Nissan Pick-up

2007 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

my truck will start up fine, i can run it for as long as i need, but when i shut it off and try to restart it, it will not start up. I have to wait a few hours for it to start up again. i was thinking that it was flooding its self out, but I am not to sure any more. it is a 1990 manuel transmission ka24 engine. help!!!!!!!!!!.

not a 2007 but a 1990

Check for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period. If you do not have spark the crank sensor in the distributor is a common failure in these.

what do i use to check for a spark. and do i check all the spark plugs or just the first one

Preferably a spark tester, available inexpensively at your local auto parts store. It is better to test more than one, to keep the results accurate.

Some people rest the exposed plug wire a short distance away from the engine block (1/8 inch) and watch for the spark to jump. This method is okay if you are experienced with this kind of work. To far away from the engine block can do damage to sensitive electronics, you can be shocked (if you hold onto the wire), or worst case scenario inadvertently start a fire (not paying attention to were the spark is, or already having something flammable spilled on the engine-- eg, a small gas leak you didn't know about).

Hi. I did as you said, and used a spark plug tester and checked all four of the spark plug wires going from the distributor to the engine during the no start period, All 4 delivered a spark. I pulled the spark plugs to find that all four spark plugs mainly the last one was drentched with fuel. Why? when i try to start the pickup during the no start time I can smell a heavy scent of gas. Thanks for the Ideas, I really appreciate your help.

The most likely cause is a leaking fuel injector. I'm not sure if you have the multi-port fuel injection (4 injectors) or TBI (injector in throttle body)-- but if you have TBI simply watch the fuel injector after you turn off the engine to see if gasoline leaks from it (there shouldn't be any fuel coming out with the engine off, the fuel injector sprays fuel when you initially turn the key on and during engine cranking/running).

Also, when engine is cold, pull off the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. Inspect for signs of raw gas in the line (wet or strong odor of gas). If this is case the regulators diaphram is leaking internally, replace the regulator.

Let me know what you find or if you have any questions (or need further instruction on the advice given).

I think this truck has a throttle body, the truck has a air filter, when i take that off is the fuel cable and i believe the throttle body right? If my timeing is of would that lead to the wet spark plugs?

If the valve timing was off it could lead to wet plugs, but is not high on the list. The timing would have to be off just so, and power would be real low.

If you have throttle body injection the fuel injector will on the throttle body, you see the fuel line nearby. The throttle body is the part the fuel cable (more commonly referred to as the throttle cable) is connected to.

I hope this doesn't confuse you, but multiport injection have a throttle body. In this case it is just to regulate the air (via the the throttle blade). The key word is INJECTION-- the fuel is either injected at the throttle body or at each individual cylinder. The fuel line will tell the difference. If it goes to the throttle body you have TBI, if it goes to a rail that feeds 4 injectors you have multiport.

YOu don't want to drive the engine like this, as it can be dangerous. It also is likely getting gas in the oil (very bad for the engine) and can damage the catalytic converter).

hi, well i found out that i have tbi, so what am i suposed to check to stop the plugs from geting wet.

Look at the fuel injector and see if it leaks fuel when the Key is OFF (the injector should only spray gasoline when the key is initially turned on and during engine cranking/running. If it does the fuel injector needs replacing. Let me know and we'll continue if necessary.

I checked to see if the injector leaked gas during the no start period while the key was off, and it didnt. I was talking to a friend, and he said that if I have a bad ground the ecm could be sendind to much fuel to the injectors, is that true.

I would like to thank you for your time and help, I have found the problem ith my truck, and just need to figure out a ay to fix it. I have found the my truck is getting vapor locked at the fuel injector rail. I have put wooden cloths pins on the rail and on the fuel line all the way back to the tank. Is their a way that i can move the fuel line from the injector rail to move it away from the heat comeing off the engine.

Does the engine run fine with the clothes pins attached?

Yea. Before, when the truck would get up to normal operateing temperature and I would shut it down and go to start it back up, that would be the no start period. I put 5 wooden clothes pins on the fuel line that is attatched to the injector rail, and brought the truck up to the normal operateing temp, shut it down and this time it started right back up. Why, I have no clue. I take them back off and repeat the process and it actes back up again. So I have left them on and it is doing great. It would be great if there was a high performance rail I could get to replace the factory one because it looks funny with the pins on there.

I'm not aware of a high performance rail. It would probably be better to try to insulate the fuel line. Does the fuel system have a return line to the gas tank, if it does check to see if it is plugged.

Hi, Yea the truck has a return line, how should i check to see if it is pluged or not?

Use regulated air (air compressor with a regulator)- 5 lbs of pressure should flow through the line.

2007 Nissan Pick-up Engine   

A loud clater when acelerating with a bad miss. no noise when decelerating. no broken valve spring. timing chain is tight.

Sounds like a bad plug wire, but is it not under warranty?

My truck is not a 2007, it is a 1985 with 210000 miles on it. The noise sounded like an old v8 when a rocker arm comes off. A real loud clatter.

The first thing to do is to do a compression test to see the condition of the valves and pistons,

2004 Nissan Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

Transmission was running fine..had rebuilt two years ago...changed fluid and filter...now slips between first and second...whines in all gears..rpm drops from 1100 to 500 when cold...I put gasket sealer on pan gasket...i was told by someone that this could make valve body malfunction...after tranny warms up it works fine but still has whining noise at all speeds

The most common cause of transmission whine is front pump failure, which would explain the other symptoms.
If any sealer got into the pan it might cause a blockage. Try getting it commercially flushed with a transmission flushing pump. (most shops have them)

whoops..it is a 1994..not 2004...

I want to change to 1994 not 2004 Nissan

my question is...why was the transmission okay before i changed the fluid and filter?...I have heard that that the detergents in new fluid can cause tranny to mess up..but..damn

1997 Nissan Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1997 nissan pick-up xe will run for a few minutes than the battery will die and truck will die.Changed the alternator and battery.Turn the key to the on position and the alt light will not come on.Disconnected warning light connector at the alt and jumped the L lead to ground and light works.Check for loose connections and checked the wires from the alt to battery all good.With the engine running volts at the battery and alt (13v) slowly drops than the truck dies.Sometimes with the key off and out of the ignition all the warning lights on the instrument panel will stay on except for the alt light.Please help.

Hi,
Please remove your alternator and have tested again to see if it is charging.On installation please adjust your alternator bel properly.Loose belt will afect your alternator output.In the mean time charge your battery.When you start your vehicle after charging your battery and had your alternator checked you will have enough time for engine to run and NOT to quit while checking your alternator output,conections,etc...Also check your fuses,the CHARGING FUSE on fuse box under dash/driver's side.
Regarding the dash lights remaining on after removing the ignition key check your ignition switch or replace it.
It is a common problem
Good luck.
Best regards,
Peter
ps: Auto technician

1997 Nissan Pick-up Engine   

"Service engine soon" light on. Fault "Misfire #3 cylinder". Replaced plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and fuel filter same fault. Swapped #2 and #3 injectors same fault. Ignition system ok, voltage to injector ok, continuity from injector to ECM ok. Idles fine seems to misfire or miss above around 1200 rpm. Could ECM be the problem?

Yes ECM may be a problem.Check all pertinent connections closely first. You might also want to go a bit 'old school; and do a compression test first. A low cylinder, sticking valve or bad cam follower (lifter) might also cause a miss.
If you have access to an auto wrecker, the computer might be reasonably priced.

1996 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System   

After a fender-bender, my 1996 nissan pick-up doesn't seem to get fuel from the tank into the engine. If i place a small amount in the carburator, it will turn on an run until the small amount of fuelds ends, but it will not pump from the tank. At first I thought there was an impact shut-off valve, but I can't find any. I've already replaced the fuled pump, but that didn't help either. Any help would be appriciated.

After the tank the fuel filter may be vapor locked or just cloggged
you can follow it back and clear the lines to the tank with air pressure of blowing it back to unplug it and you may want to put in a gas and injector cleaner to help clean the system when you get it going again
I hop this helps

1996 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System   

I have some trouble codes that i am having a problem with 1105, 1400, 1130, 1441, 0446.

Here are the definitions of the codes
P1105-Barometric pressure sensor
P1400-Incorrect voltage from EGR solenoid
P1130-Swirl control valve
P1441-Auxiliary emission control
P0446-Evap cannister vent control valve


There is a common ground in harness that is crimped , the problem is the crimp loses ground and will set various codes including some of the ones you have!! Do a wiggle test on harness with truck running, where the harness runs near valve cover up to bulkhead at firewall. Splice is in this harness and all you have to do is soldier it! Usually vehicle will go crazy when you do the wiggle test or die! There is another a ground wire to the cannister purge valve which is aboove the spare tire in the rear of the truck that sometimes breaks. Good hunting!!

1995 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System Chugging Happens always 

my truck is not taking gas. it starts right up but idles rough and when you start to go it's almost like its running out of gas. i personally have changed the plugs and wires,ignition coil and put in a new air filter. a local mechanic put a new throttle body and mass air flow sensor on the truck. none of this has helped and i am at my wits end please help. something to keep in mind is the vehicle has over 200,000 miles on it. its the only vehicle i have ever owned and has a ton of sentimental value to me

Have you changed the distributor cap and rotor? They can cause this same symptom. You should also check your fuel pressure because low pressure can cause this symptom as well.

1995 Nissan Pick-up Engine   

I was wondering if I can swap the engine from a 1985 pickup and put in the 1995 pickup. Would there be a real mess doing it? Thank you

the motor is a 2400 series,

the motor in the 95 is a 2400 series and not sure what the 85 is,,will they interchange

It is not possible to answer this query without knowing what engine size is from the 1985 model. Here are some other thoughts to ponder:

Are the transmissions both automatic, standard shift, or one of each? Are both engines fuel injected? Will your 1995 wiring harness run the 1985 model with all of the sensor's connections provided for? Will your 1995 wiring harness connect the Engine Control Module (ECM) at all?

Thinking out loud,

Roger

1995 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System Malfunction When driving Always

engine dosnt respond to throttle in mid-range rpm's, in neeutral once it hits about 2000 rpm it drops back down then goes back up unless peddle is to the floor. The computer is giving 45 for the code, which is leaking fuel injector but ive had the fuel system tested already, has new plugs, wires, rotor + distributor cap, fuel filter/sending unit, and air temp sensor, i thought it would have been the throttle position sensor but the computer shows different, anyone know a diagnosis?

There is a bulletin for this problem- if you have the 4 cylinder engine (I don't know if it applies to the V6)?

I may have to give you a link to the view the bulletin. I've been trying to get it to load for ten minutes but am having a problem with Adobe Acrobat.

Here is a direct link to Nissans TSB on Code 45- highlight, copy, and paste into your address bar-

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/data.asp?sid=[redacted] &uid=s[redacted] .main.autorefctr&type=pdf&ff=042000

1995 Nissan Pick-up All Part Groups   

Where do I locate the "electronic module"? I am trying to program a new keyless remote.

Hello, Look under the right side of the seat.

Did you find it?,

Roger

The driver's seat?

Is this a left hand drive? The computer is supposed to be under the front seat on the right side of the truck.

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

1995 Nissan Pick-up Engine   

How do I install a v belt for the air conditioning compressor on my 1995 Nissan King Cab 4X4? I have tried to do it, but I couldn't get it to fit. I even took the compressor right off but with the new belt in place, I couldn't get the compressor back in position. Not enough movement of the compressor to fit the new belt on. I must be missing something here. Any ideas? Thanks. Paul.

There should be a sticker somewhere underhood with the belt routing diagram. Make sure to follow it carefully.

Any chance you have the wrong size belt?

If you need an image of the belt routing please let us know which engine you have, the 2.4L four cyl. or the the 3.9L six cyl.

3.0 v6

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] d[redacted] .gif

Let me know if this matches your application.

1995 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System   

while driving my 1985 nissan pickup,itwould cut off like it was runnin out of gas. i would pour a little gas in carb and it would crank up until it used up this little gas and cut off. after a while of puttin a little gas in carb it would stay running and i would drive on. i changed fuel filter outside of fuel tank and no good--cleaned filter in bottom of electrical fuel pump--no good. there is a clicking sound comining from carb when i switch ignition on. is this normal? also i found a fuse for fuel pump that puts out battery when igition is on but back at elec fuel pump there was no battery--is this normal or is there a relay or something that tells the fuel pump to turn on--in the mean time i ran a new wire from fuse panel back to fuel pump and fuel pump works okay--by the way i had changed the fuel pump to a universal electrical fuel pump--no difference so i put orginal pump back on

Hi, Yes the click on the carb at key on is normal.

The electric fuel pump will get power for about two seconds when the key is turned on.

What engine please?

Roger

Did you see my message?

Roger

4 cyl 2.0 i believe

There is a fuel pump relay in the system. I can send you a wiring diagram. May I have your email address please?

Roger

my email is [redacted]

I'll send the diagram.

Roger

you sent me a 1994 wiring --it it same as 1985 wiring---if power is only a pump for a few sec how does pump operate after a few secs

I'm sorry, I should have double checked the year model. In your text you stated you have a 1985 and the header for the question shows to be a 1995.

I'll send what I find for the 1985 model.

Roger

do you know where this relay is located--anddoes this relay stay operated when ignition is on and motor is running--i don't understand what you mean by pump gets power for 2 sec- can youexplain please--thanks

I would expect the fuel pump relay to be under the hood as I do not see provision for relays in the under dash fuse box.

I am not finding the wiring diagram for the 1985. I'm going to release the question so that others can answer so I do not waste time. You deserve an answer.

As to the two second power up of the fuel pump when the key is turned on I was referring to the 1995 model where fuel injection is used. The two second power up of the fuel pump is to pressure up the fuel system rail or prime the mechanical pump for engine start.

I will now release the question in the hope of saving you valuable time.

Roger

mark when you said the clicking from carb was normal were you thinking of1985 and do you know what this clicking represents---thanks

If it is an '85 model, there is a solenoid in the carb for the float bowl vent. Solenoids usually click once. If it is repeatedly clicking, it might be sticking or have a bad connection.Sounds like the carb float bowl is having the gas evaporate and thus the hard starts.Considering the year and mileage, it might be time for a rebuilt carb

did you ever find the wiring diagram for the 1985 nissan pickup

There are many pages in wiring diagram, if you can find an inexpensive Haynes Manual they have about 20 pages of diagrams that are easy to read.They cost about $15 new

1995 Nissan Pick-up All Part Groups   

"check" light stays on sometimes, then goes off.

Might be a good idea to get it scanned for codes, as a sensor might be on the verge of failing.Even if it is scanned when the check engine light is off, a code might still be found as some are stored in the computers memory.
A few things you might want to check are the sensor connections on the engine, and fluid levels, and the tightness of the gas cap.I have found codes set when a Nissan cap is loose.

Thanks Bruce. I appreciate your rapid response. That gas cap posibility might be it. I had installed a locked type cap several months ago. Might be a good idea to install the original. Again, thanks Bruce.

locked caps sometimes are not sealed.The vapor recovery system is part of the emissions system.

1995 Nissan Pick-up All Part Groups   

To follow up about "check" light coming on then going off. As suggested, I removed the "locked" type gas cap and replaced it with the original. The "check" light remains off! My question is: What is code 32?. Another question, how do I remove impressions left on the body of the truck after the signs was removed?

Hello, Code 32 "EGR valve does not operate. (EGR valve spring does not lift.)" indicates a fault in the EGR valve or EGR control solenoid valve.

EGR/BPT vacuum hose is a common fault as the hose breaks frequently. Check this hose first. Replace if needed.

Next check the EGR valve and EGR control solenoid for proper operation.

If the EGR valve and EGR control solenoid are good, then the problem is in the wiring or the Powertrain Control Module. (PCM).

Impressions left by signs removed are tough to polish out as the paint under the sign does not oxidize as fast as "unprotected" paint does. I recommend contacting an auto detail shop for suggestions concerning products sold locally to use on this problem.

Roger

Thanks Roger. Your expertise is well appreciated.

If you need something further please ask. If not please click on OK to finish up and that will close the question.

I thank you,

Roger

1995 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

starter won't turn intermittent problem, took off starter had tested at shop they said it's fine. battery tested it's fine. When I put battery on load tester it shows sustained 450 amps. put startter back on. Now it will turn over about 5 seconds then starts dragging. [Truck used to start almost immediately now won't start (can't troubleshoot that because of starter issue)] After that starter won't turn anymore. can hear solenoid clicking. When it first turns over dims headlights. when solenoid clicks and starter doesn't turn lights don't dim. Have cleaned all connections and checked all cables.

First, get a helper. Test the voltage from the battery + to - when the cranking is slow. It should be at least 10V. If OK, do the same test at the starter, from the starter case to the large power wire. It should be at least 9 volts. If the volts is below 9, track the ground or power back to the loss of voltage. I suspect a problem with a cable or cable connection that cannot be seen, but must be found by testing.
Sterlingfixer

hooked up voltmeter to try first test it reads about 12.6 at first turn on key it fluctuates as fuel pump runs etc from 12.1 to 12.2 when I try start it goes down to 11.9 when solenoid kicks starter won't turn over now.

Your volt reading is acceptable. Was this at the battery or the starter? If at the starter, then check the voltage on the small wire while attemping to start the truck. If it is also over 10V, you have a faulty starter. (failed solenoid)
Sterlingfixer

Thanks for your help, I ended up taking the starter back off and taking it back to O'Reily's to test again. This time the Junior High kid who tested it before ducked when he saw me coming and one of the older guys tested it and what do you know it was bad. Thanks again.

And thanks for the report.
Sterlingfixer

1995 Nissan Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

fuel pump is fine, but wont pump.

Hello,

Do you have spark? If yes, check the fuel pump fuse then the relay. You can swap a non-essential relay for test purposes. If both of these are fine you need to check for battery positive and ground at the fuel pump connector and repair whichever is at fault.

truck went up on lift and when it came down, it wouldn't start. Mechanic checked fuses and there was spark... He was able to check to see that the pump did work. He mentioned possibly the PCM

Were they welding on the vehicle?

Does the pump run if he jumpers the relay?

I clicked ok but didn't end questions. Did you get my last response?

not sure how he got it to pump, but he did

what methods would cause it to pump? Depending on the method, what would be the solution.

the mechanic jumped the relay. The wires are screwed in

are we still communicating?

Well the computer "turns on" the relay. The mechanic needs to determine if the relay is being turned on. If not he needs check the wire from the relay to the computer (aka PCM).

It could be the on signal, power to the relay (checking fuse was first, next is to confirm power is reaching the relay) OR the wire from the relay to the pump. He also needs to confirm the ground is not missing to the fuel pump connector.

I have been calling him and interrupting him, so wont call any more. If the wire is ok, then is there any other option? This is my last question. Sorry for the time spent.

I'd be happy to give you ten more dollars for your help. I know i haven't been organized.

Hello,

No need to stop communicating with me. I hope the interface is not pressuring you to limit communication (I don't know what it looks like on your end). While I'm obviously not availabe around the clock I intend to stick with your through the repair...

Did he check computer trouble codes?

If they insist on trying a PCM, get a used one as this should offer significant savings.

The fuel pump needs power and ground. Check the ground first to the fuel pump connector.

Next check for power at the relay. If power is present they need to jumper battery positive to the relay terminal (female receptacle) and see if the pump runs. This step, will check the batt positive from the pump to the relay and the ground at the same time.

Which is missing?

I will have to stop emailing and use the info you have given me. Thanks for your time.

1994 Nissan Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

AC/Heater Blower doesnt work. For months it only worked on high. Now it doesnt turn on at all. Fuse NOT blown. I even change the in-dash a/c controler box, still not work. I also noticed my ac on/off button never lights on either. Is there some breaker other than the fuse?? Or could the actual motor be shot. Is the blower motor and ac button conected in anyway (any relation to the ac button and the blower not working or is it two seperate problems)?

Hi,When a blower only works on high the problem is often the resistor pack mounted on the HVAC Case. Occassionally the fan control switch is bad but the resistor pack is the more common failure. The fan can work on high as there is a different circuit to power the blower when on high than when on a lower speed.

Disconnect the power connector at the blower motor. Start your truck and turn the fan switch on high and test for voltage present at the connector. If you have power at the connector but the motor won't run when plugged in the motor has failed. Replace it.

Find the resistor pack on the HVAC Case. It will have an electrical connector with several wires in it and the resistors will be bolted to the case. Remove the resistor pack and look for a broken wire or signs of overheating on the side hidden from view when installed. Replace as needed.

Your a/c on/off button may have a LED or a bulb burned out. If the system works you may choose not to replace the switch. Fix the fan first, then decide what you want to do about the a/c switch. There are only fuses and relays involved with the a/c system. No circuit breakers. You may have two problems.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

thanks for the help. I checked the power at the blower. It reads around 12v on high but hardly anything on low and medium speeds. So I think the blower is bad AND the resistor you mentioned is also bad. Any idea where this resistor is hiding?? Where do I look for it? near the blower? Or somewhere else?

The resistor board is mounted to the outside wall of the HVAC Case. The resistors need the airflow of the fan to cool them when the fan switch directs the powerflow through them to slow the fan motor speed.

Sometimes this resistor pack is under the hood and sometimes under the dash near the fan motor. It will be on the HVAC Case wall.

You lost fan speeds lower than high speed first. Then you lost the fan completely. Its wise to consider the resistors went bad (the first problem) and then the motor itself failed. I agree you have two problems.

Once you locate the resistors you can do continuity tests to determine if it has a problem should you not see the evidence clearly.

This can be important so you'll know if the resistors are the problem or the fan control switch has went out. Always look at connectors for signs of heat. A little extra effort will prevent you from buying the wrong parts or too many of them. Electrical parts are rarely returnable for a refund.

Roger

Almost got it.. the blower and resistor box was bad. Now both replaced and working. The only thing (you were hoping it was just a burnt out lamp) is the actual a/c on off button. It doesnt light which is no big deal, but it doesnt engage the a/c clutch. Pushing it in or out has no effect, the clutch never engages. You think I could have disconnected something accedently when replacing the ac/vent/heat controler box? The only fuse I can find is "Radio/ air cont". That fuse ok and radio works. Im thinking I need another a/c button unless you have any ideas.
Thanks so much for all your help.

See if you can verify voltage is arriving at the a/c switch. With the key on there should be power for the switch to command.

Are you confident the a/c has refrigerant and should come on even if the switch light itself is "burned out"?

Roger

1994 Nissan Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I turn off headlights (fully off) the right side (passenger side) headlight remains on. I replaced the light, checked fuses under the hood (all good) still have problem. If I remove the fuse, -light turns off. I have to unplug the light to keep from draining battery since the light remains on when the car is turned off.

Hi, Does the truck have Daytime Running Lights (DRL) or not?

Please advise,

Roger

Yes, and I had checked the front running lights and they are out (corroded) -- so I'm probably confriming where you are headed... So I' gonna go and replace them both since the metal sockets are corroded (bulbs look good but do not light).

Let me know what's next. I'll get a diagram for headlights with DRLs.

Roger

Please bring me up to date here. Have you fixed the problem?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System   

When I start my 1994 pick-up with a 2.4 liter engine and 5 speed manual transmission it does not want to idle and stalls. I could drive the truck but when I stop at a stop light the truck will stall if no gas is applied to the engine. I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor and gas filter but still have the same problem. I have no indication from the check engine light indicating a problem with the computer system.

The first thing that comes to mind is the MAP sensor.Not sure where it is on that year, but it has a vacuum hose and a plug with 3 wires.But a MAP sensor will usually set a code.
The only other thing might be a vacuum leak. You might start by looking at all the hoses carefully, checking for tight connections and no cracks.
When I find a suspicious loose hose, I try to cut 1/2" off end so the new connection is tighter.
I also tighten intake manifold bolts and throttlre body mounting screws,
.
The vacuun leak scenario, has appllied to cars/trucks even before fuel injection, with the same symptoms.

I checked vacuum leaks but could not find any leaks. Also engine type is a Nissan KA24E and appears not to have a sensor with three wires and a vacuum hose. Manual does not show any sensor similar to what was described.

that year Nissan might have a MAF sensor to regulate air/fuel ratio,

1994 Nissan Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

auto trans will not move in any gear

If fluid clean and level not low then you will require another trans.

even if its all gears

Yes.

ok thank you

1993 Nissan Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

I thought my clutch was going out, just won't release(engage). I rebuilt the master cylinder, replaced the slave cylinder, bled the system forever. About a pint's worth, all air was gone. Bled the clutch compensator also. It seems the clutch doesn't travel far enough. It moves, just a little.

Are you sure it is not continuing to get air in it? If all the parts were good it shouldn't take to long to bleed the system. The fact that it took forever seems to indicate air is entering the system or had not been fully purged. Watch the fluid in the reservoir while the slave cylinder rod is slowly pushed in. This will force fluid back into the master cylinder. Does any air bubbles appear in the master cylinder?

What I meant when I said it took forever, was that I bled, and bled, trying to get all the air out, and I thought the air was gone. In other words, I kept bleeding until I had gone through about a pint of fluid. Dean

1993 Nissan Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am pretty sure its electrical issue...I was driving at night and the engine and front headlights died at once.radio and emergency lights work, however headlights do not.(and they should even when engine is off).it cranks but wont start. no check engine light before this happened.no strange noises, it just died at once. when i turn the key, i hear the fuel pump working just like usual.

Yes, this is an electrical problem. Start by cleaning/replacing (as necessary) the battery terminals/cables. Same goes for the engine/body grounds (clean, inspect, replace). Never overlook fuses when you experience electrical failure. Check these out and get back to me.

I apologize for the late reply, I've been at school all day... I did check the battery terminals. One of the cables had snapped out of place. That solved my problem.. Thank you!
-Dimo

1993 Nissan Pick-up Engine   

won't crank

truck was running well just an hour before.. Now when I turn the key the ususal four waarning lights come on and clock backlight goes out but engine will not crank. All I hear is a quiet click. The battery is fully charged.

Hello, What engine and trans please? Is the battery charged and are connections clean and tight?

Roger

Engine model is VG30E. Connections as best I can see them appear to be ok.

Have you checked the neutral start switch for Park and Neutral positions allowing the engine to start, or if a standard is the clutch switch still providing continuity?

Roger

No I have not. This is an auto tranny. I have reacked the gear shift lever through all positions and back to park with no response. I have no service info on this truck. Is the nutral switch easy to access?

Yes, should be located on the side of the transmission where linkage can actuate it.

What is your email address? I'll send you a wiring diagram if you want one.

Roger

My email address is [redacted] . A wireing diagram would be very helpful. Looking at the shift cover, I see no screws to remove it. Does it pry up with a blade? Also the4 shipt handel looks like to won't allow the cover to lift completly off. This hand has the overdeive switch built into it.

Yikes! Let me send you the wiring diagram first. Then I'll be researching the replacement of the switch if needed.

Back later,

Roger

Thanks Roger. I won't place the dynamite under the shift lever just yet.

The "Inhibitor switch" is located under the truck on the right side of the transmision itself.

Roger

Thanks, found the inhibitor switch but could not disconnect the interconnect plug. May require a special tool for that. Also, I have a Clifford alarm system in the truck. Could this be a possible cause of the truck not starting? Is there a way I could disable this system? I don't need it anymore.

Yes, The alarm could be a cause. I'd need a wiring schematic to see how to bypass the alarm. I would expect to find that the Blk/Yel wire between the ignition switch and the starter inhibitor relay was cut and routed through a starter interrupt relay controlled by the alarm.

If you can find this relay by tracing the wires you could reconnect the two ends of the Blk/Yel wire together and see if the truck starts. If it does the relay for the alarm starter interupt should be replace if you can prove it won't energize.

Can you access the wiring at the inhibitor switch? Could you check to see if when the key in the on position you have power arriving at the switch connector on the Wht/Blk wire from Fuse #K (10 amp)? Is Fuse #K a good fuse?

Have you located the inhibitor relay on the left front inner fender panel? When the key is in the start position (and the trans is in Park or Neutral position) does power arrive at the relay on the yellow wire?

Roger

1991 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System Won't Start  No pattern

No dash lights or radio, head lights work, bell bing for key in ignition with door open now a very light click. No start

Hello, Do you have a volt meter? Does the battery show to have 12 volts? Have you tried to jump start? Are the battery cable connections clean and tight? Any fuses blown? Have you checked the fuses in the relay box under the hood? If your truck is a manual transmission, have you checked the switch that the clutch actuates when you press the clutch to the floor for engine start?

Please advise,

Roger

1991 Nissan Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

just finished a tranny swap from auto to manual....what wires do I need to make sure they are jumpered cut or bypassed to get the engine to start up

The neutral saftey swithh (column shift at base of column, floorshifter? at shifter) Those would be important. Later, take the neutral saftey switch wire and splice it into a clutch pedal saftey switch. This will enable the truck to only start when clutch pedal is depressed. (A saftey and possibly important legal thing!)

the truck is turning over the switch is in position to allow the starter circuit to engage....just can't get the coil to produce spark, there is power at the coil terminals, induction unit, swapped coils, distributor, even the ecu...now every thing is back to original and still no ignition...

You might try the crank position sensor or have it scanned for codes, whether you get a check engine light or not.

1988 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System   

I have a 88' pickup w/ z24 motor. will start and Idle fine but when it warms up or I step on the throttle it just dies. I can feather the throttle up to high idles (4500-5000 rpm)and stays running fine. Let off the throttle and it dies. Starts back up and idles fine but as soon as you give it gas it dies. It also has be backfiring through the throttle body randomly. Replace the TPS and didn't help. Please Help!!

Try disconnecting the exhaust and see if it still the same. Might be a partially plugged catalytic converter.

1988 Nissan Pick-up All Part Groups   

My truck won't start replaced the starter the battery the plugs and wires the ignition switch checked all the fuses now I being told the engine overheated and seized but the dash light all work and the never showed the truck was hot what can iI do

Hello,

Does the starter just make a loud click when you attempt to start?

Did you try to turn the engine over by hand?

If it will not turn, remove the spark plug and see if this allows it to turn?

How is the oil level?

Did you hear any noise before it quit?

the starter does click and no I have not removed the drive belt or tested the spark yet

no noise and the oil level is good

Okay, remove the drive belt and plugs and check to see if the engine is seized.

Thank you I thought it might be the clutch switch or the ignition switch but i will do this first thanks

If the starter clicks, either:

The cable to the starter is inoperative.

The starter is weak, remove and have bench tested at your local chain auto parts store (call ahead to be sure they offer the free service).

Lastly, the engine or a pulley driven component is seized.

Give me an update.

I am done for the evening, so i WILL CHECK IT IN THE MORNING thank you

1988 Nissan Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

just put a clutch in my 1988 nissan pick-up,run good for about 4months under nomal driving,then all of a sudden,i could be driving along and hear grining noise coming from transmission,manual.it always went in gear.but now it still go,s in gear,but when you let out on the clutch,it makes that grining noise again,only now you can here it louder as you give it more gas.i was told it could be throw-out bearing,what ever that is.the clutch only been in the truck 5 months,i put it in,my first time ever doing anything like that.could i have forgotten to do something..........help

Hello, The throw out bearing does not bear load unless the clutch pedal is pushed down. When pushing down the clutch it is the throw out bearing that pushes against the spinning pressure plate spring tongs to disengage the clutch. What happens to the sound tone you hear when you press on the clutch? Does it become a heavier sound?

If you didn't replace the throw out bearing when you replaced the clutch, a new bearing may be all you need if the clutch still performs all right.

How much clutch pedal travel (slack) do you have at the top before you feel resistance to pedal travel?

Roger

i didn,t replaces the throw-out bearing when i put in the new clutch.when i push the clutch pedal down it perform as nomal,only when i let out on the clutch is when it makes the noise and as you accellerate the noise increase

I recommend the throw out bearing be replaced. Surely the sound changes considerably when you press the clutch down.

When fully released the clutch throw out bearing does not bear load but it rotates due to lightly resting against the clutch pressure plate springs.

It is good preventive maintenance to replace the throw out bearing as part of any clutch replacement job.

The transmission will need to be slipped back from the engine to access the bearing but the clutch need not be disturbed at all.

Roger

yes i,am sorry,when you press the clutch in,thats when the noise start,but you also here it while driving as you give the gas

Thank you. My recommendation is to replace the throw out bearing and that should get you fixed up.

Roger

now i have contacted the auto parts store where i perchase the clutch kit and he saided the bearing came with the clutch,i remember puting some bearing on a rod that ran into the middle of the motor were the transmission hooks-up,but i didn,t pack it with grease or anything,cou;d that still be the problem

The bearing can indeed be the problem but it is not one that the installer would pack like a wheel bearing. It is a factory sealed bearing. You may have warranty on the bearing but not your labor.

Roger

i,am going to drop the transmission tomorrow and see whats going on beffore i let you know if that was indeed the problem

Update me when you can. I want to help.

Roger

i got the transmission out of the 1988 nissan truck,and everything looks o.k...the only thing i saw that wasn,t right,it had no transmission fluid in it,i notice the drain plug was not tight at all,i did not drive it but a couple of miles after it started making the noise.i don,t think i hurt anything..do you still sujest i replace the throw-out bearing and pivit bushing..or do you think all i need to do is add transmission fluid and everything will be alright

How does the throw out bearing feel when you turn it by hand? Any roughness or odd sound? You be the judge.

How could it be the transmission was out of fluid? That's kinda scary seeing as how you have removed it twice now......I never once considered the fluid level had not been checked based on the description of the noise.

Roger

the throw out bearing turned nicely ,no sound or noise was heard,as far as the transmission being out of fluid,being my first time doing something like that,i probably didn,t tighten the plug fully tight,i can,t blame anybody for that except me,as i saided the bearing turn real smooth,without any noise.you are the expert what do you think i should do.the chulch even looked like it did when i put it in,like new.am not going to release this question to any one else,you have been a big help and am going to stick with you to the end.but what do you think i should do now...

The bearing came new with the clutch kit according to what the parts store employee told you. Now that you have seen it, it reminds you that you did replace it. Correct? If it is new it won't likely have a fault this soon after installation.

Put it back together and put the fluid in. Let's pray it turns out perfect.

Roger

i think what am going to do is put a new bearing in it,refill it with transmission fluid and see if that will solve the problem,oh by the way what do you think about replacing the pivit bushing,i heard that will also cause it to make that noise,because i didn,t replace it when i put the new clutch in

Now is the time to take the steps needed to have the confidence you won't have to go back in for some inexpensive part just to make it a complete and reliable repair. Does the pivot bushing show wear? Any doubt calls for a new bushing.

Roger

o.k.but do you think by the transmission being emity with fluid that i have cause damaged to the transmission.like i saided ,i didn,t drive it after it started maling the noise.i cranked it up in the yard and it changed gears just find and pull up and backward,i hope it will be alright.the only problem there was ....was that noise we been talking about all along.iam put the new bearing in,and new pivit bushing just in case and fill it up with transmission fluid and i will let you know something in a couple of days

Great! I'll look for your successful story to unfold.

Roger

well roger,i guess am do for another transmission.i found out some things today that i shouldn,t have done.first of all when i changes that clutch the last time,i put artomatic transmission fluid back in it and the noise that i,am hereing is the shaft that the throw-out bearing go on,not the bearing.so i guess i maded a mess of things for real this time.i went back with gear oil this time,but nothing happen,i didn,t replaces the bearing after i realises what i had done,any subjestion,because i,am out of patieance with this thing by now,i hate to get rid of it,maybe i can find me a cheap transmission somewhere.

You could find a used transmission in a salvage yard, or check on a rebuilt one from a parts store.

Does the transmission sound better with the correct gear oil in it? Does it work but is just noisey? Might be an additive for that.....

If it is still a good truck it will be cheaper to fix it than to replace it.

Roger

well i didn,t let it run but about 10 minutes,but it did seem to get kind of quite the longer it ran.iam going to take it down off the blocks in the morning and let it run for awhile and see what happens.you spoke about a adjective ,what would be something that you would subjests

First you will need to drain enough gear oil from the transmission to make room for whatever you will be adding.

One additive is ROYAL PURPLE Synchromax transmission fluid. Another brand is AMSOIL. Both are a synthetic product said to improve shifting and reduce noise.

Roger

1987 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

No warning signs other than it seemed like I had to push the clutch in really far the last couple of times to get it to start. Thought it had something to do with the switch that has to be engaged by the clutch pedal to get it to start. Get no indication whatsoever that the truck is thinking about starting.

If pushing the clutch down farther allows the starter to engage, you are correct to start with the clutch switch. It may be out of adjustment or worn.

I may have already screwed things up. There seems to be two switches. There is one that appears to disengage when you push the clutch in. I didn't mess with that one. There is another one at the bottom of the clutch travel. I have found from driving that the clutch pedal has to be pushing the little button in before the truck will start.

I took out this switch and then just twisted the two wires together. Nothing changed. Was that a dumb thing to do? I thought I was bypassing the button that might be defective.

It would be better to test the switch with an ohm meter. The bad part of twisting the wires together is you are bypassing a safety device, which no one can recommend. Test the other switch with an ohm meter if possible.

I tested the button I took out (the one right on the floorboard. It works just fine, so I guess that wasn't the problem. Thanks for the tip on using the ohm meter. I don't know why I didn't think of that before I started clipping wires!

Do I need to test the other one I mentioned? It is the one that is activated as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed.

Yes, if there is more than one switch test them both.

I will see if I can figure out how to do that tomorrow. What purpose does this button serve?

Are you sure the battery/cables/grounds/ and wires to starter are okay? Do the headlights, radio, and accessories work?

Yes, all accessories seem to be working. I even tried to jump it and had the same result (no indication of any starting activity.

You will need to check for starting voltage to the solenoid (the small wire) with a test light or dc voltemeter.

I may be in over my head. I can't find the starter solenoid. Any tips as to what it looks like.

What'll be easiest is to give you a link to a free repair guide which will allow you to study your starting system/circuitry.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Before I got your message, I paid for two online guides. Neither one was as accurate as the free one you sent. The layouts on the other sites weren't right. This one helped me figure out the wiring scheme properly.

Okay, time for "Unsolved Mysteries". I put my voltage tester on the solenoid and saw that I was getting voltage when my daughter started the car. That led me to believe it was the starter. I changed out the starter this morning and nothing. I could hear faint electrical sounds just like before. I took the old core to return it and had it tested. I saw the gear thing poke out and it spun around. The device said Pass, then it said fail. The helper wasn't very experienced but thought it was an intermittent fault. Who really knows!

I thought maybe it was the starter relay. Didn't know what else to check. When to Carquest and they thought it still might be the battery (even though jumping it didn't help. I brought the battery back and they said it was 80% charged, but looked good.

Couldn't think of anything else to do, so bought the relay. Unfortunately, I did 3 things at once. I charged the battery for a while, cleaned off the battery cables and installed the new relay. IT STARTED RIGHT UP? What do you think the ultimate fault was?

"His guess is no better than hers."

Did it ever work with the new starter? After the cocktail or remedies you performed, is this the first time it started?

I'm curious which subscription sites you paid for, if you have the information handy.

I bought online manuals from www.eautorepair.net and www.alldatadiy.com

In both sites, the under the hood configurations shown didn't match my truck. The freebie site you sent me matched exactly!

After I cleaned the battery cables, replaced the starter relay and charged the battery up from 80% to 100%, it fired right up.

One of my buddies thinks maybe the negative terminal connection wasn't good. As I said before I put a multimeter on the starter and grounded to chassis. It showed current when my daughter engaged the starter. I guess that would test the electricity flow, other than the ground connected to the battery.

Any thoughts?

Mitchell is the most respected name in the industry for wiring diagrams, but not in this case. I think both sites owe you a refund for not providing what you paid for.

Okay,

My first guess is a bad connection (would of allowed the circuit to receive initial voltage but not enough current to operate). With all the connection you were dealing with, it is really hard to say which one for sure.

You were testing to the small wire on the starter, and not the large post that is directly connected to the starter motor (assuming). The small wire would prove the switch, etc were doing their job. The large wire would subsequently test the solenoid and battery cables/connections/etc.

Now, for the kicker- If the battery was at 80% that is enough to operate the starter. But may not be enough to overcome a bad connection, relay, etc. But if you certainly had a good connection with jumper cables, that pretty much eliminates the battery.

If you are really curious, I'd reinstall the old relay. If it works you had a bad connection (somewhere). If it doesn't you obviously had a defective relay.

Starting back at the beginning of this post, nothing explains why pushing the clutch further down helped the truck to start. Must of been coincidence.

Thanks for all of the help and advice. I'm afraid to undo anything now that it works just to satisfy my curiosity. I will declare victory. I haven't had much luck with car repairs, so will savor this accomplishment. That 87 Pick-up with no power steering, power brakes, or AC is a good one for me to work on. I bought it new in 1987. When I asked the salesman what it came with, he said "a key and a heater". That was no exageration. It has been a really good vehicle over the years.

1987 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

my truck went dead.checked ign coil wire for fire.no fire.has power into distributor with key switched on and power into both coils.cant find an impulse (blinking light) coming out of dist. when cranking engine.changed dist. with one from used auto parts place.can you tell me how to test dist. to see if its functional or any other test to find the problem,thank you

do you have a 2.4 or 3.0?
Which of the three do you have a
1 carbuerated?
2 full body?
3 or individual fuel injected system?

2.4 engine family:HNS2.4TSHDF9,the breather cover says "electro injection"

If you do not have power coming from coil then that is where we need to start not the distributor at this point.
check for 9 to 12 volts at the coil going in and then you will need to test the coil output for spark ,
If there is no spark on the secondary side of the coil then you have to deal with the problem there.

i have 9 volts at both coils but no spark coming from the coil wire when the engine is cranked over

I cannot see you having two coils going out at the same time so First thing you want to do now is take off the rotor and visually check turning.

then get a new cap and rotor and try that
the next thing would be the ignition control module that will probly be bad if these others are good to go.

1987 Nissan Pick-up Fuel System   

87 nissan d21 4wd 3.0l v6 i have had this truck about a month and noticed it detonated and pinged on accel and would not rev over 4500 rpm. i found the timming a tooth off and set the timming the detonation and pinging went away but it still would not rev over 4500. as it has ben getting colder it has had a harder time starting and at random it will not idle or make enough power to move but for only a few min then runs good to 4500. today it had a hard time starting and will not idle or make enough powre to move fuel pressure is at 40psi and i recorded some dtcs from the flashing lights on the ecm, 12, 23, 43, and 51 but cand see what they mean

Code 11 -- Crank angle sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 12 -- Air flow meter circuit malfunction.
Code 13 -- 200SX w/VG30E engine, Pathfinder & Pickup w/VG30i engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Cylinder head temperature sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 13 -- 200SX w/CA20E engine, Pathfinder & Pickup w/Z24i engine, Pulsar, Sentra, Stanza, Stanza Wagon & Van. Water temperature sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 21 -- Ignition signal missing in primary coil.
Code 22 -- Maxima, Stanza, Stanza Wagon, 200SX & 300ZX. Fuel pump circuit malfunction.
Code 22 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine. Idle speed control slips out.
Code 33 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Exhaust gas sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 34 -- Pulsar w/CA16DE engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Detonation sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 41 -- 200SX w/VG30E engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Fuel temperature sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 41 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, 200SX w/CA20E engine, Stanza & Stanza Wagon. Air temperature sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 42 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Throttle sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 43 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine. Mixture ratio feedback control slips out.
Code 43 -- Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Injector circuit malfunction.
Code 44 -- All monitored systems satisfactory.
The diagnostic code retained in the ECU will automatically be erased after starter is operated for 50 times.
Nothing avail for code 51 but all the codes you have will make it run poor.Since it is a series of codes, it might be the ECM.

this sight makes it sound like i would be helped by tecs to be possably pointed in the corect direction maby diagnose the problem or something like that i would take it to some one but most tecs in this area dont like working on stuff like this old and with info on them hard to find

We cannot fix the problem remotely , only offer advice.
The fact that your codes say you have a problem with air flow meter malfunction and mixture ratio feedback as well as an injection circuit problen, leads me to believe you have a problem with the CPU or main computer. It is a small box under the dash. Can be found readily at auto wreckers.
Be sure you specify year, engine size as well as transmission type.
The only other option would be replace air flow meter (no user parts inside to fix) and the injectors. The CPU would be the least costly to replace if we are guessing.

ok first off the ecu is located under the passanger seat and second i all ready said that the ecm did not fix it so can i get my money back ide be better off just guessing my self.

If you review your orig question below you will see no mention of ecm replacement
If ecm replaced then you will have to test the individual components and the wiring to them

well if you had not advisded me to replace the ecm saying it was likly the ecm and advised me to preform some test i would have done test first so you know i wasted money on you and the ecm with your "guess"

this is pointless i want my money back

ok

1986 Nissan Pick-up Engine Malfunction When driving When warm 

when accelerrating after trailing throttle,engine will quit,but will start back after mashing throttle.could it be the throttle switch?

Yes it could, more frequently call the throttle position sensor. YOu local parts store should be able to test this sensor for you (off the engine) free of charge. Call ahead.

sort of a vauge answer. i thought there would be some pointres.

Sure-

Does your check engine light come on while the engine is running?

Do you have a repair manual for your vehicle?

no engine light does not come on ,yes i have a manual,but it is very vauge,says to consult nissan tech.
engine timing is correct,idle rpm is correct,this problem just came out of the blue.

Use the following link to access a repair guide that may contain more information than your paper manual-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Do you have an ohm-meter?

1986 Nissan Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

I have just lost all clutch pressure. I checked the clutch fluid resevoir and it was empty, although I can't find any leaks underneath the vehicle. Filled the reservoir up, let it sit for a few minutes and tried pumping the clutch pedal, yet no pressure. Should I try again in a few hours? Or something else?

just paid via paypal, any idea?

You will need to bleed the system, just like bleeding hydraulic brake systems. Follow the hose from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder has a bleeder screw. If it is empty you have a leak somewhere.

1985 Nissan Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems  When stopped 

The battery light remains on when engine is off. I just replaced an old battery, however it was doing this before. Any suggestions on why the battery light remains on. Oh it does go off after the engine is running. It is only on when engine is not running

The battery light should be on when the engine is off but the key is on. The light should go off when the engine is started. If this light stays on when the key is off or out of the ignition- two things come to mind. First is a problem with the alternator. Simply drive the truck to any chain autoparts store (Autozone, Parts America, etc) and have them check the charging system (free of charge in the parking lot). Explain to them the problem and tell them you want the alternator thoroughly tested.
If other dash lights remain on also you may have a problem with the ignition switch.

1985 Nissan Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 1985 Nissan 720 Pickup automatic 3speed. I purchased a wrecked truck with 5speed manual to change out transmission. As we were removing the manual transmission we broke off what appears to be some kind of plastic vent close to where the shifter is. I have looked for this so called vent at various part stores with no luck. Is this something I can just plug up or does it need to be replaced?

Have you tried the dealer or a local salvage yard? It is better to be safe than sorry.

1985 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

I am not getting spark to ignition coil or plugs what do i need to look for ?

Two things for starters. Make sure the distributor rotor turns (timing mechanical). Next check for Key ON battery positive voltage to the coil (one end of test light to a known good ground the other to the coil positive).

If you have these there is likely failure of the distributor electronics.

Copy and paste the following link into your address bar--

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/c4/2[redacted] c423.jsp

It'll take you an online repair guide with wiring diagrams and information on the distributor electronics.

I Am getting spark to exhaust coil and plug i only have 8 volts at ignition coil

Try jumpering 12 volts and see if the coil will fire. Perhaps the coil is shorting and drawing the voltage down. Test with wire disconnected to see if voltage increases.

i have jumped a wire i then have spark it is very weak i have already changed out the coil

1985 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

I have no spark on my intake coil this truck has a dual coil system i have replaced the ic unit i have also replaced the coil i have 13 volts at both coils i have checked all wiring and ic unit and distributor for open wires all check good i recently changed all plugs and wires

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/af/9e/[redacted] af9e/repairInfoPages.htm

If you are only missing fire at one coil, this could explain it.

does this link me to a service manual

Yes.

Also have you checked the continuity of the trigger wire from the coil to the ic unit?

I have checked the contnuity at of all wires going to the ic unit all check good i tried the repair page you gave and it said it is no longer good

Try this link-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/ac/3[redacted] ac33/repairInfoPages.htm

Then click on 'Spark Plug Switching Control System' to get to the page I want you to see.

If this still not work leave your email address and I'll send you the information directly.

I recived the info I will give it a try thank you for your time this is the only part i have not checked it has nothing about the switch in my service manuel

1985 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

i would like to know where the spark plug switching control vacuum switch is located on a 1985 nissan 720 pick-up with dual ignition i have changed out the icu i have no spark on the intake coil. all wiring checks good

Hello, Carb or fuel injected? What size engine? Electronic or distributor ignition please?

Roger

z24 engine pointless ignition and carburator

Software data calls for 2.0L or 2.4L

May I say the Z24 = 2.4L?

Do you have power to the intake coil? Do you have a wiring diagram?

I'll see if I can find the location of the switch you asked about.

Roger

the engine is a z24 i have power at the exhaust coil only i have changed out the intake coil icu and ecu the the wiring schematic i have is real small and hard to read the emisson control schematic shows the wires come from the detonation control unit and the ecu to the icu to the coil. the vacum hose comes from the vacum delay valve i really need to know where the spark plug switching control vacum switch is located

the engine is a 2.4 liter

What is your email address please? I think I found what you are looking for.

Roger

[redacted]

I'll send you two email pages.

Roger

looks good i will copy these pages and try to get this damn thing running thanks for your help

I hope that will do it for you.

If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up.
If not ready, please advise.

Roger

1985 Nissan Pick-up Engine   

Engine runs great cold,when it heats to running temp it sputters & backfires when excellarating?

This could be a few things. Best to start with a good tune-up. Including:

Spark plugs (clean & gap or replace)

Plug wires and distributor rotor/cap (inspect or replace)

Fuel and air filters

Try this and get back to me.

Requested work completed,still not right, bypassed vacuam system when at operating temp & still not right.

Do you get any smoke from the exhaust when the sputtering occurs? Notably black smoke.

no smoke seen

Will the engine sputter/backfire when the condition is present if your are in Park/Neutral?

If yes, look under the hood at the coil and plug wires for stray spark. Darkness works best, but in any event USE

Sorry not use to my new laptop and hit send by accident...

PLEASE USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS.

Is any stray spark present?

i will check, back fire seems to be comming through carb...

Okay, note any crossfiring between the wires.

1984 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System Malfunction When starting Always

I have a z24 with two coils and 8 spark plugs.
but the exhaust side coil is not firing.
I check the coil it is good, i put a rebult distibutor in and the same thig, so I check the ic unit as discribed in the book and it seems ok.
I checked the wiring from the coils to the ic unit and they ring out ok.
In the book they only have E B I on the ic unit I have E B C I, and i can not fined out whith wire go's were IE E to intake side coil.

Try the diagrams at the following site to see one matches your truck (note- a year newer might be match your application).

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/b5/c[redacted] b5c6.jsp

The link also contains a repair guide which may be helpful.

I could not fined any thing there

I have been unable to locate the diagram you need. I'll continue looking and post back if I find one. In the mean time I'll release the question to see if someone else has the information you need.

Nissan designed some of these vehicles so the
exhaust coil does not fire at idle, only fires under load or decelleration. Test procedures for this system are scarce. There is a part on the right fender that the vacuum diagram calls a vacuum regulator, when
disconnected from harness you should have spark at exhaust coil. This vacuum regulator may be the problem instead of ignition system as we were thinking.

1984 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

Does the Ignition Coil on for the Exhaust Side Fire? Because I don't get spark from it. Are Both Coils supposed to have Spark? If so, What could be the problem. Because both coils are Good. PLEASE HELP. I have an 84 Nissan truck

truck starts, but sounds like it has a miss

yes does fire check for power at coil with key on one side 12 volts other side ground if has power coil probably bad

There is no power to coil when ignition is on. Both Coils are good. What else could it be?

check wiring and fuseable links by battery and all fuses inside

1984 Nissan Pick-up Ignition System   

I have a 1984 Nissan Pick up, The truck will not start!! I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, Carberator, check the fuel lines made sure there was proper fuel coming to the carberator. I also made sure the timing was correct. I then found out that the spark plugs are getting no spark at all. I check the Ig. Module and replaced it as well but was wondering the last igntion module had five pins on it this one only has four is there a diagram or something special I have to do to get this component connected properly.

Is the replacement ignition module new? If yes, return it for the correct module.

Some chain auto parts stores can check ignition modules off the vehicle (free service), was your module bench tested before a replacement was bought?