Pontiac Bonneville

2002 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

I HAVE THE DASH APART AND RADIO OUT. I HAVE THE 2 BOLTS OUT OF THE IGNITION SWITCH AND THE REAR SWITCH SUPPORT MOVED. I STILL CAN'T REMOVE THE ENTIRE SWITCH ASSY. FROM THE DASH BECAUSE OF A BLACK CIRCULAR PIECE ON THE FRONT OF THE IGNITION SWITCH WHERE YOU INSERT THE KEY. THE HOLE IN THE DASH IS TO SMALL TO GET IT THROUGH. I HAVE NOT REMOVED THE TUMBLER PART OF THE IGNITION SWITCH ALSO.

To replace the Theft Deterrent Exciter Module from the ignition lock cylinder housing the ignition lock cylinder must first be removed.

Please tell me what problem you are trying to fix? I'll do my best to send how to instructions to an email address you provide.

Thanks,

Roger

Roger,
I have a no crank problem. I can wait 2-3 minutes after I turn the key on and the engine cranks and runs.
My security system in the ignition key assy. is bad. The key needs to relearn the codes to start, So I'm replacing the key assy.

What is your email address please? I want to send you some instructions from a data base to see if it will get you on track with parts removal.

Roger

[redacted]

Message is on the way. If not in your inbox look also in junk/spam mail. Subject line reads "Pontiac". Will this help you?

Please advise,

Roger

2001 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm 

While driving at a steady speed the car will suddenly stumble and stall.

About two times out of three when this happens, instead of stalling the tach will flat line (and stay that way until the next restart) and the engine will smooth out.

Supercharger boost guage flutters during stumble.

Seems like it may happen more often when entering a slight curve or incline. Feels like engine would like to down shift just before the stumble.

Dealer has been "Unable to replicate problem presentation."

Dealer suspected possilbe problem with crankshaft rotation sensor since the computer showed a single instance of malfunction there.

Dealer tested by tapping sensor with a screw driver handle while engine was running and could not get engine to stall.

Service Manager said, "Run it till it quits and then bring it in so that we can fix it."

Thanks guys -- I appreciate any thoughts you might have.

Hello, Which engine 3.8L Supercharged? How many miles on this car please? Did the dealer road test the car and ever experience the fault? Was the GM TECH II Scanner used to monitor the engine sensors while driving?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello Roger,

The car is the SSEI with the supercharged engine. (Only engine available when I bought the car two years ago, so I'm assuming it is the 3.8)

Mechanic took the car out on two consecutive days and drove on both freeway and on a rough and bumpy country road -- the mechanic was unable to get the car to stumble or stall.

I don't know whether or not the the GM TECH II Scanner used to monitor the engine sensors while he was driving the car or not.

Koonz Pontiac is one of the larger dealers in the mis-atlantic region, and the block rep works there; so I would guess that the mechanic must have had access to a very good set of diagnostic tools -- but whether he used them or not I don't know.

Thanks,

Phil

I'll look into Technical Service Bulletins that may apply. I have several contacts to make as I stir the facts for clues.

I can quickly tell you that without duplicating the complaint we are fishing. I'm not after your money, sir. As an ASE Certified Master Technician I have thirty years experience with automotive and aircraft repair. 24 of those years at just two GM dealerships.

The TECH II Scanner is a marvelous tool. One can read several sensors at once, bank misfire history reports for weeks and many other valuable tests. But, you must use it with determination and duplicate the complaint to make a professional diagnosis. I wouldn't road test without it and I prefer my customer go along when possible.

The TECH II is a required tool for GM Dealers. It is upgradeable and does not drop the "oldest" model information to make room for the "newest" so, it applies to all GM vehicles using the OBD II Technology 1996 to present.

Does the amount of fuel in the tank factor here? How many miles on this car?

As best you can, try to record key events like you've stated such as entering a slight curve or incline or the like. Another suggestion is that you drive while the tech uses the scanner. That way he can work the scanner without having to split his attention with driving duties. Take the shop foreman for the drive if you can.

Your time is valuable and you may not want to be riding around for these tests. Some shops have more time for long road tests on Saturdays. You can tell by the number of miles driven how diligent an effort has been made toward duplicating the event.

Anyone can say "tow it in when it craters and we'll fix it!" This is not Vo-Tech 101. Hang in there.

Roger

Hello Roger,

The car has 52,000 miles.

The amount of fuel in the tank does not seem to be a variable, since the problem has occurred when the tank is nearly full and when it is as low as ¼.

About an hour ago I was sitting parked with the heater running talking with a friend and we felt the engine give a little shudder, and when I turned on the dash lights, sure enough: The tach was dead.

This is the first time the problem has occurred while sitting with the engine idling.

However, that may be more a reflection that this is the first time is has been cold enough to sit and run the heater since the problem first started happening last July.

I burn hi-test gas, and usually fill up at Shell or Exxon.

When the engine dies, it is all at once, with no sputtering like I would expect if it were a fuel starvation problem.

(But my experience with cars dates back to when I worked in my dad’s garage when I was a teenager. So I don’t have much of a feel for current generation engine technology.)

Once it happened just as I was starting to pass a car, and as I stepped down slightly to pass the shudder deepened and the whole car shook. I quickly took my foot off the gas and saw the tach at zero as the engine smoothed back out.

Sometimes I can re-start the engine while coasting to the side of the road, but twice I have had to come to a complete stop, shut off the ignition and wait a few seconds before the engine would re-start.

Back in July shortly after the problem started there were two or three occasions when I returned from shopping and the car wouldn’t start. Both times I had all but given up and was ready to call AAA when I decided to wait a couple of more minutes and give it one last try – at which point it started right up and ran smoothly.

The battery is good and spun the starter quite strongly, but there wasn’t the faintest hint of spark.

At the time I thought it was all part of the same problem, but the non-starting issue hasn’t recurred for more than two months now, so perhaps the events were unrelated.

Thanks,

Phil

2001 Pontiac Bonneville Engine   

My car (Bonneville SSEI)suddenly wouldn't idle and kept stalling like the fuel filter was plugged. Had to keep the rpm up in order to run at a red light. It also started shifting funny. One I stopped the car and restarted 30 minutes later, it ran fine but the supercharger boost pressure guage no longer functions. The car also has some black exhaust if I step on it like it's too rich now. Can the mass air flow sensor cause this? The service engine light does not come on. Does the computer take over if the mass airflow sensor fails?

Sounds to me like you may have a vacuum leak. Look for hoses that may have become disconnected, or other places for vacuum leaks. Likely the check engine light will be on in a few days with a lean or rich code.

The mass air meter could cause this, or a vacuum leak can make the mass airflow sensor read wrongly. If the readings are too far out, the computer will turn on the service engine light and enter a preset value or the mass airflow sensor reading. If it is off only a little, the computer will read the oxygen sensor to fine tune the fuel mixture and will memorize the new settings. If it is more than 25% off, it will light the service engine lamp.

I found a vacuum hose that was off a tee connection. I connected it back and sealed it. The car runs better than ever now. Thank you for your help.

Great!

2001 Pontiac Bonneville Interior Components   

I am trying to install a remote starter and have to get access to ignition switch wire harness. Can you please advise me on how to get to the wireing. THANKS,jnreceiver@yahoo,com

Hello, The ignition electrical switch is on the top of the steering column case just below the dash.

Remove the close out panel under the driver's side of the dash. You will find a bundle of wires coming down from on top of the steering column.

There are turn signal, wiper switch, cruise control, air bag, radio control, and ignition switch wires all coming from the column. The ignition switch wires are the largest size wires.

Turn signal, and wiper switch wiring are flat and molded in their respective harnesses. Air bag wiring harness is encased in a yellow sleeve.

Be careful selecting the correct harness.

Roger

1999 Pontiac Bonneville Engine Malfunction Happens always No pattern

On my 99 Bonneville the temp gauge is creeping higher. Hasn't gotten over 200 yet but never used to run over about 150. During this same time period the volt gauge has creeped down. Again not enough to be a problem but still not right.
I have replaced the belt (serpentine) with no change, the tensioner still feels good, had the battery and alternator tested, first it said the battery was bad and the alt showed 12.8 about 15 minutes later the battery showed good and alt 14. Any ideas and do ou think they are related or seperate problems occuring at the same time.
Oh yeah, this all started right about we ad an ice storm I noticed it was very slow turning over shortly after that is when I noticed the gauges. The battery is a 60 month battery about 2-3 years old.

It may be time for a new thermostat, I assume it has never been changed.

Are you saying the engine was running and the voltage only registered 12.8? Then fifteen minutes later the voltage climbed to 14? If the engine was running and voltage was 12.8 it was not charging, because 12.8 is considered normal voltage with the engine off.

Did the engine ever crank slow again? Does it crank slow after it has been sitting overnight?

Keep a close eye on the coolant level as these engines are known to develope a coolant leak in the intake manifold.

The first readings (12.8 & bad battery) was with the engine off the second set with the engine running. It only cranks slow when it is around freezing Itcranks fine in the morning but the volt gauge registers about 8 for a few seconds then it will kick up to 14. It will gradually come down as the temp goes up. No I've watched this closely for about 3 weeks now and the coolant level has remained constant.

Okay install a new thermostat and see if there is a change. You would actually need to use a thermometer to verify a change in coolant temperatures.

Use a voltmeter and measure the battery voltage on a cold morning, or any morning for that matter (after the car has sat for many hours). See if the voltage is low. Alternatively, leave a battery charger on overnight (slow charge). Disconnect the battery charger before starting. Does the gauge react differently now (that you know the battery is fully charged)?

1999 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting No pattern

Once in a while when trying to start the car, the engine will not crank and I notice the Security light is turn ON. I play with the remote lock and unlock for a while until the security light goes out, then it will crank and starts with no problem. Lately, when turning the key to start, she hesitates a split second before starting to crank. Using the spare key will not help.

The lock cylinder in the steering column can fail and give you those symptoms. It is a challenge to change it.

Before I go through the trouble of replacing the cylider, is there anything else that could cause this symptoms?
What makes the symptom go away?
Thanks

The chip in the key touches 2 contacts in the lock cylinder. This sends the code to the vehicle anti-theft computer. When the contacts in the lock cylinder are worn, they do not make connection and the cylinder will need to be changed. Your cylinder is in the process of wearing out and will likely get worse and worse until it will fully fail.

For testing purposes:
Measure the resistance of the key resistor pellet. Next, find the 48 cavity connector just to the left of the steering column. Disconnect it and install an ohmmeter across the two wires at terminals E-12 and E-13 going back to the steering column. Insert the key into the Ignition Lock Cylinder and check the resistance at this connector. It should read the same as the reading obtained from the key resistor pellet. Watch the ohmmeter while turning the key all the way to the crank position and back several times. If the reading is open or it varies, the Ignition Lock Cylinder is defective. Replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder and bring the old key to the dealer to have it matched to a new key. There are different resistor pellets available and these pellets must remain the same value.

1999 Pontiac Bonneville Engine   

car will just shut off going down the road - will always restart but sometimes takes a minute to turn over - all 3 coils - fuel sensor - fuel pump - cam sensor - crank sensor - knock sensor - fuel pump relay - spark plugs - ignition wires and ignition module have all been replaced - what else could it be? Car only has 105,000 miles can't get a new one yet!

The PCM (computer) and ignition switch are possible. Either one of these failures can cause the engine to shut down quickly (just as if you turned key off).

Have you been able to check for spark when short no-start period happens? Do you hear the fuel pump run (the humming sound from the gas tank) after it stalls during the no-start period?

Have you had the PCM scanned for trouble codes? It may or may not set codes. Advance Auto and AutoZone will check the trouble codes free of charge. Have them check it even if the check engine light does not come on while the engine is running, as there may be pending codes.

1998 Pontiac Bonneville Chassis / Suspension & Steering Sticking When starting Always

When I first take off in my car, the ABS and traction control lights come on. It drags and grinds when first taking off and once the lights come on its ok. The computer was checked and there is no signal from the right rear bearing. I want to replace the bearing and sensor hoping this will solve the problem. How do I remove the rear drum brakes with the new "bar system?" Thanks for your time and expertise.

Hello, I'm willing to research this and fax you what I find. I retired from a Cadillac/Buick dealership in 2000.I haven't heard the term "bar system" before. I'll be researching the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair data base and my local Pontiac dealership as needed. (I drive a 2000 Grand Prix GTP)

Do you have a fax number? Will a cover sheet be needed to get a fax to your attention?

Back tomorrow,

Roger

Hi, You can fax info to this number...[redacted] . Please put to the attention of Ron McDonald. Thanks

I'll make the effort to get this done this afternoon.

Thanks,

Roger

Ron, After a detour to get my grandson's medicine, I sent you a fax. Please let me know if it is what you are looking for.

Roger

Got the info, what I was calling the bars are the return springs. (Sorry for the confusion) I've never changed these style brakes, just the old style with the round springs and locks. Thanks again

Ron, I don't understand why you released the question so that others may answer. Was that an error? Did I fail to provide what you needed?

If you intended to allow me to be paid you should find a button to click that reads "OK To Pay Mechanic".

What happened, sir?

Roger

Ron, I provided you info by fax and you said you received it. Won't you please pay me by clicking on the button "OK TO PAY MECHANIC"?

Thanks,

Roger

1998 Pontiac Bonneville Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens always Always

Hello, I Have A 1998 Pontiac SSEi, All The Lights For The Performance Ride Down By The Shifter Are Light Up, I Was Told That My Struts Are Bad- Is This True. Then I Was Told That They Didn't Make These Struts Anymore - Is This True

A diagnostic test needs to be run on your ride control system. It could be a bad strut or the ride control sensor itself that is causing the light up of the display panel. As far as the struts go, if you were trying to locate them at a local parts house, the struts may have been availabe at one time in the aftermarket sector but because they are not a most likely sought after item to continue maintaining stock on , you may have to check with an O.E.M. dealer if it in fact turns out to be a strut or a sensor in question. O.E.M. ain't cheap, but if this is the only resolve to your problem, sorry my friend, if it is a true problem to you, you gotta do what you gotta do.
Good Luck,
Paul

1998 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Two issues : 1. The car would not start...the entire electrical system would cut out. Had battery replaced and alternator checked...checked ok. Three days later it happened again. 2. The car will hesitate at or around 2000 rpm...no matter what speed.

If the headlights, dome lights, dash lights, everything cuts out-- you need to check the battery terminals, cables, grounds, etc as this is the most common area for problems. Note: Corrosion can bleed down the cables and be difficult to see.

If the headlights still work, but not the ignition system, the ignition switch (not to be confused with the lock cylinder) is on the top of the list.

On the hesitation, do you get any check engine light while the engine is running? We won't worry to much about the hesitation at this point, as the no start condition may be causing this.

1998 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My battery went dead. I suspect something is drawing power when the car is off. I disconnected the battery and measured the battery current with everything off. It read 3.0 amps. (battery voltage was down to 8 volts so this means 40watts of power draw). What is normal battery current with everything tuned off? (There's computer chips and radio clocks and so on, so it wouldn't necessarily be zero).

Normal battery draw is less than .2 amps.I usually find excessive current draw by testing as you did, but removing one fuse at a time to isolate circuit. You would be suprised how many trunk lights stay on !

Thank you, I'll start trouble-shooting the fuse/cicuits tonight.

Do you think the battery will be ok to recharge. It currently reads 8 volts (I've disconnected it for now). It's the original maintainance free style with no easy way to check water levels. There's an indicator window on the top which currently show dark, not green.

Dark is not good, but you could try a charge. If more than 5 years old, I recommend changing it.

1997 Pontiac Bonneville Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

My ABS light is almost always on.Occasionally(very,very rarely) it will go off and the ABS will work for one brake cyle and then the light will return.After I do any brake work like replacing brake pads,calipers,rotors the light will go off and return once I use the brakes.

Hello, Have you had the car checked for ABS diagnostic codes? What codes have you found?

A road test with a scanner (not a code reader) will tell you if the wheel speed sensors are working properly.

Will you have the codes checked and advise what you find, please?

Roger

1997 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

The car stalled out several times. Plugs and wires have been replaced and one coil module has been replaced. The car runs rough and the "Check Engine" light is flashing. according to the owners manual this indicates a misfire condition. What could the problem be and do I fix it?

The most common problem is the coils and plug wires. Start the engine and view the coil and wires, if they are misfiring you will see stray spark. Shade or even darkness will aid greatly in seeing the stray spark. Also inspect the coils for cracks. Note- Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

Let me know what you find. Also check the coolant level as these engines (assuming the 3.8L V6) are known to develope a coolant leak in the intake manifold that will flood the cylinders and obviously cause a misfire (you are likely to notice white smoke from the exhaust). Don't allow the engine to run with this condition as engine damage can easily happen.

With a misfire from bad spark plugs, coils, or plug wires, damage to the catalytic converter is a concern. Don't run the engine anymore than you have to.

I just checked the areas you suggested. It is night time so I looked for any stray spark in total darkness, found none. The coolant level is fine (radiator is full and overflow is at the right level) and there is no sign of white smoke. As I said, I have replaced one of the ignition coils already (after the problem started). The other two coils do not appear to have any craks or other damage. The plug wires and plugs have been replaced when the problem first started.
Whats next?

Did you check for stray sprark while the engine was running rough (possibly revving the engine to create a stumble)?
Also check for good strong spark to all plugs.

There may be a trouble code in computer that will help pinpoint the problem. Advance Auto and Autozone will check the codes free of charge, if you have one close enough to drive to. Autozone will also loan you a code reader for a fully refundable deposit. Let me know which trouble codes you find, you the actual trouble code designation is necessary- Examples- P0300, P0401, etc.

You may have bad gas or a faulty fuel injectors. Also check the fuel pressure regualator, pull the vacuum line of the pressure regulator and see if the vacuum line is wet or smells of raw fuel.

1997 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Dash lights / Clock in the radio starting intermittently not working, now have stopped working altogether. Radio still works, critical warning lights work, but nothing else. Fuses look OK. Where else to check?

dash panel dimmer switch or headlight switch is bad

My headlights work fine in DRL mode AND manually when I pull the switch. The switch also works as a dimmer just fine, and will turn on the interior dome lights / door panel lights when I click it on. If it's still possible that it's defective, how do I check that?

did you check dash light dimmer switch

How do I check it??? It works like it's supposed to: it dims the lights, it turns on the interior lights, and it turns on the headlights when I pull it. Do I need to remove it and check for ? wear / burnt contacts ?? Thanks,
Ray

the dash dimmer is seperate from actual switch it is located on dash somewhere by column will look like radio knob or small wheel

Actually, no. The 97 Bonneville has a combo switch: If you pull it, it turns the parking lights on first stage, then pull second stage it turns headlights on. If you turn it one way, it dims the dash lights. If you turn it the other way all the way, it clicks, and turns the dome/interior lights on. ALL FUNCTIONS work, except the dimmer/dash lights / clock on the radio.

then combo switch is bad or wire to instrument cluster

So how do I tell if it's one or the other? What's the testing procedure? Do I just need to replace switch and see what happens, if that doesnt work, look at the wires???

test light on back of switch if power there then wiring

did u fix

1996 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

IT IS LIKE THE AUTO CLIMATE CONTROL IS STUCK IN HIGH HEAT MODE COMING OUT OF HEATER IN FLOOR AND DEFROSTER,IT HAS TEMPERTURE CONTROL EVEN IF TURN ON AC AND MOVE TEMP TO 60 . FAN CONTROL DOES WORK, JUST CAN NOT CONTROL TEMP

Is there any hissing noise noise coming from underneath the dash or at the right side of the firewall near fan housing? Also, you say the is is coming from both the floor and defroster vents, when it does so is the clutch on the A/C compressor engaged? The vent doors work off a vaccume to open and close when you turn your control dial. If there is no hissing sounds and your A/C clutch stays engaged wheither changing from A/C to heat, I would have to say the A/C/heater control head on the dash has gone bad. You can try and run direct powerto the fan motor to make sure it is operable, if so my bet would br on the control head.
Good Luck,
Paul

I HAVE REPLACE HEAD UNIT, ANY OTHER IDEA'S .AUTO CLIMATE CONTROL CHANGES TEMP ON DISPLAY BUT STAYS HOT. ALSO THE DISPLAY CHANGES FOR THE VENT DIRECTION BUT NOTHING HAPPENS. EVERYTHING WORKS ON AUTO DISPLAY, BUT NOTHING CHANGES

I take it you checked for vaccume leaks. The heater control module should work on a vaccume that allows water to flow thru the heater core but shuts the vent door that allows the heated air to enter the compartment. You may also want to check the fan motor resistor. Should be located on the fan motor housing.
Good Luck,
Paul

1996 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

Vent selection stuck on FLOOR & DEFROST; RECIRC ON/OFF makes no air flow differance. Digital control indicators switch from FLOOR / FLOOR & DEFROST / FLOOR & CENTER / CENTER; RECIRC indicator also switches; DEFROST switch also changes indicator to DEFROST. Each depression of any of the controls also makes a CLICK underdash passenger side.

It sounds like you are hearing the relay click, which indicates the controls are trying to do their job. You'll have to check the actuators to see if they are moving the air doors (stuck, broke, etc).

Do the actuators require vaccum or are they electric only?
There are several actuators... is it normal for them all to die at once?

they are vacum operated souinds like youve lost vacuum to control knobs or panel is bad itself a common problem for gm vehicles

Look under the hood for a broken vacuum line going to the firewall/climate control. Check all other climate control vacuum hoses. Most likely one is broken somewhere allowing the vacuum to escape instead of doing its job.

I do not see a vacuum line to the area of the actuators. On a 1996 Bonneville SE, what is the path of the vacuum line from the engine to the FLOOR, CENTER, DEFROST, RECIRC actuators? Where is each actuator?

You may not find the actuators. They may be inside the main blower compartment, but, you should be able to find any vaccuum lines that you can and check them. If they all look good, you can buy a generic vaccuum bulb that will increase your vaccuum volume. They are usually between 10 and 15 bucks. You just find a line in an optimal location to mount the bulb and cut it and put the bulb in between. This will increase your volume and should make the directional control work.

Test

Hello, Looks like you are having some trouble getting some answers here.

I've been looking in the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base and I've made some copies of relevant info to start with on your SE.

Will you please provide me an email address or a fax number? I'd like to send this data to you. Where to?

Do you have access to a GM Tech I Scan Tool? I'm thinking your programmer has failed. A Tech I is the only diagnostic tool that works with the HVAC System.

Do you have a vacuum resivoir on the firewall near the Automatic Transmission Dipstick? If so, is there a vacuum line disconnected from the resivoir? This happens frequently when some one checks the trans fluid level and knocks the hose loose by accident. Just a thought.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello?? Did you receive my message?

Roger

1996 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

My 96 bonneville and my brothers 95 bonneville both have been having trouble for a couple of years now. The modes on the heater a/c controller will not change. The air blows out on your feet and the windshield, even when it shows the air is blowing on your face. Would purchasing a new a/c controller be the way to go or is it something deeper or something simpler that I can do to fix it.

I had an older model Olds at one time that did the same type of thing.The first thing I suggest is check for any type of vaccum leaks under the hood and dash.The control doors to the vents work off vaccum.If you have access to a hand held vaccum,disconnect the main lead to the trap under the dash and see if it will hold.If it won't,the diaphragm may be shot.If it holds,then you have a leak in either a line,or the control head is your problem.Leaks are hard to find somtimes so listen and fill along the lines for any hissing of air sucction.
Good Luck,
Paul

Thanks for the help but I got one more question. There is no vacum line coming from the heater a/c controller so would that mean the valves are opened by electric current or could it still be by the vacum

1996 Pontiac Bonneville Engine Overheating Happens always When warm 

The cooling fans do not come on when the car heats or when the AC is on. I have checked the fans they work. When I put A TEST LIGHT on the wire coming from the Powertrain control module at the relay the test light and fans come on. The temp guage seems to work OK

Hello, The PCM provides ground to the Cooling Fan Relay so it will energize and turn on the cooling fans.

Do you have a wiring diagram? If you need one I'll send one to you if you'll provide your email address.

With the cooling fan relay removed you should have power on two terminals at all times. Do you?

Can you verify continuity on the wire from the relay socket to the PCM? Connectors clean and fit tight?

Roger

Power to one terminal all the time power to the other when ignition is on continuity to PCM is OK

OK, you are right...the second power source to the relay socket is switched hot.

Has the coolant temperature sensor become disconnected or broken? What engine please? Any diagnostic codes?

Roger

V6 3.8 Liter
I don't think the sensor has been disconnected I still get a reading on the dash for engine temp. No current OBD codes (sometimes a lean fuel code on bank 1)

Are you ahead of me...did you know there are two relays for the cooling fans? Have you checked them both?

Roger

Yes one starts the fans at a high speed and one at a low speed when I test the circuit with the test light

I've studied the wiring diagram that I have. You have verified power on two terminals on each of two cooling fan relays with the ignition key ON.

Your test light verifies the cooling fans will run when commanded. This step also verifies the ground circuit for the fan motors.

That points blame at the PCM as it has the job of reading the a/c pressure transducer and the coolant temp sensor feedback signals to determine when cooling fans are needed and at what speed.

I'm believing it is time to replace the PCM. If it were me I wouldn't do that until I used a GM TECH II diagnostic scanner to verify parameter data the sensors send to the PCM and what the PCM does with the data.

Roger

1996 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am having problems with my 1996 Pontiac Bonneville, it has my husband stumped. At first my battery went dead, so we put a new battery in it, it still kept going dead and I would have to put a charger on it, so my husband had the alternator tested to see if it was bad, at O' Reilly's and it passed three times, so we brought the alternator back home and put it back on the car, and it something still keeps pulling the juice from the battery. My door locks, lock by themselves and we don't understand what is going on with my car, is there any thing you might can help with, thank you. Roxanna Doyle

I will try my best to help you solve this problem.

Does your husband have a DVOM (multimeter)?

The first thing I need to know is when the battery goes dead:

When the car is driven, especially at night when the headlights/etc are used?

When the car sits (engine off) for an extended period of time (overnight)?

Let me know and we'll continue.

I have no dea if my husband has a mutimeter, I know he brung home some type of meter thing yesterday and he told me that the alternator is putting out 14 and then he tested the battery which tested a little low at the time. when I drove the car last weekend with te lights on and the heater on the voltage gauge was going down a sei fraction from 14 which the high end is 18, it always stayed around 14, I did buy the car off of a friend so it wasused not new. The car can sit for an hou and it will lock the doors and when I unlock it to start the battery will be dead, so 'll have to charge it up again. and yes even when it sits over night it will be dead the next morning. Although earlier today I had to run some errands and I had to put the car on the charge, so I when I got to leave, I ran errands and my last stop I shut the car off went into a store was in there approxamatley 15 minutes when I came out to start the car, my inside lights looked dim and I knew my battery was going low again, it didn't want to start the first time, but then the second time it started and i brung it home.

Okay, this called parastatic draw (something is draining the battery when the car is not running.)

An ampmeter is recommended to find the problem. The amp-meter is hooked inline with the battery cable. Observe the amperage draw (I'm expecting well above ten amps if the battery is dying in 15 minutes.) Now disconnect fuses, one by one, observing the amp meter. When you find the offending circuit the amp reading will drop considerably. Also try relays and circuit breakers. Note- For this test to be effective all lights need to be off (dome, trunk, glove box, hood, etc.)

If you don't have an amp meter, you still have a chance to find the problem. What ever is using all the electricity is bound to be getting warm. Find something that is warm when it shouldn't (an hour or so after shutdown, might need the battery charger hooked-up on low charge to keep the battery from going completely dead.

D

Okay, this called parastatic draw (something is draining the battery when the car is not running.)

An ampmeter is recommended to find the problem. The amp-meter is hooked inline with the battery cable. Observe the amperage draw (I'm expecting well above ten amps if the battery is dying in 15 minutes.) Now disconnect fuses, one by one, observing the amp meter. When you find the offending circuit the amp reading will drop considerably. Also try relays and circuit breakers. Note- For this test to be effective all lights need to be off (dome, trunk, glove box, hood, etc.)

If you don't have an amp meter, you still have a chance to find the problem. What ever is using all the electricity is bound to be getting warm. Find something that is warm when it shouldn't (an hour or so after shutdown, might need the battery charger hooked-up on low charge to keep the battery from going completely dead.

DO NOT WORK AROUND THE BATTERY WITHOUT EYE PROTECTION, especially with this condtion!!!

ok but we have one problem, there is a fuse box under my dash on the left side off the steering column, all of the fuses aren't in it but there are a few and the manual that came with the car is from a 1995 bonneville, mine is a 1996, and we went by the 1995 book to pull the fuse out for the door locks because they lock on us automatically when we aren't in the car, so my husband was going to pull the fuse out to it, but it said the #1 fuse and I found out that that went to my ignition, because my car woudn't turn over the next day, the dash lights came on but when I turned the ignition to start it, there was nothing, so I put that fuse back in and it started, so could u let me know what these fuses go to please, and thank you for your help, someone told us that the voltage regulator is sticking, could that be it?

I don't think the problem is the voltage regulator.

Is the fuse block different for the 96 compared to the 95, what did the fuse identifier say the #1 fuse is for (95 manual)? How many fuses have been removed?

The reason I ask is because the circuitry that controls the door locks is linked to the starting (security) system.

I don't know if the 96 fuse box is any differant then the 95 but in the 95 manual it says the #1 fuse was for the door locks, but when my husband took that #1 fuse out the ignition wouldn't start the car, and the voltage regulator is made into the altrnator, could it be that it is getting stuck?, that is what one guy told my husband, we also had it tested at Auto zone, while it was on the car and it tested bad, then the next day I took just the alterntor to O' Reilly's and it tested good 3 times. My husband had it started yesterday and the gauge on the dash would go all the way down to 9 then back up to 14 after a few seconds.

Disconnect the alternator wire overnight (or for a couple hours, long enough that you'd expect the battery to dead). Make sure to insulate the alternator wire as it is hot and will short out against virtually anything it touches under hood.

After the waiting period carefully reconnect the wiring and try to start the vehicle. If the battery is dead once again, the alternator is not the problem. If the battery is full of life the alternator is pretty well confirmed as being bad (in which case I'd expect it to be warm/hot when the key was turned off for a while with a battery charger installed on low charge (to confirm voltage available, wait to long and the dead battery is not supplying voltage and it would cool off.)

Do this when the battery is charged enough to start the car.

Once again I stress the importance of wearing eye protection especially with the problem you are experiencing. The first step in removing the alternator is disconnecting the battery. Doing this with a battery that is going dead and being recharged, as with yours, creates explosive gases from the battery. Add that to a hotter than normal spark likely present when reconnecting because of the constant voltage draw (like plugging in an appliance with the swich ON) is a serious hazard.

As for the fuse, disconnect again and see if the power doors cease to function. If so, you are likely cutting off power to the BCM (body control module) and which will in turn not allow the security system to deactivate.

ok, well my husband said he did unhook the battery for 2 days last week, and the battery stayed up, but as soon as h hooked the battery back up and it set overnight the battery went dead, he did not take the wire off of the alternator though. He just told me that when he had it started last night after my errand running and after he came home from work, which was about 5:30 pm. he started the car and had the headlghts on and the amp meter inside the car on the dash went all the way down to 6 for a few seconds then slowly climed back up to 14, and it continued to do that till he shut it off, now he also told me that when we had the alternator tested at auto zone, the first guy hooked up their sytem thing to it and he ooked it up on the wrong side or part of the alternator, and then after about 5 minutes of him doing this and that he finally said he didn't know what he was doing so he went to get another guy, and the second guy hooked their sytem thing up on a differant part of the alternator and then said it was only putting out like 2 amps.

well see with the door locks, I can't push the door lock buttom on the inside of the car on the door to lock the doors, because the guy that had it before we got it, done something and now that button wont work the door locks to lock or unlock them, so if I want one f the doors loccked I have to manually slide the lock inward to lock the dorr, and if I lock all 4 doors while I am somewhere then I have to use he key of course to open the doors, because i don't have that little keyless button thing. but when the fuse was out I could still lock the door, and when I turned the key on all the dash lights came on, like check engine and set belt, and so on that come on for a few seconds then go off, but the security light was in with those too.

Okay,

He needs to monitor the voltage with a voltmeter with the engine running. This will let you know if the alternator is charging or not.

I'm not sure the surging amp meter is indicating a problem with the alternator or is a reaction to weak battery (if the battery is run down enough to cause the alternator to have to overwork). If it did it with a fully charged (charged for a while with the battery unhooked, so we know it's not being discharged by whatever is bothering) and then reconnected & the problem was still present with the gauge... the alternator would look bad at this point. The parts store can also test your charging system in the parking lot (call autozone or advance auto in your area to confirm they offer this free service). Perhaps this would be simplest.

ok, will do, and thank you for your help.

Any results?

hello, well we did have to buy a new alternator, once my husband put it on and started the car the head on the started broke so we had to et another started also, cars! anyway, my husband took it last nite for a test drive out where we live in the country and he said it done really well, the alternator gauge ont he dash only fluctuated 1 (one) time and it never done it again after that, he is thiking maybe he needs to run a new ground wire. You just really never know about previously owned vehicles and what the last person done or didn't do to keep the vehicle in good condition. But hopefully this has solved the problem, Thank you again for all of your help with this matter.

1995 Pontiac Bonneville Engine Stalling When starting Always

engine starts but shuts off immediately. Replaced fuel filter that did not help. What can this be ?

Hello, Have you checked fuel pressure? If the fuel pump is weak or the fuel pump relay won't stay energized you may be running out of fuel. Also, a crankshaft position sensor could be suspect.

Roger

When exactly does engine shut off? Does it coincide exactly when the key is released to the 'run' position from the 'start' position?
Do you hear the fuel pump run (it's in the tank and you should be able to hear it prime the first time the key is turned on)?

Also do you have a remote starter? There could be a problem with the security system (you should have the key with the resistor pellet?)

Answer what you can.

It starts then it revs up to about 3000 or 4000
rpm then shuts off just like I turned the key off.
But if I pump the gas pedal it will rev with every pump. When I stop it quits will not idle.

Does your check engine light stay on? At this point you need to check for trouble codes.

Fuel pressure is 45.
No check engine light.
Tries to run when I spray starting fluid
into the throttle body.

Hi:
Depending on what size engine it is.It could be one of two things. Either the mass airflow sensor or the egr valve stuck open. In either case you can try tapping on them to see if you notice ant changes, Good Luck Les

Hi,The engine is a 3.8 non turbo
it has a linear EGR valve I tapped on it
but its not the mechanical type. I also
tapped on the MAF sensor, no luck
1995 has no map sensor.

Linear EGR Valve Diagnosis
The linear EGR valve diagnosis procedure varies depending on the vehicle make and model year. Always follow the recommended procedure in the vehicle manufacturer's service manual. The scan tester may be used to diagnosis a linear EGR valve. The engine should be at normal operating temperature prior to EGR valve diagnosis. Since the linear EGR valve has an EVP sensor, the actual pintle position may be checked on the scan tester. The pintle position should not exceed 3% at idle speed. The scan tester may be operated to command a specific pintle position, such as 75%, and this commanded position should be achieved within two seconds. With the engine idling, select various pintle positions and check the actual pintle position. The pintle position should always be within 10% of the commanded position. When the linear EGR valve does not operate properly:

Check the fuse in the 12 V supply wire to the EGR valve.
Check for open circuits, grounds, and shorts in the wires connected from the EGR valve winding to the PCM.
Use a digital voltmeter to check for 5 V on the reference wire to the EVP sensor.
Check for excessive resistance in the EVP sensor ground wire.
Leave the wiring harness connected to the valve, and remove the valve. Connect a digital voltmeter from the pintle position wire at the EGR valve to ground, and manually push the pintle upward. The voltmeter reading should change from approximately 1 V to 4.5 V.



Linear EGR valve circuit. Courtesy of Chevrolet Motor Division-GMC.

If the EGR valve did not operate properly on the scan tester and tests 1 through 5 are satisfactory, replace the valve.

Here is a test yopu can try on the egr valve.
Les

1995 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my 95 bonneville has not had use of the rear speakers from the stereo ..further the audio controls on the streering wheel has not worked either. I have checked all fuses....just put in a new stereo system and again...rear speakers not working, nor are steering wheel audio controls. help!!!

sounds like stereo module located behind dash

sounds like a good answer. where would this stereo module be located behind the dash? also, would it account for the rear speakers not working and thes steering wheel audio controls not working? is this somehting I can fix....your would it need to go to mechanic that specializes in such things? thanks so very much for your reply

module is in one of 2 places right side of cae-r under dash or left side of car under dash

appreciate response. manual is not helpful in location of stereo module. would i need to disassemble kick panel under dash to trace wire harness? since the manual is basically useless...any idea of what i would be looking for? again....tracing wire harness backward may help? thanks in advance for your patience and help!

black or grey box with 3 plugins

bamaredneck........thanks for the info on 95 Bonnie stereo info. brownzfan (a.k.a floridacracker)

u r welcome

1995 Pontiac Bonneville Engine   

After a long drive,with out any problems, the was car parked for 15 to 20 minutes after which we resumed driving the car. After approx driving 1 mile, check engine light came on, temp indicator pegged out, we pulled over and checked the radiator. Found the radiator low on fluid. we allowed the engine to cool back down to normal and then added water. Restarted the car and it ran fine. After driving about a mile, the engine shut down and could not be restarted. Check engine light was on and the water temp was normal. Engine oil looked normal. The water temp sensor was checked and found to be good. Car was towed home and tried to restart the engine the next day. Engine turns over but will not start.

you may have blown a head gasket you can check the radiator for oil mixed in with it.
also check the spark plugs for foulness and
check for a vacume in the radiator system while cranking it is possible that there is air getting into the intake system
I hope this helps

Thank you that was it.

I am glad you found the problem.
what symptoms and information did you find to come to that conclusion?

We pulled all of the spark plugs from the engine and checked them for water then we attemped to turn the engine over and water shot out from four of the six holes where the spark plugs where. Thank you for your help.

Ok You are welcome
Take care

1995 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System   

1995 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi, with eltronic air conditioning control. Although the A/c lines are ice cold, the air blows very hot all the time. The exterior temp flashes for a long time then stabilizes and stops flashing. Some time you can start the car and the A/C works just fine, and is Ice Cold. Seems like a control or flap that directs the cold air is not working right or sticks... Any Ideas

Yes, the blend air door is sticking, broken, or not being commanded properly.

When the exterior temp is flashing there is a trouble code stored in the body module, the only way to retrieve the codes and start diagnosis is with a scan tool.

is the scan tool you refer to, the same as when you see a check engine light?
Where do you access the scan tool? Any further ideas on how to repair or is this a job for the GM dealer?
Any Idea of repair cost?

How do I Blend door? to see if it is sticking or broken?

I meant, how do I find the Blend door? Where is it located?

Let me see if I can find you a diagram. It'll take a while so please be patient (you'll recieve an email when I reply).

It is kind of the same as the check engine light, but different in how the codes is accessed (a scan tool is required for body codes, not always the case with engine light codes).

1995 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The car keeps getting a code saying the knock sensor is bad. I have replaced it twice with no luck. What else could be causing the problem?

The wiring to the sensor could be bad as well as the connector.

What code are you getting, is an OBD 1 or 2 code?

I'm not sure what code it is. The mechanic ran a wire stright from the computer to the sensor. I would need to ask the mechanic tomorrow. He claims the wiring harness is bad. However, I would think if it was the wiring harness then it would have worked using the above method.

Is the problem causing the check engine light to come on and stay on?

Do have any driveability complaints-- poor power, economy, stumble, hesitation, etc?

Yes Sir the engine light is on continuously. The car drives okay. However, it does not have the amount of power it should. It has a very difficult time going up hills. Engine starts to overheat. Gas mileage has gone down about 10%.

Sir, are you going to be able to answer my question???

These cars are notorious for having weak computers. You could also have trouble with the ignition module.

Can you give me the actual trouble code numbers you are getting?

1995 Pontiac Bonneville Fuel System   

1995 pontiac bonneville 3800 series 2 100400 miles. The problem I have is after the car has been driven (operating temp)and I shut it off,if I start it right away it starts normal,but if it sits 15-30 minutes it starts but sound like it is flooded and no power the motor sputters like its being choked.If it doesn"t clear itself,the car stalls and you have to wait 30-60 minutes for the car to restart and it starts and runs great. The car never stalls stumbles or anything until you park it. I changed the IAT plugs,wires,fuel filter had fuel pump and regulator check,thru no codes. The MAF was clean. I give up don't know where else to look.

Two things come to mind. The CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) for the computer, but it should set a code if failed.
The second one being the Crankshaft Position Sensor, which will fail and give similar symptoms.The Crank sensor commonly will give NO codes!
It is a fairly cheap sensor too, last one I bought was $32.

where is the crank shaft sensor located,and is it easy to change on my own.

Motor size?

3800 series 2

3.8 L GM motors crank sensor located down by Harmonic balancer or lower pulley.Its black, has a plug with 2 wires, Is attached with two small bolts (5/16 -8mm)If you Google 95 Bonnevelle Crankshaft Sensor you will see photos, to help you Identify.

thanx cheap part but a lot of work to get to. would you recommend changing cam sensor too?

Cam sensor usually sets a code when fails.Yes, the crank sensor commonly
a pain to change!

thanx

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System   

hi,
i have a 1994 bonn ssei, i turn the car on and let it warm up, then i hit the auto button on the climate control witch is set to 90 deg, i get cold air blowing out, then the temp reading on the climate control starts to blink then i get heat but a couple of secounds later it starts to blink and slowly the heat is gone again, somtimes i will bring the temp down to 65 deg and then back up to 90 the heat might come on but it will blink again then the same thing happens all over again, i tryied to reset the computer by disconnecting the pos terminal on the battery for about 3 min, i get the same thing the blinking is telling me something but i dont know what, i dont know if i have to hold a couple of buttons to reset this problem or what, im clueless, please help me....

Hello, To help you best I'll need to get information from an auto repair data base that is not available to me from my home. We have very bad weather coming in (ice & snow). How fast do you need an answer?

Please advise,

Roger

as soon as possible please, my wife takes the kids to school in the morning and the temp here is -08 below zero,
thank you sooooo much, for me to get the answer to this problem is like winning the lottery, my wife is starting to lose faith in me on repairing it, and we cant afford to take it to a mechanic, your solution would be a blessing..

thanks
george

george

Sir, I will do my best to get you an answer. My next opportunity at the data base is tomorrow Feb 1st between 1:00 and 6:00pm Central Standard Time. I have a four wheel drive truck and I'll try to get through and get what we need here.

A family and 8 below zero motivates me to make an exception and risk the drive. Do you have a FAX number if I find what is too much to type?

Is your public library open for reference material you could use?

Roger

Do you have a FAX number?

Roger

Sorry I missed you. I'm off to a Super Bowl party. I wanted to FAX you some info.

I'm thinking you have a programmer fault. Behind the right side of the dash is the HVAC Case. The programmer is a black box with vacuum hoses and an electrical connector. There is a DCvolt motor in the programmer that controls where the temperature door is to be. If you can disconnect the linkage for the door from the motor you can pull the linkage toward the rear of the car and position the temp door at full heat. You'll need to find a way to hold the door linkage in this position because the blower air flow will try to move the door back toward cold!

Diagnosis calls for the benefit of a TECH I Scanner to track what is commanded vs. what happens in the different modes of HVAC.

A programmer will likely be a dealer item unless you find a used one. Programmers are expensive.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Hello, please bring me up to date. What is happenning with your car?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Pontiac Bonneville All Part Groups   

Car stalls while in motion. Won't start again for 10 minutes or more. Had it into dealer who could not find the problem and is suspecting ignition. Security is not flashing. No gauges are showing anything -- except check gauges. This is happening more and more frequently. Last incident was a week ago. Radio was going full blast, but had to manually unlock doors.

Hello, What engine please? Supercharged?

Was the Dealer able to duplicate the complaint? This is paramount to find an intermittent problem!

Roger

There are a few common causes for these car. The crankshaft position sensor and ignition module are known to fail with age. Also the PCM (computer) is known weakness on these cars and can cause phantom stalling.

There is still the possibility of a fuel problem, but most likely is one of the items I listed above.

How often does this happen? Are you equipped to check for spark to the spark plugs when the problem occurs?

This first happened about 6 months ago, then a week ago.

After sitting for a period of time, it would start first time, no problem. Today, it would not stay running as if there might be a problem getting fuel.

I had it in a week ago and they could find nothing although suspecting ignition problem. However; to me it isn't logical that a car would stop running when in motion. The side lights were on this time, turned over but just wouldn't stay running.

Gas level is not low -- over a quarter tank. Light shows "brakes" this time.

If it would run a little but die when you give it gas, this is a telltale sign of inadequate fuel supply.

When it stalls does it sort of stumble to a stop (as when you run out of gas) or quit as if someone flipped a switch. The "flipping of a switch stall" usually indicates power is lost. This can be from the ignition switch, crank sensor, pcm, or a relay.

There is no stumbling or jerking or any sign of inadequate gas supply. The first indication I had that there might be inadequate gas supply was when I started it up this time - and it started on the first try, but then wouldn't stay running.

Bonneville started this time. I think I may have flooded it previously, accounting for the first indication of fuel problem.

I am wondering since this is an old key, is there any way that as I read somewhere previously on diagnostics, that the protective coating is worn off. But, would this cause it to stall when in motion?

Don't know where to look to see if this is "super-charged". Have ? into previous owners.

Look at your VIN (vehicle identification number), the 8th character will be an 'L'or a '1'. The 'L' is for the common 3.8L without a supercharger. The less common '1' is for the engine with a supercharger. The common non-supercharged engine has good power. While the supercharged engine has incredible power. Easy to tell the difference.

8th character is an "L"

That is the common engine that I gave you information on.

Are you equipped to safely check for spark during the stall-- this would include not being in danerous traffic.

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

When turning key, dash lights turn on. Turn key, radio
goes off like normal, dash lights change, but stay lit.
Head lights bright - battery OK? No starter sound at all. No clicks from a relay, nada.I opened the trunk for the first time in months immediately before this happened. Suspect that if there is a trunk open interlock, that is the issue. I will spray lubricant tommorow. Can interlock wires be cut and shorted? Which wires? Tried different keys (they have the security thingie). Security dash light flashes when turning key.
Whe

I don't think this car has trunk lock interrupt circuit.

You may have broken wires at the lock cylinder. You can either replace the lock cylinder or measure the resistance of your key and solder a resistor of the same value between the wires coming from the steering column (you have to get the right ones, you don't want to interfere with the air bag lights). This will disable the anti-theft feature, so take that into consideration.

Perhaps. Both my wife and I recall an event a few years ago where the remote trunk open button got stuck in and the car would not start. The button appears OK today. Anyone know for sure about the trunk interlock? The car is old...it's not worth it to hire GM at $90/hour to track this down, plus towing. But, if I can cut and splice the correct two wires tommorow morning...

Open the trunk, does a dash light come on? If yes, close the trunk- does the dash light go out?

I was tired last night. It is not the trunk. Went back today. Entire ignition switch is kinda loose. The loose part is the part you turn with your fingers. When door is open, door open alarm can be intermittent by wiggling key. Probably need a new switch. Is this a readily available part? Easy to replace? Dealer only? We also double checked battery by trying a jump. Bat. voltage read good, and with cables, went to 14V. No change.

The switch should be available at your local parts store.

Use the following link to access a free online repair manual for your car-

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm

Copy and paste into your address bar, let me know if the small wires coming from the switch are broken.

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

carwontstartsecurityhasmelockedhowcanibypasssecurity

What engine do you have?
Which is the security that has locked you out 'is it aftermarket or is it the factory installed system is it the key not being recognized and are you getting a message?

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

the car ran fine then we shut it off when we went to star the car the car dash lights all on nothing going to starter though but security light just blinks.there is juice.just dont turn over.we hooked up a remote start to the starter and it will run till we let the button go on the remote start.
so we know there is plenty of juice. we have the chip key,went and had a new one made.still the same.
it is like we are locked out of the system {security lock out} we have the security light staying on and blinking? is there a way to reset it?we un hooked the battery,we rolled down the window ,key in the on poss.w/ charger on low and let set for 1 hr.to see if the security light would reset w/ no voltage change. still no luck any suggestions?we are a repair shop so we no were good everywhere but like were locked out of the system.how do we reset? help. 94 bonnie

Hi, If the car has a chip in the ignition key there are two small white wires that run down through the steering column from the ignition lock cylinder to the car's security system.

Look at the wiring coming down from the column for two white wires (often in an orange sleeve) that run to the turn signal switch connector.

When you locate these wires gain access to them by disconnecting the connector they are in.

Put the key in the ignition. Check for continuity (you'll get a resistance value of the key chip) between these two white wires.

If no continuity replace the ignition key lock cylinder and the ignition keys for the same resistance value as the original key had. One of the white wires has broken loose from the ignition lock cylinder.

These white wires cannot be repaired. They break right at the lock cylinder.

If you have continuity please advise.

Roger

ROGER FIRST OF ALL THANKS!
I WILL HAVE TO CHECK THIS TOMARROW.
I HAVE 4 GOOD TECKS AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME ANY OF US RAN ACCROSS THIS . WHERE IS THE SECURITY UNIT LOCATED? WHEN YOU SAY A ORANGE SLEVE?PLASTIC SLEEVE?
I ORDERED A ING SWITCH TODAY SHOULD HAVE TOMARROW.

THE RELAY DOES CLICK UNDER THE HOOD BELOW THE [BIG] FUSE STILL THINK WHT. WIRES?

The security module is deep in the dash on the right side I think?? You won't have to find it.

By using the same key value that the old key had the module will work fine. It cannot be reprogrammed.

The white wires are a flat stand-alone harness and the orange sleeve is just a flat plastic shrink wrap. Easy to find.

Your new ign lock cylinder will come with the white wire harness intact. When you hold it in your hand you'll see just what to look for coming out of the column harnesses.

You'll be going deep enough to slide the turn signal switch up to get to the lock cylinder. Pull a trace wire up through the steering column with the old white wire harness to feed the new harness back down through the column.

DON'T forget to run the new white wires through the ign lock cylinder hole in the column housing before you run the harness down through the column!!

All original ignition keys will be retired.

Roger

Have your techs had time to check this one out?

I'm curious,

Roger

Please update this question status. What did you find?

Roger

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Engine   

Hi, my problem is my check engine light comes on and the car runs rough and chuggs. If I shut the car off and restart it will run fine (and the engine light is off). I have had it on the computer and they are telling me the codes that came up were cam signal problems from the module or crank sensor related. Sometimes the car will turn over and not start. After a couple of minutes it will start. Sometimes also the car will just stall without any warning. Thanks Patty

Why haven't they checked the camshaft position sensor? This is a fairly common problem on these vehicles.

Check your diagnostic connector to see if there is a terminal in slots A & B.

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

i have a 94 sse bonneville the engine cranks but does not start it has fuel pressure but no spark at the plug wires i've checked this with my hei spark tester that connects to plug wire and clips to ground also removed ingnition module and had it tested (ok) also eliminated e.c.m put in a known good one with the same service # thinking crank sensor but not sure

Hello
Did this happen all at once. What was it doing up to that point. I would first try to see if the distributer is turning while you are turning the engine over. Could be a crank sensor.
Heavychevy

the car ran 1week ago has not run since i went to drive it this weekend and it would'nt start it is a dis system type2 it does'nt have a distributor

1. Check all the wiring to and from the dis
2. check the coil, replace it with a known good one.
3. turn key to on position and check if there is 12volts coming from the dis. you may have to crank car
4. if all fail than I woulod replace the dis

.

..

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your bonneville.
Heavychevy

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

When at idle and accelerating the engine seems to run fine, but once it gets to a cruising speed greater than 40 MPH it acts as if it is misfiring. I noticed that just prior to the “misfiring” my tach will take about a 500-750 RPM drop in speed. I then can slowly press the pedal all the way down to the floor without any increase in speed or RPM’s. If however, I even slightly raise my foot and then press the pedal down again the RPM’s will jump back up and the car will resume accelerating. Any help would be appreciated.

Usually when a tach drops , and a misfire starts happening, it is a ignition coil failure.
Raising your foot off the gas pedal removes some of the load and the power comes back.
Someone with a good scan tool should be able to verify that.
Also...when was the last tune up done?
Spark plugs and air/ fuel filters might be due.

Plugs and wires have been replaced. This made a slight improvment. Fuel filter has not been replaced.

I have also replaced the air filter.

Fuel filter is important, but I am concerned with the coil(s)

1994 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

I turn the key & have power but the engine or starter moter shows no sign of life!

Try turning on the headlights and see if bright.Then test the battery for 12-13 volts with a meter if poss. Try jumpstarting car with another. If it starts, see if alternator charging and belt is good. Look at tags on battery for one with a date code. If it is close to five years old, consider replacing it as that is average lifespan of batteries. If you have no test equipment there is a simple way to test alternator if car is running. At rear of alternator is a bearing about 1" diameter. If you hold a screwdriver against it you will feel a strong magnetic pull, if it is good.
If it does not start with a jumpstart it might be the starter switch but you will require test equipment to diagnose.

1993 Pontiac Bonneville All Part Groups Malfunction When driving Always

On my 1993 Bonneville, the speedometer seems to be working alright but the odometer and the trip meter which are located seperate from the speedometer have stopped working altogether. Is there a cable connecting the two or is it electronic. the trip meter and the odometer appear to be mechanical gauges. thanks Indy

Hello, today being Sunday, I am away from my resources. I'll get back to you on Monday the 14th.

Thanks,

Roger

Ok, There is a number on the back of your instruement cluster a Pontiac Dealer parts department will need to get you an estimate for repair. The trip and odometer are electronic, even if they do not appear to be digital. Most local speedometer repair shops will send the cluster out for the electronic repair, though exceptions may exist in your area. You could make some calls and see who is in your area.

This number on the cluster will help identify who made it and who is an authorized repair depot. When your car was in it's OEM Warranty, the dealer could order a replacement/exchange unit already programmed with the mileage. That probably won't happen now, so, your cluster will need to be sent off for repair. Personally, I recommend a GM Dealer's assistance here. You'll have the best recourse for warranty after the repair.

Roger

Hello, any news here?

Roger

Please update the status here...

Thanks,

Roger

Since this doesn't seem to be a user serviceable component, I'll just live with it...............thanks
John

Thank you for the reply, John. I'm sorry when things like this work against the owner.

Will you please accept/reject my answer so this question can be closed?

Respectfully,

Roger

Yes I accept your answer and thanks once again for the help...........John

You are welcome!

Sailing on,

Roger

Dear John,

To accept my answer, will you please click on the "PAY" button on your screen? That will close out this question for us. Thanks!

Roger

Roger, I don't see a "Pay" button, but I accept your answer so go ahead and charge my account.
John

Thanks John, but I never see what the customer sees on their screen and I have no way to close the question on my side. That would allow dishonesty. I'll write to All-Parts and ask the administrator to review this query and get him to finish up for us.

Respectfully,

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Roger, yes we are finished,thank you for your help. As I said before go ahead and charge my credit card, assuming you still have the number, if not let me know

John

Hi John, There must be something on the screen you see when I send you a reply that allows you to "accept" my answer. I don't know just what it says, or how that works!

DO NOT send me your credit card number!!!!! All-Parts should have that information and I do not have reason to know any of it.

Thanks,

Roger

There is no "pay" button or "accept" my answer anywhere on the screen, just a history of the corespondance between us.Some other arrangement will have to be made.

1993 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm 

Hi,

I start my car, I hear the six beeeps, and the car starts. I have no problems with starting. Only the fact that NONE of my electronic gauges turn on (Digital compass, Digital Odomider, etc...). AND all non-digital gauges on the instrument panel along eith the digital guages... the needles on all the non-digital guages move all the way to the right, very rapidly. This shows very inaccurate info. The radio and A/C unit work fine. It used to work excellent when my brother had it 2 months ago, before I bought this car from him last week. What;s irritating, is the fact I don't know how much actual (true reading) of fuel I have in my car. The other night it worked fine after I started the car; After 7 miles, I turned off the car & parked. waited for 5 minutes while eating. Then turned the car on again; this time my gauges went hay-wire, digital readouts went on and off (flickering every so often..) even my digital speed readout doesn't work.

All small fuses inside the car are good. I was thinking maybe it had something to do with the main fuse block on the firewall of hte engine compartment? I have't taken the instrument panel off & looked at the connections inside for errors yet. What could i do to find out what's living inside my car's wires to make it do this? Thanks for your help; anything is greatly appreciated!

Hello, I'll need to get a wiring schematic to be to be sure about what powers the instruement cluster.

From your description I believe your instruement cluster itself is the problem. I'll be checking to see if a body control module powers the cluster and also the A/C Panel, Radio display.

If the cluster connections are clean and tight and correct voltage is made available to run the cluster yet it won't work, yours will have to be sent in to a repair shop. A rebuilt cluster will set you back some serious dollars.

Check with your local Pontic Dealer about cost and availability avenues for repair/exchange. After ten model years have passed it may be difficult to get an exchange cluster ordered in to minimize your inconvenience. Don't be too surprised if yours is sent in for repair that it may be a month getting back to you.

Roger

What series Bonneville do you have, please? Do you know if you have RPO code UB3, or U2E?

Please advise,

Roger

1993 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI (Supercharged) I believe... If not, where can I find what you're looking for?

The RPO Codes are usually on a decal on the hard cover that covers the spare tire. Lift the trunk carpet and see if you find a 3X5 sized decal that shows the list of options your car has in an alpha-order list. Each code is made up of three letter/number combinations. Follow the list to the "U" codes and see if you find either UB3 or U2E.

Everything I've read points to the cluster itself being the problem. Have you had the time to pull the cluster and look at the connectors? There are two. Printed circuit contact surfaces and connector terminal blades can be cleaned with a soft eraser on a pencil. You need to be careful not to cause a static electricity spark to jump to the circuit board. Touch metal on the dash frequently to keep static build-up disapated to "ground".

Do you have a FAX number?

Roger

The RPO Codes are usually on a decal on the hard cover that covers the spare tire. Lift the trunk carpet and see if you find a 3X5 sized decal that shows the list of options your car has in an alpha-order list. Each code is made up of three letter/number combinations. Follow the list to the "U" codes and see if you find either UB3 or U2E.

Everything I've read points to the cluster itself being the problem. Have you had the time to pull the cluster and look at the connectors? There are two. Printed circuit contact surfaces and connector terminal blades can be cleaned with a soft eraser on a pencil. You need to be careful not to cause a static electricity spark to jump to the circuit board. Touch metal on the dash frequently to keep static build-up discharged to "ground".

Do you have a FAX number?

Roger

What about a "U2F" or a "UK3" code? If I can find some shade, I plan on checking out the cluster today. It's getting very hot here in AZ & unless you havea a garage to shade you, you're just about "dead in the water". And I will try those cleaning tips you gave me. Thanks Roger!

What about an email address? Can you send me faxes via email? I know Geico insurance can... :)

No, I'm sorry. When I scan a letter size document and copy to email the file is too large. Every square milimeter of paper scans as bytes and it won't work from here.

I don't have the resources of a corporation to afford the good stuff. And I am not an All-Parts employee, so I can't look to them for this capability either.

Did you find the RPO Codes?

Roger

Hello, Is your question still active? I haven't heard from you in a while.

Roger

Hello, any change in the status of this question?

Just checking in with you,

Roger

I've hadmy car scanned and basically I need to find an instrument panel cluster somewhere from a junk yard or a parts car somewhere for cheap. Unless you know of a place online where I can find one? The scan basically said the majority of my guages don't respond. What do you think?

I think you are right on track. I am not an All-Parts employee but I would like to suggest that you try the parts search at All-Parts.com. Over 30 suppliers will see your request and those who can help will respond with price and availability. No obligation and you pay no fee for the search.

Roger

1993 Pontiac Bonneville All Part Groups Leaking When stopped When warm 

How do i take out a heater core!and replace my new one. Thank you!

HI;
The heater core is located at the center of the dash underneath. You will have to disconnect the hosese coming into it from underneath the vehicle. Then there should be about 8 bolts under the dash that you will have to take out. You will see a square looking cover. Once you take that out you will see the heater core. It is held up by two brackets and four screws. I found that if you take the passenger screws out all the way and then loosen up the other two it will come out. Good Luck Les.

What Eight bolts am I taking out I don't see the square you are talking about. Is the heater core over the radio? I think I see the heater core behind the glove compartment, Is that it and if so is it possible to accessed from there?

Hi ;
The heater core is underneath the radio.There is an acess panel to get to. Thanks Les.

1993 Pontiac Bonneville Engine Stalling When braking Always

the car runs fine except when the brake is applied. the car will stall even if i put it in neutral and keep the gas pedal pushed. the car will restart easily

Does the engine only stall if the brake is applied when the car is moving?
Or will it stall when the car is in park or neutral (not moving) and the brake is applied?

When it stalls, does it do so in a manner that suggests the car still wants to move forward (just as if you tried to stop a car with a manual transmission without depressing the clutch)?

the car only stalls when it is moving and the brake is applied. example; at a stop sign. you can the restart the car and it will not die sitting still with the brake applied. it doesn't act like a manuel trans. the engine just dies.

With the car idling, wiggle wiring harnesses, lightly tap sensors, etc trying recreate the stall. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts (IE- use a broom stick instead of your hand).

Also clean the throttle body bore and blade, and the idle speed motor and it's passageway with throttle body cleaner."

1993 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always 

low air flow all modes

If the blower motor is operating okay- full speed with no binding, rubbing, etc- the evaporator has build-up that is restricing airflow. Clean the build up on the evaporator/heater-core and the problem should be better.

Does this car have pasenger compartment air filters and if so where are they? To clean the evap. and heater core do I have to disassemble majority of clim.control unit?

You may be able to remove the blower motor and housing and gain enough access to clean it on this model, I cannot remember for sure.

Use the following link to access a repair guide- which should be helpful with your problem-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Oh, passenger compartment air filters, no none that I'm aware of. On newer cars they are commonly referred to as cabin air filters.

The archieves on this site mention this car does have cabin air filters but nothing useful as to where they are located. Concerning plugged coils, wouldn't the air flow differ between a.c. and heat if this were the case?

They are usually located in front of the windshield on passengers side, you'll see a cover-- This is on vehicles that have them, I looked for the filter in a catalog and it was not listed for you car. You can still check this area to see if it has become plugged with leaves, etc as this is certainly possible.

1993 Pontiac Bonneville Windows / Glass   

I need to know the name of the part that is located above the front passenger door that assists the passenger in and out of the car. I call it an "assist" bar. I need one for my 1993 Pontiac Bonneville but can't locate it because I don't know what it is officially called.

The passenger assist handle is called "Assist Handle, Passenger"
GM likes to write things backward.
Not available from your dealer anymore, as the car is more than 10 years old.
Autowreckers would be a good alternative source.Might be the same (or similar) part in a full size GM car such as a Caprice Roadmaster etc.

I work for the government, I understand "backwards." Is is possible to find this part in a salvage yard? I have the handle. Could it be reattached?

Autowreckers have lots of them. As far as reattaching....look at the holes, If the screws or bolts are pulled out, it might be possible to reattach with larger bolts. The threads would have to be tapped out to the next size (got a tap and die set?) Given that I am only guessing, without seeing, the holes could also be renewed right beside the pld ones.There is also a tool called a "Nutsert:" that installs like a hollow rivet with bolt threads inside. Probably the best method.

1993 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

need to know how to reconnect the spark plug wires, which plug to which terminal

What engine size please? How many coils are there?

Roger

Thank you, but I have already got my answer.

All Right, Thank you for giving us a try.

Roger

1993 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System   

need to know where the orifice tube is located

In the liquid line near a fitting on the way to the evaporator core.

Look for two uniform dents about four inches away from the fitting. The o-tube cannot be moved past these dents by system pressure.

Roger

1993 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System   

Electronic Climate Control flashes temperature setting when car is started. Temperature control will not switch off econ setting and compressor clutch will not engage. Car has 161,000 miles on odometer.

You can try to reset the system but it will likely need to be scanned with a GM capable scanner to retrieve fault codes.

1992 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

my car it will start then after you drive it for awhile and shut it off will not start again for 10 to 20 minutes later. Then today we drove it and it died while in idle. Then we jumped the starter and it went for about 8 miles and died going down the road at 70 miles and hour. it would not start again. we tried to jump it but it would not fire. a dealer said that it was the ignation switch and tumbler. and it had shut down everthing. how do you replace those things. mine has airbags and anti theft with computer chip in key. 1992 sse

Hello, I have seen this question "released" several times and I can't tell if anyone has offered you help you can use. Still need help?

Did the Dealer "guess" you have an ignition switch problem or actually diagnose your car?

Replacing the ignition lock cylinder and its' wiring for the anti-theft system requires special tools. Do you have steering column tools? The air bag can be a considerable risk to you if you are not familiar with disabling the system prior to making repairs in he column.

How do you want to proceed?,

Roger

i have the tools and experience to change the tumbler and switch but have never removed an air bag. need the steps on that. and any other info that you think i might need.

thank you

Can you see what style fastener holds the air bag on? Some are #30 Torx, some are a heavy gauge wire spring that twisting a flat tip screwdriver bit in the hole will release the bag.

Anyway, with the key "OFF" or in "Lock" pull the dash fuse labeled SIR or AirBag or whatever your owner's manual or fuse cover map calls it on your car.

Next, remove the left under dash close-out panel, locate the bright yellow wiring and it's connector that comes down from inside the steering column and connects to the car's wiring harness. Remove the connector's locking tab and disconnect the air bag's yellow harness from the car's yellow harness. Locate a two white wire harness coming out at the base of the column that has a black connector and disconnect it from the car's harness. These two white wires are the lock cylinder's harness to the anti-theft system's module.

Here, I recommend you pull the horn fuse or better yet, disconnect the turn signal switch wiring connector at the base of the column. You'll be pulling the turn signal switch up to get to the ignition lock cylinder retainer screw anyway so I disconnect it to facilitate the switch's movement for access.

Now it is time to turn the key from "Lock" to "OFF" so you can turn the steering wheel as needed to remove the air bag attaching screws and lift the bag from the mounted position high enough to disconnect the horn wire connector and the air bag from the column harness. The air bag connector will have a locking tab here too.
Remove and set the air bag down on the passenger front floor (connector side DOWN) so you are looking at the trim color of the bag. DO NOT set the bag trim side down as that is a safety hazard should the handling of the air bag involve an electrostatic spark.

Pull the steering wheel off.
Next, remove the snap ring that holds the SIR COIL in place and pull the coil toward you just far enough to clear the steering shaft for access to the turn signal switch. Remove the wave shaped spring washer that is directly below the SIR Coil that provides a spring load for the coil against the snap ring that actually retains the SIR Coil.
Remove the column steering lock ring for access to the turn signal switch.

Remove the turn signal switch actuator bracket that connects the lever to the switch. Remove the three screws that retain the turn signal switch and pull the switch toward you for access to the lock cylinder. Remove the key warning switch that covers the lock cylinder retainer screw (#20 Torx).

With a trace wire attached to the white wire connector at the bottom of the column, pull the lock cylinder and it's two white wire harness out of the column as it pulls the trace wire in. To rethread your new lock cylinder harness into the column just run the new harness through the lock cylinder hole first, attach the trace wire to the new connector and pull the trace wire back out of the column as it pulls the new harness into the column.

Install your lock cylinder retaining screw and with no key in the lock, install the key warning switch.

Draw the turn signal switch back into place and ensure that the white wires on the lock cylinder move freely with the rotation of the lock cylinder as you rotate the key. Any misrouting here will result in a broken wire so be sure nothing binds the lock cylinder wires. I loop them up through a square hole in the turn signal switch so they won't get pinched.

From here, assembly is reversal of previous steps you made with the last step of putting the SIR fuse back in while the key is "OFF" or "Lock".

What else for you?,

Roger

1992 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting When cold

Need to know the firing order for spark plug wires.

Hi;
Need to know the engine size? Thanks Les.

1992 Pontiac Bonneville Engine Making Noise Happens always Always

engine started knocking suddenly. can hear it most near the power steering fill and around the belt. noticed oil pressure on dash jumping between 40 and 80...80 being normal. pressing the gas in park eliminates the noise. at a loss

first thing I would check is the Harmonic Dampner (balancer). These are prone to coming apart on these FWD cars with the 3800 engine. Next step would be to determine if this knocking noise is upper end (lifters) or bottom end (rod bearings) You can normally tell a rod bearing because the noise is usually under load (in gear) and accelerating (or power braking) Lifters usually make noise in park or drive when accelerating, more of a tapping noise. if your motor is a high milage motor you could be hearing the timing chain. If you isolate it to this CHANGE THE CHAIN, if it breakes it will cause valves to bend from impacting the pistons. The last thing you might look for is if the noise could be wrist pin noise. Either way a good way to isolate the particular cylinder would be to remove the spark plug wires one at a time from the coil pack.Last resort would be to take it to a garage that you can trust to diagnose the noise. If I can assist you further you can email me directly at [redacted] upon accepting this response. Good luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1992 Pontiac Bonneville Fuel System Stalling When driving When warm 

ar runs fine. then suddenly dies while driving for awhile. Tow it to mechanic. Next day, strats right up. Two weeks pass; same routine. Never doesn't start by the time the mechanic gets it. Noticed that there was as light sputtering before engine dies.

I WOULD SAY TO START OFF WITH A FUEL INJECTOR AND GAS SYSTEM CLEANER.
THIS WILL HELP TO GET THE IMPURITIES OUT OF THE LINES
THEN NEXT THING IS THAT THERE SHOULD BE A CODE STORED IN THE COMPUTER FOR A FAILED COMPONET IF YOU COULD RUN A DIAGNOSTIC.
IT IS MOST LIKELY A PROBLEM WITH YOUR FUEL PRESSURE OR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.
IT IS POSSIBLY A CLOGGED OR CLOGGING FILTER
FROM THOSE SYMTOMS I BELIEVE THAT IT IS FUEL RELATED

Thanks, I have replaced the fuel filter and added Techron. The problem is knowing if that fixes the problem. You have to drive it around waiting to see if it will stall out again -- although so far I haven't noticed any of the stuttering or any other symptoms.Thanks

WELL YOU KNOW IT IS BEST TO TRY THE INEXPENSIVE THINGS FIRST.
WHEN THE PROBLEM IS NOT CONSISTENT ENOUGH
IT IS HIT AND MISS OR PROCESS OF ELIMINATION.
SOMETIMES THAT CAN GET PRETTY EXPENSIVE SO IT IS BETTER WHEN THE PROBLEM WORSENS BECAUSE YOU KNOW THE PROBLEM YOU NEED TO CONSENTRATE ON.
RUN A DIAGNOSTIC IF YOU GET A CHANCE GO TO A AUTO PARTS STORE AND MOST OF THE TIME THEY WILL DO IT FREE OF CHARGE.
I HOPE THIS HELPS

1992 Pontiac Bonneville All Part Groups   

My car had been running fine then one day I went out to start it and it ran but then stalled out...it would not restart until I opened both doors. As soon as I closed the doors it stopped running again. I continued to open the doors and it would start, shut the doors and it would shut off....eventually if I slammed all four doors it would start and stay running until it happened the next time...help!

This is a very unusual problem.

Will the starter spin the engine when it won't start?

Do you have spark to the plugs when it won't start?

Do you hear the fuel pump prime for a couple seconds when you initially turn the key on, during the no start?

yes to all three questions...

It sounds like you are losing injector pulse. It must be the security system (complicated to diagnose) or the computer.

1992 Pontiac Bonneville Engine   

I have a problem with my car stalling out at stop signs, sharp turns, and off ramps. No warning. What could be causing this?

Hi, One thing easy to check is to look at the throttle plate in the throttle body and see if it is gummed up with sticky fuel deposits. It is best cleaned with carb/choke cleaner.

If the throttle is sicking at the closed position it will be difficult for the idle speed control to maintain the correct idle speed.

Roger

1992 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I put on my brakes, the stereo clock dims and the front end signal lights come on as well as the instrument red display lighting. The light dimmer control knob doesn't work as it should.

Sounds like a possible short circuit in the brake light system.
First place I would check is the trunk area,
poss trailer hitch wiring? Also carefully examine the light bulbs as they can on rare occasions short internally.Replacing the dimmer switch might solve the problem if it is shorting inside.I would try unplugging it first to see if problem changes.

1992 Pontiac Bonneville All Part Groups   

hi i was getting no heat from my heater so i changed my radiator and thermostat and fluids and i still have no heat do i need to flush out my heater coil and if i do how do i do it

Hello, Run the engine until it is at operating temperature and turn the heater on hi temp and hi fan.

Raise the hood and feel the two hoses that connect at/through the firewall. Are they both hot to the touch? They are cooling system supply and return to the heater core and they should be hot if there is coolant flow through the heater core.

If these heater core hoses are hot there may be a problem with the temperature door actuator.

If the heater hoses are not both hot, let the system cool down so you can depressurize the cooling system and disconnect the hoses.

Backflush the heater core using sections of heater hose you can purchase by the foot from an auto parts store. Some like to use a cooling system flush kit that attaches to a garden hose and one of the heater hose ends. If that works for you give it a try.

When in my shop I use water and force it through the core both ways using compressed air as the energy to do the work.

What would you like to do?

Roger

Have you fixed this one? Please update.

Roger

1990 Pontiac Bonneville Engine   

car won' start when cold but starts good when in heated garage or block heater is plugged in please help

You need to start by checking for spark to the spark plugs during the no start condition. Let me know if there is spark and we'll go from there.

3.8 liter v6 put new plugs,wirers,coil pack,module,
runs fine when hot but just keeps cranking over when
cold also changed temp sensor

It seems the only thing missing is the crank angle sensor. It will give the same failure you have. That is why I suggested checking for spark, to confirm it is a secondary ignition problem.

i will check spark thankyou

Okay, good. Do you have a repair manual for your car, if not there is a free one available online. Let me know if you need the link.

yes please it would be a big help thank you

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

i checked spark it is ok but when i cranked it over
itstarted for a second and shut off but would not
start again just crank over lots of spark

I believe your engine has a camshaft sensor, this could be the cause of no fuel injector pulse. This assumes you still have fuel pressure but the injectors do not have pulse.

thank you i will try that

1990 Pontiac Bonneville Fuel System   

*Vehicle may or may not start,
*surging idle,
*irratic blinking and/or constant Service Engine Light display,
*Vehicle dies and will most of the time restart, will exhibit surging idle for between 10-30 seconds, and then dies again.
**The fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition switch, and a massive vacuum leak at the throttle plate have been serviced/fixed within the last 7 weeks. Vehicle continues to exhibit the symptoms (previously listed) after the fixes as before the servicing.

Also, within the last 3-4 months, the "computer" was replaced. The symptoms ceased for a while, until they resumed 7 weeks ago.

First ascan of codes will be in order. If I had to hazard a guess, I might think there are multiple problems.Perhaps a crankshaft sensor and or Idle air Control.
Pull off the air intake hose at the throttle body, remove the throttle body and the IAC (Idle Air Control) and use at least an entire can of air intake cleaner.
But first a Scan for codes is important.

(I can't tell, but this may end up being a duplicate reply--not sure if one that I just sent really did process. So, just to make sure, here it is again.)

OK. Thank for the reply. I'll give your suggestions a try.

Regarding the scans, I think my mechanic did a scan. I'll ask him, just to make sure.

(I wish my mechanic had been as quick with servicing the vehicle, as you were with the response!)

Erractic behavior the hardest to diagnose!
If he scanned, he should have told you.
I sometimes plug in the scanner and drive
the car with it on, to see what comes up.

1989 Pontiac Bonneville Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start  When cold

When I attempt to start the car-it buzzes- after 3 or 4 attemps the car starts. Is it the starter Motor?

You may very well need a new starter. But always check connections and grounds. Make sure they are secure and are not inhibited by corrosion. Chances are you are dead on about the starter. Inspect the flywheel teeth upon removal of starter. Make sure there is not significant wear or damage to the teeth. Once you have the starter off, most autopart store will test it free of charge.

1989 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

cranks but wont start, engine was running,but checking a cable next to the horn I touched grnd with same and car died. what relay to ck and where?

You need to start by checking fuses and fusible links (if you car has them).

dash fuses are ok, fuselinks?? where to look,Bonneville,model 89SE

Between the battery and starter are a common location for fusible links. Also check to see if there is a fuse/relay box underhood.

Use the following link to access a repair guide which will be helpful in diagnosing your problem, the link contains wiring diagrams also-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1989 Pontiac Bonneville All Part Groups Malfunction When braking Always

MY ABS PUMP COMES ON EVERY TIME I APPLY THE BRAKES

It sounds like you have a bad accumulator which is designed to act as a reservoir for the high pressure brake fluid. When the internal bladder fails, there is no reserve and it requires repressurizing with every application.

THE CONNECTION TO MY ABS PUMP HAS POWER EVEN WITH THE KEY ON THE OFF POSITION AT TIMES

SORRY FOR NOT ADDING THAT OTHER BIT OF INFO I HAD JUST REMEMBERD THAT I HAD 12 VOLTS TO ABS PUMP MOTOR WITH KEY ON OFF POSITION AT TIMES. SORRY

We have had problems with the ABS relay sticking on. This can make the pump run even when the car is off. The relay is not expensive.

1989 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

When trying to start the car it turns over then the starter stops. It fires but it back fires a bit then starter stops again. After 3 times it will start and runs fine the light for service engine stays on could this be a sensor

Hello, What engine please? Do you have a distributor?

Roger

the engine is a 3.8 liter and it has a distributer

Take a real close look at the distributor cap inside. Is it cracked? Do you see any signs of carbon tracking or moisture? Is the rotor in good condition? Have you tried setting the timing?

Roger

the rotor and cap seem to be fine and i havant set the timing. when it starts it runs smooth and idles smooth

For the engine to begin to crank and then stop abruptly, then continue to crank sounds like a timing issue to me.

Will you set the timing and see how/if that helps?

Roger

why is the srevice engine light on i will check the timing on it in a minute

I didn't know the check engine light was on. Have you checked for codes?

When you put the computer in diagnostic mode to set the timing the check engine light will come on. That's normal.

Does that answer your question...?

Roger

how to you but the computer in dianistic mode to set the timing

In the ALDL connector under the dash there are two terminals that are side by side. Jumper those two terminals together.

Roger

where under the dash are these terminals and what will that do

There is a diagnostic female connector under the driver's side of the dash. It is about 3/4" X 2" and is the place where a code reader (OBD I) can be plugged in to read codes.

When you jumper the two terminals that are side by side the computer will enter diagnostic mode and begine to flash codes if present. It also puts the ignition system in the set timing mode by bypassing any electronic timing advance applied by the computer.

This connector is often right on the lower edge of the dash panel or mounted vertically near the park brake.

I have also seen them mounted vertically in a cut-out of the under dash trim close-out panel near the middle of dash.

Roger

Any news here?

Roger

1989 Pontiac Bonneville Heating / Cooling System   

not very much air flow on either heat or a/c is there any way to check I am a hvac tech

yes you have to check the main heater ac switch to make sure it is opening and closing the seperator door.
inside of the ac heater assembley there is
the function cable that needs to be checked it controls the door to the plenum and it may need to be adjusted.
I hope tis helps

1989 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

no fire to coil pack or spark, all wires are fine. have replaced ignition module, coil pack, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, new ecm,egr,crank and cam sensor, wires, battery,alternater, hamonic balancer. still cannot get car to fire, but engine will turn over, also fuel pressure is good, new fuel and air filter.

Hello, What engine please? 3.8L? Is Fuse #4 good? It powers the fuel pump relay and the Ignition Control Module (ICM) terminal F.

Roger

Yes it is the 3.8l. The fuse is okay, but will check again

Could this have anything to do with the ignition switch on the steering column. The wires are soldered to the male electrical tabs. All wires show the proper votage.

Wire terminals soldered to the ignition switch male terminals would tell me the switch comes with a wire harness pigtail as an assembly.

If voltage readings are good at the switch male terminals and you want to see if there is a problem, follow the wires down to a connector at the car's wire harness to look for trouble there. (Not likely you will find one)

With the key ON have you used a meter or test light to test for voltage at the ICM terminal F?

Roger

Could any of this have to do with the cars security system. It is an sse bonneville. Would something about the security system not let the car fire to start. The ignition key does not have the code on it

One thing at a time please. With the key ON have you used a meter or test light to test for voltage at the ICM terminal F? Have you checked the car for diagnostic codes?

Please advise,

Roger

Yes and there was voltage there, can check again. The codes that come up are old codes.

Wait a second.....Terminal F (Blk Wire) on the ICM is a cam reference input to the ECM. There should be 12 volts with key on at ICM Terminal P (PNK-BLK Wire).

Please recheck.

Roger

1988 Pontiac Bonneville Ignition System   

Vehicle dies hot or cold, sometimes will start right back up, may have to sit awhile before restarting

On the rear of engine block, just above the pan rail, is the crankshaft position sensor,
It has a 2 wire connection plug.
It is attached with one 8mm or 5/16 head bolt.
Symptoms of it failing are:
1)Hot start problems.
2)Cold start problems
3)No start problems
usually in that order.
Cheap fix, hard to get to sensor though!

The crankshaft position sensor supplies the 18x signal to ignition control module. The engine will not start unless the ignition control module sees both 18x and 3x signal during cranking.Both signals must be present or the ignition control module will not deliver the fuel injector pulse to the powertrain control module. The system has no provisions for codes if the ignition control module looses the 3x and 18x input signals.

And is the ignition control module and crank sensor operating properly?

Since the Crankshaft Position Sensor has been replaced the condition has improved somewhat ( the Cam Position Sensor and Cam's Magnet were also changed some time ago). I do not know in which condition is the Ignition Central Module. (To make the situation clearer the torgue convertor has been disconnected from the transmission).The error signals that we are getting is the
QDM Error and TRANS Error because of the disconnected torque convertor. Please advise what to do next. I do realize that this is quite an intricate situation!

If you can, check the condition of the wiring fron the Ignition Module and the wiring that goes from it to the Crank Sensor.
Why was the lockup converter disconnectd?

The lockup convertor was disconnected because it locks-in around 60 miles/h,
the speed that I rarely use in downtown Phoenix.

This might sound like a strange way to determine the failure rate of a part, but I some times call the local Auto Parts Store (NAPA?) and ask how many of the Ignition modules they have on the shelf.If they have many, assume they fail often! If none or just a few, then they are probably seldom failing.

OK. Many thanks for your advise.

you are welcome!

1987 Pontiac Bonneville All Part Groups   

I purchased a 87 Bonneville from a charity auction. Running, but rough. Replaced all the plugs and wires, and changed the fluids as well as the O2 and maf sensor and the fuel filter. It would run and once it would warm up it would turn off. Replaced the crankshaft sensor not realizing it had to be gapped. I do not know the proper gap or how to gap it. It is getting gas, has spark but will not start sounds as if it's timing is off.

I need to know what engine you have in it and was it starting and shutting off up until you changed the Crankshaft position sensor?
i will check on that gap for you

engine is 3.8 V-6

Yes, it was shutting off when warm up until the crankshaft sensor change.

thanks for you your help, will eagerly await your reply

Loosely install the crankshaft sensor on the pedestal.

Position the sensor, with the pedestal attached, on crankshaft sensor installation tool J 37089 or equivalent.

Install the bolt to hold the pedestal to the block face, then tighten to 14-28 ft. lbs. (20-40 Nm).

you should be installing the sensor with a special tool that will place it in the right way.
Now you can also play with the position untill it fires up to justto get it started.
Do you have a check engine light on also ?

You can probably get this tool from a auto-parts store.
J37089 in the number or name.
I can send you some diagrams on the CPS intall if you like just give me a email address to email them to you.

would love the diagrams! [redacted]
Part costs almost as much as the car did :) Will see if we can rent one, but have been told by local parts store gap key would work if we could find out what the gap is. Car won't start so check engine light Q is on, it's always on until it starts. When it was running, the only code we got was 34-maf sensor...reason we replaced it. Any other suggestions and the gap would be greatly appreciated.

You can have it scanned free of charge at auto-zone info is sent to [redacted]