Toyota 4 Runner

2003 Toyota 4 Runner Engine   

3VZE Engine had bad rear oil seal leak. Sat for ~2months while away on business trip and drove it home after (oil had drained extremely LOW). Now engine makes tapping noise when under load. I know I have to replace some bearings. What should I look at and most likely replace?

The seal has been repaired? The noise under load probably the rod bearings, Even if oil pressure good, that is first thing I'd check. If badly worn bearing(s) found ,the connecting rods should be resized and the crank machined.With the rod cap and bearing off the suspected crank journal, measure it twice 90 degrees apart. The measurements should be the same.Bearings are usually of a tri-metal construction, if copper shows, they are worn.The suspect bearings are often noticed by rocking them side to side before the caps are removed.

2000 Toyota 4 Runner Engine Malfunction Happens always Always

I have a "check engine" light in my 200 Toyota 4 runner. I took it to Auto Aone and they did a diognostic under the dash. The codes are;PO 304, PO171 (4cyl) and O2 sensor bank 1 lean. My question is my son is a front yard fairly decent mechanic. I have a Haynes book. Is the testing to determine which sensor is bad and is replacing the bad one an easy job? Should I take it to a mechanic?
I am a Grandma and don't really have the money for a big bill.
Thank you!
PS I don't know if this is exhaust???? Or what???

Install new spark plugs and spark plug wires. Have your son inspect the coil towers for signs of corrosion. Also have him pay close attention to the condition of the plugs and wires.

After you do this have autozone reset the check engine light.

Note- It is best to use original equipment spark plugs and wires.

Let me know what you find.

I want to see if I understand you. Are you saying that the whole problem could be the plugs and wires?
Are you saying check them first and see if the O2 senor still shows up at Auto Zone? If it clears up I will be good to go?!!
Thank you very much!
Linda

You have a P0304 code which is a misfire code. The most common cause is a spark plug/wire.

When a spark plug doesn't fire as it should the smoke from the exhaust gets dirty (chemically speaking). The O2 sensor will report the problem to the computer. The computer will then turn on the check engine light. When an O2 sensor code appears DIY's (and some mechanics) frequently replace the O2 sensor when it is not necessarily the problem.

No guarantee new plugs and wires will fix the problem. But these parts are most likely to cause a misfire, can be replaced easily by your son, need to be replaced as reguraly scheduled maintenance, and it will save money to have your son do it.
A common scenario is mechanics suggesting a complete tune-up. It's exspensive at a garage.
Make sure to use OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts. Don't confuse 'OEM Approved' or 'Lifetime Warranty' as acceptable alternatives. The reason for OEM parts is to avoid problems with cheap aftermarket parts that may duplicate the problem or create a new one. Another reason is to avoid a mechanic telling you he can't trust the inferior parts you installed (and this usually comes from good mechanics) and needs to install OEM.

So what I'm saying is:

1. Install oem wires and plugs
2. Have autozone erase the codes
3. Cross you fingers and yes- if the check engine light stays off you are good to go.

If this don't fix the problem let me know. I will give you additional instructions to pass on to your son. You can email me directly if you wish,
[redacted]

Forgot to mention, if the check engine light comes on after repairs revisit autozone and have the codes read again. Write down the exact code number they give (just as you did before:)
And if you email me please put something like "toyota misfire" in the subject line so your email is not mistaken for junk mail.

2000 Toyota 4 Runner Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving Always

2000 4Runner/2wd When I get up to about 70mph, I get a huge vibration that shakes the whole truck. I've gone over 70 and let my foot off the gas and the vibration disappears instantly. Reaply power and it comes right back. Isn't affected by engine rpm, same symptoms with over drive on and off. I'm thinking universal joints. Have looked and the front seems to have fluid leak (black grease)with torn gaskets and the back is dry and rusty looking. How do I replace them? The front is daunting. There are no bolts, just a solid looking joint. The rear does have 4 bolts and 2 brackets holding two parts of the joint, so that seems to be the starting place for that one if I need to replace both. Thanks in advance for your help. D-

Hello, Can you get under the 4 Runner and grasp the drive shaft near the u-joints and attempt to move the driveshaft up and down? Will this procedure show you which joint has excessive movement?

It sounds like you'll find the front u-joint to have the problem if it has a torn grease boot and deprived of lube.

Look at the rear transmission mount for condition too. It may be broken and allow improper alignment of the driveshaft under load.

Ask your local parts store which u-joints they sell (front/rear) for your 4 Runner. If you can hold a new part in your hand you often can tell how it installs.

Does your local public library offer reference books that will guide you with the repair? I'll help anyway I can, but sometimes having the book in front of you can't be beat.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Haven't heard from you. Do you still need help?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

Ready to close this question? It's been a long time now.

Thanks,

Roger

2000 Toyota 4 Runner Electrical / Lighting Systems   

In my dashboard, I lost my tacometer, speedometer, gas and odometer. My temperature gauage works. I thought maybe it was a fuse, but I didn't find one popped.

You will want to recheck the fuses and check that there is 12 volkts on each side of each fuse while the car is running
sometimes they appear to be ok but are still blown also check under the hood for a bad fuse in the auxillary fuse box
If all checks out then you can have your PCM scanned at a aauto parts store to find out what fault codes are stored in the computer
That will definately tell you where the problem is located
I hope this helps

2000 Toyota 4 Runner All Part Groups   

The odometer quit working. the display works and the trip mileage and other functions work ok. Thanks

Hello, The instrument has the fault when one of the functions drops out. The vehicle speed sensor provides one signal for speedometer, odometer, and trip mileage. The same signal is used for cruise control.

See if you can find a local speedometer shop to get an estimate for repair, or contact a Toyota Parts Dept for their recommendation.

Roger

1999 Toyota 4 Runner Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Please describe, in detail, how to remove and reinstall the strut assembly.

Hello,

Do you still need help? I can tell you where to get instructions but am unable to give them to you.

Yes, I still need help.

You can purchase a one day subscription from Toyota. If you bought the subscription at 9-am today it would expire at midnight the following day (39 hours if my math is right). Cost is $10 which is a bit high but is the best site available.

http://techinfo.toyota.com/index.html

Another option is a one year subscription to alldata.com DIY version. This will cost 24.95 (each additional vehicle is 14.95). Most people are very satisfied with alldata, although a few make a 'no-data' comment.

I would go with toyota if this is a one time repair. If you plan on doing any other work to your vehicle go with alldata. If you purchase a subscription be sure to look at TSB's for your vehicle. These will help to alert you of future problems.

Another option, especially if you live in a city, is the library. Many are well stocked with repair manuals and some have online repair manuals (I assume you need to be a member).

autozone.com has free repair guides for many vehicles, unfortunately one is not available at this time for the 1999.

For what it's worth toyota has a promotional contest going on and you could win $200 in 'toyota dollars'.

http://toyotapartsandservice.com/

1999 Toyota 4 Runner Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I AM TRYING TO PROGRAM THE KEALESS ENTRY REMOTE ON MY 1999 4RUNNER I HAVE IT ALL THE WAY UP TO THE LAST PART WHERE YOU INSERT THE KEY AND TURN IT TO THE ON LOCK POSITION 1 THRUE 5 TIMES AND I DONT KNOW HOW MANY TIMES TO DO IT OR IF I AM MISSING ANOTHER STEP I TYED ALL 5 ONE AT A TIME AND I AM STILL UNABEL TO USE MY REMOTE PLEAS HELP.

if your replying tonight i will be checking back from time to time i am new to this so i am not sure how it work,s but i am assumeing you will get to me when you get a chance.

i am also needing to know how to remove the wood trim on the center instrament panel i.e. the stereo and climate controle i need to fix the lights in the climate controle it is the same 1999 toyota 4runner limited. thank you for your help.

hello any body out there.

Sorry for the delay. I'll look to see if I have the instructions you need. I'll post back as soon as I get a chance.

i have gotten the instructions and what it is doing is instead of confirming with 1 lock unlock it gave me 2 lock unlock,s so i don,t know what to do next. i need to know how to 1 clear all the code,s as my memory is probably full or i need to know what it means when it gives me 2 lock unlock,s instead of 1 for confirmation. thank you for your reply i wasn,t sure of what to do whith this service i look forward to talking with you. thank you shannon.

I am unable to find anything that'll be of help to you without a Toyota capable scanner. I'll release the question and hopefully another tech will have a solution that doesn't require a trip to the dealer.

Hello, I'll offer what I have:

Step 1 - open drivers side door and get in your vehicle.

Step 2 - put key completely into ignition,then pull out.

Step 3- with door open, lock and unlock 5 times on door console (ten clicks total).

Step 4 - close door then open door.

Step 5 - lock and unlock 5 times on door console (ten clicks total).

Step 6 - put key completely into ignition then turn to the on position then pull key out (you will now hear the door locks lock then unlock a couple of times)

Step 7 - now quickly press the lock and unlock buttons at the same time only for about a second.

Step 8 - then quickly press the lock (or unlock) button for just a second.

Step 9 - exit car and close the door

After you do this you should hear a beep then your lights will flash. This will indicate that your remote is programmed to your vehicle.


Roger

hey i dont know why but this time it worked. i receaved the same instructoins from the dealer and just for the record when you get to the part where you lock and unlock door you do it 10 times close door open door lock and unlock door 10 times (thats 1lock 2 unlock 3 lock 4 unlock etc...) other than that you were right.

now that,s is out of the way i need to lnow what i can do about my digital climate controle panel i dont have lights in the digital display i took it apart as far as the mother board in side the display and i was haveing a hard time getting the mother board out so i stop,d i was wanting to know if the light was replaceabel or if i am barking up the wrong tree. thanks for the info. shannon

My instructions on step #3 states "ten clicks total"... the same as your example "(thats 1lock 2 unlock 3 lock 4 unlock etc...)"

The protocol of this site is for a provider to respond to your posted question. I've gladly done that for you.

To accept my answer so that I may be paid please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

If you desire to post another question please repeat the steps you took when you asked the original question. That is fair and good business.

Thanks, I'm glad for the positive results you received.

Roger

1998 Toyota 4 Runner All Part Groups   

4 wheel drive will not engage,indicator light does not come on,also when you shit into 4 wheel drive you hear a click noise inside on passanger side

It sounds like your hubs are bad and the only “fix” is to replace them.
were there any stored codes on your PCM?

1998 Toyota 4 Runner Ignition System   

I get a p1300 obdII code, I have replaced the igniter, the ecm, and one coil pack. I have ordered 2 more coil packs, when the problem was occurring and I replaced the one coil pack the problem went away for a day. Drove it to work and it ran fine, on the way home it would miss, also at high speed the rpm drops and then it shuts off, at idle the rpm drops and then it shuts off, always shows the same code P1300.

I need to know what engine you have and did you already do amajor tune up?
some thing as simple as spark plugs or wires can set this very code.
even a vacume leak in the intake manifold is one thing worth checking out
let's look at some of the simple things to make sure that nothing is overlooked.
there are quite a few tests that can be done before going on to the next stage.

I think that you need to start testing some of these componets before doing the replacement as this can be very costly.

the pcm cannot really be tested so you have alredy replaced the unit.
now test the coil that you have before replacement.

I plan to replace the coils, I have changed the spark plugs o bosch ir fusions, I changed the wires to ngk, I do not know how to check for vacuum leaks, I do not know how to test the egr, I have replaced the pcv. I also recently replaced o2 sensor.

What engine do you have?Have you already changed out your fuel filter?
You can purchase a can of carburater cleaner and spray it in areas around the intake manifold and the vacume hoses and listen for a any change in the rpm of the engine.
This is the way to test for a vacume leak.
Not always but 90 percent of the time you a faulty emmission componet would show a code at the time of your scan.
Did you do a engine running self diagnostic on the truck yet, or will it not go into self diagnostic mode because of the miss?

I have a v6 3.4l, I have a code scanner but I do not know how to do a self diagnostic through the vehicle.
When I run the scanner on the car it says all sensors are ok, the only code it has shown is p1300, the scanner is not setup for toyota, but rather is set up for a generic obdII car. I will do the vacuum test check, and check the egr, I also plan to replace the harness from the igniter to the coils, the plastic piece that holds the wires away from the engine (over the valve cover) is broken and the wires may be bad.
If you have any suggestions please let me know, thanks.

The documentation that comes along with the scanner also explains in detail how to do a self diagnostic.
The harness thing is a good Idea

I ran a full diagnostic, and all systems are operating ok. I let the car sit for a few days, cleared the code and the car ran fine for a few days, then it started dropping rpms at idle, from 1000 to about 500, but it did not stall, and no code. Then on the way to work at about 50 mph rpms dropped for a few seconds, then revved back up to normal, it did this a few times, at lower speeds or at idle it began to stall. Codes are p1300 and p0300. Please tell me what I should do now
Thanks

The P1300 is a code for loss of IGF signal to the PCM while engine is running. This can be caused by an open or short from either the IGF or IGT to PCM, a bad igniter, or bad PCM.
These acronyms are all relating to ignition signals.
The only way of telling for sure is to replace the pcm.
I did not find any TSB's for that problem but it will be hard to put a finger on it before it gets worse being that it is not consistent enough.
You would have to have the car on a monitor and a labscope to cacth a problem of that sort athat keeps on clearing itself.

1998 Toyota 4 Runner Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Occasionally there is nothing there when you apply the brakes on my 4 runner. One opinion is that due to short haul trips in cold weather, condensation builds up in the brake line and freezes. What do you think? Any solution? PS--This has already caused an accident.

99% of the time, an intermittent situation when the brake pedal goes to the floor, it is a bad master cylinder. The other possibility is an overheating brake which can boil the brake fluid and make the brake pedal go to the floor without any braking action. Water contaminated brake fluid can make this worse. Replacing your brake fluid every 2 years is a good idea.

Regarding condensation in the brake line. If the line froze, you would get a hard, high pedal with no brake action. Also, you should have DOT 3 brake fluid in your truck which absorbs moisture. This meeans moisture will not collect at any point in the brake hydraulic system, but will be absorbed. This is the reason why an occasional brake fluid flush is in order.

The brake pedal does not go to the floor. It feels more like when you are trying to apply power brakes to stop a vehicle when the engine is not running.

Regarding the freezing possibility, I got it a bit wrong. What the person actually suggested was that due to short trips in cold weather there could be condensation forming and then freezing in the vacuum line which draws warm air from the engine into the power braking system.

I am not mechanically inclined, so I hope this makes sense. Do you think this could be the problem? If so, what might be a solution to the problem?

Thanks.

That could be a slight possibility. Consider the following questions:
Does this problem only occur during freezing conditions?
Does it happen on the first braking attempt in the morning (if you park outside), or the first braking attempt after being parked in the cold for a while?

There is a check valve in the vacuum line at the brake booster. It could stick/freeze, but note these facts:
-The vacuum brake system becomes charged with vacuum within about 5 seconds after the engine is started.
-The charge it holds is sufficient to give power for about 5 brake applications.
-The brake booster should hold vacuum for a long time after the engine is stopped. You can test it in a parking lot by turning the engine off, counting how many pumps of the brake you get before the power runs out, start the engine, shut it off, wait a minute, then count the pumps again. It should be the same, or almost the same. This indicates no leaks. If this test fails, replace the check valve and/or booster.

Interesting----The brakes have done this a few times, but only since the temperature has turned cold.

In all cases, the brakes did work for the first few applications, then failed. Is it possible that the brake system could have enough charge left to make them work those few times, but then fail because of that frozen/stuck flapper valve? In all cases the vehicle would have been sitting for several hours before driving it.

I appreciate your help. It sounds like we could be zeroing in on the problem. Please give me any final comments you might have and if possible give me an indication of how much I might expect to pay to have
that flapper valve replaced. Thanks again.

PS--I won't be able to test the truck until I get it back from the AutoBody Shop. I wasn't kidding about the brake problem already causing an accident. Thankfully nobody was hurt!
Do you think by changing the valve it would solve the issue? What's to stop it from happening to the new valve?

Good clues, and good questions too.

I have never seen this problem yet, but as you are a "thinking " kind of person, you may be able to help solve this. The check valve should be less than $20 from the dealer and take about 5-10 minutes to change.

Try some of those tests I suggested, to try to further understand/eliminate the cause of this problem. Feel how the power assist decreases on applicatioin when the engine is off. Is that the same way the pedal felt when you had the accident?

Perhaps the old valve has collected some dirt that is more prone to icing than what a new valve would be?

If you think you may have been operating on the reserve charge, try applying the brakes in the morning before starting the truck and see how many pumps you get before it gets hard. (most, but not necessarily all, vehicles will leak down overnight) Then if that matches, you can safety check your truck, by pumping out the reserve, starting it and making sure if fills with vacuum again.

1997 Toyota 4 Runner All Part Groups   

My clutch seems to be working fine until I push it down too far and then it sticks and I have to bring it up with my toe in order for it to work again. Does it need a whole new clutch or just a spring or something?

Is the clutch pedal easier or harder than normal to push?

Start by inspecting and lubricating the clutch pedal arm assembly and see if there is any improvement. Let me know and we'll go from there.

1997 Toyota 4 Runner Interior Components   

When I start my 97 limited toyota 4runner there is a buzzing sound along with the sound of heavy air flow as if the air/heat were on full blast, but its off. The buzzing is constant as long as the car's on. Seems to be coming from odd vent underneath passenger seat. Help please.

What engine do you have
feel underneath the car while it is buzzing so you can isolate the exact location.
Also pull the air heater fuse to see if the noise is still there when you start the car.

1997 Toyota 4 Runner Ignition System   

When I turn the ignition switch off, it will turn the motor and radio off, but the a/c fan keeps running,radio antennae stays up, and I can still operate all the windows up and down. In addition, the engine oil light and seat belt light is still illuminated.

Unless some one has been messing with the fusepanel wiring (unlikely) then the culprit is the ignition switch.They have multiple connections, on newer vehicles, and several circuits in the switch are ön"at the same time. There are very small strips in the switch (not repairable) but a replacement switch is no big deal.

So, is it likely that the ignition switch would just go bad without any warning signs? Thanks. Dan

Yes they can stop working rather abruptly.
They usually do not gradually get worse, they just quit.
The only way to test it is with a voly/ohm meter or a test light.
When you shut key off, see if there is current in more than one place.There should be 12volts in the main power wire and no where else, when key is off. A simple test.

1996 Toyota 4 Runner Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

1996 4runner. When engine is cold sometimes engine will not start. When key is turner over sometimes I hear a clicking sound like the starter is not engaging or I may get no sound at all. It may take 6 or 8 trys before truck will finally turn over. I've checked the battery and it has almost 14 volts going to the starter. The problem come and goes and only happens when the truck is cold. Do you think this a starter or a ignition switch problem. Thanks

It could be your batt or your starter still.
I dobpt that you have a problem ignition.
Clean your cables and check your connections have your batt and starter Load tested at an asutoparts store free of charge
it is not the volts but the amperage that is possibly lacking.
Hope this helps

1996 Toyota 4 Runner All Part Groups   

My daughter's 96 Toyota 4 runner has a water pump going out. The dealer said when they replace it they should also change the timing belt which was changed 60,000 miles ago. It has around 160,000 miles on the engine. Is it necessary to change the timing belt in this scenario or could she just get the water pump replaced?

Hello, If your daughter will be keeping this vehicle I strongly recommend replacing the timing belt at the same time. You will have taken advantage of part of the labor already being included.

60K miles is the recommended maintenance interval stated in the data bases I subscribe to.

Questions?,

Roger

Roger, what could or would happen on her 4Runner or say my 99' V-6 Toyota Camry if the timing belt was not changed at 60,000 miles? If it went out while driving, would it ruin the engine?

Neither the Camry nor the 4Runner have what is called an interferrence engine. If the timing belt snaps just turn off the engine immediately and tow the vehicle from there. Valves out of time should not be struck by pistons as in earlier year models.

It's fair to clarify that the 60K belt replacement interval targets engines that idle for long periods of time or are driven for long periods at slow speeds. (Taxi, Police, etc.)

Your call on gambling the difference and running over 60K between belt replacement. I base my personal advice on the tears of many customers who gambled and lost.

If you will keep the vehicle yet awhile the belt is preventive maintenance that will reward you with peace of mind.

Roger

Thanks so much for your expert advice Roger.

Sincerely,

John Rietcheck in Kansas

You are welcome Sir! To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

1995 Toyota 4 Runner All Part Groups   

My 1995 4Runner drives fine for 10-15 miles on highway, then will simply stop running. Usually I can shift into neutral and restart the car, and it will run fine again for a time. I have had the car checked with no result, the mechanic says it is fine. It seems to be electrical or fuel related, but I cannot be sure. Any ideas?

Hi, Try driving the vehicle with a fuel pressure test guage attached so you can monitor the pressure.

What engine please? Has the fuel filter been changed or at least checked?

Roger

The engine is a V6 3.0 Liter EFI, automatic transmission.

I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, I will do that first thing. I believe the mechanic did a fuel system pressure check, but I will ask him also first thing.

Tracy

PS: THanks for your help by the way.

I'm suggesting driving the vehicle with the fuel pressure guage connected so that when the engine stops one can tell if fuel pressure was the cause.

The changing of the in-line fuel filter is a maintainance item and I recommend their replacement every 30,000 miles. It may or not be an issue here.

Roger

I will have the fuel filter changed first thing. Is the fuel pressure gauge something I can do myself? If not, I'll have the mechanic do it.

Tracy

If you have access to a test guage you can do it yourself....will the mechanic take your word on what you find?

If when changing the fuel filter you discover it to be restricted you may have corrected the problem.

If fuel pressure does not drop off but the engine dies it may be a sensor such as the crankshaft position sensor that is failing. Without the signal from this sensor the computer won't "know" the engine is turning and both fuel and spark will be cut off.

Roger

Cool, so starting with a fuel filter...will move to the pressure test after...then on to the sensor next.

Thanks again Roger, I'll keep you posted.

Tracy

I'll be checking in from time to time. I'll help any way I can.

Oh, neither a fuel issue or a crankshaft position sensor will turn on the check engine light. Neither will set a diagnostic code.

Roger

Thanks roger,

The mechanic said he ran a diagnostic and found nothing. These two issues sound like a potential fix.

Tracy

Do you want to leave the question open for a few days to see what happens?

I'm a bit confused with your saying "These two issues sound like a potential fix."

What's next?

Merry Christmas to you!!

Roger

1995 Toyota 4 Runner Engine   

I have a 3.0 liter V6, 5 speed manual. I was driving along, came to a stop, pushed the clutch pedal in, and the tachometer went to zero. But the engine was still running fine. Giving gas and increasing RPM to where I new it was at least at around 2000 RPM, and the tachometer was reading around 1000 RPM. Driving the car further, I noticed that as the engine reved to higher RPM's, the tach would shoot up past where the engine was actually running (I just now this from how fast the motor should spin in various gears and speeds).

The tach needle moves smoothly as the RPM's come up, but it is like it all of a sudden is off scale / out of sync with what the engine is actually doing. The engine runs great. What could be the problem?

The tachometer may be defective, but first inspect the wiring under-hood. Make sure there is no interference at the coil/module, especially from a bad spark plug wire. Check this by having an assistant raise the engine rpm's while you observe for stray spark from the wires- USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS!! Darkness will aid greatly with find bad plug wires.

If you don't have a drop in fuel economy, no check engine light while the engine is running, and no stalling problem, it may not be necessary to repair the problem.

1994 Toyota 4 Runner Electrical / Lighting Systems   

trouble light goes on and off

If this is the "Check Engine" light you likely have a sensor that is intermittently failing. Oxygen sensors are common on older vehicles. You'll need to have the trouble codes checked to determine which sensor/circuit for sure. Call your local autoparts store and see if they can check the codes (free service when available.)

1994 Toyota 4 Runner Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Where is the power window relay or fuse for a 1994 Toyota 4runner. I saw smoke coming from wires at the wires leading into the door jamb and I repaired the shorted wires but the power windows still don't work

Hi, There is a 30 amp circuit breaker that powers the power windows. It is located in the fuse box inside the vehicle. A door control relay distributes power to the window motors as needed when a switch is activated. The guage fuse and the dome fuse also supply power to the door control relay.
Are all of these fuses good? Did you remove the door panel trim and look for damage inside the door the smoke came from?

I'm looking for a pic of the location for the door control relay.

Roger

The door control relay is located behind the left side of the instrument panel. It has a 14 pin connector.

Also you'll find behind the left front kick panel a Cassette Relay Block containing a 30 amp Power Fuse relative to powering the door control relay.

How am I doing for you?

Roger

The 30 amp circuit breaker was indeed the problem. It is located where you said it would be and it is a pink breaker althought there is no marking on the panel or on the fuse that it is for the power window relay. Thanks so much for your help!

To accept my answer and close the question please click on OK to finish up. I thank you!

Roger

1993 Toyota 4 Runner Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always

Hello,

I have a 1993 4Runner that I purcahsed new. For a number of years it has made a slight rattling noise when there's no load on the engine (i.e. during shifting and at certain RPM's). This noise has gotten louder over the last three years. Early on, the dealership said it was inherent with 4runner clutches, but now I'm told they believe it's a wrist pin on a piston rod. I don't feel this is true considering it doesn't make the noise continuously.

Someone recently told me 2nd generation 4Runners with manual transmissions made this noise, but that it could be eliminated with a larger pressure plate in the clutch.

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

If you give the engine size, two ro four wheel drive, etc I'll check for service bulletins related to this noise. Also, is it rpm specific (does it matter what the engine temperature is)?

Thanks for your reply. It's a 6 cylinder (3.0 liter), 4 wheel drive. Temperature is not a factor.
When driving, I can back-off the gas and at certain RPM's it will make the noise constantly.

Please let me knowif you require any additional information.

Thanks again.

THE BEST WAY T5O NARROW DOWN THIS PROBLEM IS TO GET A STETHESCOPE WITH A CONNECTED TUBE ON IT AND LISTEN NTO WHERE THE NOISE SEEMS TO BE THE LOAUDEST AND FIND WHICH SIDE THE NOISE IS ORIGINATING FROM.
ALSO DISCONNECT ONE SPARK PLUG WIRE [ONE AT A TIME] AND SEE IF THE NOISE CHANGES AT A TIME

What I was looking for was some history or background information related to what this could be.

The noise has gotten more pronounced over the last few years. I’m getting ready to sell this vehicle and want to be able to tell the buyer what this noise is.

The current local Toyota service writer tells me manual transmission early ’90’s 4Runners made a rattling noise.

The previous tech said he (and the mechanic) believes it’s a wrist pin on a piston rod. The stethoscope analysis will have to be done at a shop.

So, had I known this would be the recommendation from All-Parts, I would have taken it to a shop in the first place.

I’ve already paid the dealership for a diagnosis once.

If you have already taken it to a dealership and they came up with this conclusion, I would say that should be the better diagnosis because they actually had your car in their shop and all the tools neccesary to come up with a cause for the noise.
I understand that they are not always 100 percent correct, but there is no perfect mechanic either.
I would go as far as to say that you took your car to the Dealership which is so called the "Authority"
I would go with the dealership as they always seem to have the best equiptment and they work on that particular vehicle more often that does a general mechanic.
I would be hard pressed to believe that the dealership missed a problem as a malfunctioning wrist pin
If it is the wrist pin you are concerned about before you sell the truck as opposed to a service bulletin of a common problem known to toyota (by the way that I have not been able to find in my research).
Her is so info on that diagnosis so that you can narrow it down

Wrist pin knock in modern engines is very rare today but is a favorite for the misdiagnosticians.

Determining which cylinder contains the noisy parts may be aided by shorting out the plug wires one by one with a common low voltage test light. Now you won't get the bulb to light up but it is a convenient way to short the cylinders without getting zapped or damaging the ignition coil.

Attach the alligator clip to a convenient ground, away from fuel system components, and pierce the wire boots at the coilpack or distributor end of the wire.

If the noise is changed when the plug wire is shorted to ground, you can figure that the problem is in the reciprocating bottom end parts. (piston, wrist pin, connecting rod or connecting rod bearing)

The reason the sound changes is that when you short the cylinder plug wire you are stopping the combustion chamber explosions that are slamming the piston downward making the inside of the big end of the connecting rod bang against it's connecting rod journal. Or in the case of piston slap, no explosion changes how the piston is shoved hard sideways against the cylinder wall.

If you get a change in the sound when you short a cylinder out it may become moot as to what the problem is because the oil pan and cylinder head must be removed to correct the problem. [Generally speaking, an engine with damage to reciprocating parts (pistons, rings, connecting rods, wrist pins or rod bearings) and more than 70 thousand miles is not cost effective or risk free enough to attempt to repair. Replacing a crankshaft, for example while the rest of the engine has 70k perfectly maintained miles on it is risky enough but whatever killed the crank has scored the rings and packed the lifters with debris and smoked the piston pin bosses etc.]

If the sound doesn't change, look at parts other than the reciprocating ones. In many cases of rod-knock or piston slap, more than one is banging so even if you eliminate the noise from one rod the other one will still be a-banging away with a different, more singular tone.

1993 Toyota 4 Runner Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 1993 Toyota 4Runner 4 Wheel Drive. I rarely if ever use 4 wheel drive. At appoxiamately 80 mph, I hear and feel a loud vibration that seems to be coming from the front wheels. It subsides when I drive below this speed and at 70-75 mph. It does not exist. I have new tires and the Steering Rod relay recall was performed recently (problem existed before and after this repair). It's annoying and I get raised eyebrows from my passengers! LOL!
Help!!!

check front drive shaft

1993 Toyota 4 Runner All Part Groups   

1) windshield washer tank & motors 1) back window up & down console switch

what is the question you have concerning the windows?

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

Can you give me details of the problem so that I may assist you in repairing it what is it doing or not doing

1992 Toyota 4 Runner Engine Stalling When accelerating When warm 

why is my motor stalling it gets worse until all it will do is idele rought

You may need a fuel filter. May need a complete tune-up. Need to troubeshoot to find why. Weak fuel pressure caused by a bad pump or plugged filter could give these symptoms. Restricted exhaust, ignition system breaking down.
Does it run fine cold? When was last tune-up?
If you have had a fresh tune-up, start by checking fuel pressure.

it runs fine cold and im not sure on the last tuneup

Try a new fuel filter. Beyond that you will need to have the fuel pressure and exhaust backpressure tested.

Do you still need help?

1992 Toyota 4 Runner Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I turn on my winshield washer pump sometimes my 4 runner sputters and rpm's drop. Fuel pump has been replaced. Any ideas?

If this is the only accessory that causes the rpm drop and sputter there must be a problem with the washer pump or the wiring to the pump.

1992 Toyota 4 Runner Drive Train / Driveline   

my 4 runner does not shift into any gear until it hits 5300 rpm, at same time the engine astarted to run like crap, the computer gave codes for speed servo amnd ecu and then stopped giving codes, please help

Is the check engine light coming on when you turn on the key?

The rev limiter may be kicking in that high of rpms.

Did the computer stop giving any faults codes period, or do you get 'system okay' code.

computer stopped giving fault codes all together and the check engine light does not come on when you turn the key, transmission fluid has been changed, don't know if its related or not but the fuel pump will start the car but shuts down at higher rpms

You can start by checking fuses. This assumes the check engine light was recently working okay.

The computer will shut down fuel fuel if you rev the engine to high, this is by design to prevent damage to the engine.

Douglas,
first off thanks for the time, heres what we found out. There was a blown fuse it was a 7.5 amp fuse, I have no idea what it went to because the cover is missing, the check engine light is now coming on , when we checked it for codes the check engine light would only blink constantly it never stopped. when started the light would go out. when put on a f;loor jack the engine would still cut out and attempt to stall but would not if you let your foot off the accelerator, any clues

If the engine won't rev up now but idles fine, you either have lack of fuel supply (this can be because of inadequate fuel pressure or a sensor problem such as MAF) OR a restricted exhaust (plugged catalytic converter). If you have a restricted converter, you can temporarily remove the oxygen sensor and the engine will rev up right away if this is the problem.

pulled oxygen sensor out car revs up fine replacing the cat, any thoughts on transmission or the check engine light

Replace the cat and disconnect the negative battery cable for ten minutes. Reconnect and test drive. The sensors should function better now, and hopefully cure the other ailments.

replaced the cat battery unhooked, still no shifting

Check the transmission sensors to see if they are working. I assume the fluid level and condition is fine, so next on the list would be transmission line pressure checks- best done by a transmission shops (some do free diagnosis- call ahead).

1992 Toyota 4 Runner Engine   

1992 toyota 4 runner 3.0 chugs and bucks on acceleration and has loss of power. Feel it most uphills or under a load. Tune up did not cure it. All filters changed as well with no cure. HELP!!

Might want to get it scanned for codes, even if there is no check engine light.
Some parts places now offer code reading
for free. If I were guessing, it might be an O2 sensor problem.Or a partially plugged catalytic converter.

1991 Toyota 4 Runner Engine Malfunction When driving No pattern

my 1991 4-runner now has 155,525 miles on it and has been very well taken care of since new... recently began to experience a rough start with what i thought was an engine miss when driving... had a tune-up, plugs, distributor cap w/wires, injector flush etc.. rough idle problem was eliminated after tune up but the miss when driving at any speed still occurs and is intermittent.... mechanic thinks it may be a "power loss" and not a "miss" but is not sure where it is coming from, as all tested fine when he had the car... am not so sure that he is correct from the standpoint that no miss took place before tune-up was needed and i am inclined to think that it may be associated with either the fuel and/or air but am not certain... several months before tune-up, i had a new fuel filter and exhaust installed, along with some other unrelated maintenance items and a new ignition was installed a year or so ago... can you folks offer any suggestions for where to look, as this car has been very great up until this point and i'd like to have it running like it normally does? appreciate any thoughts!

Hello, What engine do you have please? Has a compression test been done? Do you have the results?

Roger

roger: 4-runner has a v-6 engine... and yes, a compression check was done 2x, and no, i do not have the results but all tested fine... new symptom has developed and i'm hopeful that this may be the problem (although, i'm not looking forward to the expense but after 13 years you do expect these things)... had an appointment to have bad cat. converter seal replaced next week but took car today for an undercarriage wash (for salt) and think i may need an entire converter b/c car now sounds like a major hot-rod....
also - mechanic had listed some possibilities for problem, which were pcm relay, distr. pick-up, efi relay and ign. coil but all tested fine, so no preventative measures could or can take place until i guess whatever is causing this miss or loss of power breaks... maybe none of these things were the issue and maybe it is the cat. converter?

Do you feel the engine misfire or do you hear a sound as though there were a miss?

A cylinder electrical ignition misfire (still gets fuel..not spark) will ruin a cat/converter if let go too long. It will glow red hot from fuel ignited by exhaust heat as the unburned fuel from the cylinder that is misfiring is constantly exhuasted during the exhaust cycle of that cylinder.

Relays, dist. pick-up, ignition coil all speak to a system problem and not to just one cylinder. I don't think those things factor here.

With the engine running and the misfire present you should be able to isolate it by using electrically insulated pliers to pull one plug wire off at a time to watch for a drop in engine speed. If speed drops..cylinder is working. No change? Then that cylinder is suspect.
It's an inexpensive way to begin and doesn't rely on the cat/converter to be accurate..

Roger

ps roger - thought of something you wrote after i sent my response which i don't see now, so i will answer your first question again just in case...the miss or loss of power that is felt is intermittent and feels much like hitting a patch of ice before it clears, so will mechanic still be able to perform test that you recommended to test wires if miss is not present?

No, The condition must be present. I reread your stated " miss or loss of power breaks" and I think I'm off track.

I was thinking of a misfire that (when present) continued longer than a moment. Your patch of ice comparison makes me think toward what would cause an event that acts as though for split second the engine "died" and then "recovered" on its own.

Am I in the game?

Roger

roger: all i know is that whatever is happening feels like i have hit a patch of ice and for a split second all seems to be suspended even when my foot is on the gas... you can even feel something like a jolt when this happens, so maybe the engine has died and does recover on its own - i don't know.... if this were a much older vehicle then i think it might buck or backfire as the older ones used to do when the choke was clogged... don't know what's up but know that it coincided with a needed tune-up, so i'm inclined to think that it may have something to do with the fuel or air mixture somewhere but where is the question.. and then again, maybe it's something totally unrelated....karen

Would it be accurate to say that the engine just "cuts-out" for a split second?

Is there a particular vehicle speed/load you can expect this event to happen? I'm wondering about the position of the throttle at the time of the event and what a driver could do to duplicate conditions needed to cause the complaint to repeat itself. Has the trans. finished shifting, does cruise control have an effect?

Roger

r: cuts out, misses, loss of power could all apply... at first the problem seemed to happen only 2nd and 3rd gear but now it happens in any gear and at any speed... had one experience when i think i had just shifted into 3rd gear when it cut out and this miss was much shorter than others...have also noticed that the jolt sensation isn't as pronounced as it was in the beginning.... have not tried cruise control, as i haven't been driving that far or that fast to engage and/or test this....

OK, any gear-any speed. Forget the cruise. Standard transmission?

One of the things few technicians consider is the corrosive effect that snow country has on the relays under the hood. Some one had mentioned relays to you and I thought ??? I'm backing up to allow....that person may be right!

There are relays under the hood in a relay box on the inner skirts of the fenders on many Toyota and Nissan models. The relay terminals may indeed be corroded and a dirty connection effects performance reliability. Heat can build up and cause enough change in resistance values to have a domino effect from a particular system back to the computer circuit (if applicable) or switch that controls them. The terminal can break off. Have the relays been inspected?

I would also want to look at the operation of the throttle position sensor for proper operation. A "dead spot" would factor if found. An OHM meter is used to test it and compare to specified values from Toyota.

Roger

r: will double check w/mechanic in the morning but am pretty sure that relays were tested and like everything else, all was fine at the time of testing, which is the problem with preventative measures...am also going to double check and make sure they have an OBDll scanner b/c i have heard that this is more accurate than other testing scans? if they don't have one then maybe a trip to the dreaded toyota dealer may be the way to go....

will let you know what the results are after they can take a look at the car.... still am hopeful that maybe the cat. converter is the cause, as the miss is a fairly new problem and someone suggested the cat. as a possible area before it had a problem, so i guess i will now find out...

OBD II wasn't introduced until about 1996. That would exclude your vehicle's benefitting from an OBD II Scanner. Let me know where I can help.

Off to a Super Bowl party,

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

still could use it, as problem still exists but is not as pronounced as it was... a few told me that it might be my clutch, which was in need of being replaced but it turns out this wasn't the problem...

car runs like new with the exception of this hard to locate problem that may be somewhere in the ignition... trying to be aware of any symptoms to try and help mechanic and so far there were 1-2 occassion where i turned car off and tried to start approximatley 10 minutes later and it was hard to start - like it was flooded...

all i know is warmer weather is coming and i hate not being able to venture too far from home, so i'm hoping that i will locate whatever part is malfunctioning or it will break once and for all b/c this could drag on for years!!

Karen, Have you been in the vehicle (preferably driving) and had the mechanic ride along to duplicate this complaint for him?

We've never talked about monitoring the fuel pressure while driving. I recently had a car drive me to tears before I drove it with a fuel pressure test gauge connected. The needle on the gauge "blinked" for a split second and the engine stumbled at that very moment. A fuel pump fixed it. Just a thought.

Roger

roger: mechanic actually experienced the problem once and only once, so he knows i'm not crazy... will mention the fuel pump and monitoring to him, but part of the problem is getting it to be consistent enough to diagnose...

Amen! If there was ever an attribute I stressed while teaching it was to verify/duplicate the complaint. To ask an owner to finance a guess is far less than good business though I have had owners insist that I try. Those are the ones I will insist they initial my estimate and sign a fault disclaimer.

Hang in there.

Roger

1991 Toyota 4 Runner Engine   

Engine is burning oil ( I think). I ran the trouble codes and it gave me trouble code 12, which is RPM signal. The book says "short in NE, G circut, distributor, short in STA circut, or ECM" what is the best starting point to stop it from burning?

If the check engine light is not on and you don't experience any driveability problems, the trouble code may be meaningless.

Check thoroughly for oil leaks. Make sure the pvc valve is working. The most likely cause of oil burning is worn valve seals. Worn rings can also cause this, but that would require an engine rebuild (which I don't recommned if it comes to down to it). Start with the valve seals.

Cheap oil can also make a big difference in oil consumption.

Is the PVC valve something servicable, or shoud I just replace it. What is the diagnostic procedure for the PVC valve?

Shake it to see if it clicks, it will if the valve is functional. Not likely the problem, but not something that should be overlooked. It is recommneded that you change them every so often anyway, so if you can find a good price...

1991 Toyota 4 Runner Drive Train / Driveline   

When driving the car, you have to floor it, and you get basically no acceleration. The trans shift fine and doenst jerk or miss, but it the engine almost gets to red line before it shifts. What is the best course of action?

Start by checking the shift down linkage from the transmission to the throttle body. This assumes the transmission is not slipping and the fluid is full.

I was planning to change the filter and fluid anyways, but it does have fluid. I thought it was engine related, but was steered towards the trans. I hear no grinding and no slipping, but this occurres whenever you drive, be it from a dead stop, or driving on the street. If I replace the down shift sensor, and it doesnt work where else should I look. Would a bad torque converter do this? Its got 200+ thousand miles on it, would it hurt to just replace all the seals, etc (ie rebuild kit)?

1991 Toyota 4 Runner Windows / Glass   

the close button stuck on my sun roof and I think the drive mechanism strained the pulley?/wire system I believe a cable broke. There is about 1/2" gap where the glass should seat flush with the roof. The motor works but it won't close. Suggestions, directions or parts?

Hello, If the sun roof is factory installed seek a dealer service dept estimate to repair. Their techs have the better training to repair this problem.

If the sun roof is an aftermarket installation try to find out who made it and who works on that brand.

You may be successful just looking in the Yellow Pages for a specialty shop for sun roofs. They may be able to work on it no matter what brand.

Parts for sun roof options tend to be proprietary to the manufacturer. Shop for local assistance or estimates.

Roger

To actually get inside and have a look yourself, you will have to remove the plastic trim, sunvisors and then the
actual headliner.
You will then see how it operates. My guess is it has plastic gear(s) that are stripped. Sometimes avail at a dealer or an autowrecker, the wrecker is my preferred choice as the last time a dealer sold me sunroof parts they wanted to sell me motor-tracks-gears etc as an assy, and that was very much $$$

are special tools required to remove/replace the trim and headliner?

No but considering the age of the Toyota, you have to be careful as the plastic is gonna be brittle

is the plastic molded with extruded pins or clips which can be eased out with a putty knife?

Yes, there is a cheap trim tool that looks like a bent putty knife with a V groove in middle...putty knife may work.

1990 Toyota 4 Runner Fuel System   

I have replaced the fuel filter and the mass air flow meter (per a mechanic) but it still is not running right. Once I step on the gas it bogs down and dies. What could be wrong? It starts fine.

It sounds like you have a intake manifold leak or a bad vacume hose on the intake side
Check all the hoses and make sure they are tight and sealed correctly
before you star replacing any more parts go to a auto parts store and rent a code scanner so that you can see if there are any stored codes inthe computer and go from there that will save you a lot of guessing headaces and money
I hope this helps

Thank you. I think we're going to try the to rent the code thing and see what happens. This is my sons car and he is so frustrated. I feel bad for him after all the work he's done on it. He finally had taken it to the mechanic yesterday and the mechanic said it was the air flow thing. That cost him $95.00 just for checking and the guy wanted to charge him $800.00 to replace it. My son bought the part for $250.00 and replaced it himself only to find out that must not have been it. Thanks for your help.

or you can have a auto parts store scan your car they do it free of charge

1990 Toyota 4 Runner Engine   

I recently had an auto shop complete major engine work (head gasket, valves, water pump, timing belt) after developing a head gasket leak. The engine has 140k miles on it. The first two weeks of city driving indicated no problems. I drove 70 miles at interstate speed (60 - 75 MPH) and picked up what sounds like valve clatter/chatter. The mechanic's solution was to add an additive. He claims the chatter has been significantly reduced excpet for one lifter. He wants me to drive it for a while to see if the problem stays or goes away. Next step is to now do major lifter work at an additional high cost. I have already spent $1800 on this vehicle.What actions should I take?

what engine size?

6 cyl

The engine is a 3.0L V6

lifters are or should be included in head job any good shop/mechanic would have replaced them at that time regardless-----
does the clatter only happen on acceleration or at all times

The clatter happens at all times.

another cause would be timing off

How would the timing being off cause the problem only after driving on the interstate? The problem did n't show up during two weeks of city driving - including driving on the interstate to/from work (10 miles one way). It only showed up after a 70 mile trip on interstate. I picked up the truck today. The lifter noise is significantly reduced but still present at low speeds. The mechanic put in an additive called "amazing oil", or something sounding like it, and wants me to drive it (city only) for a week or so to see if the noisy lifter settles in. Does this sound resonable?

yes it does if that solution doesnt work change oil and add m o a it can be got from any napa parts store i missed the 2 week part

OK. Due to the amazing miracle oil, the oil pressure registers very low once the engine temperature gets to the middle range. Even at operating speeds (2000+ RPM) the oil gauage only registers to the 1/4 level. When at an idle it drops to almost the far left tick mark on the gauge. I sure wish I had a gauage that gave PSI readings. I contacted the auto shop and they want it back in to check it - again. So far they have had the truck more than I have in the last 30 days since I had the major repair work done.

sounds like a problem have u used this shop before?

So far you have not provided me any useful technical advice. The question of whether I have used this mechanic before is irrelevant.

You could obtain an oil pressure gauge and to check the readings yourself.

How long was the vehicle driven with a blown head gasket? This can cause damage to the engine bearings, which in turn will give you low oil pressure (low pressure readings and the valve train can get noisy). There is always a risk when replacing head gaskets.

As soon as I noticed white smoke/steam from the exhaust, I stopped driving it and had it repaired.

Regarding the low oil pressure, it seems to be occurring less. The pressure was normal for most of my 30-minute drive to work. After 30 minutes it started registering low (first 1/4 of the gauge) but did not go as low as it did the day before.

The lifter clatter also seems to be less prominent. The mechanic told me that one of the lifters was still sticking. He added the "amazing miracle oil" (or something that sounded like it) and wanted me to drive (city only) for a week or so and see if the lifter settled in. I just don't want to cause serious damage to the engine.

1990 Toyota 4 Runner Electrical / Lighting Systems   

10 amp dash display fuse keeps blwoing. Happened first with AC on, fan on medium, threw the car in reverse with the indicator (turn signal) on and POP. REplaced fuse, turned car on, turned on AC, POP. Replaced fuse, turned car on, put down back window, POP. So what can it be? A short in the electrical lines thru the tailgate?? I haul various stuff and don't deny the possibility of stuff breaching the wraps on the wiring in the back end there. Car has 274K miles on it, this is the FIRST electrical problem I know of with it. Had very very close to failing battery when it happened.

If the fuse is blowing quickly it might be best to eliminate components one by one to isolate the component/area of the problem. For test purposes you may want to use a circuit breaker (preferably slightly lower amperage if you can find one). Never use a fuse with a higher amperage rating or replace fuses repeatedly without a cool down period, the risk of fire too great.

If you leave your email address I'll send a wiring diagram for this circuit.

What do you notice losing when the fuse blows?

It's the 10A dash display fuse, so the fuel gauge goes, the tach, the batt charge indicator gauge, the fuel gauge (sticks at 1/2 tank)goes, the cruise control doesn't turn on, the oil pressure gauge goes. The Speedo works fine. All lights and the rear window seem fine. I have a Chilton's, but I'd like to narrow it down- how do I isolate the problem? One by one as you stated?
[redacted]

Oh, and yes it happens quickly- as soon as I turn on the car, and either put it in reverse, or put down the back window, or turn on the fan. It's instant.

Does the Chilton's give wiring diagrams for the fuse? It's been a long time since I seen a Chilton's manual.

I do not have my Toyota software on me, later on I'll have it. I'll check for service bulletins too.

For now you can download a manual-

http://pdftown.com/1[redacted] -Toyota-4Runner-Service-Manual.html

This may have the same information I'll have later.

What you do is look at everything that is on that fuse, then it is a process of elimination. Sometimes it quick to find, others a nightmare.

1989 Toyota 4 Runner Engine   

Took my truck in to a Test Only Smog shop & it failed! Report says it's a Gross Polluter, due to timing & EGR Valve. Any suggestions on what I can do to troubleshoot this without putting alot of money into it, but also get it to pass? I have set the timing & still have loss of power (truck lags). It also is getting horrible gas mileage. Has 200K miles on it. HELP?!?! I'm a girl!!

Hi, I'll try to help! Are you going to do the work? I'll try to guide you. If some one else is doing the work, I'll try to advise you.

What engine do you have? I'll bet the EGR valve port in the engine is plugged up with soot like material called 'coking'.

Have you located the EGR valve? Can you remove it and see a restricted opening on the engine all black and looks like coal? Break that junk loose and open the area up to it's designed port dimension. Vacuum it out, use a rag, try not to let the debris get deeper in the port. I use a shop vac when I'm breaking loose the coking so I get it out of there. Clean the old gasket material off the valve and where it mounts.

200K is enough miles you may want to replace the EGR valve, but, you may not have to. If you remount the old one, use a new gasket.

Your turn,

Roger

Where did you go, young lady? Let me hear from you, I'll need to know which engine your 4Runner has to continue.

Roger

Hello there??, May I hear from you please?

Thanks,

Roger

Are you there?

Roger

Hello, has this matter been resolved?

Roger

Sure do need to hear from you, please update the status here.

Roger

Please update!

Thanks,

Roger

What is the status here, please?

Roger

May I hear from you, please? Thanks!

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Toyota 4 Runner Engine Chugging When coasting Always

I have an 89 v6 3.0 4runner that has a new engine. Runs great but have noticed a small loss of power and it chuggs in gear when coasting sometimes. It did it with the old engine also. The exhasust from the cat back is in pretty bad shape. Has downey headers with the new crossover exhaust. Could it be a back pressure problem?

It is a very safe statement that a 15 year old Cat could be the source of your problems. One way to verify this it to loosen the flange connection in front of the cat and drive the truck see what it does or remove one o2 sensor and go for a drive.. yes it will have a check eng lite and be loud but but u can see if the chug goes away. Or if you want just replace the 15 year old cat. There are many that are high flow that will help with performance. AL

1988 Toyota 4 Runner Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

originally had a problem driving, where truck (v6 - EFI) would sputter and bog-down while accelerating and it also idled very low. sounded electrical so i replaced spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and distributor rotor. started up fine but after a mile of driving truck would not accelerate at all and bogged-down entirely to the point of stalling. now truck won't start at all, it's turning over but it doesn't sound like it's firing properly. i've tried a few different things like putting back on the old distributor cap but nothing seems to be working. my situation has gone from bad to worse and all i've done is put new/better parts in. i think it might also have something to do with fuel injection or catalytic converter but i'm at a loss now. any ideas?

Lets start by re-installing only the new parts. We have to assume they are good. ALso lets get a fuel filter and replace that .. do not change anything else and let me know what happens. AL

too cold to work on truck right now, will try to find a garage to work in and get back to you. thanks.

Sorry to hear.. even here in Florida it is very cool.. Let me know. AL

"Sorry to hear.. even here in Florida it is very cool.. Let me know. AL"

i've got a friend of a friend to work on my 4runner now, and he's saying the same thing you were saying. so hopefully that'll work out. he's got a lot more repair experience then i do, so i'm sure it'll be fine. thanks for your help though. take care.

1987 Toyota 4 Runner Fuel System   

22r-e efi. ran out of gas, filled tank and now won't start.

Remove the transmission.

Stamp or chalk matchmarks on the clutch cover and flywheel, indicating their relationship.

Loosen the clutch cover-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time. The pressure on the clutch disc must be released GRADUALLY.

Remove the clutch cover-to-flywheel bolts. Remove the clutch cover and the clutch disc.

If the clutch release bearing is to be replaced, do so at this time as follows:

Remove the bearing retaining clip(s) and remove the bearing and hub.

Remove the release fork and the boot.

The bearing is press fitted to the hub. In some cases, the bearing is available with the hub from automotive suppliers. If this is not the case with your model, contact a machine shop and have the bearing replaced using a hydraulic press. Using other means to replace the bearing could result in personal injury.

Clean all parts and lightly grease the input shaft splines and all of the contact points.

Install the bearing/hub assembly, fork, boot, and retaining clip(s) in their original locations.

Inspect the flywheel surface for cracks, heat scoring (blue marks), and warpage. If oil is present on the flywheel surface, this indicates that either the engine rear oil seal or the transmission front oil seal is leaking. If necessary, refer to the appropriate section for seal replacement. If in doubt concerning the condition of the flywheel, consult an automotive machine shop.

To install:

Before installing any new parts, make sure that they are clean. During installation, do not get grease or oil on any of the components, as this will shorten clutch life considerably.

Position the clutch disc against the flywheel. On Pick-Ups, the short side of the splined section faces the flywheel. On Land Cruisers, the long side of the splined section faces the flywheel.

Install the clutch cover over the disc and install the bolts loosely. Align the matchmarks made during Step 2. If a new or rebuilt clutch cover assembly is installed, use the matchmark on the old cover assembly as a reference.

Align the clutch disc with the flywheel using a clutch aligning tool, which is available in most auto stores at a reasonable price.

With the clutch aligning tool installed, tighten the clutch cover bolts gradually in a star pattern, as is done with lug nuts. Finally tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).

Install the transmission.

This should help

I am sorry I posted info to anothewr quesrion I was answering.
What you need to do is to put a little gas in the carburater and replace the air cleaner attenpt to start car .
it should start and cut out but repeat the process and soon it will have primed your carburater so that it continues to run
I hope this helps

1986 Toyota 4 Runner Windows / Glass Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

WHEN IT DOES NOT WANT TO CRANK, IT CLICKS. WE REPLACED THE CONTACTS IN THE SOLENOID. STILL DOES THE SAME. I READ WHERE FROM SOME REASON THERE ISN'T ENOUGH VOLTAGE FOR THE SOLENOID TO WORK. THE SUGGESTION WAS TO ADD AN INLINE STARTER RELAY. DO HAVE ANY DETAILS?
ALSO, THE EFI WIRING IS SPLICED SO MUCH, IT IS A WONDER FLAMES DO NOT SHOOT OUT. SOME THINGS WORK, SOME DO NOT. I HAVE A HARD TIME WITH WIRING DIAGRAMS, CAN'T TELL WHERE TO START AND WHAT COLOR WIRE FROM THE ECM GOES TO WHAT. WE WOULD LIKE TO GET THE WIRING BACK TO NORMAL, WITHOUT SPENDING BIG BUCKS. ANY PEARLS OF WISDOM WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS, JULS

The starter should function without any additonal 'add-ons'.

Any idea which wires to the 'efi' are spliced? Are they simply the injector wires, or fuel pump wiring, sensor wiring, or all of the above?

What works and what doesn't?

A new wiring harness is ruled out, because they are rather difficult to install and cost big bucks.

THERE ARE 4 WIRES FROM INJECTORS (2 WHITE, 2 WHITE&RED), THEY ARE SPLICED TO A BLACK WIRE THAT IS SPLICED TO 2 WIRES, A WHITE AND A WHITE&RED WIRE.
THIS ENGINE RAN LIKE NEW IN THE 94 P/U, MY SON HIT A TREE, I HAD THE TRUCK TOWED HOME UNTIL I FOUND THIS 86 4 RUNNER TO PUT IT IN. WE USED THE 86 INTAKE BECAUSE OF THE CONNECTORS. WE REPLACED ALL GASKETS, FLUIDS, WE USED THE 94 STARTER(SPLICED THE CONNECTOR}, WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS. THE TIMING IS CORRECT. WHEN IT DOESN'T WANT TO CRANK, IT WILL COOPERATE WITH JUMP STARTING OR PUSHING OFF.
HOPE I HAVE GIVEN YOU ENOUGH INFO, THANK YOU SO MUCH, JULS

The starter circuit is rather simple. To get to the base of it, measure the voltage at the starter between the starter case and the hot wire at the starter. It should remain over 10V when the problem is occurring.

If not, track down the bad groound, cable, terminal, or battery.

If it is good, check the voltage between the small wire and the starter case. It should remain over 10V when the problem is occurring.

If not, a relay could be added, but the ideal thing to do would be to find the source of the voltage loss...ignition switch, neutral safety switch....
Dale

thanks, we will check the voltage, we have determined one place where it could be lost. Still working on straightening out the wiring. It is difficult to go behind "fat asses". Will let you know tomorrow. Thanks, BADHILL FIX IT (inside joke---one of my passwords since kids started driving and we don't make insurance claims if it can be avoided. he is 20 and she is 18. The good news is they have not done any major damage in a year now. My experience, Girls are not any better drivers than boys. INSURANCE COMPANIES ARE ON A TRIP. HAVE A GOOD EVENING. JULS

If the voltages are OK, then the fault must be in the starter.
Dale

1986 Toyota 4 Runner All Part Groups   

Hello.
I have a vacuum hose that seems to have nowhere to go. I've been looking for a vacuum hose diagram with no luck. The hose comes from near the throttle body and has a small black cylinder that appears to me to possibly be a filter. The truck has a rough idle, the oil light flashes sometimes at idle, and the engine revs and lets down at idle after running at speeds over 50 miles per hour or just revs to a high idle after running at speeds of less than 50 miles pper hour

While I am waiting for you to reply, hopfuly with the anwser I need, I would like to say that this is a wonderful website, and I would have paid more if I had more. I paid all I could and appriciate you very much! Thank you!

the little black cylinder is a one way check valve.I usually determine the wayward hose and or wire , by determining the length, is the distance it has to go. The factory will not put a 24" hose in a location that needa 10". What you are looking for is a location, near the end of the hose.What you should be looking for is another hose disconnected probably lying by the frame.Hooking it up should fix the running problems.The oil light probably coming on because of rough idle.Hose routing diagrams are hard to find, without shop manual. The Haynes ones are easy to navigate and have lots of diagrams that others do not have.And at $15, they pay for themselves first time used.
Yes, its a good site!

Thank you soo much for your advice! I will pick up the Haynes book immediately. I have a Chiltons and it has no information on vacuum hoses. When I realized it was dissconected the first thing I did was look for a place for it plug into. I was not able to find anyplace, even with a great amount of searching. I am concerned that the original owner, who rebuil the engine bypassed that hose by mistake or on purpose. I believe there may be a Y concection that is missing or something to that effect.

With rebuilt engines, anything goes. Sometimes the engine is from a different year 4 Runner or even a car engine gets modified and put in! At least the Haynes manual is a specific book for your truck, not a general book that covers many models!

1986 Toyota 4 Runner Ignition System   

major electrical fault.no power anywere

Hi,

Check wires at the starter.Possible fusible link wires blown.
Regards,
Peter

1986 Toyota 4 Runner Windows / Glass   

I just bought my truck about a month and a half ago. The previous owner said tha the rear window needed a switch. I went to a toyota scrap yard/repair centre and the mechanic checked the switch and said that was not my problem. He was able to rule that out and roll down the window a little ways and then it did not want to go all of the way back up. He said that I should investigate the rest of the wiring but I dont know where to start. I know that I need to check the motor to see where it is bunching up but other than that I have no clue how to check to see if the harness is working properly, ect. could you please tell me where i should start. thanks for your time.

Hello, Please clarify which window has the problem...on a back door or on the tailgate?

Roger

on the tailgate
Charlene

Ok, does the window even try to move BOTH up and down....even just a little? If so then wiring is probably not the problem.

What is your email address, please? I'll send you a look at inside the tailgate and how to take it apart.

I'm thinking the power motor is worn out or the mechanical mechanizm could be in a bind.

Roger

my email address is [redacted] and it bearly moves up and down.

I will send the file I have. If you do not see the email just check your junk/spam filters and see if it was routed there.

Roger

Strange, I found no wiring diagram for the tailgate power window on the 1986 4Runner. I also looked at 1987 and 1988 models.

I'll keep looking and send one your way if I can.

Roger

thanks for looking

I sent the diagram to you. I hope it is what you need.

Roger