Subaru Outback

2001 Subaru Outback Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When braking 

I have replaced pads on my Buick in the past with ease. I am mechanically inclined but was wondering if their is any thing I need to look out for when replacing the front pads on my 2001 outback wagon. The brake light in the dash has just come on after 63,000 miles. Will the light go out when the pads are replaced or will I need to use some type of code provided by the dealer?
Thanks for your help

First of all check your fluid level in the master cylinder. If it is too low, it will cause the brk light to come on.Does this vehicle have ABS? If so it could be an ABS sensor.Is the brk.light that comes on yellow or red in colour? Also it could be your emergency brk. switch is malfunctioning, try the e-brk to make sure it is fully disengaged. These are just some of the solutions that I can think of at the moment. Back to the master cylinder, usually if you top up the master cylinder the light will go out, but also remember, when you go to change your pads, when you push the caliper pistons back in, the master cylinder reservoir will fill back up again!!! Good Luck!! Cheers!

Has your problem/question been fixed/answered? Could you please settle your account so it can be closed. Thanks in advance.

2001 Subaru Outback Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

The brake light and battery light came on, and the steering wheel is really hard to turn. The car is idling loud, too. Help.

The first thing I would check is the condition of the fan belt ... if slipping It can cause lights on dash to light up, as well as the power assist on the steering to fail, resulting in hard steering.
A loud noise (rxhaust sound) might be a cracked exhaust manifold. Not unusual, and if that is the case, you might want to replace the cast iron manifolds with a stainless steel header from a supplier such as BORLA. A header will outlast a cast manifold, as well as give the Subaru better economy and more power.

2001 Subaru Outback Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Hello
All of a sudden the light for the Emergency Brake has lit up for no reason (red exclamation mark in a circle). It is pretty much on all the time (and no, the brake isn't on).
Is this a problem with my brakes? Or my EBrake? Or is this a common eletrical problem with this model. I have noticed that my "check engine" light is on periodically and have had it checked and they say everything is fine.
I replaced the alternator about 4 years ago, so I don't think it's an eletrical problem.
Any suggestions?

Hello, Have you checked the brake fluid level? If low, the brake warning light will come on. If the fluid level is found to be low don't just top it off without first inspecting the brake pads for wear. Replace if needed.

The "Check Engine" light on means the engine is not meeting the emissions standard by which it was certified for production. If you can go by an auto parts national chain store that will read the codes for you try to resist turning the engine off while the CE light is on. Write down the codes and we can get a path to make the repair diagnosis.

Questions?,

Roger

Hi Roger
I had the brakes done last year. I'm not sure if they did all 4 though.
I'm not sure I understand what I need to do regarding the CE light...? Do I need to go to a Subaru dealer? Or do I need to go to a garage to check the actual emmisions output? I have this scheduled for Jan 2011.
Thank you
Cheryl

Cheryl, the CE light is not an urgent issue unless the light flashes continually while the engine runs.

A Subaru dealer will charge you to read the codes even if you do not have anything else done.

Try calling a national chain auto parts store and ask if they read codes at no charge to you. Hopefully you won't be on the phone long before you find a store that will do this for you. They will not clear the codes due to liability issues but at this point we don't want the codes cleared.

A good mechanic would have inspected all four brakes last year when you had brake work done. What I hope to convey to you is that the brake warning light could be on for reasons such as low fluid, perhaps a defective resivoir fluid level warning switch, a warning switch out of adjustment for the park brake, or if lots of city driving is normal use for your car the brake pads will wear faster. The quality of the brake pads used could factor as well.

I don't think you need to make an unscheduled trip to have the emissions evaluated on your car.

Having the codes read will guide us what to look into and control cost.

Roger

Ok thank you Roger
Is it ok if I keep this open until I have everything checked?
Cheers
Cheryl

Yes of course. When you have something to share just give me an update.

Thanks,

Roger

Hi, Any news here? I thought I'd check in with you.

Roger

Hi Roger
I finally topped up the brake fluid and the light went off instantly. Phewff!
Thank you so much for your help.
c

Thank you for the update. To close this question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

2000 Subaru Outback Engine Vibration When idling When warm 

dealer put computer on car and found code PO301- misfire on cylinder 1. Said to change plugs and wires so I did and check engine light still stays on and engine continues to vibrate

1. Check for adequate spark to the #1 cylinder using a spark tester. Do you remember if the #1 plug was especially dirty, clean, or colored differently than the other plugs.

2. Check fuel injector for the #1 cylinder

3. Check cylinder compression

If there was no change in the way the engine runs, the engine light will stay on as the fault is still detected.
If the plugs and wires were overdue to be changed in the first place, this would be an acceptable starting point. But, for the amount you likely paid it should of included complete diagnosis. Diagnosis that would pinpoint the problem instead of giving the most likely cause.

In the future you can visit Autozone, Advance Auto, etc and have the fault codes pulled from the computer free of charge. Call ahead to be sure they offer the service. Always write down the code# they give, this is more helpful than their description of the fault.

I just reviewed the advice given and fully agree with it. It is very hard to troubleshoot an engine from a description.. but you have a great direction to start with.. also I recomment checking the coil to Nr1 cylinder. (Another free service of Autozone or Advance Auto)

2000 Subaru Outback Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

We own a 2000 Subaru Outback with 244,000kms. We had the alternator replaced June 10th. Drove from Ontario to Alberta June 12-15th, no problem. First week of July, stalled out with same symtoms as when alternator died- chungs a few times, gauges stop working, all power drains, then quits with-in a minute, will not restart. Had battery boosted the following day and ran for 3 days fine. Then happened again. Stopped using air conditioner, checked and cleaned all fuses and it has run fine until two days ago- Oct 15th (3 1/2 months). They boosted it today and seems to be running fine again. Checked battery and it is good ( 13.54V), only a year and a half old. Cranking normal 12.14V, charging system idle volt 14.54V, load volt 14.45V. We are stumped??

You need to monitor voltage more closely. If you have a spare cord for the cigar lighter/accesories receptacle, tap the wires on this so you can monitor voltage. You already know charging voltage and battery voltage. When charging voltage drops off-

Is the voltage at 12.X and slowly decreases? If yes the alternator is most likely at fault.

If voltage instantly drops below 12 volts, say from 14.4 to 11.2, you may have a short.

Is the alternator under warranty?

DOn't overlook connections on the alternator and battery.

It's hard to monitor the voltage because the car always dies in busy traffic, only giving us 1-2 minutes to make some quick decisions. The last time it died right in the middle of a busy intersection and had to be pushed out of the way. We have no warranty on the alternator and was purchased/installed in Ontario- we now live in Northern Alberta. Do you know anything about recalls? Our mechanic says there may be a recall on the ECM for intermittent stalling.

Below is a Subaru document on the ECM reprogramming. Subaru claims this problem will not cause any performance issues.

Engine Control Module (ECM) Reprogramming

Service Program Bulletin WWF-89
Subject: Engine Control Module (ECM) Reprogramming

Bulletin Description: Subaru of America, Inc. (SOA) has determined that some affected vehicles listed below may require ECM reprogramming. The ECM logic for the air/fuel ratio circuit may not be broad enough to accept the signal parameters of the A/F ratio sensor. Should the A/F ratio sensor signal repeatedly fluctuate beyond the parameters of the ECM logic, the CHECK ENGINE warning light / Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will illuminate steadily while the engine is running, advising the driver of a malfunction and the need to seek repair service. Reprogramming the ECM will broaden the allowable A/F ratio signal parameters and correct this condition.----

YOu should call your subaru dealer and have them run your VIN (vehicle id number) to see if there are any active recalls on your vehicle. Recalls vary on things like productions date, assembly plant, region, etc so it's necessary to have the dealer run you VIN. This is something they have to do for you, at least in the US. Canada appears to have strict emmissions laws also- so it likely apply there. You can view a list of recalls at the following site-

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/diagnosticsHome.jsp

Place your cursor over REFERENCE PUBLICATIONS a select your model. Once you get to the documents you wish to view click on the question mark for a summary.

If this problem comes on with little or no warning something must be shorting causing a massive drain to the system. The warning signs of an alternator not working would be the lights would slowly get dimmer, wipers slow, radio sounds strange, heater blower slows, etc. If everthing is fine and has full power until a minute before it quits it should not be terribly hard for a mechanic to find.

1999 Subaru Outback Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I have a vibration (I want to say wheel bearing or brake vibration, but with AWD I don't know). The vibration is constant and related to speed, not engine. If I put the transmission in neutral at speed, the vibration remains.

When I turn left, it gets louder. When I turn right, it gets softer. It seems to be a front end (maybe right wheel) vibration, though I'm starting to hear a softer,deeper vibration in the rear. The front brakes were recently done, and the rotors were turned at that time...

When I brake, it doesn't change the vibration at all.

The tires are fairly new and they were balanced and aligned at that time (two months before the vibration appeared). The lug nuts are all tight and the tires are all at 35 psi.

You might have lost a weight or two on the wheels. Examine carefull to see if there are marks from missing weights.
Rotate tires front to rear, that will eliminate tire problem.
Check all cv joints and U Joints
If you can run your outback with tires in air, it might help

Hello, I recommend you have the right front hub bearing looked at. When you turn left the vehicle weight shifts to the right and places more load on the bearing. That is why the noise increases.

This can be a serious safety issue. Don't wait.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Is there any way I can check this myself? Perhaps by raising the front and manually seeing if the wheel has any 'play'?

I have felt the alloy rims after driving to see if one was hotter than the other... I can't detect any difference. I figured that the friction caused by a failing bearing would heat up the whole rim--wouldn't it?

I can take the car in to a tire shop and have them check ift if not...

Are you comfortable replacing the front hub and bearing assembly?

You can support the right front suspension, remove the wheel and look for metal filings around the area of the bearing. You may not be able to feel wear in the bearing even with the wheel still on.

I recommend a road test with a Shop Foreman to get some perspective and an estimate of repair costs. It makes sense to know that the bearing is at fault and the CV joint is okay.

Roger

1999 Subaru Outback Drive Train / Driveline   

Light on the dash flashes, "at oil temp". Car seems to drive fine, I have checked the fluid and it is clean and full. I understand that this is a overheating or electrical problem, but how do I find out

What engine do you have?

1999 Subaru Outback All Part Groups   

i just bought a 1999 subaru legacy outback yesterday with 97K miles on it from a private party. I test drove it in town and on the highway and it ran smooth with no noticeable problems. i drove it 80 miles up the highway this morning to my house and everything seemed to be running right. When i got into town and driving around 20 mph it started to make a clanking or knocking sound. when i brake or accelerate it goes away, and when i'm stopped or idling it is also quiet. It seems to only happen when i'm coasting at a slow speed or lightly on the gas. I'm stressing out.

Hello
From what you are saying I gather its doing this at low rpms. Does the engine feel like its going to quit? If you get a chance in park with foot on brake of course slowly rev engine to about 3500 rpm if any hesitations I would personally think of giving it a tune up. Spark plugs, spark plug wires, even go has far as new distributer cap.
Heavychevy

Thanks, i revved the engine in park and it didn't make the clanking sound at all. It did start to shake around 2500 rpms and then subsided and ran smooth at about 2800 rpms. are there other tests i can do myself?

I would do the tune up with it shaking in park it will be icreased with the strain of having to pull the car while in gear causing the engine to clank. More or less you are putting a bigger strain on the engine while trans is in gear than in park. So tune up would be my choice.

As far as anymore tests, take the plugs out and look at them also take the distributer cap off and look at it (cracks, corrosion, and wear) same with the wires. Also tonight while its dark open hood while car is running and look for any shorts near the wires.

Heavychevy

i've scheduled an appointment to get it checked out on monday. can i drive it until then or should i stay off? also, is it possible that a loose drive shaft is creating the clicking sound? thanks

I wouldnt drive far with it acting up (around 10-15 miles) It is possible to be the cv joint. If it is it would be making a clicking sound while turning or sharp curves it would be more of a poping noice sorta as if you were poping your knuckles, and you would be able to feel it in the steering wheel.
heavychevy

.

hey, i brought it in on monday and it it turns out that when the previous owner got the tires rotated they forgot to tighten the lug nuts. the shop said they were finger tight and that one wheel was damn close to falling off. i'd never heard of that before and didn't thinking of looking for it. pretty simple fix though.

also, my speedometer comes in and out. sometimes it works, sometimes not. sometimes i start the car and it works fine for a while, then shuts off. other times, when i start the car, it doesn't work and then kicks in. any ideas?

Dang never would of thought that. Sounds like a loose wire behind the speedometer somewhere best bet is to get ohm meter and check all wires. Also check connection where it connects to tranny to see if tight.
Heavychevy

..

1999 Subaru Outback Electrical / Lighting Systems   

low beam are out. The high beams still work. I got one of the low beams to work for a while, but now it is out again. Any ideas.

What engine do you have?
what did you do to get the one side working temporarily?
did you wiggle some wires?
change out a fuse>
i need to know where you are at?

I have the 4 cylinder engine. I wiggled the wires to the bulb, then let my hood drop. The next thing that I noticed was the drivers side working again. Wiggling the wires later did not help. Nor did dropping the hood.
I did not check the fuses. I think the headlight fuses is in the engine compartment, correct?
Tom

I am going to look for a schematic for your car.
Do you have a email address I can send it to?

Thank you.
My e-mail address: [redacted]

I cannot find the Diagram and will release this ouestion so someone else can help you

Thank you for trying.
Tom

The fuses will be located in the interior fuse box there is a relay in the engine compartment fuse box.
I do not think it is a fuse issue.
Look why don't you pull the lamps and spray the connectors with a electronic parts cleaner (radio shack has a good product) and that should take care of any dirty connections if that is the problem.
If that does not solve it then check for power at the lamp connector while the light switch is on and also wiggle the high beam switch to see if it is malfunctioning.
I hope this helps

Thanks. I will get back to you tomorrow.

OK

So, I went to the car to dutifully clean the contacts and in pulling out the bulb, I saw the filament of each low beam burned through. A simple replacement solved the problem. Having replaced the drivers side bulb last year and with the re-igniting of the bulb after it went dark threw me into thinking it wasn't the bulb. Thank you for your time.

I am glad to hear that you got it repairs
Filaments have been known to reconnect sometimes from shakes or vibrations.
you are welcome

1999 Subaru Outback Drive Train / Driveline   

1999 Legacy Outback: When the automatic transmission shifts into drive very slowly,the speedometer works, and when it shifts normally, the speedometer doesn't work. When driving, at times the speedometer appears to be turning on and shutting off; the needle goes up and down.

Start by checking the connector on the transmission, also inspect wiring in this area for rub throughs, etc.

Does the check engine light come at anytime while the engine is running?

The check engine light does not come on.

How long has this been going on, at some point I'd expect the engine light to turn on as the computer (PCM) recognizes a problem with the speedometer ciruit.

Do check the connectors and wiring around the transmission, starting at the speed sensor (located on output of trans).

Douglas, since the check engine light does not come on, is there something else I should check?

Douglas, could the speed sensor itself be at fault?

It could be in the speedometer/cluster area also. Unfortunately a professional scan may be required to access body codes (which set but do not turn on the check engine light). Do check what you can for physical damage, it could save you a trip to the shop.

I assume this has been going on for a while.

Yes, it has taken some time to see the interaction between the speedometer and the shifting. Is the speed sensor the front or rear sensor on the transmission?

I missed your other question, yes it could be the speed sensor, although it should set a code. Do you have a code reader?

If not go to autzone or advance auto and have them check for codes, free service. Note- for some reason the clerks' think they cannot check codes unless the light is on, this is not true. Ask them to check codes anyways and look for 'pending' codes. These are codes that will set in time if the comptuter continues to see a problem with them.

Is the speed sensor the rear or front sensor on the transmission?

It has two speed sensors.

Go to the following site to download a completer parts manual for your car-

http://pdftown.com/Pdf-eBook/Subaru.html

Let me know if this works for you.

Also, a check revealed the speedometer head is known to be problematic on these vehicles.

Thanks, I'll get back to you after I have a chance to check on the leads you have given me.

1998 Subaru Outback Fuel System   

If idling under 1000 rpm, engine will sputter if I engage the throttle. Sometimes I have to disengage throttle and reengage just to get it moving. I have replaced fuel filter, spark plugs & plug cables. Check engine light is not on and I only have this problem if idling under 1000 rpm. ???

Does it still happen if you floor the accelerator (in park or a safe environment only!)?

The throttle angle sensor (TPS) can cause this problem but is difficult to accurately test (a multimeter can be used to ohm test the sensor and will sometimes catch a bad sensor).

This problem happens mostly during fast (which isn't that fast with these engines) acceleration. While revving in park is when it is most notable.

In shade/darkness check the coils to see if they are arcing (or the new plug wires especially if aftermarket). You will have to rev the engine to reproduce the problem-- USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS.

Let us know what this reveals.

1997 Subaru Outback Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

For last 5 winters: when temp below +10 F deg. won't start, unless Gas line anti-freeze was previoulsy added to fuel.
This year won't start if temp below +18 deg. F even though gas line anti freeze was added. Temp last 3 mornings -30 F. high -15 F.
Do have fuel engine side of fuel filter, but not getting spark.
Replaced wires and plugs. Checked primary and secondary resistance at coil both O.K.. Still no spark.
How do we find and check the Crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, thermal sensor or ignitor?
Any ideas what it might be? Thanks

Here is a page that should assist you.

http://www.endwrench.com/archive/syselec.html

Some autparts stores offer free off vehicle testing of electrical parts. Autozone for example. But call ahead to confirm.

An ohm meter reading is the first check I perform on crank and cam sensors. Don't be concerned about the exact reading, just look for an open or shorted sensor.

It was a high of -10 F here (ny).

1997 Subaru Outback Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I have always had a problem with the front end and steering on my Outback Legacy- when turned far to the left or right, it seems to bind. I have changed tires, aligned the front end, replaced both axles, gotten brakes, etc.
I took it to two shops, niehter of whom could solve it. One suggeste that it is a transmission problem, e.g. the transfer case, but no one else agrees because the car seems okay when driving straight. However, I have pointed out to everyone I ask that it feels as though the 4WD is always engaged.
Now it has started to vibrate when turned far to the right or left, and it feels as though there is a grind too. I thought the axles would solve it, but no luck. Any suggestions?

Hello, It may be transfer case clutch binding.

May I send you a Technical Service Bulletin on the subject? I'll need your email address please.

Roger

1996 Subaru Outback Engine Chugging Happens sometimes No pattern

Sometimes runs very rough(2-3 minutes at a time), missing a lot, often (not always) goes away after thouroughly warmed (15 minutes).

My outback had a very similar symptom about 2 years ago, and a place said vacuum leak and fixed it, and it ran good for a year.

This time I took it to dealer, and they said tuneup, ran ok for a day or two, but no change in problem. Then "catylitic converter" -- $1100. Ran ok for a week, same problem came back. "Faulty spark plug", ok for 3-4 days.
"New spark plug wires", ok for 3-4 days. So they didn't fix it, though I suggested possible vacuum leak. Is this likely? What is likely?

Hi,
It will be hard to give a better answer long distance than a dealer with the car in hand, but here are some common problem with your car that match your symptoms. #1 Bad coil-check for carbon tracking on the underside. #2 Vacuum leak-check intak manifold gasket and other possibly leak points. #3 dirty/unbalanced injectors-clean injection system professionally #4 Dirty valve stems, pushing the valve guides out of place. This requires engine removal for repair.
Best wishes.
Dale

1996 Subaru Outback Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always

lights dim, gauges operate eraticaly, battery and break lights come on

I would say your car is telling you that either the battery is failing or the alternator is failing. To Identify which, I recommend fully charging the battery and run the car to an Auto Zone or other parts place. These places will test the battery and the Alternator while it sits in the car. THis will tell you which is failing. Let me know if I can help some more. AL

1996 Subaru Outback Engine   

I have a 1996 Outback with the 3.5 engine. Lately I have noticed the lifters get very noisy after the car has been driven for about an hour. This car has 145k miles.

Hello, What is the oil pressure? What weight oil are you using?

Roger

I haven't checked the oil pressure yet. I'm using 20w-40 and just added some Marvel Mystery oil to see if that does anything.

It is good business to check the oil pressure to see hown deep you'll have to go on this one.

If oil pressure is good but the drainbacks from the engine heads are sludged up the oil pump may be starving...

Roger

OK. I will get the oil pressure checked ASAP.
Is their an oil additive that I can use for now?

Thanks

Let's not do that yet. The only additive I would recommend is a Lucas Oil product.

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

I need to check oil pressure and also compression. I'll get back to you with the results.

Thanks for the update.

Roger