I had someone jump start my car. When it was finally on (after a few tries) my trip odometer read Error, but the major issue is that the odometer rolled back about 4500 miles or so. Should this have happened? What can I do? The error message is now gone but the mileage is still incorrect.
Douglas -
You will have to contact Subaru, as they will have the appropriate scanner to reprogram the odometer.
Do you have any documentation that represents proper mileage?
BTW- I don't see any issues other than knowing the correct mileage.
New User -
Is this a normal occurence? I don't have "documentation" but it is a company car and I record my mileage every day. Thanks for your response!
Douglas -
Not normal at all, the idea it to make it impossible to turn back the mileage.
It may be helpful to have proof (I'd accept your record keeping as documentation, a prvious service or oil change would also suffice) that the mileage has indeed rolled back. The dealers computer may be able to recover the actual mileage.
Once again I see no problems other than knowing the exact mileage on the car.
Car is running rough with check engine light and blinking cruise control light. This happened before when the fuel cap was not put on tightly but that is not the cause this time.
New User -
Will bump price $10 if answer is satifactory
Douglas -
When the check engine light blinks it is caused by a severe misfire. Visit an Autozone or Advance and they'll check the trouble codes free of charge. Let me know which codes they find. If you are not able to drive the car, most Autozones will loan you a code reader free of charge (call ahead).
Which engine do you have?
New User -
it is a 2.5L turbo
Douglas -
Okay, have the codes read or obtain a code reader and let me know which alphanumeric trouble codes you find. Examples are P0300, P0401, etc.
After working well for months, today the engine
kept dying after just a few minutes on the road, especially when slowing down,stopping, or turning.
After several successful re-starts,the car will then not start for another 15-30 minutes; all the warning
lights go on,and there is no response at all to
turning the key-i.e. no cranking sound.
All electrical components work, like power windows.
Afew months ago I had an oxygen sensor replaced,
plus fuel filter,air filter and spark plugs.
Douglas -
Start by cleaning your battery terminals and engine/chassis grounds. It is entirely possbile that your problem is this simple. Also inspect the battery cables for signs of corrosion (it can bleed down the cables.)
Did your check engine light come on while the engine was running?
New User -
No, the check engine light did not come on while
the engine was running.
Regarding the battery cables, etc.: if it were an
electrical problem,wouldn't the lights,power windows,etc.not work?
New User -
It has been over an hour since I replied to your
question. If you don't intend on answering, please
let me know so I can ask another tech.
Thanks.
Douglas -
The lights and starter run off different sections, so by all means check these first-- including connections at the starter. You don't want to end up paying a shop for something simple.
Sorry for the delay, I lost internet (still recovering from recent weather.)
New User -
Thanks for your reply.
If you are still working,
I'd like to ask one more question:
If it were the cables etc., why would the car
start in the morning,and then even re-start when
I tried it again only 15-30 minutes after it stalled?
Wouldn't the corrupted connections stay corrupted?
Douglas -
Temperature change can cause the resistance to vary, but more often it would be consistant. Check this first the we'll move on.
Try swiching gears (from park to neutral, etc) to see if the safety switch may be the problem.
The move on to having the codes checked. Autzone and Advanve will do this is you drive in. Autozone will also loan you a code reader (fully refundable deposit) so you can check the codes. Let me which codes you find, the alphanumeric designation and not the tools/clercks interpretation of the code. Examples- P0300, P0401, etc.
Another thing that can be tried is a wiggle test. Wiggle on suspect wiring trying to recreate the problem (when not present) or eliminate the problem... Use extreme caution around moving engine parts!!! Keep it safe.
New User -
Thank you for the information.
Hopefully the problem will be resolved.
Douglas -
Yes, hopefully. Give me update later on and we'll continue as necessary.
When shifting the automatic transmission into drive, there is a delay going into 1st gear...if it is on a hill, it will not go into 1st gear unless you increase the engine's rpm's. Your thoughts? I will pay you if your answers are beneficial...
Bruce Kit -
Slipping transmissions are a sign of clutches wearing in 1 st gear. The best recourse is to take it to AAmco for a free test drive.If their diagnose does not make you happy take it to a second shop for another opinion.Hard to diagnose over the 'net.
2000 Subaru Legacy All Part Groups Happens sometimes Always
New User Asked -
Our 2000 Subaru Legacy sedan has 80,000 miles on it and has started acting up. When taking it out of Park, and placing it in Drive (or 1st or second) it will not go. It sits there as if it is in Neutral. Then, sometimes with and sometimes without coaching from the driver, it just starts to go, as if it finally woke up. We took it to the shop and they said there was no "error code" coming up. Is this a VERY BAD SIGN? Do we need to get a new transmission? How much do they cost?
Thanks for your help.
Mike & Debra Isaac
Falkeneiz -
There are 2 possibilities that I can think of
1. it could be in the shift solenoids
2. Trans fluid pressure might be weak which could be in the pump, valve body or clutch pak either way if this is the problem you might wanna replace the trans..... Have you changed your fluid every [redacted] 0 miles?
fluid pressure can be measured at most transmission repair shops. I would suggest to take the car to a trans shop in your area that you trust and have them look at it. Good luck and if I can be of more assistance you can Email me at [redacted] upon accepting this response.
WAS THERE A DEFECT IN THE 2000 ENGINE THAT CAUSES THE NEED TO KEEP RELACING THE HEAD GASKET AND CAN A 2005 ENGINE BE PUT IN A 2000? WAS THERE A RECALL ON THE 2000 ENGINE OR SOME PART OF IT?
Bruce Kit -
There appears to be no recalls on 2000 re the engine.They did have a few problems in '98 before yours built but resolved those .Most of the recalls in '00 were suspension/steering related.
Perhaps a better mechanic and better head gaskets?
New User -
THERE WAS A DEFECT IN THE COOLANT LEAKAGE FOULING THE HEAD GASKET ON THE 2000 AS WELL AS OTHER YEARS. ITS ALL OVER THE WEB PAGES. SO DID YOU ANSWER THE QUESTION ABOUT PUTTING A 2005 ENGINE IN THE 2000 CAR?
Roger -
Hi, I read through your dialog and I wondered did you learn about the cooling system conditioner that a service campaign calls for? It is supposed to address the head gasket failure issue.
My research shows the 2005 year model to have the 2.5L engine to have a choice of low emissions or without low emissions. The computers for the engine are different and so will be the wiring harness.
Should you find that the mounting of the 2005 engine to fit the 2000 year model I expect you would need the 2005 year model engine control harness and computer that fits/runs the engine as well.
As a mechanic to best answer the compatibility of different year model engines to a specific year model vehicle I rely on the software/books that salvage yards use to market their inventory.
If you would like the engine controls wiring harness schematics or the recall campaign info to define what I'm talking about, please advise the email address or a fax number to where I may send the info to.
It would help if you knew if the engine you want to use is with/without low emissions.
Starting the car most of the time is OK but when the weather gets very cold it will not ignite. There is a new battery. The engine cranks fine but does not start.
Douglas -
You will have to determine if spark or fuel is being lost during the no-start period.
Also, how cold are the temperatures when the problem occurs?
It would also be nice to check the trouble codes to see if the PCM (computer) has detected a problem. Autozone and Advance Auto will check the codes free of charge. Let me know which, if any, codes they find. Note- Make sure they check for 'Pending' codes too.
New User -
I don't have a way to check if it is fuel or spark that is missing, yet. It is when the temperatures get into the low 20's or the teens before the problem happens.
Douglas -
Okay, have the trouble codes checked and we'll go from there. You may have a problem with a temperature sensor, we'll see if the computer is reporting any problems with them.
New User -
OK I will have to get the car started to have the codes checked. I'm not sure there will be any report since it does not indicate there is trouble.
It will be a couple of days before this can be taken care of so I will reply later on what has been discovered.
Thanks
Douglas -
Some diagnostics are critical to perform.
Most Autozone stores will loan you a code reader (for a fully refundable deposit), this would let you check the codes before you get the car started.
When the problem is present-
Are you hearing the fuel pump kick on when you initially turn the key on and during engine cranking, as you normally do? Also the normal array of relays clicking, etc.
Car has electropneumatic suspension. Recently the warning light started to flicker and the car sunk in to what looks like a really sport ylowered suspension. The warning light comes and goes, but the car is permanently lowered and does not go to the high position when selected. It is naturally extremely stiff to drive.
Roger -
Hello, Pneumatic means air, so the system must have an air leak bigger than the system's air compressor can keep up with. Since you state the warning light flickers ,one can expect the fuses related to the system are good.
There are air lines from the compressor to each air shock/strut. One of the lines may have been disconnected or broken by road debris. One of the shock/struts may have a bad seal. The compressor may be too weak to inflate the normal pressure.
You need a good visual inspection of the system with the vehicle on a lift so you can see everything. It can be as simple as a fitting, or as scary as new shocks/struts or a compressor.
1999 Subaru Legacy All Part Groups Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
vehicle speed sensor
New User -
I have a defective Vehicle Speed Sensor. The Vehicle Speed Sensor is part of a wiring harness which runs from the back of the engine and down through the transmission. There are also three external sensors which attach outside of the transmission. I have already unclipped the harness from the engine side and unclipped the sensors inside the transmission pan. The problem is that one of the three sensors is located along side the transmission, about 12-14inches above, in a narrow (2 inch) gap, at an odd angle. Is there some special tool (snake like ratchet set or???) that I can use to get at it? How do I get it out and then worse yet, replace it with the new one when it is so hard to reach?
Thanks,
Troy
Les -
Hi Troy;
There should be a metal clip on it. Try pulling away from the connector. Les
One day I noticed that my front and rear parking lights wouldn’t turn off even when the engine is off and the key is out of the ignition. I checked all the fuses and relays. I found the fuse that turns the lights off but the fuse is fine and does not seem to be the problem. I don’t want to spend tons of money on a specialist if I can buy the part and fix it myself.
Sterlingfixer -
There is a rocker switch on the top of the steering column that turns the park lights on and off. Look for this behind the steering wheel.
New User -
Hey what do you know? Where did that switch come from? It probably would have helped if I had the manual. I’ve never paid attention to, or used that switch since I bought the car. Thanks for the help.
Signed,
Slightly embarrassed.
Sterlingfixer -
Don't feel bad, I took a steering column down and rewired it, then found the switch.
My running lights stay on after the car is off and all other lights are off.
macconeck -
check your relays under the hood and pull the relay for the lights to determine if they tun off
if they do then you may have a stuck relay and it will need to be replaced
if the relay is fine then your light switch may be malfunctioning
I hope this helps
I have a 1991 subaru Legacy wagon. Its a 2.2L. I just changed the plugs and wires and mixed up the wires. The car now has a rough idle an stalls. It has an ignition coil, not a distributor and I'm having problems finding the right order for the wires. Please Help
Douglas -
Without a distributor, it's simply called distrubutorless ignition.
Use the following link to view an image of the firing order for your engine-
Copy and Paste the link into your Address bar. Note- the link is part of a repair guide for you car, roughly equivalent to a Haynes or Chiltons repair manual.
New User -
I have the Haynes repair manual and it shows me the firing order and that is how the wires are connected but the idle is still rough and it stalls out. I noticed that all wires are a little different in length and was wondering it they need to placed on certain plugs and if so does the longest go to 1 and the shortest to 2 and so on. Thank you
Douglas -
The length is not a big concern. You may have got bad wires (somewhat common if they were inexpensive aftermarket wires.)
Try installing the old wires and see if it makes a difference.
Or, in darkness/shade look to see if there is any stray spark from the plug wires or coils. USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS!
Make sure the plugs are properly gapped. Check to see if you may have damaged or knock off a wire or vacuum hose during the installation.
Was the vehicle running fine before the repairs? If not the problem may be something completely different. Still check the coils and plug wires for arcing.
Get back to me.
New User -
The vehicle was running great before I decided to change the wires and plugs. I don't see any arching and all the hoses look fine. I took out the plugs and they are all gapped according to specs. I'm going nuts!!! I appreciate your responses is there anything else you can think of that might be the problem? thanks
Douglas -
Does the engine run smooth above idle (if you rev it up)?
Also, this is a 1991?
New User -
Yes its a 91. No it doesn't run smooth and if you put it in gear it stalls out
Douglas -
You probably should check cylinder compression with a gauge at this point to rule out the timing being off.
Pneumatic suspension keeps blowing main 30amp fuse.May go for several days ok and then will take out fuse 2 or 3 times on a 15 mile run.Suspension also has a habit of collapsing overnight,usually front.Local dealer has been unable to find cause.
Bruce Kit -
Not a simple or a cheap fix, have the height adjustment sensors tested (there are 4) and have the compressor tested for amperage draw, the compressor might be failing, and require more current than the fuse can handle.
The height adj sensors are about $350 each and the compressor assy is about $420.
Bruce Kit -
Have someone check the suspension sensors and the compressor for current draw (excessive)
parking lights front & rear stay on when not turned on!
Douglas -
Look to see if you have the infamous switch on the top of the steering column that gets accidentally bumped and causes (by design) the lights to stay on. Give me an update either way.
Ilive in the rep of ireland and drive a 1998 legacy estate imported from the usa,we drive on the left hand side in this country,the lights on my car are designed for driving on the right,when you dip your lights the light apears to be thrown to the right affecting the oncoming drivers,can you come up with a solution which those not involve new european lights which will cost me approx 800 dollars.
encsisme -
Let me give this a go. It sounds like when you switch your headlamps from high beam to low beam the light beam goes into the oncoming drivers eyes. There is either a combination of 2 or 3 screws used for headlamp alignment. To start this find a level wall and level ground. Back the car about 10 feet from the wall (or 2.5 meters) turn on the headlights (low and high) and mark the wall to identify your start point. I want you to then take the adjustment screw and make your adjustments. Here is a link that may help. Let me know if you need more. Al
Did you have any luck with making adjustments to the headlights? Hopefully the like worked for you even thou it was for a 96 not a 98. Let me know and if needed I will see what else you need. Al
encsisme -
It has been a couple of weeks since we last heard from you. Were you able to adjust the headlites? Let me know. Al
Douglas -
The best way to save money is to buy used lights. Ebay is worth a try, even country to country shipping is a viable option to avoid the $800 expense for new. If you have no luck there try a search for recycled parts, salvage parts, etc and that should yield some results.
1998 Subaru Legacy Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving No pattern
New User Asked -
At 115,000 miles, I have two vibrations. They seem to coincide. At cold idle 700 RPM, a vibration in gear while stopped/brake applied, feels like an exhaust mount or motor mount vibration to chassis. Midas checked both and says they appear okay.
At 55 MPH plus, vibration at highways speeds seeming to be related to a tire out of balance. Replaced tires 6500 miles ago. Vibration not in steering suggesting a shimmy of a different source (almost seems like a side to side shimmy rather than up/down). Don't believe it is tires. Not engine--seems smooth. I can up-shift transmission with no change in vibration (vibration continues). If I back off throttle, then resume, sometimes the vibration will reduce or go away (while returning to same speed).
Vibration first noticed in February, and now again in July...odd...
I saw a passing reference to a 65 MPH plus Subaru vibration on internet, but didn't find explanation. What's that about?
Thank you...
Big Jim -
the vibrations could be wheel berings or trirod ends.at a cold start the idle should be set at 10 grand 700, it is about ready to stall,to low. hope some of this might help good luck BIG JIM
New User -
Big Jim,
Thanks for your reply. Do we believe the 4 WD differential is potentially a contributor to the road speed vibration?
I saw a passing reference to a 65 MPH plus Subaru vibration on internet, but didn't find explanation. What's that about?
1998 Subaru Legacy Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise Happens always Always
New User Asked -
Just had battery replaced. Since then there is a relay clicking noise to left of steering column. Series of clicks on & then short period off. Clicks at all times and driving me crazy!!! Is there a fuse that needs to be replaced or connection I need to check? Please advise. Dealer wants to see car and can't tell me over phone - want to self diagnose if I can....
Arlene
Douglas -
Disconnect the negative battery cable then depress the brake pedal for a few seconds. Reconnect the neg battery cable. If problem is still present at this point try another relay. Do you know what the relay is for? Have you lost function to anything? Does the check engine light come on at any time while the engine is running?
New User -
OK - tried that last night. Didn't work - clicking was still a problem. Decided to open up dash under steering column and isolate relay clicking. Found it by targeting sound and then feeling where clicking was coming from. It was the remote keyless entry 'box' - black unit with two 20amp fuses. I pulled the fuses and whala....the clicking stopped. Now have to determine if remote keyless entry needs replacement. ThanX for try.
Arlene
Experienced a fuel like starvation under acceleration for the first time which recovered after letting sit. Caused engine sensor light to come on which decoded to spark plug 3 and 4 being bad. 1998 2.2L Legacy sedan with 195K on it. Should I just replace the fule pump or is there some other steps first before spending $130 (wait for complete failure, fuel pressure regulator, filter)?
Douglas -
Were the codes P0303 and P0304 (misfire on on cylinders 3 and 4)?
I believe your engine uses an airflow meter (mass airflow sensor, MAF), make sure there are no leaks in the duct work and clean the sensor filament with spray electrical cleaner (the filament is delicate.)
The fuel pressure would need to be checked with a gauge before determining the fuel pump is bad.
You also should check to see if there is a misfire under load (bad coil, wire, etc-- be sure to check for corrosion).
Replacing tune-up items; spark plugs, fuel filter, etc. is usually a good idea if they are due to be changed or suspect. These need to be replaced at some point anyways, so you are not replacing something that you don't need.
Check what I've given you so far and we'll go from there.
New User -
Yes those were the codes showing plug 3 and 4 miss-fire. I will try the tune-up (been awhile) and clean the MAF as you suggest along with looking for air leaks. Just seems it was more extremem than that as far as symptoms (stalled out under exceleration after having no previous symptoms). Can you give me a quick MAF physical description and location?
Douglas -
Located in the large air duct before the throttle body.
If you visit partsamerica.com, enter your Year, Make, Model, etc, and select the mass airflow sensor from Replacement Parts- there should be an image.
ENGINE STALLS AFTER DRIVING 2 MILES , SPEEDOMETER JUMPS UP & DOWN AND QUITS WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF OF ACCELERATOR . ONLY DTC IS P1507 , ALREADY TESTED IAC MOTOR & CKTS ,ALSO CHECKED ALL GRNDS & ALT.
Bruce Kit -
Put a volt meter on a positive terminal of the fuse panel. If voltage is erratic when drivin, then check fuseablt links, the main power fuses, the terminals on the starter and the main plug in connector.Sounds like an interrupted voltage supply
New User -
BRUCE I PUT A VOLT METER ON THE POSITIVE SIDE OF FUSE PANEL & EVERTHING CHECKS OUT FINE 14.5 V. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ?
Bruce Kit -
Sometimes we do a wiggle test on the wiring.
Basically that means that we put the voltmeter in various places, and wiggle the wiring, trying to replicate the problem. Also check the wiring on the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) on the trans.
Both tail lights on my 1997 Subaru legacy are out. The bulbs work w/ the brake lights and all other lights work. However, when headlights are on, tail lights do not come on (but these same bulbs do light when brake is pushed). I did check the fuse box under dash and there is a fuse for tail lights (but it says "right side" - no fuse for "left side" per manual). All fuses appear to be okay. Any suggestions? ddmast@aol.com
Sterlingfixer -
Have you replace the bulbs? There are 2 filaments inside them and if the bright (brake) filament is working, but the dim is not, it will make your problem. If the bulbs are OK, check that the contacts are clean. Make sure the front marker lights come on. If not, try the switch on top of the steering column. If you now have light at all 4 corners, you may have a bad headlight switch. If only the rear park lights (taillights) are not working, you have a problem in the wiring harness. Does the license bulb work?
New User -
Thansk so much for your help. I did what you suggested. When I turned on the parking switch light (and turned it off again) the tail lights did come on - and they stay on. I am not sure how long it will last, as I suspect there is a switch problem/wiring problem. (Yes, my license plate lights were/are on.) And yes, I had already checked fuses and changed bulbs. I will see how long it lasts. So if it a "bad headlight switch" as you suggested it might be, how difficult is that to change out? Thx again.
1996 Subaru Legacy Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
New User Asked -
Cruise control not working. This happened a year ago and I found that the little plastic cup under the brake light switch had a hole thru it, and by putting a rivet thru it cured the problem, so I checked the fuse and it's Ok. Light for cruise does come on when the botton is pressed, but the small lever control does nothing when trying to set speed. What's next? Thanks, Bilou
Roger -
Hello, Since you get a light indicating the cruise comes "ON", I would be looking at the servo under the hood that actuates the throttle and see if it has become disconnected from the throttle, or, has a vacuum hose unplugged/split. If the servo has no vacuum lines (is all electric) and the wiring has no damage, the cable is hooked up to the throttle, the servo itself is likely at fault.
When you look at that brake light switch, be sure it is adjusted properly and wiring and any vacuum hose present makes a good connection at the switch.
Roger
New User -
Thanks Roger for your quick response. I checked everything you mentioned, and found the problem. As you know when you push the brake or clutch pedal in, the cruise is discontinued. Like I said in my question I found a hole worn in the plastic cup that the brake switch hits. Well this time it was the clutch plastic that was worn thru and allowed the button to go thru the hole in the clutch lever. I put 3/16 bolt in the hole so the switch activates and walla. Cruise works fine now. Thought you might want to know. Bill
1996 Subaru Legacy Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
Hi: I've had this problem 6 times in the last month. When I try to restart after short trips of only a couple of miles, my Subaru ('96 2.2 ) cranks fine but won't start. I let it sit a few minutes and it starts fine. Happened today, and I plulled one wire from the coil to see if I had spark and bingo, it started and runs great after replacing the wire. So that told me nothing.
Can't put up with this off and on problem. I'm afraid my wife will get stranded. I tried new plugs, wires, and fuel filter. My mechanic hinted towards the crank sensor, but can't be certain since there are no codes, and of course the problem never happens for him.
Thanks alot, Bill
Roger -
The very best chance you'll get is to catch the condition present long enough to monitor the sensors (with a scanner) for their output values. Should the crankshaft sensor show to be good but there is no spark you can look toward the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or pehaps an ignition coil.
Do you have a friend who has access to a scanner? Are there VO-TECH programs in your area that have automotive teaching programs who might help? Many body shops have scanners too. Anyone in that area?
Roger
New User -
Roger: That's basically what I was thinking too. Do you have any other things I should try if the crank sensor doesn't solve the problem? I may need to try other solutions.
Roger -
Hello, A crank sensor typically can "drop out" intermittanly from radiant heat. After it cools down it may work again and allow the engine to start. They do not always set a code for this behavior.
It would be your good fortune to be able to monitor the sensor with a good diagnostic scanner connected when the condition is present. Some owners opt to have the sensor replaced (as an educated guess) based on experiences mechanics have had with other cars.
If you find the sensor both affordable and accessable for a "try" you need only to decide your willingness to gamble. Of course the best way is to duplicate the complaint/condition and determine the fault using a scanner to eliminate a guess.
Roger
Roger -
Hello, May I hear from you concerning the status of this question, please?
1996 Subaru Legacy All Part Groups Won't Start When starting When warm
New User Asked -
in the morning first thing, it will start. but after driving for a while and i stop the car won't start again unless I sit for a while (5 minutes)and then it will start
Sterlingfixer -
Hi,
There are several things that can cause your Legacy to act like this. You could have a bad crank and/or cam sensor. They are heat sensative and could be failing when the engine is hot. The engine coolant temperature sensor can also make a hard start when hot. In this case, it will most likely start if the gas pedal is held flat on the floor while cranking. There is also the possibility of a fuel pump relay or main relay failing when hot, but this is not as common.
Dale
1996 Subaru Legacy Fuel System Stalling When starting Always
New User Asked -
i recently changed my fuel filter in my 1996 suburu legacy wagon (2.2L), and though it starts; it only runs for about ten seconds and chugs a lot, then dies. what did i do wrong. also, i changed the oil and the only thing i did different this time is put in some lucas oil stabilizer. the napa guy said i might have put in too much oil and to drain some, so i did and that had the same chugging then dying problem. i then put the old fuel filter back on and still the chugging and dying. what should i do, and what did i do wrong? i've chaged many fuel filters and have never had a problem, i hope you guys can help. thanks. dave latham
Roger -
Hello, Like you, I can't see how changing the oil and the fuel filter could cause this symptom to start happening. Unless the engine is a diesel and there is air in the fuel line...
The Lucas Oil Stabilizer is to be substituted for one of the quarts of the crankcase capacity, not added to the number of oil quarts called for. I believe you are aware of this and did your part to follow the procedure. An excess amount of oil in the crankcase will create foam. Foam won't pressurize and you would have lost oil pressure. I don't agree that you overfilled the oil or that it is relative here.
Could there be a problem with the fuel quality? Condensation in the tank? With the fuel filter disconnected can you run the fuel pump and catch a fuel sample and look for water, etc? Any chance the clamps are loose on the air inlet tube to the throttle body? That would permit unmetered air to bypass airflow sensors and call for the wrong fuel mixture.
Does the check engine light come on while the engine runs/chugs? Do you know the fuel pressure to be adequate? Have you rechecked for any loose connectors and vacuum lines on the intake manifold?
Please advise,
Roger
Roger -
It's been a long time since I've heard from you. What's new?
Recently the vehicle started hesitating in second and third gear at about 1500-2000 rpms. it kept happening and now the vehicle has been sitting for a few days and when i start it the rpms drop to 100-150 rpms and then if the gas pedal is not pushed in to keep rpms above 1000 it will die
New User -
having problems with it starting also i had to have the car jumped this morning to get it to start but after about 10 minutes of sitting at 1000 rpms i let it die and it didnt even turn over.
Douglas -
Okay, we need to start by having the battery tested. A 'dead' battery can cause unpredictable problems on modern vehicles. Also, check the battery cables and grounds. These can have the same effect as a bad battery. Most chain parts stores will test your battery free of charge, Advance Auto will charge your battery if that is all it needs.
Start with a good battery and clean healthy cables and give me an update.
Also let me know if the check engine light came on at anytime while the engine was running.
I just bought my legacy and don't know much about awd wanted to know what the FWD light is and why it comes on if its AWD
Gro -
Not knowing the full details of your car, I am assuming this. "Switches from the tires that grip , to the Tires that slip" this was/is subarus slogan. There are sensors that sense when tires are slipping, and the lights come on accordingly, to let the operator know whether the car is in frontwheel drive, or 4 wheel drive.
1995 Subaru Legacy Ignition System Won't Start Happens always When warm
New User Asked -
If the enigine has been ran for over 1 or so hours, in very hot temps, after it si turned off, it will not start. The dealership stated it could be either the coolant temp sensor or the cam temp sensor? Have you dealt with this, or are you familiar wit hit? I don't want to pay either them or my go to mechanic to trouble shoot. I would like to replace the sensors, if they are the cause and go from there. The dash temp guage is sitting middle road while driving, nothing is pointing towards an overheated engine. My mechanic said the senors is a crap shoot, as he has never heard of that being a problem. This problem came up last year during the summer and he replaced the starter, saying it was on a dead spot. When you turn the key, it doesn't click/try/turn/growl...nothing. The lights dim on the dash, which shows me the ignition is trying or processing the turn of the key. One side note is that once the engine has had time to cool down, it fires right up. Usually two hours. Hope this helps, I hope you have heard of this before. Thanks for the help!
macconeck -
I have delt with this problem before
it sounds like either your Batt has a bad cell, or your starter is overheating and on its way out
when it gets to the point of not starting and you can get it started with a boost then it is one of the other ,I would start with the battery
hope this helps
New User -
Even with a boost, the car will not start until it has cooled down. Usually an hour to two later. The battery has enough cranking amps to start it at that time. I replaced the started last year after we started having this problem. It only happened a few times. My mechanic said to rplace it - dead spot. Now the problem has started again, and I feel the starter is operating properly. You mentioned it may be getting too hot? Have you ever heard of a faulty temp sensor as the Subaru dealer mentioned?
macconeck -
definately and that is something you can replace youself.
that will stop everything until cooldown.
I will try and find out the location of yours
give me till later on today if you do not find it sooner
New User -
Stop everything, meaning, the ignition functions? In your best answer, what is the root of the problem given the environment it is ocurring within? battery, sensors, starter, ignition? I checked the battery, it shows full charge and full cranking amps, hot or not. I hate electrical, as it could be anything. Could you look at the ignition flow and see what on that line could be telling it to not start. If you give me that list and a priority of which is the first to check, and so one, I will be good. I am willing to change all of the variables to ensure the problem is resolved, but I would rather stop it with a one time fix. Thanks for your help on this.
macconeck -
temp sensor will shut the ignition system down so that all you get is a click.
now it is a process of elimination no matter how you deal with it.
Lets go back a little ,at one point you said the lights on the dash dimmed when attempting to start is that correct?
New User -
Yes, when I turned the key to the start position, the lights on the dash showed a draw of power. I did not hear anything from the engine during the attempt.
macconeck -
ok Lets do one more test .
turn on your head lights and have someone attempt to crank the car ,watch to see if the headlights dim . and get back to me with the answer asap
New User -
Do you mean when it acts up and won't start or just a normal start, everything operating?
macconeck -
when it acts up and wont start
New User -
The problem is, it only does this when it has been run for around two hours with the air on and on a hot day. That is my biggest issue, when it happens, I have had nothing handy to test it to see what is not functioning. It will start and run for 30 min - 1 hour jaunts with no problem. If the lights dim when I try and start it when it fails to start, does it mean something?
macconeck -
yes and from all the symptoms I t still leads to the starter or starter solenoid
the lights dim because it is a load somewhere large enough to dim the lights trying to pull more cranking amps.
that also indicates the starter solenoid connected but not operating correctly.
it does not indicate a open circuit
it all points to the solenoid which must kick out in order for the starter to connect.
New User -
On the subaru, is the starter solenoid part of the starter, or where is it located?
macconeck -
yes it is part of the starter on then side of the starter
New User -
I replaced that last year when I changed out the starter. would this part go bad that soon?
macconeck -
yes it could go at any time or could be bad from the factory
Douglas -
You replaced the starter a year ago. Where did you buy the starter from? Was this a new starter with a warranty that is still in effect. Many chain autopart stores offer free testing of the charging/starting circuit. If by chance the store you bought your starter from offers this service (they offer it free in hopes of selling parts) have them test the system when you know failure will occur. If they condemn your starter and you have a valid warranty they owe you a new starter.
Aftermarket parts rarely duplicate the quality of dealer parts. Failure in a years time is not rare.
Sounds like the dealer was giving you potential causes for [engine cranks but doesn't start when hot] instead of [engine doesn't crank when hot] as you are experiencing.
If you question the temp sensor, unplug it during the no start. Will it start now? If 'No', leave it unplugged and try starting in two hours (needed cool down time). Does it start now, if 'Yes' forget about replacing the temp sensor (but do plug it back in).
New User -
The part came from Napa. They gave a lifetime warranty. Can and will pull out, but the issue seems to be something else since it is the same symptoms as last year. PS - after we replaced the starter, we never ran the car for that period of time thus never brought it to the same temp. Does this change your answer? I am bugged because no one can give me a solid answer, or maybe there isn't one since it is a temperature related issue. I need to run the car til hot and then test. Any thoughts.
Douglas -
Do you have a manual or automatic transmission? The park/neutral safety switch comes into question. Try in neutral instead of park. If it then starts (or will start in any gear except park) the switch is the problem.
Do you have a security system?
New User -
It is a auto. The car had a security system, but we had it ripped out due to issues with the locks when it rained.
Douglas -
There is no way around checking with a voltmeter or test light to see if the starter is receiving voltage when the key is turned to the start position. If it does the starter needs replacing.
And if it doesn't problem is in the circuitry to the starter.
One other option on troubleshooting is to cool suspect components individually. When you cool the culprit the car will start.
To answer your previous question, yes you have to troubleshoot this problem. Attempts at quick fixes can become costly.
1995 Subaru Legacy Fuel System Malfunction When driving No pattern
New User Asked -
"Jan 26/05 9:14PM: I have 250T legacy. The idle wavers between 300rpm and say 1500rpm, with jittery unsmooth power, massive fuel loss in black smoke from exhaust. The computer fault is number 23, that refers to the air flow meter, but we have replaced this. Could this be decayed wiring to the air flow metre. Symptoms again, unsmooth jittery drive, feels like running on three, and wavering idle, and massive fuel consumption. Several garages, have been unable to make other than temporary improvement."
Fuel System - Hesitating - no pattern - when driving
Les -
Hi;
Sounds like the ECM went. Try running a diagnostic test and after you get a code, disconnect a different connector. Like the crank sensor or even the fresh air sensor. The computer should pick it up. Any more help please feel free to ask. Les.
New User -
Thank you, but can you tell me what the ECM is Please?
Les -
Hi;
The ECM is " Electronic Control Module " basically known as the computer. Sorry about that. Les.
Hi I have a legacy GT 1995 twin turbo, the check engine light has come on causing the radiator fans to come on immediatly when the ignition is on when cold its almost impossible to start and when it does start the check light stays on as well as the fans but the engine idles OK and drives OK too. This error occured after having the clutch replaced but the garage have checked all connections any ideas?
Sterlingfixer -
Sounds like a bad, broken or disconnected coolant temperature sensor. It will give all 3 symptoms.
New User -
Hi got back to the garage with your suggestions, they said there is a fuel temp sensor aswell could it be this? they tested the resistance and said its ok. so still a bit of a quandary. any ideas?
Sterlingfixer -
You should check the codes. That will tell what the computer is seeing to be wrong. A broken, stretched or pinched wire can cause this kind of fault even if the sensor is good. Since the computer controls the fans and the check engine light, look to see what it says is wrong.
we own a well maintained '95 legacy with 167,000 miles. we have what i consider to be excessive lifter noise after oil pressure has built up. What sort of nightmare is it to adjust or replace them?
Roger -
Hello, The 2.2L engine uses Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. They don't seem all that labor intense but I'd recommend an inspection for wear assessment.
What is your email address and I'll send you some pics to give you an overview what this involves.
just replaced fuel filter & air intake filter. why does it start up to 2000 rpm for 1-2 seconds, then sputter & stop?
Bruce Kit -
You might have a bit of an air lock in the fuel line. Find the schrader valve in the fuel line close to the throttle body.It looks like a tire valve stem. It is normally used to test fuel pump pressure, You can use to bleed air out of the system.
I was driving my 1995 Legacy up a very steep hill. I had it in third gear (automatic trans). I just crested the hill, and I lost all power and the engine turned off. I was able to pull over and pop the hood. Engine temp was fine-no coolant leaks-nothing felt hot to the touch. I smelled a faint burning hot smell, nothing too overpowering. The car started right up, and I got a flashing "AT OIL TEMP" light on the dash. The car drove home from there just fine. I checked the manual that came with the car, and followed the directions for checking the AT fluid level. It checked out okay. The fluid was nice and pink with no burnt smell to it. I have it scheduled to be looked at- I would like to compare their diagnosis with yours. Is there a transmission cooling system that can go bad?
Bruce Kit -
90% of auto trans failures are related to overheating.This time you probably did not do much damage.Repeated overheating will cause trans failure.
I would like to suggest adding a good sized trans cooler to the system.If space is at a premium,you might look at B&M for a cooler.
They have a line of High Tech Oil coolers that have a built in thermostat and an electric fan.
Not cheap, but much cheaper than rebuilding an automatic transmission!
New User -
Thanks for the advice! What do you feel would be a shop's fix for this problem? My research online hasn't turned up anything regarding similar complaints for this particular car. Is there a fix for overheating transmission oil (add on cooler aside, of course)?
Bruce Kit -
If mfg (owners manual) allows it, some trans run cooler with synthetic trans oil, such as Redline, Royal Purple or TCI. If getting trans flush (preventive maintenance, by the way) you might consider a switch to sythetic trans oil.
Bruce Kit -
By the way, the B&M High Tech coolers are about $200.
Not sure if this is an ignition or fuel injection problem: the car starts fine when cold or quite hot however sometimes when just warm (having driven a couple of miles) it won't start at all and requires either loads of cranking or to be left and will then eventually start.
When it does start it seems like it may stall (either hot or cold) until the engine's run for 1/2 a second, we've replaced the engine temp sensor (as advised by the engine management system) and also the ignition relay. Is it possible that the fuel system is losing it's pressure (one way valve?) so when it's cold although the fuel pressure is low the mixture is rich and when hot there is sufficient pressure in the system to get going etc. Any ideas gratefully received. orlando UK
Sterlingfixer -
This truly sounds like an engine temperature sensor problem. Is the engine management system saying that all is OK now, or does it still say there is an engine temperature problem? If there is still a problem recorded, try erasing the memory. If it comes back, you will need to check for:
1) Damaged sensor connector
2) Broken/frayed wire between computer/sensor
3) Defective/wrong replacement sensor
4) Defective/damaged computer.
If it still gives a problem, try starting it with the accelerator pedal held 1/2 way down. If it starts more easily, it may be flooding, due to an additional fuel injection problem, like leaking injectors.
At full wheel lock (both ways) it's like I lose power steering and the car seems to grind to a halt and even the engine revs drop as if there's some kind of resistance... once wheels are straight, it's normal again.
Bruce Kit -
At 'full lock' the power steering presure is at its highest. If the car is stalling as a result, it means the PS pump has a problem and should be replaced. Reman ones avail.Until it is replaced, try avoiding the the 'full lock' position, as it could cause an accident.
Subaru certified mechanic told me Master Cylinder is leaking, and has never heard of one going out... ideas? sell? replace? aftermarket? dealer only?
secondly, the Water Pump is leaking badly.
and thirdly, the Purge Control Valve is bad.
it has 167K Hwy Miles is a rare MI Sport Ed. Wagon.
at a loss of what to do. Please Help.Thanks!!!
Douglas -
Can you perform the repairs yourself? If you can I'd go ahead with aftermarket parts if the savings is significant.
Then on the other hand sometimes it's better to part with things while we still love them. If repair$ continue to mount it'll probably end your admiration for this car.
It's a coin flip really. Personally I'd repair it and drive. As for advice to someone else, probably a good time for another car.
Not sure if this is an ignition or fuel injection problem: the car starts fine when cold or quite hot however sometimes when just warm (having driven a couple of miles) it won't start at all and requires either loads of cranking or to be left and will then eventually start.
When it does start it seems like it may stall (either hot or cold) until the engine's run for 1/2 a second, we've replaced the engine temp sensor (as advised by the engine management system) and also the ignition relay. Is it possible that the fuel system is losing it's pressure (one way valve?) so when it's cold although the fuel pressure is low the mixture is rich and when hot there is sufficient pressure in the system to get going etc. Any ideas gratefully received. orlando UK
Sterlingfixer -
This truly sounds like an engine temperature sensor problem. Is the engine management system saying that all is OK now, or does it still say there is an engine temperature problem? If there is still a problem recorded, try erasing the memory. If it comes back, you will need to check for:
1) Damaged sensor connector
2) Broken/frayed wire between computer/sensor
3) Defective/wrong replacement sensor
4) Defective/damaged computer.
New User -
Thank you for your quick reply. The engine management system says that all is fine (no probs). Do you think that it could bea fuel pump or fuel way valve problem ie the fuel prssure is low? Many thnaks orlando
Sterlingfixer -
It may be a lack of fuel. You can check this by giving a shot of starting fluid, then noting whether it starts better or worse.
It could also be too much fuel, such as a leaking injector/s. Try holding the accelerator half way down when trying to start and note whether it starts better or worse.
New User -
Thanks for your reply - are there any obvious checks that can be done on the fuel system to check pressures, any control valves and flow rates?
Although this car is old it's in very good condition (apart from this prob) but I don't want to spent 2 times the value of the car getting a mechanic to check it out for many hours!!!!
Sterlingfixer -
First start with these check WHEN THE CAR IS MAKING ITS PROBLEM.
Try holding the accelerator half way down when trying to start and note whether it starts better or worse. If better, it may be flooding.
You can give it a shot of starting fluid, then note whether it starts better or worse.
If better, you may not be getting enough fuel.
If neither test helps, we may have an ignition problem.
Run these simple tests to reduce the number of possibilities.
New User -
Thanks for your e-mail and sorry not have come back before. Didn't have any probs over the weekend, in fact the car ran perfectly...!
Sterlingfixer -
That's too bad. Can't get to the root of the problem that way. (unless the problem goes away completely!)
1993 Subaru Legacy Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always No pattern
New User Asked -
my 93'legacy has a rpm gauge and a speed gauge, however the speed gauge doesn't work along with the mileage and the dash lighting on that side of the guages. also , the fuel gauge works whenever it wants to . Can you tell me how to fix the speed gauge, the mileage gauge, and the fuel gauge along with the dash lighting on the right side for these gauges ? (the lighting for the rpm gauge and the rpm gauge itsself are the only things working.)
Falkeneiz -
Sounds like your speedo /cluster assembly is bad. You would need to replace unit .. check terminals on the rear of cluster after removal.... The speedo/odometer part of the cluster should be electric fed (VSS) not cable operated. If you have more questions you can email me at [redacted] after accepting this response. Good Luck
1993 Subaru Legacy Engine Hesitating When driving When cold
New User Asked -
My car starts fine but when accelerating it helitates and sometimes I get a slight backfire. This happens mostly when the car is cold but sometimes when it is warm. My gas mileage has dropped about 5 mpg recently and Ive tried changing the plugs and wire. Although it ran better for a day it started right back like before. I have 130,000 miles and no check engine light.
encsisme -
Your engine is talking to you and telling you that the timing belt is stretched and needs replaced. The slight backfire is the timing slipping. The recommended time to replace the belt is 60K miles. The good part is that your engine is not an iterference engine so if the belt breaks there is little chance of internal engine damage. I recommend you immediately replace the timing belt.. the job should take about 3 hours. Let me know if I can be further help. Al
The track for the automatic shoulder belt on the driver's side is broken. The motor still woks, but the cable is popping out of the track. My mechanic tells me that it will cost over $700 to repair. Is there a less expensive, but still safe alternative?
kaptnzog -
If you havent tried already, look for a belt assembly in a salvage yard.There are several on the web where one may be found at a reasonable price. Becaue it is a safety issue, altering or tryng to repair what you have is a strict no-no. If that belt were to fail during an accident who ever did the altering or repair could find themselves in deep heat.The assembly itself is not that hard to change out.It may take a couple of special tools but for most its just removing the surrounding trim unbolting and unpluging the motor and reversing the process to install.
My car just dies while I'm driving and drains the battery
I have already replaced the alternator and there is no change
and where is the coil/
warren
Douglas -
Did you have the alternator bench tested at your local parts store (free service at most chain stores)?
If you are using a known good alternator, the first check is to see if you have battery positive voltage at large wire that goes to the alternator (use a test light or preferably a voltmeter).
The car does not want to start when it is cold or snowy. If the car does start, then it will die if you attempt to travel up any incline.
macconeck -
you will probly have a faulty fuel pump or pressure regulator causing your problem.
You can do a fuel pressure test on the car to check the pressure at start running and how many seconds it takes for pressure to get down to zero.
You should have at least 35-40 psi running
and 35 at high throttle
Pressure shoul take about 30 seconds to drop down to zero
I hope this helps
New User -
Could it be the coolant sensor as well?
macconeck -
Based on the stalling on an incline I would say it is not a coolant sensor.
It really sounds fuel related.
This is an automatic transmission. Today it snowed and the awd was not present at all. Backend was spinning, on braking or accelerating the frontend pulls to the left. And when attempting to go up hill the back wheels jerk really hard with a loud popping sound.
Bruce Kit -
Sounds like a wire has come loose off the transmission and/or the fluid is low.
Bruce Kit -
Also ensure that the tires are correctly inflated and are the same size as those differences can cause the symptoms you describe.
New User -
Well the tires are good set of Michelin Ice I purchased last year. They are inflated and still have good wear. So I don't think it is that. What wire are you talking about possibly being loose? Also, I understand that packing of the middle differential could cause the jolting/jerking I was speaking of. Is that possible?
Bruce Kit -
There are clutches in the differential. The wire I am speaking about, is the wire to the solenoid that enguages the AWD.Usually located RH side of transmission (2 wires)
1992 Subaru Legacy Engine Malfunction When driving No pattern
New User Asked -
ENGINE WILL FAIL TO DISTRIBUTE POWER TO THE DRIVE TRAIN ONCE IN A WHILE. SUBSEQUENTLY THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT WILL COME ON AND PROBLEM WILL GET WORSE.
oIL WILL RELEASE ONTO THE RESONATOR/CATYLITIC? BELOW THE RIGHT CV JOINT, AND BLACK SMOKE WILL ISSUE FROM THE TAIL PIPE.
iF LEFT FOE A WHILE PROBLEM WILL TEND TO GO AWAY FOR A TIME.
WET WEATHER SEEMS TO TRIGGER PROBLEM WHEN DRIVING?
MECHANIC REPLACED MANY SEALS AND "TENSIONER" FOR TIMING BELT WHICH WAS ALSO REPLACED.
mECHANICS NOTES READ: "HOOKED UP SCAN TOOL. RETREIVED CODES, 32, 31, 23, 13, &11. TESTED MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR, TPS SWITCH, CAM AND CRANK SENSOR."
PLEASE ADVISE.
Roger -
5-2-03. Hello,
I'll try to help. Did you go back to the mechanic and ask for an explanation as to this condition repeating even after you spent money on the repairs he has done? What did he say? You should have recourse!
Tell me what you want me to do and I'll try to come up with an idea or two.
Roger
New User -
Mechanic states that he needs to be scanning the computer while the car is malfunctioning in order to determine the problem?!
They say that a weak connection to the oxygen sensor will cause problems in wet conditions.
Car runs like a champ in dry conditions-acts up when wet.
Any info on codes/sensor problems would be helpful.
Thanks in advance,
Pete.E
Roger -
5-6-03.
Pete, A proper diagnosis is not going to happen until the complaint can be duplicated with the scanner in place.
Codes seem to 'domino' and when data gets corrupted, several codes can set when the problem is really not as bad as codes in a list would lead you to believe. I always list/record the codes, clear the codes, drive the car and see what codes set again. Then I start with the lowest number code first and address what the code says is out of order. Clear the codes, drive again and so on 'til no codes return and I've been faithful to use the conditions of the complaint to insure I've fixed it.
If the condition is most expected to occur in wet conditions, can we create the condition by driving through an automatic car wash? Sounds crazy, but if it works, you can show the technician how to duplicate your problem. (Of course you'll want to try this first on your own so if it doesn't work you're not paying a technician for his time.)
One thing is for certain, if someone leaves it to me to guess....and I'm wrong, I'm in deep trouble with my customer. Your mechanic should take such a stand to protect your expenses and earn your repeat business.
Should the car wash idea not posture the car for diagnosis, drop the car off when rain is forcast and try to be there for the road test when those wet conditions will get you agreeing that you both have experienced the cars' malfunctioning.
A weak/poor oxygen sensor connection can be easily fixed. But, don't 'fix it' (guess) until the condition is present. An exception would be to find when you disconnect the sensor, the weather pack seal is missing that would keep water from getting in and causing sensor troubles to be present 'til the connector dries out again from heat. Be aware of hot parts when you check this connector.
My power windows suddenly don't work. I looked in the manual and it says to check the fuses. None of the fuses listed in the manual or on the fuse panel are for the power windows. All of the fuses that are there seem to be OK. Same for the power door locks.
Roger -
Hello, Power windows are usually protected by a circuit breaker in the fuse panel. Door locks are fuse protected.
One of the things I look for when fuses and breakers are known to be good is to expose the driver's power window switch and see if it is getting power with the ignition key on.
If it is not getting power, there may be a broken wire in the flex boot that connects the door to the car body. You can see this rubber boot when the door is wide open and you look in the area of the door hinges.
Wires inside the boot flex when the door opens/closes and fatigue causes them to break. If broken, they can be soldered back together to make a repair.
Your thoughts?,
Roger
Roger -
Hello, What is happening here, please?
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
Which is the fuse that these are associated with? There is not one labelled for the windows an door locks.
Roger -
Hello, Information on your car was a little tough to find..I've based my search on the Legacy LE Model.
I'm finding there are two fuse boxes. A MAIN FUSE BOX and a FUSE/RELAY BOX.
The power locks get their power through Fuse #11 in the Fuse/Relay Box. Fuse #11 is a 20amp fuse.
There is a "POWER WINDOW/SUNROOF RELAY" drawn on the schematic but its location in the car is not given! This relay shows to get power from Fuse Link #1 (Main Fuse Box) which is a 30amp and also receives power from Fuse #15 in the "Fuse/Relay Box".
Do you have power at the door lock and power window switches on the drivers door? In each case the tested switch power wire color is RED.
1992 Subaru Legacy Fuel System Won't Start Happens always When cold
New User Asked -
This car just sat most of the winter. Ran OK when first started using it but now takes a long time to start when cold. It eventually will start if the battery doesnt run out. After it's started it's OK until it gets cold again. The colder it is the harder it starts. HELP ???
encsisme -
Couple of things to ask. Did the car get winterized or just parked? After the period of sitting what maintenance did you do. Lets start with the basics. Does the car have an oil pressure gage or just a lite on the dash. Let me know and we can get you rolling. AL
New User -
The car was not winterized. It sat outside at a service center waiting for brakes. I added dry gas and injector cleaner when I picked it up. I havent driven it much since adding them. It does not have an oil gague.
encsisme -
Lets start off with please dont release the question unless you feel that I am not providing good advice. Let me take a shot with this. The car is a pain to start first thing in the morning. Once started it will start right up for the rest of the day. If you let the car sit from 8am to 4 pm it is hard to start again. Does this spell things out??
If so, it sounds like the fuel pump is not getting a signal to begin to pump fuel until oil pressure is established at >12 psi. There is an oil pressure relay that controls this and they get dirty and or go bad. A way to check this therory... with the engine cold turn the key to the on position... watch the oil pressure lite on the dash while cranking the engine over. Once the oil pressure lite goes out if the engine immediately starts there is your problem. Let me know.. AL
New User -
Sorry I released it. I did not see you had replied right away and thought you had gone offline. I will be more patient. I just tried starting it. The oil pressure light went off but it did not start for another 10 seconds. It started when I pumped the gas twice, held it to the floor, then released the gas ( like back in the carburator day's)while spinning it over. Any other suggestions?? Thanks for your help.
encsisme -
Is there a check engine lite illuminated when the engine is running? Also there seems to be a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for cam sensors that fail with little heads up. They cost about 25.00. Let me know.. we will continue from there. Al
New User -
The check engine light does stay on when its running.
encsisme -
Hopefully this is more info than you can use.
Subaru Trouble Codes
--- CODE RETRIEVAL --
There are self diagnostic connectors on all models which, when
connected together with the key in the ON position (engine off) flash
diagnostic codes through the LED light on the Oxygen Monitor on the
ECU. The connectors are under the steering wheel, to the left of the
Oxygen Monitor on most models. On Carbureted and Single-Point Fuel
Injected 1989 Models, the test connectors are located on the engine side
of the firewall, on the driver's side. Impreza models have the ECU and
test connectors located behind the right side of the dash instead of the
left. On SVX models the connectors are located behind the driver's
kick panel.
There are four test modes. With NEITHER test connector connected, and the key in the ON (engine off) position, the light will display codes
that relate to starting and driving. With ONLY the "Read Memory"
connector connected, historic codes will be displayed. With ONLY the
"Test Mode" connector connected, a dealership technician can perform
dynamic tests. The last mode is for clearing codes (see below).
The codes are displayed as pulses of the LED mounted on the module.
The long pulses (1.2 Seconds) indicate tens and the short pulses (.2
seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by .3-Second pauses, and
multiple codes are separated by 1.8-Second pauses. (See Example Below)
(Note: On 1989 Multi-Point Fuel Injected Models, the Oxygen Sensor
Monitor Light and ECU are mounted under the rear seat package shelf, and
are accessible only from the trunk.)
On 1990 Models, the trouble codes on the Justy are viewed on the Oxygen Monitor Light Only, while on other models, the codes can be viewed on
either the Oxygen Sensor Monitor or the Malfunction Indicator Lamp
(Check Engine Light) on the dash.
1995 Impreza and Legacy Models have OBD-II Diagnostics Systems. The
OBD-II codes can be extracted and cleared with either a Subaru Factory
Tool, called the "Subaru Select Monitor) or with a universal OBD-II scan
tool. Although an expensive scan tool is required to retrieve these
new, five-character diagnostic codes, the basic codes can still be
obtained using the flashing MIL.
--- CLEARING CODES ---
Codes will clear only when the faulty system or circuit is repaired.
After making the repairs, codes can be cleared by connecting TWO pairs
of connectors, the "Self-Diagnostic" connectors, and the "Read Memory"
connectors that are usually located right next to the diagnostic
connectors. To begin, start with a warmed up engine, turn the engine
off, connect both pairs of connectors, then start the engine. This
should clear the codes. If this fails to clear the codes, consult an
Authorized Subaru Technician.
--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---
1.2 second pulse (10)
.3 second pause
1.2 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)
(Code 23 -- Oxygen Sensor)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---
1.2 second pulse (10)
.3 second pause
1.2 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)
1.2 second pulse (10)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 11)
.3 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, Oxygen Sensor and Starter Circuit)
The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and
start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and
then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.
--- CODE EXPLANATIONS ---
-- 1983 Carbureted Models --
CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11,12,21,22 Ignition Pulse System
14,24,41,42 Vacuum Switches Stay On
15,51,52 Solenoid Valve Stays On or Off
23 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit
32 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
33 Main System in Feedback
34,43 Choke Power Stays On or Off
42 Clutch Switch or Circuit
-- 1984 Through 1988 Carbureted Models --
CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11 Ignition Pulse System
22 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
23 Oxygen Sensor
24 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
25 Coolant Temperature Sensor (1984 Models)
25 Manifold Vacuum Sensor or Circuit (1[redacted] Models)
32 Duty Solenoid Valve or Circuit
33 Main System in Feedback
34 Back Up System
42 Clutch Switch or Circuit
52 Solenoid Valve Control System
53 Fuel Pump or Circuit
54 Choke Control System
55 Upshift Control
62 EGR Solenoid Valve Control
63 Canister Solenoid Valve or Circuit
64 Vacuum Line Control Valve or Circuit
65 Float Chamber Vent COntrol Valve or Circuit
71 Ignition Pulse System
73 Ignition Pulse System
74 Ignition Pulse System
-- For 1984 through 1986 Fuel Injected Models --
CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11 Ignition Pulse
12 Starter Switch Off
13 Starter Switch On
14 Airflow Meter or Circuit
15 Atmospheric Pressure Switch - Fixed Value
16 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
17 Starter Switch or Circuit
21 Seized Air Flow Meter Flap
22 Pressure or Vacuum Switches - Fixed Value
23 Idle Switch - Fixed Value
24 Wide Open Throttle Switch - Fixed Value
25 Throttle Sensor Idle Switch or Circuit
31 Speed Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit
33 Coolant Sensor or Circuit
34 Abnormal Aspirated Air Thermosensor (In Airflow Meter)
35 Air Flow Meter or EGR Solenoid Switch or Circuit
41 Atmosphere Pressure Sensor or Circuit
42 Fuel Injector - Fixed Value
43,55 KDLH Control System
46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit
47 Fuel Injector
53 Fuel Pump or Circuit
57 Canister Control System
58 Air Control System
62 EGR Control System
88 TBI Control Unit
-- 1987 Fuel Injected Models --
CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11 Ignition Pulse/Crank Angle Sensor
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
14 Injectors 1 and 2
15 Injectors 3 and 4
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
22 Knock Sensor or Circuit
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit
24 Air Control
31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid Valve Stuck On or Off
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
41 Lean Fuel Mixture Indicated
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit
51 Neutral Switch or Circuit
61 Parking Switch or Circuit
-- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection --
CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit
24 Air Control Valve or Circuit
31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit
51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position
55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit
61 Parking Switch or Circuit
-- 1988 and Later Models with Multi-Point Fuel Injection --
CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy)
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 and 2 (XT, Loyale, GL, DL)
15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
15 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (Loyale, GL, DL)
15 Fuel Injector No. 5 and 6 (XT-6)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (XT)
17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX)
17 Fuel injector No. 1 and 2 (XT-6)
18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX)
19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX)
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side on SVX)
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
23 Pressure Sensor (Justy)
24 Air Control Valve or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
24 Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve (Justy)
25 Fuel injector No. 3 and 4 (XT-6)
26 Air Temperature Sensor (Justy)
28 Knock Sensor No. 2 (SVX, Left Side)
29 Crank Angle Sensor (SVX, No. 2)
31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX)
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve (Impreza)
36 Ignitor Circuit (Justy)
37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side, On SVX)
38 Engine Torque Control (SVX)
41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
43 Throttle Switch (Justy)
44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor or Circuit (Non- Turbo Models)
49 Airflow Sensor
51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models)
51 Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission Models)
52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy)
52 Clutch Switch (Justy)
55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit
56 EGR System
61 Parking Brake Switch (Loyale)
61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid (Impreza)
62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Impreza)
62 Electric Load Signal (Justy)
63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Impreza)
63 Blower Fan Switch (Justy)
65 Vacuum Pressure Sensor
Just the other day when turning off my ignition, my car did something I have never seen before. Once it was turned off, it was like the car was still in gear and it finally released resting back about 6inches from when it was put in Park. To me I thought the transmission might be stuck in gear but driving it the AT shifts just like normal. I do have a Engine Light on but have had it on for some time now. Car runs just fine. Until now.....Also, when I am making sharp turns in or out of parking spaces for example...the car feels like it is getting caught on something and almost comes to a stop without gas. Whats happening?
Roger -
Hello, I can't help wondering if you have a CV Joint going out? Will you take a look at the grease boots on the front axles and see if they are torn...that would allow the grease to get out and the elements to get in?
Putting an automatic trans in PARK will at times not immediately engage the parking pawl until the car rolls a very short distance. Then the parking pawl will line-up and drop into place to lock the trans in PARK. If the parking brake were set before selecting PARK one would never know the difference.
How many miles on your car please? Do you hear a popping sound on acceleration when turning a corner?
Please advise,
Roger
Roger -
Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...
Roger
New User -
Roger,
Sorry for the delay on returning your email. Let me begin by saying thanks for your time and help on this issue! To begin. I believe my CV boots are good. They are clean of debris, oil/grease, and look like they are showing no signs of wear and or impending cracking. My car has 207,000 miles on it. Yeah, getting up there. Do you think that this could be a problem with my transmission or would that have nothing to do with my tight steering when parking/driving slow?
Roger -
CV Joints do wear. I would sooner expect the joints to be at fault than the transmission.
Can you arrange a road test with a local mechanic or shop foreman and demonstrate what your car does? They could estimate repairs for you.
Is your car all wheel drive?
Roger
New User -
Yeah, the car is AWD. When I start the car I also notice that the Power light on the dash is blinking. My car can be selected from POWER/Manual on the shifter.
Roger -
Seriously, I'd arrange the road test with a local mechanic or a dealership shop foreman.
Most any vehicle I have driven when in 4WD jumps or hops at slow speeds and during tight turns if the pavement is dry. Subaru has design in place to minimize this.
As for the POWER light binking...I'd have to research that for a cause. Does your Owner's Manual address this light blinking?
The POWER light is used to flash codes when the transmission has a problem.
Subaru notes a condition called "Tight Corner Braking Phenomenon" a vibration during turns. They state for the cause:
1. Check the control unit
2. Check the speed sensors 1 & 2.
3. Check the manual switch.
4. Check the ATF Temperature Sensor.
5. Check the Transfer Clutch.
6. Check the Transfer Valve.
7. Check Duty Solenoid "C".
8. Check the ATF for deterioration.
See? I think you need the help of a local professional.
I had the same problem as the 1989 Legacy. just once in a while... No start... but cranking fine. new plugs/wires. I had it towed to a shop and they got it started fine but said it was flooded. they said that code 13 keeps re-occuring. but now it seems to start fine... till the next time it doesn't. How to I rectify this?
Douglas -
They didn't want to replace anything for code 13? This is a cam/crank sensor code and may very well be causing the no start condition.
You really need to check for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period. This will let you know if the engine is flooding because of lack of spark OR because of a problem with the fuel system.
I accidentally touched an exposed wire under the dash to another wire and now the seat belt, windows and fan controls do not work. I could not find any blown fuses or relays.
New User -
the battery light in the dash board stays on.
New User -
Also, the odometer and speedometer do not function, though the dash board lights up. Essentially, everything appears to be functioning but the battery light is on in the dashboard. Something has been shorted, but I can not figure out what.
Roger -
Hi, Have you checked the fuses in the fuse relay box under the hood? If they are all good you may have a fusible link blown.
Fusible links power several fuses each. Do you have a test light or meter to see how many and which fuses are not powered?
Roger
New User -
I checked the fuses in the engine compartment and under the driver side dash board. I can not find a fusible link, but also suspect that may be the potential problem. What is confusing is that there is power to the dash, seat belts and the control panel for the fan/defrost/heat controls, but they will not operate. I suspect I may have affected the SRS airbags, so I will be taking apart the center console to check for a fusible link in that. Could it be if the RS is not functioning properly, it affects these other items?
Roger -
A fusible link is drawn on the wiring diagram to be from the positive battery post to the fuse relay panel under the hood.
The SRS won't have any other system on it's circuit fuse. I doubt there will be a fusible link in the center console.
What I'm looking for is a bank or section of fuses in one of the fuse boxes that there is no power to. This is why I asked if you checked them for power with either a test light or with a meter.
Roger
New User -
OK, I will check with a test light for power to the fuse box in the dash. I could not find the fusible link to the fuse box in the engine compartment but will look again.
thanks
New User -
I checked the fuse boxes in the engine compartment and the dash, both have power to them. Does the battery light in the dash mean anything? All fuses check out fine, and I could not find the fusible link in the diagram in the chiltons manual.
Roger -
Let me put together the three page wiring diagram I'm using and send it to you for your review.
May I please have your email address?
Roger
New User -
Well
As it turns out, it was a blown fuse that I could not tell was blown. I needed to use the test light for each one to figure it out. I do apologize for not being careful. thanks for your help.
Sam
Roger -
To close the question please click on OK to finish up. I'm glad you got it fixed!
I had a crankshaft pulley that slipped when the keyway/notch broke off. I drilled through to the notch, tapped it then put a grade 8 bolt through the crankshaft housing, and also drilled three more openings-tapped them, and also place grade 8 bolts in them.The crankshaft pulley is holding securely. When I lined up the three timing marks-crankshaft pulley,and the 2 camshaft pulleys(Using the timing notches) the stater turns over but no attempt to start. I also used a "Whistler" to verify TDC on the crankshaft pulley. Then I tried using the timimg mark on the crankshaft sprocket. I used this as TDC, and also lined up the camshaft pulleys to TDC-12 o'clock.
At least the car starts here, runs erratic for 2 or 3
seconds, sonetimes misfires and dies. I have good spark, and the fuel pump checks out ok. Could this be a fuel injector, or crankshaft or camshaft sensor problem? Thanks - Hank
Douglas -
The first thing I want you to try is a compression test, this will confirm if you have proper valve timing. What are the compression results?
New User -
How do I check compression if I can't keep the engine
running- The only way I was told that the compression was ok, was by using the whistler. I'm sure you can't really depend on this.
New User - Douglas -
A compression gauges is used to test engine compression by removing the spark plugs and inserting the gauge. Crank the engine and observe compression results. What are the results?
The engine is not running for this (and most) compression tests, just the starter cranking the engine. Make sure the battery has a good charge so the starter cranks at normal speed.
This car has an auto transaxle. the converter is continuously in lockup so the engine stalls when shifted to any position except N or P. The car can be pushed in N to about 5mph pulled into gear and go just fine. What I need to know is if this is caused by the lockup solenoid or possibly the AT control module{where is it located}. It could be the converter clutch. How do I check that or is this a typical problem?
Roger -
Hello, It has been my experience that the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid is at fault in most cases.
When they start to fail, symptoms include starting the car cold and driving for about 15 miles or 30 minutes and when you slow to stop, the car shudders and the engine dies if you don't first select neutral. Letting the powertrain cool off will sometimes let you repeat this scenerio.
If the solenoid sticks "ON" then the TCC will never release.
I vote for a new TCC solenoid and I'm believing your torque converter and it's clutch are good.
Instead of the AC clutch cleanly switching on and off, it rapidly chatters instead. I had replaced the relay behind the glove compartment but no change. The AC cools properly up until time for the compressor clutch to kick off at which time it chatters. A secondary failure of the voltage regulator has already happened as result of the problem. Any suggestions on what is cause and how to fix. FREON R-12 sight glass indicates full charge.
Roger -
Hello, What engine do you have please?
My first thought is that a compressor cycling switch is failing but I'll have to look for the wiring schematic to see how it is controlled.
Roger
New User -
2.0 liter engine
Roger -
Thanks, I'll start researching.
Roger
Roger -
There shows to be a pressure switch that has a Red/Wht wire and a Brn/Red wire in the connector. It should be on the a/c suction line (the larger of the two a/c lines). If you can locate this switch and unplug it the compressor will not run. If you jumper these wires together the compressor should run.
Can you find it? That is the switch I recommend replacing.
1991 Subaru Legacy, 2.2, non-turbo, Vehicle died while traveling on freeway. Will not restart. No spark detected. Have replaced the following with known good components in this order:
1. Crank angle sensor
2. Camshaft sensor
3. Ignitor
4. ECU Computer
Still no spark. No run. Timing belt replaced 60K miles ago and is intact. Vehicle cranks and sounds ok but no spark.
Douglas -
Now is time to check the wiring. Never overlook fuses, battery terminals, grounds, etc when you have an electrical failure. Make sure the check engine light comes on (as it normally does) when you first turn the key on. Check to see if you have key ON battery positive to the coil. You likely have a wiring problem as previously noted or a bad ignition switch (or even coil if that hasn't been ruled out).
New User -
OK, will check for 12+ at coil and use ohm meter to check primary and secondary on the coil packs - 1 coil / 2 cylinders. Have diagram and test proc in manual.
I have checked several grounds, none appear missing or broken.
Also thinking about checking "ignition Relay" or "main relay," located in LH kickboard. Problem is that I do not know the location of the ignition relay.
New User -
It has been at least two hours...
Douglas -
Do you have a check engine light with the key on and 12+ at the coil with the key on?
New User -
11.80 volts with check engine light on
Douglas -
Okay, acceptable. Now check for diagnostic trouble codes. Use the following link if you need instructions-
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
Also make sure the timing belt is moving when the engine is cranking, the belt can appear intact but be slipping because the belt is chewed up.
New User -
Timing belt turns. Made a magic marker mark on it and it moved. Battery has been disconnected, so have my codes disappeared? If not, how do I retrieve them without scan tool?
Douglas -
Did you access the instructions at the link I gave you-
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
Look for the self diagnostics instructions.
If you crank the engine the computer will (hopefully) set an error code, if it sees one.
New User -
I see, connect them. ok code 32 - o2 sensor. Checked connectoin, it's ok. Have old spare. No diff. Still no start. Checked grounds one more time. No diff.
The HVAC blower motor works intermittently (when it wants to with no discernible pattern). The contection to the motor was slighly burnt. I've cleaned and electric lubed every connection form the control unit to the motor. The leads show no power. Is this the resistors or the relay? if it is the relay where is at?
Douglas -
The motor may be going bad, which can damage the relay.
The relay should be in the engine compartment fuse relay box or the fuse box by the drivers side kick panel. You will be able to hear/feel the relay click when the blower is turned (use this method to locate the relay if the relays are not labeled). You can swap a matching relay for test purposes.
If you need further assistance or a wiring diagram let me know.
Subaru EJ20T motor cuts out when turbo boosts up. Idling, non turbo running and motor functions OK apart from lifter noise. Can you advise what may be the problem
Bruce Kit -
Subaru's have a common cutting out/hesitation
problem becaise of engine noise,The knock sensor hears the lifter noise, interprets it as a knock, and reduces the timing.It is a concern with quiet lifters, and a big concern with noisy lifters.
Check for TSB's (tech service bulletens)from Subaru and get lifters fixed,
Shifts out of 4th on highway and will not shift back up again. When you let off gas rpm goes to idle. If you put it third rpm drops only 300 to 400 when you let off gas - this is normal. Last transmission did same thing and eventually failed with a bad pump.
Douglas -
Hello,
Was this a new or used transmission?
Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?
Does the transmission downshift or effectively shift to neutral?
New User -
It is a used transmission.
The power light for the transmission blinks 16 times when you start the car. A Subaru mechanic said that this means there is an error code that can be read. I will be having the error code on this one read soon.
When you downshift to 3rd gear at speed, you see no difference in rpm. If you let rpm fall in 4th, you will see it come back up in 3rd. Neutral is fine.
Douglas -
Okay the trans controller has recognized a problem and is flashing a code.
I'll see if have or can find information on deciphering the codes without a scanner.
New User -
An auto repair place read the code and said it was "overdrive".
Douglas -
Overdrive solenoid?
New User -
No. He said it was "Overdrive Switch".
Did you find out anything about the 16 blinks?
Douglas -
If his scanner would read the codes it should be accurate. I cannot find a listing in the aftermarket for the switch, must be a dealer only item.
New User -
There is no such part. I am looking for info outside of what I already know to help me fix this problem.
Roger -
Hello, I would like to try and help you. What series Legacy is your car? L, LS, LSi, Sport?
Diagnostic code charts do not list sixteen blinks. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 23, 24, 25, 31, 32, 33.
Have you tried clearing the code to see what resets? Previous fault codes can be cleared by removing No. 14 fuse from fuse panel located behind the hood release. Clearing memory requires fused to be removed for one minute.
Please advise,
Roger
Roger -
Hello? I'd like to help you here.
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
My legaacy is an LSi model.
I cannot tell which fuse is #14 as there are no numbers.
Look at picture of fuse cover at skenney.com/fuse.jpg
It is blurry because I only have a cell phone camera right now.
Roger -
Middle Row at the top is fuse # 14 EGI Unit, AT Unit (10 amp).
Using your pic:
Fuses are numbered from bottom to top beginning on the left 1-7, midddle 8-14, right 15-21.
Roger
New User -
After clearing code, most of the time I started the car the power light did not flash. But it did come up once in a while. Tranny worked ok for one or two days, but it was about 30 degrees cooler than before. I think it is heat related. Now after a few days it is coming up more often. See video at skenney.com/pwrlite.mpg to see if this is 16 counts.
Roger -
I watched your video of the blinking light.
When the key is first turned ON the instrument panel performs a light bulb test. You will also see the tach needle move slightly.
After the light bulb test the light turns off. Then it flashes eleven times and stops. See if when you watch the video you can agree with my assessment of eleven flashes.
I have a diagnostic proceedure for a Code 11 I will send to you for your review.
May I have your email address please?
Roger
New User -
skenney.com/pwrlite.MOV is the actual file from my camera. In converting to mpg some time was chopped off. There are only 11 in the mpg file.
My email address is [redacted]
Just out of curiosity, send info on 11 flashes.
Since the previous transmission, which was a replacement also, showed the same symptoms as this one, there is a probable cause outside the transmission itself.
Roger -
I'll send the file I assembled.
Roger
New User -
Is there an overdrive solenoid in this transmission?
Can you think of any causes outside of the transmission itself?
Roger -
Yes, there is a "Lock-Up Solenoid" controlled by the Transmission Control Unit. (TCU)
On the TCU, connector "C" terminal 5 Red/White Wire runs from the TCU to the A/T Control terminal 6.
You stated that the previous tranny had the same problem before you installed this one. Is it reasonable to believe that were the cause external to the transmission that replacing said tranny would result in immediate repaet of the problem?
Have I misunderstood that the current trans worked all right for some time? How long before the failure reoccured?
Roger
New User -
Both were faulty right away. Sometimes it works ok for miles before the problem shows up
Roger -
The trans that came out had the problem so it was replaced. The replacement trans had the same problem immediately but the problem will come and go...did I get that right?
How do the terminals for the wiring connector to the trans look? Anything strange there? If wiring and connectors look fine have you considered the TCU may have an internal problem?
It would take a high end scanner to monitor the trans when the condition is present to see if the TCU gives the correct commands to the trans and see if the feedback circuits have reported the correct result.
Roger
New User -
Last tranny had same problem. The error code read on that one was something like speed sensor circuit. Replacing speed sensor did not help. Then the pump went bad and so the tranny had to be replaced.
Both had the overdrive problem, but it do not just come and go exactly. When you start with a cols tranny it works fine. At some point at highway speed when it is warm enough it loses overdrive and it stays lost as long as you drive. If you put tranny in neutral and turn off engine, restart and put back in drive, the problem may go away for a while. If you come to a stop it may go away for a while. When cold it stays away longer.
Roger -
Have you completed any of the Code 11 diagnostic proceedures for voltage/resistance values?
Roger
New User -
The Code 11 does not apply to me. The video at skenney.com/pwrlite.MOV shoews 16 blinks. The first video you looked at showed only 11 because it was truncated when I converted it to mpg.
The Lock-Up Solenoid you metioned is probaly to lock or unlock the locking torque converter. If it goes unlocked by mistake the rpm only increases by 200 to 300. This finction works ok when overdrive is working.
Roger -
There is no diagnostic code for 16 flashes. See code list from previous post.
If the first time you see the light come on is the light bulb test, then 15 flashes would come up.
Code 15 indicates the output signal circuit for shift solenoid "1" is open or shorted causing "No shift". What the?..doesn't figure here...
Different approach:
If when the condition is present it were said there was no shift from 3rd to 4th gear diagnosis would call for checking:
1. Check control unit
2. 3R accumulator
3. ATF temperature sensor
4. Shift solenoid No.3
5. Control valve
6. Hand brake
What type fluid is used in this trans? Wrong fluid causes converter lock up troubles and other symptoms.
Were the trans coolers and lines flused per service bulletin proceedures? Flushing machines and alternate proceedures do not have the power to dislodge contaminates from OEM coolers.
We have both given this alot of thought and time. It would take a high end scanner to monitor the trans when the condition is present to see if the TCU gives the correct commands to the trans and see if the feedback circuits have reported the correct result.
I no longer see this as a DIY repair at home unless you have access to serious diagnostic testing tools.
Tried to run an inverter from cigar lighter socket and it took the aircon control panel out. Have checked every fuse under the bonnet and inside the car, and also changed aircon relays. Noted that there was a brief display on the control panel as the ignition switch was turned off which seemed to coincide with a relay clicking under the dash.
Douglas -
Check the wires to see if any melted near the cigar lighter. Did you check fuses with a test light or voltmeter? That is the proper way, make sure there is voltage on both sides of the fuse. Also, look near the battery cables for fusible links that may have burned.
1990 Subaru Legacy Engine Chugging Happens always When warm
New User Asked -
My car will miss a little at idle. When the car is warm, the engine misfires terribly. After putting a timing light on each of the cylnders, found ignition tming to be "variable". It randomly misfires or doesn't fire. I have checked the following parts for correct function by replacing the TPS, ECU, TCU, MAF, and the coil. Tried cooling the cam sensor and housing to troubleshoot it. Didn't work. I'm about to pull my hair out on this thing. Could it be the ignitor? Im totally lost...doesn't this problem have to lie in the ignition system somewhere???
macconeck -
I would check for a collapsed lifter bent rod or rocker or worn or loose timing belt tensioner it does not sound like a ignition problem
New User -
I just had the top-end rebuilt, valve guides, cylinders polished, etc. and each cylinder checks out at 175 psi....there aren't any valve or internal problems
macconeck -
but did you check for a collapsed lifter bent rod or rocker or worn or loose timing belt tensioner it even in the midst of the rebuild youy could still have a problem with the things I mentioned it still does not sound like a ignition problem
New User -
If it is "not an ignition problem" why does the car wait until its at operating temperature to misfire so severly?
What parts of the interior engine would only stop working at operating temperature...?
macconeck -
good question I missed that fact but what about the timing
Douglas -
Was the problem present before having the top end rebuilt?
Does it only misfire at idle?
New User -
Yes it was running too rich before I had the top end rebuilt. It runs rich at any speed once the engine is warm.
Douglas -
When the engine is warm and it's dark out, look under the hood to see if any of the plugs wires or coil is leaking voltage.
What is the condition of the spark plugs. Are they burning clean, black sooty deposits (if yes, all the plugs?), any plugs with an unusual white appearance (lean hot condition)?
New User -
No voltage leaks are visible. All plugs are black and soot covered...probably a little too black for normal...definately not firing "too hot".
Douglas -
Sorry I missed your reply. Where do you stand now with the car?
New User -
Im still baffled because I can't figure out why it runs too rich when it gets up to operating temperature...
Douglas -
Troubleshoot the rich condition.
Inspect for any vacuum leaks. All vacuum hoses, intake gasket, etc.
Check fuel pressure. Also check the fuel pressure regulator which if leaking or inoperative (high fuel pressure) will cause a rich condition.
Check the CTS (coolant temp sensor) which may be telling the ECU that the engine is cold. A cold engine requires more fuel. If the coolant sensors signal to the ECU indicates a cold (when it is indeed warm/hot) engine it will run rich.
1990 Subaru Legacy Engine Stalling Happens always When warm
New User Asked -
My car will miss a little at idle. When the car is warm, the engine misfires terribly. After putting a timing light on each of the cylnders, found ignition tming to be "variable". It randomly misfires or doesn't fire. I have checked the following parts for correct function by replacing the TPS, ECU, TCU, MAF, and the coil. Tried cooling the cam sensor and housing to troubleshoot it. Didn't work. I'm about to pull my hair out on this thing. Could it be the ignitor? Im totally lost...doesn't this problem have to lie in the ignition system somewhere???"
I just had the top-end rebuilt, valve guides, cylinders polished, etc. and each cylinder checks out at 175 psi....there aren't any valve or internal problems.
What parts of the interior engine would only stop working at operating temperature...?
encsisme -
I dont think your problem is interior to the engine. It sounds like you have done a lot of work. Let me ask you some questions and we can go from there.. Where did you get the replacement parts (ecu, tcu (would not effect engine run at all), Maf and coil)? It sounds like you have a coil that is breaking down intermittently, possibly an Idle Air Control (IAC) that is failing and finally the EGR (if still installed) might be sticking. I would like to find where you got the parts and we can go from there. AL
encsisme -
Have you been able to nail down the failing component? Let me know. AL
1990 Subaru Legacy Fuel System Happens always Always
New User Asked -
my car when turned on, will start ok, then the idle jumps, and falls up, and down then dies. if you press on the gas it hessitates then takes off , but tries to die. it seems like it is having a hard time getting fuel to the engine.
macconeck -
Check your fuel pump as it may be failing. Also, check your fuel pressure regulator as it may be leaking raw fuel into the engine.
or a possible idle speed control motor problem will cause these symptoms
1990 Subaru Legacy All Part Groups Failing Happens always Always
Ryuga Asked -
The problem that I have with my car, is that both the speedometer and odometer do not work. I had a friend of my father's take a look at it, and he said that it could be something in dash. What is the problem, and how one would go about fixing it?
Roger -
Hi, What engine and transmission does this car have, please?
I need to check and see if your speedometer is electronic, or cable driven.
If cable driven it could be a plastic gear the cable plugs into at the transmission has bad gear teeth, i.e. stripped. Or, the cable has broken.
If the speedometer is electronic there is a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VPS) that has failed or become disconnected.
Please advise,
Roger
Ryuga -
The engine is a 2.2L 4cyl engine, and it has an automatic transmission.
Roger -
Thank you for your patience.
Your car has a cable driven mechanical speedometer and odometer.
To begin diagnosis see if you can locate the speedometer cable coming out of the firewall and running a path to where it connects to the automatic transmission. The cable end will have a metal screw-on connector. Unscrew the cable from the transmission and inspect for abnormal signs of twisting. If the speedometer has locked up the cable can twist in two.
If the cable looks fine, can you turn it counter clockwise with a cordless drill and will the speedometer work with the drill as a drive? Yes? Replace the gear inside the case that the speedometer connected to. No? Remove the speedometer for repair by a shop specializing in instruments.
1990 Subaru Legacy Heating / Cooling System Making Noise Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
When I turn on the heat or air conditioning I get a loud clicking and loss of power to the car. Replaced power relay as could feel relay clicking in the hand. Is sporadic but once clicking and power loss begin it is continuous until turn heat/air off. Also just replaced alternator. Any suggestions?
Douglas -
Where is the clicking coming from?
Try unplugging the blower motor and turning on the heater fan. See if this stops clicking and power loss. It seems like the blower motor may be shorting. It is possible you have a problem with the air condition compressor, this only applies if the problem occurs when the compressor clutch is activated. YOu could confirm or eliminate this as the cause by unplugging the electrical connector to the air conditioning compressor and trying the heater again.
New User -
the clicking is coming from the power relay that connects the air conditioning. when unplugged the sound goes away. The air conditioning doesn't work but the heater does. If I leave the relay unplugged is there any damage this could cause to car or the heater components?
Douglas -
My guess at this point is the problem is with the A/C clutch and/or circuit. Are you saying the A/C doesn't work only when the relay is unplugged or doesn't work regardless?
New User -
Just when the relay is unplugged. If the relay is plugged in and the AC is on or the heater is on then I get the loss of power to the car and the clicking noise. When the relay is unplugged the heater works, there is no loss of power, and there is no clicking noise however the AC doesn't work, which is fine with me because I live in Alaska so don't use the AC much. However the loss of power with the heater on and the relay plugged in is a problem so since everything works when the relay is unplugged except the AC is it okay to leave it unplugged or could it cause damage to other parts of the heater/ac system?
Douglas -
It can cause no damage to the heater/ac. Just as long as the car runs fine, no check engine, the cooling fan continues to work, and the heater functions (you'll need that in Alaska)-- no problem.
You still could unplug the electrical connector to the AC compressor and see if this stops the clicking, although it is not necessary at this point.
I would say the only way you are likely to experience further failure/damage is by leaving the relay in. Be sure to give me an update.
1990 Subaru Legacy All Part Groups Chugging Happens always Always
New User Asked -
My car began to idle roguhly. I had a mechanic look at it. he tuned it and cleaned the fuel injection system. it ran well for about two weeks and after stoppeing to get gas one evening, the next morning I started it up and it began to run roughly like it was going to stall out. The engine lite comes on when it is running and will sometimes go off and on, mostly on. I have driven it short distances to take the grand kids to school. It feels rough and will almost stall out when I come to a stop. If I put it in park and rev it up, it seems to run ok. But when it throttles down it is rough. It has 200,000 miles but has been well maintained. I love the car it is a wagon. Have any ideas?
Douglas -
Are both performance problems the same, the previous problem and the one you are experiencing now?
Will you be attempting to troubleshoot and repair yourself?
Is there any black smoke from the exhaust?
How much do you have to raise the rpm's to get the engine to run better, and does it run great at higher rpm's?
New User -
Doug, I am not sure I got yhr response correctly to you, so I will try again. Both performance problems are the same. I may repair it myself and my son. No black smoke. I raise the RPM's about have way between number 1 and 2 on the dash. Now this will blow your mind. After sending you my question, I went out to pick up the kids and the car ran fine. Now before I had it tuned, I would have the problem and I could get it the car later and it would be fine. Then later it could start again. Could it be an electrical problem. ?? It almost seems like when you would leave the clutch out on a standrd shit car and it would chug. Confusing? My gut tells me it could be electrical.
Douglas -
The first thing that should be done is to have the trouble codes accessed. I don't recall if there is a self diagnostic procedure for your 90 Subaru. Use the following link to access a repair guide that'll contain instructions for trouble codes. Once you access the repair guide the information should be under the "Emissions" section of the repair guide. Let me know which codes you find.
BTW- If you are unfamiliar with trouble codes, these are electrical faults the computer recognizes in sensors, actuators, or circuits to sensors and actuators.
1990 Subaru Legacy Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
New User Asked -
My dash lights are lighting up when I am driving. These are the the lights that come on if you turn the ignition to on but do not turn the engine (check engine, battery, oil, etc.).
When I am driving they just come on all of sudden and then after I sort of tap the gas pedal a few times they go off aqain. The car has not stalled so far. I live in Anchorage, Alaska and this has begun with the cold weather.
Thank you
Paul
Douglas -
This is most likely caused by a faulty ignition switch (not to be confused with the lock cylinder). Wiggling the key while idling may reproduce the problem.
New User -
Thanks for your reply.
If it is the ignition switch as you say, why does it seem to be affected by my hitting the gas pedal?
Douglas -
Okay, try pulling on the wiring harness underhood to see if you can recreate the problem. The idea is to wiggle wires in the same manner that they would be stretched when the engine and transmission flex when you hit the gas. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.
My fuel pump turns on when the key is on, so I disconnected the supply fuel line before the fuel filter and cranked the engine and no fuel came out, does this mean the fuel pump is dead or the lines are clogged? Any suggestions.
Douglas -
If the fuel pump runs AND there is no fuel coming through the line the pump is dead/ or the inlet is clogged, a line is kinked/damaged, or the tank is empty.
Make sure you have the hose connected to a sealed container (no risk of a spark igniting raw fuel), and see if fuel comes out when you first turn the key on.
My 1990 legacy was running great. It was side-swiped. I replaced the driver's door and left front fender and left front tire. It still ran well. The car was in the body shop for painting about a week. Now, it will not go into "passing gear", shifts into 4th gear only when the speed reaches 65 MPH, other shifts are harsh, and half the time it doesn't drop out of 4th gear when you stop. Have changed the fluid and filter, tried another TPS and Transmission ECU.
kaptnzog -
When you changed the tire, did you check for any possible hidden damage to the drive axle around the tranny?
New User -
The rim had a large "bend" in it and the tire was blown out and deformed. I looked the area over, but did not see anything else. What should I have looked for? Thanks for replying.
kaptnzog -
Another question is how does it steer going down the road? Does it pull, steering wheel crooked etc? Its posible the suspension was damaged causing the drive axle to jamb into the tranny. Look for signs of movement on suspension components. Crack in the paint or road film on the parts are a good indication of damage. Look around the area where the axle goes into the tranny for any signs of damage or oil leakage. Turn the wheels to the straight ahead position and see if the steering wheel is stright.
New User -
No sir, there is no indication from the way the car steers that it was ever in an accident. It does not pull. There are no leaks from the transaxle. Nothing appears bent or anything amiss. As I stated earlier, until I picked it up from being painted, the car had shifted like it had before the accident. Of course, it had only been driven less that fifteen miles (from the time of the wrecker bringing it home until picked up from the bodyshop).
Bruce Kit -
See if there is a vacuum modulator on the transmission. If so equipped, the modulator controls shifting firmness.See if the hose is disconnected .
New User -
No. This model does not appear to have a modulator. I have been told it is entirely computer controlled. The thing is, I have also been told that there are numerous sensors that the tranny relies on to determine what it should be doing. I have no idea what sensor to look at first. That was why I tried a TPS, since it was the easiest to get to. My Haynes repair manuel says that there should be a speed sensor on top of the tranny. But If it's there, I haven't been able to find it. Thanks for the suggestion.
My car is a 1990 Legacy L AWD. Automatic transmission does not shift from first to second and third to fourth correctly. When I come to a stop and try to go again it tries to start out in second gear then down shifts into first. Then while up-shifting from second, it goes into fourth then, down-shifts into third. Also, I have no power to rear wheels, front wheel drive only. email:simpsonk74@peoplepc.com
Douglas -
Hello,
I want you to start by checking (transmission module) trouble codes--
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html
Copy the above link into your address bar for instructions on code retrieval. Hopefully it is something minor, like a speed sensor.
New User -
There are no trouble codes. Power light blinks in 1/4 second increments.
New User -
"There are no trouble codes. Power light blinks in 1/4 second increments."
Douglas -
All you can really do at this point is check fuses and wiring to the transmission and module. Anything further would require a scan tool or swapping parts (acceptable if you have a parts car).
Also, many transmission shops (most AAMCO) offer free diagnosis. They could diagnose the problem then you could repair.
This way to the live technicians