I accidently got the tip of a screw driver in to the lighter socket thus shorting ot the lighter,clock and the CD player all fuses look fine (the ones I can tell by sight)Cannot restore power to these devices.
heavychevy -
Hello
You may have burnt a wire up back behind the lighter try unplugging the lighter and than try it.
Heavychevy
heavychevy -
,,
heavychevy -
/
heavychevy -
Just doing a follow up to check on the progress of your corolla.
Heavychevy
Does the car have the original catalytic converter?
This code usually requires converter replacement to remedy. Although you can clear the code and test drive, sometimes the code will not come back.
Aftermarket converters are available that significantly reduce the cost, although these don't always last as long as original equipment.
How long do you plan on keeping the vehicle? Do you have state emissions testing where you live?
I assume there are no other codes and have your own code reader OR got the codes scanner free of charge at Autozone, Advance Auto, etc.
New User -
yes and yes i got the code reader free from advanced auto and the original converter is still on the car and we just payed it off and its a toyota you know how long they last thank you very much
Douglas -
Okay has the code been cleared (meaning the 'check engine? If not disconnect the negative battery cable for five minutes then reconnect. Drive normally and see if the check engine light comes back on within about 50 miles.
Note- This code usually indicates the catalytic converter is getting lazy and NOT a major problem that might strand you. It just means it's letting out a little more polution than the strict guidelines allow.
Advance Auto usually has the $100-ish cat. converter.
partsamerica.com
Above is their website check the price and get back to me. Also check ebay. Expect around $300-ish for a Toyota converter... unless we get lucky and the light does not come back on.
Whenever you replace a converter you want to make sure plugs/wires/etc are good. When you have a misfire (from one of the items above) or any other condition that causes an undesirable fuel mix... this is tough on the cat. converter and can lead to premature failure (especially true if you opt for an *affordable* converter).
Douglas -
The prior entry corrected...
---Okay has the code been cleared (meaning the 'check engine' light was turned OFF). If not disconnect... ---
New User -
i went to partsamerica and found 4 walker catalytic converters rangeing from $62 - $200. i called our local advance auto in pgh., and they charged between $62 - $176 at least i know if i need one how much the are.
Douglas -
How many miles on the engine? I forgot to mention this as the converter is covered by Federal Emissions Warranty (~8 years ~80K, but I have to check to be sure).
If you did have to buy one, you'd want the 'direct fit' converter as the other requires welding or cutting & conversion.
New User -
the car is 6 yrs old and has 64,000 mls. does this mean its covered under some kind of federal warranty. yes the direct fit seems to be the way to go and its about $180 just for the parts dont know bout the labor yet?
Douglas -
Copy the following link into your address bar for "proof"--
http://www.epa.gov/obd/warranties.htm
Now you must understand certain things could void the warranty coverage, like performance upgrades or lack of required maint. That said you should be covered.
Toyota is required to honor the warranty BUT must first diagnose the problem themselves, they won't take our word for it. Here is the catch, Dealerships' usually make more money if they charge you vs being reimbursed by the manufacturer. I don't know if money has anything to do with it, but Dealers' often "require" notification of the warranty. Now, not all them do and Toyota would be one of the most favorable to deal with (on average...).
Is the engine light on now?
Douglas -
... and do have state emissions testing that requires the check engine light to be Off or tailpipe emissions testing?
New User -
im pretty sure in pgh., pa that both the light and tail pipe are used for emissions. what does (specified major emissions-control components mean?) because the warranty on this is good for up to 8yrs., and 80,000mls and my car is 6yrs., and 64,000mls. whats the best way to find out if this problem with the converter is covered under warranty?
Douglas -
The converter and computer (PCM or powertrain control module) are both 'major components.'
If you have any reason to be suspicious of your local dealer... contact Toyota customer service and let them know you have a trouble code P0420 and have been informed the catalytic converter [likely*] requires replacement and you want to be armed with proof... should your dealer be "unaware" of the federal emissions warranty on cat. converters.
*likely, an example of when a catalytic converter would not require replacement is when the computers software needs reprogramming because the manufacturer didn't get it right. I think this would be covered too.
A brief explanation on how the (infamous P0420) code sets:
You have an oxygen sensor before and after the catalytic converter. A healthy oxygen sensor is constantly switching in response to the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust gases. A healthy catalytic converter 'changes' the exhaust that passes through.
This change causes the [opposing] oxygen sensors to switch at different speeds. Your cars computer (PCM) monitors this and is programmed to flag trouble code P0420 when... not enough of a change is being reported between the front and rear oxygen sensors.
This basically means the oxygen sensors are reporting at the same rate, indicating a lazy or non-working catalytic converter.
P0420 Catalyst Efficiency below Threshold
-Catalyst (this is what changes the exhaust gas)
- Efficiency (is it working?)
-Threshold (predetermined in the computer/PCM software).
Douglas -
Toyota [redacted] - Customer service
You may still have warranty documentation that came with your car, that covers the converter warranty.
2001 Toyota Corolla Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
I notice this probelm when I was coming home from a 300 mile trip and as I was traveling down the highway my lights would go dim then a few second later they were bright! So knowing I had two more hours to go and didnt want to get stuck on the side of the road I turn off the radio, heater, and still once a while it would happen. The temp that night was 40 degree so I dont think the cooling fan would kick on. Is it the alternator?
Douglas -
Assuming the battery cables/etc are not corroded (creating an intermittent bad connection) the most likely cause is the alternator. How many miles on the car?
New User -
the car has 78000 and I bought it last month with 77000. I replace the battery because when I started it up it didnt have that turn over like it should and it had a delco battery where the green eye wasnt showing. Could the battery being bad could of cause a probelm with the alt. Because the battery looks like to me that came with the car when it was new!
New User -
I got one reply and ask for more infor on this problem I am having. So I submit more infor and havnt receive any answer. All I want to know is this, should I just remove the Alt. and have it check? And could a battery that is weak and has age could cause a problem on a alt...?
Douglas -
Sorry, I've been sick and wasn't online.
A weak battery is hard on an alternator. An alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery.
Removing the alternator and having it tested may reveal a problem with the alternator, but doesn't guarantee the fault will be observed during testing. In other words testing can confirm the alternator is bad- but may miss the problem as the problem is intermittent.
New User -
ok! With our weather being so mild I want to do this now since I dont have a garage to work on my car. I thought that might be a good idea to do but just wanted to confirm this with you! Hope you feel better! Jim!
Heat does not blow on the floor. When the switch is turned to defrost or vent it blows great; plenty of heat. It just won't blow on the floor. Thanks for your help.
Bruce Kit -
The dash switch actuates a valve with a door in the plenum under the dash. If you can find the pever under the dash (difficult to find) then you can manually actuate it. Testing it and the switch can be done if you have a schematic of the heater operation (factory shop manual)
1998 Toyota Corolla Engine Won't Start When repairing Always
New User Asked -
Hi,
This is a neat service, I hope you can help me. 1989 Toyota Corolla starter needs replacement. I'm attempting to remvce the thing and haven't been sucessful. Have a Haynes manual it says there are mounting bolts for the starter housing but only shows one on the diagram. Really hard to get to. Removed the upper radiator hose and the starter moter and still cant find the other two fasteners.? What's the trick? Thanks
Roger -
Hello, What size engine are you working on, please?
Did the Haynes manual tell you to remove the upper radiator hose?
The starter on a Toyota is down low on the side of the engine block. It has been my experience that the lower fastener for the starter is a bolt and the upper fastener is a nut screwed onto a stud.
Of course you would disconnect the car battery before you start this job. I use a swivel socket on a short extention to get to that top nut on the starter. The wires to the starter are a given on removal and reconnect. Just remember where they go.
Roger
New User -
Haynes did not say to remove the upper radiator hose, but I did. It is a 1/8 4 cyl engine. Went from the bottom after removing the shield. Removed the bottom fastener it is a bolt and felt around the backside and looked with a mirror. I had removed the starter motor for better access. all this is under the exhuast manifold!! So ot is a stud with a nut?
New User -
Well I found it! It's a bolt on the other side of the bell housing! Had to remove the air cleaner assembly to get to it. Good try thanks anyway.
Norman
Roger -
Now you have an idea how dificult it is to guide someone when you've no idea which engine they are working on. I had to be away from my computer for several hours and when I returned I received both of your messages at once.
If you do not feel that I should have credit for my input, please contact All-Parts.
1998 Toyota Corolla Chassis / Suspension & Steering
New User Asked -
I have a rattle somewhere in the front end. It sounds like its coming from the right wheel but other times sounds like between the two front wheels. It sounds like something is loose. Sounds as though the rotor is loose on the hubs. But I replaced the rotors myself and torqued the lugs by hand to 100 ft/lbs. I was just under the car this weekend replacing the donut between the manifold and cat and didn't notice anything loose. Any ideas?
Roger -
Hi, Did you hear the rattle prior to replacing the brake rotors? Does the rattle continue when the brakes are applied?
Do you have access to ramps that you can drive the front wheels up on? This would allow you the space to get under the front of the car And use a rubber hammer to bump different places to try and produce the rattle. It may help you locate the source of the noise.
Roger
New User -
Roger, I don't remember hearing the rattle prior to replacing the rotors. I do have a jack and jack stands. I have not tried the rubber mallet test. When I was under the car this past weekend I tugged on the suspension rods and steering rods and didn't notice any looseness or play. Have you ever heard of other corollas with this problem? I'm thinking it must be a fairly common issue. I was hoping for a known fix. What do you think could be the most likkely problems?
Roger -
I had asked if you hear the rattle when the brakes are applied? If not I suspect the disc brake pads are rattling in the caliper mount. They were removed to replace the rotors. They may not be a perfect fit.
I have heard front end rattles on various car makes. Corollas included. The mallet test has been very helpful in identifying the source. Striking a tire sidewall will shock the brakes but keep in mind you are looking for a particular sound. If you creat a different noise, move on until you find the sound you are "tuned" to.
Roger
New User -
I think it must be the brake pads rattling. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I'll respond when I verify it is or is not the pads. Thanks.
Roger -
All right. I'll check back for your message.
Roger
Roger -
Have you had time to check for brake pads causing the rattle?
Roger
New User -
Unfortunately I have not. I will hopefully be able to do so this weekend. I will make sure to check back here when I do.
Roger -
Your question is now 30 days old and will be closed by the site administrator unless you update the status. Should the question be closed before we have finished you will want to write and request to have it reopened.
If we are finished, please click on OK to finish up.
Thank you,
Roger
New User -
I was able to take the front end apart this weekend and diagnose the problem. It was the hub and rotor. The rotor was slightly too big for the hub so the rotor is rattling on the hub. Have you ever experienced this? Any ideas on a fix? We used a center punch to center the rotor on the hub (it worked) and then used some filler metal similar to JB Weld. I only used a tiny amount and it seemed to hold but now its rattling again. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks.
Roger -
The rotor should be clinched tight by the wheel lug nuts when the tire and wheel are installed and torqued to 100 ft pounds.
Flip the rotor over so you can see the surface that mates with the hub. Expect to find rust on this surface around and between the lug bolt holes. If you find rust clean it off or the rotor will not lay flat on the hub surface. If the mating surface on the hub has rust clean it also.
If the rotors have screws that hold it on be sure thay are tight with an impact screw driver (the kind you hit on the end with a hammer).
Roger
New User -
Roger,
The rotors are new, the hubs had no rust and I hand torque all my lugs to 100 ft-lbs. The problem is the rotor does not fit snuggly on the hub. even with the lugs torqued it still rattles. You've never seen this before? No ideas how to fix? I figure my oem replacement rotor had a slightly oversized opening for the hub size. I might have to buy a new hub and rotor. What do you think?
Roger -
I can't see what you can and no; with regard to replacing the front rotors I have not seen what you describe.
Are you certain the rotors are the rattle? There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) from Toyota concerning pad rattle you may want to see. Bulletin BR002-00 Dated March 10, 2000. Want a copy? I'll need your email address please.
Roger
New User -
Roger,
I'm pretty sure its the rotor rattling on the hub. One side moves up and down on the hub a little the other side doesn't. The side that moves is where the sound is coming from. It sounds identical.
I would like the service bulletin though.
[redacted]
Thank you,
Matt
Roger -
Matt, I'll send you the bulletin. Check your inbox, spam, and junk mail for subject TOYOTA TSB.
If this turns out to be a rotor problem the only thing I could understand is you have the wrong parts in the right boxes, or mayby a parts supplier that looked up the wrong part.
Been doing this work for decades. Never had a rotor not cinch up with wheel lug nuts on any make or model.
1997 Toyota Corolla Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving Always
New User Asked -
when driving I feel a vibration in the front end (suspect the left side) that increases in frequency (like having a rock stuck in the tire) as car accelerates. I don't see any defects in the tire and when I remove the tire and turn the axle by hand I don't see anything to clearly indicate what it might be. when moving slowly the steering wheel shifts distinctly and the whole car shifts from side to side slightly. Any ideas how to narrow down the cause?
Sterlingfixer -
If you feel it below 20MPH, it sounds like a bad tire. Jack the front wheels up one at a time and with the e-brake on, watch the wheel turn as it idles in drive. You should see a bubble on one of the tires, or more likely you have a broken cord in the tire which will show up as the tire twisting or twitching from side to side as it rotates.
From a stop, if I put the car in reverse, then let up on the brake, I hear a clunking sound like two plastic cups banging together. I only hear the sound once on initial movement. If I stop and put the car in Drive, then while releasing the brake I hear the same noise, just once, again. Any ideas what could be wrong? Turning does seem to cause the noise.
Roger -
Hello, Have you looked at the CV Joint grease boots to see if any are torn? Lack of grease would result causing the joints to wear and become noisey especially when turning and accelerating. Sometimes sound like a rapid clicking sound.
My tail light fuse keeps blowing and my instrument lights won't turn on with the head lights.
Douglas -
Does the tail light fuse blow immediately when the light are turned on? Do the front marker lights go out too?
New User -
it blows immediately and the marker lights are out too
New User -
are you still there?
New User -
Are you still helping me?
Sterlingfixer -
Since your fuse blows immediately, you have a full-time short circuit. This could be anyplace in the lighting wiring circuit. I would start with looking at the wiring running along the trunk hinge. It can get torn/pinched/chafed. If that is OK, go around the whole car, removing all the parking/side marked bulbs. Look at the harness, socket and wiring at each one. If no problem found, try a new fuse with all the bulbs removed. If it does not blow, put each bulb back (with the lights on) and make sure it does not blow. If you have a bad/wrong bulb, or a bad socket, it will blow when you install it.
If the fuse still blows with all the bulbs removed, you still have a short. Look under the dash, at after market items like radio, alarm, remote start, extra lights.
have to turn key repeatedly to start selonoid kicks but not starter this has gone on for 1 year now car will not start selonoid still kicks
heavychevy -
Hello
Sounds like a bad starter or a bad or loose connection. Look for loose wires or bad connections. If thats not the problem than I would replace the starter.
Heavychevy
Whenever I try to start my Corolla, I hear a click and everything shuts off in the car. The battery is new, so I don't know if a short would cause this. I have to get out and wiggle the battery and all electrical items turn on again. This happens over and over. Someone told me it could be the anti-theft shutting down the car. Waht do you think?
Roger -
Hello, Take note of what wire harness or battery cable connection that you wiggle that wakes up the electrical.
See what is going on there. Connection problem?? If it is a side post battery connection take the cable loose and remove the bolt from the terminal end and look for hidden corrosion.
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
I don't see any corrosion since the battery and cables are kind of new. There are two ways I can wake up the electrical; 1. unhook the cable and then reattach, 2. wait about 5 minutes and it all comes on again. I guess I could take it to the dealer, but i can't get it started.
Roger -
All right, so it's not the wiggling of the wires that wakes things up it is either a waiting game or disconnect/reconnect the battery..........might be a relay.
Brake lights wont come off even when car is off.what do I do?
Bruce Kit -
Easy.Under the dash is the brakelight switch. The brake pedal has a pivot point thay it swings on. About 5 inches below that point is the switch. It is small. about the size of your little finger, it has an electrical plug with usually two wires.It has a small button that is depressed when your foot is off the pedal.Apply the pedal, the little button comes out, the light gous on. The switch sometimes goes out of adustment, or fails. Easy to adjust, easy to replace.
1997 Toyota Corolla Chassis / Suspension & Steering
New User Asked -
the car starts but the car willnot shift from park to reverse, or any other gear. The gear shift is lock on park. I also noticed that when a press on the brake pedal, the brake lights at the back of the car wont go on. Why can't I change gears, what do I need to do?
Suzanne
Roger -
Hello, There is a shift lock that prevents the shifter to move out of Park. This device gets power when the key is turned on. When stepping on the brake the lock is disengaged if the brake lights work.
Begin by checking your fuse for the brake lights. If it has blown look at the brake light lens for cracks that would allow water to collect inside the lamp assembly and cause a short circuit.
Try replacing the fuse and see if the brake lights work.
1996 Toyota Corolla Chassis / Suspension & Steering
New User Asked -
Rear brakes are creating a large high pitch squealing while the brakes are not suppressed. Car will come to complete stop sometimes without pressing the brakes. Happens frequently but is not necessarily constant.
Sterlingfixer -
It sounds like a problem! I would wait until it acts up, jack up the rear of the car, check which wheel is dragging. Next, open the bleed screw until some fluid comes out and see if the wheel is now free. If it is free, suspect clogged brake hoses, or a bad master cylinder.
If the wheel is still dragging, check parking brake cable for proper adjustment, stiff cables, or components out of proper position.
If that is OK, look at the brake hydraulics...the caliper or wheel cylinder, or brake pads/shoes/hardware out of place.
Can not get carge voltage/current from the alternator. Had the battey and alternator tested by two parts shops and both tested good. Replaced the ECU after testing (ringing out) the charging curcuit and not finding any open connections.
Douglas -
You will need to use a wiring diagram to perform voltage tests.
Please leave your email address so I can send a diagram that help solve the problem.
sippolad -
[redacted]
sippolad -
Douglas,
By the way I have checked for voltage at the alternator "B" terminal, without the battery cable attached and there is nothing. I "ASS"ume that the field (stator) charge is not present.
1995 Toyota Corolla Ignition System Won't Start When starting
New User Asked -
This is driving me insane. Of course I realize that I will need to purchase an instruction manual. But here goes...I don't know the first thing about cars. I have always had repair shops, "RIP ME OFF". (oops I mean fix them for me) My wife got in the car this morning, turned the key and heard a click. Tried again. Heard a click. Car did not turn over. Nothing seemed unusual other than the car not starting and hearing, "CLICK". What is this? Mom told me, Uncle claimed, baby daughter continues to yell her new word, "Daddy its the CELLENOID." I am positive that it is something minor. Can you feed me the details on how to find this problem? Although it helps with my wife's excecise routine, I realize that pushing the car to JUMP START it every morning can be damaging somewhere down the line. In summary, (and I realize this was long...but I love to write as well as fix cars if you have noticed) Can you detail word for word my procedure in locating our clicking problem starting with the battery possibly? A long response from you would be desired but if you have children (like my bad rug rat) I will still appreciate a basic response.
Thanks in advance.
Sterlingfixer -
HI,
The solenoid is likely the problem on your Corolla. The solenoid is built into the starter and as such, the whole starter should be changed. The starter is bolted with 2 bolts and 2 wires, is on the rear of the engine, near the center of the car. If you get the new one first, then you can easily match it with what you need to change.
Dale
New User -
ahhh...good detail. But I don't think I clarified myself very well. I need full instructions on how to diagnosis and repair this starting problem. I have been told to start with the battery connections and thats about it. I am assuming I should check the connections then check the voltage. In other words, what would be your procedure in diagnosing this problem and then if you could desribe the process in changing any parts would be appreciated. Leon
Sterlingfixer -
I am not prepared to run vo-tech by email, but I will give a few more tips.
#1 Use a test light clipped to the motor and touching the nut on the big starter wire. It shuold light up. Hold the test light iin that pposition while someone else tries to start the car. It should stay lit.
#2 Touch into the back of the small wire. It should light when the key is turned to start.
#3 If both are fine, go to your local parts place, buy a rebuilt starter and a Toyota Corolla repair book. With these 2 ( and a set of tools) you should be able to finish the repair.
Enjoy your chance to better the repair shops!
Dale
1995 Toyota Corolla All Part Groups Malfunction Happens always Always
New User Asked -
I had my clutch replaced last August 04. My car was sitting for 2 months, although I started it and drove it around the block at least twice a week. I took it for its first "road trip" today. After about 10 miles, I could no longer shift it into another gear, it was like something was in its way, the clutch had some resistance, so I thought it was the casing. Then at the next red light, it cut off and when I restarted, it was in first, I let the clutch out and noticed their was no resistance it was easy to push and the car jumped, stalled and can not get out of gear. It will not restart because it is in first and no clutch. Does it sound like the master cylinder and how difficult is it to fix, thanks.
Roger -
Hello, First look and see if the clutch master cylinder has a low fluid level. Chances are that the slave cylinder has failed.
The slave cylinder can be found by following the metal line from the clutch master cylinder down to the clutch housing. It is on the outside, is easy to replace and fairly inexpensive.
If you don't have a low fluid level then either the master or the slave cylinder may have an internal seal blown. I'd look hardest at the slave cylinder.
Bleeding air out of the clutch system can be a little tricky.
1995 Toyota Corolla Brake System Sticking When braking Always
New User Asked -
My front brakes gradually lock up after 10 to 15 miles of driving. I replaced both front calipers w/pads & rotors (twice-just in case of defect), brake hoses (twice--just in case of defect), portioning valve, and master cylinder (twice-just in case of defect) and still the same. When it finally reaches to where the car does not want to move I open either one of the caliper bleeder screws or one of the master cylinder lines and brake fluid shoots out releasing the brake pressure. I then can drive the car again 10 to 15 miles until it happens again. Everything in the rear brakes (shoes, drums, hoses and cylinders) were replace as well just in case. Any help will definetly be appreciated-thanks.
kaptnzog -
Does' this vehicle happen to be equipped with anti lock?
1995 Toyota Corolla Electrical / Lighting Systems Sticking Happens always Always
New User Asked -
brake lights stuck on. i have to remove the fuse to turn them off. what could i do to resolve this matter
Douglas -
Start by checking the brake light switch to see if it is dislodged from it's holder (out of place) or simply not turning off.
Look up near the top of the brake pedal arm to locate the switch. When you press on the brake the switch is activated. By the way, it could also simply be misadjusted. You can confirm this by manually operated the switch, you'll need someone to watch the lights as you do it.
1.6L 4 cyl engine was leaking oil changed gaskets and oil now the engine has bad knocking sound.That's what owner told me about auto I'm thinking about buying. 135k miles.Is this a simply fix or should engine be replaced.
Douglas -
It is possible the engine was run low on oil (because of the leak) and suffered significant damage. Also some Toyota's have experienced engine failure due to sludge build-up in the engine.
You said it's a "bad" knocking sound, so I think we can rule out an exhaust leak near the engine (which can sound like engine noise).
You could remove the accessory drive belt from the engine to see if the noise disappears. This of course would mean one of the belt driven components was making the noise.
If the noise is clearly coming from the engine block, there is no simple fix. Engine rebuild (not recommended) or replacement (used, lower mileage with warranty is acceptable from a reputable salvage yard) will be necessary.
Only buy this car at a price that reflect it NEEDING another engine-- not much.
My engine acts like one of the injectors is not working, but when it was switched out with one of the other injectors it worked fine. So the #1 cylinder seems to be not working, but it is firing and it is getting gas.
Douglas -
Have you confirmed injector pulse, with a noid light? This would prove the injector is being turned ON.
If you have good spark/plug, injector & pulse, the next thing to check is cylinder compression with a compression gauge.
New User -
I just put new spark plugs and wires on it. I also switched the #1 injector with the #3 injector and the injector worked fine. If the compression is low in that cylinder, what kind of problem might that indicate?
Douglas -
Low compression can be a valve problem, ring/piston, or head gasket failure.
You have proven the injector works fine, but have you proven the #1 injector is being fired (the ON/OFF electrical pulse, best tested with a noid light).
Another thing to consider is a vacuum leak/disturbance to that cylinder.
New User -
I have checked to see if the cylindere is firing and it is. Could the timing possibly be off by a few degrees? And how could I check for a vacuum leak?
1995 corolla will not start, engin cranks but will not fire. Three weeks ago I started it, drove it to work came out 15 minutes later and here I am. Car has 128,000 miles on it. I have replaced the componets of the distributor, the igniter and have had the ECM re-programmed. I have checked the open relay, EFI relay, engin relay and related fuses. I am getting no spark or fuel to the injectors.
Any Ideas?
macconeck - macconeck -
With the ignition key in the on position check for a constant 12 volts at the coil and if you have a auto stethescope you need to listen for a clicking noise at thethe injectors.
What size engine do you have?
Do you have a schematic diagram of your car?
Was the ecm reprogrammed at a service center?
Did you scan the computer for stored or present codes
New User -
Car is running, turned out to be the MAP sensor. I un-pluged it and the car started. Dealer convinced me it was the computer.
will not start no fire ,no fuel. does computer go bad easily?rela,module and distributor ok.
Bruce Kit -
Usually the comp does not quit as you might think, but it does control both the fuel injection and the spark.
First thing to look for is the fuse that controls the ecm.
Then scan the car for malfunction codes, as a sensor might be the problem.
New User -
I checked the fuses,all ok.computer had code 24 shorted iat sensor,replaced sensor.fuel pumpworks fine when you ground the wire going to the fuel pump relay from the computer.Something is telling the computer not to fire and send fuel.Thanks
Bruce Kit -
Check the IAT wiring.
New User -
I found a bad crank sensor.I have another problem with another car.A 1998 honda civiv,manual transmission,the speedometer does not work,changed the vss and checked wiring.the speedometer needle fliped around behind the zero.
Bruce Kit -
Internal stop pin in speedo, not really repairable. Find used one at autowrecker (hopefully with lower mileage! )
I replaced both axle shafts about 8000 mile ago. It now sounds like a bearing is going out, I checked both hubs, they are good. Is there a bearing or bushing where the axle shafts enter the transmission?
Roger -
Hi, The axle is splined into the tranny but the associated bearing would not normally go bad.
When driving the car at slow speeds can you effect the noise you are hearing by steering left/right in a mild swerving motion? Centrifical force will cause a left bearing to have an increase in load on a swerve to the right and visa versa.
Does an on/off ramp like a highway cloverleaf turn increase the noise?
Roger
New User -
The car is with my son at college. I am taking a trailer to pick the car up on Friday Feb. 24th. I will check further to determine the type of noise. I will get back with you then. Thanks
1995 1.8 Toyota Corolla Automatic 3 speed California car. Vehicle has hesitaton and misfire at 55mph to 65 mph. Spark Plugs, Wires, Distributor cap and Rotor and Fuel Filter have been replaced.
Roger -
Hello, Here are suggestions of where to look.
HESITATION & POOR ACCELERATION:
Ensure proper spark exists from ignition syatem
Ensure ignition timing is correct
Ensure fuel system performs properly(fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injector, and fuel pressure regulator
Check EGR syatem
Check engine compression, valve clearance, valve timing and timing belt (if equipped)
Check Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and wiring
Check airflow meter or MAP sensor and wiring
Check oxygen sensor and wiring
Check cold start injector (if equipped)
Check Engine Control Module (ECM) and wiring.
ENGINE BACKFIRES:
Ensure proper spark exists from ignition system
Ensure ignition timing is correct
Check valve timing and timing belt (if equipped)
Ensure fuel system performs properly(fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injector, and fuel pressure regulator
1994 Toyota Corolla Engine Chugging When accelerating When warm
New User Asked -
The car stumbles very badly under all but the slighest load at lower RPM's. It is a manual transmission, and I must rev the engine to approx. 2500 rpm, while letting the clutch slip and slowley engage, in order to take off from a dead stop. Once moving, the car "baugs" down with anything other than the slighest touch of the accelator, until it once again reaches a higher rpm. At higher RPM, I can fully depress the accelator with no, or only very mild hesitation. There is no abnormal smoke from the car.
I have removed and inspected the spark plugs. They appear very white and completly dry. I have also replaced the fuel filter, which did no good.
The problem seems to get worse as the engine comes up to temperature. The "check engine" light has not came on.
Thank you in advance for your suggestions.
encsisme -
White and powdery means lean.. lean is bad.. causes lots of internal (excessive) temps and can in time melt a piston. Do you have fuel injection or a carb? Assuming it is fuel injection have you thought about removing the injectors and inspecting the inlet screens. They are located inside the nipple that connects the injector to the fuel rail and I have seen them get full of dirt and fail. Do you have the ability to borrow a set of fuel injectors from a friend or purchase a set? I am sure you will find that this is a major source of your problems. Until you figure this out.. STOP DRIVING THE CAR!. Let me know.. Good Luck.. Al
New User -
The vehicle is fuel injected. I do not have access to borrow a set of injectors. Given the expense of injectors, and the nature of how the issue arose, I would like to try something else first. The problem arose abruplty, and not gradually. I have thought of either replacing the fuel pump, or at least purchasing a fuel pressure gage to check it. Would you think the fuel pump could be a culprit, or would this barking up the wrong tree?
Also, I have not been driving the vehicle, other than to check it after a change. The problem is bad enough to render the vehicle undrivable.
Thanks again, I really appreciate your quick reply.
encsisme -
I understand your troubleshooting and concerns. There is a possibility that the fuel pump has stopped working properly and replacing it is a possiblity. Normally though, a fuel pump works or it does not. If the car will run even a little, then your problem might be a clogged strainer on the fuel pump or even a broken fuel hose between the fuel pump and the hard lines (inside the tank)... saw that once and it was a bear to troubleshoot.. car ran ok until you got to about 3/4 of a tank.... a quick way to see how much fuel you get is to remove the banjo fitting that goes to the fuel rail and have someone turn the key tothe on position. The fuel pump should run for about 10 seconds and be a full consistent flow... if not then replace the fuel pump and sending unit (they should come as one assembly)... and to find a set of injectors I would look on ebay.. with some luck you can find a set.. finally.. if this does not work I would see if I am getting a consistent pulse from the ECU to the injectors... the tool for this is called a NOID and costs about 10 at NAPA or AutoZone. Good luck.. Let me know. AL
New User -
One last question, then I will stop bothering you, as I feel as you have led me on the right track.
I removed and plugged the vacuum line to the fuel presure regulator, which should place it in the fully open position. This made no difference what-so-ever in the way the car runs. Would I be correct in thinking that this points even more so to a fuel presure or fuel restriction issue? Or would plugging the vacuum to the regulator not have that much of an effect anyway?
Thanks once again.
encsisme -
This would cause your fuel pressure regulator to fully open... lowering your pressure.. but flushing out the fuel rail of any trash and sending it back to the tank.. and dont worry about "bothering me" I am currently replacing a timing belt on an Isuzu trooper and needed a break in the A/C. Good luck .. Let me know.. AL
1994 Toyota Corolla Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern
New User Asked -
I can turn the key, but it just clicks. After a few attempts, it starts. It drives as normal, although occasionally, I detect a scraping sound when turning the steering wheel to the right, shortly after starting up. This may not be connected as the scraping started first and seems to have diminished somewhat.
Douglas -
For the starting problem you need to check the battery cables. A thorough inspection of the battery terminals, ground wire, connections at starter, etc. Take these apart and check for corrosion and clean/replace as necessary. If you don't find a problem with the battery cables, the starter/solenoid will need replacing.
Many 'chain' auto parts stores offer free testing of your starter while it's on or off the car .
As for the scraping, this simply will require a visual inspection to see what the obstruction is. Look near the coil-springs, wheels, steering linkage, etc."
New User -
Thank you very much for your prompt reply. I am just wondering if you would rule out the ignition switch? I have noticed that, in general, it takes longer to start when the car has not been driven for more than an hour. (I am in the UK, and it can be a bit of a nightmare here when things go wrong with your car!)
Douglas -
No, I don't rule out the ignition switch. Check the things I've suggested and we'll go from there.
The UK, I would guess the auto parts stores there don't offer free testing.
1994 Corolla doesn't charge. Alternator tested ok on test stand. All fuses good. Alt to Bat wire ohms out ok. Two of the three alt plug in wires ohm ok to +bat term. Third alt plug wire doesn't ohm to + or ground. Doesn't appear to be an alt relay in this vehicle. any ideas??
macconeck -
what size engine do you have and are you getting 12 volts out of the alternator to ground?
It is possible that the batt is not holding a charge
once the car is started will the engine run although the batt is disconected?
New User -
Battery is new and checks out ok that it holds a charge. Car runs ok until battery goes dead. Ground from engine to frame and battery to engine and battery to frame are all good. Seems as though the alternator is just not "turning on". It is the Denso type alt. Engine is the small 4 cylinder.
macconeck -
Did you take the alternator out to have it tested or did you test it in the car?
1994 Toyota Corolla Chassis / Suspension & Steering
New User Asked -
I Was Driving home on the freeawy when i smelled burning i got outhe car and saw my right brake rotor red hot I mediatelly drove to the nearest gas station and was able to barely pull in the caliper was stuck, ok i replaced the caliper andwas able to drive the car for that night and everything was perfect till next morning untill i went to the store I had the same problem the car will not go and i can't even move it i know that the caliper replacment was done ok but now I still have the same problem and I might be thinking coauld it be the Master cylinder, because as soon the car gets hot the calipers (new) stick MS Cylinder? Proportioning Valve? can some one help me?
Roger -
Hello, My experience reminds me to replace the rubber flex hose that connects the caliper to the car's brake line.
The hose softens from the inside and the wall collapses preventing reverse flow of the fluid to the master cylinder when you release the foot brake.
I recommend changing both front flex lines and bleeding the brakes again.
Thoughts?
Roger
Roger -
Did you get my message to you? Please update.
Roger
Roger -
How are you doing with this one? Please advise.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
Booster diaphragm was not retrieving I Basically replaced the entire brake system and except the lines
the good thing is this car is very economical and I did not spen more than 350. Unfortunally the car was wrecked (Not Related to the Problem)
Roger -
Goodness! I've been waiting since May to hear from you but never could have expected news like this.
Will you click OK to finish up so I can move on? What are your thoughts?
Roger
Roger -
Do you need something else on this question? If not please click on OK to finish up.
How do I remove the 100 amp fuse from the under-hood fuse box? I opened the fuse box to gain access from underneath. Now there is a hard plastic cover over the underside of the fuses that I can't see to remove for servicing.
Douglas -
It should have clips that you pry to allow it to release, then there should be two little bolts that hold the relay in place.
Copy and Paste the above link into your address bar for instructions. Make sure to torque the large axle nut with a torque wrench or wheel bearing failure all but guaranteed.
Many of the tools you need are available at AutoZone or Advance Auto as part of their Tool Loaner Program. You pay a fully refundable deposit to borrow the tools.
1993 Toyota Corolla Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction
New User Asked -
parking lights and instrument lights don't come on at all. All other lights, radio, AC blower, turn signals function correctly. All fuses OK, and relays OK. what's wrong? Could this be headlight switch?
Douglas -
Yes, the most likely cause will be the headlight switch.
What is the manufacturer's specification for engine compression for this model,1.8 L,1762cc,L4,7AFE,DOHC
macconeck -
A-series engine was the 1.8 L (1762 cc) 7A-FE. Produced from 1993 to 1998, it was a 4-valve DOHC narrow-valve-angle economy engine. Cylinder bore was 81 mm (3.19 in) and stroke was 85.5 mm (3.37 in).
An early Canadian version produced 115 hp (86 kW) at 5600 rpm and 110 ft·lbf (149 N·m) at 2800 rpm.
It is rated at 115 hp (86 kW) at 5600 rpm and 115 ft·lbf (155 N·m) at 2800 rpms.
I hope this helps
Sometimes the clutch pedal stickes to the floor while driving or while stopped. Then I will have to pull the pedal back up with my foot or hand. I've had the clutch pedal go all the way down by itself after only touching the pedal with my finger with the car off and parked in my driveway. Whats wrong with it, it seems to be getting worse?
Douglas -
The probable cause is the clutch master cylinder sticking. The piston is likely binding in the bore when the pedal is fully depressed. Confirm this by removing the clutch master cylinder and slowly push the pedal down by hand (not to much force). Note if there is any sticking/binding with the master cylinder out of the picture.
If there is:
The problem is with is within the clutch linkage. Do a visual inspection while moving the pedal to determine the source.
If not the promlem should be in the master cylinder as previously desribed.
1992 Toyota Corolla All Part Groups Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm
New User Asked -
If I drive a short distance, starts OK. If I drive a longer distance & no stop and go traffic, starts OK. If I drive for a while in stop and go traffic or freeway followed by slower driving....will not start. Starts just fine when cold or after cooling down for 1 1/2 hours or so with hood open.
I've replaced the starter 2X, the battery is fine, all fuses OK, doesn't seem to overheat, radiator fan comes on once in a while. When it won't start I hear a sortof hum, never a click......??????
Douglas -
If you bought inexpensive starters from a discount auto chain the problem could be starter itself. Check to see if battery voltage (12+ dc volts) is available to the starter motor when attempting to start engine. Follow safety precautions around moving engine parts! If there is not a problem with voltage, the starter won't operate at normal temperatures because of inferior quality OR there is excessive heat plaguing the starter. Consider installing a heat shield.
If you don't have a repair manual,
Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste this link into your Address bar-
1992 Toyota Corolla Engine Stalling When starting When cold
New User Asked -
Hello. I have an automatic 1992 Corolla with 81K miles which recently needed a new alternator. After the alternator was replaced, the check engine light came on, and the car would not start properly. When the car is started, it needs to be revved in neutral to warm the engine. As it has become much colder outside, the car now stalls out when started multiple times until it can be warmed up for five minutes. Once the car is warmed up, it is fine. I had an engine diagnostic performed, and was told the throttle position sensor was the cause for my issue. Does this sound correct, or what else should I investigate?
Douglas -
The throttle position sensor can cause your problems. What did engine diagnostics consist of? Did he check troublecodes? Did he view sensor data on a scanner?"
New User -
I think the technician got the codes off the engine. It was done at Pep Boys and I hadn't done my homework enough to demand the engine codes. He told me I needed to replace the TPS. I don't know if the car was hooked up to a scanner.
Douglas -
You can check the computer codes yourself and see what you find. Here is a link- Highlight, click edit, copy, and paste into your address bar.
1992 Toyota Corolla Fuel System Won't Start When stopped When cold
New User Asked -
car had been parked for at least one year due to
an alleged bad fuel pump.. turned over but wouldn't fire.
started by dropping fuel tank to inspect..(or at least my shade tree tech did).. verified power to pump. test was affirmative
but flow was negligible, replaced fuel pump, fuel pump strainer and filter. drained bad fuel and put 5 gallons of fresh gas and flushing additive.
cranked periodically to pressurize and fluch. would almost run but had to keep starter emgaged..
allowed to sit overnight to give additive time to work. replaced spark plugs.. attempted to crank in the a.m. still wouldn'[t fire.
jumpered ECM and ran current directly from battery
to fuel pump as repair manual suggested.. car fired and sustained idle.
what do you think is wrong? maybe a bad sensor?
faulty ignition switch?
oh and actually this car is a 92 geo prizm gsi same as a corolla but that should give you the engine which i believe is a 1.6. also has manual transmission.
my tech's idea of a fix is to put a permanent toggle switch to bypass ECM and manually apply power to the fuel pump. this sounds getto to me.
your thoughts?
Roger -
Hello, I wouldn't run a power by-pass through a toggle switch to the fuel pump.
What is the amount of dc voltage delivered to the fuel pump by the ECM?
Have you tested the fuel pressure? Did you change the fuel filter?
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
my tech says "pressure is low. hooked up a test light, and it was dim. the chiltons or haynes that
came with the car said if power is low coming from ECM that there is likely a short in the ECM."
yes, we changed the fuel filter and strainer already along with the pump.
Roger -
Do you have a wiring schematic? I'll need to see if the ECM is providing ground for a fuel pump relay to power the fuel pump.
A fuel pump relay will have a set of contacts. A year's time out of service could mean corroded contacts are causing undesired resistance which lowers the output voltage.
Have you located a fuel pump relay and substituted it by swapping it with one with like terminal pattern? Do the relay socket terminals look clean and fit the relay tightly? How many terminals in the fuel pump relay socket have 12 volts dc with the key on?
I'm going looking for a schematic,
Roger
New User -
did you get my response or did it get lost?
New User -
apparently all i wrote got lost. synopsis: checked relays and fuses. everything seems tight and right.
basically, Tim says he swapped the relays around three different ways. says he can hear the pump come on.
the question is... is there a hidden short? tim thinks short could be a burnt wire going to ignition switch..(based on observing that the car will try to run provided the ignition switch is in the start position) or hidden in the bundles connected to the ECM? this is why he doesn't support a swap of the ECM yet.. be fruitless to replace and then have it burn up from an unidentified short. this why he suggests the toggle until we verify this isn't the case. at least in the interim the car can be made run.
i was worried about overpressurization but a friend my told me there is a mechanical pressure regulator in the loop.
what has me asking others is that by his own admission diag'ing electrical is his least favorite task. also i like understand the problem more by talking it over with someone smarter than myself..(not hard to find within this particular line of work:))
Roger -
I read your response, it did not get lost.
I'm asking what the measured voltage that is sent from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump is? A dim test light says the voltage is low, but a meter tells the voltage. How many terminals in the fuel pump relay socket have 12 volts dc with the key on? (should be two)
Is the eighth character of your VIN a 5 or a 6?
Roger
New User -
good news roger! my tech found a fuse.. that he had previously inspected and it appeared good...but upon further examination it turned out to be just burnt enough to diminish voltage sufficiently to cause the problem. the car now runs and drives beautifully except for one minor issue.. and annoying exhaust chatter upon removing my foot from the accelorator.
want to hear what the weird minor issue is? it's also electrical. the running lights in the brake lenses light but a little dimly..then i push the brake pedal down... right light goes out completely while left light lights brightly..basically the brake light bulb in that one comes on along with the running light..somehow it results in complete dark in the pass side. strange huh?
eighth character in vin appears to be a "6".
Roger -
I was looking for voltage on two terminals of the fuel pump relay socket. If that were not the case then checking the fuses would have been the next step. I'm glad your tech found the fuse that was bad. The old fuel pump likely was the cause.
Please clarify your term "running lights". Are you referring to Daytime Running Lights (DTRLs) or what I would call Park Lights?
From the outset it sounds like a bad ground connection, a bulb that has poor/improper contact with the socket, an incorrect bulb has been installed, or a bad bulb socket. I'd look first at the right rear brake light bulb and socket.
Roger
New User -
me too..it was really tricky because he was telling
me he had already checked them. glad he wasn't too stubborn to check again. he got a little testy when
he felt i was going "behind" him and soliciting other opinions. but the way i look at is it's my investment and a toggle switch just didn't sound clean. it sure as hell wouldn't have gone over well with any perspective buyers either.
oh well, i stood my ground, he did his job and maybe now understand each other better and can recon a few more cars when this one is sold. all's well that ends well.
by running lights i meant tail lights. specifically the light in the rear that come on when you throw the switch for the headlamps..(one of which i had to replace in the almost dark last night. what a chore! the battery had to come out first.). they both operate dimly (taillights) until brake is applied and then pass side goes out and driver's side gets brighter."
btw i noticed positive terminal on battery connector had small gap around back half of pole..
didn't matter how tight i attempted to snug and in fact perhaps overtightening was the cause to begin with. do you think this warrants replacement?
Roger -
A mechanic that thinks you are going "behind his back" to solicit other opinions does not understand the rights of his customer. Especially if he ends up using the advice you found for him and gets to charge you money for "training" him! How narrow minded is that?
The suggestions I sent about the lights should apply.
If your battery connections are on a top post battery there may well be a gap on the cable end where the bolt and nut tighten the cable end onto the battery post. So long as the connection is clean and tight and cannot be rotated on the post you should be able to rely on the connection.
Will that do it for you?,
Roger
New User -
thanks. that should do it. i did use a "twisty scrubber" on the post and the inside of terminal.
i'll double check to make sure it can be twisted.
say next time i'm in BC wanna a cold beverage of your choice? once my 55 mpg diesel VW is operational
my wife and i plan to see some sites that way. i would love to learn more about how all parts came to be with this cool little tech support page your a part of.
Roger -
Thank you for your generous offer. However, I am near Oklahoma City in Oklahoma USA.
I have talked with All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, All-Parts.com on the telephone, but I have never met him. I stumbled onto this site when looking for auto parts and signed on to be a provider of answers to questions posted by customers. You can write to Mark at the link provided on All-Parts home page. He is a very nice man.
I retired after 30 years as a mechanic with a mix of aircraft (USAF), Dodge, Chevrolet, Range Rover, Saab, Sterling, and Cadillac dealership experience. As dealers trade for vehicles nearly every brand shows up in your stall for repair. As a hobby I continue to use my skills by participating here. Makes me think, makes me read.
Thank you for this opportunity to serve you. To accept my answer so that I may be paid, please click on the "OK TO PAY MECHANIC" button.
When the car is idling there is a small clicking noise coming from the left side, or somewhere under the valve cover it has been clicking for two years, never gotten any louder or quieter. also the car cannot pass emissions. and was wondering if there could be a valve problem related to the clicking noise that is making it fail emissions. I put my finger in the end of the muffler and there was a thin layer of black sludge, but no smell of oil.
Bruce Kit -
The clicking noise could be a sticking valve or possibly a slightly bad exhaust valve.
Your car failing emissions tests, would also agree with this.The black sooty stuff in the tailpipe is an indication of unburned gas, a good reason you are failing emissions.
The first thing for you to do is a compression test to see if one cylinder is low.
New User -
never done a comp test before, could you give me a quick step by step instruction, for how to get started on the test? thank you !!
Bruce Kit -
Mark plug wires, as to location.
Remove plugs.
Get a 'screw in' type tester.
Screw in till snug.
Crank engine about 5 or 6 revolutions
Read compression on guage.
150 psi good all should be within 10 psi of each other.
Release pressure on guage, do next one.
New plugs a good idea.
Does not blow out heat or ANY air for that matter. Heat comes through the vents when the car is MOVING, but nothing when it's just idling. I've been told that it could be the blower motor, a stuck thermostat, heater switch, etc.
Vinny -
I take it that when you turn on the fan control switch you don't hear the blower fan motor spinning at all. If not do you have at your disposal an Ohm meter? If so, with the fan blower switch set to "High", disconnect the lead going to the fan blower motor. Set the Ohm meter to read 30 volts DC and confirm that you have power going to the motor. If you don't read any voltage going to the motor then check your fuses to see if the fan motor fuse has blown out.
If you have voltage then your blower motor is the culprit and needs to be changed out. I hope this helps.
Vinny -
If you are satisfied with the answer you received from me, please - Click "OK" to finish and end your question.
Sometime it will not start no matter what I do. Then if I leave it for a while it start untill some other time when it does it again. I have replaced the starter and battery and still have the problem. Its the only problem I have ever have. I have had this problem for several years now.
Roger -
Hello, You stated you have replaced both the battery and the starter....
When the car won't start what happens? Will the starter turn the engine but the engine will not start? Or, does the starter fail to come on at all? Auto or manual transmission?
Thanks,
Roger
shelly26 -
It is automatic. When it wont start there is a clicking sound from the starter as if it is bad. Replaced starter twice - first time I replaced the starter I had to take it back because I thought they had given me a bad starter. They replaced it with another - same problem. It normally starts and run ok, but then it would sudenly just click and not start. If I leave it for a while it just start first time and continue doing so untill some other time when it fails to start. It does this hot or cold, whenever.
Roger -
To begin I would try to move the shift lever to Neutral when the condition is present and see if it will start in Neutral.
This would address the possibility that the neutral safety switch could have a problem.
Look at the battery cables for condition. Are they clean at both ends, are they tight at both ends, is corrosion present inside the insulation sleeve of the cable? Ground wire connections are critical to high amp current flow.
It takes amps to turn a starter motor. You are hearing a click that indicates the volts are energizing something...probably a relay. The starter relay itself could be suspect as could be connections at the ignition electrical switch.
Roger
shelly26 -
All that has been checked. I have had several places checked it out including PEP Boys and Sears Auto.
Roger -
Did these shops duplicate the complaint? Are the mechanics ASE Certified? Someone will have to try something new when the condition is present.
Roger
shelly26 -
I suppose the answer to those questions is yes - I would not know about their certification however but I belive so.
Roger -
Certification speaks of a self commitment to excellence in service.
If the condition was duplicated but they did not fix it the shop should recheck their efforts and stand behind their work.
Will they help you?
Are you equipped to diagnose some circuits?
Roger
Roger -
Has this car been fixed? Please update.
Thanks,
Roger
shelly26 -
No
Roger -
Do you have a dc volt meter or a test light? If you would like a wiring diagram for the starting circuit please advise your email address.
1990 Toyota Corolla Ignition System Won't Start When starting When warm
New User Asked -
I have a 1990 dx corolla that will start everytime when cold. After driving a while and the engine is hot, on trying to start after a short stop, the starter will just click. I ahve replaced the starter twice thinking it was a bad starter. It still will not start when hot. If I leave it for an hour or so "to cool down" it will start with no problem. All electrics seem to function well. The engine does seem to be overheating, not to redline, on seems to happen when this occurs. I have replaced the water pump and the radiator and still seem to have the overheating problem. Thanks for any advice
macconeck -
First check your batt connections and cables for corrosion If all is well and good, When your car gets hot and in a non start position try to jump start it.
If that gets it going then have your battery
load tested at an auto parts store. you probly have a dead cell.
hope this helps
Macconneck
New User -
Thank you for your reply, I will try that. I was also thinking that it maybe the starter that is overheating as the original part supposedly has a heat shield and the one I have in there now is an aftermarket part. have you heard of this being a problem?
Steve
macconeck -
No I Do not think the stater would overheat to that degree because of a missing heat shield No Way
The problem has to exist elsewhere
It is still a slight possibility that you have another bad starter and that is why you want to do a starter load test before you pull it again
Macconneck
1989 Toyota Corolla Engine Overheating When driving When warm
New User Asked -
Hello, my name is Andrew. I have an engine that over heated twice, I refilled the radiator and it over heated again with white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. I asume a head gasket is shot. My question is; with the engine being Al, do you think the head or engine block warpped? is there any kind of head gasket that can be used that will compensate for a warpped head? What are your suggestions regarding how I should pursue working on this engine. Thank You.
encsisme -
You have to remove the head to change the head gasket. While the head is off you have to inspect the head for cracks in addition to warpage. If there are no cracks take the head to a machine shop and for about 50.00 they will mill it true again. You also should check the block for warpage. There are no shortcuts to this repair. Good luck. Al
1989 Toyota Corolla Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving No pattern
New User Asked -
hello --
Recently the battery/Brake light has lit up on the dashboard intermitently. Last night, as i was driving home, when i flipped the turn signal on, the radio went off, and then it came back on when i turned off the turn signal. the dashboard lights and headlights were dim. this morning, the lights on the interior of the car came on, but the car had no juice and wouldn't start. is this a battery problem, or an alternator problem? or something else?
thanks very much.
Roger -
Hello, Most likely the alternator has failed and you were operating on the reserve power of the battery until it ran down.
Most national auto parts chain stores will test your alternator and/or battery for free. Can you remove the alternator and take it in for a free test? If it has failed your old alternator will serve as the core for the replacement and you won't have to make a second trip for a core refund.
1989 Toyota Corolla Engine Won't Start When stopped When cold
New User Asked -
1. my corolla doesn't start when its cold, its just clicks and nothing
2. previously it would start after a few trys. on those occasions had to accelerate while turning the key because it would turn over and stop othewise.
3. starts fine when its been running a while
4. i can push start it,
5. cannot jump-lead start it,
6. had the started tested, its fine
any ideas would be very gratefully received
thanks
saleem
Douglas -
Are you saying the starter does not spin/crank the engine over?
Or the starter spins the engine over but the engine does not start?
New User -
hi douglas, thanks for replying, when the car is cold and i turn the ignition i just hear a loud clicking and nothing else happens, so the car doesn't start. when the car has been running a while( after push starting it ) i can turn it off and it starts again fine.
thanks
saleem
Douglas -
You need to make sure your battery is capable of starting the engine when cold. Turn the headlights on when engine is cold. Also turn the heater on high along with the radio. Are the headlights reasonably bright? Does the heater fan sound strong? Does the radio sound normal?
You said the starter was tested. What did this test consist of?
Double check connections at battery and starter. If the battery checks out okay, it sounds like the starter is not functioning cold.
New User -
battery checked out at around 12 Volts, even tried with jump leads to get it up to around 14 volts.
the starter is second hand tested at the dismantlers by connecting directly to battery, worked fine.
the only thing left is to take the starter out and test it again or test the connection between the battery and the starter, both things i don't know how to do. any suggestions ?
Douglas -
Many autoparts stores will come out to your car and test the circuit (advance auto, autozone, etc). Call ahead.
BTW- they do this for free.
1989 Toyota Corolla Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
New User Asked -
Brake lights not working, having trouble dx'ing problem. 1st: fuse replaced, worked for a couple of weeks. 2nd: circuit boards in back light assembly replaced, worked for a day? or so. 3rd: brake light switch under brake pedal replaced, worked for a couple of weeks. Something is shorting everything out. There is some corrosion/rust/small open area in trunk, could anything be vulnerable to rain/water getting in? Any logical places to start looking for short? Mechanic has previously suggested replacing entire light assembly in back, this is costly and doesn't seem to me to address the problem of the short.??
Douglas -
The most logical place to start is at the brake light sockets and connectors. Inspect for any melting, corrosion or rub throughs. Also, if the brake lights work most of the time- hold the brake down and start wiggling the wiring (start close to the brake lights themselves) and see if the wiggling causes the fuse to blow. This method will sometimes help isolate the short.
Sometimes people will install a circuit breaker in place of the fuse when they cannot find the short. This way it'll reset whenever the short is not present. The reason not to use this method is you'll not have brake lights whenever the short is present and that can be a serious hazard.
Also , laying ackwardly, press and release the brake pedal while looking up at the brake switches to see if there is any spark from the short. Hold the brake down and wiggle the wires there...
I would assume any bad bulbs have been replaced at this point and a problem with the bulbs has been ruled out.
New User -
not a bulb problem, and corrosion in the sockets has been addressed. could it be a grounding issue? the brake light switch was replaced already, so something must be blowing that, since it worked for a while, then lights went out again...
will suggest the circuit breaker thing to mechanic...
Douglas -
It could be a ground problem. I would have him try the 'wiggle' test. In addition to the wiggle test, have him push up and down on the rear corners of the car to see if this recreates the short. A mist of salt water may help find it also.
1989 Toyota Corolla Fuel System Hesitating When accelerating Always
New User Asked -
my 1989 toyota corolla dx 1.6 liter hesitates, jerks, and sometimes hisses from the carburetor when i accelerate hard from a standstill on level ground and when accelerating up a hill. once my speed is up to 60 or 70 it runs great. i have changed the fuel filter and air filter. other than this ir runs like a sewing machine. could this be a fuel pump problem?
Douglas -
What about ignition components? Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Also inpsect the coil tower for corrosion.
BTW- Does this car have the 1.6 MFI (fuel injected engine)?
Any smoke from the exhaust on acceleration? If yes, what color is it?
New User -
the 1989 corolla is carbureted. i have not noticed any smoke coming from the car. it only hesitates when i press the gas pedal hard to go fast or accelerate uphill. if i ease into acceleration it does fine. i have changed the distributor and rotor.
Douglas -
It may be necessary to check the fuel pressure with a gauge, but first I'd check the spark plug wires.
2nd attempt..I have 1989 Corolla, 1.6L 4AF (2bbl carb)auto trans 116,000 miles. Had the head gasket and carb replaced, supposedly sent head out to ???(ck?)
Has a knock, cold & warm, better warm. Idle & accel( & cruise but not as noticeable). Tech told me its cam noise and "normal". Does not sound hard enough to be a rod bearing. ALSO..it has great compression but smokes (burning oil), smoke ALOT after it idles for a few minutes..maybe valve seals?
macconeck -
What color is the smoke as best you can tell is it black or blue?
bsquared -
Blue, it is not fuel and I have added 3qts of oil in the last 2000 miles. Smoke seems to linger like oil, not disipate like vapor. Not black like fuel (carb is reman and I get 30mpg city).
macconeck -
Blue I agree is definately is the color of oil.
Using a quart of oil every 1,000 miles is highly unusual for a rebuilt engine.
the valve guides and piston rings. If the valve guides are worn, or if there's too much clearance between the valve stems and guides, or if the valve guide seals are worn, cracked, missing, broken or improperly installed, the engine will suck oil down the guides and into the cylinders. The engine may still have good compression, but will use a lot of oil.
Oil burning can also occur if the cylinders in a newly rebuilt engine are not honed properly (too rough or too smooth), or if the rings are installed upside down, twisted onto the pistons, or the end gaps are too large or are not staggered to reduce blowby.
If the engine is using oil because of worn valve guides or valve guide seals, it is possible to replace just the valve guide seals without having to remove the cylinder heads or overhaul the engine.
If as you say the compression in all cylinders are equal, My guess would be the valve seals were not replaced, at least not correctly.
I hope this helps
bsquared -
It dos help. But engine was not rebuilt. Head was puled for a blown gasket, sent out to supposedly be checked. So I feel it is in the valves as well. But have you any knowledge of what might cause a knocking noise from the cam that could be called normal?
macconeck -
Some vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3-valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibit a ticking and/or knocking noise after reaching normal operating temperature. The noise may be described as "ticks", "taps", "knocks", or "thumps". In some cases the noise may be a normal characteristic of these engines.
There is no such normal knocking of the camfor your engine, unless of course you had a race car I mean before the rebuild it was not knocking is this correct?
It should be running much better than before the rebuild.
bsquared -
You have me confused with somepone. I have the 1989 Corolla!!! Please read and try again
macconeck -
No I have the right information.
You aske me "But have you any knowledge of what might cause a knocking noise from the cam that could be called normal?"
My replie was.
There is no such normal knocking of the cam for your engine.
before the replacement of the head, there was no knocking of your engine so why should it be acceptable now when all you did was repair the head.
It is a 1989 Toyotal Corolla All Trac 4 WD wagon. The Brake lights stay on all the time. The only way to turn them off is remove the fuse. The fuse is good. I replaced all the bulbs (two brake/tail lights and the one brake light on the hatchback door). Is there a relay switch soemwhere that works off the brake pedal? Many thanks.
Bruce Kit -
The switch is located above the brake pedal, on the arm, It is a plunger type that is adjustable. Quite simple actually. It may be even unplugged. It is usually a two wire plug
This'll be an easy one for you I'm sure. Got a Toyota corolla All-Track and the starter is going finally. Decided to change it myself and I can't even find the thing. I know it's attached to the transmission, but what's the best way to get to it since I'm guessing it's in the middle of everything. I even jacked the car up and couldn't see it from the bottom. There's too many other things in the way.
Douglas -
Hello,
The first step is to disconnect the battery cables, starting with the negative. The next thing is safely support the vehicle, NEVER get under a vehicle that only supported with a jack (jacks fail, not worth any risk)!
Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-
The link will take you to an online repair guide for your car. If the link doesn't work, visit autozone.com and click on 'Vehicle Repair Guides' (the free ones). Please follow all safety precautions!
I HAVE A 1988 TOYOTA COROLLA SR5 THAT IS STORED
DURING THE WINTER MONTHS IN MINNESOTA. THE AC
WORKED LAST FALL UPON STORAGE BUT THIS SPRING THE AC WILL NOT WORK AT ALL. THE AC BUTTON LIGHTS UP, BUT THE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT ENGAGE AT ALL. IT SEEMS SO WEIRD THAT IT WORKED FINE LAST FALL, AND NOW IT WILL NOT ENGAGE AT ALL. I AM NOT CONVINCED IT IS THE COMPRESSOR, I THOUGHT POSSIBLY A CONNECTION WAS BAD OR SOME RELAY IS BAD. ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR TROUBLESHOOTING THIS PROBLEM???
Douglas -
What you'll need to do is test for power to compressor using a test light or voltmeter while the A/C is turned on. If you have no power, check fuses, but chances are the refrigerant has leaked out. The refrigerant is 'carried' around the A/C system by oil. The oil is used to lubricate the system. If the compressor runs while there is no regrigerant charge (+oil) in the system it would be destroyed just as if you ran the engine without oil. For this reason the system has a low pressure cutoff switch that will not allow the compressor to run while the pressure is low, as this indicates the system is to low on oil and refrigerant.
FYI- Most cars nowadays activate the A/C whenever defrost is selected on the heater for two reasons. First because the A/C removes moisture. Secondly to circulate the refrigerant charge around to keep seals/etc lubricated to help prevent them from drying which leads to leaks.
Let me know if you have power (battery positive) to the compressor.
New User -
What you are saying makes sense. This car is in excellent condition for the year that it is, however,
because of the age, it has the old AC system, where one has to use the refrigerant that one cannot purchase anymore, and also,it does not run the ac when the defrost is turned on, so it is probably a leakage. Do you have any idea what the cost would be to convert this particular car so it can use the new type of refrigerant? The engine is a 4AF 1.6, and it is not fuel injected but has a carbureator. Thanks for your help.
Douglas -
Well, there are a few ways to do it. The least expensive method, which I'm guessing will not be the option you'd desire, is to have the old refrigerant evacuated (requires professional equip.) Then determine the cause of the leak and repair (cost obviously can vary as the leak could be anywhere). Then simply recharge the system and hope it lasts. Rough estimate, $75-125 without major component replacement (which would include the condensor, evaporator, compressor, etc). This price could also be much higher if labor rates are expensive in your area, around here the hourly rate is $30-45 per hour.
To have a shop retrofit the car to use R134, I'd rougly estimate $200-325. This price would not include repairing the leak unless it was a minor seal.
Air conditioning systems still develope more than their fair share of leaks even when operated in the off season. Still, it is recommended to operate the A/C periodically in the off season as preventative maint.
While my first guess is that you have developed a leak, it is just that only a guess. Be sure to perform diagnostics first. If power is gone it could be as simple as a fuse.
Remember to remove and replace one spark plug at a time to avoid getting the spark plug (common called ignition) wires mixed up. Use die electric grease on the ends of spark plugs to keep the boots from freezing up. Gap the spark plugs with a spark plug gapper (the specifications will on your underhood emissions and tune-up sticker).
Any questions or problems, please ask.
New User -
There is a plate over the spark plugs with openings too-small to insert a ratchet. Should I remove the cover? Will this destroy a gaskette?
Douglas -
You never know if the gasket will come off intact or not, it may need replacing.
Which engine do you have?
New User -
Don't know what engine. I have lost owners manual. 4 door sedan.
New User -
Engine is 1600 4AF
New User -
Opening to spark plugs is less than 1" diameter, and seems too small for standard spark plug wrench. Is there a special tool I need to change plugs and what is it called?
-
Hi,
Here are the steps to replace the spark plug:
1) Remove your spark plug boot from cylynder number one(the cylinder close to engine front/timing belt by turning the rubber boot left /right several times and pulling upward position.
2) Once the boot it is out place your spark plug socket -5/8 " or 13/16 " over the spark plug(spark plug it is in the hole where the rubber boot came out.
3) Loose your spark plug thread by turning to left or counterclock position(the thread it is right hand )
4) Once your spak plug it is out install a a new spark plug.
Installation
It is a good ideea to buy NGK type spark plugs recommended for japanese automobiles and the spark plug gap it is adjusted already.
a) Find a rubber hose 3/8",-and 6" long,and place your spark plug,upper side -ceramic top- into rubber to be tight.
b) Put your spark plug into the hole where it came out.Be carefull not to damage your spark plug gap(by closing it when touching cylinder head)and start turning slowly to the right to thread in the spark plug.This procedure will help you not to damage the spark plug thread or "cross thread damage" known in mechanical terms.
c) Once you turn several time you can install the spark plug socket to thight the spark plug as recommended.You can feel it when it is tight.Don't overtight,cylinder head it is aluminium material.
d) Install the spark plug boot.
e) Continue the job on the other cylinders.
Good luck to you.
Best regards,
Peter
ps: Auto technician for over 30 years.
New User -
Thanks. The problem was that I had the wrong size spark plugs (parts store error), and the spark plug wrench for those plugs was too large too fit in the opening for the plugs. Thanks anyway.
At times in the humid 85 degrees, and after driving awhile then being shut off, turning the key in the ignition switch makes no sound at all, and it won't start, even though the battery is new and lights potentially fully bright. I must wait hours for it to cool down before the ignition switch will function and the car will start again.
Douglas -
Hello,
My internet disconnected and first reply was lost, trying again.
When the problem occurs do lose the dash lights/etc OR just starter function?
If you just lose the starter you need to check for power on the small wire to the starter when the problem is present. Do this when:
In park/neutral.
The small wire disconnected.
Wheels blocked.
Use caution not to allow the wire to short out to ground, including the test wires.
Stay clear of hot engine parts and potential moving engine parts.
You’ll need a helper or long test leads to check for power using a test light or multimeter set to DC volts.
If you would like a wiring diagram to completely test the circuitry leave your email address and I’ll send it.
Whenever you experience electrical failure; check battery terminals/cables, grounds and fuses (corrosion or terminal damage).
Give me an update and we'll continue as necessary.
Have a 1988 Toyota Corolla Wagon I believe its a DX
model. Cut down no elaborate extras. Automatic w/AC.
Car belonged to my mother who is now deceased. I keep
for the sentiment. Car only has about 114,000 miles and has run well in the past. I have spent lots on this car, much more than its worth and I'm at the
point do I continue to spend hundreds of dollars on a
car thats worth about $600.00. Anyway it doesn't get
driven much and is stored outside in all weather conditions. I'm starting to think this is much of the
problem. The car has a 1.6 liter engine and has had the carburetor rebuilt at the dealer about 2002. Which may not be significant since its not driven much (maybe 800-1000 miles a yr.)I can start the car
after much effort because these are cold natured cars
when allowed to sit long periods. Car will idle but will not take the fuel after hitting acelerator pedal.
Just dies and cuts off. I noticed the last time I drove it that it would act like it was going along okay then you'd hear it act like it lost power and immediately pickup again causing the engine to make
a loud clunking noise and lunge forward like it momentarily lost fuel and then found it. What do you think? Fuel Filter I don't think has been changed since I've had it either. Don't remember putting one
on. Maybe old gas? I don't think so but anyway whats
your best guess?
Bruce Kit -
Yes a bad filter might be the cause as the fuel is probably getting a bit 'gunky'from little use.If it were my car, I would clean out the inside of the fuel tank and lines and replace the filter.Also take a look at the fuel pump.If origional, it may be a good idea to replace it.
For future long term storage you might consider adding 'fuel stabalizer'to the gas.
It is readily avail at most parts stores.
The car is simple to work on and usually dependable.Sentiment ok !
New User -
Bruce,
Thank-you for the response on my Toyota Corolla. I have pretty much figured it is a fuel problem, but as far as real old gas I don't think is the bulk of the
problem. I was filled up only maybe 2-3 mos. ago.
Is that to long for gas to set up? I really don't want to drain the fuel tank if possible and the fuel stabilizer is a good idea. I hadn't thought about that. Could it work to help my problem without draining the tank? Fuel filter is a definite place to start and possibly a cheap fix. Do you know where the fuel filter is mounted on this car? Is it an in-line type? Might help me find it if I knew what type was used.
Thanks again
Best Regards,
Vickie James
Bruce Kit -
2-3 months is borderline.Filling with new gas helpful.Additive might
Inline filter yes.Check firewall behind motor...poss line under
1986 Toyota Corolla Engine Smelling When driving When warm
New User Asked -
I just had my car timed but now it seems slower, and difficult to get speed up, like my car is trying to pass gas and can't. Also the smell of the car when I start it up and especially turn it off, its fumes smell the inside and outside of the car. I checked the transmission fluid and its not burned. The oil seems to burn quickly, needing a quart every two weeks. Please help.
Roger -
Did you have the timing belt replaced or just the ignition timing set? Was a tune-up done also? Do you have recourse with the person/shop that set the timing for you?
I have a 1986 Corolla GTS. The car has no power off idle and will not accelerate. I have checked the timing, replaced the distributor, distributor cap and rotor, plugs & wires, and the fuel filter
Bruce Kit -
Spark, timing fuel, all ok. You have dealt with the air etc going in, but not going out. If I had to guess. I would say that the catalytic converter is partially plugged, which is common, especially if orig. cat.Even if it has been replaced , they do get plugged up.
New User -
I cut off the exhaust to bypass the cat, and the problem is still there. Any other ideas?
Bruce Kit -
Air filter comes to mind as you did not mention it in your list.Have you done a compression tet?You checked the timing, but it may be a good idea to check the timing belt.
We have a 1985 toyota corolla, always used to run great. My daughter left the oil cap off and now it seems to stall when accelerating, but it idles well. It's using lots of fuel and blowing black smoke. When it accelerates, there is a slight ping. The choke is fine. I had a mechanic clean the carb, which helped a little bit for a short while, but is right back to where we started. What do you suggest?
Douglas -
Blowing black smoke is a sure sign of a rich condition from to much fuel. The carburetor is probably flooding over. You will likely need to have the carburetor rebuilt or replaced. If the fuel filter was overdue for replacement, debris may have reentered the carb, causing a repeat of the problem. You will want an older mechanic for this job, as most younger guys have little if any experience with them. The external scenario is if the choke is closing when you accelerate the engine.
The spark plugs will need to be cleaned real well or replaced once the rich condition is remedied. Continuing to drive like this will, at some point, ruin the catalytic converter.
FYI- Blue smoke is from oil and white is from coolant.
1983 Toyota Corolla Electrical / Lighting Systems Happens always
New User Asked -
I can't seem to make the "battery light" or the "brake light" go away. I have a new battery and my brakes have been done. I've checked all my fuses but the lights still won't go out. Without having to pay 75 bucks for a diagnostic test, do you have any ideas?
New User -
The brake is in the middle console. Seems like we've done all that.(except check the altenator) We've even gone as far as to pull the engine relay fuse to see if that was part of the problem. Course when I called Toyota to ask about the fuse, they just wanted me to bring the car in instead of selling me a new fuse.
encsisme -
I will assume we have gotten the right direction with the Alternator. Now to the brake light... can you remove the fill cap from the brake fluid resivoiour and see if by moving the float up and down if the light will go out on the dash... also is the E brake on the floor or the center console? If on the floor, check the little switch that is actuated when the pedal is pushed down and see that it is plugged in.. let me know.. we can go from there. Al
encsisme -
There are 2 things that may cause these lights to come on and stay on. For the battery light; I understand the battery was replaced but was the alternator tested??? This can be done for free at most Auto parts places... you may have a diode that has failed and still be making 14.2 volts. For the brake light, have you verified the level of the fluid is full and is the switch for the emergency connected or is the E brake fully disengaged?? We can discuss these problems in more detail if you need to. Let me know. Al
New User -
Hi Al. Thanks for answering my question. I will have the altenator tested first chance I get. The brake fluid was checked and is ok. Also, the emergency brake was fully disengaged and the light still won't go off.
New User -
Hi. It was the altenator!! Thanks!!!
encsisme -
Did this fix both the brake and Alt light problem?? I know it will fix the Alt but cant find where the connection is for the brake light.. let me know so I will stop following wiring schematics.. thanks.. Al
encsisme -
I got your email telling me the problem was in the Alternator. Did that fix both the alternator and brake lite issue?? Al
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