Saturn SC2

2002 Saturn SC2 Ignition System   

Sometimes, it starts...the key turns in the ignition, other times -Not. Keys have been recut, ignition cylinder replaced under warranty....no weight on key ring(some whack e doodle told me I had too many keys...so I just now have Saturn key on fob)

Did the new ignition/lock cylinder help for while?

Will it turn if you push the key in harder?

Try wiggling the steering wheel and shift lever, does this make a difference?

Yes, the new ignition helped for a very short while...so did recut keys....yes, we jiggle steering wheels....but it seems to be security feature...the lock that won't let me past a certain point to the "real ignition". Can you disable the lock mechanism easily? Also, we have noticed if the wheels are straight...we have an easier time starting it....man, I am so fed up with SATURN! What do you think?

1995 Saturn SC2 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The fan will not come on in my 95 Saturn SC2. I've checked the sensor and it is functional. I checked that there are volts, and amps, flowing through the connection at the sensor. It used to be that the Fan worked with the A/C, now it never comes on unless the fan is powered directly from the battery. How do you check the PCM and the relay without hooking it to a computer?

Hi,
You need a wiring diagram for this and to perform manual tests.
It is a good ideea to replace the fan motor relay,it is not very costly,and you save time.Also,it is quite possible the the A/C system it is low on freon.The A/C auto technician can charge the system.
Regards,
Peter

Well, I replaced the relay and that wasn't it. What I'm looking for here is a series of tests I can perform to establish exactly which part is the problem.

Hi,

You need the cooling system electric fan wiring diagram.You can see the system how works and diagnose easily.But you must know how to read the diagram and how to perform the electrical tests.
Peter

1993 Saturn SC2 Engine Won't Start  

I just currently noticed that my cylinders have motor oil in them and to much oil in my engine, should I have them cleaned out or replace my spark plugs

I Want to replace the spark plugs my self and I need to know how,please inform me

Why is your oil level too high? If just overfilled, shame on you... don't do that again.. it is really bad for the engine. Next, replace the plugs, they cost about 10.00 for the set and all you have to do is with the engine cold (room temp) follow the spark plug wire down to the plug, give a twist and pull and you should see the plug. I believe that your plugs are 5/8" but they may be 13/16" (verifiy that when you buy them) you will need to get a spark plug socket and ratchet remove the plug, check the air gap on the replacement plug and reinstall until snug then about 1/8th turn, replace the wire. Trash the old plugs. Not a hard job. Good luck. AL

please give me some feedback like what to do

What kind of feedback do you need?

OK my cylinder heads have oil in them what should I do to clean them out

so let me ask.. did you really overfill the engine and that is where the excessive oil came from or do you know where the extra oil is from?

yes I over filled it and that is where the oil came from, I have a problem with my car burning oil to fast so I have over conpensated for that problem.

Now I got it... this is easy... when you lowered the oil level the oil that was trapped in the cylinders should have drained back into the oil pan.. the piston rings do not provide 100% seal and given about 30 minutes the oil will drain back down.. or you can drain the cylinders instantly by removing all 4 spark plugs and placing a rag over the spark plug holes rotate the engine.. the oil will fly all over and your cylinder will be free of oil. Now lets talk about the oil consumption... how many miles does the engine have?? and r u sure you are burning and not leaking the oil out?? al

my car has approximately 131,000 miles and I drive long distances per day

131K mile is not that much if the engine has had normal oil changes. Even if the engine has been abused you should not have to replace more than one quart for each 3000 miles driven.. more than this and you need to look for leaks.. front and rear oil seals are bad places to leak from and you probably dont have the skills to do the work.. best way to find leaks is get some GUNK engine cleaner and take the car to a drive in car wash.. the self serve kind.. leave the engine running and spray that junk everywhere.. spray the engine down then start looking for new wet spots.. Al

1993 Saturn SC2 Drive Train / Driveline   

1993 SC2 WITH 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANS- AFTER IT GETS HOT CAR JERKS/STUTTERS WHEN IN GEAR UNDER A LOAD, ESPECIALLY IN 3RD, 4TH AND 5 TH. ANYWHERE FROM 1500 TO 2500 RPM. DOESN'T DO THIS ALL THE TIME AND JERKING VARIES FROM ALMOST NOTHING TO STRONG.INSTALLED NEW LOWER MOUNTS (2 ON DRIVERS SIDE, ONE ON PASS SIDE). TOP MOUNT SEEMS FINE. TRANSAXLE FLUID CHANGED. MILEAGE IS APPROX 133K. CAN'T SEEM TO FIND OUT WHAT IS GOING ON HERE.

Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?

It sounds to me as if there is a powertrain management problem (computer/sensor/etc) that is making the engine jumpy. Overtime this could wear the mounts out.

No check engine lights come on. Car runs great until it gets hot (after approx 7-8 miles). When the jerking/jumping starts, there is no loss in engine RPM. I don't think it is the clutch as it does not do this when cold (is this a good assumption?). I've read about clutch/slave cylinder issues but it seems that if these go, the gears won't engage at all.

Correct, the clutch stops the transmission input shaft from spinning so the gears can be shifted.

I assume the engine rpm is jumping although the engine never stalls. This may be a sensor problem, TPS (throttle position sensor) or load/air sensor (MAF or MAP depending on engine size).

Do you get any smoke from the exhaust, noteably black smoke when the probem exists?

No smoke (of any color)when this happens.Nothing seems out of the ordinary when this happens.

Also, the engine RPM doesn't change. The feeling is like when you are accelerating from a stop but don't give it enough gas, and the car jerks/chugs until you get up to speed. In my case, this jerk/chug happens when I'm at 30-40 mph, at a steady cruise, in a higher gear, just minding my own business.

Try revving the engine from 1[redacted] rpm while parked (in neutral) to see if you can recreate the problem.

Do you have any test equipment?

Can not duplicate problem when car is not moving (revs and idles fine in neutral). I have some limited test equipment- depends on what needs testing.