Toyota Land Cruiser

2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Hello, 2000 Land cruiser that is having electrical Issues. Turn signals dont work, wipers dont work, Guages dont light up and dont work, Rear and front lights work, Rear Brake lights work, Door locks work, AC works . What is wrong ?

Hello, Do you have a wiring diagram for this vehicle? Has any work been done recently that would have disconnected a ground connection? Are fuses all good? Did all these systems quit at the same time?

Please advise,

Roger

No work has been done to the vehicle. It all stopped working at the same time. 2000 Toyota Landcruiser and experiencing multiple electrical problems with turn signals, Gauges,Wipers,Radio

Rear Brake lights work, Front Lights work, Door Locks Work,AC works

The effected systems have a common ground. There is a ground wire junction connector taped to a wire harness behind the upper right side of the dash. Several Lt Blu wires plug into this junction connection.

If you can locate it one should look for a loose connection, broken wire, corrosion, etc.

From there one of the LT BLU wires will run to the left kick panel junction block where it changes to a Wht/Blk wire color that runs to and bolts down under the driver's seat.

Will you please check the ground circuits for a problem? I feel like a power source is not the problem as these systems have different fuses.

I'll check back with you in the morning. It is bedtime here.

Roger

Please update. Have you found a ground problem for the effected circuits?

Roger

Bad ground !! Thanks so much !!! WOoo hoo

1993 Toyota Land Cruiser Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Driver door is stuck in lock position, the electical systems seems to trigger but won't unlock/open. All other door locks working. How can I open door to remove door panel to determine what's wrong?

Sometimes the door panel can be removed with the door still closed, although there is an increased risk of damage during removal.

With special tools you reach through the window area to release the lock. You'd almost have to remove the passengers door panel to get an accurate visual of how the lock functions so you can attempt to free up the drivers side (whether this is by spraying, or finding the lock linkage and moving it, etc).

Another trick that may work is by using the key and the electric lock at the same time. Keep repeating and try the handle (allow the handle to snap back after each attempt, don't gently release).

1992 Toyota Land Cruiser Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  No pattern

We bought a 92 fj80 that had an intermittent electrical glich involving the ignition, security system, alarm clock,dome lights and radio. After a quick search I noticed a 20 amp fuse had been placed in the circuit. I had it checked for a ground issue but found nothing. Replaced fuse, worked fine. Today after a 30 ml round trip, and an hour in the grocery store, I restarted to find the alternator light, a.t. temp light, and the brake lights illuminated. The gauge had dropped to half and slowly continued to drop. Now battery is dying. Dont want to replace alternator if this is a serious ground issue. But ?? Have you heard of anything like this? Any thoughts. Thanks Mark

The charge gauge dropped? If yes you should remove the alternator and take it to a local parts store that offers free testing off the vehicle. Some stores (Autozone and Advance) usually offer free battery charging too. These stores will also check the charging system if you drive your vehicle in (free also). Let me know what you find.

1985 Toyota Land Cruiser Engine Hesitating When driving Always

It is the EGR system.
Disconnecting the EGR makes the problem go away.
I tried a different round vacuum thing (maybe some kind of distribution thing) from a known good system; no change in problem. Checked the VSV, and solenoid seems to function properly, the (I think E,F,G connections) switched properly, and the OHMs resistance seemed within spec.

The EGR valve was replaced in '97; it seems to pass a test to see if it holds vacuum, and it does.

The EGR seems to engage when I accelerate past idle, and runs poorly until between 2k and 25k RPM.

I really want the thing to work ccorrectly, as not only do I want less emmissions, I get 14mpg when the EGR is connected, and 10.38 MPG when I disconnect the control hose.

The egr may be wore and open to easily. Any chance the replacement is still under warranty. Maybe you could borrow the egr valve from the 'known good system' to confirm.