Nissan XE Series Pick-up

1997 Nissan XE Series Pick-up Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

MY TRUCK HAS A DISTRIBUTOR THAT WAS USED IN THE MODEL FOR JUST 2 YEARS. IT HAS A CRANK ANGLE SENSOR BUILT INTO IT. IT IS THROWING A CODE FOR CRANK ANGLE SENSOR AND THERE IS NO PULSE TO THE FUEL INJECTION. I ORDERED A NEW CRANK ANGLE SENSOR FROM NAPA AND PUT IT IN BUT STILL NOTHING. I AM 2 WEEKS WITHOUT TRANSPORTATION AT THIS POINT. I DONT KNOW IF IT IS COINCIDENTAL BUT THIS HAPPENED RIGHT AFTER I DROVE THROUGH FAIRLY DEEP WATER. THERE DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE ANY MOISTURE IN THE DISTRIBUTER HOWEVER AND LIKE I SAID THE REPLACEMENT DID NOTHING EITHER. WHEN IT DIED IT GRADUALLY DIED. IT RAN ROUGH AND CUT OUT SLOWLY UNTIL FINALLY I COULD NO LONGER RESTART IT. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT COULD HAPPEN THAT WOULD TRIGGER THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR CODE? ANYTHING ELSE THAT WOULD KEEP THE INJECTION FROM RECEVING PULSE?

Here are the specifications on the CMP Sensor:
Digital Range
Power Supply (Volts-DC) B+
Ground Level (Volts-DC) 0.001 - 0.05
Signal State Backprobed High (Volts-DC) 4.8 - 5.2
Signal State Backprobed Low (Volts-DC) 0.001 - 0.5
Signal Circuit Reference Open Circuit (Volts-DC) 4.8 - 5.2
Notes: To check the "Signal State", rotate the engine by hand, or "bump" the engine over with the starter while observing the voltage.
Check these readings, especially the signal circuit. Also the power and ground circuit. If the power or ground is bad, the signal will not be sent. If you have a good signal, check at the computer to be sure it is being received there, a broken wire or loose connector can cause your failure. If signal is good, you could have a bad computer.
If the signal is not good, check for a shorted signal wire, or a bad sensor.
Dale

1996 Nissan XE Series Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

All I get is a relay click when I try to start my truck. I have a fully charged battery, the starter was tested good. I was told that the battery cable to starter was bad so I replaced it. The still have the same problem. Any ideas??

Hi, will the car jump start? Are the battery cable connections clean and tight at both ends?

How was the starter tested?

Roger

1994 Nissan XE Series Pick-up All Part Groups   

1994 Nissan XE 4WD VG30E 6CYL Engine, 126000 miles:
Recently I had a drive shaft bushing replaced. Now the truck rumbles (vibrates) at about 35mph and smoothes out at about 50mph. The rumble dissipates somewhat after a few miles. The dealer mechanic checked the job out and said it was OK and that I should check the tires (15K miles on the tires). The tire guy said the front tires were a little feathered but not too bad... balanced the right front tire (most wear); he told me to check the rear diff. The guys that did the bushing checked the rear diff for filings and leaks but it was good so they checked and re-balanced all the tires. Rumble still there. I swapped the supposed bad tire with a good spare... no change. What gives?

You most likely have a loose or bad universal joint.
They could have upset it when they changed the drive shaft bushing.
One other thing to look at would be the drive shaft itself to see if a wieght may
have broken off and threw out the balance.
I hope this helps

Thanks for your reply... where are the u-joints and where might one place a weight on the shaft? How does one go about balancing a drive shaft? This information will be forwarded to the Nissan dealer mechanic for their (and my) benefit.

Thanks in advance
J.D.

The ujoints are located on the end of the drive shaft attached to thr yoke plugged into the rear end.
you can inspect the drivshaft for clean spots where there could have been a weld , this will have to be testesed at a transmission shop even if it is bent or damaged it will render the same vibration results.

1994 Nissan XE Series Pick-up Engine   

My 1994 King-Cab 4X4 pick-up hesitates and acts as if it is flooding-out while operating under normal driving conditions. Truck does not have much power and loses power noticably when reaching 3,000 RPMs. Acts this way constantly, but is more noticable during colder weather. Has been doing this for about a year. No "Check Engine Light" (Bulb is good) observed. The emissions are heavy and have a strong odor. I have replaced the fuel temperature sensor and have checked the fuel filter and the fuel pump. I am in the process of replacing the O2 sensor in hopes this will take care of it. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Typical O2 sensor failure will not result in substantial loss of performance, still possible but...

Any black smoke from the exhaust at anytime, notably when revving engine?

The first thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator, pull the vacuum hose off and inpsect for signs of raw gasoline.

Did you actually test fuel pressure, making sure it was not to high?

Beyond this, it is likely leaking fuel injectors or a sensor problem. Let me know the engine size and I'll tell you which sensor to check.

No black smoke. The exhaust is noticably heavy though with a light color, and has a stronger than usual foul odor.

When I had a mechanic check the fuel pressure, it did read a little stronger than he was accustom to seeing. I don't remember exactly how high it was.

The engine is a 4 cylinder with manual transmission.

Also, the vehicle idles without any noticable problem.

I am a novice so you will have to bear with me answering some of these questions.

Thanks for the quick reply.
Dave

Does the engine run better when it's (the engine) is cold and get worse when it is hot?

The reason I ask is I suspect you are getting a rotten egg smell, signs the catalytic converter is working to hard and may be plugging.

No, it is noticably worse when it is cold.

There is also a considerable amount of soot or carbon on the inside of the tail-pipe, which is another reason I think the engine is running really rich.

Okay, with the engine cold rev the engine and see if there is any black smoke. Then let the engine idle for a minute and rev. Do the same with the engine warmed. Any black smoke at any of these points? I'm trying to figure out when it is running rich.

By the way, the spark plugs and wire have been replaced?

How many miles on the engine, have you confirmed strong compression?

Has the timing chain ever been replaced? These had trouble with the timing chain guides breaking.

It's pouring rain here right now so the exhaust test will have to wait till tomorrow. However, the engine definately runs rich when you rev the motor and when you try to accelerate quickly. That is when the vehicle loses power.

The plugs and wires are less than one year old.

The engine has a little over 150,000 miles on it.

The timing chain has been replaced once, several years ago.

Not sure about the compression testing.

Thanks,
Dave

Replaced the O2 sensor and the rotor and button (Showed some wear & corrosion), but it didn't help. Not sure what the problem is.

Could not find any signs of vacume leak.

Could it be the Catylitic Converter?

Get the engine warm/hot and look at the converter when it is dark, it will begin to glow excess heat if blockage is severe.

Another thing that can be tried is removing an 02 sensor for test purposes, power will increase immediatedly with this free path for exhaust gases IF converter blockage is present.

1994 Nissan XE Series Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1994 Nissan P/U. KA24 Series Engine. CEL comes on intermittently after 15 minutes of operation. Very rough idle. I have been able to make the light go out by taking foot off of acceleator and then reapplying. I do this several times and the light goes out, but will come back on. CEL does not stay lit. With transmisison in neutral, engine idles smoother, but will go from 1000 RPM to 500 RPM and slowly idle back up to 1000. This happens consistently when I try this.
I tried the "pull the plug wire one at a time" test and when the wire removed from cylinder two, did not change the affect of the rough idle. All other wires when pulled made the engine idle obviously rougher. I confirmed cylinder two it is getting spark. It does not seem to be firing. New gapless plugs installed, still happening. Replaced Oxygen sensor that all parts places and NISSAN dealer assured me would correct problem. No Go. I do hear popping sounds when listening under the hood on the Exhaust manifold side of the engine, while the engine is at Idle but cannot determine where they are coming from. New spark plug wire, rotor and distrributor cap also installed about 3,000 miles ago. Before replaceing the MAFS, I would like to be sure I need to incur that cost.
Any suggestions where I need to be looking. If I have to check the ECU, please advise the best way to remove the passenger bucket seat.

Don't buy any more parts, not yet anyway.

If there was no change in running when disabling the NO 2 cylinder, this is a red flag (although must be tested a few times to confirm).

The check engine light may be the result of a rough engine running but not the cause of the rough running engine. Normally we would check ECU codes first, but a dead cylinder (or near dead) cylinder takes precedence.

I assume you confirmed spark to the # 2 cyl (if not do so when the problem is preset). You can also swap the # 2 injector with another fuel injector. Note where you moved the # 2 injector. If the problem follows the injector the fuel injector is at fault.

You need to check cylinder compression on the # 2 cylinder with a compression gauge. Autozone or Advance Auto may have a compression gauge as part of their tool loaner program, call ahead. What they do is loan speciality tools for a fully refundable deposit (which is the value of the tool). You will have to test quickly when the problem is present, test several times UNLESS the compression is low on any of the tests.

How did the # 2 plug look when you removed it? Any black sooty deposits or blistery white appearance?

By the way, has the timing chain ever been replaced? The plastic guides would shatter on these engines and could cause a rough idle when the timing is off.

Timing chain is original.

Changed plugs, rotor button, wires and cap. Just replaced plugs again. Plugs looked normal, some soot. Replaced with BOSCH Platinum gapless. Confirmed spark getting to spark plug by grounding to block, and myself accidentlly. What a rush.

Have not done compression test.

Injectors, and all other sensors less Oxygen sensor are original. As are all other electrical items. Coil Pack, distributor itself is original.

Okay, do you understand the fuel injector test I gave you?

Do you have a repair manual? If not I'll give you a link to a free online repair manual that covers the fuel injectors on your truck.

If you have an ohm meter you can also check the resistance of the fuel injectors. Check them all and record the results. Warm the truck until the problem is well established, then as quickly as possible meausure ohms on the number 2 cylinder. Any difference with the number 2 cyl?