Pontiac Firebird

2002 Pontiac Firebird Engine   

Intermittent engine stalls. You can drive the car for two hours on the highway and then it stalls when you are still on the highway driving. Around town after it reaches operating temp if you shut it down and then go back to start it it may or may not start. There is no common point to when it occurs, except that it warmed up.

Hi, What engine please?

When the engine cranks but won't start do you have spark? If not try spraying brake parts cleaner on the crankshaft sensor to cool it and then see if it starts. If so, replace the sensor.

Roger

Are you there? I'm wanting to help you with your car.

Roger

2002 Pontiac Firebird Engine   

My 2002 pontiac formula has been upgraded with SLP headers and a Borla exhaust system. About 1-2 weeks later the check engine light came on and it was the exhaust sensors, so I replaced both the left and the right. Two days later the check engine light came on again for the same thing(exhaust sensor). Do you have any idea of what to do next? I would appreciate any help, thanks Nick...

Hello
My advice would be to get some header wrap. They sell it at just about any autoparts store. It would solve a lot of current and future problems.
Heavychevy

Thanks for the advice, I will try that and see what happens. Nick...

.

..

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your firebird.
Heavychevy

2002 Pontiac Firebird Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

No vibration at all. Then changed worn origninal stock 235/55/16 inch non directional tires (GoodYear Eagle GAs touring) to 245/50/16 inch Falken ZX High Performance directionals tires on stock rims with standard balance and alignment. Immediately had a steering wheel and frontend vibration.

So I changed to aftermarket 17 x 7.5 rims with 245/45/17 Falken zx directional tires (with standard alignment). Same vibration. Changed to 245/45/17 Yokohama S Drive directional tires (with standard balance). Same vibration. Changed to 245/45/17 GoodYear Eagle LS 2 touring non directional tires with Hunter Road Force balance and alignment checked. Same vibration. Took it back and had Road Force tire/wheel balance redone. Same vibration. Changed front rotors and brake pads. Same vibration. Jacked up front end and pulled on wheels up and down and side to side. No movement at all up and down and only slight movement side to side.

Only changing tires started this vibration. Steering wheel vibrates. Sometimes side mirrors vibrate and sometimes I can feel it in gas pedal. Vibration occurrs at all speeds, in neutral coasting. How do I fix the steering wheel vibration? Thanks.

I had problems one time with a tire balance machine out of balance. EVERY tire we balanced on it was out of balance and vibrated on the road. Typically tire balance vibrations are worst around 35 mph and 70 mph. If that matches your symptoms, I suspect a balance issue. Has the same shop/machine been used each time? To check the accuracy of a tire balance machine, have a tire balances, rotate it 180* on the machine and spin it again. It SHOULD read 0 weight needed, (or the smallest amount). If not, the machine not working right.

No. I used three different tire shops to install all three (3) different sets of tires.

With finaly balance being the Hunter Road Force balance, they checked everything including runout, matched tire position to rim position and used a roller against tire to balance it at highway speeds. They place weight on inside of rim edge AND on inside of rim toward the front. With some type of specs they said anything under 20 is acceptable and after the balance job my tires/wheels were at 4 to 6.

I had the same problem with a 99' Firebird as well. Never resolved it. Everyone said it must be aftermarket rims. BUT, with the 2002' Firebird, I FIRST changed only the tires and used stock rims AND still had vibration. Then I tried aftermarkt rims with aftermarket tires and had same vibration. If feels like very excessive road feel.

Sounds like wheel balance has been well covered.

You definitely will get more road feel/coarser ride with a larger rim/lower profile tire, and higher performance tires. I suppose you have riden other Firebirds/Camaros with these tires? How do they feel?
Dale

No. Only ridden/driven my 5 Firebirds. Only in 99' and 2002' have I encountered this vibration after changing tires and or rims. Asked other Firebird owners about it. They said should have road feel with directional/high speed rated tires and with 245/45/17s. But I should NOT have the vibration.

Last tire tech that drove the 2002' with me said he could feel the vibration and could not explain why it was doing it because my tires/rims were perfectly Road Force balanced and said he would change front rotors/pads. I did and it still has vibration.

You said it happens at all speeds, please confirm this remains the case and be specific (speed it starts, changes, etc). At all speeds, would tend to indicate a mount/shock issue.

I want to run symptoms against a checklist to see if it reveals anything. Did the first shop say if the alignment was off much?

Have you been to shop that uses /sound devices to measure frequencies. The frequency isolates the problem to specific cause (the dealer recommended method).

Just drove it. Seems vibration is less under 40 mph and more at 45 - 65 mph, but it vibrates at all speeds and even in neutral coasting. Although we have road feel, that varies with road surface and is expected with directionals or high speed sticky tires or low profile tires. However, The vibration occurs all the time. We have had car since new and never wrecked or damaged. My wife babys the car.

First shop only mounted and standard balanced 245/50/16 directional Falken highspeed tires on STOCK rims. Vibrated.

Second shop mounted and standard balanced 245/45/17 directional Yokohoma S drive highspeed tires on aftermarket rims from 99' Firebird AND did a 4 wheel alignment. They infact did say the alignment was "off a little". After the second tire shop, still had vibration AND the steering felt "heavy".

I do not know if any of the three (3) shops used a sound device to measure frequencies.

I know the third shop used a Hunter machine to do a "Road Force" balance and it is suppose to remove rim/tire vibrations.

I also found where a different car brand owner put a larger front swaybar and accidentally fixed their vibration problem. So I went and tightened the front swaybar endlinks. It did not help.

I also found where different car brand owners have replaced the control arm bushings and fixed their vibration problem. Should I try this???? or somthing eles???? Please help.

I am stuck with the latest set of 245/45/17 (GoodYear Eagle LS 2 touring)as they are the third new set we tried in the last three weeks and I can not return anymore. I would have got the stock 16' GoodYear Eagle GAs but the place where I got credit does not sell them.

I went ahead and tried our 17 inch custom rims from our 99' Firebird since the first set of tires we tried were put on our STOCK rims AND we still had vibration, therefore, I thought our aftermarket rims must be true and not bent.

Please help.

I almost forgot to mention that, after I replaced front rotors and pads, I put jackstands under both control arms and rotated the wheels. Both turned freely, but I could hear the new brake pads touch the new rotors only in one spot.

While waiting for a reply I had tightened the front swaybar end links. This made the vibration worse.

So I loosened the end link bolts some. I also noticed that front wheel new brake pads touched the new rotors only in one spot (I have floating calipers). So I removed rotors and cleaned rust from hubs. I also noticed that the lug nuts were torqued to factory spec of 100 ft. pounds from tire shop. However, I could loosen lug nuts with wheels off the ground. Lug nuts did not seem tightened enough at 100 Ft. pounds. So I re-tightened the lug nuts to 105 ft. pounds.

I drove the car and it had LESS vibration. There is still a vibration but it is less. I do not know if it was the tightened swaybar endlinks, or rust behind rotors or lugnut torque????????

Probably not lug nut torque as the wheels would fall off if too loose.

The rust can be stubborn to remove from the hub, use a light and make sure all rust is gone. Also make sure the rust has not caused damage (run-out) to the new rotors.

You may have lug nuts that require re-torquing, in this case they can loosen over time. Are the wheels spinning freely? That is pretty loose if you can loosen off the ground.

Are the brakes even now?

Yes, wheels spin freely. On right front, new brake pad touches the new rotor constantly (before pad touched rotor only in one place). On the left front it sounds like pad still only touches rotor in one place. However, I have floating calipers, so I do not know if that matters anyway.

There was not much rust at all on either stud hub. It was just surface rust but I removed it.

I must over torque my lugnuts or the stock 100 ft. pounds is not enough for aftermarket rims? Never been able to loosen lugnuts with wheel off the ground until now.

What eles should I try?

have you checked for 'runout' on the rotor? Sometimes improper torqe or torque sequence can slightly warp a rotor

Yes. I removed NEW rotors and had them checked out. They are fine. Since new rotors and brake pads, lugnuts torqued to Firebird factory specs. of 100 ft. lbs, with aftermarket rims this amount seems to loose as I can loosen lugnuts with wheels off the ground. So I torqued them only 5 more ft. lbs.

Hello
This sounds like a sway bar or bad sway bar bushings I would just replace with the same size, making sure you dont over tighten as it will deffinaiely make it vibrate more.
Heavychevy

Should I try urethane bushings or stock rubber bushings?

Go urethane

I just found on ebay, ws6 Trans Am swaybars that are larger diameter than mine and will fit. Would larger and stiffer swaybars also help? Or should I just go with urethane bushings?

It would make it stiffer with a larger diameter and would handle a little differently. Putting different size equipement on cars especially items like this can cause a slight change in handling. So I cant suggest and strongly disgourage this practice for safty and other reasons, but personnaly If it was my car I would do the bigger sway bar and the new bushings for increased handling. I have had friends witch have put bigger swaybars on with no problems and it has increased handling. Its a personal call for you but I would do it to my car to stop any shaking.
Heavychevy

Yes. On several previous firebirds (I have owned 5), I have put the larger diameter swaybars on. Great handling.

My only concern with a stiffer setup in this firebird is that, when I tightend the stock swaybar endlinks to try to stiffen it, the vibration felt worse. When I loosened the swaybar endlinks back to where it was before the vibration was less.

I would just get all the new pieces and than tighten accordingly (probly loose). I would say that would help To me it sounds like something got bent even slightly somehow and tightning is making it worse.

Okay. I will give it a try and report back my results. Thanks.

Yeah keep me updated please and good luck.
heavychevy

2001 Pontiac Firebird Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a WS6 and I can't figure out how to get to the daytime running lights to change a burned out bulb. I can't get to it from under the car and I can't reach it through the engine. Any suggestions?

Look for the instructions in your owners manual. Let me know if you have them.

My information system is down at the moment.

I paid $50 for the owners manual, and the running lights aren't mentioned except for the loction of the fuses. I've read the manual front to back, checked the internet and that's why I ended up here.

2001 Pontiac Firebird Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I put my headlights down the drivers side light assembly will make a strange sound for just a short while then stop. The lights go up and down fine, it's just the one that makes the sound. What can I do to fix it or make it stop doing that. I would really like to not replace the motor if I don't have to.

All you can do is closely examine the linkage and mechanism and apply lube to the unit. Sometimes a grinding noise is due to the unit sticking or having some dirt and debris in it.
Manually opn it and clean the pivot points (I use WD40) and lube with white grease. (I use white grease in an aerosol can)
Do both sides.

I will give that a try tomorrow. Thanks for the fast response. I'll let you know how it works out and see where to go from there.

1999 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups Malfunction When driving Always

Hi, This problem just started today. My car was very low on fuel, and suddenly the service engine soon light came on and the car began to lose power. I filled up the fuel tank, but the service engine soon light is still on (blinks when I accelerate) and the car has very little power. Did something break when I was running out of fuel? Thanks, Daniella

sounds like fuel filter or fuel pump but could be many other things need to have vehicle checked out

I forgot to mention, I'm getting a pretty noisy rattling sound--sounds like a fast clacking. It is most noticeable when idling.
Thanks.

Where is the noise coming from?

You might also disconnect the battery for a few minutes. That resets the computer.Might get rid of the check engine light.

How would disconnecting the battery solve the problem that my car has no power and that it makes a rattling sound?

Sometimes when a check engine light comes on, it is a result of some of the adjustments are incorrect.Disconnecting the battery, causes the computer to reset or relearn the correct settings.Where is the rattle coming from? Is the oil level up on the engine?

Okay, now I get what you're saying about the battery. Not sure how to disconnect it though.
Also, about the noise, I don't exactly know where it's coming from. At first I thought it was from another car, but then I realized that my car was doing it--sounded like something was loose. I can tell it's on the left side of the car-isn't the transmisson right in front of the driver?

The transmission is behind the engine, in center of car, below the shifter and console.The fuel pump is electric and located at the rear of the car.When good it makes a quiet humming noise. When bad it buzzes loudly or quits totally.Never run out of gas, it can burn out the pump.
The noise...when parked or driving? If while parked, walk around car to determine location of noise.
PS,A RH noise can sound like a LH noise if only the drivers window is down.
Look at the fusebox for ECM fuse, unplug it for a few minutes,as this should be the same as disconnecting battery.
Bruce

Your noisy clacking could be an exhaust noise or even a spark plug wire off...or?

1999 Pontiac Firebird Engine   

My husband was driving at highway speeds (70 mph) lost oil pressure and it died. Rattles now when started. Is the engine blown? No water in the oil nor does it smell burnt. Could this be a oil pump problem? Not sure where to turn. Thanks

Hello,

Does the engine only rattle at start-up?

Please describe, as best you can, the location of the rattle: Top, bottom, center, etc of engine.

Does oil pressure register now?

Yes, it could be the oil pump. For the time being don't continue to run the engine if there is lack of oil pressure or a rattle.

To be honest this happened a year ago and the car has been sitting ever since. To the best of my knowledge it was only started 2 times and turned off immediately. Once on the side of the highway when it first happened and once at the garage we had it towed to. The guy at the garage said that the motor was shelled (whatever that means) and it would cost more to tear into it than it would be to replace the motor at 2800.00.

I do not know where the rattle was coming from or if it has any oil pressure. I can try starting it when I get home today and see.

Okay, remember not to continue to run the engine if the rattle continues.

How long do I wait to see it if stops rattling? and check the oil pressure right?

Ok after talking to my son, I say rattle.. he says its not a rattle. Its a hard knock. But if it is not getting oil to the top side of the motor wouldn't it knock?

Ten seconds is about as long as you should wait.

If the top dside is not getting oil, it'll surely make noise. If the noise is lower in the engine serious damage is probable.

Which engine do you have?

Its a 6 cylinder is all I know

Okay, give me an update.

Well it is the 3.8L V6. We decided to just but the rebuild kit and try rebiulding the oil pump ourselves. The kit was on 37.00 so I thought it was worth a shot. We are in the process if tearing it down. need a harmonic balancer puller but could get a loaner today. We will try back again tomorrow.

1995 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups Overheating When driving Always

Hello, I have a 1995 Pontiac Firebird Formula LT1V8. It is overheating right now it is up 260 replaced themostat (not from the dealer) coolant temp sensor (both, replaced coolant fan relays (main one)fans operate with A/C but do not seem to operate during normal operation. What else can cause this situation water pump??? Thanks

Hi;
There should be asendig unit next to the water pump. Disconnect it and see if the fans come on. If they don't, I would get a wiring diagram and check from the fuse box up to the sensor. Most likely you will find a bad connection somewhere. Good Luck Les.

We replaced the sending unit and thermostat at the start of the problem. As per your advice fans came on when disconnected . Why won't they operate when connected to (new) sending unit does this process cause a service engine soon light to come on? What do we do with the new sending unit? Why won't the system function with this new sending unit.

Hi;
Even though it is new does not mean is properly working. If you bought one from a local auto parts store, I have gotten bad parts from some. This will cause the engine light to come on due to the computer not been able to get a reading from the coolant. If will also in most cases cause more fuel compsumption. Might want to try another one. Good Luck Les.

1995 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups Overheating When driving Always

Hello, I have a 1995 Pontiac Firebird Formula LT1V8. Problem overheating. Is the low coolant light tied in with the cooling fan circuit? Everytime the low coolant light comes on I cannot control the temperature of the car it starts out at 210 then the low coolant light comes on then the temperature goes up to 260. What is causing the low coolant light to come on?

WELL IF THE LOW COOLANT SENSOR IS ACTIVATED NORMALLY THE COOLANT IS LOW
ANOTHE REASON FOR THE LOW COOLANT LIGHT WOULD BE A MALFUNCTIONING WATER PUMP,WHERE THE WATER IS NOT REACHING THE SENSOR
SO i WOULD CHECT THE LEVELS AND THE WATER PUMP OPERATION

HOPE THIS HELPS

Thank you for responding so quickly. I love this service,it is great. What is the easiest way to get to the water pump and what is the normal charge to replace a water pump on this type of car. This is my son's car and I don't want him being taken advantage of by being over charged.

the easist way is to pull the radiator and all th belt attached conponents
this way you can access the water pump bolts with ease
normally the charge is about 150.00 with the pump included

Had water pump replaced. Turned car on still overheating and low coolant still comes on. Coolant level ok. Disconneted sending unit, fans direct. Temperature at 200 but low coolant light stays on.

Please help.

Thanks

it is a must that you flush the engine out with some gunk engine flush to clear out those cores that is possible all that is left

1995 Pontiac Firebird Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

there is a constant screech (worse when hot) which goes away when I apply the brakes - do I need a new rotor?

Probably worn brake pads (they have an indicator that rubs the rotor at a specified wear point). The rotors, if worn, should be replaced too (they can be resurfaced if not to bad, but "white box" rotors are not to expensive).

1995 Pontiac Firebird Ignition System   

Ignition does not engage at all. Car ran fine then would not restart after being turned off. Does not turn over. Battery fully charged. Accessory and other key functions still work. Starter checks out OK. Thinking some kind of relay failure? Get this, when you press the HORN, the car actually turns over for a second?!

Sounds like the ignition switch on column out of adjustment or has failed.Moving the horn button might move it slightly.Check the switch first

Do you know what color wire off the column switch that should power the ignition and cranking trigger circuit? Strangely, cranking on the key still makes a big relay over the foot board click.

Test the output of the relay with
a volt/ohm meter and a test light.

1995 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups   

my car is running hot the water is circulating and the heat blows hot also i need a new air pump and there is a rough idle how do i fix the rough idle and over heating problem Jeff

First check the rad for blockage.Look under cap. Also, when car warmed up, check surface of rad for temp differences. If there is, rad partially blocked.
Replace air pump. Check plug wires, plugs, and ignition in general. Do compression test. If there are differences in compression, it will not idle totally smooth.

how do i do a compressions test i plan on flushing my radiator tommorrow so ill let you know what i find out

You require a screw in comp tester.Remove all plugs .Test one at a time , record the numbers.If one or two substantionally low, redo those with about 1/2 teaspoon oil added to plug hole.Again record the numbers.

should i be getting white smoke from the exhaust during a radiator backflush

never, sounds like head gasket problem or head crack.

1994 Pontiac Firebird Ignition System   

how to set the distributor do u need a tool? this is 5.7v8 with opti spark distributor

Install the distributor assembly into position with the driveshaft in the end of the camshaft. Rotate the distributor coupling until the camshaft sprocket pin slot aligns with the camshaft sprocket pin. Slide the distributor onto the end of the camshaft until fully seated on the engine front cover.

Install the distributor mounting bolts. Tighten to 8-9 ft. lbs.

The 5.7L (VIN P and 5) engines utilize the Opti-Spark distributor ignition system, which consists of a distributor assembly, control circuitry and an external coil. In the Opti-Spark system, all ignition timing is controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM), based on signals from the distributor's internally mounted optical camshaft position sensor. There is no way to bypass the ECM/PCM control or to adjust/set ignition timing on this system.

You can access the complete replacment procedure from the repair guide at the following link-

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm

Copy and Paste the link into your address bar.

1994 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups   

Hello MY name is Walter. Clarkkid1c@aol.com
After letting the car sit over the winter, it needed a batery. Lifetime batery replaced at Sears. Leaving Sears the car stalls. Let the car sit, starts up and runs for one to ten min then stalls. then its hard to start, easy to start, very inconsistant. Sears can't help, they don't fix cars... In the parking lot we install new tps. We check for spark at coils. Clean air filter. End up getting a tow home.
At home, found the fuel pressure was off, so installed new fuel pressure regularor and rail, pressure is fine. Car stil starts runs then stalls. Then found that after stalling there is no spark when trying to restart. let the car sit then it starts. All the coils tested good. We installed a new spark control module and the car starts and runs good. I test drove it and as the car warms up the idle keeps getting higher from 900 up to 17,000rpm. So then I installed a new map sensor and idle air control valve and pcv and all vacume lines and O2 sencers. Install one part at a time and disconect batery for each. nothing helps. And now the car is running worse and worse. Hard to start, backfires some on intake side, idles high, sometimes stalls in gear.
We dont understand this computer stuff. We try to pull the trouble codes using the jumper wire under the dash like the book shows, and the rad fan just starts. the dash dont blink...
We wish we could play with the timing and ajust the carb, guise those days are gone.
any ideas?

Whenever I install a new TPS, I ALWAYS ose a scan tool (Snap On) to adjust the TPS. It is pretty much impossible to adjust without one.
Also it is common for gas tanks to aquire moisture from sitting over the winter. The best precaution for that are store with full tank and use a fuel stabalyzer .
Even there are no codes, a tech with a scanner can tell much about the car.And that will be reasonably priced compared to changing all those sensors.

1991 Pontiac Firebird Engine Overheating When troubleshooting Always

We have the 305 V8 w/tbfi. The fan doesn't come on unless you turn on the a/c. I have purchased a coolant temp. switch but I can't find on any where on the engine. Can you tell me where it is or am I chasing a ghost?

Hi Del;
The only other sensor I know of its UNDER HOOD, CENTER, UPPER ENGINE AREA, FRONT DRIVER SIDE OF ENGINE, MOUNTED ON CYLINDER HEAD. On some of this models you can start the car up and disconnect the sensor. The fan should start right up. Thanks Les.

Les,
Let me start with this. This is my 16yo's car. They flushed the coolant out and messed up the radiator in the process(this is in auto class in school!!!). I have replaced the Radiator, thermostat,and Temp sensor for the temp gauge. The fan isn't coming on unless you start up the AC, so, I picked up a coolant temp switch but, it is no where to be found on the engine. The Hayns manual is being very worthless at this point. Is this part hidden behind something?
The part that you stated I believe is the sensor for the temp guage, it is left (passenger side) and in front of the thermostat housing, correct?
Also, this is a Califorina car if that makes any diff.
Thanks
del

Hi;
Home

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR


On your 1991 PONTIAC FIREBIRD, the COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR is:




UNDER HOOD, CENTER, UPPER ENGINE AREA, FRONT OF INTAKE MANIFOLD, MOUNTED FRONT OF WATER OUTLET


Good Luck Les.

1991 Pontiac Firebird Ignition System Won't Start  

NEED TO KNOW HOE TO BYPASS CHIP OR HOW TO POWER UP FULE PUMP TO FIND OUT IF CAR RUNS BEFOR I PAY FOR A CHIPKEY

Hello, This is a case of needing proper diagnosis before things get crazy.

The chip in the ignition key makes contact in the ignition lock cylinder. There are two white wires that run from the ignition lock cylinder down through the steering column and to a connector (near the base of the column).

See if you can find these two white wires and their connector. Unplug the connector, put the ignition key in the ignition. Use an OHMMETER to test the steering column side of the connector for a resistance reading.

Do you see a resistance value? Yes? Your key is okay! No? One of the white wires has broken at the ignition lock cylinder and a new lock cylinder with wiring will be needed. A mobil lock smith can do this if you are not a steering colunm repair person and don't want to tow to a shop.

Under the hood, there is a single wire connector on the engine harness left side near the brake master cylinder or the back of the engine valve cover (its not connected to anything) and the wire color is usually Gray. Jump 12 VDC to this wire connector and the fuel pump should run all the time. You should be able to hear the pump if you listen near the fuel tank.

If the wire is broken at the ignition lock cylinder; the engine will not start even if you jumper the fuel pump because the fuel injectors will not be commanded to work by the engine control module.

Roger

WHAT IS THE NEXT STEP I DO NOT HAVE ANY KEYS TO TIKE A READING FROM HOW CAN I BYPASS THE HOLE THING

A GM dealer, or a lock smith will have to use a tool that has all 15 values to determine which one yours is to make a correct key. That means having the lock smith come to you, or tow the car to a dealer.

A GM Dealer may be able to get the ignition value for you from General Motors based on the build records for the car.

Roger

Hello, please update the status of your question.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, any change in the status of this question?

Just checking in with you,

Roger

1991 Pontiac Firebird Engine Hesitating When driving When warm 

I have about 122,000 miles on the car. During driving the car will sputter between 2000 and 3000 rpms. Sometimes it dies and can be easy restarted in neutral or park. times it hits 0 rpm but restarts itself. This problem seems to happen only after 15 minutes of driving and then will go away and come back later on. I had the fuel pump,sending units, fuel filter, sparkplugs, battery, and wires changed but still come up with the same problem. Please help!

Steven W

Start by checking for troublecodes. Write down the troublecodes. If you get 2 or more troublecodes disconnect the negative battery cable for one minute to clear the codes. Test drive the car until the symptoms repeat. Now recheck the codes. Whatever troublecode(s) you get now are the most important.
Also let us know which engine you have, 3.1L, 5.0L 305, or 5.7L 350.

Here are instructions on pulling the troublecodes, it's easy to do. You can use a paperclip to ground the terminals.
Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste this link into your address bar-

http://www.autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-97.htm

Let me know the code numbers.

The engine size is a 3.1
I tested the car with GM code scanner and I only get code 12

Contact your local dealer and see if there is an updated prom (computer chip) available for this problem. GM had several problems with their computers during the time period your firebird was built.

I had an engine light come on today during my contining stuttering problem.. The code is 42
Should I replace my dustributer cap?

Code 42 is a tough code. It can be caused by a bad computer, ignition module, wiring for the computer and module, spark plug wires leaking, shorting fuel injectors.
The problem likely lies in the distributor or computer. The problem is to test these parts you need special test equipment. If any of these parts had died completely it would be much easier, but that is not the case.
Try this (assuming it always bothers between 2000 and 3000 rpms), temporarily unplug the TPS (throttle position sensor) and test drive in a safe location. Note- With the tps unplugged the engine light will be on. How does it run now? Does this change or eliminate the sputtering between 2k and 3k rpms?

i will try this and get back to you!
When I went to a mechanic the first time I had this problem they said to change the fuel pump and filter, which was done. However, they said it could also be the gas tank. Have you ever heard of this before??

Thank you

Steve

Highly unlikely to be the gas tank.

Here's one for you I read online about a pontiac with the same problem. When I drive the car in overdrive I have these problems however today I have been driving around in drive and do not experience any problems. I going to get a new ECM but what other suggestions do you have

Does your car only sputter when driving between 2-3k rpms? Or will it sputter if you rev engine in park at similar rpms?

Are they having the exact same problem you are? Have you tried drive and also had the problem disappear?

IT DOES NOT SPUTTER WHEN REV ONLY DURING DRIVING WHEN THE CAR IS DRIVEN IN OVERDRIVE

wHEN IT IS DRIVEN IN DRIVE GEAR I DONT HAVE PROBLEMS.

1991 Pontiac Firebird Ignition System   

I have a 1991 V6 Firebird that has an intermittant electrical problem. When start up all is fine but the speedometer doe not register. All of a sudden the engine quits,you can restart but seems like it is being starved for gas or spark and the speedometer registers pegged 120MPH and rolls up mileage continues missing for 5 minutes or so and you must keep 2,000 to 3000 rpm or it will die then returns to normal like nothing ever happened. Thru all of this no warning lights come on but temperature rises.HELP I am in Venezuela and not one technition here can figure it out!!!!

Sounds like there is an intermittent ground problem in the dash wiring and/or a VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor.
To fix the dash problem, the instrument cluster should come out and all the ground wires checked.A time consuming and tedius problem for sure. The vehicle speed sensor is located on the transmission, where the speedo cable comes out.

but would that cause the engine to die and run really rough when it started back??

The wiring grounding would, but it sounds like you have multiple problems.When there are more than one problem, diagnosis gets a little tricky. One has to be fixed, before you go to the next.
I would start with the VSS

1991 Pontiac Firebird Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the car will start and run fine for awhile, and then then while driving the guages will freak out back and forth and then the engine will cut out and die. it does restart but will do it again when driven

Start by cleaning (or replacing if necessary) the battery terminals/cables, engine & chassis grounds, etc. Let me know if this helps.

we have already done this

Check the alternator next.

You may also have a bad ecm or ignition switch.

Try a wiggle test on wiring harnesses with the engine running to see if you can recreate the problem. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

1990 Pontiac Firebird Fuel System   

I have a 5.7 auto vin# 8 tpi ,the car runs super rich in open loop.When car goes into closed loop it runs fairly well. The open loop the pulse width goes from 3.0 to over 15.0 ms, the pulse width goes up and all the time until it reaches closed loop.The fuel pressure is 47 psi. I checked the timing, it was set at 6 btdc in gear with the timing connector disconnected. The map and tps signals seem normal.When you shut the engine off and restart it goes to the same process. There are no diagnostic codes.The coolant and air temp sensors are the same at first start up .Can you please help

It sure sounds like the ECM is off, perhaps try an inexpensive swap from a junk yard. Most testing involves eliminating everything else as the cause which it appears you have covered well. Map, temp, tps, all stay reasonable on scanner seems to narrow it down to computer considering it runs okay warm. Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if it is any different, probably not but like to cover all inputs.

Fairly well after warm-up? I wonder how it'd run with clean cylinders/plugs once the problem is fixed. GM top engine cleaner works well, some use water but it really gets hot and can cause damage. Monitor for converter plugging afterwards.

Is it possible the EST could be causing the problem because I did the upper engine clean and new spark plus

When did you do the engine clean? Was this before the problem was present?

1990 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups   

my car turns off after i start it it stays five to two minutes

Hello,

Please elaborate on the condition you are experiencing???

My car starts in the morning but it only stays on for two to five minutes then it turns off. After a while, it will start again but only stay on for two to five minutes.

Okay,

Likely failures are the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) or the ignition module.

Checking for spark to the spark plugs during the no start failure will help to identify the problem. Lack of spark points to one of the two things above. If you have spark, the fuel system needs troubleshooting.

Does the check engine light come on while the engine is running?

No it doesn't.

Okay,

Do you know how to check for spark, or need instructions?

I don't know how to check.

If you'd like instructions I can send them if you leave your email address or will you be taking the car to the shop?

I will be taking my car to a shop.

1989 Pontiac Firebird Engine Malfunction When braking When warm 

After driving for a short while when coming to a stop my 1989 Firebird Formula 350 will stall out. I can shift it into nuteral and almost always the engine will rev up to about 1300 rpm than back down to about 900 rpm. During the stalling process the tach shows the rpm's oscillate down below 400 rpm's than the engine cuts off. One of the things I notice is that the oil pressure gauage shows a drop of oil pressure below 30 when stopping while normally driving the pressure is above 30 and at about 60. There is a 160 deg thermostat in this engine though I am not sure that this is heat related I do notice that in stop and go traffic the temp climbs to about 200 - 220 deg.
I have read about the idle air control motor and valve. I don't know where these are located can you point out where they are?
Also someone told me about the speed distance sensor or possiblely the ECM (the main computer?) could be bad. I have put in a new chip because the engine was a new crate engine from Scoggins and Dickie. It has a vortex head package and larger injectors. I have replaced the 700R4 transmission and put in a new rear axle with a 12 bolt Moser one.
Last the engine has Hooker Headers and has had the MAF replaced.
I hope this is enough information to help you point me in the right direction.
Thanks

Hello, you may have a transmission torque converter clutch (TCC) that isn't releasing properly. If so, the farther you drive the worse the problem will become until when you stop, if you don't shift to neutral, the engine will die/stall. And when you then select DRIVE to start moving again (since the TCC has not released) you may get the feeling you are in the wrong gear, or, the engine will stall the moment you put it in gear if you don't get on the gas quick!

If you let the car cool off, the problem will be gone until you drive say 15 miles or so, then it acts up again.

If this makes sense to you, I am believing your TCC Solenoid needs to be replaced because it is failing and won't release the clutch when you step on the brake pedal. There is a brake pedal actuated switch that commands the TCC "OFF" as you apply brakes. When the car is above about 48mph and is in 3rd or 4th gear, your computer commands the TCC "ON" provided the coolant temperature is above a preset threshold.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Thanks Roger
A few follow on questions are, is the TCC something I can replace? Also when I had the new engine and transmission put in they also put in a new toruqe converter. The old one didn't fit the bell housing or match up with the fly wheel if I have that right.
Is this something that is part of that or is it somewhere else on the engine, convert or transmisson?
One last thing should I still look at the (IAC) idle air control valve and motor? If so what should I look for and where are they located?
Thanks again for your reply

Yes, the torque converter clutch is inside the torque converter itself. But the TCC Solenoid and it's wiring harness are inside the tranny drain pan. You would need to remove the pan and the filter inside to get to the solenoid and change it. If you are good at mechanical devices and don't mind the mess, you could do this. Huge points if you have access to a lift!! You can follow how and where it goes by comparing the new one you hold in your hand to what you see inside the tranny pan.

Most often the problem is the solenoid and the TCC clutch is just fine. The clutch does what it is told to do. A wrong signal or a sticking solenoid causes the clutch performance to stray from desired operation. If your car were a front wheel drive it is a more intense/involved repair. I doubt you need another torque converter at all.

Do you have warranty recourse on the transmission? It would cover the TCC Solenoid.

The IAC is probably not a problem here as it is folling computer commands to prevent an engine stall, just as it does when you use power steering at low rpm's and when A/C is switched on or off at low rpm's. The IAC is on the air intake path, is bolted or screwed down and has one electrical connector to it. When removed, it appears to have a conical shaped valve that the electric motor actuates to compensate for load changes on the engine. I'd leave it alone unless you are getting a check engine light code concerning IAC.

Roger

I would need to have a technician look at it, as I do not have a lift or the tools to do so.
One other thing is that when I put the car in neutral and after it rev's up than down, I can put it back into drive and it does not stall. That seems a little different than what you said in your earlier response. Does that change what you think could be be the problem?

No Sir, I believe the TCC wants to release but the valve the solenoid controls is sticking, or, the solenoid is slow to de-energize and dump the apply pressure and therefore release the TCC clutch. Slowed release of the TCC clutch puts a load on the engine and the IAC will try to compensate accordingly. My suggestion is not the answer chiseled in stone but rather the most common cause of the symptom you have described. Remember, you are not having this happen at slower traffic speeds. The TCC won't apply 'til about 48mph if you are in 3rd or 4th gear and coolant temperature is above around 130 degrees F.

Your turn,

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Pontiac Firebird Drive Train / Driveline Vibration Happens always Always

2.8 with manual tran. the motor thru a rod. have a replacement 2.8 that had an automatic trans form an 86 firebird. Installed the piolet bearing Bought a new flywheel installed the flywheel tourqed to 74 ft lbs. Started the motor and noticed a vibration. Took off the new flywheel and put on the auto flywheel and there was very if any vibration present. Took off the flywheel an dial indicated the crank on the bolt face less than 4 thousands. Reinstalled the manual flywheel and dial indicated while using the starter to turn engine and had 10+ thousands startes the engine and had 20+ thousands. Found a service bulletin that talks about flywheel weights and reinstalling the weights as per the old flywheel. If that is true going from an auto to a manuel flyheel on two different engins how would one even begin to put the weights where they belong. Ant thoughts? Have another situation that is coming up on in the near future. We have aquired an 4.3 natural asperated 4bbl to hop up the 2.8 is fuel injected any sujestions on what we should do for the fuel delivery to the carb? Thanks Phillip

Hi:
Might want to try moving the pressure plate assembly around . Sometimes this will dampen the vibration and also might want to consider balancing the flywheel by itself. As long as I've been in this field, I have heard about it but have not had to do it.20+. As far as the fuel delivery for the 4.3l motor . there is two ways of going about it. You can use the electric fuel pump and run an external fuel pressure regulator or you can remove the pump at the tank and bypass it. Good luck Les.

Is it wrong for me to assume that a new flywheel comes unbalanced? We also had the old flywheel refaced and the vibrations are just as bad now as with the old flywheel..It would seem odd that we have two flywheels one new and one refaced come in as unbalanced. would there be anything else that we may be missing?

Hi:
Like I stated before check the pressure plate for unbalance. Seems that a new flywheel would come balanced. Resurfacing the old one just gives the clutch a new surface to sit on but thay do not check it for balance unless you specify. Also might want to check your harmonic balancer, sometimes the rubber wears out and it will slip around causing it to be out of balance. Les

Les
Because the way the starter is mounted we were able to start the motor without the pressure plate and disk and the vibration was present. I understand what you are saying however we have had the pressure plate on and off many times am sure it never went back on in the same location also this is the same pressure plate that came off the old motor and there was no vibrations with that engine. This is a real stumper the new flywheel has drill holes of different depths along the outer edge that indicates that it has been balanced. We felt that because the drive train was not assembled and only the two motor mounts in the front was not enough to hold the engine steady we decided to put everything together after assembling the entire drive train the vibrations are still present. I was wondering if that engine was balanced as a complete engine kind of like a tire and rim. Also we have replaced the hormic balancer still have the vibrations Phillip

Hi:
Since I'm not there to tell exactly were the vibration is coming from I can only give you hints as to what I think It is. A few Questions. Does it do it with the clutck in or out? Does it quit when you put it in gear or gets worse? Have you made sure the exhaust is not hitting anywhere on the underneath? I'm on my way to work but as soon as I get home tonight I will check my e-mail to see your response. Sorry about the delay, but I'll stick with you until we can figure it out. Les

1989 Pontiac Firebird Fuel System   

I have an 89 firebird formula 5.7.. the car has been getting gas in the oil.. I've replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, 02 sensor, mass air flow, coolent temp sensor, replaced the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator, trying putting after market accel 21 lb/hr fuel injectors... Also the car had a valve job within the last 6,000 miles... The problem with the gas just started within the last few hundred miles, you can change the oil and with 100 miles you can see the level on the dip stick has gone up and you can smell gas... I hooked up a gauge to the fuel rails and it doesn't hold pressure for more then 10-15 seconds... Any help on this matter would be great, for this car is putting me in the poor house...

Thank you

Joe

hello sir
the answer to your question is the intake manifold or lower throttle body gasket
there is port not sealed correctly allowing fuel to drop down to the belly pan
an intake gasket kit will take care of that
more likely stated when the valve job was done
hope this helps

1989 Pontiac Firebird Engine Chugging Happens always Always

Hello,

No engine problems ever, very good condition, 305, 5 spd., throttle body injection, all of a sudden while driving one day, died. Put in neutral and restarted as I was coasting. After restarting, I had chugged & lurched & died, 15 miles home. Not as bad or noticeable once I got up past 3rd gear, but still lurched & chugged.

All my readings pointed to lean fuel mixture, TPS, ECM. Completed full tune up, fuel filter, O2 sensor, pretty much all of the emissions stuff changed out. Seemed like it may have been TPS, I switched this out w/2 or 3 different new ones, (in case I purchased a dud), to no avail. The last one I switched out, one of the little screws broke off, now I need to tap it out (UGH!). At any rate, any guess as to what the issue is? Thanks for any help, Laurie.

Did you check for trouble codes?

Have you checked fuel pressure with a gauge?

If the engine died instantly this would, more than likely, be electrical (distributor/components)or mechanical failure.

Does the engine still die, or simply surge? If the problem is more of a surging (which may cause a stall) be sure sure to check for vacuum leaks (especially the throttle body gasket).

Is the problem the same with a hot and cold engine?

Yep, the trouble codes all referred to lean fuel mixture, TPS, ECM. I don't have the codes available right now, as I'm at work, but can provide those later today.

I have not been able to check fuel pressure, but fuel pump was a guess, but last resort, due to it's in the tank! A vaccuum leak was another idea. Due to I'm a "do it yourself gal", I know a little about a lot, but when it comes to major tech stuff, I'm somewhat lacking in knowledge & tools!

This problem happens cold or warm. It's really hard to start, but I'm crafty, and with some work, I am able to get it started & running. Once I manage to get it started, I have to play w/the accelerator to keep it running. My tach goes up & down, surging. It will go up to like almost 3, and when it comes back down, it wants to die, so I have to rev the engine to keep it running. It does this consistently, up & down, up & down.

Even after I get it in gear, same thing. A couple of friends weren't even able to get or keep it running to get it in gear & driving. I can, though :)

Thanks!

I want you to look down the throttle body to see if you find the throttle body gasket has sucked in.

Use the following link as a guide- Copy and Paste into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

If you cannot get the link to work, leave your email address and I'll send a link you can click on.

After you check the throttle body gasket, I want you to check the EGR valve to see if it's stuck open. The most accurate way to do this is by disconnecting and (temporarily) plugging the passageway. It sure seems you have a major vacuum leak (causing a lean mixture and making the engine struggle to maintain an idle).

There are more possibilities, let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try this. The vehicle is out on our farm, being stored for winter, and I'll be going out there this weekend. I will let you know what happens w/this.

Thanks for the link, as well. I do have my own service manual already for the vehicle.

I'll get back to you on my results Monday!

Thank you so much for your help, it's really appreciated!

Laurie

Your welcome.

The results?

Hello,

I am not very familiar with TB injection, and it seemed I'd have to take it apart to determine if the gasket is the issue. I think you're on the right page, with thinking it's vaccuum isssue. A friend of mine this past weekend stated he has a vaccuum pressure tester, so in the next couple of weeks, I'm going to get him over to test & take apart the TB, and help me w/testing the EGR.

I'll keep you updated!

Thanks~

Laurie

Find out what kink of vacuum tester he has- a vacuum gauge is of no use. A vacuum pump could work, but is difficult to prepare for.

1989 Pontiac Firebird Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

The car will start only when the weather is warm (over 15' Celcius). It will run great for a bit then crash out and sputter and crapout. There is only intermittent spark coming from the coil. We've replaced the coil, cap and rotor with no success. When you do get it started you can drive for a while then take your foot off the gas and it will stall. The engine pressure gauge just jumps all over the place when you press the gas and then hit the brakes. Weve checked for trouble codes with no success. Getting so frustrated with this problem! Any ideas?

The intermitant spark tells me that you are losing power somewhere between the coil and the ECM.If no codes have been retrieved,we're kind of shooting into thin air here but I need a litte more information to try and help out.There are several factors that come to mind but I dont want to take you on a wild goose chase.Is the vehicle equiped with fuel injection or normally asperated?Have you checked all vaccum lines,air filter,fuel filter etc. for clogging or damage?The fact that you say when the vehicle does run,when you take your foot of the accelertor and it dies,an air/fuel question comes to mind.If you can give me a little more input,I'll try my best to help you through.
Good Luck,
Paul

thanks for your reply.
It is multi port fuel injection. When it runs it seems to run great for the husband but not me? Could be driver error on that one LOL! The intermittent spark thing is what is driving us the most nuts. We have done the air filter, checked all vacuum lines. The fuel filter is being replaced as soon as we can get the car started and back home again. The ECM itself was changed last year. the coil was changed 2 weeks ago, along with the cap and rotor. Plugs adn wires were done last year. Im thinking a MAP sensor or MAT sensor? There are no stored codes. anything else that you need to know?

Although there are no codes present,and you say the ECM has been changed,was it reset by chance when some of the other problems occured?Much like the hard drive on your home computer,older codes can sometimes be retrieved to try and help the process of elimination.The flow charts for any codes have to followed "all the way through".Yes a MAP or MAT could fall into play but they would most likely sending a code out now.By following the charts you will find what makes these beasts work.I've found more than once that a component or harness at the bottom of the totem pole is at fault.As for the fuel filter,make sure to add a good injector cleaning additive to see if it helps.The injectors themselves may be causing what sounds like a little fuel starvation.
Good Luck,
Paul

We will try and see if there are codes present now. It is very possible we erased codes from before with all the fiddling around we were doing trying to figure out what was wrong. We have a code reader here, so hopefully the car will start and make it home so we can fiddle around some more.
The intermittent spark is so troubling though. I can sort of see where the electricity flow starts at the battery to the starter from the starter to ???? from there to the ECM and from the ECM to the coil right? LOL.
We put fuel injector cleaner in it with the last fuel purchase thinking it could be the problem as well, but I really think its someting to do with the flow of electricty to the ecm adn coil?

The injector cleaner was just advised as it sounds your having more than an electrical problem.No it wont cause the eletrical but it factors in on air/fuel flow.If you get a chance to recheck codes and are still scratching your head,let me know and we'll scratch together.
Good Luck,
Paul

1989 Pontiac Firebird Engine Malfunction When idling Always

On a 1989 305 TPI 5-speed:
Symptoms: Poor fuel economy, poor power, high Hydro Carbons at Idle during emission test (214 ppm).
Anomalyous behavior: While driving, if I push in the clutch and let off the gas, the RPMs drop to the 1200 to 1000 range. When I come to a complete stop (in neutral), the RPMs drop to the 800 to 700 range. Originally, when I idled at neutral, the RPMs would immediately drop to 600rpm, regardless of whether I was moving or sitting still.
No trouble codes displayed.
Attempted fixes: New plugs, wires, injectors, O2 sensor, ECM, distributor cap, cats. Corrected timing.
Any suggestions? Thanks.

Check the map sensor, throttle position sensor, and egr valve.

EGR valve has been replaced twice, actually. Will double check the vacuum line.
TPS has also been replaced twice.
The strange idle behavior did start soon after replacing the EGR and TPS originally (though about 2 thousand miles after). I put both original parts back on, but that _did not_ restore it to normal behavior.
Idle Air Control valve has also been replaced.
Is a MAP the same as a MAF? Is there an easy way to test it?
Also, any suggestions for opening a stuck hood? I think the cable disconnected from the latch.
Thanks.

Cars typically have a MAP or MAF (there are exceptions that have both, which is becoming more common on new cars). Check the MAF. The best way is with a scanner.

If there was no change after the egr valve replacement I think it is safe to rule out egr concerns. What sometimes happens is a small piece of carbon will lodge and hold the egr valve slightly open.

Use the following link to access a repair guide that'll offer test procedures for sensors that don't involve expensive diagnostic equipment. Also check to see if the TPS is supposed to be adjusted when installed. Some chain auto parts stores will test sensors off the car. You could call Autozone, Advance, etc and see if they can test the MAF.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1989 Pontiac Firebird Brake System Sticking When braking Always

Drivers side front brake sticking. Already replaced rotors, pads, caliper, and bearings.

Assuming the problem is not with the caliper (slides/bolts/etc) the problem is most likely a bad hose to the drivers wheel. What happens is the hose colapses internally and acts as a one way valve- allowing fluid by to apply the brake but not return.

1989 Pontiac Firebird Engine Stalling When driving Always

With a '96 8 cyl 5.7L Vette engine that stalls out after about 7 minutes of running from cold and does not restart for about 5 hours. Then repeats the cycle of running for about 7 minutes and the stalling out.

Hello, Have you considered the "sock" fuel filter in the fuel tank may be collapsing and restricting fuel flow?

When the engine stalls the fuel pump suction stops and the filter expands toward it's original shape. Then the cycle repeats.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

How are you doing on this one please?

Roger

I am going to try it out will get back to you

Thanks, I'll hope for a sucessful effort.

Roger

1989 Pontiac Firebird Heating / Cooling System   

my heater bypass valve keeps blowing up. i cant seem to figure out why; ive replaced the thermostat and the water pump is brand new. the hose that connects to the lower joint on the valve just starts leaking until eventually the valve itself cracks open. any thoughts??

If I were there, I would have the coolant tested for excessive hydrocarbons, or to put it plainly, I would suspect a small leak in the head gasket (a common problem)
A simple way to check for head gasket problem, is to run the car cold with rad cap off.Watching the coolant flow, inspect for minute bubbles. You will see when the thermostat opens, as the flow will increase. At that time, either shut off the car or reinstall the cap.
A more accurate test would involve an emission tester, wand that they use to test for excessive hydrocarbons at the tailpipe.
Instead of the tailpipe, I place mine in the rad cap opening, to check for hydrocarbons, where there should be none.
I also hope you are buying decent quality valves (IE GM)

1989 Pontiac Firebird Engine   

Idles high around 2000 RPM's when in park, and when shifted into gear drops to around 1500 RPM's. Also when gas pedal is depressed quickly it bogs down and hesitates for a second and then revs up. Put in a new Air advance which helped greatly with it cutting off during start-up, thinking possible vacuum leak?

Hi, What engine please? Carb, or fuel injection?

I wouldn't blame 2000 rpm on a vacuum leak. How does it run with the throttle, cruise and transmission cables disconnected?

Roger

V6 - Fuel Injection.
Disconnected the cruise, throttle, and transmission cables. Started her up and feathered the gas pedal and it bogs down and chokes out but doesn't cut it off.

Does this tell you that one of the cables is holding the throttle open enough to cause a high idle speed? I'm wanting to get the idle speed resolved first.

Roger

Without the tranmission and throttle cable attached we find that when the thottle is at idle and you pull on it, it sticks a bit before it lets go. Could that be a problem?

Yes, Use Carb/choke cleaner to clean the throttle bore and butterfly valve. You'll need good ventilation as the fumes are heavy while working and cause eye irritation when you restart the engine.

With the engine and the key off I prop the throttle wide open so I can see where to spray chemical. I use an acid core brush to wash the deposits away and follow with a rag to get the junk out. A good flashlight or a cool temperature trouble light will help you see the build up of gummy fuel deposits.

Get the butterfly valve clean and the bore clean where the two come in contact when the throttle comes closed. Once you no longer feel the throttle sticking when moved by hand - clear the area and start the engine. It will stumble and act terrible until the chemical has burned off, then smooth out. Expect some very heavy fumes that can be too much for children and no fun for you either.

Don't worry about what you see but can't reach beyond the throttle valve when cleaning. Freedom of movement of the throttle off idle (closed) is the goal.

Roger

I'll go by the store tomorrow and pick up some cleaner, gloves, and facemask and see if it free's up the throttle and possibly helps with the high RPM.

That is a good start. I'll look for your report to see what next to suggest.

Thanks,

Roger

Sorry for taking a few days but we've made some progress. When we inspected the butterfly valve we found that it was catching on the inside a bit so we took some sandpaper and smoothed it out and afterwards sprayed carb cleaner as you suggested. I had also heard that if the battery is disconnected the car has to relearn how to idle and seeing as the battery was without charge for sometime I took her for a small drive. Started her up and the idle is at 850 in park. The only thing that I can find wrong with her now is that there's a slight hesitation (of about 1.5 seconds I believe) when the gas is depressed quickly?

Consider checking the timing.

Do you have this hesitation when driving as well as when setting still if you punch the throttle for passing gear?

Roger

It only hesitates when it's sitting still.

And if you are stopped and need to cross traffic quickly will the car accelerate and get accross four lanes of cross traffic safely, or hesitate and cause concern of a possible accident? I'm talking about a common sense traffic procedure, not a dare devil action....

Roger

I'm certain it would make it across four lanes of traffic quick enough. But just to be safe, do you know what could be done to reduce the hesitation?

I'm not comfortable suggesting you should pursue this further.

I'd need the results of a compression test and a cylinder leakdown test along with fuel pressure readings. All of the air inlet hose clamps need to be tight, the air and fuel filters recent replacements.

I'd be checking the timing and adjusting as needed.....this is an easy task.

Yet after all this effort at retail prices I couldn't promise real noticable results to you. The car being an '89 model V6 there is a small chance a change in computer or the prom inside it could address this to some degree. I can't recommend this as I am an honest man.

The car accelerates well in traffic. I'd drive it.

Roger

I'd like to thank you greatly for helping with everything. As this is my first car i'm sure it'll bring years of enjoyment.

I'm glad to help you and I thank you for the chance.

Ready to close the question? Please click on OK to finish up.

Enjoy your car,

Roger

1989 Pontiac Firebird Engine   

1989 Formula Firebird starts but runs rough and dies within seconds. If you give it gas it backfires through the throttle body. I don't know much about this engine so please be specific with your answer. I don't know where to start and would appreciate any help. Car has been started about once a month for the last couple of years.

Could be bad gas...draining gas and adding fresh gas might help. Adding injector cleaner might help.Since it does not appear the car runs often, you might consider adding 'fuel stabilizer'to the gas tank.
Also consider getting the car scanned for codes as a sensor might be malfunctioning.

1988 Pontiac Firebird Engine Tuning When accelerating When warm 

My 1988 Pontiac Firebird 2.8L auto has the following symptoms:

(i) Engine quite lacking in power under even under a fairly light load
plus
(ii) Fuel consumption is excessive (about 16 mpg)

The lack of power seems to get worse when the engine is warm.

The car starts easily enough every time and runs reliably although the engine does miss slightly on idle (especially when warm).

Engine responds to throttle willingly when in neutral.

SES lamp is off, no problem there. The sparking plugs are in good condition, correctly gapped.

Any ideas what is likely to cause this collection of symptoms?

Hello, Have you checked the ignition timing?

If you have a stopped-up or restricted catalytic converter it will greatly reduce power.

Does the transmission start off in the correct gear from a stop?

Are vacuum hoses in good condition and tightly connected so there are no vacuum leaks?

Fuel filter unrestricted?

Please advise,

Roger

Thanks - some great thoughts here already. The answers are as follows:

Ignition timing - not checked by myself although the car was professionally tuned (I was told) shortly before I purchased it. I ought to check it.

Catalytic converter - this was removed by the previous owner and it now has a 'straight through' exhaust system fitted.

Correct gear selection - the selection and changes do feel correct or so I thought. I will pay some more attention to this tonight and make sure.

Vacuum hoses - they look in good condition but I think I need to check them over more closely.

Fuel filter - I have not examined this but I had assumed that excessive fuel consumption implied that the fuel was flowing pretty easily.

The fuel filter should have been a part of the professional tune up you were assured was done before you bought the car. I mention it anyway because if the car lacks power the accelerator is pressed further down just to run the car and that will waste fuel.

Please advise what you are finding concerning the correct gear for start up from a stop.

Roger

I drove the car 30 miles tonight and I am sure the gear selection from stop is O.K.

The auto box seems to keep the rpm somewhere around 2000 most of the time but it rises to 3000 rpm or so when I am moving away from rest. Pulling away from rest is fine but I notice rather poor accceleration between 20 mph and 30 mph.

I am located in England, U.K., so the car is fairly rare here with few to make comparisons with.

My real concern at the moment is to improve the fuel consumption - I feel the 2.8L V6 engine should be capable of doing at least 20 mpg?

best regards
Laurence Richardson

I'll look in the Mitchell 1 Data Base for some suggestions today and get back to you.

When you check the timing, watch and see how stable it appears to stay on the mark.

Roger

Hang in there please. My wife's car shot the push rod right through the #4 exhaust valve rocker arm. I had to drop everything and go get her car and fix it. Today, I didn't get to the data base for more help for you, tomorrow should be a better day.

Sorry for the delay,

Roger

Here is what I found in the Mitchell 1 Data Base OnDemand5 Auto Repair Library. I will need to know the 8th digit of your car's VIN# to quote the correct fuel pressure reading when testing your particular car.
What is your geographic altitude?

Roger



LACK OF POWER, SLUGGISH, OR SPONGY

Engine delivers less than expected power. Little or no increase in speed when accelerator pedal is depressed part way.

Possible Cause & Correction

Compare vehicle to another vehicle of similar design. Ensure vehicle has actual problem. Remove air cleaner and replace filter if dirty or plugged. Check the following if problem still exists:

Ignition timing.

Restricted fuel filter, contaminated fuel, or improper fuel pressure.

ECM Grounds.

EGR operation to ensure EGR valve is not open (or part open) all the time.

Alternator output. Repair if less than 9 volts or more than 16 volts.

Valve timing. Perform compression test.

Proper or worn camshaft.

Exhaust system for restriction:
1. With engine at normal operating temperature, connect vacuum guage to convenient intake manifold vacuum port.
2. Disconnect EGR solenoid electrical connector, or connect EGR valve directly to vacuum source (by-passing switches and/or solenoids).
3. Run engine at 1000 RPM and record vacuum reading.
4. Slowly increase speed to 1500 RPM and note vacuum reading at steady 2500 RPM.
5. If vacuum at 2500 RPM decreases more than 3 in. Hg from reading at 1000 RPM, inspect exhaust system for restrictions.
6. Disconnect exhaust pipe from engine and repeat previous 2 steps. If vacuum still drops more than 3 in. Hg with exhaust disconnected, check valve timing.


POOR FUEL ECONOMY

As determined by actual road test, fuel economy is significantly lower than expected. Also, fuel economy is much lower than had been previously shown by an earlier road test.

Possible Cause & Correction

Check thermostat for proper heat range or improper operation (always open).

Check fuel pressure.

Check ignition timing.

Check Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) for proper operation.

Check non-CCC related items such as tire pressure, clogged air cleaner, engine compression, owner's driving habits, etc.

Perform SYSTEM CHECK.

Thanks. The full VIN# is

1G2FS21S4JL236350

Best regards
Laurence Richardson

Sorry, I forgot to add that my altitude is sea level (I live in the Fens area of England which is mostly reclaimed land at or slightly below sea level).

I have resolved to start by inspecting the air filter during this weekend.

1988 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups Overheating When driving Always

I replaced the Radiator, Water Pump, and thermostat and my 1988 Trans Am GTA 5.7 Still Over Heats when driving long distance in hot weather and also when the airconditioner is on. Also be advised both fans are working. from: Sgtsv@aol.com

you might want to look at your lower intake gasket.... these GM engines are notorious for leaking here.(ever since GM changed the intake bolt pattern in 86). Check at the left rear of intake or left front , those are the weak spots. If I can be of further assistance you can Email me at [redacted] upon accepting this response. Good Luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1988 Pontiac Firebird Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the Wiring harness dropped against the exhaust manifold melting the plastic. The wiring appears ok NO wires where exposed. The car is running in the "Default" limp home mode. No check engine light. How do you reset this limp home mode or determine the issue causing it to stay in this mode. thank you Jim

Hello, Have you examined the wiring to be sure no wires insulation has melted to another? Does your check engine light stay on when the key is on and the engine is stopped?

Turn the key off. Disconnect the car battery for 10 - 30 minutes. Reconnect the battery and warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

The computer should go into "closed loop" operation and resume normal mode of operation.

What happens?

Roger

Taking battery cable off for 30 minutes does not resolve the issue. Yes the check engine light is on when key is on but engine not running. Check engine light is not on when car is running. the area that came in contact with the header did not have any wires with the insulation melted through. Only the plastic molding was damaged.

Are you certain you are in limp home mode?

Chilton Auto Repair Data Base states:

"In the event of an ECM failure, the system will default to a pre-programmed set of values. These are compromise values which allow the engine to operate, although possibly at reduced efficiency. This is variously known as the default, limp-in/limp-home or backup mode. Driveability is almost always affected when the ECM enters this mode."

Continuing:

"Anytime the battery is disconnected the block learn values are lost and must be relearned by the ECM. This loss of corrected values may be noticed as a significant change in driveability. To re-teach the system, make certain the engine is fully warmed up. Drive the vehicle at part throttle using moderate acceleration and idle until normal performance is felt."

If your car won't respond to this procedure the ECM could be defective.

Roger

I had a similar problem years ago when the car ran just like this, I had no check engine light, the garage replaced "one of the sensors". The idle is ok but to rev the engine it is rough. We have tried removing one plug wire at a time to see if maybe a bad plug or wire. It runs much rougher when any one plug is off. You can drive it but it feels like half power. going up a hill you slow way down. I will try what you suggest this weekend to see if it can relearn.

Well hey, are we overlooking the engine cannot breathe due to a restricted exhaust?

Roger

1986 Pontiac Firebird Fuel System   

My 1986 5.0 TPI engine, Pontiac Trans am has the digital dash. Everything is working but the fuel guage I filled it but it only has the bottom 3 lights lit all the time when on? Do I have to replace the fuel sending unit?

Hello,The tank sending unit is likely the problem.

When the fuel level gets down to what the gauge is showing now does the gauge become accurate down through the range to empty?

Roger

No, I realized today that the bottom 3 lines that I thought were lit, are just orange in color the rest of the guage is green. No light is working at all on the fuel guage. Every other guage is working just fine. I just bought this car from the original owner, He had it in storage for 2 years with only 28,000 original miles. He kept the tank full with stabil additive.

thanks,
Mike

I'd be inclined to see if unplugging the fuel tank unit will cause the gauge display to change. Perhaps it will default to FULL if the gauge is good.

If no effect is shown with the above test It will probably call for removing the instrument cluster for a look at the printed circuit board and the connections to it.

I'll see if I can find any other test to try before recommending sending the cluster for repair.

Roger

Thank You Roger, When You say "unplug the fuel unit" do you mean the wire from the sending unit by the tank? Thanks,
Mike

Yes, that is what I have in mind.

Roger

1985 Pontiac Firebird All Part Groups Malfunction When idling Always

I have two problems.
First my rpms are of the chart, I can be going 20mph on second gear and the rpms are at 7000 or more, and the engine is working its not being pushed to the limit I can even get 30 to 40 mph still in second gear before having to change into third. And when neutral the rpms can vary from 1500 to 3000 by themselves and the engine responds, if the rpms are high the engine accelarates by itself if they are low its calm.

The second is that I just recently installed an air conditioner in the car, this car did not have an air conditioning system, and everytime I stop at a red light or make a sudden turn it turns off.

This is a problem with the pick up for the tachometer, or the instrument itself.

Find a shop that specializes in odometers and have the 'tach' checked out.

On your second question, did you boost your idle rpm's?

With an A/C unit installed, the idle rpm's need to be higher. You now have the load of a compressor on the engine. This extra load is causing the problem.

You DID change the radiator, didn't you? If not, do so.

With the A/C unit the cooling ability of the radiator is lower.

Too much heat will also cause you problems.

Can I buy a Universal Tachometer from Pepboys and install it?

They installed a small secondary radiator for the air conditioner.

Yes, you can install such a device. All it will do however, is show the engine speed. Any diagnostic device for engine speed will do the same thing. If the driving device for the tachometer is bad, all the tachs in the world will not fix the problem. Get the driving source for the tachometer checked first. If this device is defective, then the existing device should work properly after the device that drives it is fixed. This driving device is located in the transmission. Follow the cables from the tachometer down to where it connects to the transmission. There might be an interconnecting box along the way. If so, be sure it is operating properly as well. IF there is an interconnecting box, AND it is working as it should, continue on to the transmission. Where the cable connects is where the driving device for the tachometer will be found. There might be 2 such drivers. One is for the speedometer/odometer. The other one for the tach. It is possible that the tachometer driver uses a magnetic pickup device. If so, replace it. They can be broken, or lose their magnetism. If the device is broken, and you replace it, make sure the new device does not extend to far in, or it could get broken as well. These issues are similar to what you will encounter if you install a new add on tachometer.

1985 Pontiac Firebird Engine Making Noise When driving 

I have not purchased this car yet, but am looking to for my son. It is a 1985 Pontiac Firebird. The ad said the car runs but needs motor work. I called the dealer and he said that it needs connecting rod bearings. I would like to know a little more about this repair. Will it be an expensive repair? Will other things more than likely need to be replaced during the repair for the car to run smoothly? Any help you can give me will be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

5-9-03.
Hello, Rod bearings are an easy fix if you get in there in time. $300-$400 or so. Wait too long and the rods get beat out of original shape ( new bearings won't fix this )and the crankshaft can be damaged as well.

Any dealer who hasn't fixed this condition knows how things can domino once the inspection begins. He should want to improve the marketability of the car!

Are you going to be compensated for your risk if you buy? Then go for it. Not a gambler? (worst case... a rebuilt engine)RUN!!!

Roger

5-12-03.
Hello?, Please let me hear from you.
Thanks,

Roger

In your response, you said "Wait too long and the rods get beat out of original shape (new bearings won't fix this) and the crankshaft can be damaged as well". I plan on going to look at this car on Friday. How can I tell? Or can't I? The dealer told me that he is not allowing anyone to test drive the car, as you said, it could only make things worse. Also - you said "Are you going to be compensated for your risk if you buy"? Please tell me what you meant by that? Again, thank you very much for your time.

5-12-03.
You cannot tell if the rods are beat out of original shape without opening the crankcase by oil pan removal and performing an inspection using plastigage ( a stringlike material that is placed on top of the existing rod bearing) to see how much wear has occured. The rod cap is first removed, the plastigage put on the bearing, the rod cap is then reinstalled and torqued to factory specs. Once again the cap is removed so the plastigage wideth can be checked to see how far it was compressed from torque. This tells the technicion if a bearing needs to be thicker/thinner to repair the knock. Same proceedure for a crankshaft.

You're being compensated for the risk if you buy the car when the price is in your favor so you can still afford to fix the worst case findings.

Should things get ugly and you need a replacement engine, ( new, used, rebuilt), would the car be worth all you will spend? It's your money, you may find things to go very well with this car. Or, it could leave you wishing you had found another car because things got worse than you chose to afford.

Roger

1979 Pontiac Firebird Fuel System Stalling When driving When warm 

I have changed the regulator and the fuel pump and fuel tank and it still stalls when warm and won't restart fuel regulator goes to zero it seems to be starving for fuel

what size engine and what injection system

403 with a 650 edelbrock carb I bought it a few weeks ago do i really need the fuel regulator or can I bypass it

are you using the electrical fuel pump or manual fuel pump

mechanical

then you dont need a regulator have you checked the filter in the carb for trash

I changed the fuel pump to electric and it seems to be working good now

ok

1979 Pontiac Firebird Electrical / Lighting Systems   

For a 1979 403 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, is the correct battery (original) a sidemount or a top mount? My car currently has a top mount but I'm not sure if this is correct.

Replacement batteries for your vehicle show up as sidemount only, apparently someone switched yours at some point.

1969 Pontiac Firebird Ignition System Vibration When idling When warm 

the engine shakes alot but still sounds good its a 400 refitted with a more modern hei from a mystery donor. which way are the coil wires supposed to be facing and is the 7 and 2 on either side of the coil or on just opposite side? right now coil wires are on the passenger side and the vaccum advance is on the driver. my 7 and 2 are opposite the protruding coil side housing the wires

Let me know your email address, I'll send diagram

[redacted]

if you could give me an update i would appreciate it
i know its a pretty confusing question. i'm still working on it. i have it sitting on top dead center right now or at least close to. unfortunately i didn,t feel to much compression out of the spark plug hole as the piston came up keeping my finger crossed its a worthy classic in need of full restoration [redacted]

Low compression not a good thing...have you done a comp test?I will send the diagram today.
Bruce

Thanks

Let me know how it goes.

It LIVES still shakes but sounds a little better. the great thing about classics is that you can't worry too much about every little thing because there will always be something trickier around the corner

Ok. I still do not like the shaking part,
Some other things you can check are the plugs, wires, and cap and rotor condition.
A common problem on HEI dist is the vac advance. Easy to check, a pce of vacuum hose and a bit of suction. The advance should move smoothly, with no leaks. If it leaks or does not move, replace it (two screws)
Have fun, with your 69 'bird. If you want to exchange info, my email addy is [redacted] . In my collection is an ex show car very optioned, 69 Judge
Bruce