SAAB 9000

1997 SAAB 9000 Engine   

I have noticed that my turbo boost gauge does not seem to move when I am accelerating. I don't see any leaks from the turbo. Can you tell me what this problem is? I'm afread that my turbo isn't working at all.

Do you have any check engine light while the engine is running?

If you do visit an Advance Auto or Autozone and they'll check the codes free of charge. It might not be a bad idea to do anyways, instruct them to also check for 'Pending' codes too. Let us know which if any alphanumeric codes they fine, EG- P0300, P0500, etc.

1997 SAAB 9000 Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a Saab 9000 CSE with a ZF HP18Q transmission. I put in a spring kit because the transmission was jumping from 2nd to 4th. I reassembled the transmission and now the linkage is messed up. Is there a position marker that would help me put the transmission back together so that it will shift correctly? I do not have reverse and the car will only go forward in all gears. I can not pull it down into first gear

What information system did you use to perform the repair?

1996 SAAB 9000 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

all my gauges stopped workin at the same time my fuel ,temp control ,info screen all of them is there a fuse or relay for them

Hi, Check Fuse #13 (10 amp) in the dashboard electrical distribution box.

For a copy of the power distribution please advise your email address.

Thanks,

Roger

Are you receiving my messages? What did you find concerning Fuse #13?

Roger

1995 SAAB 9000 Ignition System Hesitating When accelerating Always

The ignition seems to shut down when in the yellow and red area no matter the gear. aero manual xmission. Whas up?

I'm a first time user of this system. I've been waiting 45 min for a responce, is this normal?

A long time ago a young lady assured me that I would be satisfied if I would only give her some money. I did, at that point she asked me to wait a minute, and said she would be right back.......

For the record, I'm not satisfied.
Good-night.

Sorry for the delay, sometimes there can be a delay in responding. This is especially true with uncommon cars such as Saab.

By ignition shutting down- does this mean you have confirmed no spark to the spark plugs during failure? If not do so during the failure period and get back to me.

Also, how long does it take to restart?

I wasn't satisfied with the responce time and so indicated. Please credit my credit card for $18.00.

1995 SAAB 9000 Ignition System   

I have rebuilt the 234 engine for a 1995 aero after the engine went. it cut off after on the hi way after the engine refused to cut-out when it reached 4500 rpm. The sprocket for the balance chain system had to be replaced.Now, the engine is back togather 'crank' but do not start....could it be the trionic ECU. 1995 Saab Aero.

Are you getting reference voltage to sensors.

Is there spark, fuel pump, injector pulse?

Yes

1994 SAAB 9000 Fuel System   

Large fuel leak from the rigid fuel lines in the area behind the engine and against the front of the cabin/tank. It is not leaking from the rubber hoses that lead from the fuel lines to the injector manifold, or at those two connections. What are my replacement options? Are these one piece rigid lines that lead all the way back to the fuel tank area?

You can use steel lines OR braided lines, it really depends on availability at your local parts store. Might as well go (at least) from the fuel filter to the engine. No need to have to do it more than once. Fuel lines are burdensome to replace, especially if you don't have access to a lift so you may wish to consider having a shop replace the lines. Alternatively take your time and check thoroughly for leaks afterwards.

Be very careful with fuel that has already leaked. The vapors can spread to ignition source without warning...

Thanks for the input. I did learn from a Saab enthusiast website that some folks have replaced the last two or three feet of the steel fuel lines closest to the engine with fuel injection hose. My concern that the hose would not lay up against the "aquarium" (false firewaall) as snugly as the steel lines, which have retaining clips to hold them in place. Your thoughts?

Thanks,

Alan

In this case you would need to secure the hoses to aquarium. It is critical to make sure the hoses do not rub through as the consequences are obvious. You would also want to protect the hoses from heat in the area (I'm sure you are familiar with the shield that go over hoses/wires to protect them).

Let me know what you decide to do, remember safety first.

1993 SAAB 9000 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

hi. i bought my saab used, 2 years ago. since then i've dealt with several minor electrical problems. as of about 2 weeks ago my car alarm and flashers have started going off randomly while i'm driving down the road. to turn off the alarm i have to turn off the car and lock/unlock the door using my key, only to have go off again minutes later. is there anyway way i could just disable the alarm by removing a fuse or snipping a wire? help me please.

Factory alarm? Probably an aftermarket one.
Look under the dash (steering column ares) for a black box about 4 inches square, that has non Saab markings. They usually have an in line blue 15 amp fuse, located near the box.

1992 SAAB 9000 Fuel System   

Well my check engine light was on. So I disconnet the battery. When reconnet is did not want to start back up. It turn over a few time it act like it was get any gas. I change my fuel filter and it still not want to idle right. now the olny thing it do just turn over but it want start.

The ceck engine light came on to indicate that there was a problem, there was also a strong possibility that a code was stored in the car PCM and this code can still be retrieved as the problem still exists.
Your problem can be anything from a bab crank sensor to a bad fuel pressure regulator and any thing in between.
Can you hook up a PCM scanner to your car and get the codes?
You will also want to do a fuel pressure test to see if fuel is getting to the manifold.
Which engine do you have?

I have the 2.3L engine not a turbo

Ok can you do a fuel pressure test, and test for spark so we can know what to attack on this problem next?

Ok I check the fuel pressure and that find. My sparkplugs are new and I replace them .

but are you gettig a spark to the plugs while attempting to start the car?
How strong of a spark and is it aching to the plugs?

IT start up but will not idle off to let it stay running to idle off

you will want to check or replace your Idle speed stabilizer[idle control valve].
check your air mass boot for leaks , this has to be sealed completely or it will allow car to die at idle.

make sure that your air cleaner filter is clean.
What was the reading on the fuel injector test while running? how many PSI was being read?

Ok but how do I do a fuel injector test while running?

My mistake of wording , I need to know the results of the fuel pressure test [not fuel injector]

Ok I will check it tomrrow and get back with you on that ok. You have give me alot of things to look at. Thank you for your help. It a good car and i want to plan on keep it. So let you know what happen. Thank again.

Ok I have check out my idle control valve an it seen to stay open when the car is turn off. It sound like it run all by it self. Is that good or bad

no it should be closed when car is cold chect the operation of it when power or vacume is applied that it opens and closes correctly.

So do you think I sould replace it with a new Idle control valve and because my car will try to start and it at like it not get gas, and you can hear the idle valve keep noise when I switch car to off. Little it run by it self.

could you please explain that again i am missing a few points in your reply.
you need to physically make the ICV work so you can see that it is doing what it is supposed to do.

Ok how will I physically make ICV work. When I start up the car it turn over it start up and quick cut off. It like it chock out. It do it ever time I start it up. My pipe under car shake and sometime it would run but if I tap on the gas it cut off.

attemp to start it with the ICV fully closed
it is electrically operated and if you apply power to it you can hear the click and see the activator work.

So do you want me to un plug it and then try to start the car? I can hear it working when I give it power but when I cut the car off i still hear it clicking or runing like it still open or like it have a moter inside the part.

yes that would be something that you can check to see if it runs differently.
After this you may need to scan the PCM for trouble codes. This should be a dead givaway as to the problem area in most cases because the check engine light did come on, other wise we are just second guessing a lot of causes with similer symptoms.

Ok I thank you for your help. But will there be any else I could be looking for beside what we have talk about. Because i don't want to keep put in mony on parts.

That is why you should find out what code was stored in the PCM .
This is the way to save money and that is the first thing you want to do before starting to replace parts.
The PCM is set up for this preliminary type of test.

So where do you buy one of them code read for that model car?

These can be bought at most auto part stores or online.
You do not neccesarily have to buy it .
You can go to an auto zone of a reputable auto-parts store and they will scan your car as a courtesy free of charge and give you the codes if there are any to record, this is normally affirmative once the check engine light has come on even if it has gone out the code will still be there.
You can just go there and work out a time with them.

I have try at autozone they tell me that don't code read for that years. so I guess will go on line to buy one.

It is always a good tool to have especially if you plan on keeping a vehicle.
That will be a good investment, it will also save you the costly times of troubleshooting in mosrt cases

Again thank you for your help and I will hope that you can help me again later.

you are welcome.

1992 SAAB 9000 Ignition System   

I'v got a 1992 9000cd, it wont start, it turns over but wont start up. There is no spark to the spark plugs or to the DI cassette, I checked with a circut tester. I have tried replaceing the crank shaft position sensor and have gotten no start. Also I checked to see if it was getting fuel and it is. I am completely stuck and have no idea what it could be. I would guess the DI cassette but if that was bad, there would still be power to the harness leading up to it?iwouldnt there? Please help I'v got no
> idea
> what to do!

Could be one of many things:
oil level low? There are sensors for that.
alarm/immobilizer problem?
ignition switch problem? Test with volt/ohm meter.
IAC (idle air control) requires cleaning
Airflow meter wiring dirty/damp?Clean with CRC contact cleaner or similar.
Have it tested for codes.

i pulled out the jetronic from under the hood near the fire wall and took the cover off that. is there anyway to test it to see if it works? or anything i can do with it?

No, the dealers have very expensive equipment to test, so there is not much to do except clean the connections.

how do I test the ignition switch?

and where is it?

With a volt ohm-meter and a wiring diagram. Should be simple as there are usually a Pos+, a IGN, an ACC and a Start terminal.

Ok I'v tried all of that and everything is good,and it still wont start what now?

If the crankshaft position sensor has been replaced, then the culprit is probably the computer itself.
There is a series of books from a gentleman called Robert Bently that might be of use or pick up a copy of a Haynes Manual for yor Saab. They have great wiring diagrams and can be purchased for as little as $15

Ok which one fuel control module,or electronic throttle control module?

Electronic, you said it was getting fuel

1992 SAAB 9000 All Part Groups   

I was wondering if 1993 saab 9000 ce engine compnents are compatable with 1992 saab 9000 cd parts? Spacificly the DI cassette and the electric throttle control module?

55 561 132, Ignition Cassette is listed for all 90-98 9000 models. 88 22 348, Throttle Body is listed for 91-94 9000 turbo models. 91 07 616, Throttle Body is for the 91-94 non-turbo. 93 cassette will fit on a 92 engine with wiring harness kit 93 21 787. The other way will not work without spicing wires.

I dont really understand what all those numbers mean but I just wanted to know if I buy a 1[redacted] CE if the DI cassette and the electronic throttle control module will work with my 1[redacted] CD?

If both cars are turbo, you can exchange the throttle bodies. You can also put a 93 DI cassette on the 92 with the wiring kit 93-21-787 from Saab.

They are both non turbo, will the throttle modules still be interchangeable?

YES. Non-turbos match.

Will a 1993 900 match a 1[redacted] ? engine parts wise?

or a 1991 900?

The engines are different, parts will NOT interchange between the 900 and the 9000.

1[redacted] 9000 non-turbo engines are identical.

Will a saab 900 DI cassette work on my saab 9000?

No, it is not the same.

Iv got a 92 saab 9000 2.3l di car. The car isnt running on all cylinders, i believe its running on only 2 and 3. i got new resistor plugs gapped them i flushed the radiator and there was no oil in the coolent. what else can i do or how can i fix this?

Check the compression on all 4 cylinders. They should all be within 10% of one another. If that is OK, see if all 4 fuel injectors are squirting fuel. If that is OK, determine if the cassette is firing all 4 spark plugs.

1992 SAAB 9000 Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

My 92 Saab turbo slowly looses brake fluid. I first thought it was the clutch because I could see fluid at the clutch slave cylinder. I have since replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders but still have the leak. I know that in older American cars when the brake master cylinder starts to go bad, the fluid will travel into the brake booster and be consumed by the vacuum of the engine. Can Saabs braking system do the same thing... because I can not find any fluid extior of the system.

Thanks for the help,
Larry

How long does it take to lose the fluid?

I doubt you had two master cylinders bad and leaking into the brake booster, assuming no change with the replacement.

What I recommended is topping of the master cylinder. Now firmly depress the brake, repeat many times. Now check for the leak. This will put the system under high pressure leak will be more visible (vs normal braking pressure).

Note- this the leak may get (permanently) worse during the test, be prepared to fix the problem before driving again. This is a much better way to find the problem vs in an emergency situation when the brakes are needed most.

Douglas, Thanks for the reply,

A little more history for you, 2 months ago the clutch petal went to the floor and stayed there. Every thing I read and the local Saab mechanic told me that in Saabs when this happens it’s the clutch slave cylinder, so I replaced that. Then 3 weeks later the clutch went to the floor again, now everyone told me it was the clutch slave cylinder going bad so I replaced it. Got everything back together and drove it for 3-4 days and then the clutch went out again, only this time the fluid had drained down in the reservoir to the level of the pickup tube for the clutch. At that point, I thought I had not tightened a bleed valve or maybe a hose let loose, but I have not been able to find anything that shows signs of fluid.

Because Saabs share the same reservoir for both the clutch and brakes, I am now looking at the brakes as possibly being the problem

Right now I loose about ½” per day from the reservoir, no matter if the engine is running or not (i.e. car parked or being driven). I have done the brake test with the engine off and find no external leaks. I checked all slave cylinders (i.e. calipers) and all fittings and still find no wet spots.

I admit my knowledge of ABS systems with vacuum booster and hydraulic modulators is not what it should be, I am more used to the older American style braking systems so I may just be confusing myself.

Looking forward to hearing from you,
Larry

Brake fluid has a unique smell/stickness, inpspect the vacuum hose for traces of the fluid. The reservoir itself is not leaking by chance?

Any change in fluid level if you repeatedly pump the clutch?

Douglas,
I have to go out of town for a few days. I am going to let the car sit with a piece of card board under it to see if I can find a general direction under the car where the fluid is going.

Letting it sit for about 5 days will also show if it is the brakes or clutch by how for the fluid goes down in the reservoir. If it stops at the outlet for the clutch, then it should be in the clutch system, if it goes past the clutch outlet then it's in the brake system.

If all else fails I'm going to put the pressure bleeding system to it and push out the 1-1/2 pints of fluid.... And if that don't work, a stick of dynamite should do the job... :)

Larry

Douglas,

The car has been sitting for the last few days, during that time the fluid dropped 2" in the resivoir 1" past the outlet for the clutch system and I do not see any wet spots on the ground.

When I got in the car to start working on it I pressed the brake peddel about 5 times and then on the sixth time I could see brake fluid squirting out of the top of the resivoir. So I started the car and watched the fluid drain down in the resivoir, turn the car off and again pressed the brakes about 5 times and started to see fluid squirt out of the top of the resivoir.

Larry

Sorry I was without computer access for a while.

What have you found up until now?

Welcome back Douglas..

I have done nothing with the car since my last email other than look into the price of accumulators ($450.00). I was hopping between the both of us, we could figure out if it was the accumulator or something else. I am tiered of dumping hundreds of dollars into my kids car that is only worth a couple grand.

Larry

So it cannot be the clutch system and is not coming out any of the brake lines, calipers, or anywhere else past the abs unit?

That is correct, and the ABS system on a Saab is a nightmare.
My assumtion is that it is the accumilator, but that Idea dosn't make sence to me. The accumilator has 3400 pounds of pressure in it; so how can it draw fluid into it?

1988 SAAB 9000 Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

Initially, the heat was always on, no mater what temp the climate control was set. It's winter here, so I figured I'd wait 'til spring to fix. Now, the temp is cool no matter where climate control is set. For a short time the other day, after car was shut off and allowed to cool....I restarted and had heat again. Then, I started playing with climate control to cool off, and stayed cool again. Changed thermostat. Didn't help. What's up?!?!?

TG

you may have a faulty climate control head. or a mode door actuator for temp blend may be faulty. Have those parts looked at by a certified ac repair shop that you trust. If I can help more, you can email me direct at [redacted] upon accepting this response. Good luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

Thanks.

TG

your welcome