1997 Plymouth Mini-Van Fuel System Failing When stopped No pattern
New User Asked -
Sometimes after running errands, when I go to start the engine, it will run for about 3 seconds, then shut off. If I keep trying off and on for about 5 minutes, it will start. I suspect the fuel pump, but I also heard that the problem could be a faulty ignition switch can cause this. I also have been smelling gas, but usually not when I am dealing with the not-starting issue. I still suspect the fuel pump. The van has 167,000 miles on it. Thoughts?
kaptnzog -
If there is a smell of gas emiting when the problem is not occuring, I would have to eliminate the fule pump. When you turn the key to the on position, do you hear a click or buzzing sound coming from the rear in the tank area? If so, thats' your fuel pump. Wuthout runnig a systems check, I would have to guess you have a problem with throttle position sensor or an air flow sensor.
Good Luck,
Paul
New User -
Hi Paul,
Thanks for responding. I don't hear the click or buzz you mentioned. I will investigate the areas you mentioned. Are they both located near the fuel injectors? As the vehicle is gettin older, I will have to purchase a manual for it - so I can at least know where things are located. Also, regarding the throttle sensor/air flow; are these parts that are expensive and can be purchased from a junkyard?
Thanks!
Bruce
kaptnzog -
Yhe fuel pump is located in the gas tank. As far as rhe price on the sensors, get a quote from your local part house and while you're there, it would be wise to invest in a repair manual. These are usually in the 10=20 dollar range and well worth it. I think this will guide you to finding the locations for the the parts you're looking for. Also ask them if they offer diagnostic scanning. Some places offer this for free or at a nominal price. It may help pinpoint the problem without just throwing parts at the vehicle.
Good Luck,
Paul
New User -
Hi Paul,
What do you think might be the cause of the gas odor. I figure that: a)it is a small leak, b) it is near the engine and evaporates before reaching the ground. I realize this is a broad question, but I'm trying to determine if this is related to my other issue.
Thanks!
Bruce
kaptnzog -
If its in the engine compartment, follow the fule lines from the tank to the compartment checking for damage or minute leaks. Turn the key to the on position but don't start the vehicle(make sure to set your parking brake),this will pressurize the system if the fuel pump is operating correctly. If there is no physical evidence of a leak(liquid gas) I would suspect some type of a breather hose around the manifold or anything attached to the manifold or the manifold itself. These type of leaks are kind of hard to find without a leak detector device. Yes it could be related. If there is a leak in or around your intake, unwanted air is entering the system, thus your sensors are getting a false read and sending that back to the ECM.
Good Luck,
Paul
Sliding side-door beginning to rattle.
How to fix?
Douglas -
Where is the door rattling?
Check to see if there is any play in the door hinges/mounts/latch. A visual inpsection will be required to isolate the failur point. Confirm where the problem is and we'll continue. If the problem is in the interior door, let me know.
New User -
No play in door hardware or latch.Shuts tight. Rattle is intermittant and seems to come from interior door panel/trim, close to bottom of window area, left side of side-door.
New User -
2nd attempt to reach you. Hardware seems OK. Rattle coming from inside side-door where the trim meets the panel.
Douglas -
Okay, is this actually the trim is loos or internal components? You will need to remove the door trim if it is an internal component as it could be about anywhere but should be easy to isolated by looking and feeling.
1995 Plymouth Mini-Van Fuel System Stalling When driving Always
New User Asked -
Every time I start to get low on gas, my van starts to cut out and die on me. When the tank is full, it wasn't doing that, but now it doesn't seem to have the power it had when I push on the gas. I will push on the gas pedal and it will lurch, and sometimes go, but it tries to die everytime, and the other day it finally kept dying on me until I filled the tank, and the tank doesn't have to be low anymore. I was wondering if it would be just the fuel filter or maybe the fuel pump.
Roger -
Hello, If it has been a while since the fuel filter was changed it is fairly inexpensive to start there. Once removed one can try to exhale through the old filter to see how restricted it is.
But, since the fuel filter does the same job whether the tank is fuel or low on fuel it would be good business to check the fuel pump pressure and you may even find the filter inside the fuel tank on the pump pick-up tube/line to be dirty. When this filter screen gets restricted the result is fuel starvation and the engine can stumble for lack of fuel volumn.
Your thoughts?,
Roger
New User -
Thank you so much for your response. I have to take it to a shop to get it fixed and can't afford to get screwed over. This most likely would be the fuel pump pressure or fuel pump then? What about my fuel injectors? My ex was planning on changing the fuel filter this weekend, but if I will have to take it in anyway, I would rather not wait. Thanks again!!
Roger -
Fuel injectors function best with the correct fuel pressure. Since the fuel cannot be compressed you have reason the it may just be a quantity restriction caused by a dirty filter.
The filter in the fuel supply line (outside the fuel tank) is easiest to have changed and of course the least expensive. You should shop this to get a good price for this job. Many shops from Sears, Firestone, Goodyear, Pep Boys and even national chain tune-up shops can change a fuel filter.
Assume nothing. It's best to road test with the technician (you drive first) to duplicate the complaint. This will ensure the problem is identified and the repair path goes the right direction from the start.
Do not authorize repairs you do not agree to be needed and choose to afford. If necessary, put a monetary limit on how far the shop can go without further authorization from you. It's your money. You are in charge. You'll be able to find out quickly who is honest.
I have problem to start the car I change the spark plug and wire and distribution cap change the filter and pump gas tank change and still can get gas the injecter . I replace all this item was working for two day but back to the same problem please can you help
Bruce Kit -
Have you checked for codes?
New User -
no I have not check the code how can i access the code could i buy it or there is away that I can jump it and access the code
Bruce Kit -
Simply turn the key off/on 3x but do not start, leaving in the on position
The check engine light will then flash a series of codes. For example: The light might flash 2x, pause, then flash 3x That would be code 23. If you get 5 flashes,pause and five flashes that would be code 55 which denotes 'end of test'.
New User -
I have the code tell me if this is right 1-3;1-2; 2-7;2-2;5-5. I would like too know what it means please
Bruce Kit -
13 Map Sensor fault or vacuum hose disconnected
12 Battery recently disconnected
22 Coolant sensor fault
27 Injector circuit problem...bad connection?
55 End of test
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