Nissan Pulsar NX

1989 Nissan Pulsar NX All Part Groups Making Noise When driving No pattern

Hello. When I first purchased my car in 1989, the car made a "clicking" noise when the hatch was not closed properly. I was told that this is was an alarm to let the driver aware that the hatch was not closed. Now the clicking is constant even when I make sure the hatch is secure. Can you advise?

Inspect the switch at the hatch (there must me a switch that 'closes' when the hatch is shut). It is likely the switch is misadjusted or inoperative (you should be able to actuate the switch with your fingers).

I pushed the switch or latch in and I'm not sure if I should have the entire system replaced. Is there some other preventive measures that I can take besides replacing the whole thing?

You need to test the switch to see if it is working (disconnect the switch and use an ohm meter).

1988 Nissan Pulsar NX Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

I have gotten the car to start before, and could smell heavy fumes of bad gas. Since then the car has not started again, the engine chugs as thought it is trying, but it never turns over. Now I get nothing, not even a spark, but I'm thinking that particular problem is the starter being worn out. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, Does your starter continue to crank the engine, but now it no longer is 'trying' (firing/promising) to turn over (start)?

Having so much cranking time can lead to fuel fouled spark plugs. They could use a good cleaning, or if old, replacement may be good peace of mind.

That old fuel has got to go. Can you drain it? Clean fuel and filters (air & fuel) are very important when you are up against a situation you've described.

Clean the spark plugs, get some clean fuel and let me know what happens when you try again. We'll go from there. Even if the rascal doesn't start, if the chugging/trying to start is restored, don't flood it, please advise.

Roger

4-18-03 Still waiting to hear from you, please reply..

Roger

4-21-03. Please let me hear from you..

Roger

4-25-03. Please let me hear from you..

Roger

4-28-03. May I please have the courtesy of a response from you?

Roger

1988 Nissan Pulsar NX Ignition System  When driving When warm 

Cutting in and out as though every few seconds the ignition switch is repeatedly being turned off for a fraction of a second. This happens with all cylinders, not just one or two cylinders. Changing spark plugs and all four spark coils was no help. At times (rarely)it will drive several miles with out problem! Under heavey accelleration this cutting out and in can rock the driver and passenger back and forth, it is so dramatic. When starting (frequently) and driving (rarely)it will "backfire" out the tailpipe. When this is not going on, the engine is smooth and powerful. When this problem was first noticed, it seemed to run fine when cold only expressing the above problem when it had warmed up.

Check the ecm relay.

Also try a wiggle test. Do this to the key switch, wiring harnesses, etc attempting to make the problem go away (or get worse). Perform the wiggle test with engine running, but be extemely cautious around moving objects under the hood.

Here is a link that will assist you if you don't have a repair manual.

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste the link into your address bar.

What did you find?

If you need further assistance please give the engine size, 1.6L or 1.8L?

I had already tried the "Wiggle" test on the key switch and every wire under the hood. I found a connector not making good contact, cleaning it fixed it but not the described problem. Wiggling other wires had no influence on the problem. I will try locating the ECM Relay in my Chilton Manual.

1988 Nissan Pulsar NX Engine Won't Start When starting When warm 

I have a 1988 Pular NX 16i. It will initially start and if I let it idol for a few minutes, then turn the engine off and try to start it, it won't start. If I waiting for 5 or 10 minutes the engine will start again. I replaced the fuel injector and ECU, but still has the problem. Is there a relay or sensor I need to replace? Thank you Jeff"

You need to check for spark during the no start period?

If you have spark listen to see if the fuel pump runs when you turn the key on and during engine cranking?

Is one of these missing?

If not check for fuel injector pulse with a noid light. A noid light is available inexpensively at your local autoparts store.

1988 Nissan Pulsar NX Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

my head lights wont cancel off highbeam i have replaced dimmer switch which is a multi purpose , turn signal & dimmer switch i also replaced the head light switch as per the mechanic diag

Is the switch contained in the multifunction switch or is the multifunction switch simply a lever to activate the high/low beam switch? Also, is there a relay on your system?

doug the multifuntion switch has a lever which youpress down or pull up to control the high & low beam this lever also controls my turn signals. this is the hi & lo beam control. does this system have a relay, this is the question i am asking if so where is it located

Hi, use the following link for a repair guide that'll contain a wiring schematic and component locator. Copy and paste the following link into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Let me know if you have any trouble accessing the link.

doug this site shows me no schematic and component locator. doug i am a retired mechanic . ihad my own repair shop .i need a site which will show me a schematic of that head light wireing and components

Hello, I'm scrambling to find the wiring schematic.

Based on what parts you have replaced I have a suggestion.

Unplug both headlamps. See if the voltage to the headlight connectors will switch from low beam to high beam. If it will then one of the headlamps is defective.

I had this experience once. It turned out that the two filements inside one of the sealed beams were touching causing supply voltage to be shorted to both high and low beam circuits.

Roger

Will you please provide me your email address or a fax number? I have a wiring schematic I want to send to you. It's hard to read but it may be the help you need.

Did you try unplugging the sealed beams to see if you can switch voltage from low to high beam at the lamp connectors?

Could your Passing Relay be stuck?

Roger

roger i unpluged both head lights and moved the lever up & down still the high beam indicator light stayed on . roger where is this passing relay located. my (E) mail address is bigronjohn @yahoo.com. thanks for your efforts with this problem i have. please send schematic thanks.

I'll get that diagram to you. Did you test the voltage at the headlight connectors to see if the voltage remained present for only the high beams?

The passing relay is the second one from the front of the car on the row of six relays next to the battery.

You'll see when the email arrives.

Roger

How are you doing here, please? I could use an update.

Any news?

Roger

1987 Nissan Pulsar NX Ignition System Won't Start When driving No pattern

Why is my pulsar stopping? The problem will always occur when I am driving. The engine will simply die as if it were out of gas and won't restart for a period of approximately 15 to 45 minutes. After that I can start it as if nothing were wrong. I have had it taken to the shop several times to have the problem diagnosed but they say unless they can reproduce the problem they can't help. I have replaced the fuel pump relay and ECM but to no avail. I know this issue isn't unique for me. There has got to be others having experienced the problem. What now???

What you need to first determine is if you are losing spark during the stall and subsequent no start period. It may very well be ignition related vs a fuel problem.

Use the following link to access a repair guide for instructions on checking spark and further diagnosis-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

The last time it happened that is exactly what the mechanic said that I was trying to get to invesigate the problem. The answer is no, when the issue occured last I removed the spark plug boot and identified that there wasn't any spark generated during the attempted starts. This is a twin cam top cylinder car that uses 4 coil packs. After I informed him that the sparks weren't being generated he and another mechanic insisted that it was the ECM on the side of the engine. I replaced the part and the issue hasn't resolved.

Check for a loose or cracked ground wire between the intake and the engine computer. The igniter on top of the engine could also be at fault. The crank angle sensor could also be at fault. Any of these could give the symptoms you describe. You can take several different approaches to the repair. #1 change everything. #2 change one item, wait to see if it is fixed, then change the next. #3 Wait until it is broken enough that it can be pinpointed by a professional.

It is very difficult to find the fault until it actually demonstrates the fault symptom while being tested.

1. Check for a loose or cracked ground wire between the intake and the engine computer. (Is the engine computer you're referencing actually the ECM located on the side of the engine? The only other computer on the car is located under the passenger seat. Which is it?) Additionally, what is the likelihood that the computer under the seat may need to be replaced? I've been told by the folks at the auto parts stores that oftentimes the computer is actually the last thing to go. Whats your take on this?

2. The igniter on top of the engine could also be at fault. (This car is distributorless, does this statement still apply?)

3. The crank angle sensor could also be at fault.(This has been suggested and I am going to investigate the possibility further)

I like your answers and your advice is appreciated.

I am talking about the computer under the seat. I have seen them fail on Nissans, it could be the cause, but not likely the top of the list.

The ignitor may be what you are calling the "ecm on the side of the engine" The ignitor is also call the ignition module. On your car it is a square metal box with 4 bolts to hold it on and a plug in each end.

Sterlingfixer

You are correct, the ignition module that you described is exactly what I call the ECM. I replaced that part twice already so I've ruled it out but a mechanic in the area suggested that it could still be the culprit after I told him I purchased it from AutoZone. He seems to believe that OEM parts are more likely to fail than those from the manufacturer but though I'm no pro mechanic I think that having replaced 2 within 2 years the odds are against this still being the source of the issue. What's your opinion on this?

And my last and final question is, is the crank angle sensor located in an area that is easily accessible on my vehicle. If so, I may change that part myself.

Thanks again for all the assistance!

The ignition module could have failed again. If the first failed in a year, we could expect the second to do the same. Original dealer parts seem to work better and longer than most aftermarket parts. I buy original whenever it is practical.

The crank angle sensor is located at the end of the camshaft, looking a bit like a 1/2 of a distributor. It is over $400 from the dealer.

Thanks Sterlingfixer for all the info. Your assistance has been invaluable and you definitely know your stuff.

You are welcome.

1987 Nissan Pulsar NX Engine Hesitating When driving When cold

My wife purchased this 87 Nissan pulsar NX with the CA16DE engine. Since we've had it, it dies, stalls and generally won't run cold and idles 600 to 800 RPM. Warm it idles 1200 - 1500. I pulled the codes on the ECU and got a 12 and 13. I replaced the thermo senser and that got rid of the 13 I replaced the MAF and could not get rid of the 12. I replaced the ECU and now I have no codes but the problem is not fixed. I've replaced the spark plugs also. The car also didn't stay at a temperature and the thermostat was stuck partially open I replaced that and now the car stays at a consistent temperature. The compression is 15 pounds low in one cylinder put at spec on all the others. I'm stuck on where to look next?

Hello,

Please share the compression results.

Are you saying the idle speed is backwards, idles to slow when cold and to high when hot?

Have you reset the computer after all the work that has been performed?

The results where

Cylinder 1 - 180
Cylinder 2 - 168
Cylinder 3 - 180
Cylinder 4 - 180

Regarding re-setting the computer I've taken off the negative battery cable for several minutes. I do not know of another way of resetting the computer.

Sorry didn't answer all your questions - yes, the idle speed seems backwards. Low when cold and high when warm..

The compression results are fine.

Have you thoroughly checked for vacuum and air leaks. Make sure the egr valve is not sticking open.

Does the engine run fine when warm, with the expection of the high idle... good power/no stalling/ etc?

Regarding vacuum leaks I've traced every hose I can find. I've also tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake manafold and throttle body while it was running thinking if I hit a vacuum leak the engine idle would change or I would see smoke from the exshast. Would if be worth it to buy a vacuum gage and actually find out what the vacuum was? Engine runs fine warm no stalling good power with one slight exception. My wife doesn't even notice it but in third gear going up a hill to my house it seems to accelerate slower in the range of 2500 to 3000 RPM after about 3000 RPM it picks up power. Its so slight my wife doesn't notice it. I've been chaulking it up to the cars power band not to mention the motor is not a power house :-). I talked with a Nissan mechanic at a dealership and he told me to replace the ignition module so I've done that also with no improvement. I really appreciate the help!!! My wife really really love's this little car I've already got more into it than its worth but it makes her happy.

Be sure there are no leaks around the MAF sensor.

Yes, if you found a leak you'd notice a change in idle. As a test, if you are curious, you could pull off a vacuum line (this obviously creats a leak) and give a little spray... this would let you know exactly how your particular engine reacts. Always use extreme caution with flammable products around the engine. I know you already know this, but one mistake...

Buying a vacuum gauge is probably not going to help diagnosis. All they generally do is prove something you already know. Say, if you hear a dead miss or skip, the vacuum gauge will (obviously) confirm this. They are okay to have on hand to test for a restricted exhaust. I'll let you know how to test for a restricted exhaust using a vac gauge if you are curious.

I'll have to check and see if any of your complaints are covered by distributor/crank sensor concerns.

One other thing of interest is the TPS. Has this sensor been tested?

One test you can do to see if the high idle is being caused by the engine management system (computer, sensor) or mechanical (leak, egr)... is to disconnect the idle speed controller when the idle is low (ie cold engine in your case). Then allow the engine to warm. The computer will not be able to adjust airflow by actauting the idle speed motor/controller, so the idle speed will remain the same (or very close to it). Does the idle change? Note- this test will cause a code to be stored in the ecu, should anyways.

BTW, if you need a repair guide to follow... the following link should have one (free) that covers your car-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

I will check for airleaks around the MAF, regarding the TPS I did the testing the shop manual showed which was checking for continuity between pins A and B with the pedel released and continuity between B and C with it depressed. I will try the test you suggested of unplugging the idle speed control and see what happens when I warm up the car. I will reply with the results tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.

Tom

The MAF looked fine as far as air leaks. I disconnected the idle control. It was difficult to keep it running at first but it eventually idled at about 700 - 750 and stayed and never changed even when it warmed up. What should I try next?

Thanks,

tom

Something is apparently telling the ECU the car needs to be idling faster...

The TPS or Temp sensors can cause this.

Did the engine run fine once warm/hot? Was there any lack of power, stumble, hesitation, etc?

When hot the engine runs very well, I've not had it die or even feel like it was going to die.

Now you must find out which sensor is causing the ecu to ramp up the idle. You said you replaced the ecu, maf, and thermo sensor... was the thermo sensor the coolant or air temp sensor?

It was the coolant sensor.

Thanks,

Tom

Is there an air temp (intake air) sensor used on this?

Not listed in the shop manual. Here is whats listed in the manual under the E.C.C.S. system description. To save typing I'm not going to type the full description and no descriptions on ones that seem obvious to me :-) If you want more of a description on some of these let me know and I will give you the complete description

Crank Angle Sensor
Air Flow Meter - This was giving an error code when I started on this and I replaced it no error code currently

Water temperature sensor - This was also giving an error code when I started on this and I replaced it no error code now.

Exhaust gas sensor - I checked this by probing the wire harness at the computer and it was giving .6 volts which is in spec according to the shop manual

Vehicle speed sensor - I've not tested this

Throttle valve switch - I've tested this according to the shop manual the only checks are for throttle depressed and throttle released

Idle Air Adjusting (I.A.A.) Unit - No testing on this as a whole

Auxiliary Air control (A.A.C.) Value - I did do the shop manual tests on this which I believe was power and continutiy

Air regulater - This provides a air by-pass when the engine is cold - I replaced this just cause

Fuel Injector - I've just checked resistence and listened to them - they all sounded the same

Pressure regulater - No testing

Fuel Pump - No testing

Fuel Filter - No testing

Power Transistor - Replaced

Ignition coils - Checked for resistance one failed and it's been replaced (This motor has a coil per spark plug)

Air Injection value (A.I.V.) no testing other than making sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up

EGR value - no testing other than moving it manually and verifiy it had an affect on the engine

P.R.V.R value - listed but no description

Look at the following link and see if you have a air temp sensor?

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] 2305.gif

You may also find information that may be helpful in the repair guide. Copy and Paste into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/13/20/cc/[redacted] 20cc.jsp

That looks like the other version of the motor (e16i) I have the CA16DE for that year, I don't have an air cleaner like that. Mine is basically a plastic pipe that goes from the throttle body to the side of the car and on the side of the car there is a box with the air cleaner in it and that is where the MAF is located also. The air cleaner is small and square. Is it possible the air temp sensor is built into the MAF? I have a break out pretty close to that in my shop manual and it doesn't show an air sensor let me see if I can scan it and put is some where for you. I did notice it had two wires that stuck out into the air flow. On another note my wife filled up the car yesterday and gas poured out all over the ground and leaked while driving for few miles. I am going to be trying to fix this this week-end between all the other things i have to do. I will call the dealer and find out if they have a air temp sensor listed. (I have a parts guy at a dealership we've made pretty good friends with and he's been helpful in answering my dumb questions :-) ) I appreciate you hanging in on this!

I think you may be correct on the air-temp/maf.

Where was the gas pouring out? This is much more of an issue at this point.

It appears to be at the top of the tank, I looked on line and it was recalled for a bad joint at the place the filler attaches to the gas tank. When I called a dealer (who was not helpful and seemed irrated that I called) he said I need to call Nissan on Monday and get my Vin number "re-instated" no idea what that means. But my vin number didn't pull up in his database so he couldn't help me?

Here is the text of the recall

Recall 87V191000: Fuel Inlet Pipe Cracking

The soldered joint where inlet pipe attaches to the fuel tank may be cracked. Fuel may seep through the joint and pose a fire hazard.

Replace fuel tank if there is seepage or crack.

System: Fuel tank

Vehicle description: Passenger cars

Were you at the www.nhtsa.dot.gov site? If you found the information here, this is the site Nissan recommends to check for recalls. I did find a listing of the recall you mentioned but not at the Nissan Site itself.

http://www.nissanusa.com/owning/recall_info/

Here are Nissans contact numbers-

http://www.nissanusa.com/apps/contactus

I'd try the dealer again, giving them the recall information from the NHTSA website. I don't think they'd want to be on record for refusing recall service, in fact ask them:
"For the record, do you want to be on record for refusing recall service in a situation where the danger is so great?" They have contact numbers for an occasion such as this (when they don't have VIN info), if in fact they don't have it.

This seems to be resolved, I remembered the prior owner replaced the fuel pump so I pulled the cover and watched. Gas poared out of the fuel pump cover. I found three totally stripped bolts (they were hand tight) I was able to get a new o ring gasket and new bolts and the leak is resolved.

Good work!

Did you notice any other work that may have been done to the car? It seems you have covered just about everything that controls the idle.

I don't know if the intake manafold was swapped or just some work on that part of the motor. There are tags (pieces of tape) that seem to indicate that someone took it apart, I'm wondering if some of the vacuum lines could be run wrong?

A possibility, try this link if you don't have a vacuum schematic (the underhood schematic is considered the most accurate).

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] 9822.gif

Hey been very busy, Its running good enough now thanks for all your help I will figure out how to close this.

1986 Nissan Pulsar NX Fuel System   

My 1986 Nissan Pulsar NX idles to high when it starts up but comes back down. When driving it, sometimes the idle stays high but will eventualy come back down. Please don't just tell me I need to get it looked at but tell me what part could be bad or what the problem may be. Thanks,

1986 was not a good year for emissions...a lot of hoses!
Check all vacuun lines for dry leaking hoses and replace hoses that are not soft.
Tighten throttle body and intake screws.
Spray intake throttle body in and out with "Air Intake Cleaner"

I have already done everything you stated prior to asking the question. It's only been in the last 3 weeks that this problem has occured.

Sometimes you can get a lot of water in the gas this time of year. Try getting some good injector cleaner through the fuel system,
Are there any codes set or a check engine light occassionally?
Sometimes there are codes with no light.
Ensure that it is not a gas pedal or cable sticking , by trying a start with cable disconected at the throttle body or carb.
Also ensure the 'return spring' is ok.

I have used several cans of carb cleaner and yesterday I took the air cleaner off and started the car. It reved up high and then came down. I watched the throttle cable and it didn't even move. The problem seems to be getting worse. I guess I will try and get the car into the Nissan dealer and let them look at it. I'm sure the cost will scare me but don't know what else to try or do.

Try to get a copy of a Haynes Shop Manual first. They sell for $15-$20 on the 'net and have lots of info. Good luck!

1985 Nissan Pulsar NX Fuel System  When driving When warm 

New owner of an almost classic Nissan Pulsar NX! However, it has just begun to do something very strange. After the car has warmed up (about 3-5 minutes), the idle begins to act erratically. When stopped and idling (no gas), it tends to jump around from 500 to 1300 rpm. Needless to say it often stalls out when the ilde goes too low. I have changed all plugs, cap/rotor, fuel filter. I didn't expect these to fix this, but they are cheap and easy. The odd part is that when the engine is cold, it drives like a charm.
Any ideas where I should look next?

Start by looking for a vacuum leak when the problem is present.

Looks like wife took the car in while I was hoping to find a quick and easier repair. Oh well...

However, they have told her that the problem is likely with the fuel injector. It either needs to be flushed/cleaned or outright replaced. Cleaned is billed at $270, replaced at $450. Nevermind the dollar amounts seem high, does this make sense given the problem I am having? How could a clogged or dirty fuel injector allow the car to run smoothly and with no problems when the car is cold, but suddenly begin misbehaving when it warms up? Am I being sold a bill of goods with this diagnosis?

This is a 1985 Nissan Pulsar, 1.6 Litre engine? Does it have fuel injection or a carburetor?

A fuel injector is an electrical device. Problems can develope with temp change (IE the injector could be shorting when warm/hot due to a change in resistance).

If you do have fuel injection is it TBI (throttle body injection, uses one injector) or MPI (uses four injectors). You said to never mind the price, but I shopped around and Autozone sells a TBI fuel injector for $169.99.

I can't say their diagnosis is wrong, but I'm very skeptical.

Give me the information about your engine so we can proceed.

Thanks for the information. I wish this was a car with a carburator! At least I would better understand my car. I can't promise I gave you the right year (might be off 1 year or so, still too new for me to get that information in my head!), but I know the car has a fuel injection system, and from what I heard from the repair shop, there is a single fuel injector.

What you can do is watch the spray pattern of the injector. Look for a uniform cone shape, along the lines of a consistant fine mist from a shower head. Compare the pattern with engine cold and warm.
It would be nice if you could find out why the repair facility thinks the injector is at fault.
Did they rule out vacuum leaks?
Idle speed motor problem?
Corrupt sensor values?