Plymouth Laser

1992 Plymouth Laser All Part Groups Malfunction When shifting Always

i had bought a part from the auto zone company for my car. it was just an automatic shifter knob for it and upon removing the original knob the o/d circuit was broken and now will not shift and only stays in third gear...which is horrible on acceleration and what not

It is probably stuck in second, this is called limp home mode. Is the check engine light on? You need to check trouble codes. Use the following link for a repair guide that'll offer instructions for retrieving codes-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Let me know which codes you find. BTW, I assume you repaired the damaged wiring.

well even when i shift it manually it doesn't come out or into either of them. This is a problem in a big city like where i'm from. I'm a fellow aprentice mechanic and know that it could be a possibility in the speed censors....but i wanted a full technicians opinion and i apreciate it. I am taking it into aamco as of tomarrow so i can get the codes read. but it's awkward since it doesn't shift in or out of gear.

Can you use the

Key On, Off, ON, Off, ON again and wait for the check engine light to flash codes- method on your car?

Are you saying it stays in forward gear even while in park, neutral, or reverse?

its all good now...thanks for the advice...but what happened is that the a/t fuse was blown to keep the transmission from shorting and put it into fail safe mode. all the guys at aamco and i had to do was replace a 10 watt fuse and now it works like new again....but thanks

1992 Plymouth Laser Fuel System   

I have a 1992 Laser RS, with 72000 miles. I have problems with the car starting, and sometime when driving the engine will bog dow like contaminated fuel, or the injectors are not delivering fuel to the engine. We had been driving the car, parked it one evening and it hasn't started since. I am getting a good spark thru the plugs, fuel to the fuel rail, but engine doesn't start. I also have compression. I purchased a noid light, and tried testing the injector pulse by cranking the engine, but get no indication that the system is working. What other test should I do, and what is the most probable cause?

The first thing to do is check for Key On power to the injectors. Do this with one end of a test light (or dc voltmeter) to a KNOWN GOOD GROUND and the other end to the injector connector. Do you have power?

I am getting 11to 12 volts between injector hasrness and ground on all 4 injectors.

Now check for diagnostic trouble codes. Turn the key ON, Off, On, Off, and On again (three times within five seconds) and the check engine light should begin to flash. The first set of flashes will be the 'tens' place and the second set will be the 'ones' place.

Example-

Flash Flash pause Flash Flash Flash

Will equal code 23.

Let me know which code numbers you find.

Also take ohm meter readings from each injector, make sure they are consistent and one is not shorted.

I do not get the flashing from check engine light after following procedure. The check engine light comes on briefly then goes off after the key is turned on the third time. I have done the ohms check on the injectors and they are satisfactory.

1991 Plymouth Laser Engine Stalling Happens sometimes No pattern

Hi, my 1991 laser has 153000 miles. I've replaced
the fuel filter , spark plugs, distributer cap & rotor button, air cleaner. I just had the injectors
serviced. The car runs great but occasionly stalls
at start up & idle. sometimes it starts right back
but other times it spins over but wont start.
I just put it in the shop and they can't find
anything. The computer ECM according to them is good
Please, if you have any info on this problem I'd greatly apreciate it. 1991 Plymouth Laser 1.8
Auto Trans

This is a common problem with the 90 - 94 DSM cars. I believe that your computer is failing and the reason your engine starts intermittently is due to the ECM directly controls the pulse signals to the fuel injectors. I would like you to go to a store like Auto Zone and purchase an injector test "noid". It plugs into the wire harness in place of a fuel injector. Test the pulse signal when the car will start (it twinkles quickly) and when the car will not start install the noid and test the engine again. This is the easiest way to verify or eliminate the ECM. A rebuilt ECM can cost 300.00 and we dont recommend just changing them. Give this a shot and we can go from there. Al

Thanks Al for your prompt response. Just wanna
clarify a couple of things. will installing the
noid fix my problem by bypassing the ECM also
how much should I expect to pay for the injection
test kit.
Thanks, Vinson

1991 Plymouth Laser Fuel System Won't Start When starting When cold

Is rhere a known problem with plymouth lasers not starting when the temperature gets below freezing

There are all kinds cars out there that have a problem starting in weather conditions that you state.Try installing an engine block warmer or an engine blanket.Just like us,as we get older,its' a little harder to get going in the mornings.Check with a local parts house or mechanic.Either one should be able to help you out.
Good Luck,
Paul

1991 Plymouth Laser Engine   

The car is a 1.8L automatic w/136K miles. The engine and transmission have both been rebuilt once. After the transmission was rebuilt, the car ran fine initially, but later began experiencing some vibration during all speeds and some hesitation and odd shifting after driving for appr. 5 minutes (sometimes longer on cold days). The vibration disappeared after the catalytic converter was replaced. The car still hesitates and shifts poorly after 5 minutes. It has particular difficulty downshifting when coming to a stop. It will shift hard and jerk. Also, the check engine light comes on, but when it does, the symptoms seem to become less noticeable. I've been told it might be the oxygen sensor or ECU. I checked the throttle position sensor...works like a charm. Any ideas?

Is the transmission still under warranty?

You need to check the trouble codes stored in the computer (ECU.)

Use the following link for trouble code retrieval-

http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/

Copy and Paste the link into your Address bar.

Let me know which codes you find.

I used the procedure suggested to retrieve the codes and no codes were outputted. The check engine light remained on for a couple seconds, then went out. When the check engine light comes on while the car is running, it does not stay on.

The transmission is no longer under warranty.

Did you turn the key on and off (just to the point the dash warning light come on) three times within five seconds? Try again, if it doesn't work you may have to use a scanner to check the codes. Some chain auto parts stores will read the codes free, call ahead to see if they can read the codes on your car (AutoZone, Parts America, etc.)

No luck on the second try. I'll try Autozone for a scanner. In the mean time, do you have any other ideas that I could pursue based on my original description?

1990 Plymouth Laser Engine  When idling When warm 

I have a 1990 Plymouth Laser with a 2.0 liter Turbo engine. It has smoked some for the last few years, and I have had to add a quart of oil after 2,000 miles, then I change it at 3,000 miles. I was told that the smoke was due to the turbo wearing out (115,000 miles). I used to use 10w30 oil, but 2 years ago the oil pressure light started to come on at idle, so I switched to 10w40 Valvoline MaxLife and that took care of it until about the time that the oil needed to be added to or changed. In the last 2 weeks, however, the oil pressure light comes on after the engine warms up (10 mins) and the engine is below normal driving speed, the gauge confirms the low pressure. I took it to my local mechanic: he tested the oil pressure and reported it at about 3 lbs. He also checked the compression in each cylinder: 150/151/140/125psi. He stated that the engine is worn out and not rebuildable, also not worth buying a new engine. My brother told me that if I could get the oil pressure/flow back up, that I might get more use out of the car (which is otherwise in immaculate condition, including a new computer installed 1 year ago). He suggested dropping the oil pan and cleaning out the oil screen and that this may do the trick. Do you have any other suggestions?

Worn valve guides is the most common cause of an engine burning oil.

Cleaning the oil pump screen would help assuming,

1. The screen is restricted
2. You are able to clean it

Worth taking a look at if you have the time.

If the engine bearings, rings, etc are worn excessively it's probably not worth putting money into.

You could consider finding a used engine in rebuildable condition. Have it rebuilt while you run the current engine in the sunset of it's life.
Or perhaps a low mileage used engine. You would want to replace gaskets and seals, clean the oil pan, etc.

I dropped the oil pan and cleaned the screen, although it was not stopped up or even dirty. I did notice that a dent in the oil pan had it pushed up against the screen. I was thinking that that may have restricted the oil flow, so I hammered out the dent and put it all back together with new oil and filter. But the oil pressure still dropped as soon as I let it idle after driving it 10 minutes.

My questions now are: Would changing to 20w50 oil help things or would it artifically raise the oil pressure without lubricating all the necessary parts? Also, do I risk doing further damage to drive it for a little while? The mechanic who checked the oil pressure stated that he didn't think I should drive it any more, like he thought it was going to freeze up at any moment. I am probably going to sell it and let someone else put another engine in it - should I park it except for test drives? Thanks.

Changing to a heavier weight synthetic engine oil is your best bet to "borrow time".

It is not possible to predict how long your engine will last. Your mechanic gave you a safe answer.

And for the question about risking further damage if you drive it, Yes. But if you don't intend to rebuild the engine the damage is meaningless. The damage has already been done.
Park the car the first time the engine knocks, rattles, etc.

1990 Plymouth Laser Engine Malfunction  Always

I replaced the alternator on my 1990 Laser because the old one was seized up due to bad bearings. Now my new one (out of the box) is not charging the battery. The Laser has a 2.0 engine with a Turbo. I have -14.5 volts on the B terminal of the alternator and less than 10 volts and falling with the engine running on the Pos. post of the battery. The battery is fairly new and will take and hold a charge from a battery charger. What is in the circuit in between the alternator and the battery other than the fusable link just off of the pos. post of the battery that checks out OK with a Ohm meter? I will appreciate any help you can give me, Thanks. Joe Stabler.

you have a voltage regulater that controls the chage to the batt look at the dash and if the batt is weak the meter should be over charging to make up the slack if not and the batt is good then the regulater needs replacing at the post it should be reading just above 13 volts sounds like the regulator is the problem

Hello
Were you able to take care of that problem?
did and were you able to use my advise?
do you still need more info?
I would like to know the outcome
thanks macconeck

1990 Plymouth Laser Engine Leaking When driving When warm 

When I drive on freeway, oil ends up in the airfilter, I've changed PVC valve, oil, oil filter. I'm not sure if it is baffles in valve cover, or possible the oil screen? The oil preasure is good and compression test was betwwen 150-180? Thanks, Steve

there should be another filter in the baffle a sponge filter that needs to be changed also

1990 Plymouth Laser Fuel System Stalling Happens sometimes When warm 

Car will not start at times, other times I am driving down the road and it is dying, I dread coming to a red light as it will die again. When I let it set for a while I can get a few miles down the road. It is very inconsistant but I no longer dare drive the car. I took it to a garage yesterday to see if the fuel filter was clogged and they said no. It had a recent tune up. I thought it may have been bad gas so I filled tank put dry gas it and it ran for day without problems, now it is doing it again.

Which engine do you have?

Also start by checking the troublecodes.

It is the one with the Turbo. A repair manual I have says it may be a fuel pressure solenoid. What do you think?

These cars are known to have problems with the pick-up coil (hall effect sensor) in the distributor.

What do you suggest I ask for when I have to take this car in to be fixed and do I need to take it to a Dodge dealorship.

Good question on whether to take it to the Dodge dealership. It would cost more but the chances that they get it right the first time is better than most alternatives. The biggest drawback to dealer service is the price of dealer parts.

When it comes to independent garages, do some research quizzing friends and relatives to find a shop that has a stellar reputation. Then call the garage and ask them if they have experience with this engine management system or if they recommend you take it to the dealer. If they are confident with their ability to diagnose your car, ask them if they are willing to shop around for parts.
Another thing I often recommend is to let a professional diagnose the problem and then perform the repair yourself.
Something that would be helpful for the mechanic is if your car has a tach and you notice if it moves during the no start.

By the way did you ever check troublecodes?

Unfortunately my tach no longer works. Where do I check for troublecodes? The other day I could not even get this car to start. I put in dry gas waited awhile and was able to drive it a few days without any problems. Today on my way home it started dying as I was driving. I pulled over let it cool and got a few feet down the road so I put in a fuel injector cleaner and fresh gas and was then able to drive a few miles. It did this all the way home. Sometimes it runs fine. I will take your suggestions to a garage I know where they are honest and ask their advise. Hopefully I can get the car there. The dealorships are very crooked in this area but I agree sometimes they are the only alternative.

It's not what I wish upon you, but the next time it stalls and won't restart listen for the usual clicking of relays you hear when you turn the key on. Make sure to turn the key off for a bit then turn it to the on/run position.
Also when you turn the key on listen for the fuel pump to see if it runs for a couple of seconds (as it normally does).

To check troublecodes, try turning the key to the on/run position then back to the off position. Back to on/run and off again. Now back to the on/run position. (You have to turn the key from off to on 3 times within 5 seconds). Closely watch the check engine light, it will be on then go off. Quickly it will start flashing. The first flashes will be the tens place. There will be a pause. Then the ones place will flash.
So-
flash flash PAUSE flash flash flash
idicates
2 and 3 for code number 23.

Can be confusing at first, but is easy once you get the hang of it.

When it dies and I tried to restart it I did hear those clicking sounds you describe. When I get the flashing what do I do with it and must the car be acting up in order to do this test?

This car is the large turbo engine with the 16 fuel injection system. Does this a make a difference. I tried to do the code thing you suggested and it does not work. Today I cannot get the car to even start no matter what I do with it. I will have to have it towed for repairs, but at least it will be broken when it gets to the shop.

I tried this a couple of times and heard nothing. NOw the car is starting again without any problems. What the heck could be going on???

Sorry for the confusion on the troublecode check.
What you can do before you tow it to the shop is check for spark and/or listen to see if the fuel pump runs during attempt to start the car. Just in case when it is towed to the shop it starts.

I went out again and after several attempts it started. However I do not dare take this out onto the road to try to get it to shop for repairs. I cannot trust it at all at this point. It is driving me crazy.

Did you notice if the fuel pump was running when you the engine cranked over but would not start?

How can I tell if the fuel pump is running or not????

Sorry I should of gave more detail.

The fuel pump is in the gas tank near the rear of the car. Make sure you have your radio, heater, wipers, etc turned off. When you first turn the key on (to the point where the dash warning lights come on, but not cranking over the engine) the fuel pump will run for 2 or 3 seconds to prime the fuel system. You will hear it as a low humming sound from the rear of the car. Remember it last about 2 or 3 seconds.
The fuel pump will also run when the engine is cranking.

Something is being lost, signal from the distributor (no spark due to failing cranksensor), power to the fuel pump or injectors, a bad relay, etc. It should be easy for your mechanic to find.

I sure hope you are right. I have made arrangements to take it to a dealor on 8/13 and have a tow truck lined up in case I can't make it there. I cannot trust to drive it the way it is now. I am going to hand them this conversation when I take it to them.

How much money for the tow truck? You may wish to buy a Triple A service subscription. Should you have trouble on the way they will tow you for free. If you do buy the service make sure to get the version that will tow you to a destination of your choosing.

I have it all arranged with towing from my insurance company. I have Amica and they know the situation. I will start out from home and see how far I get.

1990 Plymouth Laser Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start  

I have a 1990 laser turbo. I'm not getting power to the fuel pump and I'm also not getting spark. I bought a "shut-off relay", but I can't find where it goes. Do you know and do you think that might be the problem?

i think it is called an auto shutdown relay

Look on the left (drivers side) strut tower (underhood).

Relays should be under hood on left side appron in the black box.There is also a fuse in fuse block located in the interior under the dash or at the kick panel on the left side.Check your owners manual for specific fuse.If either one of these has popped,they could cause the ignition(spark)shut down.If it is either one of these,you may want to see if you can have the vehicle scanned for any diagnostic codes.Something other than old age or wear and tear may have caused the malfuction.
Good Luck,
Paul

the relay i need to find is one that stands alone. it is not in the box. it has a bracket on it. It's called an auto-shutdown relay.

I have heard of fuel pump inertia switchs and relays related to them,but I do not believe I've ever run across an auto-shutdown relay.After researching I could not find such a part.You may check with the vendor from whom you purchased this part to see if they can supply some info as to the location.The manuals I've checked don't give enough information by using this discription.
Good Luck,
Paul