Nissan Stanza

1992 Nissan Stanza Electrical / Lighting Systems   Always

The high beams don't work, the dash lights don't work and the tail lights don't work. A lot of rough dirt roads. Possible vibration problem Thanks!!

replace the headlight switch

Where do I locate the headlight switch?

it is where you turn your headlights on. I believe that yours is on a stalk next to the steering wheel..in which case the switch would be below the plastic steering column covers as part of a multi function switch..

How do I get to it, and how hard is it to change?

most of the older Nissans require removal of the steering wheel along with removing the plastic covers from steering column (between steering wheel and dash). then it is as simple as a couple screws and disconnecting about 3 electrical harnesses in the same area. A good source of information (inexpensive) would be a Haynes Repair Manualavailable from your local auto parts store. It is not a hard job if you are mechanically inclined.

you asked a question in this forum about your Nissan... were you satisfied with the answer, You were given all the info you asked for

1992 Nissan Stanza Engine Won't Start  

My sons 1992 Stanza died this morning. 160K miles might point to the auto graveyard, but finances say keep it running. Our analysis points to a broken timing chain.

We have experience doing some auto repair, but I thought I'd check to see what I'm gettin into. The last timing work I did was replacing a belt on an early Honda Civic.

Here's the big question ... will I need to pull the engin to do the chain replace, or is there a trick to avoid this?

I know the chain and gaskets should cost about $100. How much should I expect to pay if I sent it to a shop?

Thanks for any help or advice. Looking forward to your email reply.

Ed

Yes this can be done in the car. You may have to remove some components to get to the timing cover. To have this done in a shop will most likely cost about 500.00. Let me know what engine the car has and maybe I can give you more specific details. Al

Al -

Thanks for the quick response. I'm having the car towed back here tomorrow, and will give you the specific engine information as soon as I can get it. I feel a little better knowing I'll be able to do it in the car - and not remove the engine or oil pan.

Ed

The first thing we need to verify if the engine is an "interference" engine or not. If it is then there is a great chance of bent valves or even damaged pistons. Once we know what engine we can go from there. AL

OK. I have the information about the engine.

1992 Nissan Stanza four door - Not the van

Printed on the top of the valve cover is "2400 12 Valve"

The Chilton's Manual refers to this as the "KA24E" engine.

I've looked at the step by step in Chiltons. Basically, it tells me to drain the oil, remove the right front tire, remove the oil pan and all the accessories. The only thing I'm worried about her is purging the A/C system. I'd like to try and move the compressor out of the way before I purge and remove it. Advice?

Next, the book recommends removing the valve cover and the top fasteners on the timing cover. Then lower the right front side (by the tire) of the engine and remove the timing cover.

Anything your experience can add would be appreciated.

I'm starting the project tomorrow, Sunday, morning.

Thanks

Ed

I recommend no purging the ac system. You should be able to manuver the compressor out of the way. Jack up the car and put the car on a jackstand, remove the tire and place the jack under the oil pan to support the engine .. i believe that you will have to remove the engine support in front of the engine. I will be online tomorrow if you run into problems. AL

In your earlier reply you talked about an interference engine. Does this one fall into that category?

I was not able to confirm this... so the assumtion has to it is not. Crazy way to do business but that is the way the book shows it. A way to make sure things all seem ok is once the timing chain is in place. slowly rotate the engine and watch the valve rockersto see if they all have about he same travel. let me know. AL

I believe it is NOT an interference engine.

The project is going well. Everything has been removed or disconnected. The chain was definately broken.

Here's a question. The book says to remove the oil pan. It doesnt look like it needs to be removed, just to remove the timing chain cover. And, there is an exhaust pipe directly under the oil pan (the book says nothing about disconnecting the exhaust).

What to do?

If removing the oil pan is being done to make sute any broken parts (from the chain or tensioner) are retrieved, then I can probably break the exhaust at the donut gasket. I'd like to see if I can remove and replace the timing cover without removing the oil pan. Opinions?

Ed

That is exactly why they recommend removing the oil pan. This is an opportunity to clean the oil screen, wipe out the oil pan and i strongly recommend placing a speaker magnet into the oil pan. It will really suprize you how much metal it will absorb in time. Looks like this is going well for you. Congrats and let me know if you have any problems. AL

Well, I'm stuck. I can't get the oil pan off without removing some of the exhaust, the cross member, and a bracket to the auto transmission. And - more importantly - the timing cover is not coming out easily. It has moved about an 1/8 of an inch.

Are there any bolts or tabs that we'll get access to if the oil pan is removed - or could this just be dried sealant holding the cover in place.

Ed

there might be 2 or 3 bolts from the oil pan to the bottom of the timing cover that are interfering. Also the downpipe removal is not very difficult and will allow you the room you need under the engine. Are you working on the ground or on a lift?? AL

It's all apart. We never could get the oil pan completely removed, but we were able to drop it enough to flush out a lot of junk.

I think the key to getting the timing cover was the oil pickup/screen. Believe it or not, it was bolted to the timing cover.

Tomorrow we go for parts, and will be putting it back together in the eves - as weather permits. Our goal is to have it on the road by the end of the day next Sunday.

You asked about how we are working ... it's on the ground with the front end on jack stands.

Ed

I have been there before.. talk about a hurt back.. my sympathy... Looks like your on the right track. Let me know if i can be any other assistance. AL

Good news and bad news.

Good news is the car is back together. The timing parts went in with no problem. The engine started and runs fine. The bad news is three is an oil leak from the drivers end of the pan.

we had to drop the exhaust system. Easiest way was to remove it from the exhaust manifold. That worked fine. We also had to lower the bar that runs front to back and supports the engine and transmission. The four end bolts came out fine, but one in the middle proved too stubborn. We ended up leaving that bolt in, and lowing the support beam as much as we could.

Unfortunately, that meant we couldn't fully remove the oil pan. I believe the cork gasket was not fully seated when we bolted the pan back in place. The location of the leak corresponds to the end of the oil pan that was most difficult to seal.

The other thing we screwed up was the pair of bolts that hold the rear end of the support bar in place. I thnks the best thing to do is try and get replacements for them, and the one in the center of the same part.

Can you tell me the name of the support I'm talking about. I think that's important for me to know if I'm going to order the bolts.

Thanks for all your continued help.

Ed

You were on the right track. Go to the dealership and tell them about the fasteners for the engine support. They will know exactly what u are looking for. I dont recommend going to the hardward store for these nut/bolts. AL
PS. Have you decided not to be a mechanic when u grow up yet? Just messing. AL

1992 Nissan Stanza Engine Malfunction Happens always Always

car starts missing at 2400 RPMS

You need to check for diagnostic codes in the ECU (computer). Use the following link for a repair guide that'll contain instructions-



http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Let me know what you find for trouble codes.

1992 Nissan Stanza Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When driving Always

want to replace slipping automatic transmission there are two types for this model 1992 nissan stanza xe how can i determine which trans i have so i can get from junk yard. I do not have car mannual

I see the transmission comes with locking and non locking differentials.

Use the following link which contains a free online repair manual for your car. It'll show you where the transmission identification plate is. The auto recycler will use the numbers to match up your transmission. The online manual should be very helpful for installing the transmsission.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1990 Nissan Stanza Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always

Car will not go any faster than 35mph in drive. It has over 200,000 miles on it and has not had any previous problems. All other gears are working fine. Was being driven by a teenager when problem occured.

Couple of things come to mind...#1: a fuel problem, have you ever changed the fuel filter the "sock" filter on the fuel pump in the gas tank could be plugged with rust etc. #2 The catalytic convertor could be plugged #3 Is the car running on ALL cylinders? #4 could there be a pin hole leak in the fuel line somewhere causing low fuel pressure. #5 has the timing belt jumped a tooth? Has it ever been changed?
Good luck,hope this helps out.

The car is running fine with no apparent fuel issues. I just double checked on the speed it will do in drive which turns out to be no faster than 20 mph. It will do 40 in 2nd gear and has no problems at all when in reverse. We were assuming that the transmission was at fault and were wondering whether this was an easy fix or if it was major.

Ok, next thing to think about, I am assuming this is an automatic transmission? Have you checked your transmission fluid level? Is it nice and bright red in colour? Or is it dark and smells sort of burnt. If dark and burnt smelling, I would pretty much guess as well that it is transmission related and as far as easy fixes, probably not, it probably needs to be overhauled. Get a couple of opinions from qualified transmission specialists. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help with an easier/cheaper fix.

1990 Nissan Stanza Ignition System Won't Start When stopped Always

The car will only start if its being pushed and then jump started. Once running, its fine until it needs to be started again. Using battery cables or a new battery doesn't help. How do I go about checking to see if its the starter or the ignition switch? How do I test these two?

With what you have told us it sounds like your starter or solenoid has failed. The good part is that when you purchase a new or rebuilt starter the solenoid is attached. To replace the solenoid only will possibly fix your problem but you will not get any warranty or the abilty to return the item if this is not the problem. So my advice is replace the starter with one that comes with a lifetime replacement warranty (spend the money once!). While you have the starter down check the condition of the wires that connect to the starter for cleanliness. And finally do this job safely. If you need more information, just ask. Good Luck. AL

1990 Nissan Stanza Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When repairing 

I've just replaced the steering rack in my '90 Nissan Stanza. After getting everthing back together, I realized that when the wheels are pointing straight ahead, the steering wheel is turned 180 degrees to the right (approx. 1/2 turn). It seems I need to disconnect the universal joint that connects the steering column to the rack (again). Can this be done without unbolting / loosening the rack again, or will I need to drop the rack? Any tips for getting the joint clamp loosened up to pull it off -- its tough! Of course, I'm trying to avoid unbolting the whole rack again!

Hello, You should be able to do this without unbolting the rack. It may help to loosen the rear mount bolts for the engine cradle and lower it (with a jack supporting the cradle) slightly for access to disconnect the steering shaft coupler.

Does your rack mount to the cradle or the firewall?

Can you disconnect the shaft coupler inside the car and effect the same result?

Please advise,

Roger

The rack is bolted to the frame/firewall -- bolt heads point straight towards the engine. Moving the engine shouldn't be necessary. There's a universal joint at the rack (pinion), and of course one further up inside the steering column (it has a tilt steering wheel). All I'm looking to do is un-couple the joint at the rack, move the steering wheel, and bolt everything back together. But the joint won't move on the knurled fitting - you can't slide it up easily -- assuming you can slide it up enough to get it loose. It's a "clam-shell" type of clamp, the the bolt to tighten pulls it together. I'm looking for a easy way to spread the clam-shell back out, and then get it off of the rack pinion to reposition it -- all without unbolting the rack again, or destroying the univeral joint!

With the retaining bolt removed I have had success using a wedge shaped pry bar or even a large screwdriver tapped into the slot to open the clamp and allow the u-joint to slide off. I don't get too rough, just use the wedge to spread the clamp slightly.

Do you have the benefit of a lift to raise the car so the left front wheel can be removed for access room?

Have you considered disconnecting the tie rod ends from the knuckles, rotating the steering as needed and then reconnecting/readjusting the tie rod ends? This is a possibility because you'll need to set the toe-in adjustment anyway.

Roger

1990 Nissan Stanza Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

I just purchased a 1990 Stanza gxe, the engine is a 2.4 litre 4 cylinder, KA24e (I think) It has 306,000 Km on it. The problem is the instrument cluster doesn't light up,(including the light around the AT shifter D,R,N.etc)the speedometer doesn't work, there is a loud rattling noise in the rear left wheel, and strong fuel smell when I accelerate. I know you get what you pay for, but I really see allot of potential for this car.
Please Help!

The light issue could be in a fuse.The fuel smell could be from a fuel line leak.The rattle could be from a suspension component.A little more detailed information as to these and I'll try to help you thru.

1990 Nissan Stanza Ignition System   

1990 Nissan Stanza - replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil. In neurtal/park, runs well up to 2900rpm, then misses terribly and fuel smell from exhaust. Very fine line in rpm between running well and not. Is there some different part of the ignition system that takes over for the higher rpm? Is there some kind of spark advance system for higher rpm? What am I missing?

Hello?

Is this a SCAM?

Internal server error?

There had better be an answer here in the morning.

Not a scam, just everone busy.
Sounds like a fuel problem.
The fuel injection is a 'bypass type' system.
Unused fuel returned to tank.If regulator sticking, that could be problem.
The ignition and all spark controls are transmitted via the computer.
If you have a "lazy" or non operating O2 sensors, that could also be the problem. Essentally, the O2 sensors, 'smell' the exhaust, and determines if the engine is running rich or lean. It then , via the computer, controls how long the injectors stay open.If you have access to a digital volt meter, you will see the O2 sensors voltage to cycle rapidly between aprox .8 volt to .3 volt, with .5 being the median.
The voltage 'spikes' should be cycling rapidly, as often as several times a second.
If it is cycling slowly, then we call it a 'lazy o2=bad) If voltage outside these readings, or not having the average voltage of .5 (1/2 ) volt, then you might consider changing.
Thanks for your patience!

Hi,
Regarding your Stanza... Sounds like possibly weak spark, or bad mass air meter.

Check the spark going to the spark plugs. If you pull out a wire, the spark should be able to jump to the end of the boot if the boot is held against the engine while it is running. If not, check from the coil wire. If a strong spark now, suspect faulty cap/rotor. If still weak, suspect a faulty coil/transister/computer.

If the spark is OK, run the engine to the poor running speed, and add a shot of starting fluid. If it runs worse, it is not too lean. Next run it to the poor running speed and create a vacuum leak (pull off a vacuum hose, or pcv hose) If it runs better, then you are too rich which could point to the air flow meter, fuel pressure or computer.

Feel free to write back with the results of the tests, and tomorrow I can respond.

Fuel smell only if rpm pushed past 2900rpm. Runs smoothly and perfectly as long as you want at 2800rpm. Driveable(not on the freeway of course), but must use light pressure on pedal to allow trans to shift early.

Anything over 2900 is instant misfires etc. If not allowed to shift, car will accelerate past 2900 (starting to miss severely at this point) up to about 4000 and then start to decelerate (in spite of full throttle) back below 2900.

Spark hot and blue.
Carb cleaner seems to make no change.

Will try vac. hose in AM. Thanks

Very good, let me know. (I will not be available on Sunday)

Replaced distributor, hall effect. Thanks for your help.

Very good!

1989 Nissan Stanza Fuel System   

I am having problems with my 1989 nissan stanza stalling when I accelarate during the morning especially when the weather is cool.

How is idle cold? The first thing to check is the temperature sensor. Do you have a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) or simply an ohm meter?

1989 Nissan Stanza Engine   

1989 Nissajn Stanza L4 1974cc 2.0 sohc....trying to replace head gasket. removed what we id's as all bolts, etc but head will not break loose. further check looks like have to remove injectors...need help removing the head...thank you

Hi have you done the following
1 undo the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
2. undo the inlet manifold from the head.
3. set the timing marks and remove the timing belt.
4 undo all head bolts.
after you have done this you may need to get a rubber hammer or use a piece of wood and hit it with a hammer to break the seal on the gasket as over time the gasket can weld to both the head and the block.

Place a piece of wood in the middle of the cylinder and hit it a few times with a hammer do this from all faces you can get to on the head and then this will free it and allow you to remove the head.

make sure you have diconected all electric wires from the head such as temp sensor and fan switch double check nothing else is connected.

the head gasket can weld to both the head and block and you could also have dowels at either end of the head holding it onto the block so tapping with a hammer will break this seal you may need to hit it hard but make sure your hitting the wood and not the cylinder.

1989 Nissan Stanza Engine   

1989 nissan stanza 4L 2.0 sohc....three days we have tried to remove the head from this vehicle..I think we are close but we cannot get the inlet manifold bolts off because we cannot get to them--even thought of removing the injectors and everything around the manifold, but there must be a better way...if you could tell me with how many bolts must be removed where they are located and how to get to them to remove them i will forever be thankfull....thank you....joe moore

Hi Joe,

If that is the CA20 engine pull the head with intake and exhaust manifolds still attached.

Tell me your email address and I will put a file together for you from the Chilton Auto Repair Data Base.

Thanks,

Roger

my information on engine: CA20E-----

Would you like the info I have from the data base, or do you already have removal instructions?

Roger

chilton auto data base sound good--please provide...i need all the help i can get....i have replaced a head gasket before, but this is has been much more difficult. i really appreciate you efforts to help...look forward to receiving the data base...thank you ... joe moore

i forgot to add my emal address to my follow-up question....[redacted] .....thank you

Please check your email Inbox, Junk, and Spam folders for Subject 1989 Stanza. I'll get that done right away.

Roger

1988 Nissan Stanza Ignition System   

Car doesn't start making no sound at all but the battery is fully charge @ 12.66. Could this be an in-line fuse problem or ignition relay?

Hello, What engine/transmission please? When I know this info I can look up the correct wiring diagram concerning fuses/relays.

Will the car start in Neutral?

Roger

vin jnlht2112tht037433
Engine family
HNS:OV5FCF9
Engine displacement:1204c1d
4door 132820
NISSAN MOTOR CO.,LTD JAPAN 1987
IT DOESN'T START ON NEUTRAL AND I CAN'T FIND THE STARTER FROM ABOVE.

Be sure all fuses in the fuse box are good. There is a 15 amp fuse that supplies power to the Inhibitor Relay located at the right front of the engine compartment.

When the key is turned to start this relay should energize and send power on the Blk/Yel wire to the starter Motor.

Can you locate the Inhibitor Relay and verify that it works when some one turns the key to start?

Roger

I'll do just that when I can hold on someone to turn the key to start.

Thanks,

[redacted]

Thanks, I will look for your findings in your next message.

Roger

I just found out that this Nissan Stanza is not 1988 but actually a 1987. Does that make any difference to what you've already gone through?
With this car's wiring harness, the starter is only accessible with a hoist.

I'll check but I doubt there is any difference. The data base says the starter is accessed from under the car.

Many models are this way,

Roger

I have looked at diagrams for the 1988 & 1987. They are exactly the same so no worries.

Roger

1987 Nissan Stanza Engine Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

Hello,
Once my engine has been running for approx. 15-20 minutes, it begins to hesitate severly and sometimes won't start again if it gets shut down. The engine starts and runs smoothly when it's cold. I've heard a lot of good ideas like checking the MAF, coolant temperature sensor, injectors, EGR, etc. I am just wondering if there is a particular place on these Stanzas that would most likely be the culprit.
Thanks
Marty

Marty, How long has it been since the fuel pump was changed? Always a good start (cheap and easy). How long has this been a problem and how long have you had the car. How long since a full tune up? Waiting on your response. AL

1987 Nissan Stanza All Part Groups Stalling When repairing Always

Hi, Starts, runs for 10 seconds, stalls. No power to the throttle valve switch. Can you tell me where it gets its power from? Changed fuel pump and same problem. Kevin

Kevin,
The throttle valve switch gets its power from the computer (under the passenger seat). You could have a faulty computer, bad relay or wiring problem.
Sterlingfixer

Where is the relay? A
Anyway of determining which one it could be?

My daughter left the window open and the car got pretty damp and then she parked it and it has sat.

Hello, See if you can copy the link below into your browser address line for a look at your engine's wiring harness schematic. If the link doesn't work for you I can fax or email it to you if you'll tell me where to send the drawing.

Your car's computer powers the throttle valve switch.

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/framerq.asp

Please advise,

Roger

I'm checking to see if you received my last message.

How can I help?,

Roger

1987 Nissan Stanza Engine Chugging When accelerating Always

!987 Nissan Stanza. Car starts fine but requires a lot of feathering to get it up to speed. If you mash the accelerator the car will sputter and miss. as you release the pedal, the car will start to smooth out. Once it starts firing on all cylinders it's fine, It'll run like a raped ape! It idles kind of rough...like it's searching for a proper idle speed.

It's been suggested that I need to replace the idle air control valve. I priced this part at $188! I don't want to spend that kind of money if it's not really the problem.

HELP!!!

Thanks,

Andy

Also, I've replaced the fuel filter, plugs and wires. Put Sea Foam in the engine crankcase, gas tank and even poured some through the lines to run through the injectors.

I assume you have the fuel injected engine. The idle control valve is intended primarily to control idle, if you have a problem above idle it is not likely the problem. You can simply unplug the electrical connector to the idle speed motor. This will keep the idle speed motor adjusted at its last position and will attempt to maintain a constant idle speed. If the idle speed still fluctuates check thoroughly for vacuum leaks (all vacuum hoses and around the throttle body and air inlet to throttle body).

Does your check engine light come on while the engine is running? This would indicate a problem with a sensor/circuit. The TPS- throttle position sensor- and MAF- airflow sensor- are critical sensors.

Does it make any difference with a cold engine vs at operating temperature?

No difference whether it's cold or warm. There is a sensor light lit while it's running. It's seems to be an idle problem. Like I said, if you baby the accelerator it'll run pretty well. It runs great when the engine is at high RPM, but idle is really rough. Starting off from a dead start is the worst. Really, it's anytime you step hard on the accelerator, the engine sputters a bit.

Also, when I looked this car up there only seems to be one engine that was offered on an 87 Stanza. That's the reason I didn't include more info on the engine.

I've been surprised before when one database list one engine and another two or three (especially when in different countries). So on suspect years I sometimes ask to be certain.

Try the things I suggested with the idle speed motor, you can also remove and clean the idle speed motor and its passageway. They get dirty/sticky over time.

Did the problem start once the sensor light came on? If yes diagnostic trouble codes will have to be accessed. Try a search on the internet to see if there are do it yourself instructions (about.com lists instructions for many cars) to access codes. Some chain autoparts stores pull trouble codes free of charge, Autozone- Advance- Parts America- Etc- call ahead of time and see if they offer this service for your car.

A piece of debri partially holding the egr valve open can also cause an unstable idle while the car runs great at speed.

If you don't have a repair guide for your car use the following site- there should be a free one about the equivalent of a Haynes or Chiltons repair manual-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
One warning- if you disconnect the idle speed motor and run the engine this will probably set a fault code for it.

I bought the car in this condition...well, my daughter did. She only paid a couple hundred. It's a car to get her back and forth until she has money to buy a better one.

The autoparts stores I called say they can only do diags on a car '96 or newer. I'm trying to locate the codes and the proper pins to jump for the Stanza, hopefully the link you gave me will work.

I'll keep this ticket open and let you know what I foudn. egr valve is an intriguing idea...

Simply plug the egr passageway to see if this is the problem.

Here are two link I found on the net that offer instructions for self diagnosis, I hope they are legitimate.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-34.htm

http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/pre88nssn.shtml

Let me know what you find for trouble codes, this should be the first step.

This is gonna sound stupid. Where's the ECM on this little beast?!??!

Checked the EGR, it seems to be working fine. It's getting vacumn anyway.

found it. Under the front passenger seat. Got code 44...normal operations! One thing that did happen though, it seemed to smooth out a little when I turned down the idle with the same switch on the ECu that I used to set the diag modes. A little better but still running rough.

To rule out the egr, you need to plug the passageway into the intake. The problem can be the egr valve sticking open slightly from debri (ie- a chunk of carbon), the result is unwanted air entering the mix and poor idling.

Have you unplugged the idle speed motor to see if idle stabilizes?

Try tapping on the MAF sensor, not to hard, and see if this causes the car to stumble at idle.

One more thing. One of the tests, Mode 4 says the red led is supposed to light when the accelerator is pressed. Well, it didn't. The green led lit when we hit 12 mph, but the red led never lit. The fault indicates a bad Throttle Position Sensor. That's the black box I was talking about before. The picture is a little different, but that's exactly what I was playing around with earlier. The symtpoms shown on one of hte links you gave me sound exactly like what this car is doing. $34 to fix it if it is indeed the problem.

Call your autoparts store and see if they can test the throttle position sensor off the car. Never over look wiring and the connector/pins.

1987 Nissan Stanza All Part Groups  Happens always Always

I have 3 key problems I'll list in order of critical to effective operation: Car is a GXE model w/ manual transmission.
1. Clutch pedal is on the floor, where do I check and add fluid is necessary.
2. Tail lights fail to work, most of the time, seems to be tied to the same circuit as the dash lights as they don't work when the tail lights don't work. Can sometimes make them come on by clicking the high beam switch forward on the turn signal lever.
3. A/C doesn't work, when I turn the switch on, there is an instantaneous drop in r.p.m.'s, but then it kicks back up to idle level.

Locate the clutch master cylinder and add fluid to the resevoir. The resevoir will either sit on top of the clutch master cylinder or this will be a hose that leads from the master cylinder to the resovoir. If you have a leak it likely needs repair right away.

The lights may very well be the switch problem itself.

On the A/C first check to see if the compressor is seized.

Use the follong link to access a free online repair guide that should be helpful-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1987 Nissan Stanza Fuel System   

My car runs smoothly when gentlty at idle and when gently pressing the throttle, but when I give more than half throttle it stalls out completely if I hold it down, but when I release to any point before halfway it runs fine. I've taken this two repair shops and no one seems to know. What could be causing this? FYI I have have a total tune up and even a new air flow meter replaced. Thanks!

Did they check fuel pressure? This is critical for wide open throttle.

Also they need to check the TPS (throttle position sensor).

Third on the list is a restricted exhaust. They can temporarily remove the oxygen sensor, the engine will rev fine with it removed if a restricted exhaust is the problem (IE- plugged catalytic converter).

Don't think we checked the pressure but did check throttle position sensor. I also had new catalyc converters installed.

Also don't know if this has anything to do with it but. The starter does not work as I use a toggle that just recently started acting up. It will only catch every now and then. than that I hear the click sound.

It starts fine just will not acellerate well. However, I did just replace the starter.

1987 Nissan Stanza All Part Groups   

We've replaced the injectors, intake manifold, timing belt, and a switch. It still runs rough when cold. Once it warms up it runs better.

Have you checked the coolant temperature sensor?

that has been replaced as well.

Okay, depending on your engine you may have an intake temperature sensor too.

Also confirm adequate fuel pressure and volume.

no intake sensor....here is what all has been replaced: fuel filter, 4 fuel injectors, coolant temperature sensor, throttle positioning sensor, timing belt, auxiliary air control valve, and the spark plugs.
At 4,000 RPMS(in any gear) it stops accelerating. Chugs.

This car was bought and parts replaced to be donated to someone in Louisiana who lost everything. I need it fixed before giving it to them.

I haven't heard back regarding the 4000rpms cutting out and stops accelerating.....

Some Nissans had a low cut off point before the rev limiter kicked in. See if it does the same thing in neutral. Does it run fine up until 4k, and does it cut off as if someone flipped a switch?