1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always
New User Asked -
Drive train appears to be 'winding up to a whirl' sound (started just last nite) and does not appear to be affected by in or out of gear, only speed of movement. Have brand new Michellin tires, they've been on for 2 weeks and this noise is brand new. Vehicle has gone thru it's 108,000 servicing, about 2 months ago.
Sterlingfixer -
Hi,
Your noise has several places it could be coming from. Wheel bearings, differential or brakes seem like the most likely. Each has different ways in which it appears better or worse. The wheel bearings tend to get better or worse when taking a 30MPH corner, left or right, like when on an entrance ramp. If you notice a change in your noise, it is likely your wheel bearings. The diffential will change its noise when accelerating, coasting, or decelerating. If you notice a change during that type of driving suspect the differential (inside the transmission). And lastly, if the noise changes when you apply the brakes, it should be brake related.
If non of the above make a change, it is likely in the tires.
Hope this helps!
New User -
thank you. disappointingly, if you are correct then it is the differential. I'm female, middle aged and mechanically on Mars. Do you have any estimate as to cost to repair?
Sterlingfixer -
I recommend you take it to a transmission shop. They will be able to verify the problem and give you a more accurate estimate. Typically, overhauling your transmission will cost from 1[redacted] .
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When braking
Bstark Asked -
I am having brake light problems. The two brake lights don't work when I hit the pedal but the 3rd (center) one does work. The hazards don't come on at all. Also, the blinkers act weird when the brake pedal is held down. They speed up and slow down, or sometimes don't work for a few seconds. I have changed all bulbs on the rear of the car. One set of sockets(back-up lights) on the left side had some corrosion in them. I cleaned it up with electric parts cleaner, and they come on when in reverse. I tore the trunk apart to see if any wires were damaged but I couldn't find any. Could this be a ground issue? Any idea on location of the ground wires on this vehicle? Any thoughts? Thank you
Sterlingfixer -
Hi Bstark,
On this vehicle, the brake lamps and the reverse lamps share the same ground. Most likely the ground is not the issue. More likely is a bad turn sgnal/hazard switch, through which the left and right brake wiring is fed. The center light is fed directly from the brake switch, and so the switch is working. Changing the switch is not a job for the inexperienced, or for the faint of heart. It requires 1.5 to 2 hours with experience and some special tools that are required.
Dale
Bstark -
So this is probably not due to a faulty flasher or wiring problem? We have had problems with the turn signal switch in the past, it would stick. I still don't understand why the hazards won't come on at all, though. Are they wired in series or something?
Bstark -
Actually, I was incorrect with some information. The flashers do indeed work. Today was the 1st time that I had somebody inside the car while I watched. Everything works fine except for the rear two brake lights. The blinkers flash properly, I just misjudged them because I was looking at their reflection off from the walls in my garage. Thank You.
Sterlingfixer -
As I recall, the flashers, hazards and brake lamps all use the same bulbs in the rear. To perform this feat, the wiring passes through the emergency switch, which is part of the turn signal assembly. If the switch is not making proper contact there, it can fail just as you have described. A failed flasher can stop your hazards, but should not affect the brake lights. MAKE SURE THAT THE HAZARDS ARE TURNED OFF WHEN CHECKING THE BRAKE LIGHTS! If the brake lights now work, then you likely have simply a bad flasher (under the dash).
Dale
1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Engine Stalling Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
My 96 Cutlass Supreme has 140,000 miles. At about 100,000 it would stall when in prolonged traffic, now it stalls at different times while driving, usually at low speeds and at intersections. It takes 5 minutes to start again. I have had all types of sensors replaced and of course the computer never shows anything and it never happens when the mechanic has it. It is very infrequent, 2-4 times a year, but I am afraid to drive it far and alone at night. I use 89 octane gas, the valves knock with the lower octane.
Les -
Hi;
Sounds like the distributor module is going out on it. Good Luck Les.
New User -
This problem has been occuring for the last 2 years. The distributor module was changed, and like everything else it appears like it worked and then 6 months later it happens again. That's the biggest problem, it happens so infrequently and we are never sure if the problem is really fixed.
Les -
Hi;
Have a diagnostic test ran on it. Sounds like it is a intermittent problem that is going to be hard to fix. Thanks Les.
1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always
Tony Asked -
Heat no working, water pump and thermostat already changed.
Gro -
IF your system has a good flow, and heater core is clean and not plugged up? this could be a blown (head or intake manifold) gasket or leak in cooling system. Have the system flushed, if you havent already done so. and then pressure test the system. Depending on what engine you have in car, the system may need to be vacuum filled to remove air in lines. If car doesnt overheat all the time it still could be a blown gasket.
Tony -
Thanxs for the info. I think it is clogged. I will say it did have air in the system. Also when I was bleeding te air out I noticed black stuff entering into the overflow bottle.
Gro -
Your welcome, glad its something simple and not the more expensive and labor intensive problems it could have been.
When I first put transmission in drive, nothing happens and no forward gear will work. You can race the engine etc. as if its in neutral. I then move the shift lever forward until it detents in reverse, and the car goes into reverse. At that point I can then shift into drive and car works fine. Oil is full, filter new, oil is red and doesn't smell burned.
macconeck -
First of all check the fluid levels and also check your linkage adjustment to see if they are low and run a system scan on the car computer to see if you come up with any diagnostic codes
if you find nothing then there is no doubt that something internal with the transmission that is causing it to act up
There is a problem with the torque converter or flex plate
There could be a problem with the electrical controls for the transmission or the transmission filter is clogged
it is also possible that the parking pawl in the transmission is stuck
Before jumping on any of these as a fact I would dump the trans fluil and filter. Flush out the system and replace the filter and oil. it may clear up the problem
I hope this helps
1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
My brake lights do not work. The middle light in the window works, all bulbs have been changed, fuses are fine and the lights have been grounded. what else should I look at?
Roger -
Hello, Look at the brake light switch it self. If it outputs voltage to the turn signal switch (brake lights do go through the turn signal switch) but you have no brake lights, replace the turn signal switch in the steering column.
Roger
New User -
the turn signal lights do work
Roger -
Check the brake light switch.
Roger
New User -
Thanks - I will
Roger -
Perhaps it will better explain to you that the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. Even if the turn signals do work the brake lights are powered by a different circuit than the turn signals are. It is still the turn signal switch's job to direct the brake light power to the brake lights.
Power leaves the brake light switch to the turn signal switch via a white wire. When you apply the brakes and find that the white wire leaving the switch has power you can believe the turn signal switch has the problem.
We recently noticed rough idle in gear when hot. Then hard to start when hot, then dies sometimes idling when hot. No problems when cold. Could this be the coolant sensor to PCM acting up? Or maybe fuel pump?
New User -
This is a 3100 engine and it sat a couple of years. We put in a new battery and it started right up. We had the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter replaced. It runs fine at all speeds.
Douglas -
Do you get any smoke from the exhaust when you rev from idle OR a smell of unburnt gasoline?
Also, when hard to start hot, try holding the accelerator to the floor. Does it start more quickly?
New User -
No smoke or smell of gas. We try holding the pedal to the floor without luck. It always starts after sitting about 10 minutes. Does the coolant sensor have any control over the amount of gas going to the injectors? I read this on the internet. In the touble shooting section of the manual it also mentions air filter clogged and ground on the battery loose, both are good.
Douglas -
The coolant sensor is a possibility. It is easy to test if you have a multimeter.
The coolant sensors main job is to tell the computer when the engine is cold, at which time it needs extra fuel to start. When it reports the engine temp is hot the fuel mix is trimmed.
The idle speed motor and egr valve are also possible. Try cleaning the idle speed motor and throttle body (which includes the throttle blade and idle speeds motors port into the the throttle body). This is good maintenance even if it's not the problem.
Try this and we'll continue as necessary.
1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Brake lights/turn signals.
Left turn signal only works while in the having the lever in the left position, but you have to slightly pull the lever toward the driver in and out, horizontally, not vertically like switching in-between left neutral and right.
Right turn signal will only work when in switching positions in between right and neutral position
the right position, basically working the signal manually.
Brake lights left and right do not work, only the middle one in the back window works.
(All fuses have been checked and are operational, and all bulbs have been replaced)
I've done all the troubleshooting i can, and i'm assuming it is a turn signal switch / lever issue.
Is there anyone who would have an estimate on a replacement (i've looked into the process of the replacement, and i do not have the necessary skills or tools), or any other troubleshooting ideas you would suggest?
Roger -
Hi, In my opinion you do indeed need to have the turn signal switch replaced.
Aside from the issues with the switch lever requiring manipulation the circuits for brake lights on the body (not the high mount brake light in the back window) run through the turn signal switch.
My estimate is $150 - $175 parts and labor. It will vary depending on whether or not you will be charged a diagnosis fee.
You could shop this job on the phone at independant shops for their estimate. If there is a steering column specialty shop near you give them a call. Such shops pride themselves at fixing steering columns that a thief has broken.
Does this help?
Roger
New User -
Well the rough point in this decision, the reason i have not taken it in yet while having the "correct diagnosis" in my opinion, is the fact that the only person to touch such a procedure in town, is the manufacturer, which i have been told will.... blatantly speaking "put it in without lube". I've already looked into parting out things, and it looks to be anywhere from 50-90 dollars for the part. i'm mainly wondering if this will really bite me when it comes to taking it to the dealership. "i live in Butte, MT"
Roger -
Do you have contacts such as your car insurance agent, social groups, or a Chamber Of Commerce you could consult for suggestions where to take the car?
Body shops might want your business. You could try some of the shops listed in Anaconda and Whitehall as well.
Copy and paste this link into your address line on your browser:
ok, i will do some talking to vendors/mechanics from around different towns around the area, and hopefully get a decent estimate. additional question, i apologize, as i am not very experienced in dealing with the automotive world other than self-involvement. Do you think a mechanic would accept a part that was bought separately from them personally? I wouldn't assume it would be cost effective to get the part through them because they would either rack up a price or charge excessive rates due to shipping. *i definitely might be stereotyping but i have been F*ed in the past.*
Roger -
When you call to shop the job ask the shop owner or foreman if they will install a part you supply. They will tell you. Expect to pay a diagnostic fee.
A shop makes profit money on parts and labor. Some charge EPA fees and shop supplies as well. If you furnish the part the shop stands to lose a percentage of his profit so it may not be they will cooperate. This is because if word gets out they are open to this practice they stand to lose business that pays the shops bills.
If I personally install an owner's part I reserve the right not to warranty the installation over 30 days. And if there is a failure of the part within the 30 day period since I installed the part I will charge the labor again unless it can be verified my workmanship was the cause of the failure. It helps if I know you get your part from the same supplier that I do.
It's all about how you approach the mechanic. Honest straight talk as to why you want to furnish the part goes a long way.
Example: Someone else furnished the part to help you save some money, or gave it to you as a present/gift.
Roger
Roger -
Bedtime here.
Roger
New User -
Well thank you very much Roger, for all your help, i will take all of your guidance to heart while i talk to my local vendor/mechanics, and there will definitely be a bonus towards you for your advice if you supply me with a valid pay pal account. Again, i thank you exponentially.
Roger -
To close this question please click on OK to finish up. That will be all I need.
The car has power locks, windows, etc. The locks automatically lock when the car is started with doors closed (normal). Now the interior lights all stay on and the locks do not lock. It is impossible to turn off the interior lights. This acts like a bad door switch, although working each does nothing. After the car is shut off, the lights stay on for a few minutes, then shut off. Opening car doors after the lights are off does not turn the lights back on. Turning the ignition on causes the interior lights to turn back on and stay on until the car has been shut off for the waiting period above. Thanks for any suggestions!!
Roger -
Okay, here is what I've found. (Source 1994 Olds Cutlass Factory Shop manual)
If the interior lights remain on with all the doors closed and the dome light control switch OFF:
Disconnect the door jam switches one at a time. If the interior lights go OFF when you disconnect a jam switch, replace that switch.
If the lights remain ON with all door jam switches disconnected, repair circuit #156 (white wire) short to ground.
Ensure all aftermarket equipment (includes alarms, keyless entry) are disconnected to allow the car to be diagnosed in it's original state of of manufacture.
I note that the courtesy lights have a ground through the MULTI-FUNTION ALARM MODULE. However this ground has a diode in-line before the module. The module ground relative to interior lights relates to key warning if the key is in the ignition, the ignition is OFF and a door opens.
So, if you have no aftermarket equipment to consider and the trouble persists, you'll need to chase that white wire circuiy #156 all around the car for an unwanted ground. Wires get cut on metal edges, screws get shot through wire harnesses and in some cases are burned/melted to another circuit that causes the short.
Your thoughts?,
Roger
Roger -
Hello, Please check all fuses, especially the ones related to interior (CTSY) lights and accessories. Often this can be as simple as a blown fuse caused by some foreign metal object in a cigar lighter socket. It may be a coin, paper clip, foil wrapper, staple..any thing metal. Should you find anything, remove it and try another fuse as needed.
I've also had cases where plugging in a cellular phone, radar detector or similar accessory was the last thing the owner remembered they'd done and the problem showed up. (Maybe the plug got crooked.)
And of course the cigar lighter element may be bad or inserted part way, the car hits a bump, the element "rattles" and a fuse pops.
Your lights time off because a computer or a lamp module is interupting the power to the lights to save the battery from draining it's power. Cycling the key resets the event.
Please advise your findings,
Roger
New User -
The fuses are all okay. I also removed all the door switches so no grounds there could be present and also to be sure switches were okay. (They are.) I measured fro the blue wire (I assume the courtesy light lead) to ground and got 24 ohms, so there is not a short to ground on that circuit. I'm thinking there must be a control module somewhere that also includes the timer, etc. My temoryr fix is to put a mini toggle switch in series with the courtesy light fuse to open the circuit and shut the light off
Roger -
What's happening here, please?
Roger
Roger -
Hi, will you please update the status of your question? Still need help?
Ed,My interior lights under dash wont go off ever (under foot lights). I pulled every fuse (one at a time)and the lights went out when I pulled a 50 amp fuse under the hood on drivers side. Is there a relay in that fuse that might be sticking? I also don't have any back seat dome lights. They look like they have a square type on/off button on them but I cant tell because they don't push in or out at all. I hav'nt had the car long. so I'm not sure what is going on. Are the two lights linked together? And what can I do to fix the problem? My battery keeps going down, so I put a charger on it when I get ready to drive it. Thank You, CBrown
Roger -
Hello, You may have a blown fuse that is causing this.
Look in all of the cigar lighter sockets for rust or a piece of metal such as a coin or staple, a gum wrapper, etc. Remove any such object and test your fuses for a bad one blown by a short (metal in a cigar lighter socket).
Please tell me what you find. There is no relay in the 50 amp fuse you pulled under the hood.
The car cranks won't start. Checked for spark on two front cylinders, with spark tester, good spark. Checked with fuel pressure tester, no fuel pressure. Replace fuel pump. With the ignition key turned on, sound as though pump is pumping up, then turning off. That seems ok. Checked fuel pump fuse, good. Checked fuel pump relay, it clicks when I put the fuel pump fuse back in with the ignition on. Checked to see if it needed more gas, the fuel guage is pegged to full.
I put a volt meter on the relay contacts while cranking, at first there was no voltage, after cranking for a few seconds, the voltage comes up to battery voltage. Any suggestions, may be the PCM needs replacement?
Thanks, Alan
Douglas -
Do you have fuel pressure now?
Have you checked the PCM trouble codes & confirmed fuel injector pulse?
Will the engine start if you spray a small amount of carburetor/throttle body cleaner into the throttle body or a large vacuum hose.
These do have PCM troubles, but it's difficult to confirm when they fail (other problems can mimic a bad PCM).
New User -
I still have no fuel pressure. I am not sure how to check the fuel pulse. It will run for a bit, if I spray some fuel in. Thank you for your timely response. Is there some way to increase what I payed you or some way to tip.
Thank you
Alan Frisbee
Douglas -
Check for injector pulse using what is called a noid light.
Are you sure it has fuel in the tank, barring a restriction in the line/filter you should have some pressure if the pump runs at all.
Do you have a matching relay nearby you can swap with the fuel pump relay, this is the quickest way to test the relay.
New User -
I have put some gas in the tank. The car is on an angle right now, and with the gauge not reporting it is hard to tell. There are three matching relays next to the fuel pump relay. I checked the relay circuit on the side of the relays and they are all the same. I took the relay out and powered it, it clicked. I saw something in the Mitchell books about a fuel shutoff valve. When I took the fuel pump out, the screen was black. Usually, I have seen the screens to be tan. There was not much gas in the tank when I took it down. I cleaned all the area around the fuel pump, and replaced the wiring harness inside the tank. The wires seem lighter duty than what was in there. There was some corrosion, nothing major. I will check into the "Noid" light. Do you put that in the injector connector?
Thanks,
Alan
Douglas -
Some use a test light or voltmeter to check for injector pulse (an On/Off ground signal is sent by the PCM while battery + is constant, will make a noid light flash when plugged in-- a multimeter would typically average the voltage). There is a slight risk of damage to the PCM if a voltmeter is used instead of a noid light (your call, your risk).
Without risk you can check for Key On positive available to the injector. One end of voltmeter to a known good ground the other to the injector connector.
You never did say if you checked trouble codes? Are you familiar with the paper clip method? This method is not applicable if your vehicle is partially OBD2 compliant.
Use the following link to view a diagram of the fuel pump, injector, etc circuit-
Note some of these have a test jumper that you can use to jump the fuel pump. You seem to have a strong understanding of electrical ciruitry, in which case you could jumper right from the relay. If the engine will not run with the fuel pump jumpered (pressure confirmed), we can assume you do not have injector pulse. In which case trouble codes must be checked (possible cam sensor or theft deterrent problem).
I thought I mentioned that the only code that I had was "12". The system flashes the "check engine light" My next move was to jump the fuel pump realy. In the manuals it shows a test point for fuel pump. I was not able to find the it. I probably forgot to mention as well that I replace the fuel filter as well.
Douglas -
Okay, let me know if you have Key On positive voltage to the fuel injectors.
starter won't kick in.
Can you tell me which electronic part will stop the starter to work. I have replace the starter for a new one and it still won't start, I have replace the neutral switch on tranny and still not working.
heavychevy -
Hello
Was it acting funny in anyway before it all gave out? Sounds like its not getting any power at all. I would trace all the wires. starting with the ground on the battery and the wire coming from the starter. Disconnect all clean and replace.
Are your lights and evrything else showing power?
Check all the fuses.
Than I would think about checking the ignition switch after all that checks out.
Heavychevy
New User -
It happen before but started after I tried again.
Everything seems to be working fine and since I replace neutral switch my trunk could be open from driver seat now so everything seems fine except that it won't kick start.Mike
heavychevy -
what exactly do you mean by "it wont kick start"
New User -
Sorry about my english.
The starter won't work. I can hear the fuel pump.
heavychevy -
Also if its a manual when you depress the clutch pedel there is a switch it triggers. It will be easy to locate. Look as you are depressing the pedel with your hand and see if it engaging the switch. I n some cases the get bent or scooted back. In most cars they are adjustable.
Heavychevy
New User -
no it is automatic
heavychevy -
My advice would be check the wires it will probley take awile but 9 out of 10 thats the problem.
Heavychevy
engine was hard to start, spark and compression, ok black smoke came from the exhaust.engine ran very rough lurching as i drove home and had to power brake it to keep it running at stops. strong smell of fuel from engine bay.
made it home but the car would not start again. it has spark and compression. the coverter is not plugged. disconnected the head pipe to make sure.
disconnected the intake tube and maf sensor from plenum, gas poured out of the maf sensor and the plenum when i open the throttle blade.
there is a cpl of pounds of fuel pressure with the key on ,and 50 pound when you crank the engine over.that just floods the engine.wet plugs and plenum full of fuel till it pours out the intake opening.
my friend says maybe a bad fuel regulator, but there should be a ton of gas in the oil. there seems to be some but not over filling the dipstick .there is a gas smell to the oil tho.
any help appreciated before we tear into the timeing belt.and check the timing.it is a 3.4 olds dbl overhead cam 24 valve motor.ran exellent before this.
thanks for any help to get us started on this..Bill
Douglas -
Okay, two likely causes. One is a fuel injector(s) that is stuck open or ON (in which case the ground is always on, when it should only be pulsed on & off). Two is the fuel pressure regulator your friend has suggested, a rather common failure on GM vehicles.
Start by pulling the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Use caution as raw gasoline may spill/spray after removing the hose. If this happens OR the vacuum hose is wet or smells like raw gasoline, the regulator is bad.
Copy and paste the following links into your address bar:
This link will show you an image of the fuel pressure regulator, not the vacuum hose attachment-
Note this link is part of autozone.com's vehicle repair guide, which covers much of your car.
If the regulator is fine, let me know and we'll move on to more in depth testing of the fuel injectors (to see if one is stuck open or ON). The fact that you are losing fuel pressure very quickly lets us know it is bleeding off somewhere, which is not indicative of a timing belt problem.
Douglas -
Additionally, I should remind you NOT to crank the engine over and use extreme caution around the engine area as this excess gas is highly flammable/explosive and can be ignited unexpectedly by normal functions underhood. If in doubt leave the work to a qualified professional and don't take any risks with your safety.
1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
I have a 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with a 3.1. I have had the car to three different GM dealerships and none have been able to solve the problem. Here's the problem, I have to jump start the car everytime I go to start it; once it's started, the car runs great except for the voltage gauge remains under 13 in the red. We have replaced the battery, alternator, starter, and ignition switch. The car basically just can't hold a charge, after you turn the car off, the lights won't work and it needs jumped again to start it. The dealerships did some tracing but couldn't find a short anywhere.
Roger -
Hello, Has a parasitic drain test been performed on the electrical system to determine the drain on the battery?
How many positive battery cables connect to the battery? If two, have the positive cable ends been seperated, the lead spacer pried out and inspected for hidden corrosion?
Does the battery no charge light illuminate with the key on/engine off? What does a multimeter indicate the alternator output voltage to be when the engine runs?
Please advise,
Roger
Roger -
How would you like to begin here? I'd be glad to help you with your car.
Roger
New User -
Sorry it took so long to return your message, I was on a business trip. Ok, yes a parasitic drain test has been preformed and we still were unable to locate the drain of the battery. With the key on, none of the dash lights illuminate. We recently replaced the battery cables and it didn't help either. The alternator has been checked and is reading good. Also, once the car is running, the voltage gauge will stay around 13, however when you accelerate the gauge drops to around 8 or 9. Hope this helps some.
Thanks
Roger -
Do you know what the parasitic drain reading was? Did you get to witness the test?
Do light bulbs dim when the car accelerates?
Does the Check Guages warning light on the instruement cluster work?
Will you be fixing this car, or are you gathereing ideas? Do you have a multi-meter with 10 amp fused ammeter feature?
Roger
New User -
No I didn't witness the test and I don't know what the reading was. yes the lights to dim when you accelerate and the check guagues like does work. My dad is a mechanic and we are going to fix the car, we just cannot figure out what's wrong with it. and yes we have a multi-meter.
thanks
Roger -
Ensure the key is turned off.
With the battery negative cable disconnected; connect the amp meter in series between the negative cable end and the negative battery post. What is the amount of drain on the battery? (35 miliamps is max allowed)
Does this car have aftermarket systems installed? Alarm? DVD Player, etc? If so, how does disconnecting them effect the parasitic drain?
Roger
New User -
Just letting you know that we found the issue; there was a ground problem. Thanks for your help.
Roger -
To close this question please click on OK to finish up.
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Engine Chugging When idling No pattern
New User Asked -
ok i have a 1993 olds cutlass sapreme when i drive down the road the tac will start jumping and the car will start chugging and it will die it will start back up and i can drive 10 feet and it will do it again or i can drive 10 miles and it wont do it at all but it does this all the time i have changed the computer throttle position sencer egnition modgule crank sensor i would realy apriceate the help
Les -
Hi;
What size engine? If it is the quad 4 engine, then check the coil packs. They are underneath the top cover. The housing, which is platic has a habit of cracking and causing misfire. Les
New User -
engine is a 3.1 and i pulled them off and had them checked they was ok
Les -
Hi;
Have you pulled any codes from the computer.
New User -
no i havent i dont know how to do all that
Les -
hi;
you can have someone like autozone help you retrieve the codes. Les
New User -
ok i found the problem but the altenatoer locked up i put a new one on and now i not getting spark to the moter its turning over but its not starting
Les -
Hi;
Take a look at thhe fuses and make sure you did not blow any when it locked up.
The engine runs very smoothly at mid to high RMPs and seems to have plenty of power, but stutters and misses at idle and low RPMs and smells like it’s running very rich. Additionally, if left at idle for more than a minute or two the “Service Engine” light come on. The light will go out if I drive the car and get the RPMs up to normal range for a few minutes.
Sterlingfixer -
Ideally, you should retrieve the codes that are making the check engine light come on. You symptoms sound like it could be a stuck EGR valve. The codes will help pinpoint the fault.
New User -
I went to AutoZone this weekend to see if I could get the codes read and they said they could only do it on 1996 or newer model car. Does this sound right? If not, about how much am I looking at for an in-expensive code reader?
Sterlingfixer -
I think you can get those for less than $50. Or you can use a paper clip between pin A and B and the codes will flash on the check engine light. Each one is 2 digits and flashes 3 times before going on to the next one. (Ignore code 12, the first one)
I have a 1993 olds cutlass. Its a pain removing the back 3 spark plugs. Is their an easy way to remove them.
New User -
Its a dohc 3.4v6
-
Hi,
Just to be calm.Remove the spark plug boot by moving the boot left/right/several times and pull back.Then remove the spark plugs.
Good luck.
Best regards,
Peter
ps:Auto technician for over 30 years.
New User -
can this engine be tilted forward
-
Hi,
You can remove the front engine top mounts,I think they are two mounts.This way you can tilt forward enough to do the job.
Is this 3.4 litre engine?Be carefull with the spark plugs boots.
Regards,
Peter
I NEED ALL THE WEATHER STRIPPING FOR 1993 CUTLASS SUPREME FOR TOPP FRAME AND WINDOWS
Roger -
Hello, You do not have to post a fee to search for parts.
Write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and request a refund.
At the All Parts home page choose the link to search for parts. Many different suppliers will respond directly to you if they have what you request along with the price for their parts.
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
I have a 93 Cutlass Sup conv. The brake lights work fine, as well as tail lights. BUT, the turn signals will not work at all. The radio was replaced, so steering wheel control buttons do not work, but they also do not work for the climate control. I need my turn signals to pass PA inspection.
Roger -
Hello, First thing is to be sure all fuses are good.
Next, would be to check and see if any of the turn signal lights come on but do not flash. This would usually be due to a burned out bulb or two.
If no lights come on when a turn signal is activated....start by locating the turn signal flasher under the driver's side of the dash. It will be round in shape, often alluminium or yellow in color and have a single connector with two wires. One purple, and one dark blue.
When the flasher is located check to see if when the key is on and a turn signal has been turned on if there is power on one of the two wires of the connector. It won't matter if the flasher is still connected or not. Is there power there?
If power is there on only one of the wires but not the other (Flasher still connected to wire harness) replace the flasher.
The steering wheel would have to come off to inspect the cause of climate controls not working on the wheel. It could be a connector has come loose. Can't tell from outside.
Your thoughts?
Roger
New User -
Thx Roger... I located the problem after work today. I started playing with the turn signal switch, and to my discovery, the switch is worn out. If I move the switch only about half way, the signals work on the right side, but still not on the left. I was able to locate the part to replace ($99.99 @ AutoZone), now I have to tear down my steering column to fix the issue. Luckily, it isn't a steel tube, it's just a plastic enclosure around the column, brackets, etc...
I've never heard of one going bad on such a newer vehicle, but I suppose anything is possible. Thank you so much for your quick response. And if anyone else has a problem with this particular model, the flasher/turn signal relay is located under the glove box toward the bottom... easily accessable by removing a few screws from the plastic panel underneath. Also, this model has 3 fuse boxes... 2 under the hood, one below the glove box (access by pulling the glove box out). A few other notes: purchase an after-market alternater with higher amps before installing an 800w amp for the stereo; replace any heat shields removed after working under the hood, for they also work as shields against water flying up under the hood and damaging elec equip; these cars will run only so long on a battery with a dead cell, the alternater is not able to keep the vehicle running alone for more than a few minutes... if it goes dead with no apperent cause while driving down the road, have the battery checked, it prob isn't holding a charge... and it will NOT give you forewarning. The only thing the cars knows is that it is charging, it does NOT know that the battery is bad.
Thanks again for your assistance.
Jimbo
Roger -
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Roger
Roger -
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My son's car won't start. Usually in cold weather. Starter appears to be OK. Battery is fully charged. When turning key, amp meter shows 14, then drops to zero when trying to turn engine over. Starter engages, but no firing from cylinders.
macconeck -
If the voltage drops to zero then that is a sure indication of a shorting starter.
It has bad windings and is drawing too many amps on engagement , you will only need to replace the starter and solenoid and you should be on your way free of that problem.
I have a CA model 1993 Olds. Cutlass Supreme "S" with 3.1 L V-6 MFI, 4 speed (At), Vin "T", NO Tach. I need to know how to remove the 24X CKP sensor @ the harmonic balancer w/o cutting the wires (connector ends seem to large to push through opening), as it is a TIGHT fit and it seems only the wire will fit through. I loosened the A/C Comp. mounting bolts and moved it out of the way, but this doesn't seem to be enough. Do i cut this and then reroute the new one?
New User -
Please be specific and include pictures if possible. thanks!
Douglas -
Have you removed the harmonic balancer?
Are having difficulty removing the sensor or unplugging the sensor?"
New User -
I've removed the harmonic balancer. The problem is where the wire feeds between the metal "V" bracket at bottom of motor? that connects the engine and runs upward through that.
Here's a link to a picture (let me know if you get the picture):
difficulty removing sensor. seems opening is just too small to slide sensor out w/o cutting it and i'm thinking i'd have to cut the new one and feed mechanics wire and connect old to pull through. NObody has answered me on this....it is a California car.
I hate cutting wires on new parts, although it may be the fastest way. I recommend unbolting the bracket it goes behind. Sometimes if you can remove a bolt or two, you can pry/bend the bracket enough to slip the wire through. Just make sure you bolt everything back again!
I hate cutting wires because of moisture and oil getting into the harness. Replace everything back as original, because it protects the wires from damage.
New User -
Thanks Sterling. I found another route at the bottom of the bracket...took a little wiggling, but now it's in. The 1.5mm pitch bolt (longer than original for installation purposes of balancer) i bought doesn't want to thread into the center of the crank so i can torque it in...maybe one of the bolts in my puller kit will install it?
Sterlingfixer -
Does the old bolt thread in freely? Do the threads of the new and old bolts match? The diameter?
If you have the right bolt in your puller kit, that will be fine. We do NOT want to damage the threads inside the crankshaft!
I sometimes use a brass hammer to tap the pulley on far enough for the proper bolt to catch and pull it the rest of the way.
New User -
I've fixed the problem...seems i didn't use the bowl that goes on the puller center bolt and might have flattened the first few threads. found the threads to be 12 X 1.5mm. cleaned up the threads with a tap and improvised with with a 1/4" long extension and socket to fit tap w/ a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter to slowly tap in and out into place w/ tapping fluid. Now the bolt threads right in. I found that i NEED the installer tool, so i don't strip the threads. Been doing that and about
Erratic Idleing. The Idle will ramp from around 900 to 1700 rpm. There is gas build up in the air cleaner tube to the throttle body. Check engine code doesn't appear for about 15 Mins than gets a exhaust heavy code (46). Car is flooding out.
Sterlingfixer -
Look first for a leaking fuel injector, or a ruptured diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator (allows fuel to be sucked in the connected vacuum hose). If these are OK, look for low compression on any or all cylinders.
New User -
Thanks for the help. It was the fuel pressure regulator.
1992 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME 3.1L AUTOMATIC TRANS. CAR STALLS UPON ACCELERATION ONLY WHEN ENGINE IS COLD THIS IS AFTER INITIAL START UNTIL IT REACHES 75% OF OPERATING TEMPERTURE. TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE, FROM A STOP WHEN GAS PEDAL IS PRESSED THERE IS A HESITATION LIKE A FLAT SPOT AND THEN ACCELLERATION. THE QUICKER THE GAS IS PRESSED THE GREATER THE HESITATION. TOO QUICK AND THE ENGINE WILL STALL. THERE HASN'T BEEN ANY PROBLEM RE-STARTING AFTER ENGINE STALLS. DIDN'T GET ANY DIAGNOSTIC CODES WHEN CHECKED. THERE ARE NO PROBLEMS AFTER ENGINE IS WARMED UP.
kaptnzog -
There could be a few things you can look for. A faulty TPS sensor or circut, air temp sensor, air intake leak and possible dirty throttle plate to name a few.
Sometimes the car will start just fine. Sometimes when the ignition is engaged to start the car, one of the jumbo fuses in the front left right corner electrical fuse box will blow. The car won't turn over and you can stand there and watch the fuse blow. What is causing this.
Roger -
Hello, Will you please identify which fuse it is that blows? What is the amp rating?
This may be due to the starter drawing too many amps to turn or a short in the starter internal windings.
I'd like to look for the correct wiring schematic for this fuse to see the whole circuit and review it. Then I could make an informed suggestion.
Thanks,
Roger
James -
My daughter lost the cover to this box. It is the the fuse box behind the right headlight(s). It is the fusible link on the left side in the second row from the front of the car. It is a 60 amp fusible link.
Roger -
Thank you. I'll do some research and get back to you tonight is possible.
Roger
Roger -
The Mitchell 1 Data Base has drawings of two different Passenger Side Electrical Centers. Each is labeled as "typical" and I am not certain which is in your car.
So, what I'd like to do is email these drawings to you and when you see the one that is in your car you will have a legend for the contents of the box.
May I please have your email address?
I'm still thinking the starter is the problem.
Roger
Roger -
Have you received my reply? May I have your email address? I'd like to help you
Roger
James -
I had the starter tested. works perfect. Now I have no power at all to the car. Nothing, nada nothing. No lights, no bells no whistles. Battery is hot. I have some slight residual ohms from hot to ground (with out battery installed) [redacted]
Roger -
Have you disconnected the battery cables? Can you remove the side post attaching bolt from the positive cable end and slide the red rubber shield off to expose the cable end? If not, I suggest looking to see if you have two positive cables that connect to the battery.
If you do then one of them has a lead spacer that can be pried out and could reveal hidden corrosion. This can cause enough resistance to render the electrical connection defeated.
1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
I have a '92 Cutlass Supreme 3.1L with loose wiring connections feeding the instrument cluster leading to LED display problems. I am fixing these. In the mean time, I have picked up a cluster from a '91 Cutlass Supreme. This one also features LED gages instead of warning lights. I have picked up new sensors and senders to deal with this issue. Is there anything I am missing, ...? perhaps PCM or ECM issues?
Bruce Kit -
I would not change them! Even though you are on the right track with new sensors etc
the LED systems are very trouble prone.
PCM ECM should be the same.
New User -
Thank You for your response.
I realize that the GM LED cluster displays from that time period are very trouble prone pieces of junk. I am trying / hoping to find a display that is still functioning properly. The original display actually can perform flawlessly for a few seconds or a few hours but then the odometer starts to flicker, then spit out gibberish, then shut down all three LED display cards. Anything can trigger these conditions on or off. Shutting the car off and then back on, hitting a bump in the road, slightly realigning the harness leading up to the terminator block on the top of the instrument cluster, or adjusting the mounting tension on the complete panel, all these factors, and more, will affect the performance, good or bad, of the LEDs.
I have:
-Completely disassembled, cleaned, adjusted the individual tension of each female pin receiver,
-Checked the continuity of each pin to its pathway on the circuit board,
-Stripped off the gooey electrical tape and its oozing residue on the harness leading up to the connector block,
-Dry secured the harness to take tension off of its torque on the back of the circuit board,
-Strengthened the alignment inserts in the block to better hold the female receivers in line with their respective male mates,
-Confirmed positive general power supply and ground to the board as well as proper connection and info from the Vehicle Speed Sensor...
I do not trust the cluster dimmer switch. I have tried another (used) switch and have attempted to bypass that feature but there are about four intersections that have to be avoided and either I got it wrong and learned nothing or I got it right and need to trace that path further, forward or back. Which ever the case, I was able to produce no voltage (battery connected, ignition switch initially turned to on and then engine running), or continuity (battery ground disconnected, ignition switch turned to on, continuity tested from ground to various, but not all, "hot" stops along its pathway before and after the switch).
I believe that a key capacitor (aluminum electrolytic, axial, 330uF 50V) feeding the chain of LED boards is going bad. I have removed it from the board and tested it. It performs but weakly so. It is a two dollar part but the only place I can find them is wholesale on line, so I could buy 8 or ten of them and share the rest with my friends! There are three LEDs and the odometer is the first in line for the feed from this capacitor and the LED driver.
I have looked at many angles and have not tested them all yet. One thing I know for sure is that the Electrical Tape that General Motors used during this period of the '90's has not dried out and turned brittle like the tape of years past. Instead it has turned into a living, migrating ooze that has invaded countless harness connectors and disabled or burned out the parts of an infinite number of "Made in America" cars.
As far as your reply to my initial query. Thank you, yes my key concern is how well the ECM and PCM would get along with a different member in the family of computers on board. The Harness Connector pins on the '91 are in a completely different pattern from the '92. My current theory is to use a 25 pin D-sub computer connector with the female half, hard-wired to the '92 harness and the male half, hard-wired to a short harness hard-wired to the '91 instrument cluster. This allows for a modular connection where the two halves are screwed together, shielded, and free-floating. This relieves the torque imposed on the connectors by the nature of the GM Design.
I am wide open to suggestions positive or negative, except for the possible "Why spend so much effort on an old piece of junk?". I just totaled my wonderful Subaru. I have the money for another car. However, I have this old junker available. It runs great. My girlfriend won't drive it because she's tired of it's electrical issues. And, it's about time I learned my way around the computer side of cars. So this one is great practice.
Thank You
Bruce Kit -
Your óld' Olds is probably a nice car (I prefer older ones)Possibly a Collector car in future.Check frame rails esp at rear, for a ferrous oxide tan (rust)but if it were mine I'd consider converting to Analog guages! You seem to be taking the correct steps. You might want to check for rebuilders of these units.Years ago GM had a shop in Calgary Alberta Canada that rebuit those dash parts including Vette ones...
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
Three problems:
1) The remotes for the doors and trunk locks were a chore to get to work, had to press button on remote many times to get it to work, but now it doesn't work at all
2) The dash and radio display will light up, but the display for the heater & AC only work sometimes, we replaced the headlight switch but the problem persists. Sometimes to read the heater display, we have to dim the other dash displays. Problem is intermitent.
3) The brake lights and the chime are on the same fuse. But when we step on the brake, the fuse blows. It won't for the chime. We replaced all the bulbs, and checked all connections. We even unplugged all the rear lights, and the fuse still blows. I'm getting weary of buying 15 amp fuses.
Your help is appreciated.
Les -
Hi:
This is not going to be a ride in the park. Sounds like you have a wire shorting out. Best bet is to get a good wiring schematic. I can help you a little bit, but without been there you are going to have to be my eyes. Try disconnecting the brake switch and see if the fuse blows. If not chase the wires back to the fuse box and make sure none and making a bad connection. Also check all grounds and make sure all are making good connection. Good Luck Les.
New User -
Where is the remote sensor for the keyless entry?
Les -
Hi;
It should be located on the drivers side. It should be a black box. Depending on the opyions they located them differently. Good Luck Les.
New User -
There's a whole lot of drivers side between the bumpers.
Les -
Hi;
Appreantly you are not looking in the right spot. Under the steering coluum and next to the fuse fox. Looks the you are looking at the whole side of the car, Thanks Les,.
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Heating / Cooling System When driving Always
New User Asked -
When driving this car, we are no getting any internal heat, we have replaced the heater core, thermostat, and the water pump, but still there is no heat, what next?
Douglas -
Feel the hoses to the heater core. Are they getting hot (with warm engine)?
New User -
The hoses are hot going in to the heater core and also comming out
Douglas -
Check the blend air door.
New User -
all of the actuators are operating normal, as temp is adjusted on the control, the actuator opens and closes the door as normal.
Douglas -
Is there heat at anytime... idling?
New User -
After about a half hour of driving there is a small amount of heat. At idle there is no noticeable heat.
Douglas -
If all actuators are working this leaves a problem with circulation. Check for proper coolant circulation in the radiator (with a cold engine remove the radiator cap and observe coolant flow as engine is allowed to reach operating temperature). What happens?
By the way, you are certain that the coolant level is full and free of air?
New User -
I think we figured this out. We gained access to mitchell on demand and we looked at some diagrams. Near the heater core there were 3 gaskets missing, allowing cold air to go through in to the passenger compartment. Thanks for your help!
Douglas -
Hopefully this is your problem. Let me know how it turns out. Is this your first experience with this car in cold weather? It is odd that gaskets are missing.
Also, clear the codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute or so. Reconnect and start the engine. Shut the engine off and recheck error codes. Which ones, if any, come right back?
If none are found, rev the engine for a bit and recheck. We want to find which trouble codes come back first.
New User -
I have cleared the computer. Have started it up two or three times. Bad hesitation at start.
Douglas -
Do all of these codes come back immediately?
If all these codes set at the same time you may have a computer problem (especially if they all appeared at once). If the car has been neglected for a long time it is possible for all/most of those things to fail.
New User -
No codes came back. Have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump relay. Blows ECM fuse. Acts like it is starving for fuel.
Douglas -
How quickly is it blowing the ECM fuse? The problem here is what needs to be addressed.
New User -
About 10 minutes after starting the car it blows the ECM fuse. We are trying to replace the oxegen censor. having a hard time getting it low enough to install.
Douglas -
The oxygen sensor is not likely to be the problem, but do thoroughly inpsect the wiring to the sensor to make sure it is not shorting out. It is not a waste to replace the sensor though, it is probably worn out anyway.
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Hello, my car has a electrical problem. Sometimes when i hit the brakes my brake lights do not come on but some other times one would work or the other would work etc... and the indicator lights only work when i pull the light switch then push either up or down to indicate turn, the driver side power window goes up and down when it wants to, and most recently there has been an issue with battery life, i just recently purchased a new battery, the alternator and starter have been tested and are ok, but there would be no power going to the battery. Here's this particular siuation in detail, I picked my car up from the shop to get a new battery and fix the rear control arm, picked it up, drove home and parked it and then i went to work. When i came home and tried to start the car, it didnt start! no power no clicking, no anything! but note the car has been sitting for a year but before it was sitting it drove very well. help please!
Douglas -
Start by throughly inpsecting the battery terminals. Also clean the other ends of the cables, including body grounds. Inspect wiring for rub, burn, and rodent damage.
If there is no improvement after this, the problem may be with the multifunction switch.
As for the battery running down, something is on when it not supposed to be. Try checking the trunk, hood, and glove box lights as these are less obvious then say the dome light, etc.
For now, start with the first paragraph and give me an update.
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Heating / Cooling System
New User Asked -
No heat when it gets cold, changed radiator, thermostat, heater core, temp door actuator, wired up temp door to stay on full hot, took car to gm they said there's no air lock, gm thinks control head is gone , but if temp door is wired open would it really help?
Sterlingfixer -
Do you have heat with the door open? If still no heat, the issue is NOT the control head. Wiring the door open will not hurt anything, except it might get quite hot in the summer.
New User -
still no heat or very little, and when its like -20 its cold air, and not worried about summer
Douglas -
You need to feel both heater core hoses at this point. Are both hot?
Has the coolant been tested to ensure it is not freezing at low temperatures?
Is the engine coolant getting to proper temperature? You could have a defective thermostat, wouldn't be the first time.
What about the water pump, if the impellers wear enough you won't get the circulation needed to push the coolant through the heater core.
Douglas -
Also, I was assuming you don't have a problem with air flow (plenty of air just cold). As A/C debris, etc are know to plug up the heater causing poor air flow.
New User -
air flow is good , the car wont over heat, and i have the rad completly blocked off with card board, so i assume the water pump is good, and i put a 196' thermo in there so the car does run warm, but wont over heat, some guy at the auto wreckers said something about aa vacuum port below the glove box, the might be faulty,
Douglas -
It is possible to not overheat but have insufficient output from the water pump.
Are both heater core hoses getting hot when the engine is at operating temp?
New User -
when i took the car to gereral motors, they said both of the hoses were gettting hot , then they said my temp door actuator was toast and charged me to fix it, but i still have the same problem, i havent checked myself since i changed the heater core last week, i have to pull off the intake again to get at them
Douglas -
They should have a guarantee on their work. Did you consult them about rechecking their work?
You should be able to warm the engine, then shut off, and get to the hoses at some point without disassembly. This is the first thing that needs to be checked at this point. We need to confirm hot coolant is flowing freely through the heater core.
1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes
New User Asked -
Does not start or crank the motor.
New User -
Battery looks good, other electrical devices work. Hear a clicking noise under dash, glove box area.
Bad Relay or Solenoid?
Gro -
Yes sounds like it, have starter tested or test starter. also make sure all wires are clean and tightly connected
New User -
Where is the starter located on this vehicle?
What relay is under the dash?
Gro -
glove box area contains fuse box? is that correct? Also the engine control computer should be in that area but under hood near strut tower, There is a relay box near the ECC. Which engine do you have in your car?
Starter location , removal etc differs just a bit, depending on engine size.
New User -
It is a 3.1 L V6.
New User -
Yes there is a fuse box under the glove box. I should check the relays under the hood.
Gro -
ok kind of a hard one, the starter is located under the flywheel cover. airconditioner compressor. I can give you details about removal proceedures if needed.
The battery is fully charged correct?
New User -
Yes the battery is fully charged. It reads 12.5 volts. I have a charger on it now, but I just charged it the other day.
I need the starter removal procedure, in case that it is the starter.
Gro -
Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If equipped with an engine oil cooler, drain the engine oil, remove the oil filter and position the hose next to the starter motor to the side.
Remove the nut from the brace at the air conditioning compressor, nut from the brace at the engine and the brace.
Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the flywheel inspection cover.
Remove the starter bolts and shims, if equipped. Do not let the starter hang from the starter wires.
Detach the starter wires from the solenoid, then remove the starter from the vehicle.
To install:
While supporting the starter, connect the starter wires at the solenoid.
Install the starter motor-to-engine mount with the shims, if equipped, and the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
If equipped with an engine oil cooler, reposition the hose next to the starter motor, install the oil filter and refill the engine with the proper amount of engine oil.
Install the flywheel inspection cover and tighten the bolts.
Install the starter support brace to the air conditioning compressor and tighten the nut to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
Install the air cleaner and duct assembly.
(consider each line a step) there are illustrations which I will be happy to provide just send an email to [redacted]
1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Fuel System Malfunction When accelerating Always
Asked -
The car starts and idles fine, but dies when you try to accelerate, but restarts immediatly. It was low on fuel, but I added 5 gallons, and it made no difference. It surges when I race it in neutral. I suspect a bad fuel filter. Where is the fuel filter on this car?
Gro -
should be located near drivers side rear wheel well, Fuel pump should be in gas tank, with a screen filter on it also. Which are prone to get dirty and plugged.
Another problem you might have , is a dirty MAF (mass air flow),or a bad TCC (TCS) Transmission control computer (transmission control solenoid) both of which would duplicate the problem described. Have or check the trouble codes.
Gro -
Under vehicle, driver side, below seating area, near fuel tank, mounted on frame rail in fuel line
1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Fuel System Stalling When accelerating Always
New User Asked -
The car starts and idles fine, but stalls when accelerating and surges when racing the motor in neutral. It was low on fuel and I added 5 gallons, but no help. It ran fine until recently, but started doing this slowly at first.
Where is the fuel filter on this vehicle. It is a 3.1L V6 motor.
Gro -
Under vehicle, driver side, below seating area, near fuel tank, mounted on frame rail in fuel line
New User -
Is the fuel filter a likly cause of this problem?
Gro -
It can be, Also can be caused by the injectors , the MAF (MAP) Mass air flow, sensor could be failing or the unit itself could be dirty, sometimes oddly enough filled with cobwebs! Another and probable cause is the VSS or TCC (vehicle speed sensor, or transmission control computer) To check for this have the car read for trouble codes, or look on top of your transmission, there should be an rather large electrical connector , I believe on drivers side, unhook this and run car, to see if the problem still occurs, Check engine light will either stay on or fluctuate on and off.
New User -
I replaced the fuel filter, no improvement. i tried to read the codes, but my code reader is OBDII, and is not compatible.
I disconnected a large round connector in the transmission, but it didn't help.
The surging problem occurs in neutral as well as in gear. It also starts to die, like it is lean when you press on the pedal.
Is this a bad MAP sensor?
it doesn't have a MAF.
Gro -
Yes very likely,
before spending money call around to local auto parts store and find out if any read codes for free in your area, to pinpoint problem before spending money on a new sensor.
New User -
I checked at my local parts store and they said that there will not be any codes stored if the 'Service Engine Soon" light is not on. This light only come on at start-up. It is out other times.
I replaced the IAC valve, with no improvement. The only things left are the TPS and fuel pump itself.
Gro -
Heres what I suggest,
check for trouble codes ANYWAY using this method...
The ALDL diagnostic connector is located in the passenger compartment, and are labled
F E D C B A (top row)
G H M (bottom row)
A is the ground
B is the diagnostic terminal
ground terminals a and b together using a suitable gauge wire with or without alligator clips (for easier connection) with ignition key on, the service engine light will flash 12, A 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes in rapid succession.(long flashs=tens short flashes= ones)
After 12 is displayed, any stored trouble s will be displayed by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE" light
All codes are displayed 3 times each then a 12 will repeat. In the diagnostic mode, the computer will also energize all computer controlled relays and solenoids.
trouble codes are:
13 Open Oxygen Sensor Circuit
14 Coolant Temperature Sensor (High Temp Indicated)
15 Coolant Temperature Sensor (Low Temp Indicated)
21 Throttle Position Sensor (Signal Voltage High)
22 Throttle Position Sensor (Signal Voltage Low)
23 Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) Low Temp Indicated
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit
25 Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) High Temp Indicated
32 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Circuit
33 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit (High Sig.)
34 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit (Low Sig.)
35 Idle Speed Control (ISC) Circuit
41 Cylinder Select Error (Faulty or Incorrect Mem-Cal)
42 Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Circuit
43 Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Circuit
44 Oxygen Sensor Circuit (Lean Exhaust Indicated)
45 Oxygen Sensor Circuit (Rich Exhaust Indicated)
51 Mem-Cal Error
53 System Voltage
54 Fuel Pump Circuit (Low Voltage)
55 ECM Errors
61 Degraded Oxygen Sensor
If you find there are no codes, replace fuel pump, before replacing the TPS
New User -
There are no stored codes.
Can I check the fuel pressure?
How do I replace the fuel pump?
Gro -
Testing fuel pressure two ways,first pressure coming from pump, remove fuel line connection before fuel filter, hook up a Vacuum & Fuel Pump Pressure Tester, Turn ignition switch on and check results.
The Fuel injection system has a connection on lines for testing pressure, find this connection (usually has a cap protecting threads) hook up the Pressure tester and turn ignition on or start car, for a few seconds to get a reading.
The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank,
Replacing it can be quite a job without proper equipment. Fuel tank must be drained, and removed, Loosening filler hose, and vent hose,Fuel lines and connecting wires. Loosen and remove straps slowly and carefully while tank is held in place with a jack or suitable and safe stand. The pump is located on the top of the tank. With a locking ring that holds it in. All parts should be cleaned thoroughly before removing fuel pump,and then again after it is removed. Fuel pump and inner fuel filter should be replaced.
Gro -
One more thing, a bad fuel pressure regulator can be mistaken for a bad fuel pump, so check fuel pressure.
Here are pressure readings you should attain,
Key on, engine running...
Fuel System Pressure 30-44 PSI(Pounds per Square Inch)
Key on Engine OFF..
Fuel System Pressure 30-44 PSI(Pounds per Square Inch)
New User -
Key On Engine Off:
Fuel Pressure is 42 psi.
Key on Engine Running:
Fuel Pressure drops to about 37 psi and bouncing.
Upon pressing the Accelerator, the fuel pressure goes as high as 50 psi. Engine dies and surges as fuel pressure changes.
I think that the fuel pressure regulator is defective.
What do I need to do to replace the Fuel Pressure regulator?
Gro -
Fuel pressure regulator , in your cars case called a fuel injection Pressure regulator, is located on the fuel injection rails. Disconnect negative battery cable, release fuel pressure, The part should have two fittings, and a vaccuum line that need to be removed to replace. About 90-140 dollars.
To find it , look for a dome with a small line coming out, and two connections hooked into the fuel injection rails. Possibly black dome, sitting on a silver/aluminum colored block, with two fittings coming out of it.
Gro -
Fuel pressure tested at fuel injection would determine if Regulator was bad, if tested between filter and fuel pump, this would indicate your Fuel pump is failing.
New User -
I have replaced everything in the fuel system, but the pump itself.
How do I remove the pump?
Gro -
Remove fuel tank as described before * use a siphon pump if available to drain all fuel that you can remove.
Clean top of tank with compressed air if available, (greasy dirt, sand and rocks usually accumulate here) clean the locking ring as thoroughly as possible, then use a rubber or wooden mallet and pound the locking ring loose.
*
"The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank,
Replacing it can be quite a job without proper equipment. Fuel tank must be drained, and removed, Loosening filler hose, and vent hose,Fuel lines and connecting wires. Loosen and remove straps slowly and carefully while tank is held in place with a jack or suitable and safe stand. The pump is located on the top of the tank. With a locking ring that holds it in. All parts should be cleaned thoroughly before removing fuel pump,and then again after it is removed. Fuel pump and inner fuel filter should be replaced."
I have a 1990 Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L V6. I have been having a lot of trouble with it. I have replaced most of the fuel system, including the MAP sensor.
The engine starts to die as you open the throttle even in neutral. I have found that there is only 2.0 volts at the MAP sensor.
Is my ECM bad? I get codes 12 and 35 from the OBD1 diagnostics.
Also the fuel pressure leaks down fast when you first try to start, but then is better later. I have already replaced the Fuel Pressure regulator.
Bruce Kit -
If you have low vacuum at the MAP senser, you will get low voltage.Carefully ceck for vac leaks.MAP senser might be leaking internally also.
Code 12, I believe is related to O2 sensor, check wire to it, at rear of engine.Wire goes to drivers side of engine, where you will find the plug for the harness, below the EGR valve.
New User -
Code 12 means the Diagnostic Terminal is grounded. I grounded it to read the Codes. Code 35 means an Idle Speed error occured.
I measured the output from Pin C12 on the ECU with the TPS and MAP sensor connected(key on engine off). It was 1.88 Volts. I measured it again with the MAP sensor and TPS disconnected. It was 2.00 Volts. My books all say that it should be 5.0 volts Reference.
My MAF output doesn't change between High Vacuum(idle) and Low Vacuum (Key on, engine off). My books say 4.0 volts KOEF, and 0.5 Volts to 1.5 Volts with engine at idle. I can feel some vacuum at the end of the vacuum line with the engine at idle.
Please verify that Pin C12 on the ECU Gray connector should be 5.0 Volts, and not 2.0 Volts.
Bruce Kit -
Yes pin 12 should have a reference voltage of 5 volts,if yours has only 2V we can assume there is an ECU problem.
New User -
I have disconnected the TPS and MAP and verified that it is only 2 Volts.
Now can I disconnect the gray 'C' connector and power the ECU to make sure that there is not a short in the harness?
Will the ECU operate with the 'C' connector disconnected?
Bruce Kit -
ECU will run, but not properly.Are there any used ones avail at autowrecker?
New User -
I removed the 'C' connector and powered the ECM. Pin C12 measures 5 Volts. When I reconnect the 'C' connector pin C12 is 2.00 Volts with all loads unplugged. I checked my wiring diagram and found that the Coolant Level Sensor is also connected to the 5 Volt Reference, but through pin C16. When I disconnect the Coolant Level Sensor, the 5 Volt reference reads 5.0 Volts.
However the engine still surges when rev'ed.
Is there any way to test the ECM?
New User -
The fuel pressure goes to 40 psi with KOEF. The when the motor starts and pulls vacuum the fuel pressure drops to about 37 psi. When I rev the motor, the fuel pressure climbs slightly, but spikes back up to 40 psi when it surges.
Could this be a vacuum leak from the canister? EGR valve?
Bruce Kit -
Egr valve is electronic, and should have set a code.
Poss fuel press regulator sticking.
New User -
I believe that the surge occurs when the EGR valve opens. It could be leaking manifold vacuum at that time.
How do I disconnect the harness from the EGR valve?
If I disable the EGR and the problem stops, then I will R&R the EGR valve and/or gasket.
New User -
I disconnected the EGR and the same problem occurred.
I have disassembled the Fuel pressure Regulator and foung some damaged 'O' rings. I will replace those and try again.
Bruce Kit -
Sounds like you are on the right track!
New User -
I got it all reassembled. It starts and runs good, but there is a shudder while cruising at light throttle.
Is this Fuel Injectors?
Bruce Kit -
Might be some contamination in injectors. Running a good quality inj cleaner cannot hurt
Car runs fine and idles fine until it warms up, then it idles fine but if you give it gas at 1800 rpm the engine cuts out. It will then not restart until the engine cools down. We have replaced the coil, wires, plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, and ran a fuel induction cleaning. What is going on? Where do we turn next?
Thanks,
Dennis
Bruce Kit -
May want to have it scanned for codes...most shops/parts places will do free or for small $$. If I had to hazard a guess I would say CRS (coolant temp sensor) or crank position sensor. The latter is at rear lower part of the engine and tough to acess!
Douglas -
Time for some testing.
Does the 'check engine' light come on when you turn the Key On (as it normally does) during the no-start period? This indicates the car's computer is powered up. While critical I'll assume it does. If it does not let me know.
Now check for spark to the plugs during the no-start period. Do you have spark?
Also, do you hear the fuel pump prime during initial Key ON and during engine cranking? Lack of spark and fuel pump operation may indicate a bad crank sensor which is unlikely to set a trouble code on these cars.
Which engine in your car?
Have you checked for diagnostic codes? If you need instructions I'll give them, all you need is a paper clip or small wire to retrieve trouble codes on these cars.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Fuel System Chugging When idling Always
New User Asked -
I just recently degreased my car and I shot it off with water, I didnt cover none of my major components. Could this be a factor, it was running well before I shot it with water. I must have flooded something.
Roger -
5-13-03.
Hello, Have you removed the distributor cap and looked for moisture? Can you see water standing around the spark plugs?
Frequently, when water is sprayed across a distributor, condensation forms inside and the spark goes anywhere it wants instead of to the spark plug terminals in correct firing sequence. Drying out the cap will put things back as they were.
Water standing around spark plugs can be soaked-up with a rag, or, will evaporate when the engine starts after drying out the dist. cap.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
i hooked up 1 12in woofer&1000 watt amp in my trunk correctly.shortly after fuses started burning out tail,turn,stop. then while driving &using ciggaret lighter on dash my new head unit quit working and lighter. my radio fuse is good
heavychevy -
Hello
How did you hook up the power to your amp so when you turn the key it comes on?
Heavychevy
heavychevy -
,,
Bruce Kit -
Get a test light and test the circuits at the ignition swirch and all the fuse block terminals.
If you hooked the amp main power wire to a fused terminal, then you might have damaged either the ignition switch or the fuse panel. The amp should be wired directly to the battery with the switched power at the fusebox. You might also check the conection at the back of the fuse box .Its under the power brake booster (under the hood). You will require a 10mm socket to remove the screw in the center of the plug.
1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
THE car starts but the voltage never increase more than 8 volts. I have a new battery and alternator but if leave the battery connected for a few days it will die. im tring to trace the power shortage
Roger -
Hello, Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable connection. Connect an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable end and the negative post of the battery. No more than 35 mili-amps is allowed for parasitic drain on the battery.
You might want to disconnect any recently added after market equipment that was added (if any). Then you can pull fuses one at a time until you identify the excessive drain has stopped.
Next discover what components are protected by the fuse you last pulled that resulted in the drop in drain on the battery. Check/disconnect those items to further isolate the drain.
i have a 1984 307 cutlass. when i use to start it, it would idle high until it warmed up. now it idles high all the time and when i try to shut the car off, it doesnt want to quit for about 30 sec.. it just sputters until it eventually shuts off. help
Bruce Kit -
Sounds like choke is not working on the carb.After trip, remove air cleaner top, see if closed.Easy to replace.
Also see if vac advance on distributer works.
Hello, my name is Don, I own a 1984 Cutlass Supreme sedan, recently I had the motor rebuilt and they bored it .030 over (which they say it is a 3.8L engine now). I had replaced the carburetor on it about a year ago and after the Engine was back together and in the car the fellow that was going to adjust the carb and set everything said that the tpi in the carb was bad. So I returned it to the parts place for a replacement carb and took it back to him. It turns out after dipping into my pocket a couple times he wont work on my car, much less return my calls( which suits me fine).
I have a V6 engine, 2 barrel carb with tpi and electronic choke. A friend from my local VFW came over one evening and backed the choke off enough for the car to run, but it is still rough and dies when driving it. I thought that the thermostat was sticking and that the car might be over heating, even though I had not receaved an idot light as yet. That didn't solve anything, I need professional help but most of the repair shops are shying away from carbs and work exclusively on EFI only.
I Don't know what else to do I've thought of running the air and fuel screws in and back them out to preset amounts but I don't know what that is, I don't know how to adjust the choke, and just what the heck is tpi anyway?
I am competent in the garage, though I have had to learn every thing by doing and asking questions my Dad worked all the time when I was growing up, by every chance he worked on a car I was right there. It wasn't much but it got me started, Without more knowledge I don't feel comfortable messing with a carb I've seen them back fire to many times to wont to burn my car up. Thanks for lessoning. Don Stephens.
Bruce Kit -
Don? You need an olg guy mechanic? There used to be a time when no one wanted to work on injected cars!
The air/fuel mixture sctews are usually set all the way in then 1 1/2 turns out.Thats a 'ballpark' setting to get it started.
Find a vacuum guage an hook to intake port( not carb)Adjust carb to highest vac, reading.Reset idle speed.If no vac. guage avail. you can set carb by turning the screws in untill it runs rougher, then back it out about a quarter turn.Vacuum guage better.And it can be used to set timing, again you are looking for the highest reading.
Rough idle can also be caused by sticking or leaking egr valve.
Also check the vac advance on the distributer.You would be suprised how many are leaking or stuck.
Hope this gives you some sucess.
Also a good idea is to have a Haynes Shop Manual on hand.You will find that it is the best $15 you spent, the first time you use it!
Have fun!
Bruce (an old guy mechanic)
New User -
Thanks Bruce ( Old Guy ),
I just printed this out and will give it a whirl, thanks for the quik response. Will let you know what happens. Don.
Bruce Kit -
A vac guage used to be an essential tool in the tool box, as it can tell you many things about your motor
New User -
It's a shame that you guys can't include drawings or pictures with arrows to kind of point out some things. Like where to connect the hoses , and do I adjust the air and then the fuel inthe same manner. You mentioned the vacume advance, my son told me that the distributer doesn't have it on it, I would give you more first hand seeing if and when I can, but I hurt my back and am not getting around real good.
When I can find the vacume gauge( I remeber buying one) I will atemp to use it, but I could use a little more idea where to connect it, as my son was the one using it all the other times, and now old dad is in need of useing it since he is haveing some trouble comming over to help. This is new ground for me but it looks like there is no hope other wise.
One other thing, I am not sure of the location of the EGR valve. I will look for the book also while I'm looking for the gauge.
Bruce Kit -
Egr valve on drivers side of intake .
Hook vac guage to any port on intake.Rear of carb, there should be a Vac T that should work.2nd best choice is at bottom of carb,(anything higher up on carb, is ported vacuum, and will give poor reading, if any).
If there is no vac advance on dist, that means you have a feedback carb which has several wires going to it (and a whole new can of worms!)
my 1984 cutlass supreme runs good, but when it drives over a bump,hole,or uneven streets it shakes and steering wheel gets stuck! also the check ingine light turns on and it seems like its going to seize??
Bruce Kit -
Seema like 2 unrelated problems. As the steering is a safety issue, you might want the front end checked over by a pro. Usually a quick inspection is free,
Might be a power steering pump or rack seizing up or?
Fix the steering first then we will look at the check engine light and the 'almost stalling' problem.
The car starts fine, it stays running while in park but once i shift it into gear it stops running unless i give it alot of gas. It is an automatic transmission, carbuerated V8.
It start fine and runs fine in park. It does not idle high or rough. Once i put it in gear it dies unless i give it alot of gas, it usually dies soon after though. My car is an automatic, carbeurated, V8.
Bruce Kit -
Check the choke operation on the carb.Does it open when the car warms up?
Remove the dist cap, check the operation of the vac advance.(apply vacuum to its hose, see if the base plate in dist moves.It should also hold its position, as long as the vacuum remains on.)The vacuum advance cannister commonly fails on HEI distributers
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
How do I install my new plug in convertible top switch in the dashboard? I can't seem to get my hand up in there behind it to ge the old one out. Does something drop down or something?
macconeck -
what engine do you have?
New User -
too late ... my appointment was for 2:00 and the website this morning said "get an answer in moments" but it didn't happen. I've got the 350 with the two barrel and it runss like a top. It took the guy at the Oldsdealer about an hour to put the switch in. He said the whole thing including the screws on the retainer clip had to be done by feel. He said it was "a good exercise" .... Thanks anyway ...dan
1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
My blinkers are out -- how do you change them?
Roger -
Hello, Will you please tell me more about the problem? Are the fuses good? Are all of the bulbs good?
Do the turn signals light but not blink or do nothing at all?
There is a flasher under the dash that may have failed. It is usually near the steering column or along the lower edge of the dash mounted on a clip. Cylindrical in shape about 1 1/4" in diameter and about 1" tall. It is often silver or yellow in color and has one electrical connector with two wires in the connector.
On a car in service this many years the flasher may not be where the factory placed it originally so look around for it.
Sometimes it is helpful to purchase the new flasher to have an example of what you are searching for.
If you find a flasher in the fuse box you have found the one most commonly associated with the four way flashers.....not the turn signals.
Roger
New User -
Hi Roger,
Thanks for replying to me....
When I first noticed the blinkers/flashers were out the lights would still light up but no blinking and now nothing happens at all-no lights. i think i have located the silver cylindrical flasher by the steering column--do you think that is what i need to replace? i didn't understand the part about the fuse--could it be that a fuse is out? Many thanks, Tanya
Roger -
If all of your fuses are good replace the flasher and that should do it. Give it a try.
This way to the live technicians