Suzuki Sidekick

1996 Suzuki Sidekick Engine   

Performance is very sluggish & there is a metallic whine from the front of the engine. Also sounds like an exaust leak at the manifold. Had the timing adjusted and ran fine for a couple of weeks but is beginning to be sluggish again.

An exhaust leak can cause performance problems, especially on small engines.

Any check engine light while the engine is running?

1996 Suzuki Sidekick Fuel System   

Fuel pump runs OK when disconnected from the vehicle electrical harness and power is applied directly to the wires going to the pump at the gas tank. However, when the pump is connected normally to the vehicle wiring harness, and when the key is turned on, the fuel pump relay, under the dash, engages for about a second and then disengages. The fuel pump does not run and the vehicle will not start.

Hi, When the key is turned to ON the fuel pump will run for a second or two to pressure up the fuel rail. Then the pump stops as the computer waits to get a feedback signal that the engine is cranking.

The cranking signal is sent to the computer by the Crankshaft Position Sensor and or the Camshaft Position Sensor. When the computer senses the engine is turning the computer allows the fuel injectors to pulse and spark begins.

Do you have spark? If not you will not have fuel injection pulse either. If you have spark please advise.

Roger

I will have to check and get back to you. I'll be away for about 10 days. How do I get back to you?

Just leave the question open.

If you need wiring diagrams for the engine controls please advise your email address and the engine size (1.6L or 1.8L).

Roger

O.K. Thanks.

May I have an update on this question?

Thanks,

Roger

We have been delayed on this item with other projects. Will advise. Thanks. Chris

1994 Suzuki Sidekick Ignition System   

Originally, no power to fuel pump. After cranking engine, with no spark visible, there is sometimes a single faint blip that appears at the end of the cranking cycle at the instant you let up on the key. Have removed "Suzuki Security System" from vehicle. It did not appear to be in use since several wires were disconnected yet the vehicle was still being driven. May need open alarm plugs in vehicle harness to be jumped in order to maintain start circuit. function due to removal of alarm system."

The first thing I want you to check is for Key On positive voltage to the coil. Do you have positive voltage to the coil?

Yes, there is voltage to the coil.

HELLO, AM I GOING TO GET AN ANSWER???

Hello,

It was so long between replies I missed your reply.

Now you'll need to check trouble codes. Are any trouble codes found?

Don't know about codes. I changed the coil and gave it a shot of ether and it fired and sputtered out. So now I'm back to the original problem which is no power to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is good. We already applied 12V to it and it runs.

Okay, do you have fuel injector pulse? The preferred method is to check with a noid light.

If there is not pulse, check for Key On positive voltage to the fuel injectors. One end of voltmeter lead to a known good ground and the other to the fuel injector connector. What do you find?

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1d/fb/5[redacted] d801dfb57.jsp&eraseCrumbs=YES

Copy and paste the above link into your address bar. If the link does not work visit autozone.com and click on 'Vehicle Repair Guides.' Use the repair guide for trouble codes information, wiring diagrams, etc.

A "NOID" light?? What's that. Do you mean a 12V test light?

A noid light is a test light that will not damage a vehicles computer. The computer usually will not be damaged with a test light, however to be certain a noid light needs to be used. Your risk, your choice.

If you wish to use a noid light, but not buy one, they may be available as part of the Tool Loaner Program at your local Autozone, Advance, or PartsAmerica store (call ahead). The loaner program means you pay deposit that is fully refunded upon returning the tool, further details available from store.

Unplug the fuel injector and plug the noid light into the connector. The noid light (test light) should flash when the engine is cranked.

There is no flash at the injector. The fuel pump also does not run for the few seconds it takes to "prime" the line when you first turn the key to the "on" position. However, the motor will start and run briefly with a shot of ether into the air intake.

Okay, no flash at the injector. To get flash you need positive (hot) and ground. Now, using a known good ground, check for Key On positive voltage to the injectors. Is positive voltage there?

There is no positive on voltage to the injectors.

Use the following link-

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1e/08/3[redacted] d[redacted] /repairInfoPages.htm

Match your engine size to the diagrams.

Were you able check trouble codes?

We are unable to check trouble codes. Owner of vehicle stated that he had to keep replacing fuel pump relays. There are half a dozen or so relays hanging from underneath the steering column. Also, we have since removed factory alarm system. Is there a bypass plug or wiring we must put in if the alarm system has been unplugged and removed? Would bad fuel pump relay cause this? Some kind of sensor like cam or crank sensor?

Simply jumper the fuel pump relay, then you
ll know if the relay is bad or not. Are you following the wiring diagrams?

1992 Suzuki Sidekick All Part Groups Failing When driving Always

Hi there... my little sidekick almost got me killed on the highway the other night. It would not accelerate, even when it was all the way floored. There has been a strange sound for a couple of weeks, like a knocking sound, but it doesn't SEEM to be coming from the engine. If I am idling I can push the gas and it stops the noise. Once I'm driving I can't hear it. along with the noise, the idle became rough and the rpm were just about nil, then it wouldn't idle at all the day it almost killed me. I had it all the way floored and I couldn't get it to go over 30mph and the rpms were way down below 2... please help me.. I just bought this car.. did the former owner know about this? He was a mechanic for 45 years.. I don't see how he couldn't - I feel scammed... I hope it isn't expensive to fix...

also it has 115,000 miles on it. It ran fine 2 weeks ago when I bought it... I had put the middle grade gas in it the day on the highway, thinking maybe it was the gas that was causing it to act starved... I can't understand it, the engine sounds fine at higher rpms... I can't get it at higher rpms.. but it did sound fine... doesn't burn oil.. or anything... I hope you can help..
oh! the check engine light is on, and the o/d light blinks continually. And what the heck is the lever for the transmission? I can't find that out anywhere... it is an automatic, by the way... thank you so much for your help.. I am glad I found this site... the shops take me big time over here in hawaii... thank you so much.. Savannah

If this happened the first time you drove vehicle I'd think the previous owner knew about it (regardless of their experience).

Is the check engine light on all the time when the engine is running? Is the problem only present when the engine is at operating temps, or does it happen when the engine is cold also?

Yes the check engine light is always on. I am not sure if it only happens when the car has warmed up to regular running temperature. I am going to go drive it right now when it's cold and see if it is still not able to go normal driving speed. I will let you know about that as soon as I get back. Thank you for responding so quickly.Be back soon. Savannah

Yes, it seemed to kick in mostly after it warmed up. When i first started it it idled just under 1000 rpms (just under the 1 on the tachometer) and seemed to be ok.... after it warmed up the rpm dropped all the way down to almost nil, almost dying altogether and it wouldn't go hardly at all... very slowly - I had to put it in 2nd to get up a little tiny hill and even then I was afraid it wouldn't make it up there... also it's eating gas like crazy and it sounds rough as all get out. Thank you very much for your assistance.

The first thing I want you to do is check trouble codes. Use the following link to access a repair guide that'll give instructions under the "Emmission" section.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

Let me know which trouble codes you find.

I don't know if I have the right place or not. That is a very complicated site and I know NOTHING about cars. But it looks like I have to have a scan tool, which they don't have for sale and I have no idea how to get one. Is there any other way to check or is this what you're talking about? If so, why didn't you just tell me I need a scan tool instead of sending me to that site and causing me to spend all that time trying to get thru an impossible maze...?

I had wanted to give you the site because it contains a repair guide that should be helpful with trouble shooting/ reparing your vehicle. I could of left a link to the page with instructions but did not know which engine size you have,etc (figured it would be simpler for you enter the information)- and will now- hopefully you know how to Copy and Paste the link into your Address bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1e/01/c[redacted] d801e01c3.jsp

The following is the section you need to look at- assuming you have a 1.6L engine.



"192-95 1.6L ENGINES

See Figures 3 and 4

The CHECK ENGINE light, located in the instrument cluster, can be used to retrieve DTC's stored in the ECM. The DTC's are double-digit numbers, which are conveyed by the CHECK ENGINE light as flashes. Each digit of the code is presented as a series of flashes, so that code No. 32 would be presented as three flashes close together, then 2 flashes after a one second pause. Three seconds after the first code, the next code will be flashed in the CHECK ENGINE light. The DTC's can be retrieved as follows: "

Sorry for the confusion.

I have no idea what you're talking about. I have a 1600 engine.

Okay- this is the link with instructions for your engine-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1e/01/c[redacted] d801e01c3.jsp

1992 Suzuki Sidekick Engine   

after engine is warm,when holding throttle at 1500rpm,engine surges between 1500 & 2000rpm ,idles smooth at 800rpm, 120000miles

Usually a temperature sensitive idle issue happens when a coolant temp sensor fails.
The first thing I would do is ensure that the coolant level (antifreeze) is full, as the sensor does not work well unless completely submersed.
Also idle concerns are more common this time of year as the gasoline gets more moisture in it, so its preventitive maintenance to run some injector cleaner in the gas.
As a last resort have the Suzuki scanned for codes, as an 02 sensor might be weak.

1992 Suzuki Sidekick Fuel System   

whether i am driving or in park or neutral at2500rpm my vehecle starts to jerk.it is recluctant to take the rev.

You should do some basic testing to
see if it is spark or fuel related.
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor ok? Last tune
up? Have you scanned it for codes?
Fuel filter and air filter clean?
Does it happen more on rainy or damp
days (spark plug wires)Possibly bad fuel, if it was after you got gas... or was it an ongoing problem?

Does it clear up if you get past the 2500 rpm mark? If it does, you may have a bad TPS (throttle position sensor).

yes it does clear up

Okay,

Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?

The TPS as mentioned, and spark plug wires can cause this.

Your local chain parts store may be able to test these components off the vehicle, call ahead (Autozone).

no check enginelights come on .sometimes when it happens whilst am driving ijust put the overdrive switch on .it is more prevalent when the overdrive is off.what is the tps.

The throttle position sensor. It lets the computer know how much gas is applied. They can have a glitch and give a false reading, which can cause you symptoms.

Visit autozone.com and register your Suzuki. Then click on 'Vehicle Repair Guides.' Then you will have repair guide that is roughly the equivalent of a Haynes or Chiltons paper manual. The online repair guide will show the TPS (under Electronic Engine Controls).

i am having a problem with my suzuki. when i engage in drive or park it jerks violentlyinto these 2 gears but it shifts into all gears once on the move.

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

my suzuki engages into drive and reverse very violently,i mean like a bang even if my foot is on the brakes very hard. what is the cause of that.

Okay,

Is the idle high?

Also check the engine and transmission mounts, you can hear the engine/trans rock if you listen carefully while stopped and shifting from reverese to drive (back and forth).

I assume you meant it shifts violently into drive and Reverse only.