Subaru Impreza

2007 Subaru Impreza Engine Malfunction When starting When cold

were can i find the coolent temperature senor on a 1995 subaru impreza wrx jap import thanks

It should be located in the intake manifold.

Use the following link for an image- Copy and Paste into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1c/61/a[redacted] d801c61a6.jsp

2004 Subaru Impreza Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have had my impreza outback sport for about 2 years. so far i have replaced bulbs for 2 tail lights, turn signal, both headlamps, and also replaced a headlamp assembly. today, both head lamp bulbs are out. checked fuses, they are fine. is this common? what is the problem?

Several things come to mind:
Discount store type bulbs have short lifetime.I have experienced this several times.
Have the alternator tested for output voltage. A higher than normal voltage will shorten the bulb lifespan.
Also ensure there are no cracks or stonechips in the lens.
When installing new front bulbs, ensure you do not touch the glass part. If unsure, clean bulb with alcohol swab.
Also, driving on rough roads can shorten their life.

the bulbs in the headlamps are sylvania silverstars, and i am very careful not to touch the bulbs, but wear gloves just in case. what about the generator? i'm thinking some kind of electrical problem, but i'm not educated enough to troubleshoot. bad luck w/ my local mechanic and my dealership; we have trust issues! =)

An accurate volt meter attached to the battery or alternator (enerator)will see if you are getting excessive voltage charging, or voltage spikes.Anything in excess of 13.5 volts would be a concern.,

2000 Subaru Impreza Fuel System   

After fueling my 2000 Impreza RS to max fill last night, I came out to a puddle located just in front of the driver's rear tire. A fresh piece of cardboard in place shows a constant drip. Figuring it was a temperature/fuel fill issue, I reset the cap to "burp" the tank pressure, to no help. Would this be a cracked fuel line, clogged filter, or something to do with the emissions/cat. convertor?
Thanks!

Hi, I recommend first that the fuel lines be inspected for cracks/splits. There are sections of the lines that are often rubber fuel hose that connect to steel lines.

When the tank is filled to the max a gasket (usually an "O" ring) must seal the fuel pump to the tank or fuel will overflow from the access hole in the tank where the pump is mounted.

A clogged filter or the catalytic will not factor here. There is a small chance the emissions charcoal canister may be fuel saturated but I don't believe it is mounted in the area you describe.

Roger

2000 Subaru Impreza All Part Groups   

Our Impreza won't start when it's cold but not really cold, the teens and 20s. It'll start in the afternoon when things warm up. It's got a fresh, new battery. All of the lights come on strong. There's no clicking, just nothing when you turn the key. I've tried jumping it, even running my truck connected to it for 10 minutes. No go. We've had a mechanic check for drains on the battery, nothing there. Whenever we get it to the shop, it starts. We live at a higher elevation than the shop and it's warmer where it is so we're thinking that those few degrees might make the difference. We've even left it overnight at the shop so they could cold start it at 7 a.m. And it starts for them. Any ideas of what our certified Subaru mechanic can look for?

Hello, Reality is if it starts every time for the mechanic it will pass every test he has. The key is to duplicate the complaint.

I looked but found no Technical Service Bulletins on cold start issues. Just one on cold driveability.

Do you have a 12 volt test light or a multimeter? Can you make a couple of tests when the condition is present? We just want to know where the needed voltage is being interupted before it gets to the starter.

Is this a 2.2L, or a 2.5L engine? Auto, or standard transmission?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, are you there? I'd like to help you if I can.

In addition to my earlier message I want to mention that thr battery cable connections need to be clean and tight at both ends of each cable. A poor ground could cause the condition you describe.

Also, I want to suggest to ask your Subaru technician if he called the Technical Support Line that Subaru offers their technicians for tough problem solving. If there is a trend for the condition your car has it may be on record with Subaru.

Thanks,

Roger

The Subaru is a standard transmission. I'm not sure if it's 2.2 or 2.5. I'll see if I can figure it out.

The battery cables are clean and tight. I think I've got a voltage meter somewhere and will test. Is there any specific place where I poke the meter?

I'm pretty sure that my mechanic has not called a Subaru support line. I can mention it to him but he seems very knowledgeable. (I'm just grasping at straws by posting here, looking for things I can do at home while it's not working, such as now.)

Some more information that may be helpful. We've had the car since we got it new 10 years ago. This is the first time this has happened and we've always lived in the same place. This started during a record cold snap where temperatures dropped about 20 degrees below normal (to about 25 below). The battery was a little old so I bought a new one to replace it. I kept it in the house so it would be warm and then one morning, I swapped batteries. It still didn't work. Around this time, the clock would reset every time we turned the car off and the dome light quit working (the bulb was fine). So the mechanic rewired things because apparently one of the wires wasn't working. Everything works now, except the car starting when it's cold. But maybe there's a wiring thing somewhere...

Another option is that we live in the country so the vehicle has had rodent damage, which we've always fixed. The mechanic hasn't noticed any this time but maybe there's something hidden somewhere that got gnawed...

All right. I can send you a wiring diagram for your review. All I need is your email address please.

Will the car start if you bypass (disconnect and jumper) the clutch switch on the bracket above the clutch pedal?

There is also a neutral position switch on the left side of the transmission that has to work. This switch has 12 volts from the ignition switch (in the start position) on a Grn/Blk wire and if in neutral the switch would be closed and voltage would output from the switch on a Blk/Red wire to the engine controls system.

If these two switches work properly the starter interlock relay located on the right side of the steering column will energize sending 12 volts to the starter solenoid on the Wht/Red wire to turn on the starter.

Roger

1996 Subaru Impreza Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

Continuing intermittent problem, Engine Management System shows fault when starting from warm and will not fire. Problem clears when engine allowed to cool right down. Fault shown is Air-flow meter, which has been replaced together with Crank sensor and Temperature sensor. Happens once every 2-3 weeks (about one in 20 times when engine warm). Runs fault free otherwise. Any ideas?

From the info you have given
I need to be clear on one thing before I can address your issue further
When you say will not fire do you mean no spark?,no starter?,does it continue to crank witout staring?
As many details as possible will hep me to try to help diagnose your problem witout quessing or giving you a generic answer

The engine cranks without firing. It appears that the engine management system has disabled the ignition, presumably to 'protect' the engine from whatever fault it believes exists.

From what you described, you problem could be the coil module, the cam angle sensor

When you can unplug the camshaft position sensor and computer will go to default or limp mode which will allow the car to start if that is the problem and likewise on the other components
it would be best to have the car scanned for codes and see what has been stored in the computer so we can go from there.

Is this different to the crank sensor that has already been replaced? As I said, mechanics have already checked the system codes and replaced the parts said to be at fault. I believe them to be competent and feel that, without doubting your expertise in any way, I could be simply re-traceing work already performed. I guess I was hoping for someone to say 'I had this problem and it was xyz'. I would be very hesitant to start replacing further parts on a 'it could be' basis as I have already spent about £600 ($1,000) without getting anywhere.

yes the camshaft position sensor is different from the crank sensor
are ther any more codes stored in the computer?

Hi,
Sorry about the delay, I had to contact my garage about your reply. Seemingly there is no camshift postion sensor on my vehicle, these were not installed on those cars at that time (1996 Turbo Model). I feel I might be stuck on waiting for the problem to get worse to make it easier to diagnose. The fault has not repeated itself in the last 10 days.
Regards.

Hello sir
I apologize for the info on the cps
the haynes manual that I was using is vahge
and there are some borderline parts that aare hard to specify based on the info that they do allow
I hope it all works out

1995 Subaru Impreza Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Nothing happens when I turn the key. Tried to jump start and no luck. Tried a new battery and still nothing. Even the dome lights fail to come on. It will not come out of park, even with the key turned on. I've verified ground to the battery. Both battery cables look fully intact.

Hi, Take the battery cable connections loose and look for corrosion that may be hidden. Reconnect the cables.

With a volt meter please measure the battery voltage. Is it 12 VDC?

Roger

Sorry, but I don't have a volt meter. It's a new battery. I can't be certain it's good, but a jump start failed to even light the dome light, when the old battery was installed. I can go buy a volt meter if necessary, but is there any other way to troubleshoot?

Without even a dome light coming on, won't start, no sound when turning the key....

I have to start somewhere. What power source was used to jump start the car? Did you try to start the car in Park and in Neutral?

Do instrument panel warning lights come on when the key is on?

Have you checked all fuses?

Roger

Fuses are all in tact, even the fused link is in tact. No dash lights come on at all. It has a safety feature that prevents you from putting the car in neutral without the brake and the key. I'm guessing that it's a sensor that requires power, because I can't get the car out of park, even with the key on and the brake pressed.

I don't think the starter has ever been changed in this car. Could a bad solenoid break the circuit without warning? It was running fine last night, but not today.

Turn the key from Lock to the Off position. Will the gearshift move to Neutral now?

A starter solenoid can't keep the rest of the car from powering up..lights, horn...something should work. I can't understand if the battery is new and the connections are clean and tight why nothing will come on.

Roger

The gear shift won't move in any key position. I don't have a volt meter, like I said, but I do have a test light, if that will help. The test light comes on when I hook it directly to the battery. It does the same on the old battery.

Do you have an Owner's manual? Does it show a way to override the shift lock?

If the test light is bright thats a start. Does it light when checking the fuses in the I/P Fuse box when the key is on?

Can you get to the starter? Try having a helper hold the key in the start position and test the small wire that energizes the solenoid for voltage. Does it light the test light? If so, have the helper turn the key to start when you say so and strike the side of the starter with a hammer to see if you can get it to work. It may have enough wear on the bushings that the armature is cocked or the brushes have stuck.

Roger

Thanks for your help. I think we figured it out. I bypassed the wire that goes from the batt to the starter with a jumper cable and things started to work. Whoever worked on this car last didn't bother to clean the red paint off the pos post connector where it contacts the wires. After scraping the paint off, there was less resistance, and the circuit was able to complete. I guess it had just enough corrosion to stop the slight connection thats been there the last couple years. Anyway, thanks again for all your help.

Kevin

To close this question please ckick on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1995 Subaru Impreza All Part Groups   

95 impreza 2.2; always starts for first trip of day, subsequent trips-intermittently won't start right away. Always starts after 1-2 cycles of waiting 5 minutes. Temp sensor replaced. Fuel pressure bleedback trick seemed to work for a few days (turn key to on- for 4 secs, then off-repeat 3x then attempt to start engine) but not now. Getting worse.

I am thinking that the fuel pump is going soon. If you have had it scanned for codes and none show, that would be my first guess.

The fuel pump has been changed. Things seemed to improve and the car was driven to/from work for a week withuot a problem (my work involved driving to peoples homes all day-so there were a lot of starts and stops) After that week was us, the problem started again. The issue is the same as before with the car starting up fine at the first start of the day and then subsequet starts being not consistent. (and when car does not start right away-if we give it 5-10 minutes, it always starts up again and drives fine) Joe

1995 Subaru Impreza Fuel System   

My 95 Impreza has this nasty habit of not starting intermitently. I saw on you site that I should try and cycle the key on and off 4-5 times without turning the engine over. This helped, also, in the past, it has helped to let out the pressure in the tank by unscrewing the gas cap and waiting a few minutes. I have also noticed the "check engine" light on a few times and it goes away when I let out the pressure in the tank (usually after 10-20 miles of driving).
How do I fix pressure being leaked back into the tank?
Could this be the explaination to all of my problems?
Thanks
-Tim

Fuel pressure goes from tank to engine, and excess fuel is passed back to tank via another line.The cap is sealed, not vented. Excessive tank pressure is vented via another line that goes back to the engine compartment and a charcoal canister, then back to the engine.Check this vent line for plugging or damage, and ensure charcoal canister is also not plugged. Their is a filter at the cannister,If any of this vent system is plugged, you might have a problem

Great......does the canister need to be changed periodically? What happens if this lie is somehow plugged-up?
Is this fairly common?
-Tim

Their is a filter on cannister.Cannister should be ok.If a line under the car plugged or dented from rock or something, it will not allow tank to vent excwssive pressure.Not too common, but happens.

1994 Subaru Impreza Ignition System   

i have a naturally aspirated impreza with a starting problem. there are times that my car is extremely hard to start. it could take a minute to five minutes of cranking before itll start. it seems to be mostly random but it does become more noticeable when i have to make a lot quick errands. i go somewhere, quickly run inside and come back out and the car wont start. ive also noticed that if i drive hard, shut down, and come back in about 10 minutes it wont start. other times its just completely random. when it becomes hard to start the engine make a popping sound when its trying to turn over. everything electrical seems to be ok. cranking seems to be ok. i have spark and a good battery. im leaning toward a fuel problem but everything i try to do doesnt seem to fix it. the fuel pump and filter have been changed. i know the pump is working cause i can hear it running. once the engine is started it runs great. do you have any sugestions.

Hello, First I need to tell you this is not a live chat.

The 1994 Subaru was recalled for a NO START condition related to the Crankshaft and Camshaft Sensors. Has your car been inspected for the recall eligiblility?

For a copy of the recall please advise your email address.

Roger

my email is [redacted] . im pretty sure that it hasnt been looked at for a recall. this is the first ive heard about it.

I sent the Recall info to your email. Please review it for content and contact a Sabaru Dealer for their input concerning your car by VIN number.

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

my car is a 94 coupe so the recall doesnt apply. i did go ahead and change the crank sensor. i dont have a camshaft sensor or i would have changed it too. i did this on saturday so im giving it a few days to see if its fixed. it hasnt done it since.

Here is hope for a good report.

Thanks,

Roger

just thought i would let you know that i havent had the problem since i changed the sensor. thanks for the help.

Thank you! Are we finished here?

Roger

yes were done. thanks again.

All right, to accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

1993 Subaru Impreza Fuel System   

The car has an intermittent starting problem. When it doesn't start, it cranks and has good spark, but there is no power at the fuel pump.
I changed the fuel pump relay. The only change this made was that dash lights became brighter for a while.
There is a light on the dashboard that says Power. Sometimes it flickers. I don't know if this is related.
It usually doesn't start after it's been driven and parked for a while and a restart is tried, but not always.

How are you checking for power to the fuel pump, by listening to the pump OR testing with a voltmeter at the fuel pump connector?

Also, do you have fuel injector pulse during the no-start?

Both. I didn't hear the pump prime when I turned the ignition on. Thinking that the pump might be bad, even though it was only a couple months old. I pulled the pump. It checked out fine. I checked the connector at the pump and got 0 volts. That's why I changed the Pump relay.
I didn't bother to check the injector pulse, because when the pump works, the motor runs.

You checked voltage at the connector and got 0 volts with the engine craking?

Yes. I also ran a 12 volt jumper wire to the pump with the plug disconneeted and it ran fine.

I also checked the connector under the backseat to see if it was tight, and it was.

Okay, next check is to feel the relay and see if it clicks when the vehicle will not start. Practice when the vehicle will start then test again during the no-start period.

Copy the following link into your address bar-

http://www.autozone.ro/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0[redacted] 210

This will take you to wiring diagrams for your car. Click on the 'Engine Control Wiring' diagram for your Year/Model/Engine to view a diagram for the fuel pump relay.

According to the wiring diagram. It seems that another relay turns on the fuel pump relay. I'm assuming that that's the main relay. I'll go check to see which relays click when energized

I was looking at the wrong wiring diagram.
When I turn the key on, the fuel pump relay clicks on then off like it's priming, but the fuel pump doesn't turn on. I disconnected the main relay and the fuel pump relay didn't click anymore.
Looking at this wiring diagram it looks like there's nothing between the relay and the fuel pump except the connector and wires. I am going to check in the connector at the fuel pump for power, when the relay clicks on again.
Get back to you later

If you still have the old relay, you should be able to remove the cover and jumper the relay for test purposes. The cover may be damaged slightly as they can be difficult to remove (use caution). This will make testing much easier.

Note- by jumper I mean manually activating the relay. Do so with the Key On.

1993 Subaru Impreza Heating / Cooling System   

Hi, on my way to work this morning i didn't realize it but my cars temp guage was all the way on H. When i got out the overflow was opened from all the pressure in the radiator. So today after work, i checked the oil, tranny fluid, power steering, and radiator and everything is full. i dont know why my car would be overheating. on the way home it overheated again and i had to stop. when i stopped i found ou that the fan on the right s Thanks.

Hello, The fan on the right side.......what? Does not work?

If radiator (main) cooling fan does not operate, check the 20-amp fuse for radiator cooling fan and 10-amp fuse for a/c system. If a fuse is blown, repair short circuit and replace fuse. If fuses are okay, go to next step.

Turn ignition on. Using a volt meter,check for voltage at fan motor connector Yellow/Red wire terminal. If no voltage is present go to next step. If voltage is present, ensure the fan motor connector Black wire is grounded. If Black wire is grounded, replace fan motor. If Black wire is not grounded, repair open in Black wire.

If you get this far without a fix, please advise and I will send additional checks to perform.

Roger

ok so i have no volt meter, but i did check the ground and fuses and everything there is good. i cleaned the plug for the fan motor and plugged it back in. the left fan is working, but the other fan is doing nothing still.

Diagnostics are not reliable without answers to questions whether voltage (how much) is present or not. Can you borrow a meter? If not:

Please try to jumper the left fan wiring connector temporarily to the right fan motor. It will tell us if that motor is still a good one.

Roger

ok so i ran wires from the subfan plug to the main fan plug-in, i turned on the car and ran it for a minute, only about 60 seconds, and the main fan kicked on and is working. what should i do next to fix this?

This tells us the fan motor is still good, we just have to find out why the motor isn't getting power.

Continuing the previous diagnostic proceure:

Check for voltage at main relay Yellow/Red wire terminal. If voltage exists, repair Yellow/Red wire. If voltage does not exists, check for voltage at main fan relay wiring harness (bus bar) and go to next step.

If voltage does not exist, repair wire harness (bus bar). If voltage exists, check if main fan relay Red/White wire is grounded. If wire is grounded, replace main fan relay. If wire is not grounded go to next step.

Check for voltage at Powertrain Control Module (PCM) wiring connector Red/Blue wire terminal. If voltage exists, replace PCM. If voltage does not exist, repair Red/Blue wire.

Roger

im getting voltage from the yellow/red wire, and the black green wire. what do i need to check next?

at the fuse, it was pulling 14 volts

Sorry for the delay. I'm trying to find a Blk/Grn wire on the diagram.

Are there two relays for each fan motor?

Please advise,

Roger

If the ignition switch is on there should be power at the Main Fan Relay 1 Red/Yel wire coming from the ignition switch.

After the engine has run long enough for the cooling fan to come on the PCM will ground the Red/Wht for the relay 1.

If you are confident the engine is warm enough that the cooling fan should be running, check to see if the Red/Wht wire is grounded. If it is, and if there is no power leaving the relay socket on the Yel/Red wire replace the Main Fan Relay 1.

Be careful not to confuse wire colors. The power coming into the Main Fan Relay 1 is a Red/Yel wire. When the relay energizes it outputs power on a Yel/Red wire to the cooling fan motor.

Roger

ok so i got both fans to work. i took the car for a drive and its overheating again. i was feeling around and the bottom hose on the radiator is cool to touch and feels empty. could this be the thermostat? the top hose is very hot.

Yes, it could be the thermostat. You will want the engine cool for that job. If you do not find the thermostat to be the problem look next for the radiator to need service or replacement.

Roger