Nissan Quest

2000 Nissan Quest Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens sometimes No pattern

Hello,
My 2000 Quest has been having off and on problems with the radio light either not coming on at all or being very dim (blacked out) on both sides of the display , brighter in the middle but dim. This does not happen every time and may 'pop' on during driving, going back to normal. The driver side electric window rolls down okay but sticks coming up, similar to having a short. I have to push the button several times to get it to work. Now the check engine light came on (while my husband was driving to the first day of his new job, whew what stress!). First of all, Is the radio and the window connected on some electrical circuit? No other electrical componet seem to have displayed any problems. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Hello, No, I don't believe the radio and power window have any common electrical circuits.
Since the window rolls down okay but has trouble coming back up I would fault the switch. However, before the switch is replaced the connection of the wiring at the switch should be inspected for a tight contact fit.If the window were down and moisture (rain, beverage) got into the switch it may help to remove the switch and blow compressed air through the switch case to dry it out.
The radio problem sounds like a printed circuit problem within the radio face. Is it digital? Does it play sound okay on all features?
The check engine light means your vehicle is not meeting the emissions standards it was designed for. You can have the code read at a local national auto parts chain store, usually at no charge. (Call ahead to see if they provide this service.) It can be as simple as the gas cap was not tight enough after a refuel, or they can advise what the code means. They will not clear the code for liability issue reasons, but you'll know more about the cause and can plan accordingly.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Thanks for the quick response! My husband called and said that he made it to work with no major problems, just the flashing light! Now for the rest..
I went on to a website, automotive forum, and there seem to be a few Quests whose radio/clock display goes completely blank. I am not sure if the radio continues to play or not. They recommend some sort of resoldered joints, see www.automotiveforums.com/t226166.html, I didn't really know if that was my problem or not since my radio/cd player works fine other than the display problem. Sometimes when I start the engine, the light display is fine other times it is not on at all or darkened on the sides and somewhat visible in the middle. During a trip, it will suddenly light up and remain that way. However, I noticed that it is happening more often and more frequently. Does that make any sense to you? As for the window, I guess it could be something sticky got down in there, although I am not aware of anything, but I do have a 6 year old boy who could have done something. I did not think of that because the radio problem started happening about the same time as the window. Would fixing it be a dealership repair or can it be done by the owner with instructions? Now for the blinking engine light, I went on-line for possible causes of that. I saw that the gas cap could be loose and I did fill up the tank the other day and the car has not been driven much since then, so it is possible that it could be loose. However, I see that a blinking light can be a more serious problem and Nissan suggests that the vehicle not be driven more than 45 mph until it is diagnosed so that damage does not occur. The van is located now about 50 miles away in a parking garage at my husbands work. He has to get the vehicle home somehow so that we can get it fixed. How do you feel about driving it and at what mph and for how long? Nissan's owners manual says that it does not need to be towed but I am sure that they don't expect someone to drive that far on a interstate where the speed limit is 65 mph. Do you have thoughts on that? Have you worked on Nissan Quests where this has happened? If so, have there been any major problems, surprises or misdiagnosis (no offense)? Thanks so much! :o)

Ok for first you will probably come out cheaper having a new radio installed by a reputable store like best buy or circuit city
then to have your radio pulled out and repaired
as for the window repair if it is an adjustment or a switch or even a motor that can be done with instructions
last of all the check engine light is a warning that there is a problem you should drive the car to the nearest shop and have a diagnosis done on it this test will tell you just how serious or trivial the problem is
just make sure you check the fluid levels before you take it anywhere
driving it now should not be of a great concern
I hope this helps

We took the Quest in to have diagnostic code ran. It revealed no codes at all. What could this mean? As for the radio, I drove the van last night and everthing worked fine. This is all very frustrating. We have been seriously looking for a new vehicle and wanted to trade the Quest in. Now all these problems? I want to fix them cheaply or disclose to dealer and then we wont get as much for trade in and the van is in great condition in every other way. Thanks.

if the check engine light is on there has to be a code are you sure you took it to a reputable service shop?
A nissan dealer will find a code

2000 Nissan Quest All Part Groups   

My 2000 Quest will randomly act as though it has run out of fuel while I am driving. Its as though the gas pedal just stops working. I have to pull to the side, put it in park and then rev the engine before driving off again. I had the distributor replaced, didn't help, checked the fuel system and its fine, diagnostics is unable to detect anything. The strangest thing is that it happens in the same places. Almost always its the same spot in the Interstate or road and usually in the afternoon. It does happen more often when its hot outside but it has also happened in the colder months. I can go months without it happening and then it will happen 2-3 times within a week or two. I believe going from slow to fast has something to do with it as does elevation. I have spent hundreds of dollars but the mechanics are all stumped. Please help.

What have they replaced besides the distributor, particularly which sensors? I'll assume they replaced the fuel filter.

When you have to rev the engine to keep it running, do you get any black smoke from the exhaust and/or a strong odor of gasloline?

Does the check engine (MIL) come on at anytime while the engine is running?

I was told the fuel system was fine, that was not the problem so nothing was replaced other than the distributor. I don't recall any mention of sensors. I never smelled gas or saw any smoke. There would be a thumping sound when I mashed the gas pedal trying to get it to accelerate again. It came from the rear I believe. Also, I'm not sure if this is related, but the speedometer doesn't work. It was shaky for awhile, worked randomly, now it almost never works except first thing in the AM. The speedo has never been working when the gas pedal fails and I lose speed. Thanks for helping!

Oh, and no, the check engine light does not come on when this happens. No lights come on and everything else continues to work.

Does the transmission shift okay? Usually if the speedometer doesn't work the check engine light will turn on. Does the check engine light come on when you first turn the key on, as it normally does?

Did they have the vehicle when it was acting up? This is the only way to determine if fuel pressure okay. It is known you have good fuel pressure when it runs okay, but this has to be monitored when the problem is present also.

The transission seems to shift OK although it seems to maybe hesitate before shifting once in awhile. The check engine light does not come on when the speedometer doesn't work. I only had the speedometer checked one time and they insisted there was nothing wrong with it. Of course, it worked fine for them at that time but since then I've been more focused on the acceleration issue than the speedometer. In order for a mechanic to experience the loss of acceleration, he would have to drive it every day for weeks. You never know when it will happen. I haven't had it happen now in the past three weeks but it will eventually happen again. I've had the van for only 2 years and its probably happened about 12 times. Thanks for your help!

1998 Nissan Quest Chassis / Suspension & Steering Sticking Happens sometimes No pattern

My steering on my Quest seems to be sticking. My fluid seems to be fine. What do I look for next. Thanks!

Your vehicle should be equiped with rack and pinion steering.There are several factors that could come into play here.You say it happens intermitantly.My first look would be at the column itself.Do the turn signals fuction properly?If equiped with an airbag,do you get an airbag light coming on when this happens?Next check the union between the column shaft and rack.Most are solid unions but some vehicles have a rubber collar joining them that fails.If all these points are good,then the next look would be at the rack itself or possible tie rod,ball joint damage.If a tie rod or ball joint has wear,this is a classic symptom.If you want to try and check these on your own,with the steerng wheel in the locked position and brake set,raise the front end.Take the top and lower portion of the tire and pull in and out.There should be little to no movement when doing so.If there is,you most likely have a ball joint and quite possibily a wheel bearing problem.Now do the same thing with your hands at the 9o'clock 3o'clock position.If you have any excessive movement here,you most likely have tie rod,rack problems.Its a good idea to have a helper when doing this so you or the helper can observe where movment is coming from.
Good Luck,
Paul

1998 Nissan Quest Ignition System   

Has ignition misfire or timing problem at mid-accelleration.Has code 1320 ignition signal code.Coil has 12 volts & harness & resistor checks out okay.Has new coil,cap,rotor & wires.Replaced power transistor & still has same problem & code. Pump press.is good & has good & even compresssion readings.

Is this the only trouble code you are getting? You have checked all the harness's?

1997 Nissan Quest Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

The lights for the left side of the instrument cluster have burned out as well as the lights for the climate control panel (a/c, vent, etc.). The same thing happened on a 1983 Quest that I had and the dealer charged me 400 to replace them. Pep Boys says it will cost 200 to replace these. Surely they can't be that hard to replace. Any suggestions on how to get to them?

While it may not be difficult, even minor mistakes can be costly. Therefore it's necessary to have complete instructions. These instructions are available in the factory repair manual (expensive but valuable) or online for a $25 subscription from alldata.com/ This site was designed for independent shops, but now offers subscriptions to individuals. If you wish to perform your own repairs, this site will easily pay for itself.
If generic instructions will suffice, this is (copy and pasted) from an internet group I participate in:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(You may want to write down your radio programming; that will go away
as well as the clock setting.)
2. Block the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. (Allows the gear
selector to be moved)
(as opposed to the LOCK position where the key can be removed)
4. Shift the selector lever to first gear.
5. Tilt the steering wheel to the lowest position. (if equipped)
6. Remove the two cluster bezel screws. (under the top edge, #2 Phillips
head)
7. Remove the cluster bezel enough to access the switch electrical
connectors.
Note: The bezel is held in by the two phillips head screws going
straight up on the top; on the bottom are two tapered plastic pins
facing forward that snap into the car frame. The various electrical
connectors are removed by pressing release buttons or tabs; usually on
the bottom side of the connector.....While the connectors are all unique
to the switch they go to, it will ease assembly later if you write
something on each (a number or the function) or put a piece of masking
tape on the wires with a switch name. The switches all pop out of the
bezel by grasping them with fingers and gently pulling and must all be
disconnected to get the bezel clear. There is a gap where the switches
meet the bezel; grasp here with fingers and pull. They come out the
front.
8. Disconnect the rear window wiper/washer switch assembly electrical
connector.
9. Disconnect the rear window defroster switch assembly electrical
connector.
10. Disconnect the hazard ( 4way flasher) switch electrical connector.
11. Disconnect the power E-AT switch assembly electrical connector.
12. Disconnect the speed control on/off switch electrical connector.
13. (electronic cluster) Disconnect the autolamp/instrument panel
assembly
electrical connector.
13. (analog cluster) Disconnect the instrument panel dimmer switch
electrical connector
14. Disconnect the headlamp switch electrical connector.
15. Disconnect the fuel computer control panel electrical connector.
(electronic cluster)
16. Remove the instrument cluster bezel with the switches attached.
(and the fuel computer control panel) (for the electronic cluster)
17. Remove the four instrument cluster screws. (#2 phillips head again;
be careful not to drop them, could be a miserable retrieval)
18. Remove the PRNDL indicator from the instrument cluster.
19. Disconnect the three instrument cluster electrical connectors.
(If completely removing the cluster)
20. Remove the instrument cluster.

Then replace the bulbs:

1. Turn the desired warning / indicator lamp counterclockwise and remove
it
from the electronic instrument cluster.
2. Remove the bulb from the socket. Black Carrier = area lighting,
Beige small carrier = warning lights

Good luck

1996 Nissan Quest Engine   

Running really rough. Started running rough only while idling at stop lights. Now all the time and check engine light came on. Vehicle has been regularly serviced, keeping all fluids clean and full. Has about 120,000 miles. Just changed oil/filter a month ago (less than 1000 miles) and

Hello, Have you inspected the spark plugs and wires for condition? What are the diagnostic codes that have been set?

Spark plugs last about 100K miles if they are the platinum type. About 30K miles if not platinum spark plugs.

Changing spark plugs on this engine is labor intensive as the firewall side plugs are best accessed by removing the intake plenum.

Have the fuel injectors been power flushed?

Roger

Spark plugs and all other maintenance has been per suggested intervals in manual. My service records are at home, so can't verify, but am 99% sure plugs and wires have been changed at recommended intervals.

Have never flushed injectors.

Perhaps I should have said that the car shakes a lot. Used to be just at stop lights, etc. Now all the time and when it started all the time, is when the check engine light came on. Daughter, who drives it the most, says there is a smell also. wondering about the exhaust manifold.

Best place to begin is to investigate the code/codes that have turned the check engine light on.

Some of the national chain auto parts stores will read the codes for you at no charge. Call ahead and verify they provide this service at no charge. When the codes are read write them down. The parts store employee will likely not erase/clear the codes and that is okay.

Based on the code info we can map a plan.

Roger

OK... will check around... also see a way to make a jumper and get the codes if I can't find a NAPA or Autozone that will read the codes.

Hope you find a place that will read the codes for you. The business of turning the mode screw on the side of the ECM gets old quick. The plug-in OBD II code reader is really sweet.

Roger

I invested in an Innova Equus 3030 ODB II reader. With 3 old cars, I'm sure it will be useful.

I finally got to drive the car. It shakes as you come to a stop, or start from a stop. Power hesitation when under load (quick accel., hill, etc.) and shaking when under load -- turning A/C on or off makes a difference in the severity of the shaking.

At one point the Check Engine Light began to flash. I pulled over, turned the engine off and hooked up the OBD II reader.

It kicked out two codes in this order: P0306 and P0325. The OBD II reader identifies this as the bad sort of misfire (I suppose that means raw fuel getting into the catalytic converter).

Then I disconnected the reader and started the car up again and drove 4 blocks home. The Check Engine Light was on, but no longer flashing.

I would love to pull the #6 plug and look at it, but seems almost impossible to do on this engine without some sort of special tool or removing some other engine parts -- I am 55 and used to be able to do most of my own car/engine repair before they became so highly computerized. I am gunshy with these newer engines as it seems likely that doing the wrong thing could ruin a costly computerized component.

Visual inspection reveals nothing in the engine compartment. I used to be able to ID every part (including EGR), but can't on this engine.

Some background: have owned this van since new. 123,000 miles on it.

@ 47,000 miles in 8/22/00 -- check engine light came on. Shop reset (P0733) and everything seemed OK for awhile.

@ 47,700 miles in 9/26/00 -- check engine light came on again. Shop found a TSB and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor.

@ 51,100 miles in 4/11/01 -- Had Fuel Tank Vent hose replaced per recall. At the same time, had warped exhaust manifold and three broken studs. Replaced the manifold, all gaskets and studs, etc.

@ 62,400 miles in 7/15/02 -- Check Engine Light came on. Replaced cracked EGR hose.

@ 75,881 miles in 1/30/04 -- Replaced 3 engine drive belts and A/C manifold line.

@ 91,312 miles in 6/23/05 -- 90K service, plus replaced tightened timing belt and replaced the water pump, as well as the front outer CV boots.

@ 98,672 miles in 7/7/06 -- replaced timing belt, serviced fuel injectors and induction serviced. Replaced coolant bypass hose under throttle leak. And replace water pump again. Also installed new thermostat.

@100,862 miles in 10/19/06 -- replaced exhaust manifold again (and again, 3 broken studs, manifold warped)... replaced everything again.

@ 106,644 miles in 6/9/07 -- Replaced both bottom motor mounts, and replaced oil sending unit/oil switch.

@ 120,718 miles in 3/30/09 -- took in for 120,000 service. Aside from the normal 120K service stuff, also replaced the valve cover and gasket that was leaking. Also found a very small leak at the oil pan -- they think, I've never seen any oil on the ground and the oil level doesn't even drop 1/4 of a quart between oil changes, which I have done every 5,000 miles. I declined to replace the oil pan gasket as it was ridiculously expensive and didn't seem to be leaking much oil, period. Also replaced the fuel filter and 4 water hoses around plenum (hoses soft and seeping?).

Aside from all of the above, always changed the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. Also had all the recommended service done at 30K, 60K, 90K and 120K miles.

I think that's about all of the information I have at this point.

You are getting a break here. Is your van FWD? The cylinders on the engine bank closest to the radiator are numbered 2-4-6 with cylinder #6 being closest to the left front fender.

That one should be an easy one to check for a cracked plug, carbon tracking down the side of the plug, or a torn boot on the plug wire end. Even just a pin hole in the boot is a problem.

What do you find there?

Roger

Sure enough the #6 plug wire is bad... plugs all look good... so thinking the #6 misfire causing the knock sensor code...

Anyway, replacing all plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and will see if that does the trick.

Thanks for your help. If you don't hear from me again, it's because the fix worked.

Great, I too believe the knock sensor code was caused by the misfire.

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1996 Nissan Quest Ignition System   

van stalls then no sparks I replaced the plusa, rotor, cap, wires, coil, ignition module, so stalls, also I replaced the throttle and egr valve and saw carbon build up where egr valve sits after I cleaned out the deposits. the vehicle still stalls. 96 nissan quest, 294,900 miles Darryl

Hi Darryl,
We have seen a lot of problems on the Quest with the crank angle sensor. This is built in as part of the distributor and will act intermittently like you describe.

Ok then I will go ahead and get a new distriutor and let you know how things work out,

Darryl

Let me know,
Thanks

Ok I replaced the distributor adfter carefully installing it exactly as old was with no luck starter turns and nothing, I double checked to see if I have securely connected the connector under the distributor itself and it was, I checked the ignition switch fuse connector to igntion coil, even removed the resistor and checked the ohms which was 2.20 ohm but heres the thing I removed the wire spark plug wire from cap and placed it 1/4 inch from air intake and had a firend turn ignition and no spark, I'm really starting to suspect maybe the ecm(eccs) is faulty or a bad wire from the ecm?

Does the check engine light come on at the time there is no spark. (It should). If not, suspect ECM, or power or ground to ECM.

If it lights, lets find out exactly what is missing. Check the brown wire into the coil for power. Should be 12V in start or run.

If Ok, go to the ignition module, backprobe blue wire with a test light and check for spark from the coil as you tap the light to 12v. You should get spark from the coil. If not, see if the test light lights. If it lights, disconnect the computer, see if it sparks now. If not, check for power on the green wire at the ignition module and ground on the black/red. If OK, suspect a bad module or coil. Write me back with results.
Dale

with ignition in on position I do see engine light, but will check all other test tomorrow

Does it never have spark? Or does it start and then shut off with no spark?

It does starts then as it begins to warm up it stalls if you try to restart no spark but right now I'm charging my battery and will do the suggested tests on coil and wire harness

Ok I got 12volts(11.97) on brown wire to coil and no volts(0.03) on blue wire to ignition module, now is there a easier way to disconnect ecm like a fuse or something than to physical teardown the govebox and remove all wire harness to computer???

Use a test light for this test. Test it when the malfunction is present, test with the key on. At the ignition module, backprobe blue wire with a test light and check for spark from the coil as you tap the light to 12v. You should get spark from the coil. If not, see if the test light lights. If it lights, disconnect the computer, see if it sparks now. If not, check for power on the green wire at the ignition module and ground on the black/red. If OK, suspect a bad module or coil.

The only place to disconnect this wire is at the computer itself. It is a big 88 pin connector. (We may be doing more tests here, depending what we find.)

ok let me run out and get a test light for this test also two things I observed first as the ignition goes back from run to on I got a single spark, and when I first approach the vehicle I cranked oit just for the hell of it it started as I throttled it and stall and could not get spark after that, thus having to charge battery.

It seems to run for a bit, then the spark quits. That helps make the problem easy to find. Just make sure you do the tests when it is failing.

Ok using a test light I backprobe the blue wire on ignition module got no light or spark, I then disconnected the 88 pin connector on computer no spark no light no light when probing the green wire and black/red.

Great,
Did you backprobe the Blue wire with the key on and the computer disconnected?? If no spark and assuming all your test light connections were good, your problem is not in the computer, but in the coil, module or related wiring.

There IS supposed to be power on the green wire and ground on the Black/red. This means with your test light clipped to ground, it should light on the Green wire. Clipped to power, it should light on the black/red wire. If more convenient, you can disconnect the module to test the green and the B/R wires.

ok I misunderstood your last instruct my apoloziges I reread the instruct regarding key on backpprobe the blue wire on module, and tap the 12v now I get, i did that an half hour age and yes I did get great sparks!!!

Great, we now know that the ignition module, coil and related wiring are fine!
Next, with the computer reconnected, watch the tachometer while you crank the engine. Does it move at all, or stay on 0 RPM?
When the van does start, is the check engine light on or off?

Do you have a digital voltmeter? The next test will require one.

Ok computer to reconnected, the rpm does not moves when I crank it, the check engine light ios on, and yes I have a digital meter

Excellent! At this point we will do a few more observation tests.
The Check Engine light should be off with the key off. It should be on with the key on, engine off. It should go off while cranking the engine. It should remain off if/when the engine starts.
It will simplify our troubleshooting if you able to have the computer scanned for codes. Are you able to borrow a scanner, or have someone scan it for you?

yes to check engine light off when key is off and yes to check engine light on when key on but we are at no spark stage can't get spark to see if check engine light off when started. will go to a auto repair shop to see if I can borrow one( hand scan tool )

Does the check engine light go off while you crank it?

hate to sound impatient I wnet ahead and ahead from used part dealer a ecm and hoping that resolve issue time was running out for me as regards to work, I did notice as I pull out old one theres an relay mounted on top of it but was wondering would the ecm relay cause no spark too just fishing, but I do appreciate your time and effort I really dis learn alot more about the van can I let you know the result after tomorrow if the ecm resolve it?

Darryl

No problem.

Does the check engine light turn off as you crank the engine?

Dale

no stays on

That means either the distributor is not sending the RPM signal, the computer is not receiving it or the computer is interpreting it.

Now we will check the power and ground to the distributor. Unplug the 4-wire connector to the distributor. With a test light make sure there is power on the black/white wire with the key on. Make sure the black wire lights the test light when it is clipped to the battery+.

the computer was interupting it seems just replaced it crankedf it , it s6tart and stays on now, idles very rough since i was never able to adjust new distributor lot of black smoke came of exhaust that clear after a minute exhuast smell bad like sulfur i think it burning too rich rpm dance from 1,000 to 500 never constant i got the distributor adjusted best with least rough idle as possible, i know should be done timing gun , i don't have one if rev engine to 2,000 rpm is smooth but as it settles very rough , i know this is another issue shoulde i pay first what?

I am very glad the van is running!. I always like to be 100% sure before changing computers and other parts.

If the van was running fine before it stalled, look at the vacuum hoses and throttle body to make sure nothing was missed, pinched or disconnected when doing that work.

It does seem like this is a different problem, so it would be fine to pay now and open a new request if you feel good about it.

ok i will thanks

Good news I had the distributor installed wrong and was causing the stumbling idling, had to take it to the mechanic who only charge $50 to correct problem now the van runs great!!!

Thank you Dale for all your help,

Darryl

Very good! I like when they are fixed!

Thanks again for all your attention on this I do mean it and it has been a quest to fix this nissan Quest, lol.

Darryl

Have a happy New Year!

If you are satisfied that the van is fixed, you can click on the button that says so.

Thanks!

1995 Nissan Quest Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

Battery is fully charged.All accessories work, but the engine won't start. There were no problems last six months.One day I could not start it. The engine won't turn or make any noise. I tried a couple of days later, it started like there was nothing wrong.
I turned the engine off and tried to start five minutes later-nothing happened. It seems to start once every 24 hours. It is wierd. What do you think it is? Thanks

Most likely problem is a bad starter. possibilites are bad ignition switch, bad neutral safety switch or a bad or loose wire somewhere. 90% the starter.

what's the most economical way to get it tested?

You can remove it and have many auto parts places can test it. However, it can be difficult to test off the car. I try to test them on the car with a test light, checking both the power, ground and signal at the time when the problem occurs.

do you have a security light on or flashing when this happens

did you find the problem

1995 Nissan Quest Ignition System   

The key would not turn off my 1995 Quest last night, I have located the problem.. the arm going from the key box to the ignition switch appears to be broken. How do I get to this part to remove it. Also what is this part called, it is made of plastic. My dealer has not been helpful so far. Thank you.

The Ignition Switch Actuator Arm is a difficult part to replace. Remove (lower) the column from dash.Remove the covers and the multiswitc to access the arm.The arm might not be a serviceable part.See if it is avail first, you might have to pickup a 2nd hand one from the autowrecker.

Do I need to remove the steering column to get to the Acutator arm? and how do I disconnect the Air bag system to remove the steering column... thanks.

The battery should be first disconnected, The wheel should not have to come off, (tats the older cars) just the covers around the column.

I had taken the covers off, but the actuator arm is inside the steering column. Is there a way to replace the arm without taking apart the steering column?

No, and it is not easy to dismantle a column especially if it is a tilt column.

It is a tilt column, What do I need to know in order to do this repair?

Get a factory service manual.It has good exploded diagrams and also indicates the special tools required.
It is not an easy job.You might consider a used replacement column.

1994 Nissan Quest Drive Train / Driveline Smelling When idling When cold

Operating the heater produces stifling fuel smell inside and outside of van when idling, but only when car is cold. If you wait for car to heat up well, operating heater does not produce fuel smell. Fuel smell not present any other time but when operating heater. Auto repair shop worked on car three separate times and had car for three weeks total. Said the problem was leaking fuel injector seals so those were replaced. That was at the end of last winter so didn't use heater much. Now, a year later, smell has returned when operating heater. Any ideas?

Fuel smells when the car is cold usually come from the injector area. Likely leaking injectors, o-rings, hose fittings, etc. There may be something new that developed since they worked on it. (These engines do have frequent injector problems.)
Dale

1993 Nissan Quest Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving When warm 

As I drive my Quest, the heat gauge goes up to hot, but the top of the radiator and hoses are cool. When I stop the Quest to cool it off, and drive again, the gauge works fine and there is plenty of heat. Also, the heater will blow warm air when the heater is turned off and even when the heater/AC temperature dial is on cold. There is plenty of coolant in the system. Help!

"Hi,
If your thermostat is sticking it can cause this type of problem. If so, the heater will blow hot while the problem is occurring.
If the heater blows cool, but the guage is hot, then most likely you have air locking the sytem. This vehicle can be difficult to get the air out. Park the van with the front wheels 2-3 feet higher than the rear wheels, run the engine with the rdiator cap off and the heater on, fill the radiator as needed. Loosen the bleed screw on top of the intake manifold.(hard to reach, don't drop the screw) When no more air comes out, you should be ready to run again unless you have a blown head gasket.
Dale

If your thermostat is sticking it can cause this type of problem. If so, the heater will blow hot while the problem is occurring.
If the heater blows cool, but the guage is hot, then most likely you have air locking the sytem. This vehicle can be difficult to get the air out. Park the van with the front wheels 2-3 feet higher than the rear wheels, run the engine with the rdiator cap off and the heater on, fill the radiator as needed. Loosen the bleed screw on top of the intake manifold.(hard to reach, don't drop the screw) When no more air comes out, you should be ready to run again unless you have a blown head gasket.

Did you have any success with getting the engine properly heating and cooling? Let me know. AL