Suzuki Samurai

1992 Suzuki Samurai Fuel System Failing When starting Always

no signal to injector , used noid lite to check. was ok till i istalled new starter and bat. terminals.

Did you first check for spark to the spark plugs?

Don't overlook fuses and triple check grounds/bat.terminals/etc.

yes there is spark will fire when fuel is poured through trottle body

Check fuses and fusible links if you have them.

Next check to see which is missing, the ground to the injector (supplied by the computer) or the positive voltage to the injector.

1992 Suzuki Samurai Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

Car was running but not well, then was parked for a couple weeks. Now I have no fire from the coil. I have replaced the coil and igniter, no change.

These trucks have had a lot of problems with their computers. Open the cover carefully and look for leakage, corrosion, burn marks.

1992 Suzuki Samurai Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Hi, my 1992 Suzuki Samurai has a dim passenger headlight - on both high and low beam. The parking light on that side and all other lights seem fine except for the passenger side headlight which is very dim. I checked the headlight switch assembly on the steering column and that is fine. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you, Dan

First test:switch LH bulb with RH bulb.If the dim light also changes, replace the bulb.
If it still says dim on RH side. look at the wiring just behind it.The ground wire should be removed (screw) cleaned with sandpaper reinstalled.

1991 Suzuki Samurai Ignition System Won't Start Happens always When warm 

I own 1991 Suzuki Samura 4WD, engine wouldn't start after driving home from work, replaced cap,rotor,ignition wires,plugs,coil.
Engine cranks ok and getting good ignition spark at plugs but wouldn't start,after letting it sit overnight it started up right away the next morning. I let it run for five minutes, turned it off, then it wouldn't start up again. Same thing happened the next day. Also, I have to turn the ignition key several times before NEW starter ingages???????? >>>>AT WITZ END>>>!!PLZ RSVP ASAP!!!!

Old starter did the same thing???????

You have 2 different problems.

First the starter. Get a helper, put a voltmeter on the starter between the big power wire and the starter case. You should have 12 volts, remaining over 10 volts when the key is turned to start. If not, check your battery, the terminals and the cables between it and the starter. If OK, check the voltage between the small wire and the starter case. It should get at least 10 volts when the key is turned to start. If so, and the starter does not crank, you need a better starter. If low power, check the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch to make sure they are sending full power.

Next, when the engine is cranking with good spark, but not starting, try adding some starting fluid. It should start. There are 2 wires going to the throttle body injector. One should have power when the key is on, one should be intermittently grounded when the engine is cranked. BOTH wires come form the computer. If either action is missing, check your computer for a burnt smell.

Where is the neutral safety switch located? and how can the throttle body injector wires be test?. Will this be in my repair manual?
Thank you so much for your speedy reply you have been most helpful!!!!!!!GREAT WEB SERVICE, I will recommend it to all my friends and family!!!!

I failed to mention this is a EFI system so the relpy would be the same?. Sorry for my confusion.

Your EFI is a throttle body injection. That is what I am talking about. The throttle body injector wires come out from the throttle body area. You can test them with a test light. You can also watch for fuel spray if your remove the air duct going in the top. The neutral safety switch should be on the side of the transmission where the shifter is connected.

Thanks so much again!!!!!!

1991 Suzuki Samurai Ignition System   

I have power to the distributor when the ignition key is on but iam not getting a spark at the spark plug when i try to crank it what is the most likely problem

Hi, Try disconnecting the coil wire from the distributor cap and using an insulated tool hold the wire about 1/4 inch or less from the coil wire tower. Have someone else crank the engine while you watch for spark from the exposed coil wire terminal jump to the distributor cap coil wire tower. Do you see spark jump? If so replace the rotor inside the cap.

If not, remove the dist cap and and see if the distributor shaft turns when the engine cranks.

Please advise,

Roger

1990 Suzuki Samurai Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

Recently bought a 1990 JL Samurai w/EFI(TBI) that wasn't running with low miles (80,000). Guy said that he thought the ECM/computer was bad. Guy said thta the ZUK would run for a while and quit then start after a while. Went on to say that it acted like is was getting weak fire and finally quit running all together. Tested the ignition and here goes, checked coil resistance and showed good as well as had a spare on hand that tested good, tried both, no fire. Have voltage in/out of coil but no fire. Had spare igniter on hand,tried both,same results no fire. Checked pick up in coil 12VDC in but voltage out lead reading 5VDC and per manual says should have 12VDC out when open. Replaced pickup still no fire and $140.00 shot in the rear. Checked continuity from ECM to coil, igniter and pickup all were good. Have 12VDC to coil, pickup and igniter but read nothing on orange and orange/black wires at igniter. Had ECM rebuilt and still no fire engine is getting fuel but you can grab primary wire from distributor and feel nothing when starting engine.......HELP!!!!!!!!!!! When you turn on the ignition, check engine light flashes 17 repeatedly after buzzer goes off. Acts like it is in OBD check but no fuse installed in diagnostics at fuse box?!?!?! Prior to sending off ECM there was a place that appeared to have gotten hot in it at where orange wire from igniter enters ECM, guy stated that he fixed ECM and is under warranty. Is my ECM still trashed or what? Any and all help appreciated in advance!

A few questions here.. why is the fuse not in the ecm slot?? Next have you checked in the techmanual to see what the orange wire is feed from or feed to?? and do you have contenuity (?) in this wire. Possibility the ECM is still bad.. you are having a spark control problem.. Let me know and we can go from there.. AL

The fuse I am referring to I think is for the OBD1. If memory serves me it is labeled DIAG or something similiar. It is the last fuse on the bottom far right of the fuse block. I believe that the manual stated that the fuse is only supposed to be in place if running the ECM for the OBD1 codes. When the fuse is in place I get the standard 12 code (normal). As for the wiring, the wires I referred to are on the igniter (ignition module) itself directly underneath the coil itself on the driver side firewall, along w/a black and brown/white or maybe black/white and brown wires (can't remember their exact colors. These wires themselves are supplying 12VDC to the igniter. The other two wires are an orange and an orange/black wires and are not supplying any voltage as the other two. These wires are not listed in the Haynes manual I have been using. Continuity is good on all the wires at the igniter,coil and the distributor(moreover the pick-up/CAS in the distributor) to the ECM. As I stated, when you turn the ignition on, after the buzzer goes off, the check engine light flashes a 17 repeatedly. Let me know if you come up with anything. Thanks in advance! Jeremy

If you install the OBD fuse does anything change except the fact that you start to get 12 vice 17 codes? Waiting on your reply. AL

"If you install the OBD fuse does anything change except the fact that you start to get 12 vice 17 codes? Waiting on your reply. AL
Not sure if this got to you. Let me know. Al

Al,
Nothing changes either way. I got a complete diagram today from a local mechanic and I am going to ring the wires at the ECM and check for proper voltages across the ECM plugs. This should tell me if it is the ECM or if I am not getting what I need via the ignition circuits. I will get back to you next day or so and let you know. Let me know if you come up w/anything else. Thanks in advance.....Jeremy

So did the wire diagram help identify the problem? Let me know .. I am interested Al

"So did the wire diagram help identify the problem? Let me know .. I am interested Al"

Al,
Sorry so long to reply, been off work for the holidays. Yes, the diagram helped, from the tests, the ECM is still bad. I am sending it back as the repair was under 1 year warranty. There wasn't any voltage to the igniter from the ECM and it isn't triggering the coil, hence no fire! There was supposed to be 4-6VDC and 3-5VDC on those pins while cranking and there is nothing from the ECM, also found that the diagnostic circuit is FUBAR also, that was why it is continously blinking on the check engine light. Thanks a million, and Merry Christmas!....Jeremy

1988 Suzuki Samurai Engine   

I just had my head gasket,valve,distributor,manifold gaskets and timming belt replaced, milled head also. I thought I had a leak from dist.gasket at first, reason for repair.(along with coolant mixing with oil)oil was not leaking from dist.gask. as I thought it was, it is leaking from where block and trans. housing meet. (sh#t) I spoke w/ Dave at Petroworks and he said that rear main seal rarely goes bad in a sami (my 1.3 engine had a rebuild by last owner about 30K ago)what do you think it could be before I pay $600 for repairs

Is it leaking from the bottom of the trans housing and block? If it is, this is usually the rear main seal. It is not uncommon to have the seal leak after a rebuild for one of several causes. These include use of an inferior seal, incorrect installation, failure to check/repair the run-out of the crank shaft, etc.

it looks like it is leaking from directly behind the dist. all the way to bottom of housing.(is it leaking from one spot and running down? I dont know) Is it OK to drive or run short trips?

It is okay to drive as long as the oil is not running onto anything hot enough to start a fire (eg- the exhaust pipe). Additionally, don't let the engine run low on oil.

I think you should get a second opinion on the cost of the repair.

How much oil is it leaking?

Its not leaking to bad, every time I drive it I say about a half teaspoon or so... Do you still think it is rear main seal?

No, not sure. What does your mechanic want to replace for 600 dollars?

I told him(and he agreed) I thought it was the rear main. $600 for tear out housing all seals new stock clutch install(while your in there)replace.(your right that would be high priced for just seal repair..

so you dont think it is rear main seal? thinking about it also I bet sami is leaking oil while im driving so up the oil lose a bit... not much lower on dip stick.

$600 is a fair price including a new clutch, if you need one (very high mileage, hard driving, oil contamination, etc).

Does it leak enough to leave oil spots under the vehicle when it sits overnight?

only time it leaves spot is for about an hour or so after driving.

1988 Suzuki Samurai Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My check engine light comes on. instructions say to insert the spare fuse into the diagnostic terminal of the fuse block. The only fuse block I can find is under the dash on drivers side and there is no spare or terminal. What are they talking about and how can I set the OBD-1 so I can read the code?

Look for one that is labeled 'DIAG' or similar, is there one?

the fuse board under the dash is full and nothing labled. Is that the only fuse block?

Is the cover still there, that should (hopefully) be labeled. Or do you have the owners manual, it should list fuse block designations for your vehicle.

there are two rows of fuses 7 on top and 7 on bottom. I don't see that any of them are labled for a spare. I have looked everywhere for an aditional fuse box in engine capartment, but can't find one.

I am missing the cover and the owners manual. However I have a Haynes Repair Manual which in it has a picture of the cover of the fuse pannel. It is hard to read but I can make out most of it. Would you know the exact terminal, the top right and the bottom left I am not sure about but I pulled the fuse on the bottom left and then no dash warning lights of any kind.

Use the following link, copy and paste into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1e/01/c[redacted] d801e01c3/repairInfoPages.htm

Let me know if these instructions help.

I tried the link came up page not found. I tried autozone websight and also called them that was also a dead end.

Do you have a carburetor or fuel injected engine?

1988 Suzuki Samurai Drive Train / Driveline   

4X4 transfer is stuck in neutral

Was working OK till I went to shift from 4WD High back to 2WD High.

Start by inspecting the shift linkage, it may be loose and/or binding. Let me know what you find.

1988 Suzuki Samurai Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The battery on my samurai keeps dying. The alternator is new and the battery one year old. I had grounding issues in the past. My friend and I ran a ground wire from the negative battery post to a frame bolt to prevent "bleed" through on the taillights. Could this be part of the problem?

Repairing a ground CANNOT cause your battery to run down. Here are some suggestions. First, disconnect your battery for the length of time it usually goes dead. Then reconnect the battery and see if the battery has gone dead by itself (happens sometimes). If the battery is strong, then there is a short somewhere on the vehicle, draining the battery.

The proper way to find a battery drain is to remove the negative battery cable and connect an amp meter between the post and the cable. measure the amount of parasytic draw after 1 minute. If it is over 50mA, remove fuses until it drops to that level. The fuse that drops the amperage to the proper level is the circuit that has the problem.

Odd things I have seen include alternators and computers draining the battery when the key is off.

Hope this helps.

Sterlingfixer

1988 Suzuki Samurai Fuel System   

it starts and runs when cold but when it warms up it will stall, it starves from fuel.. i replaced the fuel pump so its new and working as should or atleast when first starts up.. i also pulled fuel hose from carb (while it was warm) and no fuel was being pumped out. ????? need help?

Hello,

Did you replace the fuel filter also? These can clog after running as the sediment will drop down while sitting, then block the filter material once fuel start flowing again.

Did you check for fuel pressure/volume with the engine cranking? Only do so safely as you don't want a fire!

By the way, this is a mechanical fuel pump (1.3L 2 barrel carburetor)?

yes mechanical pump and a weber 2 barrel carb. also changed the filter. and had someone crank it with fuel line off carb to see flow. and when warm theres none. but if i let sit or cool down then there is fuel for a limited time.. is there a filter in the tank? i changed the filter from pump to carb..

Remove the gas cap and disconnect the fuel line from the pump (to the tank). Blow regulated compressed air (25-35 psi is enough) through the line when it will not run. Reconnect fuel line to pump. Will it start now? It'll take a bit as the fuel pump will have to prime.

If it does you likely had a restriction. If not the fuel pump is driven by a cam that may be worn. Either replace as necessary or there is the option of an electrical pump. Give me an update and remember to keep it safe when working on the fuel system. Use dry rags to soak catch any gas that may leak when you disconnect the line.

By the way, the fuel gauge does work... gas in the tank.

ha ha ha yes the guage works.. i will try this in hopes to flush anything clogging.. but it will run but then later shut off, seems to be when it warms up.. is there a filter in the tank? i believe pump is working fine its got to be something in the line or tank restricting flow...???

I cannot find a listing for a filter on the fuel pick-up tube. The filter may be permanent and not accessible.

I have seen mechanics have their vehicles towed to the dealer for an empty gas tank condition. Sounds funny, but does happen.

Don't forget to remove the gas cap so the air has somewhere to escape.

Give me an update.

Do you smell any gas? A crack in the fuel line could cause the pump to suck air.

1987 Suzuki Samurai Engine   

Today I went to shut down the motor Nada will not shut down and elect fan will also not come on? remove red bat cable N.G had to pull coil wire to stop motor HELP!Tried to start Elect fan runs but Motor will not start? Thank You Cheers 7 Thank You Joseph

Hello,

Does the engine light stay on when the key is turned on?

Check the small ground wires, you may have one disconnected from the engine or body. You could also have a defective ignition switch.

In this situation, it would be safer to pull a vital fuse or unplug the distributor. In any event always use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

Motor light on dash for batt and other items comes on when key is on that is it,Motor will not start any longer but Elect fan will if turned on by dash switch.

Does the engine turn over? If yes start by inspecting the wiring at coil/distibutor. If you need wiring diagrams, etc to follow visit autozone.com and click on Vehicle Repair Guides.

Motor will not do any thing when key is turned on

Okay, check connections at starter/solenoid/alternator & battery. If these are okay (along with fusible links) look at the ignition switch.

1986 Suzuki Samurai Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting Always

transfer case stuck in neutral

Do you have a safty neutral switch if so replace it or your lever cable is frozen replace or you may have a problem with the gears in side of it broken or jumped

1986 Suzuki Samurai All Part Groups Won't Start When stopped Always

hello,

i've just acquired an '86 samurai from the original owner with 53,000 miles. many short trips into town and home. no long distance driving. it's pretty dirty and don't think maintenance has always been up to date.

question: it's just received new points, plugs, wires, supposedly timing is correct. the owner drove it home and suddenly died in the driveway and wouldn't start again. he then had a friend put the above mentioned parts into the engine and it still wouldn't start. it turns over, sounds healthy but won't kick over.

what else???

Troubleshooting is necessary to find the problem. The first step is to check for spark to the spark plugs. Is there spark?

Does this engine have a carburetor or fuel injection?

thanks for responding douglas. i'm going to tow the suzuki tomorrow to my place. it's been sitting at the previous owner's home for a couple of months now.

the 1.3 ltr is carbuerated. i've had to jump the suzuki with my truck in order for the engine to turn over. when i first started to do this, the engine was very hard to turn over, after a few minutes of starting and stopping ignition, the revs got easier. it must be getting fuel because i smell gas after several attempts on starting. am not sure if it's getting spark tho'. i'll know more when i get there tomorrow. thought you may shed some insight into gettin' her to run so i don't have to tow her.

thanks,

mike

Tough to guess what is wrong from here. How long has it been sitting? Did you pull the spark plugs and see if they were fouled?

Have you checked for key on positive voltage to the coil? It'll never fire without it.

Here is a link to a free only repair guide.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1d/f0/3[redacted] d801df035.jsp ""

One other thing is to never overlook fuses.

1986 Suzuki Samurai Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  Always

My 86 Samurai was working fine, and I left it parked for 2-3 weeks without driving it. When I started it, the sensor light, battery light and brake light all stayed on. I had reset the sensor light 6-8 months ago, and it only has 133,000 miles now. For all the light to come on and stay on, I wonder if it is the computer? It still seems to run fine.

You will want to inspect your ignition switch for a short, jiggle it around a little to see if there is a change
your ignition switch seems to be hanging in the ignition on pos.
can you run a diagnostic on the car to pull any codes?
It is also possible that one of the ignition system relays have gone bad"

The lights are only on when the switch is on. Even when the engine is running.

That is the way I understood your Statement the first time and is why you want to check your ignition system relays.
Once the engine is started and running there is a relay that is activated to switch off power to the "ignition on" indicator lights
These lights include the oil pressure light, brake light and the ignition light,check engine light and batt light
hope this helps

The problem was the alternator. It was bad, and causing the lights to stay on. After finally finding a wiring diagram, it was obvious.

I am glad it is settled
are you up and running again?
Macconneck

Yes, but no thanks to All Parts

I understand sir and sorry to hear I was not a help, and you will haply be refunded your 7.00 just for the asking if you are not satisfied with the service sir
we do thank you for your seeking answers through Allparts
I am responsible for my diagnosis and answer based on the question as I understand it
I do not claim to know it all but give it my best at trying to get the customer up and running again hopefully you will have better experiences with us in the future
and remmember you can always release your questions so that other mechanics can attempt to answer, That is an option you have with Allparts until you are satisfied with an answer
Thanks again
Macconneck

1986 Suzuki Samurai Ignition System Won't Start  

I have a 1986 samurai and the fusable link off the positive side of the battery blew. I replaced that and now when I turn on the ignition the 15 amp ignition fuse in the fuse block blows. The starter will turn and cranck the engine but no ignition as the fuse keeps blowing. Can someone help

Problem 1= Where is this + pos wire leading to, that comes from the battery ? Obviously it doesn't feed the starter because youa re saying continues to crank.

So my suggestion is to follow this wire where it goes and check for a short, if your fuse is blowing only when cranking the engine over, then your problem is some where in your starting circuit. If however the fuse is blowing with just the key on then it's whatever that wire is doing either shorted or the component it's feeding.

Capper

The fuse blows as soon as the ignition switch is turned. The wire from the + on the batt goes to the ign switch

Okay - then I have a idea where to start, you need to do a continuity check of that wire first off ..

Process of elimination starts with where you have power to where you need it - so with a multimeter set on ohms, hook both ends up and see if there is a high resistance. If there is then you have a short somewhere in that wire and you need to find it. If there is low resistance like say 1-3 ohms is normal you then need to go to the ign sw and varify that the switch is okay.

If the switch seems okay then unhook the alternator wire and see if the fuse still blows , because I have seen it where they will short out and go to ground causing the ign fuse to blow.

Let me know how you make out ..

Capper

Hello, Fuse #7 (15 amp) powers the instruement cluster, the alternator, the distributor, the ignition coil, and pin #9 of the electronic control module.

If this fuse blows the moment the key is turned on, try disconnecting the Blk-Wht wire from each of the above components until the fuse no longer blows. Start with the alternator..... instruement cluster last. Replace the last component you disconnected that (the result was) the fuse remains good when you turn on the key.


Roger

Thanks guys, you've been great. I did a continuity test on all the wires on that circuit and they all look good, no resistance. When I disconnected the control module the truck started , when re-connected it blew the 15 amp fuse. I opened the control module and there are some burned areas. Is this a ECM or a PCM? , the truck not fuel injected. What might cause this to go bad? Thanks

Yes, the wiring diagram shows an electronic control module (ECM).

An ECM is also used to operate a carbureator and emissions components.

The failure could have been caused by liquid ingress, a voltage spike during a jump start, connecting the battery when the key is on, a component on the circuit board failed over time.

If when checking continuity on the wiring you did not find a short to ground the ECM is likely all that is needed.

If you have had water leaking in when it rains or when washing the Samurai that will of course need to be checked out if the leak is in the area of where the ECM mounts.

Ready to close the question? Please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button. When you do, All Parts will pay me.

Roger

1986 Suzuki Samurai Engine   

oxygen sensor lite stays on after replaceing with new one.

Is this a one wire sensor? Have you checked the fuse?

1986 Suzuki Samurai Drive Train / Driveline   

Rumbling noise that starts at about 40mph and gets louder as it goes to 55, then gets quiet again. Sounds like it is the rear. If I put it in the clutch or take my foot off the gas, noise stops.

Best tested if you can jack up both sides of the rear and block up the rear so tires suspended.Block frt tires (frt and rear)
so car does not roll.E brake off. Spin tire, looking for bulges in tread or cupping.If that ok, grasp driveshaft and twist while looking at u-joints at ends for looseness or play.Also to check the rear gears for loosness.
This procedure might best be left to a shop, even a tire shop, that might not charge to diagnose.

1983 Suzuki Samurai Ignition System   

My 1983 Suzuki Samurai is great in all aspects except STARTING UP! When I turn the ignition it seems to turn the engine for a second or two then everything stops and a high pitched whine kind of crescendo's and decrescendo's, with no action from the engine. Sometimes this whine is all I get when I turn the key repeatedly... What gives?

Hi,
Your problem it is the starte solenoid and can be corected by replanig your starter.
GOOD LUCK.
Best regards,
Peter Mladin
ps: Autotechnician for over 30 years.

HI,

starte should be read "starter"
Regards,
Peter

Hi,
"replanig should be read "replacing".Sorry.I was in rush.
Regards,

Peter