Pontiac Trans Sport

1996 Pontiac Trans Sport Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

Hi, I have a 1996 Pontiac Trans Sport 2.3L 16v. Sometimes during driving the engine just dies for a few seconds, and if i push the gas it just dies off quicker. Also the engine "jumps"/vibrates hard when dropping below 2000 rpm's on 4th and 5th gear. What could cause this to happend ??

This problem could be caused by a faulty Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)/Trans Output Speed Sensor (TOSS). or

Vacuum Modulator or

A bad PCM (Power control Module) or
A bad or dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor or

a combination of problems.

Have a diagnostic test done on the vehicle to determine the trouble codes.

1995 Pontiac Trans Sport Windows / Glass Malfunction Happens sometimes 

Heres whats happenening, Wipers don't seen to work when they are wet. Sometimes this occurs even if water is not involved. If you get out and move them sometimes they will start to work

5-3-03.
Hello, I'll need some info to get up to speed here.

Do you have delay wipers, or, rain sense detection feature options?

When the condition is present, using only the wiper control switch, do the wipers start in any setting/speed? For example, if turned straight to the 'high' speed will the wipers start and run at high speed, but won't come on if first you tried the 'low' speed?

And when they do work, are all speeds/features operable and normal?

Roger

They work in all the different modes when I can get them to work. It seems that when they get wet either from washing or from the rain they do not seem to work.When they do not work it does not matter what position the switch is in they will not come on.I'm not sureto replace the wiper motor or if the problem is electrical, but when they will not come on if you get out and help move them this jump starts them to begin(but even this does not always work) Thanks Jim

5-4-03.

Hello Jim, you have just described the conditions under which I most frequently replace the wiper motor. When it works, it works! But when it won't work, it can be a bear to get started.

What I believe is happening here is at the last instant of motor rotation (as the wipers 'park') the blades come to rest on a molding or plastic block and for a moment there is an additional 'load' on the wiper motor before the Park Switch cuts off the power to the motor. Over time the armature in the motor can get in a bind, or, 'cock' which results in the brushes for the motor armature failing to make proper contact when needed for restart.

Since you have proper control when your system operates, I vote for a motor.

Roger

5-7-03.
Jim, Any results with these wipers yet?

Thanks,

Roger

1995 Pontiac Trans Sport Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

Had water pump freeze up,and broke serpentine belt, replaced all parts and won't start now. replaced also sensor for timing, etc. (alignment)

Does the engine crank but not fire?

If so, does the check engine light come on when you first turn the key on (as it normally does)?

If it does check for spark using a spark tester.

If you have spark does the fuel pump run?

If yes, check for fuel injector pulse using a noid light.

Also check for diagnostic trouble codes. YOu may need a scantool, have to look at the ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link) to determine.

engine light comes on when key turned.. "NO spark", also the part that was replaced was crankshaft position sensor, which was broken when the serpentine belt broke.

Check the crank sensor connector and wires to see if they have been damaged. Very possible if the sensor was hit hard enough to break. Verify proper sensor signal available to the PCM (computer).

Here is a free online repair guide that will be helpful in the troubleshooting process.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

1995 Pontiac Trans Sport Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens sometimes 

Hello I have just bought a Pontiac Transport here in France. The nearest dealer is about 250 miles from my home town. There are a number of faults with the car but the most important is that after the car has not beeb started for several days, the battery is sometimes completely discharged. Can you tell me if there is a known fault in the electris of the car?

Hello, No there is not a "known fault" and diagnosis will be necessary to pin point excessive parasitic drain on the battery.

Parasitic drain is the power needed for "KEEP ALIVE" memory of radio presets, clock, and computer needs during times of non-use of the vehicle. An acceptable parasitic drain won't exceed 35-40 miliamps or the vehicle battery will not have enough reserve to sustain the ability to start the engine after a long delay.

Do you have access to an Ampmeter with a miliamp scale on it? You'll need a decent meter to ensure believable results.

The ampmeter is connected in series between the disconnected negative battery cable and the battery. Monitor the miliamp drain for at least an hour so that computers can power down to stand-by or sleep mode.

If the monitored reading exceeds the above specs, pull fuses from the fuse box (one at a time) until the drain falls into the spec range or is eliminated. Components powered by the last fuse you pulled are suspect for having a short. Re-insert the fuse you last pulled. Disconnect the components on that fused circuit until you discover the device having the problem. Repair/replace as necessary and retest for total parasitic drain amount again.

Questions?,

Roger

In addition to my previous message, two other thoughts come to mind that are worth mentioning.

One is the state of charge of a maintenance free battery.

If your battery has gone dead it needs a full recharge to ensure reliability. Jump starting and allowing the alternator to charge the battery gives a false sense of security as the vehicle will often start right back up if shut off and retried. The truth is the battery obtains only a surface charge from this method and a surface charge can self disapate and cause an inconvenience of a NO START condition when you least expect it.

Put simply, there is a threshold past which an alternator alone cannot charge the battery due to power being tapped to run the vehicle and any accessories in use. A battery charger is the best tool to bring a discharged battery to a point the alternator can maintain.

The second thought is that equipment of any kind added after market should be disconnected before a decision is made as to the pass/fail amount of parasitic drain found on the battery during testing.

The higher the measured parasitic drain above 35 miliamps, the more frequent the vehicle will have to be driven the distance for the alternator to keep the battery up.

Should miliamp drain exceed 50 miliamps you will want to take action to reduce the drain or carry jump start equipment at all times as the battery will fail without warning.

Roger

Are my messages getting to you?

Roger

I need to hear from you as to the status of this question, please.

Still want help?

Roger

1995 Pontiac Trans Sport Windows / Glass Malfunction Happens always Always

I have a 1995 Pontiac Transport 3.8 V6.
The drivers door electric window does not close properly. When the switch to close the window is pressed the window goes up by about 0.5 inches then stops. After waiting 15 minutes, the window will go up another 0.5 inches. It can take a long time to get the window closed. However, the window opens normally when the switch is pressed to open it. Any suggestions what is wrong?

Hello,

The 1995 Transport power window regulator does not have an assist spring to help the window motor raise the glass.

You'll need a new motor as yours is weak enough that the motor's internal thermal heat circuit breaker is tripping. That is what causes the waiting period before the motor will try again. It has to cool down.

The glass moves downward easily due to the weight of the glass helping the motor to run without tripping the internal circuit breaker.

The window regulator and motor assembly are riveted to the door. Remove the lower door trim panel and moisture barrier. Unplug the window motor. With a punch knock the center steel pin from the center of each of the five 1/4" retaining rivets holding the regulator assembly in place. Lower the motor end of the regulator down into the door and slide the regulator toward the front of the door until the regulator arm will slip out of the glass sash run channel.

Remove the assembly from the door.

Note the position of the bracket riveted to the motor and drill out the five rivets holding the bracket to the motor(2) and the motor to the regulator(3).

Assemble the new motor to the regulator using three bolts or rivets. Install the bracket to the motor in the same position on the new motor as it came off the old motor.

NOTE:!!! If you are using 1/4" bolts to remount the assembly in the door NOW is the time to install the bolts you will not be able to install when the assembly is in the door. Install the bolt through the bracket so the threads will be toward you and the bolt head will be INSIDE the door. You can slip an "O" ring over the bolt threads to keep the bolts from falling out.

Lubricate the regulator arm gear teeth that the motor engages. I use grease.

Check the movement of the glass in the run channels on the door. Be sure it moves smoothly. There are black plastic run channel guides on the front and rear edges of the glass. They must be in good condition and still snapped in the run channels or the glass will get off track. Lubricate the run channels with white grease if needed.

Assemble the motor/regulator assembly into the door reversing the removal steps. Use new 1/4" short rivets or 1/4" bolts to mount the assembly to the door after you get the arm back in the glass sash channel.

AGAIN:

If you use 1/4" bolts to mount the regulator to the door the heads of the bolts must be THIN and on the regulator side of the door. If not the bolt and nut will block the movement of the regulator arm!!!!!!

Mount the motor bracket to the door and connect the motor wiring. Use the window switch to "bump" the motor until the regulator mount holes line up and then secure the regulator to the door.

Be careful not to activate the window Express Down feature as you will have trouble controlling regulator movement. Personal injury can result so stay alert and use extreme caution.

Test the glass movement full travel. If OK, assemble the door trim. You are finished.

Roger

How are you doing here, please? I could use an update.

Any news?

Roger

Sorry not to have replied before now.
That is a very comprehensive answer to my query - thank you very much indeed for that.
I will try to get a replacement motor, but since I live in France, that will not be easy. The Pontiac is only used for 3 or four weeks per year, when my grandchildren are staying with me, so possibly the easiest thing for me is to never lower the window.
Once more I thank you for your detailed answer

Willie Fowler, [redacted]

What then shall we do with this question?

To accept my answer please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Thank you,

Roger

1995 Pontiac Trans Sport All Part Groups   

When I first got this car it would only skip around 45 miles per hour or so. It progressively got worse. It had all types of error codes in the computer. I took it in and had a tune up done( plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, oilchange). This didn't stop the skip. It is now worse. I have in the last month replaced the egr valve, MAF sensor( I have replaced the MAF sensor three times and the code keeps coming up. I replaced the last one 1 week ago. It seemed to help some but the light is back on intermedatly.), Nuetral safty switch, 2 coil packs, and the PCM(mechanic said to replace the PCM because the codes made no sense). Each thing I changes seem to make the problem a bit different but it is still there. It is now dieing at idle ie. at a stop sign or redlight. It does not do this all the time but enough to be very annoying. If I switch it up to Nuetral it will not die. It will only die in Park(rarely), overdrive and drive(most of the time. It also skips and jerks sometimes when acceslerating sometimes it can be pretty rough. I had the transmission seviced as well there was some metal in on the magnet in the pan not sure if that has anyting to do with it or not. I have also noticed it acts up worse after it is driven for about 30 miles or so. Each morning I drive my daughters to my sisters about 30 miles from my house. I will shut the van off and when I get back in the van it seems to always be worse on the second leg of the trip. Thank you for your help I hope this is enough info.

Are you getting any error codes now? If yes which numbers?

Was the PCM replacement new or used?

Have you tested the idle speed (aka- idle air control valve) motor?

Let me know and we'll try to sort this out.

The PCM was new to the best of my knowledge my mechanic ordered it for me I saw teh box it came it but I think it may have been a reman I am not sure. It was not a pull from a junk yard I am sure of that. The service engine soon light is not on at the moment but it did come on abouty 10 minutes after I installed the latest of the three MAF sensors. I do not remember what the number was that was coming up but my mechanic said it was a MAF failure if that helps any. I havn't put it on a computer to test the codes since I replaced the MAF again I am tired of paying 40 bucks a pop and am going to buy a obd 1 myself tomorrow for 30 bucks. I havn't tested the IAC I do not know how. I know it is on the trottle body I belive and is easy to get to on this model that is about the exstent of my knowledge here.

Check your ALDL connector. If you have a metal terminal in terminals A & B (as opposed to one that is empty) you can check the trouble codes with a paper clip. Simply insert a paper clip ( or any conductor that fits) and turn On the Key. The check engine light will start flashing the codes.

Flash pause Flash Flash is code 12. It make take a few tries to get the hang of it. Don't worry, you can simply turn off the key and then back on to start over.

If you don't, a GM cable scanner is all that will work. In either case, don't buy the OBD1 tester (not necessary or won't work).

the connector I have is a 12 pin connector but it doesn't have the same metal connections I am seeing in the diagrams I pulled up on alldata.com. What I have has coming from the parking break to the radio no metal until you get to the last of the 6 connections on top then on the bottom line a metal connection in the third pin connection and one in the last of the 6 connections on the bottom. I tried to jump the others couldn't get a response.

Use the following link to view a diagram of the ALDL. You have to look closely, but should see terminals A & B labeled on the connector.

Don't jump anything other than terminals A & B.

Remember, all the $20-30 "code readers" do is the same thing that can be accomplished with a paper clip (at least the ones I have seen). They do come with code definitions, but they are freely available on the internet.

If you are missing the B terminal, it is what is called partially OBD2 compliant. Why they felt the need to do this, I don't know.

Sorry, I forgot the link-

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/

I am missing the B terminal is there another way to do this?

No, not without a "professional" scanner.

I was hoping for the actual trouble codes, as these are sometimes misinterpreted. We will try to work around them for now.

I want you to remove the connector to the MAF and thoroughly inspect it for pin damage/corrosion/etc. Follow the wiring as far as you can and inspect for damage. Also inpsect the duct work for any cracks or looseness (especially after the MAF).

It seems your idle speed motor may be inoperative. This is especially likely if the engine runs fine if press slightly on the gas pedal. Remove it and clean the valve as well as the port back into the throttle body. Also clean the throttle body blade (this is what opens when you press the accelerator). Use throttle body cleaner and a brush.

Additionaly check for vacuum leaks.


Is the skipping still a problem at 45 or so mph?

Ok thank you I will try all of that. I already have the connections loose. I am not sure if cutting out is the right term but it is the only one I know really. It will make a put-put-put sound when you try to merge on to the interstate for instance or even on regular highways. It is not necessarily at 45 anymore it varies but if you hit the gas and let off then hit it again it will usually kick out of it for atleast a few minutes. It does take spells to where it will do this for miles. Some times it will get so bad you can hear a bang, bang bang like something is hiting something. Today it didn't want to get out of the 35 mph range easily. You basically have to make it go by hitting the gas pedel until it decides to kick in when it acts up. Hope this helps

Which connections do you have loose? You don't want loose connections at any sensors.

The connection going to the maf,and egr valve I took loose so I could get to the IAC without hurting any of the wires on accident.

I did that after you said to take out the IAC and clean it not before. Havn't got that done yet by the way my screwdriver set is eluding me.

Sometimes that happens.

Let me know what you find.

1995 Pontiac Trans Sport Engine   

Hello

My TransPort has until recently behaved faultlessly. About 4 weeks ago it began to be difficult to start in the morning, then 2 weeks ago in was impossible to start. I tried it every morning (with a pair of jump leads onto the battery of another car, so as not to run down the Pontiac battery) - not a flicker of life. I then pushed the car, in order to turn it, by chance, I tried to start the engine and it started straight away. I drove the car out onto the road and left it there for 3 - 4 hours. When I tried to start it - no life. I pushed the car a few yards along the road, and low and behold, when I tried it agai, it started.

The battery is in good condition and turns the engine without problem. I checked that there was a spark at the plugs - there was. It seems to me that there is a fuel supply problem, though there is plenty of fuel in th etank and when the ignition is switched on I can hear the petrol pump run and then stop when the system is pressurised.

Any suggestions what the problem might be?

Hello
Is it cranking over good and not wanting to start or is it sometimes not cranking at all
Heavychevy

Hello

It cranks over very well, I am sure there is no problem on the electrics side - it is a fuel problem

Hello
If the fuel pump is working and it gets pressure and stops I would suggest looking at the fuel injecters to see if they are clogged or malfunctioning.
Heavychevy

what I don't understand is that from not firing in the slightest, twice after the car was moved few yards, the engine started immediately. I don't think that the problem is with the injectors

which is it than earlier you said

"It cranks over very well, I am sure there is no problem on the electrics side - it is a fuel problem"

I am going to have to release you and let another mechanic help you diagnos.

OK thank you very much

ok