Plymouth Voyager

2000 Plymouth Voyager Windows / Glass Failing Happens always Always

The Passenger side window and rear window do not open. Seems to be no power to either window. Tried both the driver side switch and passenger side switch. Nothing happens at all. Did the motors fail? Is there a fuse or relay that needs to switched out?

Did both windows stop operating at the same time? Do you hear a click or anything when you try the switch?

Yes they both stopped operating at the sametime. They used to open partially.

You will have to check for available voltage the window motor. If voltage is available the window motor needs replacing. If no voltage is present there is not much you can do other than check fuses (with a test light) and for broken wires/damaged switch. Modern automobiles use costly modules (BCM- body control module) to control things that require a scanner to perform diagnostics-

2000 Plymouth Voyager Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving Always

The right front side has suddenly started alomost like wobbling when I am at low speeds. It is whether I am slowing down or just starting off.

You need to inspect for something that has become loose from wear or damage. It could be a number of things, from an axle shaft joint or brake caliper to engine/trans mount or bearing. Check this out thoroughly before driving again, this could be a serious hazard, for instance if you have a bad wheel, tire, brakes, or suspension component.

2000 Plymouth Voyager Engine Overheating When idling When warm 

after driving in from outside the city about 20 minute drive I was sitting in line at the bank and then temperature light on the dash dinged and I noticed that the temperature dial starting moving all the way up. I immediately turned off AC and this caused the temperature light to go off and the temperature to settle back down. What would have caused this

The first thing to check is the (radiator) cooling fan to see if it's operative. Open the hood, turn on the A/C and see if the cooling fans are running. Be very careful around moving engine parts.

both fans working fine and looks like there is plenty of engine coolant

Okay, now you'll need to check for operation of the fans when the problem occurs. You may have intermittent fan operation.

how long should I test this

If I don't run the AC could that keep this problem from happening again

Don't let it get dangerously hot, your gauge should be marked with a danger zone.

We don't know for sure what the problem is, for that reason I'd hate to see you avoid using the A/C as sometimes it's necessary in dangerously hot temps. You could turn the A/C off when the temp starts approaching the danger zone if you'd rather take this route to save money. I'd hate to see you stop using it in it's entirety.

1998 Plymouth Voyager Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting When cold

When I start Voyager the lights on the A/C panel start flashing. The become normal after driving for 15-20 minutes. What could be the problem?

Hello, I'm going to get into the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base and see whats up. Does the system heat/cool OK?

I expect to learn there is a code set or an indication the HVAC System requires a specific repair.

Back today,

Roger

Do you have a fax number? Would a cover sheet be needed for the fax?

I have some info for you that is too much to type.

Please advise,

Roger

The fax may cost you more. I am in Kuwait. The fax number is [redacted] . I need a cover page with my name. Is it not possible to scan and email?

I'll see if I can scan to email but that will make the file very large and my ISP may not support an attachment like that.

Does your Voyager HVAC System heat and cool OK?

Roger

Heat and cool is working fine. I also tried A/C caliberation procedure by pressing top and bottom buttons on the left side. However now only two adjacent lights are flashing. A/C-on/off and Recirculatre-air lights.

I cannot scan to email so I will type up and send you some helpful data. The two lights flashing are due to a "Cool Down Test" that automatically started when you did the calibration.

Did you do the calibration with the evaporator core at room temperature? That is necessary. You would warm up the engine without the A/C on but have the blower fan "ON" to warm/dry the evaporator core. Then you start the calibration and you want to know what happens next after you turn on the compressor and the system tracks how fast the evaporator cools down in a two minute time frame. The remaining lights that flash tell us if the system passed the test or failed.

More later,

Roger

Give this information a try and see if this clears things up. If the system does not clear itself by following these steps, please advise.

IN VEHICLE CALIBRATION

NOTE: Whenever A/C-heater control panel, doors or door actuators are replaced, actuator calibration/diagnostics and cool down test must be performed.

1. Mode and blend door calibration compensates for mechanical differences in actuators, heater unit and its linkages. Calibration/diagnostics and cool-down tests are entered using switches and buttons on A/C-heater control panel. Cool-down test is automatically performed, whenever calibration/diagnostics test is activated. Diagnostics are automatically performed, whenever calibration/diagnostics or cool-down test is activated.
2. Turn ignition on. If LEDs on A/c-heater control panel are not flashing, the system has passed calibration/diagnostics and cool-down tests. No calibration is required. If rear wiper and intermittent rear wiper button LEDs are flashing simultaneously , actuators have not been calibrated, a previous calibration failure occurred, or calibration/diagnostics have failed. Run calibration/diagnostics procedure.
3. If A/C and recirculation switch button LEDs are flashing simultaneously, system has not passed cool-down test. Run cool-down test. See cool-down test. If rear wiper, intermittent rear wiper, A/C and recirculation switch button LEDs are flashing simultaneously, system has failed calibration/diagnostics and cool-down test. Run calibration/diagnostics procedure. See CALIBRATION/DIAGNOSTICS.

CALIBRATION/DIAGNOSTICS

1. To enter calibration/diagnostics test, set parking brake. Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. With engine idling, turn blower switch to high. Turn mode switch to panel. Open all A/C outlets. Move temperature to full cold.
2. Press and hold rear wash and rear wiper buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LEDs illuminate). All LEDs should illuminate for 5 seconds. Rear wiper and intermittent rear wiper button LEDs will flash alternately during calibration/diagnostics procedure. A/C and recirculation button LEDs will alternately flash during cool-down test.
3. After approximately 60 seconds, if only rear wiper button LED is flashing, calibration is successful and system is okay. If rear wiper and intermittent rear wiper button LEDs are flashing, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are present, see READING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES under SELF-DIAGNOSTICS.
4. To exit calibration/diagnostics at any time, press rear window defogger button, rear wiper button, recirculation button or cycle ignition off and then on. Test will automatically terminate 15 minutes after calibration/diagnostics is entered.

NOTE: If evaporator is already cold, system will fail test. Prior to start of test operate system with A/C off and blower on high for 3-5 minutes.

COOL-DOWN TEST

1. During this test, the system will monitor evaporator temperature sensor. The A/C system must be able to bring evaporator temperature down to a predetermined minimum level in less than 2 minutes.
2. To enter cool-down test, set parking brake. Ensure evaporator is at room temperature. With engine idling, turn blower switch to high. Turn mode switch to panel. Open all A/C outlets. Move temperature lever to full cold.
3. Press and hold rear wash and A/C buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LEDs illuminate). All LEDs should illuminate for 5 seconds. A/C and recirculation button LEDs will alternately flash during cool-down test. If A/C and recirculation button LEDs are flashing simultaneously, cool-down test has failed. Go to COOL-DOWN TEST FAILED.

COOL-DOWN TEST FAILED

1. During this test A/C performance will be compared with information evaporator temperature sensor is providing the system. This will determine if the evaporator sensor is working properly.
2. Ensure A/C system is performing properly. If A/C system is performing properly, place a thermometer in center vent. Perform cool-down test. See COOL-DOWN TEST. Outlet air temperature must drop at least 20 degrees F (7 degrees C) in two minutes.
3. If outlet air temperature drops at least 20 degrees F (7 degrees C) in two minutes, cycle A/C-heater control panel to level 4. See READING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES under SELF-DIAGNOSTICS. Allow evaporator to warm up to room temperature and perform step 2 again.
4. If outlet temperature drops at least 20 degrees F (7 degrees C) in two minutes, move evaporator sensor to or away from evaporator. Allow evaporator to warm to room temperature and perform step 2 again.
5. If outlet temperature drops at least 20 degrees F (7 degrees C) in two minutes, and fails cool-down test, evaporator temperature sensor is not working properly. Replace evaporator sensor. Perform calibration/diagnostics and cool-down tests to clear DTCs. See CALIBRATION/DIAGNOSTICS and COOL-DOWN TEST.


Roger

1998 Plymouth Voyager Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

Air Condition unit does not work. Try recharging but compressor does not come on. The fuse keep blowing.

Hello, Have you tried unplugging the a/c compressor clutch and then with a new fuse installed will the fuse remain good when you turn the system ON? This will tell us if the clutch is shorted out.

Please advise,

Roger

How are you doing with this one?

Roger

Hello, Is this question still active?

Roger

1998 Plymouth Voyager Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

All of a sudden when I got back into my van one
day, it would not start and still has not started.

Hi,
A common cause of this problem is a bad fuel pump. The pump is inside the tank and quite a job to change. Check to see if there is fuel pressure at the engine. If not, see if the pump is getting power when cranking the engine. If so, you have a bad pump.

1998 Plymouth Voyager Drive Train / Driveline   

2.4l 3 speed automatic. car will not move. when gear selecter is in reverse or any forward gear, there is a clicking noise. the transmission had been shifting funny especially when cold before this happened.

Sounds like your transmission requires rebuild. The only things you can check are trans fluid color and level,the shifter cable adjustment and the Front CV drive axles. If you take it to a trans shop for inspection, go to a trusted one.

You could check the computer trouble codes to see if this points to any electrical issues with the transmission (use the key on/off method or Autozone will loan you a code reader for a refundable deposit). A transmission additive/conditioner will help with some transmission concerns.

If you hear a loud clicking noise it is possible you have a broken CV joint (the speedometer would likely register speed).

It is still very possible your tranmsmission has internal damage which will require a professional rebuild to get it right.

1998 Plymouth Voyager Engine   

Service Engine Soon light comes on. It has failed emission test. The reason for failure: 02 Sensor Circuit. No Activity Detected (Bank 1 sensor 2). The batteries was disconnected before the test was done.

Hello, Do you have a scanner (not a code reader) to monitor the O2 sensor after the engine warms up?

The sensor may need to be replaced. If so I recommend getting the part from a Chrysler Dealer. I haven't had very good results with after market sensors on Chrysler products.

Roger

I believe the engine has a code the number is P0140. But the description of failure reads: 02 Sensor Circit No Activity Detected. I will go ahead and replace sensor as you suggested.

No activity detected refers to no change in feedback from the sensor. A dead sensor just might be the case here.

Once the engine warms up these oxygen sensors constantly vary the voltage feedback to the computer. If the same signal is always sent to the computer when the computer "knows" the engine is warmed up and the signal should vary the code sets as inactivity.

Roger

1998 Plymouth Voyager Ignition System   

1998 Plymouth Voyager (3.0L) will start and run with foot on accelerator, how ever it will not idle on it's own. I have done the following with in the last 4 weeks Valve job, heads resurfaced, new plugs/wires, checked for vacuum leaks, and had the injectors cleaned. If anyone could point me in a direction to get this thing running I would be eternally grateful. John A. John a

Have you scanned it for codes yet? It might be any one of many sensors .Might be the IAC or the throttle position sensor.

I have not been able to scan for codes thus far as I do not have a scanner and no way to get the vehicle to the shop. I did how ever just replace the distributor cap, and rotor which made no difference. I will check the parts that you suggested and see if that makes a difference.
Thank you,
John A.

UPDATE: I was able to limp the van to Auto-zone where they used the code reader and found no error codes in the computer. The van did die at every light and when slowing down to make a turn.
Thank you,
John A.

do you know how to test for...water in gas?

I apologize for the delay in getting back to you, I have been dealing with frozen water lines and broken appliances this last week. I did check for water in the gas and did not find any. any more suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you,
John Annis

How did you check for water?
If unsure, drain tank, replace
'sock' (filter) in tank.New gas.

Hello,

Was this problem present before the head and valve job?

You said it stalled at the traffic lights, but does it run fine above idle rpm's? The egr valve stuck open will cause this. Plug off the egr and see if idle improves immediately.

You had the injectors cleaned, but did your clean the throttle body too. This would include the throttle blade and bore, along with the idle speed motor and its port into the throttle body.

If you had major carbon build-up from a rough running condition that required valve service, a piece may have broken off and holding the egr valve open. The excess carbon could really take its toll on the throttle body and idle speed motor.

Another possible vacuum concern that is often overlooked is the power brake booster. Plug this vacuum line off for test purposes. Idle will improve immediately if this is the problem.

Frozen water lines- the fasting thing I've seen for unthawing them (when practical) is a shop vac with the hose installed to blow air. The bigger the vac the more air obviously. Just make sure the shop vac is inhaling air above freezing. Aside from the dust they stir up, it's also one of the safest methods."

Thank you for the quick reply, yes this problem was present before the service and was the primary reason for having it completed. I have not tested the EGR valve yet to see if it causing the problem. I also did not clan the throttle body either, nor do I know how to do it could you offer some advice please.

Thank you

John
John An

Yes I can, but first confirm that the engine runs fine at all RPM's except idle (or close to idle rpm's)?

My apologies, yes with the engine at a high idle the vehicle will run mostly normal, with an a occasional stutter.

Hello,

Visit autozone.com. Register your vehicle by entering year, make, model, etc. Then click Repair Info to get to Vehicle Repair Guides. This will give access to a free online repair manual that is the rough equivalent of a Haynes or Chiltons manual.

Information on the throttle body and IAC (idle speed motor or idle air control valve... same thing) is under the Fuel System chapter of the repair guide.

Once you remove the cover (Air Inlet Resonator Assembly), which include the large air duct to the throttle body, this will expose the throttle body blade (this is the flapper that let air by when you press the gas pedal). Clean both sides of the blade with an old toothbrush and throttle body cleaner. Also clean the bore as best you can.

Remove the IAC and clean its pintle (the working end) and its port into the throttle body. Note how dirty it is.

The things listed above are good maintenance, so nothing to lose.

The EGR valve is listed under Driveability and Emissions Control chapter of the repair guide. Once in that section click Exhaust Gas Recirculation System. Look for the details on EGR valve leakage. Quick test is to remove and block all passageways/vacuum lines. Don't use anything that can easily catch fire OR be sucked through the vacuum hoses. Only do this for a short test period. You'll know immediately.

I apologize again for the delay, I have not been able to work on this vehicle for an extended period of time. I have tried the items that you have listed and cleaned the IAC valve and cleaned the throttle body assembly free of carbon. I also replaced the MAP sensor based on the input from another mechanic. I am still experiencing similar problems, now the van will idle with a miss with the new MAP sensor unplugged. I have also checked and rechecked the system for vacuum leaks and have not found any. If I plug in the MAP sensor the van will "bog down" and die.

Sorry I missed your reply.

Have you tested the TPS (throttle position sensor) and temperature sensors?

Does the engine run better all the way around with the MAP unplugged?

Douglas,
I have not tested the TPS or the Temp sensors yet, If I unplug the MAP sensor the van will idle with a miss. If I plug in the MAP sensor the idle get much more rough and the engine acts like it starving for air and will die. I have unplugged all vacuum lines and blocked them off one at a time and it does not make any difference as to how the engine runs.

John

The engine running okay with the MAP disconnected discounts a vacuum leak. The change in fuel delivery and timing would not make a great difference in RPM's.

1997 Plymouth Voyager Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing When braking Always

My driver side stop light does not go on, even after chaging the light and the fuse. I hope you can please give me some help to repair this problem b-4 I get a fix-it ticket. Your help help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You, John M.

it is possible that you have a problem with another bulb on the passenger side.
check each bulb to make sure they are working especially the 1157 they contain two lights in the same bulb.
if one side is working then it is not the fuse. also check the connections behind reflectors ,the wiring harness

I hope this helps

Thank you for your suggetion. I have one thought though, I use 3057 bulbs on the drivers side I hope your not saying the passenger side uses a different type bulb.
Anyway thanks for your help and I will give you a run down after I check out what you have told me.
Thank, John Meehan

no but it could be a bad bulb only half working you should swap it out for a new one just to make sure but yes stick to the same bulb type just know there are two bulbs in the reflector one has two elements the other a single element.

1997 Plymouth Voyager Electrical / Lighting Systems  When braking Always

One of my brake lights does not work when I apply the brake, but accordinf to my wife, who was standing bihind the van, it does work. I also have to say that the parking lights were on when this was done.
Do you have any ideas why the brake light works when the parking parking lights are on and do not work when they are off ?
I hope you can help.
Thank you, John Meehan. (backfailed@sbcglobal.net)

Hi;
You have a double fillament light bulb. It can short out across the filaments. You might want to pick up some new light bulbs, It should be an 1157 bulbs. Good Luck Les.

1997 Plymouth Voyager Engine   

I am asking please...can someone tell me how I can clean the existing catalytic converter? I know that it is supposedly not possible, you buy thewhole system. But I did manage to fix (the same girl's) a Dodge Neon that wouldn't go over 20 mph, by cleaning out the catalytic converter. i have been on this thing all day & get stumped each time I feel close to the solution. Help!

Hello, I have never heard of cleaning a catalytic converter. I've heard of removing it from the vehicle, knocking the insides out through the inlet/output pipes and reinstalling it on the vehicle.

Does your state have emissions requirements to pass for vehicle safety inspections? If not you can remove the cat converter and install a section of straight pipe in it's place. If so, fix it right.

Call some muffler shops for a price on a converter replacement. Shop around. Consider a part from a salvage vehicle.

Roger

1997 Plymouth Voyager Electrical / Lighting Systems   

while driving today, my cd player kicked off and on then died--noticed all panel lights (including indicators) died as well--checked my wipers--they worked in super slow ,otion and continued on even though they were turned off---all of my gauges maxed out, then zeroed and repeated,over and over--interior lights and door locks were kicking off and on repeatedly--speedometer is now locked on 200 kph--just got back home and the van died in the driveway--now it will not start--just a rapid click-click-clicking upon ignition--will not turn over--what do you think--anticipating your answer--thx--bill

Hello, What you describe is typical systems behaviour when voltage is too low to maintain operation as designed.

Most likely cause is the alternator has stopped charging the battery. This could be a broken belt or a defective alternator.

Your vehicle ran on battery reserve power until the voltage needed to operate the ignition for the engine was too low to operate and the engine died.

Begin by inspecting the battery cable connections to ensure there are no problems with corrosion or loose connection.

Next, charge the battery and have it tested. With the battery charged start the engine and measure the voltage across the battery posts. If the alternator is working the voltage reading with the engine running should be 13.8 VDC - 15.2 VDC. If the alternator is not working the reading will be close to 12 VDC.

If you determine the alternator is not working, replace it and retest the voltage across the battery terminals for results.

You will need to disconnect the battery when replacing the alternator and reconnect the battery when the job is finished.

Questions?

Roger

thanks roger--i've got my battery on charge as we speak--thought it might be the alternator---what about the regulator?--is that a possibility as well?

The regulator I believe is internal to the alternator. Best to replace the alternator assembly so warranty applies to the whole assembly.

Roger

thx. again, roger

You're welcome! Ready to close this question? If so, please click on OK to finish up......if not, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

1996 Plymouth Voyager Windows / Glass   

back main window where the back hatch door opens needs replacing about what cost will it be?

The price will really depend on what type of glass it was you're replacing. Was it moveable(one you can open and shut)? Was it a "privacy"(one that is very dark in tint so as not to really peer inside)? Was it heated(one that had lines running thru it)? The reason I ask is because each of these factors make a difference in the cost. If it was a stationary glass, there again is going to be the time and labor for cleaning around the lip to provide for the new seal. Now be prepared for the shocker. These pieces of glass, depending on what type it was, can run over $1000.00 without instalation. Being a former body shop manager and insurance appraiser, I'd suggest you contact your agent and ask if you have a glass clause in your policy. Some offer this with a reduced cost for the deductable you have to pay. I myself have a $1000 deductable on collision but $250 on glass. I'd gladly pay $250 compaired to what could surmount to $2500. If you choose to continue on your own than I would suggest you check salvage yards or you can contact Safelite Glass. You should be able to find an #800 in your local phone book. They will direct you to the closest retailer, some of which have mobile service, and provide you with a solid price and gaurenteed install.
Good Luck,
Paul

1996 Plymouth Voyager Ignition System   

driving down highway, van stalls and will not start. Engine turns over but won't fire. There is no spark when checked with a in-line spark checker. Fuel pump makes buzzing noise before ignition start, but not during start cycle.

checked asd relay

does it star once the engine cools down

no

what size or model engine do you have

3 litre engine

the buzzing noise is normal that is the fuel pump priming. Try to test for spark the old way with a screwdriver to the chasis or motor ground and see if you get the same (no spark)results.
If you get the same then can you check for voltage to the coil? See if you have 12 volts at the connector when the car is in the run position.

1996 Plymouth Voyager Fuel System   

Car dies randomly, starts back up easily, usually but keeps doing it. It does it while driving, and when coming to a stop. I think it is probably the fuel filter but not sure where it is located and how to replace it.

On the pass side of the van, underneath about 1/2 way back. Easy to replace

We changed the fuel filter but the van continues to die it is getting worse, going uphill, downhill, just driving, HELP! We have changed the fuel pump got a tune up what else could it be?

Ther are so many sensors, you should get it scanned for codes (free at some parts places)
It might be a catalyctic converter getting plugged up. Midas can check that.

1995 Plymouth Voyager Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

The hazard lights do not work. I think I may have a bad or loose ground wire but I do not know where it is located. Could you tell me where to look for the ground wire for the hazards? Thank-you very much.

Hi;
Sounds like you got abad flasher unit. It should bve located in fuse panel. You should have two of them. To rule the turn signal flasher one out, just turn the turn signal on. You should be able to feel it clicking. The other one will be the flashers. The ground for the system is right begind the battery by the front headlight. Also check your fuses. Good Luck Les.

My boyfriend says that for this model there is a combination flasher turn signal unit, it is known as the "combination flasher". He has replaced that. Les, do you have any other ideas? Thanks

Hi;
Make sure it has not blown a fuse. It should be cavity number 1 and should be a 20 amp fuse. Thanks Les.

Les,the spot where the fuses go, under the hood, calls for a 15 amp fuse. We will stick with that. I am afraid if we put a 20 amp in we will overload some and something else will stop working. If only we didn't need this for our inspection sticker. Thanks for your help.

Hi:
Try that and let me know. Thanks Les.

1995 Plymouth Voyager Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

The van has stalled at stoplights a few times, so I had it looked at and I was told that it was probably a clogged filter somewhere, but they couldn't determine where until it broke-down. Today, I went to start it and it turns over, but doens't start. The plugs are sparking and the carburetor is getting fuel. I've had the timing belt replaced, so it's not that.

You have confirmed spark to all plugs.

You say the carburetor is getting fuel. It is not a carburetor, it is fuel injection, how have you determined there is fuel? You need fuel pressure (fuel pump functioning) and injector pulse ( this is electrical power to the injectors, provided by a direct feed of positive voltage with the negative feed 'pulsed' on and off by the computer.

Have you checked computer trouble codes? Simple to do, if you need instructions let me know. This is what I'd recommend first.

My husband smelled fuel after he took off the air filter, that was the determination for the fuel. Are you saying that it could still be the fuel pump? We don't know how to check the computer codes, does it require a special diagnostic tool?

No diagnostic tool required, if you leave your email address I'll send instructions.

Also please give your engine size.

1994 Plymouth Voyager Ignition System Hesitating When starting Always

When key is turned forward engine will turn but will take a while to start.Once started it runs really rough.I need to try to start the van several times because it will start run really rough then fall on its face even if i give it fuel it will still die.So I try again until it stays running once it idles by itself it will stay running. The only code I've gotten is a P1292 and all it says is to refer to service maual.

If you have a gasoline engine- Have you checked fuel pressure while the problem is present. This should be your starting point.

Use the following site to access a free repair guide, if you need one-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Check/replace as necesary, the ASD relay (auto shutdown). It may not be working properly.

1993 Plymouth Voyager Brake System Making Noise When braking Always

When pressing the brake pedal, there is a click/ticking noise that comes from the brake pedal area when braking. There is normal feel in the pedal and the vechile brakes fine. New pads (three months) in the front, and 80% rear. Does not happen when stopped, pumping, only when driving/braking.Tks

Do you only hear the clicking or actually feel it? And, this noise is actually from the pedal area and not the wheels/etc?

1993 Plymouth Voyager Drive Train / Driveline   

1993 Plymouth Voyager. While driving transmission started slipping and auto stopped. after it cooled off restarted and drove for awile and then slipped again is transmission Shot?

Unfortunatley, yes that is the most common Dodge overdrive symptom.Replacing these transmissions is quite an expensive and common problem.An alternative to rebuilding yours, would be one from an autowrecker. There are so many of these Chrysler minivans out there, that quite a few are in the wreckers with recently rebuilt trans. Good luck.

1993 Plymouth Voyager Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 3.3L engine in my 93 Plymonth Voyager with 153,000 miles. After the car is running for a few minutes I start hear a high pitch wineing noise coming from the transmission. This is not a constent sound though. The transmission will start dropping out of gear while driving, If I try to go from drive to reverse it takes some time to get into gear, just huvering in neutral. I changed the fluid and filter in April this year, and at that time nothing look unusual. Any help in diagnosting this would be appreciated.

You probably should pull the pan again and inspect the filter and look for debris.

If the transmission fluid was not changed regularly, you may have stirred up 'gunk' when you changed the fluid. It sounds like you are either losing line pressure or the valve body is hanging up. It may be worth trying a professional flush and fill (this will sometimes cure 'sticky' problems). If there is a mechanical problem, part replacement is the only cure.

I assume the fluid level is fine now.

Thank you, the filter change seems to have done the trick, it was clogged.

1993 Plymouth Voyager Engine   

stalls intermittently

This is a very vague question, but I will attempt to help you.

What engine do you have in your van?
Does it stall when it is hot, cold or warming up?
Does it stall when the van is idling, accelerating or braking?

Try to find some pattern of when it stalls.

It could be: dirty throttle body, fouled spark plugs, bad distributor, bad ASD relay, idle speed misadjusted, bad fuel pump, or some thing else.

Sterlingfixer

I beleive it's a 4 cylinder
when braking but not all the time....
It has been maintained reasonably well...
new rails - fuel injectors cleaned 2005
oil changed on schedule...
has aroundt 170k miles.

I would suggest a dirty throttle body, dirty PCV valve, base idle adjsutment or a dragging idle speed motor as the most likely culprits. Look at them in the order listed.
Sterlingfixer

Thanks...I'm going to act on your action list. What if I still have an issue?

Write back with the details of what you did and what you found, and I will advise further.

thank you

Talk to you later...

Have a great Christmas!...thanks again

How did it work out?
Sterlingfixer

Actually, I went out, started the van, reved the engine REAL good 4 or 5 times (after it warmed up)and the problem went away!

Have a good New Year!

WOW, That is easier than fixing cars!

1993 Plymouth Voyager Ignition System   

This has been going on for some time now - 3 months or so. On any given random day, though I must say mostly when it's damp outside, the car won't turnover as if the shift selector was in the "drive" position. Won't turnover in "neutral" either and then by some stroke of luck or miracle of 3 minutes or so, it finally turnsover and starts. I have some clues to what the problem could be but the list with ignition problems could be long right on down to a stuck starter. Today the car has decided it won't turnover at all on multiple tries throughout the day. My luck has now run out and it's time to correct the problem. Please help.

I will also add that all the ignition lights illuminate as normal...just won't turnover and start.

Do you hear a click from the starter when it won't turn over?

The starter or park/neutral switch is the most common failure.

Copy and Paste the following links into your address bar, note to click on links on the right side of the page to navigate the repair guide-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/cc/a[redacted] cca4/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/c1/3[redacted] c136/repairInfoPages.htm

Use it to study/test the starting circuit.

Never overlook battery, solenoid, ground, connections when you experience this type of failure.

No clicking just won't turnover. I'm pretty sure the starter is fine. I suspect it's the neutral safety switch and the cheapest fix just don't know where it is to change it. It's on the tranny somewhere I believe.

You will find it in the repair guide I sent. If you have a multimeter you can test switch to confirm it is bad.

Copy and paste the link below-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/ce/1[redacted] ce14/repairInfoPages.htm

If you have trouble with the link leave your email address and I'll send a link you can click on.

Okay. Replaced the neutral safety switch and get continuity on the center terminal in Park and Neutral only as I should be. Still no engine turnover? Disconnected "Positive" battery terminal to perhaps reset the computer. Still nothing. Direct email address is: [redacted]

PS: There is another 3 terminal switch about 3" to the left of the neutral safety switch that I just replaced and off the center terminal I got continuity in "Park" and "Drive L" only. I don't know if this was normal or not but I did notice that when I removed both switches (not knowing which one was which) the threads on the neutral safety switch were finer than than this other switch. For whatever that was worth.

What an idiot I am. It helps to reconnect the wiring for the Neutral Safety switch after you test for continuity. LOL. It started. Thanks for all your help.

1993 Plymouth Voyager Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

have disconnected power steering pump but can't get it out either through to top or the bottom. Help

Hello
Remove the belt tension adjusting bolt and the mounting bolt, and remove the pump. Hope this helps.
Heavychevy

1 Disconnect the power steering return hose from the remote reservoir or pump. Allow the fluid to drain from this hose into a drain pan. Discard the used fluid.
2 Loosen the bracket or belt tension adjusting bolt, and the pump mounting bolt.
3 Loosen the belt tension until the belt can be removed. On some cars, it is necessary to lift the vehicle on a hoist and gain access to the power steering pump from underneath the vehicle.
4 Remove the hoses from the pump, and cap the pump fittings and hoses.
5 Remove the belt tension adjusting bolt and the mounting bolt, and remove the pump.
6 Check the pump mounting bolts and bolt holes for wear. Worn bolts must be replaced. If the bolt mounting holes in the pump are worn, pump replacement is necessary.
7 Reverse steps 1 through 5 to install the power steering pump. Tighten the belt as described previously, and tighten the pump mounting and bracket bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. If o-rings are used on the pressure hose, replace the o-rings. Be sure the hoses are not contacting the exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, or exhaust pipe during or after pump replacement.
8 Fill the pump reservoir with the manufacturer's recommended power steering fluid, and bleed air from the power steering system as described earlier.

Sometimes if you remove the metal bracket at the front of the pump (it curves above and bolts to the head) it is easier to remove the pump.Look at the mounting hole locations on the new pump.Some times when you are tired, it is possible to miss one bolt! I hope that is not the case tonight! It comes out through the top, by the way.

It is not necessary to remove the bracket entirely, just loosen the bolts, so the pump can be wiggled out.

I have the 3.3L motor with a serpantine belt so there is no tension adjustment on the pump. Can you tell me how far down the alternator mounting braket goes? It looks as if the belt tensioner has to be removed as well and the alternator itself has to be removed from the bottom normally. The book did say the ps pump comes out through the top. Just can seem to get the space to wiggle it out though.

The alternator bracket is quite large,almost to bottom of engine, but just loosen the bolts, do not remove. Removing the tensioner might be a good time to inspect the bearing.

1993 Plymouth Voyager Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I have disconnected the power steering pump, taken off the hoses and have the pump free but cannot get it out of the engine compartment. Help. Short of removing the alternator braket (not sure how much is involved but looks like more than it should be) how is the ps pump suppose to come out?

hello
step 5 is the part you are looking for

1 Disconnect the power steering return hose from the remote reservoir or pump. Allow the fluid to drain from this hose into a drain pan. Discard the used fluid.
2 Loosen the bracket or belt tension adjusting bolt, and the pump mounting bolt.
3 Loosen the belt tension until the belt can be removed. On some cars, it is necessary to lift the vehicle on a hoist and gain access to the power steering pump from underneath the vehicle.
4 Remove the hoses from the pump, and cap the pump fittings and hoses.
5 Remove the belt tension adjusting bolt and the mounting bolt, and remove the pump.
6 Check the pump mounting bolts and bolt holes for wear. Worn bolts must be replaced. If the bolt mounting holes in the pump are worn, pump replacement is necessary.
7 Reverse steps 1 through 5 to install the power steering pump. Tighten the belt as described previously, and tighten the pump mounting and bracket bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. If o-rings are used on the pressure hose, replace the o-rings. Be sure the hoses are not contacting the exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, or exhaust pipe during or after pump replacement.
8 Fill the pump reservoir with the manufacturer's recommended power steering fluid, and bleed air from the power steering system as described earlier.

1992 Plymouth Voyager Engine Overheating When idling Always

I would like to know 1) where is the fan control sensor located? 2) do any of the electrical wires controling the use of the fan have a fuse that would prevent it from coming on? 3) is the only reason the fan doesn't come on due to the sensor? Thanks for your help!

there is a fan control relay that is triggered by the engine temp sensor.
that would prevent the fan from operating,a dead fan motor is another reason for non operation.
There is definately a fuse in line with the fan ,a bad fuse would also prevent the fan from operating

Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me where the sensor AND the fuse are located?

the fuse panel is usually located on the left side of the steering column either on the kick panel or the firewall.
the sending unit is normally located on the front topside of engine usually near the water outlet to the radiator

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, this problem is driving me nuts.

1) Does the temperature sending unit that relays the temperature to the gauge also control the fan? OR is there a seperate sensor for the fan and if so
where is it located?

2) You said that there is a fuse in line with the fan, all of the fuses in the fuse panal are good and the fan does not operate. Is that fuse located
somewhere else?

Thanks again!

-yes the thermostat would send power to the cooling fan relay control it is located in the engine compartment on the top of fender
did you disconnect the fan and shoot power straight to it to make sure it is not the fan?
it will run 12 volts possible that it is grounded and only needs a positive lead to the hot in

1992 Plymouth Voyager Engine Stalling Happens always Always

My 92 Plymouth Voyager started idling real bad, stalling and surging at idle, also getting bad spark knock when accelerating. I had the local autozone check codes, they told me it was the AIS Motor, replaced it absolutely no change. I looked up how to check codes and I think it's pulling a 32 code which is EGR valve, what can I do to check this? Can't even see it under the manifold.

Hello, Have you removed the engine cover inside the van for access? What code did Auto-Zone get?

I'll look for a trouble chart for the code 32 that you got.

What engine, please?,

Roger

Sorry I forgot to mention it's a 2.5L 4 cylinder. The code chart I have says EGR Valve is code 32. I am not sure I am reading it right. The light flashes once then a short hesitation and 2 flashes, then a long hesitation and 2 flashes.

I've got to get to a better data base. All Diagnostic Trouble codes are double digit. A flash then a short pause then two flashes would be 12. There is no code 12 so that must mean the system has entered diagnostic mode and codes will follow.

A 12 followed by a 2 would not be a code but an 11 is "NO REDFERENCE SIGNAL DURING CRANKING". Does your engine start? If it does then an 11 code would not factor because without a reference feedback that the engine is cranking the computer would not call for soark and fuel.

Do you know if you have Throttle Body Injection (TBI), or Multiport Fuel Injection (MPI)?

Roger

The autozone guy told me I was getting a 25 code which meant AIS Motor, I have replaced that. The light flashes the following: 1 flash, short hesitation, 2 flashes, long hesitation, 2 flashes, long hesitation, 1 flash, short hesitation, 5 flashes, long hesitation, 5 flashes.

The van will run, but won't idle most of the time, when it does idle it is very jerky. When you accelerate it smoothes out but you get a lot of spark knock. This didn't develop over time, it went from running fine one day to doing this the next morning.

I believe this is what it means:

Once you have cycled the key and entered diagnostic mode..

1. The Check Engine Light comes on for a short time, then goes out.
2. Two flashes, long hesitation, two flashes equals code 22.
3. Check Engine Light comes on for a short time to indicate the diagnostic readout cycle has ended.
4. Five flashes, long hesitation, five flashes indicates there are no other codes present.

Code 22 means the engine coolant temperature sensor feedback voltage is too high or too low. This would cause the computer to call for a wrong fuel mixture.

I'll get back to you later today when I can get access to a better data base. My grandson had surgery this morning and is doing great...

Roger

Roger
Hope your grandson is well, is there a way to test the coolant temp sensor, or is it just replace it and hope for the best?
Rich

I forgot to tell you it has throttle body single post fuel injection.

2.5L TBI, got it.

If you do not have a scanner so you can see parameter feedback data on computer monitored sensors you roll the dice. But first:

You might also try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes to clear codes and reset the computer. Then you can see if the condition repeats. There is always the chance that the wire that connects to the coolant temp sensor has come loose, or broken, roadent damage, or whatever.

The coolant temp sensor will screw into the engine intake manifold usually near the thermostat housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose.

Roger

I tried what you suggested, disconnected the battery, while I waited I checked the connection/wires at the sender by the thermostat. They appear to be ok. Is this the same sender that operates the the temp gauge in the dash? The gauge seems to work ok.

Yes, it should be the same sending unit for the dash gauge.

Here is where a scanner is so helpful because it can look at the coolant temp data the computer monitors in real time. The gauge can look normal, but what does the computer "see" and to what end does it process the data?

The scanner also lets the user look at every sensor the computer monitors.

Did the code clear? Any change in the running of the engine?

Sorry for the delay, it's been a demanding day for me.

Roger

No change in the way it runs, should I have checked to see if the code cleared before I ran the engine? I didn't think of that I just hooked the battery back up and started it.

I'm trying to start over in my thinking. One thing that bugs me is that Autozone told you you had a AIS Motor problem and you said you replaced it with no result of improvement. You ststed you have a 2.5L TBI engine. My research data base says that the 2.2L engine uses AIS.

Can you shed some light on this, please?

Roger

The Haynes book calls it an AIS Motor, but Autozone had it in their computer under another name. It is on the front of the throttle body. I changed it at any rate, with no difference. I am going to try changing the temp sensor today.
Will let you know what happens.
Rich

Okay, See the AIS stands for "Air Injection System" but perhaps you replaced the ISC known as the "Idle Speed Control" motor.

Do you have a friend or family member that has access to a scan tool? That would really be useful.

Meantime, I'm going back to the City today for research and I'll look for a trouble chart for running/idling rough and stalling/surging symptoms.

Has your engine ran long enough to set a code and illuminate the Check Engine light?

Roger

Changed the temp sensor, no luck. And the same code was still in the computer after having the battery disconnected all night.
Don't know anybody with a scan tool, and can't afford $300 to buy one anywhere around here.

Couldn't get the engine to start today at all, cranks over ok, acts like a carburated engine that is flooded.
Nothing I tried so far has changed anything about the codes it is showing. Any way to take the computer out and have it tested?

What codes are you getting today, if any?

I don't know of any way to bench test the computer. Everyone just wants to sell you one. It would be great if you could swap your computer with another vehicle to see if the problem moves to the other vehicle.

The scan tool I'm talking about costs thousands. It is not a code reader but rather an interactive computer that can query your vehicle's computer for info. Believe me, my neighbors know I have one and they are not shy...

Back soon,

Roger

Any new ideas today?????

Since it won't start let's go back to basics.

Do you have spark and fuel pressure?

Roger

Yes and Yes, although I am not sure of how much fuel pressure. Some of the troubleshooting flow charts I have seen have suggested a possible problem with the fuel pressure regulator or the injector. I am an old school carberator man, This is the first injected vehicle I have owned (and maybe the last). I was planning on checking to see if it may have slipped a tooth on the timing belt on my next day off (Thursday).

You have a point about the timing could be off. Don't go sour on fuel injection. It is here to stay.

You may want to locate the engine control module and see if it smells like the printed circuit has burned. I just had a question on a 1994 Dodge Shadow that had spark and fuel but the computer board had a bad capacitor and it would not start....

How old is the timing belt? Does the engine crank at normal speed? Can you do a compression test?

Roger

Engine cranks at normal speed, you can feel engine trying to catch when you hold gas pedal to floor. Sometimes it starts, idles real bad and stalls when put in gear. As far as I know the timing belt is origional.

I brought #1 piston to TDC on crompression stroke, rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire on distributor, I removed the plug from the timing cover and the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is there. When I turn the crank with a wrench I don't notice any hesitation in the rotor movement, but it almost feels like there is some movement of the crank before the camshaft sprocket moves, maybe stretched/loose belt?

OK, I may have it figured out. I got the top half of the timing cover off where I could see the camshaft sprocket, when the #1 piston is at TDC and the timing mark on the crank is where it should be, the mark on the camshaft sprocket is not where it should be. It is off by about 1 tooth width. There is also more play in the timing belt than 5/16" as the book calls for. I think my timing belt has slipped.

I guess I know what to do from here.

I believe you have located the problem. Had a compression test been completed you would have had very low readings because the engine is out of time. When it is time for the cylinders to fire the valves are not closed.

Do you want/need instructions for replacing the belt?

Roger

I think I am finally into an area I know about, I have a Haynes manual on the vehicle with pretty clear instructions on how to do it, and I've changed timing belts and chains on other vehicles before. If you know of any tricks on changing one in a Voyager please pass them along. I most likely won't get to work on it again until my next day off, the weather has turned nasty today and I am working outside. I will let you know how it turns out or if I need any questions answered.
Thanks
Rich

All right I'll just stand by. I don't have any wonderful tricks except I wear mechanic's gloves I buy from Lowe's for $10/pr to keep the blood in my body!

I get to do timing chain and gears on a Buick Park Ave Monday :)

Roger

Roger

I have a quick question for you, Behind the crakshaft pulley and in front of the sprocket there is a black spacer, any ideas on getting it to come off? I can't see the timing mark on the crank sprocket with it on and it doesn't seem too anxious to come off.

Did you remove the water pump pulley? There is a screw on the lower cover that cannot be seen unless you do.

Do you want me to fax or email some pics? Just say where.

Roger

I have the cover off, I have the crankshaft and waterpump pulleys off. Once I got the pulleys and the cover off, on the end of crankshaft it appears to have a black spacer that the pulley bolts all went through. How does the spacer come off? Or doesn't it?
Also, I know how the marks are supposed to line up on the sprockets, but with the engine in sideways how can you see them?

Are you wanting to replace the crankshaft sprocket with the gear teeth that the belt fits onto? That sproket requires a puller to remove. Chrysler calls it Special Tool Holder C-4685, 10mm Screw C4685-B2 and Insert C-4685-C2.

Installation of the sproket requires an Install Tool 12mm Screw C-4685-C1 with Thrust Bearing and Washer Plate L-4524-4.

You may be able to rent these tools at a car parts store.

Removal of the right front wheel and the right front inner splash shield should allow you to see the timing marks on the gears. Sometimes a mirror is the answer.

Any help?,

Roger

What the...? It appears my reply came to me instead of being sent to you, Rich. Is this question over, released for others to answer...??? Did you receive it anyway?

Roger

Roger
I am not sure what happened, I am not done, nor have I released the question. Your help has been invaluable to me.I was asking about what appears to be a spacer between the crankshaft pulley and sprocket. I am not wanting to remove the sprocket. I can't seem to get the spacer thing to budge, but I also can't see the alignment mark on the sprocket with it on there. If I have the #1 piston at TDC and the timing light mark is in the correct location does that put the crankshaft in the correct position to line up the intermediate shaft to it?
Is this making any sense?
Rich

Will your ISP provider tolerate a large email file? I'd like to send some good pics and info that may help. If you could use/receive a fax instead,I can do that too. No extra charge.

I can't see on the parts exploded view what you are saying appears to be a spacer. Just the sprocket that requires a puller to remove as it is keyed to the crankshaft and pressed on with an install tool.

Having the #1 piston at TDC brings the crankshaft very close to having the timing marks aligned. But, you could be just one sprocket tooth off and have problems. You must see the marks lined up to be confident the engine will run. Can you see the cam alignment mark OK?

Roger

Roger
You can send anything you may have that will help to me at [redacted] Pictures are no problem I have a DSL hookup. I could take a picture of what I am talking about and send it if you would like.
Rich

I'll send you some pages to review. First I'll have to scan to email. Once you get it use the return address to send a pic if you will. I can't post my email addy on this site. (All Parts Policy)

Roger

Time-out! My printer is out of black ink. I'll eat supper then switch out printers (I have another but it's not connected) and retry.

Roger

OK Rich, Please look over the three attachments I sent to your email and tell me if it helps.

Thanks,

Roger

Roger
Very helpful, the thing I thought was a spacer appears to be the front of the crankshaft sprocket (looks just like what was in the first picture). I guess I just need to find the timing mark on it.
I may try your idea about a mirror.
Thanks
Rich

Look at the third page I sent. Notice how the arrows point to timing marks on the intermediate shaft gear and the crankshaft sprocket. You are looking for a dot stamped into the outside surface of the crankshaft sprocket. When the crankshaft is in the correct position this dot will be at the two o'clock position. Wash the sprocket with brake cleaner to remove anything that may be masking the timing dot/mark.

The intermediate shaft sprocket timing mark will be positioned at the eight o'clock position and at the closest posible to the crankshaft sprocket dot.

The cam timing mark goes at the twelve o'clock position.

When all these marks are positioned as described/illustrated the timing belt can be fitted. The belt will have marks that coincide with all the gear's marks as well.

Roger

How is it going here??

Thanks,

Roger

Roger
Have had a string of interuptions in working on the van, between bad weather, a knee injury and a gall bladder attack it has not been worked on since my last message. I am back on my feet and planning to work on it tomorrow. Will let you know what I get accomplished.
Thanks
Rich

Yikes! I pray for your complete recovery. Don't worry about me, I don't want to lose the pulse of the repair.

Regards,

Roger

1992 Plymouth Voyager Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

the fuel pump comes on its new & filter changed. getting fire to plugs. getting fuel to the injecters. i pulled the fuel rail to wacth the spray pattern. the injecters were baerly spraying.all 6. will run on starting fluid until it burn all off. some said something about a fuel reset swicth i didnt see it any where.

Fords commonly have a fuel reset or intertia switch, Chrysler products do not.

You need to start by checking for any troublecodes in the computer. Use the following link for a repair guide that'll contain instructions.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Beyond trouble codes you'll need to verify adequate fuel pressure and injector pulse to the fuel injectors with what is called a noid light. If you have no injector pulse, check for (ignition key ON) positive voltage to one terminal of the injectors (with the other lead to known good ground). This will let you know if you are losing the [always On] postive voltage to the injectors or the negative 'pulse' supplied by the computer. Let me know what your find.

1992 Plymouth Voyager Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My wipers just quit working what do I need to check?

Start by checking the fuse.

If the fuse is okay, check for Key ON & Wipers ON HIGH, voltage to the wiper motor. If you have power to the wipers but they do not operate the wiper motor needs replacing. Compare the price of a new wiper motor to a used one (preferably with at least a 30 day warranty).

The fuses are not marked. Could you tell me which one is for the wipers. It is 10° outside to cold to be out checking all of them.

Check fuse #5 (may be 20 amp) and #6 (10 amp).

1991 Plymouth Voyager All Part Groups Stalling When driving No pattern

In the last few months my old Voyager van started to die when I'm driving down the highway. Sometimes it restarts before I coast to a stop (if it is in gear). times I have to pull off to the side of the road. I put it in neutral and ususally it starts right up using the starter. The ignition switch does not have to be turned all of the way off for it to restart.

Most of the times it restarts immediately, but a few times it has taken 5-10 minutes of cranking to get it going. This has happened in all kinds of weather, hot and cold, at slow and fast speeds. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of predictablility to it. Any ideas? It is getting progressively worse with time. It happened very rarly at first, but now it dies nearly everyday as I'm driving to work or driving home. It's very frustrating. I almost wish it would just quit so I could figure out what is wrong with it.

Thanks for your advice!!

I should also mention that normally the van runs great. There is no chugging or warning that it is about to die. It just goes dead. Once it restarts it runs great again. The radio and all electrical that I can see remains on when the engine dies. Any ideas?

Which engine?

And check the troublecodes. It's very esasy to do. Follow the instructions in the link below. Let me know the numbers of the troublecodes!
Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste the following link into you Address bar-

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-99.htm

1990 Plymouth Voyager Engine Stalling When driving When warm 

I have had the engine die after it has warmed and while driving. It happens when the van has come to a stop and possibly while it is downshifting to low gear. After setting for a while and cooling off, it will restart and continue to run until the whatever heats up again and then it quits again. The fuel pump and every thing still functions while in the stall mode, the only thing that is inop is the ignition. I have replaced the coil pack, the plugs, plug wires, and coolant temp. senser. It still does the same thing.It does not throw a code when it quits as I have had a professional scanner attached when it happens. HELP ! ! ! ! !

Have you checked the pick up coil (hall effect sensor) in the distributor.

You said the fuel pump and everything still function, do you have injector fire?

Does the check engine light turn on when you turn the key to the on/run position (as it normally does) during no start?

This engine has no distributer, it functions with a cam sensor and crank sensor, and I have not noticed if the check engine light comes on or not. I will bring the system to a stall mode and check the light status. During rhe time when the scanner was hooked to the system, it showed all systems GO. It did not throw a code on anything.

Is this a Grand Voyager with a 3.3L engine?

Yes, it is a Grand Voyager with a 3.3 Litre engine. I have full function of all systems when the stall occures except the spark. I have turned the engine over with a new plug in the plug wire and the plug grounded to the block and get no spark. I am now considering replacing the crank position sensor. It seems to me that there must be a number of 90 vans that have had this same problem. I just need to get to someone that has fixed one.

Test the crank sensor before replacement. There is a simple way to do this, heat the engine until the no spark condition appears. Then chill the crank sensor. Component cooler (a product that evaporates very guickly), ice shavings, or even very cold water, etc. Once you have cooled the sensor down in a timely manner try to start the engine. If it starts the results of this test are compelling enough to replace the sensor.
Also check to see if the sensor is tight and the electrical connector/wires are in satisfactory condition.
It is not uncommon to have component failure fail to set a troublecode. This is especially true with the crank sensor. Another thing to keep in mind for future reference is that troublecodes can be misleading, more so to those without experience with them.
By the way, crank sensor failure is common. But it's very important to diagnose problems to avoid replacing good parts.
Good luck, and be sure to let me know what you find.

1990 Plymouth Voyager Engine   

3.3 liter v-6..102,000 miles.. good condition.. gas in tank... fuel pump makes usual audible cycle up... but engine wont catch..unit has port fuel injection..pour some fuel in pelenium.. engine will catch..n will run till fuel is gone..this is second time this has happened..so im sure its not fuel filter.. what ya think?

Fuel filter is a possability, and relatively simple to replace.Check for pressure ar the diagnostic port on the engine.If you have pressure there then you might have an issue that the injectors not opening.
Check for codes.Turn key on-off three times (not to start position) leaving key on, and count the sequences that the check engine light flashes.For example: 2 pause 3, 5 pause 5.

ok.. gonna go getta fuel filter..in the mean time.. i ran the code test.. 15 flashes..hope this means something

ok.. now that i read ur text back correctly.. heres the code i got.. after bout 5 cycles this is what it flashes.. 1-2-1-1-5-5

well just replaced a perfectly good fuel filter..0 well.. tried the fuel in the pelenium trick again. 2 c if.. just if .. it would catch.. hmm now nothing.. engine doesnt catch.. arggg.. once again the code its flashing is 1-2-1-1-5-5.. n it seems to me that it was flashing a differnt code when i first reread ur message n looked for pauses.. well hope 2 hear from ya soon..

Ok
55 means end of test
12 means battery or computer recently disconnected
11 is the one to be concerned with
it means no ignition reference detected during cranking
or timing belt skipped tooth
or loss of crankshaft or camshaft signal
(bad or disconnected sensor)
To test timiing belt, remove cover and inspect.If you can turn engine over untill #1 piston at top dead center, the timing mark on bottom pulley should be at the zero mark.
To test the sensors, you will require a digital volt/ohm meter

sounds good..it'l take me bout 15 min's 2 chk tdc.. n i have a volt/ohm meter.. so whats the sensor test?

ok we good on tdc..

most sensors operate on .5 volts and if they have zero continuity, they are bad.The test should be made with a digital meter, not analog.

hey buddy.. imma old school mechanic.. ive got a 1000 hp hemi road runner in my garage.. n my daily driver is a slant 6 motor.. i avoid computers on cars for this very reason.. n i use the best tools..hence i have a digital volt/omh meter.. once again.. which sensors do i test?.. thx

The crankshafr pos sensor usually located on the transaxle bellhousing, some times the cam pos sensor located in the dist.
Old school? I own 22 cars/trucks including an 8:71 blown big block 56, a GTO Judge and a Black 4 speed Galaxy. I am 50 yrs old...ha ha old school 'nuff?
Although a Roadrunner and a Super Bee has been in the 'fleet', the only Mopar is a 340 Duster, but it is nice one! Any photos?
[redacted]

okies there buddy..gonna get right on those sensors..thx.. yup ur good as long as ur not 1 of those tuner turkeys..seems every week they gotta come n prove technlogy is tougher than tourqe..thx again..oh yeah.. i got 4 pictures scanned before the scanner stopped workin..i sure do need to get a digital camera..lol

I work for one of Canada's largest Speed Shops, so we do old stuff and I have to know new stuff too, in order that I survive!
Some people 'test' sensors by replacing them, if they are cheap enough.
I watch some of those 'tuner' cars at the track here, while they are sometimes fast, they seldom last long!

rgr that buddy on the sensors..hadda relapse yesterday so didnt do much..had all my upper teeth pulled last week... sux bro..and i understand survivmg buddy..i might have to sell the car i grew up with.. my road runner..:( its come to this before but its always survived the choppin block.. gotta get this van runnin..

Ouch! Got the hemi pics NICE! I will send you a few of my only Mopar, since the Super Bee is gone now.

awsome buddy ! we should msn each other n we can tell some tall ones.. actully dont got any tall ones but got some hairy ones.. when the tourqe unloads wrong outta the slicks wrong.. OMG ! well good n bad news... lol..he he..was drivin in the dippy.. n saw a guy wrenchin ona nice gnx..so i stopped like i always do.. n was chattin with him.. saw he hadda 91 dynasty along side his garage..asked him if it ran cuz it was kinda dusty.. he said yeah.. was his x ole ladies car.. n he didnt care for mopars.. scince i noticed this guy had this car tweaked includin dot street slicks.. i asked him if he wanted to sell it.. he said sure.. i asked how much.. he said hows 4 hundred sound?.. i sez sounds fair..then i sez.. well scince u think mopar aint got much.. how bout we race fer it..he sez what u gotz?.. i sez.. 69 roadrunner..he sez what u gotz in it.. i sez thats for me to know n u to find out.. he goes well that aint fair you know what i gotz.. i sez i would know what u got regaurdless cuz this isa a gnx.. n seein ur tires i figure u gotz 500 + horse.. tryin to (puff up his ego a little..:) )..so i sez how bout u look at it n hear it.. n u can decide.. if not ill give ya the four hundred n ill knoww ur scared of mopars!.. (ewwwwww eeeee that gotem..lol ).. he goes is it street legal.. n i sez u bettya..hes sez lets go see.. he follows me.. we get there.. i leave the headers capped.. fire it up.. n he aint lookin anything but those massive slicks on the roadrunner..i just grin at him n say.. i use those so i dont get wheel.. spin ! heres the part where u call me a liar.. cuz the guy goes sure.. lol.. i almost fell over bro.. short of runnin outta gas.. me diein at the startin line.. this deal was done..so we race.. he finished bout 5 car lengths back.. n after he sez to me.. when hes writein out the bill of sale n title.. you know.. i gotta be honest.. ive heard ur car was quick.. but never thought you'd get me outta the whole like that.. im like umm err aaahh.. ok..lol.he sez to me that he wanted to run me when hed heard about my car but couldnt see puttin up the 5 hundred i normally race for..so he asks me again.. what ya runnin?.. n i sez..THATS FOR ME TO KNOW N YOU TO FIND OUT !.. true story bro.. just happened..lol well.. between that day i first saw him n yesterday.. i got with my parts guy.. come to find out ALL the parts on both 3.3's r interchangeble for the most part.. so i swap the computer n coil.. on both vehicles.. well the dynasty is still runnin.. n the van aint.. with the dynasty parts in it.. so i think i see where the crank sensor is. is it a little rubber lookin sorta plug on the top back on the transmission side?..thx buddy.. hey my msn messenger addy is [redacted] if you ever wanna hook up sometime.. cya laters buddy!

my msn add. is [redacted]

rgr..got ya added.. by the way.. the van lives !.. thx a bunch my friend...turns out an orange wire got pulled out of a plug somehow....hmm.. but thx for ur time n effort !

1990 Plymouth Voyager Fuel System   

A while back my Van cut out while on the road, and I coasted to a place which just happened to be a guy that worked on cars on the side. He diagnosed it as being the coil and replaced it. The van ran great for a few days and then it got harder to start. Sometimes I would have to cycle the ignition two or three times before it would start. The trouble code is 27 which states there's high resistance in the injector circuit
At present I do not hear the fuel pump running while cranking, nor do I hear it run momentarly when I first turn on the ignition. I have dropped the tank and checked the pump and wiring to the plug in front of the left rear wheel. I have a ground on the front part of the harness and power goes through the hot lead back to the rear. My questions are how likely would it be that the black relay is shot, and or where else should I look to find the problem, and could I hot wire the fuel pump for testing purposes.
Thanks Rick

Yes you could hotwire it for test purposes. There is a relay under the hood for fuel pump and a specific fuse.

Is the fuse located in the fuse panel, or somewhere under the hood. I don' t have the layout for the fuses in the panel.

Not sure where,but the relay is the last one (firewall end) of the panel of relays beside battery. Also called the ASD relay, I believe its smaller than the others

Well I'm not quite sure what it was exactly, but I got it running. As near as I can tell it was a matter of a poor connection at the relay, or at the four wire connector in front of the left rear wheel. For anyone that might encounter the same type of problem, I'd suggest disconnecting the relay and running a jumper from the power terminal to the fuel pump lead and then climbing under to the connector and check both the power supply and the ground. I ended up squeezing the hollow pin connectors in order to get a good connection. I also sealed everything up with a good layer of silicone.

Good plan, moisture and corrosion always a problem. Battery near...another corrosion problem

Thanks for the help. Rick

1989 Plymouth Voyager Fuel System Stalling Happens always Always

Car will run for several seconds then dies. Will restart immediately with same result. Have changed fuel pump, fuel filter, had injector checked at a shop and is good. Fuel flow is good and strong visually, return lines are clear, in tank return line is not kinked. Trouble code is 12, but could have been from a dead battery condition several weeks ago. Am back to where I started. No improvement. When car runs timing is good. Also did a tune up and oil change recently. Thanks, Steve

Hi;
You did not state what engine size? Most likely it will be your fuel pump relay. Good Luck Les.

1989 Plymouth Voyager Drive Train / Driveline Slipping Happens always Always

WAS DRIVING AND ALL OF A SUDDEN MY 1989 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER TRANSMISSION STARTED SLIPPING.....NOW THE VAN BARELY MOVES

...IF I LET SIT FOR 10 MINUTES, THEN GEAR 1, GEAR SMALL D AND REVERSE GEAR MAKES IT MOVE FOR A BLOCK OR TWO THEN IT SLIPS AND DOESN'T MOVE ANYMORE UNLESS i WAIT ANOTHER 10-20 MINUTES.SAME THING...IT GOES A LITTLE WAYS BUT THEN STARTS SLIPPING 100 %...GEAR SELECTION "BIG D" DOESN'T WORK AT ALL ANY LONGER.....THE TRANNY FLUID LOOKS LIKE IT IS WAY OVER THE "FULL LINE" ..BUT I NEVER PUT ANY ADDITIONAL FLUID IN THE TRANNY AND IT WAS FINE BEFORE AND AT THE PROPER FLUID LEVEL AT THE PROPER TEMPERATURE READING....IS THE TRANNY BAD OR IS THE FILTER PLUGGED OR ARE THE BANDS OUT OF ADJUSTMENT ???PLEASE HELP

Yes, unfortunatly the transmission is bad.
For the Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager, that was the biggest problem.Find a good used trans or a reputable builder.

Thanks Bruce...I believe your right.

Rob

I had a friend who owned one, the same year, and while he was on vacation, the trans quit, 200 kns past the warranty period....

1989 Plymouth Voyager Drive Train / Driveline   

I am having problems with my transmission. When it shifts it shifts great. no slipping. no funny noises. but out of nowhere it wouldnt shift out of first or second this morning. it didnt even try. i got in it this afternoon and it worked fine again. the tranny only has 20 k on it but the van has 196k on it

Always check the fluid level when you experience a transmission problem.

Did you get any check engine light when the problem occured?

I think second gear is default gear for the transmission. When this happens shut the engine off and restart to see if the problem goes away (hopefully it don't come back and this is not an issue).

I have fluid in there, its hard to read though. i check it once it reads high and then i check it again it reads low. there is no check engine light on. i also forgot to tell you that when im sitting up hill it slips out of gear and goes to neautral sometimes

Is there any warranty on the transmission? There is an internal problem for sure if it slips out of gears on hills.

no there is not. it only does it when i am stopped. is that normal when the fluid reads low then high on the stick? i used to work at an oil change shop so i know the basic skills. one of my buddies at work also said it could be a mix between my linkage and my tranny module. cause when it slips out i have to jiggle the lever for it to go back in. but like i said when it shifts it shifts nice. there is no warranty on it cause it was rebuilt in 99 and it used to be driven in summers only.

Oh, definitely check the shift linkage. Look for unusual looseness. Check this and get back to me.

will do

i checked the linkage and everything is tight. i checked the fluid again with my dad and he thinks its about a quart low. the fluid is still red but it has bubbles

i got her fixed. it was a quart and a half low. thats why it was foamy and not reading right. thatnks for the help

That is great news! Caravans and Voyagers of this vintage have a history of transmission failure, great to hear you were just a low on fluid.

1988 Plymouth Voyager Engine   

Engine hesitates runs rough when partly warmed up. When cold it runs fine, then runs rough, then runs fine when fully warmed up. Changed thermostat, air charge sensor, coolant sensor, replaced hose in fuel vapor recovery. Please reply to bnedell@hotmail.com. I am out of ideas and frustrated by this. Thank you Brian Dell.

It's likely the map sensor, pick-up coil in the distributor, or the fuel injector considering what you have already replaced.

Any check engine light while the engine is running?

Which engine do you have?

I have already replaced MAP sensor. Engine is 6 cyl 3-litre. No check engine light, nor any computer diagnostics. If I drive somewhere and the engine goes through its warm up hesitations, and finally runs smoothly, then if I stop and park for a while and the engine cools, it sometimes repeats its hesitation when I drive it again. That's why I think the problem is temperature related. There appears to be a temperature that gives trouble, below this and above it the engine runs smoothly. That's why I started with all sensors temperature sensitive. The time it takes from a cold start to hesitation varies with the weather. With warm weather it starts sooner, with cool weather the hesitation starts much later in the trip, sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
Thank you for your help so far. best regards, Brian.

Next move on to ignition components. Solid state devices, such as the distributor electronics are most prone to failure at varying temperatures.

Sorry I missed your reply. I keep an eye out for your reply.