getting about 9.5 volts. I will have to check the battery to see about its volts out after so much cranking. Also, what should the sending unit volts be. I measured th old pump and it is 1.3 ohms but I cannot get a reading from the unit in the tank. I am going to have to pull the thing out again and see what I can do. This item is a dealer only item I havebeen told.

I have ordered an inspection plate for the gas tank. How can I verify the control for tha gas pump is working properly? I have a meter and oscilloscope if needed to test it but I am not certain the signal I should see.

With the inspection cover being that rusty, I wouls be concerned about the fuel pump ground wire. If in doubt, replace the wire and ensure the ground connection is clean.

9.5 volts sounds quite low, but might still be adequate.Whenever I test a pump, I run battery power direct to the pump, thus determining if the pump or the wiring/relays etc an issue.

You should see battery voltage less resistance in the circuit available to the fuel pump. This should equal a slight drop in voltage. eg- 12.6 @batt and 12.3 @pump. When cranking the engine the battery voltage will obviously drop. All testing should be done with a healthy battery.

If you have battery voltage to pump and its not operating there is a problem with any wiring left between your test location, the ground (I'm not sure if you are using a known good ground as a test point), or a faulty pump.

You should have battery voltage to the pump when you [initially] turn the key on (this is when the pump primes for about 2 seconds, it may not do this repeatedly as they usually are on a timer) and during engine cranking.

Check this and let us know.

There are tests you can do on the pump with an oscilloscope, but it is not of much use for this application (it'll show a pump that is getting weak or drawing excessive current, but not needed to determine if the pump is receiving adequate 'ON' voltage.

I REPLACED THE COVER ON THE FUEL TANK. IT APPEARS TO HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM. IT LOOKS LIKE THE PROBLEM WAS THE COVER ALL ALONG. I BELIEVE WHAT WAS HAPPENING WAS THAT WHEN THE TRUCK WAS FIRST STARTED THE COVER WAS COLD AND THE RUST DID NOT PASS TOO MUCH CURRENT. AFTER DRIVING A WHILE EITHER THE RUST BEGAN TO HEAT AND CONDUCT MORE AND SHORTED OUT THE PUMP OR THE CONTROL THAT FEEDS THE PUMP WAS SEEING THE HIGH CURRENT AND SHUTTING THE PUMP OFF. EITHER WAY IT SEEMS TO BE RUNNING MUCH BETTER NOW.

1988 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System   

turn over but dosnt start, randomly quits while driving, then wont start unless pull start it

Sounds like a tuneup problem. If it has been awhile since tune you may want to start there.
If that does not help, try getting the Nissan scanned for codes, even if the check engine light does not come on.It might be a simple sensor problem, and its best not to change them randomly.
Let me know how it goes

1988 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System   

88 pathfinder. I took it in for diagnostics, they told me the coil needed to be replaced and had a bad ground. I fixed it with new coil and made a bracket for the coil as per dealer instructions. I drove 500mi. before the engine stopped. Now I have no spark at coil. multimeter reads 24v at coil but i have no spark at coil. I replaced the coil again, still no difference. whats the problem. power to and through coil, good ground. could there be some other issue

Are you sure it is 24 volts, should be battery voltage which is 12?

You may have a bad distributor sensor, which engine do you have?

3.0v6. what does the distributor have to do with the coil not sparking. I also need to know where that sensor is located. thanks

The crank/cam sensor is in the distributor. Have you checked fuses?

where are the fuses for the ignition parts. thats really what i neede to know.

There are several fuses that can prevent the engine from starting. Pull check and replace the fuses one by one. Ignore ones like headlamps, horn, wipers and concentrate on the others.

are there any other fuses, cause I already checked the main fuse box. I do know alittle about cars. I do all my own work and always have. i wish it was that easy as to have a blown fuse. maby it is, but is there any other fuses under the hood ?

Was battery voltage indeed 12 volts?

The fuse do not appear to be the issue, assuming the 'Check Engine' light comes on during initial Key On as it normally does.

Next step is to check for trouble codes. This will let you know if the vehicles computer sees what the problem is and has flagged a code.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/

Copy and paste the above link into your address bar for instructions on trouble code retrieval. Give me an update.

ok so I have now pin pointed the point at which spark is lost. THis may sound easy but seems highly unlikely , idk, what do you think. Im getting power all the way to the "blade" of the rotor, but no spark at the female port for the plugs. ud think "bad cap" right? so my question is... how do the "plug" ports go out all at once?

This would indicate the coil is firing but spark is lost. Rotor failure is most likely (look for cracks which allow spark to escape down the distributor shaft (it would go here as it is the shortest path to ground).

The above scenario is the best explanation for losing spark to all ports... spark getting to the coil end of the rotor but not leaving the other end (to the plug ports).

Remedy?

A new rotor. If the cap is worn or corroded it definitely should be replaced, a good idea to replace anyways. It is still possible the cap is causing the problem, best to replace both.

How did you determine spark is indeed reaching the coil end of the rotor?

I assume you have spark coming to the distributor from the coil wire. It will then travel from the coil wire tower on the cap to the rotor, at which point the rotor passes it to each cylinder. Therefore the cap or rotor could the problem.

When you get it going be sure to check the oil. If it smells of gasoline it needs replacing as it will not provide adequate engine protection.

Just a multimeter. current all the way to the end of the rotor and doesnt get to the ports. I already ordered both parts, they shouold be in around 6.

Most multimeter are not capable of testing secondary voltage (spark). Are you certain you have spark coming from the coil wire to the distributor cap? The reason I ask is because you get to the rotor when the cap is installed... and the cap needs to be installed for spark to get to the rotor.

yeah, I got a good jolt when putting my tounge on the coil plug(jk), but no "jolt" at the plug wire,. I also installed the new cap and rotor(which the old ones only had 500mi. on them. :-(

Is it running now?

nO, THE NEW PARTS DIDNT DO THE JOB. IM GONNA TAKE THE PLUGS OUT TOMORROW AND SEE IF THEY MAY BE WET. IF NOT, IDK WHAT ELSE TO DO

BUT THAT DOESNT TAKE AWAY THE FACT THAT IM NOT GETTING SPARK AT THE PLUGS

Confirm consistant spark from the coil. Rest the coil wire less than 1/4 inch from the engine block and have an assistant crank the engine. Is repeating spark present?

Make sure the engine ground is good. For the plugs to fire the plugs have to be grounded through the engine block.

Yeah, I guess i am not getting good spark at the coil. Also when the key is started, I am losing voltage, It goes down to 5-6v. My ground seems to be good on the coil. Do you think the resistor that plugs into the coil could have anything to do with it?, or is that just for heat displacement

Where are you measuring voltage?

Are you getting intermittent spark or weak spark? A spark tester would be helpful at this point. Alternatively a weak spark is orange and strong spark is blue. Remember the battery needs to be charged when testing these things.

The voltage is measured at coil "out " port. If I get a spark it is orange.

Is the battery still strong, meaning it cranks the engine normally vs slowly?

How often does it spark during engine cranking?

So do you think it could be the altinater

The alternator will only charge the battery IF the engine is running. Cranking the engine when it won't start will deplete the battery. Testing of many components needs to be done with a charged battery to produce accurate results. This includes spark because if the battery gets to low results will become inaccurate.

Shit, I just dont know where to go from here. Do you have a plan of attack. I need help, missin work and everything

Charge the battery and check the battery cables and grounds (establish new grounds if it is easier than testing them). Recheck the wiring you already fixed and the wiring close by. Weak spark is usually caused by weak wires... if you have a strong battery. Your coil is new so should be functional.

1987 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Stalling When driving When warm 

the engine just dies while driving down the road. this morning it died cold after i replaced the fuel filter, normally it dies warm while in motion then you have towait about 5 minutes brfore it will restart.

You need to check for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period. If spark is missing the first place to look is the distributor.

If you need a repair guide for instructions, etc. use the following link for a free online repair guide-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1987 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System   

I have an 87 niss pathfinder v6 automatic. It ran great the day i shut it off, went back the next day and would spitter and sputter, barely idle and run replaced temp sen, tps, distributor, to no avail even replaced the computer. the computer gives a 44 code wich mean everthing is ok. I managed to get it home by fluttering the gas. it seems to have instances where it runs perfect for a split second with the right ammount of gas. tested the fuel pressure and volume and iits right on help me please

It my be a little far fetched but visually check a sample of the fuel and see if it looks discolored or tampered with
If your fuel looks ok in any way or inconsistent From what you describe it sounds like there is a intake leak of some sort
Check the intake manifolds bolts for tightness
check your air control and air filter housing system into the throttle body this shold be a closed system
while it is running remove it and see if the system is possibly not getting enough air into the throttle body
you may try spraying some carb fluid around the intake to see if there is a significant change in the idling
Connect a extention hose to a automotive stethescope and lisen for a hissing sounds
located around the engine

I tested the coil and one of the parameters is 7,000 11,000 ohms. the ohmeter read 6700 is this too far out, maybe some of the windings are shorted together. If the spark isn't strong enough this could throw the computer off? I got it to throw a code yesterday one for the crank angle sensor and one for the injectors. I find this may be a false reading as ive replaced the cas and the truck ran the same after i put a used throttle body on it, the cap rotor are new. fuels fine looksfin fi

fine

fuels fine, sprayed carb cleaner to no avail and nothing. egr is not froze. It has moments where it will run great for a couple seconds and go better than it ever has probably due to all the new parts but then it starts acting up. at some points it wont allow the engine to rev above 3000 rpms. turn the key off and on and it will let it rev. what i dont get is that when you turn the lights, heater blower, and rear defrost on the truck idles and runs better(under load)Please Help thanks for your time eric