Toyota 2000GT

2000 Toyota 2000GT Engine   

2000 Celica GT, manual 5spd with 73k miles. Experiencing sluggish acceleration. OBD code p0303. Have new OEM plugs, new OEM MAF sensor, removed and cleaned Throttle body and Idle control valve. Toyota dealer mechanic switched ignition coil from 3 to 1, checked injectors, and cylinder compression - all OK. Still get P0303 code. He measured the resistance of the 12v wire on the #3 fuel injector plug and thinks it has high resistance compared to the other 3 wires. Toyota dealer wants me to pay to replace entire wire harness at $1000. Is it reasonable to replace the fuel injector wire from the injector back to the EDM/computer? Should I replace both the connector and wire or just the wire? Car starts fine, but once it warms up has still sluggish acceleration. Any ideas?

It would be nice to replace the connector and wire, but $1000 is to much for the harness. I don't imagine they would refund your money if the harness was not the problem.

I assume the resistance concern is on the PCM supplied ground and not the hot wire.

You are correct. I'm wondering now if I replace the fuel injector rail, if I can get the pigtail connectors to each fuel injector as well with this assembly. My deep fear is, this is not the P0303 problem only a perceived symptom.

Hello,

How did they test the fuel injector?

I have the same fear, but do believe that it all they found.

I do not believe they tested the fuel injector. He switched the coils from 3 to 1, and tested the compression. How would I have the #3 injector tested? I assume it would have to be removed. It starts OK and starts the slight hesitation at at heavier acceleration.

The injector can be swapped like the coils.
Does the misfire stay at the cylinder or follow the injector?

He switched the injector and CEL code returned still reading P0303. I just replaced the all the fuel injector plastic wire clips with a set off a 2002. Carefully took each clip apart, kept the wires in the correct position, and reassembled with the replacement clips. I plan to test drive tomorrow to see how she runs.

Okay, give me an update.

How far did you replace the wiring?

Removed #3 fuel injector plastic clip off of our harness and 4 inches off of both wires. Soldered replacment wires with hose insultation onto our Celica's harness. Then replaced all (4) plastic injector wire clips with the ones I removed from the salvage yard '02 harness being careful to get the black and colored wires back in the correct location. Been running for a few days with no CEL. We'll see how it goes.

1998 Toyota 2000GT Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Left blinker remains on, unblinking when lights are on and doesn't indicate.

Hello
Try checking the fuse and then the turn signal relay switch. Should show location in the owner's manual.
Heavychevy

The car is a toyota camry, not a 2000GT. The blinker works fine in the day time time...just at night it switches on with the lights and stays on like a light.
Any changes to your first instructions?

Hi Heavy Chevvy,
We just took the blinker fuse out which is fine, but the blinker remains on with the headlights. Of course it is shorting, but how can we trace that?

Sounds like a short in the column with the headlight switch and turn signal switch itself. Best bet would be to replace it.
Thanks for the better description.
Heavychevy

Thanks Heavy Chevvy,

Julie and John

Your welcome, should be simple to replace. Hope all turns out well for you both.
Heavychevy

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Just doing a follow to check the progress of your 2000gt.
Heavychevy

1997 Toyota 2000GT Drive Train / Driveline   

when making a left hand turn,a grining sound comoe from the car. Could this possibily be an axel and brakes.?

it almost sound like something is loose. with a grinding sound

Hello, Turn the steering to full left. Look at the end of the left axle just behind the tire when viewed from the front. Is the rubber boot torn? If so the grease will escape and the joint will wear quickly.

Turn the steering full right and viewing from the front inspect the right side axle for the same thing.

What did you find?

Roger

1993 Toyota 2000GT Heating / Cooling System   

air cond. fan. works sometimes then wont some times. i dont know which part to replace. i dont have a manual.

Which fan are you having the problem with, the fan that blows air through the vents or the under hood fan that cools the radiator/condensor?

the one that blows thru. the vent. it

What you will need to do is check for power to the motor when the problem is present. If you have power (one end of testlight or voltmeter to a known good ground and the other to blower motors electrical connector) and the blower does not operate, the blower motor is defective (unless there is a bad connection at the plug in, check for corrosion & pin damage.)

A quick test, that sometimes works, is to bang on the blower motor when it won't work (rubber mallet, wooden stick, etc-nothing that could do damage). If the brushes are worn this will often restart the motor.

If you don't have power (be sure to check on all blower speeds) the relay is the most likely failure. If you have a matching relay nearby, simply swap for test purposes. The blower motor will come to life when a good relay is installed, if of course the relay is the problem.

i dont know much -where is the relay and can i buy another one to replace it-to see is that works. i dont even know where the motor is. i found what looks like fuse box with what i think are relays under hood. i unplugged 2 and they worked the cooling fan i would guess the 3 would be the air cond. fan. it seemed to go out when it sat in the sun for awhile they come back when it set awhile. but now it does not seem to work at anytime

Please confirm the year and model of your vehicle, then I'll check to see if I can find information on component locations.

Right now it shows you have a '1993 Toyota 2000GT.'

I have a 1993 Toyota Corolla; don't know where the 2000GT came from.

Much better, the only information I could find indicated the 2000GT's were from the 60's.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address bar-




The link will take you to repair information that details component location & removal procedures.

Sorry for the missing link, here are two-

http://www1.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] ab07.gif

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/ab/1[redacted] ab16/repairInfoPages.htm

Note that both of the links take you to a repair guide for your car (equivalent to a Haynes or Chiltons paper manual.)

i turned the fan on last night it would not work- turned it on the morning-works fine. seems to have a mind of it own. i think it might have something to do with the heat. could a fuse of rely be going out because of setting in the sun.

1989 Toyota 2000GT Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving No pattern

the heating system intermittently goes from hot to cold without touching any of the controls, even tho the temperature control lever is always on hot. i.e. one minute i have heat, the next minute i can have cold. nobody seems to be able to find the reason.

The temperature of the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core must be monitored. If the temperature of the inlet hose drops coolant is not being supplied (IE- water pump, low coolant level). If the water remains hot the blend air door will need to be monitored, as it must be reverting to cold (both hoses hot indicate the heater core is hot, at which time it's just a matter of air direction).

so how do i get to the blend air door??

1986 Toyota 2000GT Ignition System   

1986 Toyoto Celica GT, 1 out of 10 times it will not start. Now tatally won't start. Replaced starter same condition. 12v at starter termianl from battery and 12v at the little black wire on the starter. Checked all fuses...Can anyone help

1986 Toyota Celica GT

You will need to check your ground at the battery to the chassis and also the engine jumper ground wire.
If you indeed have 12 volts to the starter and to the solenoid, then the only thing missing would be a ground.
The solenoid should click out with 12 volts at the small terminal.
this will take place when the key is turned to the start position.
If you want a diagram for your starting system give me your email address I will send you a copy
This does not sound like a complicated issue and we will get the answer you need to solve the problem.

Thank you, my email is [redacted]

It is sent check that ground and you may want to manually hook up the starter to a battery to test it also.

Thanks for Diagram, I double checked all the ground connections with my meter..good. I double checked the voltage at the starter and have 12v coming from battery and No volts on the little black wire when ignition key is turned. I applied 12v at the black wire connection on the starter and it kicks the engine. I removed the black wire from some of its harness to see of there was a break..good. Could it be the starter switch?

yes you need to check the voltage comming out of the switch to see if the switch is bad.
check your wire color code on the diagram.

SW checks ok. I also checked voltage coming out of sw at the "start" position..ok. I checked voltage at the black/wht wire on the other side of connector to sw and I have 12v. Don't know where the blk/wht wire leads to unless I unravel the harness....any suggestions

This wire should go straigt to the starter the black/white check the color to should be consistent at the starter.
It may be just broken and an easy replacement to run a new one problem solved.

Tracing back I find that there is a clutch sw that if not activated the starter will not engage. Checked sw continuity and it has 25 to 125ohm resistance. Think it should be zero. I will replace. Is there an easy way to get this thing out other than removing the clutch pedal

Befor you remove it short the wires from the switch together and see if the car starts I will look at some othe diagrams

clutch sw has intermittant fails with high and low resistance on the meter. Looks like you have to take out the whole clutch assembly????

The only way to remove the switch would be to take out the pedal to get better access
It will not be that differcult.

Already removed the pedal and bracket. Replaced the switch with necessary adjustments and the problem has been resolved. Thanks for all your help. I kept me on the right track.

Good Job sir
You are welcome