Plymouth Reliant

1989 Plymouth Reliant All Part Groups Won't Start Happens always When cold

89 Reliant will not start when temperature is below 40 degrees. Hard to start when below 45. Will start when 50 or above. At 45 degrees, when it is hard to start, it will turn over for 15 seconds ro so then start right up. Again, below 40, forget it. Recent tune up. New MAP sensor and coolent temp sensor. On-going problem. great all summer, naturally, no problem with cold temps.

Most likely a fuel issue. Try giving it a shot of starting fluid on a cold day and if it starts, then we are not getting enough fuel into the engine when it is cold.

If fuel is your problem, then test the fuel pressure. Check the intake air temp sensor. You can also check if the throttle body is spraying fuel.

Thank you, your suggestion of starting fluid allows me to use the car in cold weather. Yes, I see gas in the trottle body when it tries to start. I just got and replaced the air temp sensor - it was inexpensive, so I just did it. I still have the problem. Any additional ideas? (yes, going to a dealer or better garage is not a bad idea at this point... but if there was s/t elae easy to try...

Weak fuel pressure or a bad fuel injector could be giving this problem. Another unlikely possibility would be the computer.

You are obviously not getting enough fuel into the intake when starting. The computer is supposed to automatically control this by increasing the ON time for the injector. It uses the coolant temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, starter signal, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor and the RPM signal to calculate the amount of fuel to add.

1981 Plymouth Reliant Engine Stalling Happens always Always

Only 21,000 actual miles. Just developed problem of Stalling during driving, braking, turning. Have to keep up RPMS.(2 footed driving ) to keep running. Have changed plugs, wires, cap. Have checked lifters, and upper engine.. no problem seen. Will not stay running during idle times now. HELP please. Mike

Is the problem that the idle speed drop to low or that the engine will not run at normal idle speeds?

Does this have a 2.2L engine?

It has a 2.2... The problem developed all of a sudden about 1 week ago. Up to that point, all was well. The engine just started stalling at normal driving speeds. When slowing down for red lights, turning at intersections etc. After checking out the engine, and changing the plugs etc., now it wont even stay idling without giving it a little gas to keep it running. There are no engine warning lights being lit up on the dashboard, nor were there any at any time.

Are you losing any coolant?

Also check to see if the egr valve is sticking open at all. Do this by temporarily plugging the egr passage.

YOu could also have a vacuum leak, carb problem or fuel pressure problem, etc but let's rule out simpler things first.

There has been no coolant loss. Also Egr valve functions properly. All vacumm hoses have been disconnected, conected, checked etc., when we tore apart the top part of engine to check the valves and lifters.

Have you verified the timing is okay?

You are certain the egr valve is closing completely? I don't want to move past this unless we are certain.

Also smell the oil for the presence of gasoline.

Hello Sorry I was gone for a few days.. Yes Timing belt check. Oil checked. EGR valve check. No mixing of oil, gas, anti-freeze, nothing.

Hello ?? have you left for vacation now?? I was wondering does this sound like a fuel filter problem??

Sorry, my last reply didn't go through. Trying again..

Not likely, although the fuel filter is probably overdue for changing considering the age of the car. Usually when a filter becomes restricted it will show up mostly upon hard acceleration- when the engine requires more fuel.

Inspect the spark plugs. See if they have a black sooty appearance or a white blistery appearance.

Back with my original reply or second, I had already changed all 4 plugs/ wires/ and the dist cap, it made no difference in the way the engine ran.

Yes, but the condition of the plugs should indicate if you are having a fuel mixture problem.

Rich will cause black sooty depostis while lean will leave very clean plugs with a blistery white appearance.

Dear Sir: I do not remember. It was 3 weeks ago. My engine is dying, and I have been trying to save it for 3 weeks now. Please help by #1 speaking in plain english #2 , I feel that All of my symptoms are plenty for you do do a diagnosis by now. By my symptoms, I do not think a lean or rich fuel mixture is causing a total engine shut down, during acceleration, or de-celeration, at stop lights. There is knocking, on left side of engine, the exhaust sounds different, I am going through gasoline like it is just running through the carb un-burnt, If I do not drive with 2 feet, to keep up the RPM's the engine stalls, even during the most benign movements like backing out of a driveway.
Is this enough Now??

If you are using excessive fuel it sounds like the carburetor is flooding over. The appearance of the spark plugs would aid in determining if this was the case.

If there is knocking inside the engine and the exhaust sounds different you need to cylinder compression to rule out mechanical damage. This would include head gasket and timing problems.

If the shut-down happens to fast to be a mechanical or fuel mixture concern, try a wiggle test on the wiring to the ignition system. See if you can find a bad wire that cause the engine to cut-out when the wire is moved. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

I will be happy to explain anything you need clarification on in more detail. Please understand a diagnostic approach is necessary to isolate problems- the alternative is guessing which can be a very expensive habit.

I am going out of town for the holiday. Lets put this issue on hold until Monday. Happy Thanksgiving and enjoy the holiday with your family.

Thanx

That is fine.

Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving.

Dear Sir; I am back... Let me review briefly. My friend and I had the valve cover off, and checked the valves, checked the carb, egr,and vacumm hoses. Wwe changed the plugs, wires, dist cap, re-tightened fuel lines, checked air intake, idle --- everything we can think of. ((Maybe I missed something we did) but we did a lot. Right now he is saying it seems like a blown valve/piston. This is greek to me. HE believes it is on the lower side of the engine which means the engine needs replaced, or re-built. I have neither the time nor means to do either. I was hoping With my COMPLETE description of the symptoms you could tell me is he correct or are we missing a 30.00 dollar part.

3 weeks ago all was fine. Then the car strated, and when placed into gear it would stall . Restart, gear stall, restart gear stall. This is the cycle that has been repeating now for weeks.
It happened all at once not over time.
It I keep 1 foot on gas, as I shift into gear, it may stay running. Please read this entir paragraph, and answer in parts, all of them. Thank You
Mike

First you MUST do a compression test. Also check the vaacuum hose going from the brake booster to the intake manifold. It must be connected and tight. Remove the plastic valve on the end of the hose at the power brake booster.See if it is working.Blow in it both ways.It is a check valve,air should only pass in one direction.
Let me know the results of this test and the compression test.
Also check timing belt.When was the last time it was changed?

Please cancel Question

Please refund deposit... Problem has been solved.

Blown Valve(s) 3-4 Headgasket, burnt too lean, lost all power. $800-$900 to fix. OUCH

I am NOT a happy consumer. Please tell previous mechanic this all took too long and had to find info elsewhere. But thanks for stepping up to try to assist. Mike

Thats why I said to FIRST do compression test.If the head gasket was blown between #3 and #4, make sure that the head is not cracked in that area.I was informed, by a chrysler mechanic that that 4 cylinder had a cooling problenm on that end of the motor.
If the head is being replaced, be sure that a Turbo type head is used as a non turbo one is weaker.
Bruce