SAAB 900

1998 SAAB 900 Fuel System   

I have been having idle problems with my 900 turbo 5 speed. Most of the time the idle will go over 2000 rpms after the car has been warmed up.I have replaced the coolant temp senser,searched for vacuum leaks with carburator cleaner didn't find any but the lines looked brittle so I replaced. I had a diagnostic read on the car it said TPS bad, replaced it with a new one,no luck, tried another Idle control valve ,no luck here either. New oxygen senser did not help either. I had another check engine light to come on it said high input to the TPS (PO-123) where should I look now that would send this code?

Check the wiring to the sensor, especially the connector. If the computer sees a problem with TPS voltage this usually affects idle as you mentioned. If you clear the code does the problem go away temporarily?

Yes it will go away for a while and then come back I have also been getting bad gas mileage since this idle problem started.

Okay, check the wiring & connector. Look for corrosion and pin damage.

I assume you have your own trouble code reader OR are getting the codes checked Free of Charge at Autozone or Advance Auto.

I will check the connections at the tps, I purchased a code reader to help figure out my problem. Do you know how much voltage in and out at idle I should have at the tps. One thing I did not metion is beore the idle problem started in the mornings when I started the car it would start and idle a little high (like it is suppose to do) but it would act like the engine was gioing to stall a cuple of times during warm up then it would pick back up and run good and idle right.

The additional information is a common compliant with a TPS problem.

If it only acts up sometimes, try a wiggle test on the wiring to the TPS. USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS!!! With the engine idling try wiggling/tuggling on the wiring trying to locate a point that recreates the problem.

Reference voltage is usually 5 volts.

Did you intall the TPS with the correct adjustment.I usually adjust mine with a Snap On Scanner hooked up, not sure if your scanner has that feature to do that.Is the voltage 5 volts at the connector? Test the alternator to ensure the charging voltage is not too high.Ensure the inside of the throttle body is clean. Sometimes a little ring wear can cause an unnoticable amount of blowby and the throttle body can get a little gummed up. I usually clean it out with an aerosol air intake cleaner.

The throttle body looked clean. The tps mounting holes are not slotted how would you go about adjusting it?

Usually they are slotted a small amount.I find that even the smallest amount makes a difference.

I did get a little movement in the tps but no results in getting the idle down. How much voltage soul I be getting at the tps input? I also tried clamping down on the idle control valve hose it will help it to idle down but when it is cold it is hard to start with it clamped. I have tried 2 idle control valves . I still wonder why I am getting the high input to the throttle position senser on the diagnostics.

most injected cars have 5 volt sensor voltage.
Traditionally a high idle speed can mean a small vacuum leak.

I am getting around 5 volts to the tps so it is about right. I noticed an adjustment on the idle control valve so i adjusted it so it was closed with no power. I did check for vacuum leaks havent found any yet but replaced several hoses that looked brittle. I srayed carb cleaner everywhere around the intake to check for leaks with no luck. I had a Volvo once that had a intake manifold it idled rough. This thing doesn't shake at all just runs fast.I did check the voltage to the Idle control valve and was getting a little over 12 volts at over 2000 rpms . Isn't this voltage suppose to drop when the engine is idling fast ? Thanks for the help

The voltage does look high ( a function of the CPU) Sometimes a vac leak, just messes with idle speed, sometimes, but always idle quality. have you had it scanned by codes with something other than a simple code reader? Might be an idea, to have someone with a scan tool (Snap-On?) that can perform other diagnostic checks.

That is probably what I will end up doing. I saw where a couple of wires going to the computer had been spliced before I bought the car I used my meter to make sure they were connected good and decided to put a new butt connectors on them anyway. I hooked the computer back up (codes cleared) started the car up and it seemed to do better no real high idle it did kind hesitate droping after 1500 rpm then slowly drop to 1000 rpm . I drove it about eight miles ( no codes returned) will try driving it more tomorrow. Do you think the computer could possibly be the problem? When I cleared the codes with my scan tool the codes came right back after a mile of driving along with the high idle. I sure appreciate the help.

1997 SAAB 900 All Part Groups Malfunction Happens always Always

I took my car to be serviced and the battery was disengaged, and I know this cause I had to put the radio code in, clock, etc. But what also happened The fan keeps blowing when I start the engine (for the air conditioner or heater). And when I press the off button the fan just keeps on blowing.
I looked in the booklet to see if there was something I had to do, so I tried the calibration by pressing Auto and Off at the same time for a few seconds and the number on the display did turn to zero like the manual said...but the fan still blows...as soon as I turn on the engine. It is annoying but it may not be good for the car always blowing...and on nice days I may not want to hear that fan going...and in cold days...it will blow cold air until it heats up...which will be annoying when normally I turn the heater off until the 5 minutes and then turn it on so that I am not freezing

Try resetting everything again. Disconnect the battery cables for five minutes. While the cables are still disconnected touch the cables together (this will drain any capacitors).

If this does not work you either have a relay stuck on or a module problem that'll need a Saab capable scan tool to diagnose.

What service was your car in for?

Thank you----The shop gave me new brakes and front roters. What do you mean touch the green cable( I think it is green) with the red cable? and for how long?

Disconnect the battery terminals (this way NOTHING is connected to the battery) and touch them together for a few seconds. Wait several minutes with the battery unhooked before touching them together. If you don't fully understand these instructions, simply disconnect the battery for fifteen minutes, press the brake pedal down for five seconds, then reconnect the battery. This may or may not work, it is worth a try to avoid have you car put on a scanner.

Was it a Saab dealer or independent garage?

1997 SAAB 900 Fuel System Won't Start Happens always When cold

900 SE 2.0L turbo. Won't start when cold. Starts fine when warm and runs fine once started.

Begin by seeing if there are any diagnostic codes in the cars computer. Advance Auto and Autozone stores offer free trouble code retrieval.

1997 SAAB 900 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

While driving along at 30-40mph unexpectedly the engine stops running without warning. After pulling off the road I can restart the car immediately and continue to drive.

If it shuts off instantly you are probably losing spark. Start by having the trouble codes checked, most Advance Auto and Autozone stores do this free of charge. Let me which trouble codes they find.

If it chugs/sputter to a to a stop you may be losing fuel pressure. Monitor pressure with a gauge.

It does not sputter or chug to a stop. It acts like the key shuts off but all the dash lights stay on.

Okay, you probably have an ignition component dropping out. Have the trouble checked and get back to me.

1997 SAAB 900 All Part Groups   

car stalls uot while driving but restarts has bad hesitation before and after stalling.

A tune-up may be needed if overdue. A clogging fuel filter can cause these symptoms.

Is there any check engine light on while the car is running? If there is visit Autozone or Advance Auto and they'll check the trouble codes free of charge. Let me know which trouble codes are found.

no check engine lite
has new fuel filter

You should have the fuel pressure checked with a gauge to see if pressure is low.

It wouldn't hurt to have the codes checked as there could be a history or pending trouble code that may be of help.

1997 SAAB 900 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

car wont start than it starts and runs fine the code i am getting says system voltage malfunction. How do i fix it

Does the engine crank when it will not start?

Anytime there is a voltage problem remove and clean battery terminals as well as engine/chassis grounds.

the engine cranks fine it acts like a fuel problem, when i give it stating fluid it starts and will be ok for days and sometimes weeks, and than it will not start again or stall for no reason.

Have you read trouble codes with a code reader? Autzone or Advance Auto will test for free. Let me know which alphanumeric codes they find, IE- P0400, P1411, etc.

the code is po560

1996 SAAB 900 All Part Groups   

i have a 1996 saab 900 se turbo 2.0 liter. my car is making a knocking orloud ticking noise like underneath the dashboard on the passener side corner were they keep their feet on the right upper side its closest heard.. when you open engineyou dont hear the noise you only hear it good inside.. the noise come on and stays on most often sometimes it stops for a few and goes on it only quiets down dramatically when the car is reverse...... what could this noise be?

There is a Boost Control Valve that has 3 wires and a vacuum hose attached to it. It controls boost pressure for the turbo.It sometimes makes noise although that does not necessarily mean it is failing, just an annoying noise.

ok but the noise is on in the car 80% how can i stop the noise or get rid of it? and is it that its bmnaking that knocking noise bad.. Can my turbo go bad with these noise symptoms.....Why when im in reverse thenoise quiets........ And please tell me how i can fix it or get to it

When it is making the noise, try to have a friend locate exactly wheree the component is, then describe it to me with any numbers etc on it.
Reverse you are going too slow to test, only forward

i mean when you open the hood you cant realy hear it very hard not enough to locate but noise is best heard inside on passanger side underneath the glove compartment... could it be power steering pump? its so werid its better heard inside any suggestions what it could be

Sometimes something under the hood is close enough to the firewall that the noise is transmitted inside.
Two ways to find a noise:
A mechanics stethescope (like a doc's one) is cheap and works well.
A short length of hose (about 2 ft garden hose works well) put to your ear and the syspected part, works too.

um where is the turbo boost valve like you said located on my saab......

and also the EVAP purge valve can that make the noise and could you give me location of it thanksss.......

The Evap valve is located on the RH inner fender, has a large gas line size hose on each end and a smaller one in middle.
The boost control valve has two larger hoses (heater hose size) coming perpindicularly out one side and a smaller vac hose in the middle.

now is the boost control valve is located where??

now the evap valve how could i get to it to look at it and hear it unnder the car or from above?? Could a bad evap valve make me get worse gas milage for some reason im only getting 18 miles to gallon i should get 30....

Do you also think the evap valve could be it

Side of motor by turbo.Do google search for Saab boost control valve to see photo, to help identify.
Both could cause poor economy.
Vac leak and no tuneups can cause same.

1996 SAAB 900 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Driving home today, I was making a right-hand turn (after making a left) and the blinker stopped working. I checked my fuses and sure enough #2 dash panel fuse was blown. I replaced it, turned on the blinkers and it worked until I used the right-hand side one. Somehow after poking around, it stopped blowing the fuse but now the right-front blinker light is always on and neither of the right-hand side lights blink. Also, the tiny side lights on the front quarter panels dont work at all on either side. All lamps were checked and are good. I went to Autozone to see what they had to say and the guy sold me a round two-prong relay. Of course, there isn't a relay plug anywhere that I can find for directionals. -Matt

Update: I was wrong. It is my running light that stays on. My left-hand side one wasn't working therefore it looked as though the right was staying on. These bulbs have two filaments - one for running/parking light and another for directional.

I commonly find that when the lights get 'strange' it is a wiring ground(_) circuit. Lights are commonly grounded at the front and rear lights, with a simple screw attached to the sheetmetal. If a ground is lost, then the current tries to go another route, often causing erratic light operation. The ground is an easy thing to diagnose with a test light or a volt ohm meter.
Another idea. Sometimes when one filament (in a two filament bulb) burns out, it lies across the other filament, causing erratic lights. I would not have had mentioned it, but I have seen it happen 3-4 times.So check or replace the bulbs.
Also just check the wiring over for something amiss, such as a frayed wire.

I have checked & replaced all bulbs that are a part of this circuit. I have an account at alldatadiy.com and have a Saab WIS on my computer as well as an EPC. I have checked all my wires and I am afraid there might just be an issue with my wiring harness. Although, all the wires are nice and tidy, clean and shiny. I just find it strange there is no relay for my blinkers.

Actually it does have a turn signal flasher located under the drivers side dash area. Look for a square relay, black, aprox 1 inch square and 2 inches tall. Four prong type terminals on base. Look for number 85-83-627 OR Hella # 4DB003-750-04 or similar

Okay, today while at work I called the guys at thesaabsite.com, which is where I order 90% of my Saab parts and they know very specifically what I have by my VIN (YS3DF55N[redacted] ). They said it is most likely the directional switch itself, but I am waiting for a reply from their head mechanic as to what else to check for. Meanwhile, I'm going to look for the relay you gave me the number to. I believe it is the intermittent wipers relay that you numbered off... Is it possible that it would use that? None of the technical diagrams I have show a "flasher, directionals, or blinker" relay anywhere but we will see. Thank you for your help!!! I'll get back to you after I've gotten up in there.

Okay. Sure enough, none of the relays have that number on them. All of which are either gray BOSCH or GM, or white SAAB relays. All are square, and all are five prong except one small GM 1/2 size relay.

I am taking a multimeter to the terminals of each positive side of the lights to test for a short now.

Oh, and I forgot to mention. My blinkers work even with every single relay pulled out all at once. I first tried pulling one at a time, then I removed every single one and none of them stopped the blinkers or hazards.

My final update.... I managed to figure out exactly what is going on. My ICE (integrated computer electronics device) does control the blinkers. That being said, when I first blew my fuse by using the right-hand blinker, I only had a 30A fuse when the slot called for a 15A. Using this, it blew one of the circuits on pin 1 inside the ICE. I soldered it back together and now it blows the fuse again (like it is supposed to). All I have to do now is figure out which wire is grounding/shorting. Thank you for your help!

1996 SAAB 900 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a '96 900S manual 5-speed. When I try to start the car it turns over fine like it wants to start but can't quite make it. The digital dash lights will not come on, the fuel gauge won't move to full, and it won't start. I've replaced the battery and the red positive lead cable to the battery. A few times the digital lights come on for a second or two, the fuel gauge moves up and the car starts, but this is very rare. Most of the time it doesn't start. Anyone heard of this?

It sound like you have a bad connection. Check the battery, engine and body grounds thoroughly.

1995 SAAB 900 Engine Lagging When accelerating Always

Hi. I have a 900SE with the 2.0L engine and the turbo charger. Whenever I release the clutch going to any gear (1st-5th) the engine whines and rears up as if the turbo charge is ingaging. The RPM skyrockets but no acceleration is barely being put foward. Looking at the turbo needle, it stays mostly in the yellow when accelerating. I tried using the pre-ignition check sequence (when you turn the ignition switch on slighty so it runs a self diagnostic) but I haven't been able to figure out what is causing the problem. I know the care is due for it oil change and fuel filter replacement. Could either of those be causing the problem?

Hello, have you considered the clutch condition? How old is it? Does the rear main oil seal leak oil onto the clutch? Do you note a burning smell?

Please advise,

Roger

I'll have to check under the car to see if the seal is leaking oil onto the clutch, but I haven't observed any leaks on the vehicle. I do notice a burning smell though coming from the vents.

Also, I don't think the clutch was ever changed on the car. It was a used model with about 70,000 mile on it. If I had to guess it wasn't changed at all and still has the original one on. I know when I changed the spark plugs they still had the factory ones on.

If the clutch were fairly new and this "slipping" was happening there would be reason to suspect an oil leak from the engine's rear main seal.

You may have a simply "worn-out" clutch.(A maintenance item due to wear.) Shop locally for your best deal. Get more than one quote estimate. This is a big job.

Roger

1995 SAAB 900 Engine Malfunction When shifting Always

Got an issue and I'm hoping you can once again lend some assistance. I just had the clutch replaced on my vehicle and everything was working okay. After about 5 minutes of test driving her out, the shift stick got really loose and started giving me problems selecting the appropriate gear. The transmission is good on the vehicle and it runs like it's supposed to, but I can't figure out what could've happened. It's really anonnoying as I can't put the car into reverse or go into 5th gear with moving the stick near the reverse area. Could there be some little ring, bushing or something causing this issue?

This is for a 900SE with a 5 speed manual transmission by the way.

The first thing you want to check is for a leak in the hydralic system,check the master cylinder and check the linkage to make sure that the pressure plate is being engaged to allow for shifting

Brought it back to the shop. The master cylinder not leaking at all and the preassure plates set correctly. I had the transmission re-placed back onto the car to ensure the linkage was correct. The car started working fine going into all it gears correctly once it was placed back on the ground so I thought maybe he might have set the linkage wrong. I was happily driving away until I went to shift that the stick got all loose and screwy again...

It's like whenever it does it, I maintain the ability to shift into all gears (cept reverse). It also feels like the tension resistance I normally feel seperating the gears (the resistance seperating 1st from 3rd from 5th) just goes limp. I'm not sure of what parts could be causing this...

This is still in my opinion pointing towards a linkage problem
The linkage adjustment is so sensitive
It is possibly binding up
When the problem is existing you should turn the car off and manually shift it into the gear you cannot find reverse,5th etc and then clutch it, and start it, release the clutch so you can see what gear it is in
If you can get these gears manually then it definately point to the adjustment on the linkage
hope this helps macconeck

I cannot get into reverse while the car is off. I can only get into 1st,2nd,3rd,4th, and 5th. To get into 5th gear I have to push the little button underneath the stick (safety switch to place car in reverse) to get access all the way to the right and shift up.

you may want to try and push the shift macanism attached to the transmission in first and then try to go to reverse
that is to keep you from hitting reverse while in a forward gear so push in and twist.
and also can only get into 1st,2nd,3rd,4th, and 5th
while the car is off?
how about when the car is on and running
can you still hit those gears?

Brought the car into the mechanic shop and had him do what you said. Car worked like it was supposed to and then after awhile the stick went loose again.

While the car is on and off, it can go into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th. I cannot put the car into reverse at all.

While the car as acting like it was suppossed to, I was able to shift into all gears, with the vehicle both on and off.

The problem is evedently a mechanical failure within the shift box if the linkage is correct.
from what you decribe you may want to check out another shop to get it diagnosed
at least get a second opinion on that trans
job
hope this helps
Macconeck

1995 SAAB 900 Ignition System Stalling Happens sometimes When cold

Hi.

For the past 4-5 days, my Saab always stalls the first time I start it after sitting for a while (basically going/coming from work). I turn the key, it starts, struggles, stalls (oil and engine lights come on, trip computer says nothing). I take the key out, put it back in, start the engine a second time, and its FINE. No other symptoms. Just took it to Midas for an oil change and they said I'd have to go to a dealer b/c they have no clue.

Thanks so much in advance! I love this car; hope its not serious.

Brittany

Diagnostics will have to be performed to determine the problem. The first thing I'd check is fuel pressure, resting pressure in particular to see if pressure is dropping off (there are a couple causes for this).

Shop around to see there is a good import repair facility in your area, some places have them while others do not.

One thing you could try before going to the shop is quickly revving the engine (while in park/neutral of course) when the problem would be present. If the engine falls flat on its face fuel pressure may be low. If the engine improves you may be getting to much fuel or have an idle speed motor problem.

Let me know what you find.

1993 SAAB 900 Engine   

The engine idles at just over 1000rpm but from either cold or hot when stopping, its an automatic, the revs drop suddenly and the engine cuts out. This happens perhaps 3/4 times in succession and then "clears" to reappear! Is this to do with the timing or fuel system? Or what? Help its dangerous out there.

You will simply do a fuel pressure test and see if the pressure drops out before the engine shuts down.
It will most likely be fuel related form the consistency.

Thanks for the diagnostic. If I do a pressure test (how) when the car is running ok will this indicate anything. The problem is that the cutting out is erratic and often in busy traffic etc so how does one do atest in these circumstances? If the pressure is low (can it relate to the volume of gas in the tank?) does this indicate a problem with the fuel pump orwith the sending unit as I nderstand they use the same wire? My challenge is trying to understand why it does it from time to time and not all the time.
Thanks for any other advice you can offer.
Have a good Xmas.

Yes it can be determined by the consistency of pressure weather the fuel pressure regulator or pump is working or not.
The pressure sould be at 30 to 45 psi consistent and never drop below until approx 20 seconds after you turn off the ignition.

1993 SAAB 900 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My 1993 Saab 900 Turbo convertible has a few electrical issues that I think may be related. There is only some electicity getting to the rear of the car. The brake lights work when applied, and the emergency flashers work, however no other rear lights work, the trunk lock will not work, and the convetible top motor will not work. I am wondering if there is a bundle of electrical cables that may control all of the items above that are not functioining. Thank you very much for your assistance.

When you have an electrical problem always start by check fuses (make sure you have power on both sides.

Then you need to determine is if you are missing power OR ground to individual components. Which is missing?

1993 SAAB 900 All Part Groups   

I started my car to go to work, and left it for about ten minutes and when i went back out it was off and wouldn't start again. It sounds like it wants to turn over when i try it after its been sitting for a while but then the more i try the less it does, it is now at the point where i'll turn my key and everything inside (sterio, lights) will work but thats it

Sounds like the battery is dead. First check under the hood to ensure the fan belt is still on. If thats ok, check the battery connections for corrosion.
If you decide to boost the battery with 'jumper cables' and another car, it might start.
Then check the battery guage too ensure it is chaging.Also check the date on the battery.If the date code is near 5 years old, it will be due soon for replacement.
If the battery is dead, a battery charger is better than jumper cables.
When you get it running, drop into a shop for a battery and alternator test. Cheap and important, if the alternator is not working, a fully charged battery might last a day or so, before it runs down.
By the way, a weak battery will still power small lights and stereos,

I replaced my battery about 5 months ago and got a new alternator at the same time, however i did leave my car on at work a few days ago, and i couldnt get it started even jumping it, so i left it for the weekend and went back and jumped it and it worked fine. Should i still bother with getting an alternator and battery test? and somebody told me they think it could be the fuel pump because im always running my car to empty, does that make any sense?

Running gas tank to empty is quite bad on pump as they are cooled by fuel.I would say 5-6 times can kill pump.
Check connections on battery...clean and tight..
When running again do get the battery and Alternator tested...new ones do fail, thats why they have warranties.

1992 SAAB 900 Drive Train / Driveline   

came out in morning and pedal has no pressure at all...fluid res was low...filled..still no presure. had wife pump a few times ,hold down, and released nipple..some air came out but no pressure build up after 15 times..should i release nipple than push pedal and tighten?was i doing it backward?

If air had entered the system, the problem will need addressing before it is safe to drive again.

The clutch master cylinder, line, or slave is likely bad. Most likely the line or master cylinder based on the info you have provided (no pressure getting to the slave cylinder). Note- I'm assuming you are talking about the clutch and not the brakes.

1989 SAAB 900 Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When driving Always

I am looking for a Saab rear suspension spring stop, part number 02 43 345, for a 1989 Saab 900S. Can you help me?

Are you talking about the coned shape spring stop in-between the springs and the spacer ring?

I don't know. All I do know is the part number and that it is a part that does not come standard on the vehicle. My problem is that I got four saab rims from a junk yard, that look exactly like my originals, but are actually 1/2" wider and my snow tires are 195-65-15 instead of the standard 185-65-15, and this causes the tires to rub when the vehicle has four adults and some luggage in it and it goes over a significant bump. With just one or two people in it, it doesn't rub. So my mechanic found that the part I am asking about can no longer be ordered from the saab dealer. That's why I'm on the internet, looking for this part.

1989 SAAB 900 Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

My car starts fine if it has been shut off for more than eight hours. It also starts fine if it has been sitting for under five minutes. Between five minutes since shut off and eight hours since shut off, one must either crank the engine and allow it to stall twice before it will remain running, or use the gas pedal to get the car to start, releasing the pedal after about 5 seconds when the engine smooths out. Car runs fine at idle and at speed after it has started. Occassionally, the idle will be jumpy, but only when in gear. Any ideas?

It sounds as if the engine may be flooding after sitting.

If fuel injected- this can be caused by the fuel pressure regulator or a leaky fuel injector. Shut the car off and let it sit until the engine is cool (say an hour). Pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator and inspect for signs of raw gasoline (wet or a strong gasoline odor). If there is gasoline present the diaphragm inside the regulator has ruptured and is leaking internally (replace the regulator). Let me know if this is the problem.

I'm very impressed. I pulled off the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, and it had a ferocious gasoline smell, so I assumed you were correct, and replaced the regulator. In doing so, I discovered that not only was the regulator faulty, but it was the wrong one for the car! The car runs exponentially better now, and the only thing it still does is experience an irregular idle (sometimes jumpy between 800 and 1100 rpm while stopped and in gear when cold). Thank you very much for helping me with that problem. I'm really, really impressed.

--Andrew

1989 SAAB 900 Ignition System   

Car died abruptly this morning - no warning. Found blown primary 15A ignition fuse. Replaced with new fuse but blew that one immediately upon cranking. My car is a non-turbo model and had been running extremely well. Any suggestions would be appreciated

When the fuse blows the problem can be anywhere on the circuit which can be very difficult to track down.

What you can try- in a well shaded area (dark enough to see a spark) install a new fuse and have an assistant turn the key On while you look for an underhood spark. An extra assistant to watch for spark wouldn't hurt. Just turning the key to the ON position is probably all it takes to blow the fuse. This may reveal a short or shorting component.

If actual engine cranking is required to blow the fuse, you may have a problem in the starter/solenoid area.

Check all wiring thoroughly for rub-throughs in the insulation.

Note- Never replace a fuse with a higher amperage fuse as this poses a serious risk of fire. Also, don't repeatedly replace fuse when troubleshooting, allow a cool down period of a few minutes.

Beyond this you'll need a wiring diagram to follow. These are scarce for this year but can be bought for a reasonable price, if you need a source let me know.

Waited until dark last night and did as you suggested. 2 fuses blew in succession as soon as the ignition key turns to a hot spot. Unfortunately, I could not see, hear or smell anything unusual under the hood. I installed a third fuse and decided to listen for arcing in the passenger compartment. This time the fuse did not blow and the car started fine. The problem seems to be intermittent. I tried manipulating all wiring while the car idled but could not reproduce the problem. I am suspicious of a problem with the ignition switch and plan to remove and examine that next. Any further suggestions would be appreciated.

Try wiggle the ignition switch / key to see if you can reproduce the failure. You are doing about all you can, interment's can be real tough to find.

Tracked problem to the condensor mounted on firewall, attached to plus 15Volt terminal on ignition coil. Replaced this and resolved problem. Thanks for your advice.

1987 SAAB 900 Fuel System Malfunction When starting Always

While driving on the highway back home my rpm suddenly started dropping almost to zero and then it would pick up again. It did this maybe 5 times for the 15 minute drive and then I parked it to look at it in the morning . I tried starting the car; it cranked but woulnd't turn over. I recently bought the car so I looked it over to find the fuel filter looked like it had never been changed. I replaced it hoping it was the cause, then I changed out the spark plugs. The filter sounds lkie it is kicking on and there is spark to the engine. Any suggetsions as to where to look next?

9 times out of 10 it would be the fuel pump if so i believe it is in the gas tank if that dont work change the distributor cap and rotor button

1987 SAAB 900 Fuel System   

CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR 3 YEAR . NO GAS COMING TO ENGINE HELP

Try banging on bottom of fuel tank with a block of wood (don't use anything that will create SPARKS or damage the tank). This may get the fuel pump (inside the tank) working.

Further, inspect wiring to the fuel pump to see if it has been damaged, etc.

Don't overlook fuses.

I assume there is spark to the spark plugs.

1986 SAAB 900 Engine   

temperature gauge runs hot. caused radiator hose to burst. Replaced radiator hose and heater hose, checked fan, gauge continues to pass "red" mark. Thank you

I assume the fan is running when the car overheats.

You didn't mention the thermostat, this is the most common cause of engine overheating (when there is not a leak). Check/replace the thermostat. Let me know if this is the problem.

The fan was disconnected - now running. mechanic
is now checking thermostate. Thank God for your
service. Will be back in touch. Thanks, again

There can be many causes, I'll do my best to help you solve the problem.

Thanks, am waiting
To hear from mechanic. Will
Reply asap.

Again, thank you. Mechanic talked in circles
about what he did - I do understand flush, replaced
water/heater hose; etc. Talk w/you the next time.

Has he repaired the problem, or does it still remain?

1986 SAAB 900 All Part Groups   

My 1986 Saab 900 Turbo isn't starting. At first it wouldn't start immediately, but after turning the key 20-30 times, it would start up. This week, it would turn over but not start. I had it towed to my mechanic and he reconnected a loose vacuum hose. The next day it started. The day after that, however, it wouldn't start again, and I had it towed to the same mechanic. They ended up replacing the ignition coil, and it started up. It worked this morning, but this evening... nothing. It won't even turn over.

Since it is not even turning over, you have a new problem. Of course, make sure it is in park (or the clutch is in). If there are no lights in the dash, look for a bad battery/battery connections. If the dash lights are on, look for a bad starter, or battery cables.

1984 SAAB 900 Ignition System Won't Start Happens always When cold

The battery is strong and the car turns over but does not start. I replaced the plugs, distributor cap and rotor. Once I get the car started by popping the clutch, it will start beautifully all day provided it does not sit for a long time. 4+ hours is deadly. By morning...I'm not going anyplace.

It is necessary to troubleshoot the problem before replacing any parts.
During the no start period you need to find out what is missing-
1- Spark (use a spark tester)
2- Fuel (one way is to spray a shot of carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if engine starts, only do this if you have used carb cleaner before and follow safety precautions.

With the symptoms you have described the engine is probably not recieving adequate fuel when cold.

BTW- we can respond back and forth as needed to solve the problem.

The first thing you'll have to do is use a spark tester to see if there is spark to plugs during no start period.