Toyota Celica GT

1998 Toyota Celica GT Engine Tuning When idling Always

How do I increase the idle? It is at 600 rpm with A/C engaged and runs rough. It has been in shop and everything is working OK. I think the idle needs to be at 800+. Thanks Mike

You say the car has been in a shop and they determined the operating system is O.K. By this I take it they did a diagnostic scan to rule out any sensors related to the idle(TPS,MAF,fuel injectors, vaccum leaks, ECM etc)to be the problem. If this is the case, I don't see why they didn't adjust the throttle linkage to try and compensate for the problem unless by doing so, further problems would or could occur. The A/C, when engaged puts a serious draw on the engine requiring more fuel to compensate the draw to keep it at an even idle.If there is a sensor not picking this up or a vaccum leak, thus the rough running.Check with your repair shop to see if a systems scan was indeed done or seek out another that has coputerized diagnostics. You may even check with one of your local parts houses, some offer this service free or at a nominal charge.
Good Luck,
Paul

1994 Toyota Celica GT Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When accelerating Always

Celica has replaced clutch, clutch bearings, friction plate. When installing, exact guide was unavailable, so an a similar guide was used. However, some difficultly inserting the "spline" or "spleen." Car makes a popping sound when when clutch is released at second or third gear followed by acceleration. Alternatively, the same popping sound occurs when decelerating (revving and letting up on the gas pedal while the car is in gear). Braking does not cause the popping sound. Looking for a recommendation to prevent the popping sound and abnormal wear and tear.

Hello, Alignment of the clutch disc and pressure plate to the flywheel is critical or the transmission input shaft splines will bind when re-installing the tranny. I believe it will have to be done over again with the correct alignment tool. I'm really surprised that the correct alignment tool did not come with the new clutch assembly.

There is also a bushing in the center of the flywheel that the tip of the transmission input shaft slides in to for stability. Was that bushing inspected for condition or replaced?

Do you have recourse with a repair shop? Will the parts supplier provide or loan you the correct alignment tool? Will they warranty the clutch and give you a replacement? (You might go by there and let them hear the popping sound to strenthen your position for such a request)

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Did you receive my last message?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System   

My car won't start. It cranks over but I am not getting any spark from the distributer. I pulled the distributor out and checked everything according to the generic Toyota manaulI have. I replaced the condesor on the coil because it looked patially melted. After replacing the condensor I put everything back together & the car started up and ran for like 1 minute then just died again. Now it won't start again and I don't have any spark agian. I checked the primary and secondary resistance of the coil (Coil & Cap are only 20,000 miles old) and they both checked out fine according to the manual. I checked the magnetic pick up coil and everything seem to check out. I have 12 volts at the coil. The only thing I can think of is that the ignitor is bad. But I don't know how to check it. Do you have any suggestions.

One option would be to call your local chain auto parts store and see if they have equipment to test the igniter. Even if they do, it may be misleading because there is a chance the ignitor will be good during the test (but bad after a minute or so).

I looked at the diagnostic procedure and it simply said to try another ignitor after you have tested everything else. It seems you have narrowed it down to the computer or ignitor. The ignitors have a much higher failure rate.

Thanks for the help. The only problem is that a new ignitor cost $440. I don't won't to spend that if it isn't the ignitor. Any other info would be appreciated.

Wow, I didn't realize they were quite that high.

I just looked on the internet and aftermarket is available for about $200.

I think I would try to find a used on at a salvage yard. Get one with a guarantee or that is cheap enough it won't matter for test purposes.

I will check check again to see if I can find anything more on the ignitor.

Thanks. I am going to try a junk yard tomorrow. Do you know of any websites that might sell it for $200. I haven't found any.

http://rockauto.com (often the least expensive)

I just checked ebay, and they have seem to have the best prices so far. Copy and Paste the link-

http://search.ebay.com/toyota-ignitor_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8


There is also partsamerica.com and autozone.com- I didn't check these.

From the all-parts.com home page you can also query venders of new and used parts. I don't have any involvement with that part of the site, I'm not sure how their prices are.

1994 Toyota Celica GT Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I hear a grinding while turning and now while driving the sound will stop when I turn slightly to the right.I thought it was the rotors but they look good. It feels like it is something with the steering.PLease help.thank you

It Sounds like a wheel bearing.
Do you hear a thump occur every other revolution of the tire?
Is it Worse on hard turns?

If it is just a grinding noise thae it would be a rear axle seal that has leaked out fluid.
you wil;l need to have it inspected to see if damage has been done to the gears at this point.
I hope this helps

1993 Toyota Celica GT Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When turning No pattern

Hi i have a toyota celica gtr import its one of the 4 wheel steer ones, the car is great except for when i turn right it makes the most horrible knocking and graunching noise more so if i accelerate around the bend. i have checked the wheel bearing and it seems fine, does anyone have any ideas, thanks any help is appreciated. Rory

Hello, The sound you describe would have me looking at the constant velocity (CV) joints for a broken grease boot. Centrifical force will throw the grease out of a spinning CV joint.

There is a CV joint at each end of each axle. The black flexible rubber boot must be intact or the joint starves for lubrication and will wear to the point of failure. When it does fail it will come apart and the vehicle will no longer move.

The best repair is to replace the effected axle (sometimes called a half shaft) with a rebuilt one. That addresses the lack of lubrication and wear from the miles the car has been driven and ensures the best warranty.

Can you isolate the noise to front or rear of the car? The CV boot is immediately behind the wheel just where the axle goes into the hub and wheel bearing assembly.

Any help?,

Roger

The noise is from the front left wheel however it is difficult to isolate the noise, would this cause the noise to sound like it is coming from just a little away from the wheel, is it a difficult job changing a cv joint. Thanks rory

Rory, Sure the sound can travel and cause confusion but a torn CV boot is what to look for. In this case, just behind the left front wheel.

Changing a half shaft is not a really tough job but is labor intensive. One must seperate the suspension lower control arm at the ball joint and the steering tie-rod end from the spindle. With the axle nut removed and pulling the strut assembly out of the way the axle can be slipped out of the front hub and bearing. The other end of the same axle will need to be disconnected from the transmission (I just "pop" it out using a pry bar) and the half shaft assembly can be removed from the vehicle.

If you don't have the tools or the desire to take on this job there should be several places in your area that will do the job. A half shaft where I am costs about $100 US and labor is 1.5 hours at the shop's customer pay flat rate per hour.

What do you think?...

Roger

That sounds good, i will have to inspect the vehicle and make sure it is the cv joint, is that what you are talking about when you say half shaft (cv joint) im in the uk though so i would have to get the work done here. thanks rory, also would the cv joint make a grinding noise as well as the knocking. thanks again

The half shaft assembly is the entire axle with the joints all ready attached to the axle shaft. It is ready to install.

The knocking sound is more common to a CV joint issue than a grinding sound. I'm confident in telling you that if the noise/noises are present on right turns and made worse by accelerating the car's speed, the left front CV Joint is suspect because the vehicle's weight is shifted to the left (inertia force) on right turns. If you do not find a torn CV boot the CV Joint will still require replacement due to wear.

Roger

OK i will check it tonight my friend has a jack, then i will get back to you and hopefully you are right i can close this question, thanks very much rory

All the best to you. Thanks for the chance to help.

Roger

Hi roger, i checked the car out tonight, and although we think the CV Joint is worn the drive shaft also has some movement in it. IS that normal i dont know. Thanks very much rory

Did you find the rubber boot on the outboard CV Joint torn or split on the left front axle? The movement of the axle shaft is most likely masked wear of the CVJ itself. The CVJ is splined and the axle runs through it. Not much of a chance the axle splines are worn but rather the CVJ components.

I'd replace the half shaft assembly based on the terrible noise that you described it makes.

Roger

OMG! Is your car rear wheel drive and have a driveshaft from the back of the transmission to the rear differential? You said "Driveshaft" and I freaked!

Roger

Sorry i fear i may have confused the situation, it is front wheel drive, and the half shaft coming from the transmission to the front left wheel appears to have movement in it, is this meant to happen, as i thought the half shaft was meant to be pretty solid. thanks rory

OK we are back to my previous message:

Did you find the rubber boot on the outboard CV Joint torn or split on the left front axle? The movement of the axle shaft is most likely masked wear of the CVJ itself. The CVJ is splined and the axle runs through it. Not much of a chance the axle splines are worn but rather the CVJ components.

I'd replace the half shaft assembly based on the terrible noise that you described it makes.

Roger

Hello again Roger, just a few more questions and then i will release you from this question lol. Im a student so im going to have to do it myself. Firstly is do i have to remove the oil from the gearbox to do the half shaft, how do i remove the half shaft from the transmission, is the inner cv joint attached to the half shaft or can it be removed so that i can then only replace the inner and outer joints and save some money, is there anything else i should know. Thanks so much rory.

No, you do not have to drain the transmission but you will lose some fluid when the half shaft comes out so have a drain pan ready. Once you have the outer CVJ and axle spline free from the wheel hub and bearing use a pry bar between the trans case and the inner CVJ housing and pop it loose/out. It's just a snap ring on the axle shaft at the transmission end of the axle that you will be disengaging. A quick movement of the prybar usually does the trick but I've had some I had to knock loose with a hammer (don't break the inner CVJ case).

The inner CVJ is attached to the axle shaft and the replacement half shaft should come with one on it. Don't cut corners now, get a rebuilt half shaft assembly and fix it, don't patch it.

I'll email instructions for your review if you'll provide me your address. You'll need to look through the info to decide if you will do this yourself. Do you have the tools?

Is your Celica 2WD or All-WD? Automatic or standard transmission?

Roger

My car is 2WD but 4WS, transmission manual. My email address is [redacted] , My friend has nearly every tool you could ever need so i should be ok on that front. Can you buy recondition halfshafts then? Thanks again Rory

Yes, Factory rebuilt halfshafts are available here in the US. They cost around $100-$125 US (exchange). Have you shopped for one in your area? Be sure to match your old one with the rebuilt for length and physical appearance.

I'll get the email to you right away. I see the instructions say to drain the trans.. but I never do unless it needs a fluid change. Plan it your way.

Roger

Thank you Roger you have been an amazing help to me and very nice about it, hioe that we speak again some time. Thanks ROry

1993 Toyota Celica GT Engine   

I have a 1993 Celica. In the morning it revs about 400RPMs lowwer (55 mph at 1500 RPMs) than in the evening (55 mph at 1900 rpms). By the way I live in south Florida where it is very humid. Any suggestions as to what I should do. Some have suggested to check the seal around the distributor cap. Can't see anything wrong. It was replaced last Nopvember. The loe rpms just started. Also am I damaging my car running low rpms. Engine sounds ok.

Hello,

My previous reply did not post, sorry for the delay.

Does the check engine light come on at any time while the engine is running?

Does the engine ever misfire? If not you can pretty much rule out distributor moisture concerns.

How long do you have to drive the vehicle before the it changes rpm's?

Listen carefully to see if the transmission is in a different gear OR the torque converter is not locking up (when the rpm's are higher).

When the rpms are low, will they raise if you lightly tap the brake?

The engine seems to run fine with the rpms low. After driving about 15 or so minutes Friday morning, I stopped, waited about ten minutes and started up again. There was no difference. The rpms restore when I leave work about 5 pm after sitting eight or so hours. My biggest question along with what is wrong is am I doing damage to the engine by driving it with the lower rpms?

The engine seems to run fine with the rpms low. After driving about 15 or so minutes Friday morning, I stopped, waited about ten minutes and started up again. There was no difference. The rpms restore when I leave work about 5 pm after sitting eight or so hours. My biggest question along with what is wrong is am I doing damage to the engine by driving it with the lower rpms? By the way the engine light doesn't light up and tapping the brakes doesn't have any affect.

If the engine is not misfiring (which you can hear/feel) or running hot there should be no damage.

Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for ten minutes. Step on the brake pedal. Reconnect the cable and test drive. This will reset the computer. Is there any change now? If yes, does it last?

1993 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System   

When hot the engine will not start--just crank--it will not start with carb cleaner either--the spark is weak and erratic--please advise

If a tune up has not been done in awhile , it will not hurt. Might be the ignition Ignitor, the coil, weak plug wires,old spark plugs, crank position sensor etc. If problem persists after tune, most auto parts places can scan the car (usually free) and that will help narrow down a possible ignitor or sensor problem.
The carb cleaner tells us it is either a computer, ignition or sensor issue.Thereare temp related sensors for example Coolant Temp Sensor that advises CPU of engine temp and makes adjustments accordingly.
A scan is important, otherwise you may be randomly changing sensors.

plugs and wires have been replaced--I do not have a scanner however. On the obd 1 gm products you could short a&b on the dlc to flash codes, is this possible with the toyota?

No,I know about the Gm's and the ford connector under the hood, but some Toyota's I have worked on had the CPU under the RH side of dash (actually had to pull carpet back) Those had a flashing LED light that was the code. (Count the flashes). If not you might have to borrow a scan tool

Thank you, I'll see what I can find.

1992 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

will start for a couple weeks then won't start for a couple days put in new fuel pump and new coil

Hi,
You will need to determine where the problem lies. Does it have spark when the engine fails to start? Did you put a new Toyota coil? There have been a lot of problems with them. If there is spark, does it start with some starting fluid? If so, you have a fuel problem.
Hope this helps.
Dale

1991 Toyota Celica GT Engine Vibration Happens always Always

Engine Vibration starting at about 1800 rpm when driving, and when parked with clutch disengaged (pushed in) or with clutch engaged and transmission in neutral. Suspected out of balance pressure plate assembly. Removed with engine flywheel and had balance checked by rebuilder, everything is in balance. Have replaced engine mounts, no change in vibration. Vehicle has 160,000 miles. Clutch and pressure plate assembly are nearly new, replaced by previous owner I assume. Could there be a problem with the harmonic balance pulley assembly? Nothing appears out of whack with the Harmonic balance pulley. HELP!

These vibrations can be very difficult to track down. First, review the symptoms: Vibration at about 1[redacted] ? RPM, hot, cold, neutral, driving or clutch in. If this is a weight balance problem, all the above will be true. Also should be the same in reverse gear, accelerating lightly, or decelerating, most noticable at the same RPM range under all conditions.

Also, the vibration should lessen or disappear at 3000? RPM and increase again starting at 3600.

Assuming this to be so, you already did the most obvious. Engine balance is focused on the rotating mass. This is primarily the crankshaft, pistons, rods, flywheel and pressure plate. Minor influences are the harmonic balancer and the cam shaft. Having already done the simple check, you are left to either checking the minor influences or tearing down the engine.

Thanks! Your conclusions match our view of the problem, and describe the vibration closely. I think the next step will be to reassemble the engine and see if the balancing of the clutch and flywheel assembly fixed the problem. If not then we will pull the pan to look for a piece off a piston, or something else broken. The engine runs very good and does not have any loud noises which would indicate a broken piston or other obvious problem. I don't understand what goes wrong with a harmonic balancer. Should a problem be obvious when looking at the balancer? Do we need to pull it off the engine to see a problem? We also have considered pulling the timing belt cover and inspecting the gear/pulleys to see if something is broken in this area, however I would think any thing broken there would tear up enough stuff to be obvious from the outside of the cover.

The harmonic balancer is designed to dampen the twisting vibration of each individual piston firing. It should not cause a vibration that you can feel unless it is obviously broken, twisted, bent. It is designed to reduce the pulsing in the pulley that would tend to make (for example) an alternator belt chirp at idle with each cylinder firing.

Items most distant from the center line of the crankshaft need the best balancing. That would be: flywheel, pressure plate, pistons, rods and the crank itself. The crank timing sprocket is only about 1-2 inches from the center line and would probably not be felt if half of it were missing. Yet on the pressure plate bolts, I would want each to be the same weight.

Have a successful new year!

1991 Toyota Celica GT Interior Components Leaking Happens sometimes No pattern

I didn't recieve enough info as to your problem.Try again and we'll see if I can help.
Thanks,
Paul

I wondered if there is a known cause of leaking water into the n/s footwell of a 1992 Celica. I have had the windscreen professionally checked and am told that it is ok. But the leak remains - a small amount of clear tasteless water trickles down the engine bulkhead and under the carpet. Is there any equipment here which might be the source of the leak, for example?
Thanks

Gordon

If you are speaking of the passinger side underneath the dash at the glove box,there it a good possibility that condinsation is not properly being drained.On the firewall under the hood in this general area, there should be a drain spout.A blast of compressed air into it should solve the problem if this is the case.
Good luck,
Paul

Dear Paul - Thanks for identifying the problem - it is now fixed.

Sorry for the delay in replying - I've just had a train trip across the USA visiting the sites - amazing country.

Thanks again

Gordon

Sorry for my delay in answering. Your wecome.
Good Luck,
Paul

1991 Toyota Celica GT All Part Groups Making Noise When braking No pattern

there is a knocking type noise coming from the undercarraige area at the front end, the level of noise ranges from barely audible to loud. this happens when applying the brakes. the noise seems to come from a wheel area and a secondary noise/ vibration through the brake pedal itself..this is a uk spec celica.

Check the brake rotors to see if they are the problem. They may be warped or damaged and the runout will cause the brake pedal to pulsate when applied.

Thanks. by brake rotors i assume you mean the brake discs? yes i have checked these already and are fine.
The noise is actually a sound rather than vibration?

Here we call it a disk brake system, but generally refer to the disks as rotors, good point.

At this point you'll have to check other things, a broken spring, engine/trans mount, axle shaft, wheel bearing, ball joints.

A couple other things are loose/damaged caliper bolts/slides. One thing that is sometimes overlooked is a damaged brake pad or rust/debri where the disc mates to the hub.

Hi thanks for that. I have had a thorough check of all the mentioned things and nothing is out of place. All those things you mentioned are fine. So im lost on what the nosie is.. have you any other ideas? thanks

The only thing left after all suspension parts are eliminated is drivetrain noise.

1991 Toyota Celica GT Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always No pattern

Headlights only work on bright. A change of Lamps does not fix problem. Light switch bad or perhaps relay switch bad?

Most likely the dimmer switch in the steering column

If the relay switch were bad, both high and low beams would be inoperative? Dimmer switch is better as the price difference is significant.

The lights work off the same relay.Some foriegn vehicles have fused outlets for Lft&Rt lamps but very seldom for high and low.My guess is still aiming at the dimmer switch.
Good Luck,
Paul

1991 Toyota Celica GT Drive Train / Driveline   

Hello,
Jap Import Celica 1991 st183, with 4ws.

My four wheel steer light comes on in the dash after driving the car for a few seconds. The rear wheels doi turn with the front but i think they turn in the same direction as the front regardless if i have the 2ws rev button switched on and regardless of what speed i am doing. (at high sdpeed rear wheels should turn in same direction and front and then at low spped the rear wheels should turn in opposite direction to front wheels). I did take the 4ws motor off the backof the car and run it on a bench, applying power in one direction and then the other. The motor seemd to work fine and turned according to the dirtection of curtrnet applied.

I think it migfht be the sensor that tell the 4ws motor in which direction and how fast the wheels are going. I do you know where it is? WHat it looks like? How canit be fixed? Any usual problems with these sensors???.

you answer willbe most appreciated and great thanks

Domenico

Take the vehicle to a respectable dealership and see if they can scan the AWD modules system to see if there may be an errant code.To make one thing clear,wheither it be a front wheel,rear wheel or all wheel drive vehicle,the rear wheels will "always" determine the direction of the vehicle.I'm not sure what kinds or problems you are having but if a scan detects a code your problem may be solved.

My car is two wheel drive (front wheel) the rear wheel STEER. When the car is going more that 40km.h the rear wheels STEER in the same direction as the front and while below 40km/h the rer wheels steer in the opposite direction. This is NOT a All Wheel Drive Car it is a 4 Wheel STEER car.
1991 - toyota celica St183.

My brother has the same car, and after several months of diagnosing and trying to repair, he ended up replacing the computer, which he found quite difficult to find in the used part (auto wrecker)system. Good luck!

The best way to diagnose this problem would be to first scan the computer for any stored codes
there should be at least a trouble code concerning the steering problem you are experiencing
In this way it would save you a lot of time and money and guess work especially money
you can have the car scanned at an auto parts store free of charge and the problem fix will be determined by the codes recieved
I hope this helps

1991 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System   

i cant get car to start consisitently with one turn of key. car will eventually start with several key turns later. I have replaced starter,battery and starter relay. Battery connections and gronda all clean and tight. plz plz plz HELP

What happens when the car does not start? Do the dash lights come on as they normally do? Any clicks from the starter/solenoid?

Automatic or manual transmission?

manual trans and all dash lights are on and i get 1 click per key turn. once running all dash lights are out. no codes

Double check the connections at the battery, and ground and positive cables from the battery terminals to starter & engine block. Corrosion can "bleed" down the cables and not be visible because of the coating on the wires/terminals.

ok will do. these cables are part of wire harness so i will have to manufacture a new cable?

That would be fine, simple and new is fine. This is the most likely cause, could be somewhere else but you need good cables anyway... so start here.

1990 Toyota Celica GT Fuel System Vibration When idling Always

My 1990 Celica Gt has just started rough idling and rough acceleration from idle. Fuel economy has dropped drasticly. Seems to run better up around 3,000 rpm range. I have 169,000 miles. I have checked all plugs and wires along with distributor and they have good spark air cleaner is fine. Must be fuel delivery but what? Thanks ahead of time

What engine do you have, please? Have you had the fuel injectors flushed? Do you see spark arching under the hood when the engine is running at night with the hood open?

Are the spark plugs new? Its easy to crack one when you install it...

Fuel pressure Okay?

Please advise,

Roger

The spark plugs are not new. I took each one out and connected wire back up to plug to check spark seems good on each cylinder. I have not had injectors flushed. No halo or arcing at night either my first check was that. I don't have a fuel pressure guage to check fuel rail with. I even checked coil wire too. All wires are new. The motor size is 2.2litre 4 cylinder. please advise thank you.

Thank you, I'll try to get some info for you.

Have you considered a compression test? I would do that before I flushed injectors to see how strong the engine seals compression. The lowest cylinder reading can be no less than 15% less than the highest cylinder's reading.

Back tomorrow,

Roger

Your assistance is greatly appreciated. This problem seemed to occur it was running fine in the morning. But started acting like that on the way home. Its seems to be less noticable at higher express way speeds. Could it be getting to much fuel since fuel econmy is noticeable down.
Thanks,

Art

Are you getting heavy exhaust fumes/smoke at lower speeds? That would be reason to belive the fuel mix is too rich. A fuel pressure regulator would be suspect in that event.

Performance improves at a higher speed for reasons you suggest. (more efficient fuel burn due to greater engine load) Also, a "miss" caused by a compression leak past a valve or lazy fuel injector spray is simply "masked" due to the frequency of higher revolutions. There is not enough time lapsed to "feel" the event repeat.

Still thinking,

Roger

Gosh i will check exhaust for black smoke or heavy fumes. Good point had not thought of that thanks.

Art

I'm falling behind here. What's next?

Roger

Hello, I'm hoping you'll update me on the status of your question.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Please let me hear from you.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Please let me hear from you.

Thanks,

Roger"

Hello, please update the status of your question.

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System Won't Start When stopped 

HI, I HAVE A 1990 TOYOTA CELICA GT THE IGNITION AND STEERING WHEEL ARE BOTH LOCKED UP AND I CAN'T START CAR. TRIED TURNING WHEEL AND KEY AT SAME TIME, IT DOES NOTHING. IT IS A 5 SPEED. HELP?

Hello, What (if anything) are the front tires touching?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

Ready to close this question? It's been a long time now.

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Toyota Celica GT Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  Always

The only lights working are the head lights, brake lights and turn signals. All otheres are out. The fuse box under hood does not have all fuses. Where is the other fuse box to check those fuses?

Hello, Look in both front side kick panels for fuse boxes. There is a kick panel below each end of the dash on the front floorboard.

What did you find?

Roger

Hello, Still need help? Roger

1990 Toyota Celica GT Fuel System Malfunction When accelerating Always

At an idle where I'm maintaining a speed (Cruise Control or just foot on the pedel) there is surging. Sometimes when I'm accelerating I can feel a loss of power and sometimes there is stumbling. I've replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotor, dis cap, air filter, thermostat, and used those injector/fuel system cleaner and the problem is getting worse.

The first thing you to do is have the fuel pressure checked with a gauge when the problem is occurring. Another possibility is an exhaust system restriction, IE- plugging catalytic converter, in which case the condition will get worse if you press on the accelerator or climb a hill.

If the check engine light comes on while the engine is running there is a likely a problem with a sensor. You'll need to access fault codes.

Use the following link for a free online repair manual-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

I don't know how I'd check the fuel pressure B/C this problem only happens when I'm driving down the road.

The part you mentioned about the catalytic converter could be the problem. The idle problem occures the most when there is a demand on the enigne, but... when the pedal is to the floor I'm not having any problem with the idle.

My check engine light hasn't come on while I'm having this probem with the idle.

It is a bit confusing, normally 'idle' is considered when you are not moving and are not pressing on the accelerator. Your problem is always occurring "at highway speeds"- correct? If yes, does the problem actually improve when you press on the gas pedal when the problem is present?

Yes but the problem exist when the car is in drive. The problem only exist in 2 certain postions on the gas pedal, so if I give it more gas the problem goes away.

As for the postions, The 1st postion is when I barely give the car any gas ( at a speed suitable for driving around a grocery store parking lot ), the 2nd postion whould be when you press the pedal at an inch and a half ( about the same postion you would need if you're using cruise control on the freeway), the problem has occured in all gears.

Now, if I bury the pedal or give it a fair amount of gas I don't have this problem.

I just had the fuel system flushed and this didn't help the problem.

Flooring the accelerator requires extra air to be pushed out the exhaust. Because the car runs fine under these circumstances that eliminates the catalytic converter as the cause. This also requires more fuel, so pressure and injector flow is likely alright also.

Engine diagostics would be required to confirm, but I'd suspect a sensor problem. Mostly the TPS or MAF (or MAP depending), if vacuum leaks have been ruled out. You can use the following link for a repair guide that'll cover sensors, although testing is tough because the problem is only intermittent and testing need to be performed when the problem is present (this is where a capable scanner is needed to analyze sensor data).

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1990 Toyota Celica GT All Part Groups   

I have a 1990 Celica GT 5 speed and one day I was dribing on the expressway and I was in 5th gear, I tried to accelerate to go faster but then my gas pedal was not making it go faster. I pushed the gas 3 or 4 times and nothing happened. I pulled over on the side of the road and turned my car off, when I tried to turn it back on it turned over but would not start. The starter is fine. And these are the things that I have checked and cannot find a solution. : Fuel Pump- working properly : Electricall to Fuel Pump: Working Properly : Fuel Pressure and Fuel Rail: Perfect Pressure : Spark Plugs : Good Spark. What do you think it might be? What is the soulution to my problem. NEED HELP ASAP

One thing comes to mind.
Possible catalytic convertor plugged.
Test by removing it.

1989 Toyota Celica GT Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

I have a 1989 Toyota Celica GT. I just got the car and it ran fine. 2 days ago, when I tried starting it, it turned over for about a half second, and then nothing. I have no power anywhere. I tried a different batter, jumper cables to another car, but still no juice anywhere. Does anyone have any idea where I could even start looking? The cables from the battery to the car appear to be okay. Should I be checking fusible links, or something else?

You said you lost everything, this certainly would include the headlights. The fusible links are a good idea. If the fusible link is the problem what caused it to blow?

First check the grounds. One lead of the voltmeter on battery positive and the other on the engine block/body. Do you have power? Next place one end of lead on alternator/starter positive post and the other on the negative terminal. What is missing?

I've included a link to a free online repair manual that may help you discover the problem.


http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Thank you for your reply. I've been out of town, so I haven't been able to check on this until today. After I tried starting the car (it had power to everything until I turn the key, then there was a loud click and then no power to anything). I checked the battery, 12.53 volts. I tested between the positive terminal on the starter and the negative terminal of the battery and only get 1.83 volts. Any idea what I should look at next? I'm totally stumped.

Is this the 'live' terminal on the starter, that should equal battery voltage less resistance in the wire? If yes it sounds like the wire has to much resistance. Be sure to doublecheck that have a good connections when using your meter.

Sorry, I should have said alternator in my reply, but yes it was to the "live" wire, and I made sure that I had good connections with the multimeter. Any idea what's happening?

Try following the cable from the battery a foot or two and probe it with your meter. What do you get for voltage at this point?

1989 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System   

my celica will not start. if you bypass the selinoid straight form the starter i and spin it then it will start. but how long it will keep starting is unsure. i have replaced the starter twice. both times it has bench tested fine. i have also replaced the ignition switch. i have tested the neutral safety switch i seems ot be working.

i also tested the black wire on the starter. when the key is turned to the start position the test light goes out.

Hi, If the wire to energize the starter solenoid does not have power when the key is turned to start check to see if the ignition switch has an adjustment and is not turning the full travel.

Look for a bad/loose connection.

Roger

would the lak of travel cause the switch to work only part of the time. which connection would you suggest to start the one under the column or under the hood

Lack of travel is not relevent. I'm thinking to look in the steering column area where the ignition switch is.

Do you have/need a wiring diagram?

Roger

if you have one that is specific to this car. it would very helpful. am i looking for a connection that is in a coupler or possibly at a switch in the line under all the toyo factory protection.

I'll need your email address please?

Roger

There are diagrams except 3S-GTE engine and one with 3S-GTE engine. Which do you have?

Roger

i have a 3sfe 2.0 engine. my emal i is [redacted]

Email is on the way.

Roger

i got your emaillast pm. i checked the connection under the dash, power is getting thru on both sides of it. you can hear a click under the dash at the computer and the cold start injector(?) come on. still on spin at starter. is the next connection under the hood ?

i rechecked the black wire at the starter for power. the test light showed power thru the connection. made a small jumper wire with new connectors verified power thru it. hooked with to starter test light showed power but still no spin.

The small black wire at the starter has power when the key is turned to start but the starter will not engage?

Do you have an auto or manual trans?

Do you have good grounds from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the body and from the engine to the body?

Are the battery connections clean and tight?

Will the car start in neutral?

Roger

the car is an auto and will not start in either park ot neutral.have cleaned the battery terminals and replaced the cables not long ago. will have to recheck the grounds. checked the one at the block cable shows good but bolt does not light when tested. the other 2 shown in diagram willl check again. PROBLEM-TALKED TO PARTS STORE. SUGGESTED GO STRAIGHT FROM BLACK WIRE CONNECTION ON STARTER TO HOT CONNECTION STARTER SPUN NOW STARTS LIKE SUPPOSED TO **@!###

If it now works like it is supposed to it wll pass all tests.

Roger

what now--wait til it stops and start over.

Yes. So long as it starts you wouldn't need help and we'd be chasing our tail.

Roger

ok thanks for your help and input. will clean and check the grounds still to be sure. can i request your assistance the next time.

Leave this question open for a few days and see what happens if you like.

If you want to close the question please click on OK to finish up.

You may request my help when you post a question but once you click OK to finish up there will be a fee to post your next query when the time comes.

I thank you,

Roger

How are you doing on this one? It's been a few days...

Roger

the car is still hit and miss on starting. rigged up a momentary switch to spin starter so switch will work when fails.

When you turn the key to start, and the starter does nothing, will bumping the shift lever toward PARK help?

Roger

i have pushed on the shifter and put in neutral. neither helps. there does seem to be some side to side play in shifter. but car acts up both when driven from place to place or overnight in the drive.

Pushing on the shift lever toward Park would not have the effect I was curious about if the shifter were bumped to shock the neutral safety switch. No big deal...just a thought.

Sideplay in the shifter would not likely factor here. If when the key is turned to start the wire to the starter solenoid to energize it does not have battery voltage the ignition electrical switch or it's connectors are suspect.

Roger

i have in the past had the neutral safety switch bypassed and still the problem persists. the wire to energize the starter is where i have spliced in the momentary switch. one bump of the switch and the starter it will start.

Did you splice battery voltage to this wire so the switch you installed sends voltage when needed? That is the very job of the ignition switch when held in the start position.

Does that not say to you that the ignition switch has the problem?

Roger

yes have one end of wire to the battery other end to the black wire with a switch in the middle. i have put in new igniton switch and tested it to make sure is sending signal to starter. also verified that signal getting to the balck wire at the starter just not operating the starter. still need to check all 3 grounds when problem arises and i am where can test them.

What condition are the end terminals on this black wire from the new ignition switch to the starter in? Are there broken strands of wire? Are the terminals soldered?

Roger

the wire that was sliced was a brand new out of the box wire. we used butt connectors and slip on male conectors at the switch. the other existing conectors and wires appear to the in good condition. the frequency of having to used the second switch seems to be increasing . could be my imagination since b4 installed it would just leave parked and drive other car.

My concern is for the car's original wire and it's connectors, not the repair wire you have installed.

I hope the condition will present itself again and allow you the chance to troubleshoot the cause.

Roger

i have checked the original wirng as well as cleaned the connections. they all seemed to be in good working condition. i aslo checked the current thru them previously when the problem occurred. they had current all the way to the starter. the starter just would not energize and spin.

Will the negative ground cable reach the starter mount bolts? You asked about this once.

If possible, bolt the negative cable end with one of the starter mount bolts.

Roger

Did you see my last message?

Roger

yes. do not know what happened to response. i assume that you are talking about the ground from the battery to the block. it looks to be plenty long enough to one of the bolts. will this simply eliminate this ground as the problem.

Yes, at least that is my hope. Will the bolt go through the terminal on the cable?

Roger

i believe it will. will check and verify and advise

Crossing my fingers....

Roger

will have to park car tomorrow. engine way to hot to attempt this pm. if this solves problem will be able to tell when drive on thursday. problem seems to be almost a daily occurence now since do not leave parked when will not start.

When you can... please let me know what happens.

Roger

moved the ground wire directly to the starter. the car started, but will have to drive and see if wil continue to do so.

I like it! I'm interested.

Roger

have driven for day now with no problem. will continue to monitor. should try to clean out bolt hole and replace ground or simply LEAVE IT ALONE?

Just leave it. The ground connection is ensured by the torque of the bolt so long as the cable terminal ,the bolthead, and what little surface of the starter case the battery cable terminal is in contact with are clean. No real need to polish shiney.

Roger

guess the moving of the cable did not end problem; reappeared yesterday. next move- try the connection from the battrey to the body???

drove this am about an hour; no problems after used switch yesterday. made 2 stops no problem. got ready to move in drive no start. checked and cleaned all wires, bolts, connection points. everything olhmed out good. even moved the one from the block to the body. still no start with out using the temp switch. even after started still showed good connections.

So it would not start after two sucessful trips and then after setting awhile it would not start? As in set for long enough that thermal heaqt would build up under the hood?

That sounds like a starter solenoid problem. Sometimes when this happenes you can thump the starter with a hammer when someone else holds the key in the start position. If it starts after the thumping the solenoid has a heat affected problem.

Roger

drove this am for about 15 minutes. then parked for about 30 to 45 mins-restarted no prob. drove 15 mins bakc home. parked for 4 hours- no start. tried hammer on starter and selinoid still no start.

The trick is to thump the starter at the same time the key is being held in the start position. If you did it this way and it did not work but it will work on it's own after it cools down I'd still want to fault the starter. You have stated that when turning the key to start that voltage always is present on the black wire to the solenoid.

Roger

the only way it will work is with the extra switch. the will work on own for???. yes there is power to the black wire when ignition switch is turned to start. secondary problem--- this is the third starter and all of them have evidenced the same problem. can not take this one back. but when remove and ahve tested on bench will spin every time until gets so hot can hardly touch.

It makes it hard for me to make a recommendation as you have replaced the ignition electrical switch, verified that the black wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid has power when the switch is in the start position and have relocated the ground to the starter case bolt.

That is the whole circuit. I still believe there is something wrong with that original black wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Somewhere between where you have spliced in your aux switch and the ignition switch. There is resistance somewhere in that circuit.

I can't see what you can. I believe you have tried all I have suggested. There is something not yet seen or not yet understood or we would be finished by now.

I would likely run a new wire between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid by now.

When you moved the ground from the block to the body did you use a ground washer between the terminal and the body? The ground washer I'm referring to is the one with all those barbs around it's outer circumferrence that dig into the metal for a good connection.

Roger

no. there was not one there when removed and cleaned. think have one in tool box. are you talking about new wire from switch coupling under dash to starter. seems like alot of tracing to get done. think may just live the secondary switch.

You said you "even moved the one from the block to the body". It is this wire that I'm referring to for the ground washer with barbs.

I was saying I would run a new wire to replace the original one from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid after all else has failed to fix this.

If you are comfortable using the switch you installed for times the factory circuit does not work we are finished here.

If you agree please click on OK to finish up. Thanks!

Roger

1988 Toyota Celica GT Fuel System Failing  

fuel pump failed. part removed from feul tank has part no #20250. the fuel pump available from parts stores is different from pump removed from vehicle. how can i locate correct pump... or is pump different now...

different manufacturers make their pumps a bit different from each other. You could look at what other parts houses have, or contact your local Toyota Dealer and find out if your fuel pump has been superceded with a newer design or part #. If I can be of further assistance you can contact me directly at [redacted] upon accepting this response. Good Luck

Walt Boyer
A.S.E. Master Tech

i checked fuel pump, fuel filter... gas getting to filter, but is not getting to fuel injector... cannot get gas to engine....
please suggest what to do to get this corrected.

engine turns, but will not start

has gas, water and oil

next step would be to check for an injector pulse which is controlled by your ECM.

1988 Toyota Celica GT Fuel System   

with air cleaner hose disconnected it will idle but dies with any acceleration (air cleaner connected--no start)> Jumper fp and b on diagnostic plug it starts and runs and accelerates (fast stomp to the floor it bogs--normal push it's fine)only with the air cleaner disconnected (never dies)----connect air cleaner it dies.You can(manually) move the air vane by the air meter and it will die. Air meter has been replaced with a known operable one,fuel pressure is fine. One last thing----this is a replacement engine (used)exact year and size,etc.(did not replace computer, wasn't available) Computer is showing code 24,32 and 51. Driving me crazy........please help

Hi, Do you have the definition of the codes?

Code 24 Throttle Position Sensor

Code 32 On 1988-89 Calif models, EGR Diagnosis

Code 51 Oxygen feedback system stuck on lean.

Roger

new tps,not a california model, played with it some more this morning and exactly the same thing,starts and runs for about 30-60 seconds then shuts off.It has to be something in the fuel pump circuit it seems.Any more thoughts?

Test the TPS for voltage sweep gaps.

Verify the oxygen sensor works.

The computer operates on "Open Loop" values until the engine warms up. During open loop the computer uses a built in set of values and the sensors are not monitored to determine fuel mix.

When the computer switches to "Closed Loop" the sensors are poled for feedback and fuel is constantly adjusted for performance and economy.

Your car may need an oxygen sensor if it is not switching constantly from lean to rich. If the computer doesn't know what to do with the feedback from the sensors it too may have a problem and need be replaced.

Roger

Roger,
Hate to be a pain but I replaced the oxygen sensor(new)and took a computer from a 1990 Camry (has the same engine and computer part number) but the same scenario happened. Unless I jumped Fp and B on the diagnostic plug and leave the air cleaner off the air horn it dies after 30 seconds. I even drove it down the road with the jumper ON and everything works fine! If you are tired of this I will understand and you can have the money for your time........But I am on a mission now!!!!!!!!!I won't let this little car beat me. If I can put a 500cid caddy engine in a 1993 4wd blazer then cut the top off the blazer at mid door and graft a top half of a 1938 Ford panel truck including suicide doors (I am a sheetmetal man by trade)Then surely I can figure this fuel problem out someday!!!!!Either way thanks for your help to this point! Rock

Is this a 3S-fe or a 3S-GE engine?

Do you have a wiring diagram for the engine controls?

The check connector Fp refers to Fuel Pump and the B refers to Battery +.

What is interesting is the circuits involved with the air flow meter in relation to the circuit opening relay, the main EFI relay and the fuel pump.

Do you want/need wiring diagrams? I'll need your email address or a fax number.

Roger

1988 Toyota Celica GT Fuel System   

Difficult time starting when cold.....I must crank it 4-6 times before is sputters and fires..... Fires up immediately even when luke warm.... Cold start valve? Also, when turning the key, seems like no power is getting to the starter, after repeated turns of the key, the starter turns and it starts This happens randomly (cold or warm).... Ignition switch?

Possibly the ignition switch on the slow cranking, but we can't rule out the park/neutral switch or the solenoid itself-- Will need to perform voltage checks. Do you have a multimeter to perform diagnostic tests?

yes.....

I can try to send you test procedures if you leave your email address.

[redacted] ....

what about the cold start valve....?

Unplug the electrical connector to the cold start valve. Check resistance with an ohm meter (looking for 2-4). Open or shorted is a sure sign of failure.

Study the wiring diagram I sent to you in an attachment via email. Start testing at ignition switch to see if the on signal is consistantly passing through for the starter relay and cold start injector.

The diagram I sent was for a 2.0L engine with manual transmission.

The starter was bench tested and found to be bad. It was replaced. However that was not the only problem. The same symptom (after turning the ignition to "start" I heard a click, the volt meter loaded up (showed a discharge) but the starter would not engage. Had to have it towed back to the shop on Saturday. On Sunday I went back over to the shop and it started without a problem. where I completely
cleaned the battery terminals. I took for several test runs, returning to the shop and it restarted every time. However, after turning the ignition key to a point just after hearing the click before engaging the starter and then moving the key to the full start position it failed to engage. The next moring it started flawlessly for the mechanic and did numerous times during the day. Everything is pointing to the ignition switch.

What do you think....?

It could very well be, have you been able to monitor the voltage using the diagram I sent (did you receive?), this will confirm whether the ignition switch is doing its job or not.

My mechanic has been unable to make the problem occur again since I had it on Sunday.... Difficult to diagonose without being able recreate the symptoms....

I may replace the ignition switch.... about 65.00 just to be safe....

1988 Toyota Celica GT Fuel System   

i need info on how to change the fuel pump

Fuel pump is located in the tank.
First disconnect battery, and support
the tank (floor jack and block of wood)
I hope the tank is not full!
Remove the tank hardware, and lower the
tank, disconnect the hoses and wires going
to the tank.Remove the flange and withdraw the pump and guage sender fom the tank. The pump is about the size and shape of a D Cell battery, clamped in place and has a electrical plug that is unplugged.
Assemble in reverse.
Might get a shop to do it. I believe the current shop time is only about 1 1/2 hrs
x whatever their hourly rate is, if you do not wish to attempt.

What happened? You released the question indicating you do not accept the answer given as having met your needs. Is this correct?

Please advise,

Roger

Have you fixed this one? Please update.

Roger

1987 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System   

I have owned this celica (1987) for quite some time. I have always had a problem with the car not wanting to start. In the morning when the car is cold it will start right up. After I have driven the car turn it off and then go to restart it a short time later it will not want to start. Sometimes it does this and sometimes it does not. It almost always will not want to start after driving when it is very hot outside. When turning the key over sometimes you can hear one click. This has been going on for years...but now is more frequent. I have been told that it could be the starter. Most recently I have been told that it is not the starter, rather it is the relay switch. They explained that if it were the starter then the starter would have completely died a long time ago. They explained that the relay switch is heating up and in turn when this happes then there is no signal going to the starter. I don't want to just let someone start repairing and the $$$ quickly adding up. Can you shed some light on this problem? Thank you.

It truley sounds like you have a bad starter.
The solenoid is goig bad and shorting out the connection to the starter
change it out and you will be fine.
These are common symtoms for a bad starter solenoid.
Hope this helps

Thank you for the info about the starter... Another question about the same vehicle. The fan that comes on to cool the engine...Is it supposed to stay on if it is running when I go to shut the car off? Thanks again.

Yes it will run until the engine is cooled down if the engine is still excessively hot and cut off automatically.
The fan is controlled by the temperature and switched likewise so that is normal

The fan on my car never stays on after I have turned off the engine...do you think I should have it checked out?. I am going to jump back to the question about the starter... I failed to mention that the car will start eventually. Sometimes it takes 5 minutes, sometimes it takes 25 minutes. With this information, Do you still say it is the starter/solenoid?

after you have checked all of your battery starter connections and the main grounding to the engine , if you still experience this problem then the starter is the culprit.
If you have not had an overheating problem with the car , I will say it is fine as long as the fans are comming on when the engine thermostat calls for it , although it never hurts to get a free check-up for your car.

1986 Toyota Celica GT Fuel System Failing When starting No pattern

Fuel pump shuts off when ignition key is in normal position after starting. Shorted across Fp&B+ to have pump running in order to keep car running. Exessive fuel consumption. Black exhaust smoke. Is this a relay problem to fuel pump. If so which one?

hi
from what you discribed it sounds like you have a bad fuel injector. "good luck les"

One fuel injector will cause the pump not to operate. With the short across the Diag. terminals everything seems to be working, exept fuel consumption.

Hello, Do you have a FAX number to receive some info from the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base?

Roger

Fixed the problem myself. If the mechanics need to know for the next time they get a question regarding the fuel system, try the mass air fuel sensor before the fuel injectors.

Did the info I sent you help? I can't tell if I helped you or not!

Did you mean to call the part a mass air flow sensor? You stated "mass air fuel sensor".

I was counting on you to fix it yourself, I wanted to get you some info to get you there.

Did I earn your business? If you are willing to accept my help please click on "OK To Pay The Mechanic." If you do not think so then email All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, All-Parts.com and request a refund.

Thank you,

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1986 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

I have a '86 Toyota GT with 45K original miles. It has never broken down until...Today. I was on my way home and was going about 35MPH when the engine just died I looked down at my tach and it was if I turned the engine off. It's an automatic. It was a hot day and the air was on. After getting towed home
I started to check things out. I took off the distributor cap and when I cranked the engine the rotor wasn't turning. It sounds as if there's no spark. I got my meter out and checked the fuses, relays, links, etc., no problem. I have the 2S-E engine and the car has been maticulously maintained. I hate to think the timing chain. Do you have any idea what the problem is? And If so, how to correct it. Thank you for your attention in this matter. Tim

I am not positive the ignition system is to blame. My Celica has EFI and electronic ignition. But, this model has the coil 'built' into the distributor. There are
only four plug wires. There is a bridge from
the coil to the rotor. The inside of the cap has two brushes. I have also replaced the wires cap rotor plugs etc., about nine months ago (2k miles).

I am not positive the ignition system is to blame. My Celica has EFI and electronic ignition. But, this model has the coil 'built' into the distributor. There are
only four plug wires. There is a bridge from
the coil to the rotor. The inside of the cap has two brushes. I have also replaced the wires, cap, rotor, plugs etc., about nine months ago (2k miles).

I am not positive the ignition system is to blame. My Celica has EFI and electronic ignition. But, this model has the coil 'built' into the distributor. There are
only four plug wires. There is a bridge from
the coil to the rotor. The inside of the cap has two brushes. I have also replaced the wires, cap, rotor, plugs etc., about nine months ago (2k miles). How can I test the coil? Thanks, Tim

Tim,
If the rotor is not turning, then there is a mechanical disconnect between the crankshaft and the distributor. Hopefully it is the timing belt. That could be cheaper to repair than a broken camshaft, crankshaft or stripped timing sprocket keyways. Another unlikely possibility is a broken distributor. 98% chance it is the timing belt. Remove the upper timing cover to confirm. On that 4 cylinder engine, most likely there is no valve damage. Best wishes as you tend to your lovely car.
Dale

1986 Toyota Celica GT Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I was driving and started to hear some pinging noise as I accelerated then as I was driving down a steep hill the car died and would not start again. The oil was full and the gas tank was full. Could it be electrical or the engine?

does it spin over now

No it does not.

can u turn the engine manually if so probably electrical if not engine

1986 Toyota Celica GT Engine   

my wife ran car without oil major melt dowm.
put used motor in did all the regular stuff
before install water pump timing belt seals
cap rotor wires filters vac hoses etc.
the motor has about 135 on #1 and #2
120 on #3 and 125 on #4 Leaked it down
had 10 % on 1,2,4, and 30% on 3 sounded like
a intake valve. The motor runs tearable and will
not run in gear at all I dont notice any vacum leaks
fuel pressure is good 50 lbs new pump not to long ago
checked timing marks ok timing is at 10' the catalytic
conv is new when it is running the exhaust from the back of the conv back is glowing red which leads me to a lean or timing issue no codes in comp.Any ideas?
ready to crush it about now!

The major melt down and the re occuring high exhaust temp probably caused the

O2 sensor to fail. Test and or replace. If the new cat was put in before the major melt down, I would look at it. If the cat was installed with the motor, it should be ok.
Since the 02 controlls the air/fuel mixture, I would consider replacing it.

thanks I'll give it a try I had considered changing
it but there was no trouble code in the computer.

1986 was considered 'early' type injection systems and trouble codes were not considered to be consistant.
The O2 sensor can be tested with a digital volt meter. .5 volts is the median, with rapid spikes to (about) .3 and .8 volts.when car running. Slow or no voltage or way out of range usually means bad sensor. This test cannot be done accuratly with an analog meter, by the way.

1985 Toyota Celica GT Ignition System   

Does the Celica have a alternator noise suppressor in line from the alternator to the battery, as well as a capacitor to ground? I purchased one to install on my GT and found what I think is a factory installed unit. Do these go bad and can I replace it with an EOM unit? I am getting a bit of Alternator whine and ignition noise. Thanks, Leif

The factory noise suppressor (capacitor)seldom goes bad.You can replace with an aftermarket one, but why bother, it is probably ok.
The stereo shops also offer noise suppression capacitors for the power wire on a stereo.They often look like a black box about 1 1/4 inches square.
It would not hurt to run both.

The device I am looking at in the car consists of a rectangular plastic box about 2 x 3 inches and has what appears to be a cylindrical capacitor along side of it. Can't tell where it hooks up but one end of the box is hooked to the alternator lead that comes to the battery and the cylindrical item looks like it might go to a ground from one end of the squarebox/battery + lead. Is this what you are talking about??? I installed a powerline noise suppressor on the + lead going to the radio/stero some time back. And it still seems like there is some noise getting through.

Yes the capacitor is the round cylinder, with one wire. The other is the gnd. They are cheap. The plastic box is probably the voltage regulator.Still the origional Alternator? A stereo with a higher amp draw might be putting a big draw on alternator.
The noise might be the alternator, or the plug wires. Do they look good or they very old?

The small box is not mounted to the car body, so don't believe it is the voltage regulator. It seems to be inline with the positive lead from the alternator to the battery. I don't knowabout the altenator's provenance. I haven't replaced it, so don't know if it was orginal to the car. Plug wires are all in good shape.

Two simple tests that you can do to the Alternator are:
On the rear of alternator is a bearing about 1 1/4" diameter. With engine running, there should be a strong magnetic pull if you hold the shaft of a screwdriver against it.
With belt loose, see if there is any up and down movement in the bearing.Should have 0 play.
Also if you have access to an accurate volt meter,the charging voltage should be between 13-14 volts.Turn on all the acessories, headlights, heater fan, rear defog etc.The voltage should not drop more than 1 volt.
The small box might be an additional noise filter.