where is the fuse for light in the center console, speedometer and tachometer?
Roger -
Hello, did you intend to release this question having had no dialog with me concerning my suggestion?
Or,did you intend to accept my suggestion as an answer?
I'm only trying to help..please advise.
Roger
New User -
I have the owner's manual and checked all the fuses I could find. I need to know how the speedometer and tach and console light are wired for power since none of the fuses are blown. Is there a hidden in-line fuse or what?
New User -
Also the driver information screen is blank.
Roger -
Thank you for a second chance, I am sincere in my efforts to help you.
I hope to know more tomorrow. I doubt we are looking for a fuse here. But rather an output or ground provided by a body control module or the like. That's a strange trio of items to go inop, huh?
Hang in there..
Roger
New User -
Thanks. I have an appt. with olds dealer Wed at 9 am central. They say they have wiring diag. on computer. I am going to order the service manual for future ref. Info seems to be rare for the Aurora.
Roger -
Hello, if you don't have access to an owners manual for fuse panel mapping, I recommend you call an Oldsmobile Dealer service advisor or the service manager. Most are friendly enough to provide you an answer on the phone.
Roger
Roger -
I will be at an Olds dealer this Wed. morn at about 11am central!!
I'll be looking at diagnostics and wiring diagrams for your car.
Roger
New User -
Thank you for the help. The dealer found a fuse that I had overlooked--- naturally. It is labeled interior lights #12 on the dash fuse panel. I assumed it was ok because the dome lights were still working. Well I should have pulled it and checked it too. Too much trying to think about it too hard. I will pay you for the effort. Maybe we both learned something. The car is nice and smooth and good looking. I think we will enjoy it. Will wait for your comments. The dealer was reluctant to get me a schematic, which I expected. Thanks
Roger -
That's great news! I poured over the shop manual and had made a plan, but, you won't need it. I based a theory on all fuses good.
You will find the shop manual available to you at Helm, Inc. There are three volumns to the set. Pricing/shipping and credit cards accepted information are all on line at www.helminc.com.
I need the procedure to replace the A/C compressor. I know access to the unit is difficult, so the procedure needs to include what, if any, interference needs to be removed (like inner fenders) to get sufficient access to remove and install the unit.
Roger -
Hello, What size engine please? Do you have a floor jack and two jack stands to support the front of the car?
EPA requirements call for recovery of any residual freon. Does that need to be done?
Will the warranty on your replacement compressor require replacing the accumulator also?
What kind of failure did the compressor have? Did it seize up?
The answers to all these questions help me know what instructions to advise.
Roger
New User -
"Hello, What size engine please? Do you have a floor jack and two jack stands to support the front of the car?
EPA requirements call for recovery of any residual freon. Does that need to be done?
Will the warranty on your replacement compressor require replacing the accumulator also?
What kind of failure did the compressor have? Did it seize up?
The answers to all these questions help me know what instructions to advise.
Roger"
Hi Roger...nice to hear from you again.
The engine size is the standard 4.0 V8, which as far as I know was the only engine available for the make/model from 95 - 99.
Yes, I have a floor jack and two jack stands.
The compressor itself is leaking the refrigerant, so there is no residual to capture. The original symptom occured late last summer. The A/C wasn't pushing cold air. So we had it recharged and they put dye in the refrigerant. The dye made it easy to find the exact spot where the leak is, and it's on the compressor. So we do not plan to replace the accumulator.
Roger -
1.Disconnect the car battery negative cable connection.
2.Remove the serpentine belt.
3.Jack and support the front of the car. 4.Remove the right front wheel.
5.Remove the flexible splash guard held on by small screw fasteners or push pin plugs to reveal the front of the compressor.
6.Remove the metal rock shield fastened to the engine cradle below the compressor if equiped.
7.Disconnect the compressor clutch electrical connector.
8.Disconnect the a/c hose manifold from the compressor.
9.Remove the compressor mount bolts that are accessable through the wheel opening and at the rear compressor mounts.
10.Support the front crossmember of the engine cradle half way across the front of the car with the floor jack.
11.Remove the two front mount bolts from the engine cradle.
12.SLOWLY lower the front of the engine cradle with the floor jack just enough to allow the compressor to be removed over the cradle frame and out through the wheel opening.
Assembly is reverse order. Evacuate the system and recharge.
Provided you are certain the problem is as simple as a slow leak the orifice tube screen/filter should be all right. If in doubt locate the orifice tube crimp in the liquid line and seperate the fitting there for access to the orifice tube. Remove the tube noting the instalation orientation and clean the screen with brake cleaner. Lube the "O" ring with PAG oil and reinsert the tube the same way it came out...don't put it in backwards!
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