Toyota Celica

1995 Toyota Celica All Part Groups   

Battery went dead on 1995 celica. Tried jumping it with a Hyundai. I did not realize that the postive terminal on the Hyundai battery is black not red. I hooked up cables. Tried to start celica. No luck. then I saw my mistake with the cables. Jumped the battery but ca r would not start. Checked a couple of fuses and they were blown. I replaced them. Car started. BUT I can not get it out of park. The transmission is locked. What could be the problem? Is there a fuse I might have blown for the transmission?? Am I able to have the car towed even though I can not get it out of park? Thanks, Ralph

Check to see if your brake lights are working. If the lights are out check the fuse for it. It sounds like the brake/shift interlock is not be energized.

OK. I will check it out. I know my power windows, door locks, and radio are not working. But my head lights and door open buzzer works. I have to jump the car again. As soon as I shut it off it won't start again. The battery is only 6 months old. The car is at my daughters school. It will take me a couple of days to check it out. We are expecting snow the next couple of days. I'll be in touch. Thanks, Ralph

Yeah, we are expecting blizzard like conditons.

Were both terminals black on the Hyundai? I didn't realize positive was black. I had assumed red was mandatory, not sure now.

There is only a "cover" over one terminal and it is solid black. It is on the positive terminal. I did not have my glasses on so I could not see the +/- on the battery. I just went out and picked up some fuses. I also picked up something called a fusible link. It says it is the fuse for the ABS brakes. It is installed in the fuse box under the hood. I also purchsed the fuse for the brake lights. That one is
replaced inside the car.

1986 Toyota Celica Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

A/C will work sometimes and blow good cold air. times it will blow unchilled air and the light on the button will just blink. It usually doesn't work when just starting to drive, but if you turn it off and let it rest awhile it might start working. No definite pattern but will work only about 40% of the time.

YOu will need to have the pressure checked with gauges, this determine if you are running low on refrigerant.

YOu could also have a pressure switch dropping or a problem with the compressor clutch (check the wiring for any problems to the compressor).

next time it does this raise the hood and see if there is ice forming anywhere around the lines if so more than likely you have a bad expansion valve if not turn on your ac and look at the top of your dryer bottle there should be a see thru glass about the size of a small pencil eraser if you see fluid ciculating clearly the ac is charged if it kind of looks like snow it is low on freon if these suggestions do not work check your relay as it may be defective.

I will check the relay. I forgot about that. As far as the ice goes, it doesn't work when the car is started for the first time that day. Wouldn't this eliminate ice as a possibility? Also the a/c was charge and checked for pressure by a shop with no improvement. It is possible but I am not sure yet that when the compressor does kick on, that it does not cyle on and off. It just stays on until it stops working.

ice will form on the lines if there is a blockage no matter what time of day the only way to really know what is going on is to get a reading off the gauges both high and low pressure

Hello, All-Parts.com, Site Administrator asked me to try and help. I do not see who has been helping you...

When the system is blowing unchilled air and the a/c light just blinks, it normally means low freon. The system gets this idea from the pressure switch. If a false indication is present the system can be full of freon but the compressor and the related cooling fan function is blocked out electrically.

You stated that a shop evacuated and recharged your a/c with no change in performance. Has the system been converted to R-134a refrigerant or does it still use R-12?

Have you seen the pressure readings on a set of test gauges when the system is working properly? What are the readings please?

When the system blows unchilled air and the compressor will not engage can you thump the relay and get the compressor to work? Can you jumper the relay socket terminals and get the compressor to run? Can you jumper the pressure switch and get the compressor to run?

I'm trying to guide you to diagnose a bad relay or a bad pressure switch.

Speaking about ice, if the compressor runs and never cycles at 2250 RPM (Hiway driving) ice can form on the evaporator core. This causes the air flow through the core to become blocked. Has this been happening? IF the blower fan speed is on HI and the engine is at idle RPM the compressor may not cycle and that is normal depending upon ambient air temp.

Did this help?,

Roger

Thank you for the easy to understand steps and clarification of the process. I will try these suggestions. I will be out of town for a week and it may be when I get back before I can try it.

Have a safe trip. I'll be here.

Roger

1986 Toyota Celica Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes 

2se engine, manual. After sitting idle for several months in garage car would not start. After filled tank it ran fine. We stupidly ran low again. Car began stalling, die if pushed accelerator quickly, and could not take a load. Filled up tank and problem returned. After car sat awhile it started and ran fine. Car began having probs at 1/4 tank. Filled tank. Full tank did not solve the problem this time. I emptied the tank (has plug in it) and flushed gas through it. Had much oily flakes of debris and dirty color for first flushings. After cleared up flushed with clean gas--small amt debris. Car sat with empty tank in 100+ temperatures for day. I put 5 gal. in today. It will not start. Not getting any fuel. Have been reading posts re air in fuel line. I am going to hook up jumper to get pump to run w/o ECU & afm. Please advise. The fuel problems only recent after 3 years. (bought w/ 78k in 2003 now 121k).

You guys live in a beautiful city (if it is Victoria, BC) My father was U.S. Immigration Inspector there 1979-87. We loved visiting there--like going to England.

You are on the right track, checking to see if the fuel pump is working. Please conduct your testing safely. It is very possible the pump is bad or you have a restriction from the debris. Could you hear the pump run (which would indicate it was receiving voltage and at least trying to pump fuel)?

You didn't mention changing the fuel filter??

I am from NY, but it appears the site owner is from Victoria, BC. I'll have to add it to my 'Must Visit Someday' list. How is England?

Thank you for prompt reply. This is my first use of your services. I am a DIY with limited experience but am ignorant enough to try anything. When all else fails ask someone who knows.

I installed a new fuel filter in June. I have not taken the pump out and changed the sock filter. Because tank has drain plug it is easy to take fuel out it is likely easy to take tank off. It is in good shape covered with undercoating. There was no rust in the gas used to flush it.

1985 Toyota Celica Ignition System Stalling When driving When warm 

Runs fine for up to an hour, then, usually at highway speed, accelerating, it sputters. If you remove your foot from the gas quickly enough, it will idle but sputter when you give it even a little gas, die if you pop it into gear even at speed. Coast to a stop, wait for 10-15 minutes, either running or stopped. Then you can go again for about 5 minutes only if you keep the RPM below 2500, then it repeats the pattern endlessly it seems. Acceleration certainly seems the trigger..ignition? fuel issue? Checked plugs/wires/dist.cap/loose wires/hoses, loosed gascap/fuelfilter, etc..

PS this drivetrain from a 1985 Celica 22r is now in a 1967 Triumph Spitfire and running VERY nicely except for this one plaguing issue. Thanks.

The ignition coils fail frequently on these engines and cause this symptom. Put in a new TOYOTA coil and you should be running that Spitfire better than it ever ran before.

Put a new coil in.Ran a bit better maybe. Ran smooth, drove thru neighborhoods low speed,after a while it developed a slight "frog in the throat" perhaps but ran well. Once the engine was warmed up, went to 50mph, stoplight, got up to 30mph acelerating, same thing happened, engine bogged suddenly and died. Pretty much the same sequence followed, the engine sounding more like misfiring after a while, even at idle, and limped on home. Only other comment sometimes the engine smells like gas (no leaks) when running up thru the gears accelerating, the carb is about 4 feet away, top down..just commenting that it smelled like that early on in the run. Thinkin about putting on some plug wires. Not that these are old, the car is fresh and crisp. Send me an addy I mail a few pics. Anyway, new coil, no real change.

Are we getting enough fuel? A weak fuel pump, or plugged screen in the tank could allow you to run a bit and then run poorly.

Check the spark output, to make sure it is strong at the time of poor running. I believe there is an ignitor that could be weakening the spark.

When it is running poorly, you could add some fuel and see if it runs better. A faulty airflow meter could also give these kinds of troubles. Find out first if adding fuel helps.

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