Toyota Celica GTS Sport

2000 Toyota Celica GTS Sport All Part Groups Malfunction When shifting Always

I have a 6 speed manual stock transmission. The gears grind when I try to shift it in reverse. The only way I can put it in reverse is by shifting the transmission to reverse BEFORE I turn the car on. It also grinds gears when I attempt to shift it to second but its random, sometimes I have to skip first and second and move straight to third. Sometimes I can start off on second and even there I have to force it into gear but it doesn't grind, again it does it randomly. On third gear it doesn't grind and it shifts into gear but I still have to force it, not as hard as second gear. On fourth gear it also doesn't grind and it does shift but its still a little difficult to shift. Fifth and sixth gears are pretty normal, although on a couple of ocassions it has slipped off from fifth into neutral on its own. I believe it may be my clutch going bad bud I want to make sure before I begin to replace parts unecessarily.

Sounds like your clutch. When your clutch is fully depressed, you should be able to move it to any gear freely. If it grinds in reverse, either the clutch hydraulics are failing to fully disengage, the clutch disc is warped and rubbing when disengaged, the pilot bearing/bushing is dragging or the pressure plate is not fully releasing.

Check the hydraulics by feeling how near the top of the pedal travel you feel resistance. It should be 1-2 inches. If lower than that, then there is a problem in the hydraulics. If OK, hold clutch down for a minute, release slowly and feel where the resistance stops. It should be the same place. If it is lower, then the hydraulics are leaking and need repair.

All other problems are inside the bellhousing and will need the transmission removed.

Best wishes!

Thank you for the speedy reply. I checked the hydraulics and it is good, resistance remains above two inches when I press on the clutch. When I release the clutch, the resistance stops above two inches. So the problem is either the clutch, the pressure plate, or the pilot bearing? If that is the case, I should be able to find a kit that has all of those components, correct? Also, are there torque specifications for this sort of job? And if so, what special tools would I need other than a torque wrench?

Buy a clutch kit, it should include all the parts you need as well as an alignment tool. You should remove the flywheel also and have it refaced. It will be a project to replace it, requiring a good set of tools and some determination. Tighten the pressure plate 1/2 turn at a time in a star pattern until it is tightened down. I suggest buying a repair manual from your parts supplier with an overview of the repair instructions and torque specs.

2000 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Engine   

just put a new engine in my gts. ran fine for 3 days then one day i had it idleing for mady 10 minets checking tire pressure and idle slowly droped untill it stalled, now wont run. cranks fine, sounds like only 1 cylinder is firing. it has new plugs, cam sensor and 93 pumpgas. fuel pump does come on. maby a sensor? never heard a idle drop like that and not re start

First I would indeed check if only one plug was actually firing...and then check the fuel filter as it might be plugged. It is always best to isolate fuel problems from ignition problems first....

thanks. it is firing on all 4, pulled the fuel pump and found a cloudy, gritty green layer at bottom of the tank aouut an inch or so thick... what the heck is that? is it at all possible to cross a gasline with a coolant line when i put the new engine in? i see the steel pressure line< where is the return located.

Cloudy gritty green could be coolant?
I would closely examine all lines in the tank for foreign matter...probably plugging filter too...could just be bad gas,,,it happens...thats why there are filters. Clean all of it out, if you have not already done so..and if you want peace of mind you might want to check in a week or so..

1992 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Engine Won't Start Happens always No pattern

My daughter called to tell me that her Celica just quit running while she was driving it. It is a 1992 GTS with 200,000. My brother (who is a shade tree mechanic) said he thinks it is something in the ignition. Engine is turning fine just not running. Timing belt was replaced about 60,000 miles ago. Any ideas as to where to start looking for the problem?

He needs to check for spark to the plugs first off all. If he confirms there is no spark, most of the ignition components can be checked off the car at your local chain auto-parts stores. Call ahead.

IF you need a repair manual there is a free one available online, let me know.

1992 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Drive Train / Driveline   

I am replacing the left front halfshaft on my 92 celica. I am unable to remove the inboard joint tulip from the transaxle. The manual says to "gently pry out" but I am having no luck.

If there are not bolts in it (clearly visible) they usually pry out. It sometimes takes some effort to pop the snap ring. If you have a free hand or a helper, pull near the end of the shaft while prying (this will insure there is no free play that you are working against.

1992 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Engine   

the engine keeps overheating

You don't give me much information, but here is some general help.
If the coolant is leaking, fix that first. If it overheats in 15 minutes, suspect a bad thermostat. If there is no heat inside the car, check low coolant or bad water pump. If it overheats at idle, check radiator fan system. If it overheats on the highway, suspect a bad radiator.

A bad head gasket is always a possibility if everythgin else check out OK.

1992 toyota celica GTR 4WS the fan isn't working also there is a yellow and blue wire are out they are beside the battery and fuses

Try hooking up the fan direct (temporary) and see if that resolves the overheat problem. If so, find and repair the fuse/sensor/relay/wiring problem.

1991 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Chassis / Suspension & Steering  Happens always Always

The power steering pump "whines" and the fluid in the reservoir is "churning". Is the pump bad? or is there something else going on?

Whining could be caused from the pump going out, a too loose or too tight belt,
The churning could be caused from a leak in the power steering pump, hoses and lines.
Your rack and pinion could be wearing out also.
Check for leaks and tension belt properly, then make sure the fluid reservoir is full,
If the pump still whines after that, change it out.

1991 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

as the car accelerates to above 50mph, it starts to make a grinding noise. when the car is rolling (no braking or accelerating), it makes a rolling noise. is there a problem with the rotors or the wheel bearings?

Typical wheel bearing noise is described as a roaring (or howling) noise that changes tone when cornering (this shifts the weight from one side to the other, increasing the noise when weight is shifted to the wheel with a bad bearing.) Is this the case?

You can also jack and safely support the front of the vehicle (back wheels blocked) and spin the wheel to listen for bearing noise. You can also grab the wheel on the top and bottom and see if there is any play in the wheel. If there is this is a sign of bearing wear, it also means you are at or approaching a dangerous amount of wear. No play but bearing noise means the bearing is defective and will wear to a dangerous point very quickly (keep in mind a defective bearing can still fail without play, so don't take any chances.)

On the rotors, if you inspect them you will be able to see imperfections on the rotor surface indicating the rotors need resurfacing or replacement (the common cure these days.) If the rotors are out of round, the brake pedal will pulsate when you brake.

Check these out and let me know what you find.

1990 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Fuel System Won't Start When starting When cold

We live in Maine and the temp was 10 below the first morning my step daughters car wouldn't start..(it's turning over but won't start) we tried a block heater dip stick to warm the engine..didn't work.. put in a new fuel filter, distributor cap, plugs and wires...still won't start. Also checked the timing belt..adjusted the timing and still nothing.
it was running fine until the cold weather hit??? My husband wonders if it's the fuel pump but can't get to it very easily and doesn't want to go through all that work if it's not that? any ideas before we bring it to a shop?

Hello, Am I to believe that there is spark but perhaps no fuel? Was the car just recently refueled and there could be water frozen in the fuel line? Does your car have a carbureator or fuel injection? Have you tried spraying starting fluid into the air intake?

Please advise,

Roger

thanks for the fast response ! Yes, sprayed starting fluid into the air intake, tried dry gas incase of a frozen fuel line, not sure when it was last fueled...it's fuel injected.

Have you verified spark? Can you tell anything about the color of the spark (white or blue, faint or powerful)? And with the starting fluid used it doesn't fire or "promise" like it is trying? How fast does the starter turn the engine over? What viscosity oil is in the crankcase?
Have you resisted the temptation to pump the accelerator while the engine cranks?

Roger

sorry but my husband's not here and i have no idea what color the spark is...i can tell you i just tried to start it and it turns over immediately, no hesitation, and it was sooo close to starting, it actually started for about 5 seconds, alot of 'chugging' though and then stalled. I didn't pump the gas at all.

Excellent! You should not pump the gas as that gives the computer false information.

Try a one second spray of starting fluid into the air intake, hold the gas pedal down 1/3rd and crank it and see what happens. You may have to repeat this step. It will indeed chug and carry-on when it does start but should clear up if you hold the throttle steady.

Any luck?,

Roger

Did you get your car started?

Roger

No Roger, unfortunately we didn't get the car started. We had it towed to the Toyota garage this afternoon. Anyway...thanks for your help and quick responses this morning! I wish I could have spent more time corresponding with you about this. I really did learn a few things...thanks again!

I hope the cure has been found. If you are willing to "accept" the help I offered as an "answer" to this query so that I may be paid, please close the question.

Thank you!

Roger

1990 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the car is automatic first day the shift lock for shifter is not working even u step on the brake pedal, the following day early am the parking lights, tail lights, brake lights not working i check the fuse and relay they r not burnt out, but there is no power thru them. i have another toyota same year n i swap the combination switch on the teering wheel, the whole fuse box on the kick panel driver side n the front fuse by the bat., it works on the other car. thks rick

Is there no power to only some of fuses in the fuse box?

Or is there no power at all to the fuse box?

the only fuse has no power is the tail light, stop light, ecu-b fuse, and also the relay for the tail light has no power.

i replied to the technicians question, and im still waiting for his reply. thanks rick

Rick, I don't know how you did it but you released the question for others to try to answer.

You were conversing with Douglas. Do you wish to stay with Douglas or allow me to answer??

Thanks,

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

My front shocks are banging loudly when I run over sudden slight depressions in the road that is maybe only one-and-a-half to two (2) inches in depth (note that this is NOT even a pothole-sized hole that I am talking about.) I just replaced the front springs, front shocks and top strut mounts to eliminate this problem, but the banging problem has resurfaced after only a couple of months on the road. My mechanic even showed me the damaged front top strut mounts that needed to be replaced bacause the center mounting hole that the strut cartridge fits through was hammered-in on the inside by the cartridge piston due to all that banging. How do I solve this problem?

When the spring was replaced, was the spring seated in its proper position? Also, when the strut was replaced, was the strut rod held while the retaining nut was tightened to proper torque specs? These two areas are very crucial for the strut to preform to its capacities. Too many times I've seen where these items are overlooked and this type of problem arises.

Thank you for your prompt response.

These are the issues:

1) The repair/replacement was done by a trusted mechanic who guarantees his work for one (1) year. I specifically requested OEM or performance-quality equipment to prevent a recurrence of this problem. Again, please note that this problem was already occuring on my old, worn springs and shocks before I had them replaced.

2) I can only assume that the springs were properly seated at installation.

3) With regard to the strut rod being held while the retaining nut is tightened... How can I tell this actually happened? How do you hold the strut rod in place against the torque being exerted?

4) Are there any missing parts from this installation?
ITEMS INSTALLED: spring, strut cartridge, strut housing, top mount.

5) I am actually now thinking about inserting a coil spring booster to add a little height to the front end, in hopes of avoiding this impact-banging. Is this a good idea? (The front end is sitting noticeably lower than the rear, even with the new front springs. The height difference may be only about one to one-and-a-quarter inches, very little, but it is a noticeable difference. I have been looking for old manufacturer photos to see if the front end is SUPPOSED to be lower than the rear, but my research cannot determine an answer.

6) Should I bring it back to my mechanic for warranty repair, using the same shocks and tightening them as you recommend doing? Or should new shocks be used?

7) Lastly, why would the strut rod not being held during torquing contribute to this banging problem?

I know that this is a very long detailed response, but, as I hope you can see, I have spent much money and effort on this issue, and it's still giving me problems.

Your response to each of my numbered issues would be so very much appreciated.

Thank You,
Ray Soto

1)If the mechanic guarantees his work,no harm in having him recheck it.
2)If the springs are seated all the way into there stops on the bottom and top retainers they should be o.k. Also if there was a rubber cap on the ends for noise reduction they need to be checked for wear.
3)The strut rod either has a hex head or a hex head opening to hold the rod while the self locking retaining nut is tightened. One way to check is to turn the lock nut on the rod to tighten it. If the nut and rod turn together, proper torque was probabley never achieved.
4)Missing parts have to be determined by the installer. The instalation of the cartridge in the barrel for proper seating with no movement. The upper plate usually has a bearing and sometimes a spacer. Damage to the bearing or a missing spacer if called for will cause this situation.
5) Installing coil overs may add more grief to your problem as in any time factory specs are altered there are other factors that have to be taken into consideration. Alignment, steering clearances etc. could become a new factor. Always try and find the cassuel cause before anything else especially when it comes to suspension components.
6)If the struts and top mount and bearing are not damaged(bent) by all means have them properly tightened. One way to check for a bent strut without having to put the vehicle on an alignment rack is to loosen the retaining nut slightly and turn the strut rod while wathching the top sidewall of the tire for any movement. If there is any noticeable movement, time for a new strut.
7) The strut rod must be tightened to the full length of its thread. If it is left loose in the slightest bit, you will get the bang factor.

There are other factors that come to mind that can cause noise similar to this but since you mentioned the top plate being showed to you by the mechanic as the cause, my veiw and vision went straight to the strut. Good Luck and keep in touch. Some problems can be a little hard to diagnosis from this side of the screen but I'll do what I can to help.
Paul

Whew...! Thanks for your answers. They were very informative, and I will make sure to review these issues with my mechanic on my very next visit. Take care.

1990 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1990 Toyota Celica GTS... Power windows, sunroof, gauges, and HVAC controls have stopped working all at once. Radio, lights, door locks all still work. ?????? Fuses look good, could this be the integration relay?

Hello,

If I sent you a wiring diagram, could you follow it to troubleshoot the problem?

I have the Haynes Manual, having a hard time determining the "common" denominator..

Does you wiring diagram include the complete circuit?

Have you checked for voltage on both sides of the fuse?

1989 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting 

2nd gear "chirps" whenever I downshift at over 1500RPM or upshift at over 3000RPM. Also, sometimes I can't get into 1st when stopped at a light. My idea is that the 2nd gear problem is a syncro problem and that the 1st gear problem is a clutch problem. Any suggestions? I recently bought the vehicle and was told the clutch had just been replaced.

Hello, I agree on the 2nd gear downshift problem being a syncro probability. You can always punch the throttle before you downshift with the car in neutral and the clutch engaged. This may help.

The clutch has a slave cylinder and a master cylinder. Is the fluid full? Are there any leaks? (be sure to pull back the boot on the slave cylinder to look for a leak) Can you pump the clutch and get into 1st with less effort? (air in system)

Roger

1989 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Engine   

engine will turnover with key but wont start,if i roll start,it starts and runs fine i have checked the cold start injector and its fine it does it cold or hot, has good fuel pres.

Will it start if you hold the accelerator to the floor?

Check to see if you have spark when cranking the engine over with the starter. Do you have spark to the plugs?

no it wont start when i hold the gas pedel to the floor yes it has a good spark when cranking p.s.- i am a mechanic also i build transmissions auto & manuals this is a very weard prob. thanks for all your help

Next check is for injector pulse. Additionally you can see if it'll start with carburetor cleaner.

-Does it take off instantly when you roll start it?

-Will it start if you use a remote starter to jumper the solenoid?

The idea here is to leave the Key in the Run Position. You may have a bad ignition switch or wiring. Never overlook fuses/links/relays, battery terminals/cables/connections/ground, etc.

will not start with remote starter button ,it will instatly start if i roll start ,yes inj. are pulsing when i spin it over.

1989 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Fuel System   

I recently replace valves seals and head gasket because they were never change when i bought it from previous owner with 124,000 miles . Now it not idling smooth and hard to get the correct sidle speed set .I check the vacuum lines and change the fuel filter but that did not help.

Head gasket and valve guide seals are not a regular maintenance items. Did the engine have problems?

You state that vacuum lines are good so I'm believing that there are none loose or leaking. Have you checked the EGR Valve to see if it is stuck partially open?

Roger

when the Egr valve was remove they was some build up present then. I cleaned it and reinstall idle still low. Can the fuel pump be the problem? Or could it be that damn Egr valve?

Also i had a shop replaced the timimg belt less the three years ago but they failed the replace the cam seals and the timing belt teeth were saturated with oil so you probly knows what happens that cause me not to take it back to the shop.
Now i am doing this my self.

The most common cause of a rough idle is a vacuum leak.

Next I look at the EGR Valve to see if it seats properly and seals. Some designs allow getting your fingers to where you can raise up the diaphram to see if the idle gets worse and then improves when the diaphram is released.

Are you confident the valves are adjusted to specs?

Roger

yes i have double check them many times before complete reassemble.

We haven't talked about an electrical issue. Is the engine misfiring at idle but ok at higher rpm?

Has a spark plug cracked?

Roger

New plugs gapped before starting the engine.The idle is rought at 750 and higher revs ok at 1500.when i stop giing gas it drops to 500 and then stubbles up to 650 . It looks as if it not getting enough gas coming in but a new gas filter install. So i am about to dump it if i can get it running correctly.

My question was "Has a spark plug cracked?" Installing a new set of plugs does not rule out a crack in the porcelin of the plug that can happen during installation.

Is this engine fuel injected? Have you flushed the injectors?

Roger

no crack detected.Yes this a fuel injested engine

Have you checked the resistance of the spark plug wires?

The best OHM check is done by removing the distributor cap and wires from the engine. Leave the wires connected to the cap.

Connect one ohmmeter to an electrode within the cap; connect the other lead to the corrosponding spark plug wire end. Replace any wire that shows a resistance of over 25,000 ohms. If the resistance is out of specification, replace the ignition wire and/or distributor cap.

Check the throttle body bore and valve for coking build up that sticks the butterfly valve when closed. If this condition is present the idle speed control will have trouble maintaining correct idle rpm.

Roger

I will do that and see if it is the problem.
Can the idle air valve be also the problem?

I doubt the IAC is the fault of a rough idle. I would expect that it might search to maintain the idle speed....that is it's job.

Roger

1988 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Electrical / Lighting Systems   

i was on the way home from the junkyard when i smelled something burning inside the car... then all my electrical components died... not including the dome light and the inside door lights... my rpm gauge, gas gauge, battery gauge on the panel stopped working but the speedometer still does... my radio, the clock the defroster dosn't work and so does my headlights, turn signals, parking lights stop lights/break lights. my hazard lights still do work, my engine starts but overheats because the fans won't work either... i don't know what the problem is ... i've checked the fuses, the fusible links and the relays... it's like one whole portion of my electrical components just died like a black out... please help... i don't know what to look for ..

The smell might have been burned wires under the hood.Carefully examine ALL the wiring.You had a short, where the insulation rubbed through.
A Fusable Link might look good, but they have a high temp insulation and could be burned out but not show it.An ammeter or at least a test light would be required, to test for voltage at both sides of the link.
Stick your head under the dash, with a flash light and carefully examine all the wiring.If you can, remove the instrument cluster, as the wires are much more visible.
Since so much is not working, it will be a larger wire about 10 guage.
A $15 Haynes Shop Manual will have very detailed wiring diagrams of your car.
Grab one, and a colored pen to trace the wiring. Go back from each of the corcuits that do not work, untill you find a common circuit.
Thats where you will find the problem. Perhaps a wire caught by a sharp piece of sheetmeta, or burned by the exhaust?
Repair the problem, before you repair the fuseable link.
Do not be afraid of wiring diagrams, if you can read a map, you will be ok.
Trace the wiring diagrams, with a cup of coffee in a well lit area, not out in the car.
Let me know.

1988 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Ignition System   

I have a 1988 celica w/ 3SGE motor. It has no spark. IGT signal is good from computer. IGF signal From igniter is not. Does the distributor have an effect on the IGF signal?

How are you testing the signal?

The igniters are pretty common failures. Call your local parts store and see if they can test the igniter if you bring it in (free service at chain parts stores).

I am testing the signal W/ a SNAP-ON vantage. I've been told that there is no test for the igniter by a TOYOTA tech. I will definetly call around though.

1988 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Fuel System   

I've got a 1988 Celica GTS that wont start, it cranks but is not getting any fuel. It will start and run when fuel is put in the intake manifold, but dies when the fuel is consumed. When I cracked the cold fuel injector fuel line, there was fuel under pressure. I pulled the cold fuel injector it had a build up of carbon on it, which I cleaned and reinstalled. Any ideas on whats wrong?

First thing I would test is fuel pressure, then I would check the fuel pressure regulator.Low pressure will not start the engine.

Do you know how much the fuel pressure is?

I dont know what the pressure is. I'll need to get a pressure gauge, the manual says it can be checked on the fuel rail, is that correct?

Should be a minimum of 35 psi. If you have spark AND fuel pressure, then I would be looking at timing belt, to see if it has jumped a tooth or broke the belt.
A simple test of a broken belt is to crank the engine with the dist cap off,and observe the belt. Checking for a jumped belt tooth is a bit more involved, checking for top dead center and timing etc,

I think that the problem is fuel related. The car sat in the summer heat with a low-empty fuel tank, I think that something dried up. Like I said the car runs when fuel is added manually. more after I check the fuel pressure.....

Low/empty fuel tank will result in the fuel losing its octane rating enough to be a problem.Also being generally gummed up with varnish corrosion etc, I believe your car has a drain plug on the tank. 100% fresh fuel would be a good idea as would some high strength fuel system/injector cleaner.
Do not make the mistake of filling the tank, as its a bitch to try to change pump with a full tank. We sell Walbro pumps at work and I find a bigger pump is always a good idea, as excessive fuel is sent back to the tank anyways.

I was finally able to hook up the fuel pressure gauge today. I checked between the cold fuel injector and the intake manifold. with the ign on I jumpered the batt and the FP in the diag box no pressure. then I tried to start the car, still no pressure

CFI ------------ manifold
|
pressure gauge

Try directly wiring the fuel pump out back to see if it comes on.Could be gummed up from old gas.
Also try to squirt a few tablespoons of fuel in the throttle body and try to start. If it momentarily starts the quits...again fuel pump issue.
Fuel pumps are between $100-150 and are not difficult to replace, providing it is not a full tank of gas.

It was definitely the fuel pump. Once it was removed from the tank and test it was dead. Performed the same test on the new one, and it operated. Check fuel pressure after reassembly and pressure was about 50 psi. Car started and all is well thanks for the help.

You are welcome!With an electric fuel pump, it is important not to run out of gas as the pump not only pumps but is cooled by the gas.Run out of gas 3 or 4 times and you might be doing the pump again. Enjoy your Celica again!

1987 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

The rear running lights are not working and the symbol for the rear lights is lit up on my dashboard. I was told to check the fuse box. Where is the fuse box located? Thanks for your help!

For a picture of fuse box locations visit

http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/

Enter make, model, and year. Click 'Repair Info' then select 'Chassis Electrical' and finally click 'Circuit Protection'.
The site also contains wiring diagrams for the lights.

The first CLick should be "Repair Procedures" instead of 'repair info'.

1986 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Engine Leaking When driving Always

My celica has 270,000KMS it seems that after driving it it will leave a few drops of oil on the ground. I can leave it for a few days and theres only a couple drops, never a pool. The back of the engine is very grimy and dirty.

Hello, You did not ask a question, here. Are you wanting to find the source of the leak?

I recommend cleaning the engine first. When looking for oil leaks I always start as high on the engine as possible because oil runs down from the source and can make other areas appear as though the leak is worse than it seems.

If you are not comfortable cleaning the engine (at a car wash or with a pressure washer) have an auto shop or a auto detail shop do this for you.

Should you decide to try it yourself be careful to avoid direct spray on the ignition system or into the air intake.

Once you've cleaned the engine you can watch for evidence of a leak and address it from the top of the engine down.

A valve cover gasket is nearest the top and a frequent source for a leak. Sometimes just tightening the cover bolts will correct the trouble, or you may need a new gasket because the old one is too flat or cracked/broken.

Roger

Hello, May I hear from you concerning the status of this question, please?

Thanks,

Roger

1986 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Fuel System Stalling Happens always When warm 

OK, I will try to make this as short as possible, but need to put in details- bear with me.
As soon as the rainy season started here (Northern California), my car began to run rough. (Even beforehand, if you were doing too many errands, you had to wait for the car to cool before it would start.) I replaced the spark plugs, but it did not help. I then thought maybe I should add some fuel injector cleaner. Within MINUTES of putting it in, it began to stall, and backfire. I would put my foot on the accelerator, and it would begin backfiring, and die. I managed to get it into a parking lot. It would start up fine, and if I put my foot on the accelerator, go about 10 miles per hour, backfire and die. Finally, I had to have it towed. When I took it to a garage, he claims (I can't see it myself)to have replaced the fuel filter, and it continued to do this. He said that putting the fuel injector cleaner in had been "coincidence". He said I needed either a mass airflow sensor or the car computer. I had it hauled home, and bought both of these parts off E-bay. (It made no sense to buy a brand new one for a $750 car) Putting the new computer in did nothing. In fact, it drained my battery and left a burning smell. We jumped the car (It continued to drain the battery- may put the old computer back in...........) to put the sensor in. This did nothing. It remained the same. The starter went out, and has to be replaced, probably from overwork, but the problem remains. (The new mechanic overrode the starter. He does not have diagnostic tools, though, He is a neighbor) What happens is this-
-The car starts beautifully and idles
-As it warms, you put your foot on the gas, and it begins to pop and backfire. Finally, it stalls out. Do you have any ideas? I have heard this model has had problems in rainy weather, by the way. Do you know why?

Is the original computer installed now? I would be interested to see if there is any change using the original computer and the 'new' MAF sensor. Make sure the battery neg. cable is disconnected when changing the computer. Another thing you could try yourself is to warm the car, just to point where it'll give problems and disconnect the MAF sensor electrical connector, and see if there is any change.
Let me know and we'll go from there.

The starter went out on the car...apparently, it was the problem with the electrical system. The car is back to the same problem....exactly...before a mechanic tried to get me to buy a computer for hundreds of dollars. (I got my own....)
It is almost like....there is something wrong with the fuel. It starts up find cold, and if you give it gas, it will drive forward or back a few feet before dying a slow death....I am wondering if the fuel injector cleaner dislodged crud in to fuel injectors, or it has bad gas???

Bad fuel is possible, there is plenty of it out there, but not probable.

You need to have fuel pressure checked with a gauge.

Did your mechanic rule out a restricted exhaust?

1986 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Ignition System   

The vehicle will sometimes crank and other times will not. If jumper cables are connected the vehicle will start immediately every time with no draw down on the second vehicle. The car will then run fine until it is turned off. It then may or may not start again after that.

3sGelc engine

I would remove and clean the battery cable ends.There is a date on battery. Most batterys last about 5 years.Test the alt with a volt meter. Should be about 13.5 volts running.No voltmeter? Look at rear of alternator.There is a protruding bearing housing, about 1 1/4" in dia.When the alternator is charging it produces a strong magnetic feild in this area, easily checked by holding a screwdriver in that area.Weak or no magnetic pull means bad alternator.Also ensure the belt is tight.

1986 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Ignition System   

I have an 86 toyota celica that has had a problem with the starter since i got it. The car starts pefectly when cold but as soon as i drive it around for a bit and fully turn off the vehicle the car will not atart. All it does is make a clicking noise and it seems to be the starter to be stuck. What can i do about this?

Hello, Have the battery tested for reserve power. Be sure the connections are free of corrosion and are tight.

Have the starter draw tested to see how many amps it draws. If over 175 amps, replace it.

Roger

I will replace all the wiring but for sure the battery will need to be replaced. I have heard that the starter heats up to much and thats what causes it to get stuck when trying to start it after driving for a while

Thanks

Replacing the battery will certainly help. It takes more amps to start a warmed up engine than a cold engine.

The starter receives radiant heat from the engine when warm. Can't be avoided. It won't get hot from cranking unless used extensively without allowing it to cool down.

If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up.

Roger

see the problem that i noticed that since the starter of this year is placed directly under an the exhaust manifold that is certaintly making it hotter. I put header wrap on the manifold but it helped a bit but it still does it at times.

Has replacing the battery brought favorible results?

Could someone locally fabricate a heat shield for the starter itself?

Roger

1985 Toyota Celica GTS Sport Drive Train / Driveline   

I have found a good A43D transmission in an 81 p/u. Can you tell me if I can use it to replace the A40D in my 85 Celica GT-S convertible (22RE engine)?

Re-asking.

The interchange lists only transmissions coming from 1[redacted] Celica's as compatible.

Have you been able to find one from a Celica, if not let me know which state you are in and I'll see what I can find.

Thanks, Douglas. I'm in NW Georgia (Summerville), so I could travel into TN or AL also, if one could be found.

Just to let you know the problem, I've had a problem with the overdrive since I bought the car. Replaced the O/D relay, throttle cable and removed and cleaned the solenoid. Finally got it shifting into O/D. Then I started losing 3rd.(slipping), but 1&2 working fine. 3 is slipping so bad that it seems not to be able to make it to O/D.

Thanks again

Here are a bunch of them, some list the price while others want you to call for price. I am not sure what they offer for warranty, but make sure they offer something.

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT,2.4L,ATOD 36608 $350 Brooks Auto Salvage USA-GA(Cartersville) E-mail [redacted] / [redacted] 29 (this number is for reported mileage from Summerville, GA)

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica 307067 $150 Jonesboro Auto Salvage USA-GA(Jonesboro) E-mail [redacted] 86 (mileage, will display on all search results).

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica RWD,A0D,FLOOR,GT 150,000 A C10657 $Call Mitchell's Used Auto Parts USA-GA(Conyers) E-mail [redacted] [redacted] 95

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 11 94,RWD,2.4,AT,FLR,GT M0716 $200 M'Boro Auto Parts USA-TN(Murfreesboro) E-mail [redacted] / [redacted] 108


1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT and GTS--154K 105,000 BLUE $100 Advance Auto Salvage USA-TN(Murfreesboro) [redacted] / [redacted]
108

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica CLEAN $500 Hearn's Salvage Company, Inc. USA-AL(Arley) E-mail [redacted] 114

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 2-85,RWD,4 CYL,AOD,FLOOR,GTS 7C1531 $350 Auto Parts For You, Inc. USA-GA(Canon) E-mail [redacted] 122

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica NO CONVERTER NOF $150 Chapman Enterprises, Inc. USA-TN(Knoxville) E-mail [redacted] / [redacted] 126

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica $300 Smitty's Auto Parts, Inc USA-TN(Nashville) E-mail [redacted] 136

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica 5-83,2.4,AT,FLR,GT,C HECK D5188 $Call Ed Powells Auto Salvage Inc. USA-SC(Anderson) E-mail [redacted] 149

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica Auto TRA, GT & GTS--U J111P $Call Avant Salvage Company USA-GA(Sandersville) [redacted] 171

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica UNSUREGTMATCHUPW/TOR QUELOOKAT! #[redacted] $125 Myer's Used Parts USA-TN(Greenville) E-mail [redacted] 178

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica NO TORQUE AUTO. #6200 $200 Tri-City Auto Parts USA-TN(Bluff-City) E-mail [redacted] 220

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica WORKS GOOD DROVE IN F7-174 $250 S and D Auto Salvage USA-NC(Grover) E-mail [redacted] / [redacted] 221

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GOOD 6599 $250 Mister Imports Foreign Parts USA-TN(Memphis) E-mail [redacted] 270

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica $175 Jerrell Auto Sales and Salvage USA-KY(Kevil) E-mail [redacted] Toll Free: [redacted] 272

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 2DR,HB,YES,MAN,WHITE ,4 85,2.4,OEM,BR 990179 $100 Dennis Hall's Auto Salvage USA-TN(Memphis) [redacted] / [redacted]
278

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica AUTO,22REC,GT #65824 $Call Bill's Auto Salvage USA-AR(Blytheville) E-mail [redacted] 279

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica 22RE,AT 114,553 A KE5334 $Call Barnette's Auto Parts USA-SC(Sumter) E-mail [redacted] 281

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT EXCELLENT 20316 $400 Salem Auto Sales, Inc. USA-NC(Winston-Salem) E-mail [redacted] 301

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 5-85,RWD,4,FAT,FLR,G T 140,000 22574S $Call Salem Auto Sales, Inc. USA-NC(Winston-Salem) E-mail [redacted] 301

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 22R,AT,GT 147,164 A AT0467 $Call Rogers Auto Parts, Inc. USA-MS(Ellisville) E-mail [redacted] 306

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 1-12-07 062346 $350 Kiker's Auto Parts USA-FL(Pensacola) E-mail [redacted] 308

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica 7-84,2.4,F-AT JK0156 $550 Case Used Parts #1 USA-SC(Marion) E-mail [redacted] 335

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 1-85,GT,22RE,F-AT,3. 58 LH0132 $550 Case Used Parts #1 USA-SC(Marion) E-mail [redacted] 335

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 10-84,RWD,2.2L,AT,FL 85187P $250 Pascagoula Auto Salvage USA-MS(Moss-Point) E-mail [redacted] 340

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 1-85,RWD,4CYL,AT,FL 85328G $250 Pascagoula Auto Salvage USA-MS(Moss-Point) E-mail [redacted] 340

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 12-84,RWD,4CYL,AT,FL ,GT E85057 $250 Pascagoula Auto Salvage USA-MS(Moss-Point) E-mail [redacted] 340

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 11-84,FWD,2.2L,AT,FL 85511K $250 Pascagoula Auto Salvage USA-MS(Moss-Point) E-mail [redacted] 340

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 22RE AUTO TRANS,#[redacted] #[redacted] $250 Nelson Auto Salvage Co. USA-VA(Martinsville) E-mail [redacted] 341

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica TAG 20471 NOF $125 Kil Kare Auto Wrecking USA-OH(Xenia) E-mail [redacted] 365

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT and GTS- F842P $400 Arkansas Foreign Car Parts USA-AR(North-Little Rock) [redacted] 391

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica -G #55747 $350 Ronnies Late Model USA-AR(North-Little Rock) E-mail [redacted] 391

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica 6-84,22R,4AT,EFI CM3604 $450 Rangeline Auto Parts - limited shipping USA-IN(Anderson) E-mail [redacted] / [redacted] 391

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica A,2.4,3/85,GT AND GTS- 590,000 C 252661 $200 Al's Foreign Car USA-MO(St.-Louis) [redacted]
402

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 22R-EC,AT,GT,TESTED OK 5G0280 $150 Helman Auto Parts USA-OH(Sidney) E-mail [redacted] 405

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT and GTS-AUTO 131,000 A F3078 $100.07 Brims Imports Auto USA-OH(Kenton) [redacted]
434

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT 89,724 960835 $175 Powell's Garage, Inc. USA-NC(Roanoke-Rapids) [redacted] [redacted] 446

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica TEST GOOD 3366 $350 Car Recyclers USA-IN(North-Manchester) E-mail [redacted] 449

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica - 504585 $Call StanLin Auto and Truck Salvage, Inc. USA-MO(Tebbetts) [redacted] 469

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica 24667 WHITE CP. GT 22RE 163,000 A 9091 $200 Central Florida Auto Salvage USA-FL(Zephyrhills) [redacted] [redacted]
469

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT and GTS- J7556P $350 West Used Auto Parts Inc. USA-FL(Orlando) E-mail [redacted] 471

1983
Transmission
Toyota Celica -A,2.4,12-82 030711 $300 Atlantic Auto Parts USA-NC(Newport) Request_Quote [redacted]
476

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT 01-06,SMF 119,000 2661 $300 Magic Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Clearwater) [redacted]
481

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica 02-06,SMF 005222 $Call Magic Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Clearwater) [redacted]
481

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica NOF $Call Magic Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Clearwater) Request_Quote [redacted] Request_Insurance_Quote
481

1984
Transmission
Toyota Celica 05-84,RWD,22R-E,AUTO ,FLO,GT 139,000 A BB0749 $200 Creston Auto Recycling USA-OH(Creston) E-mail [redacted] 483

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 2.4L,EFI,AOD,FL,RWD, 2LIF,NO CONV 004340 $Call Allens Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) E-mail [redacted] 485

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica 2.4,RED,9-84,FL-AOT 126,000 A 013769 $250 Brandon Auto Salvage, Inc. USA-FL(Valrico) E-mail [redacted] ext 4 489

1985
Transmission
Toyota Celica GT and GTS-78K 6189 $250 Culpeper Towing and Salvage Inc. USA-VA(Culpeper) Request_Quote [redacted] Request_Insurance_Quote 489