Toyota Pick Up

2007 Toyota Pick Up Engine Won't Start Happens always Always

fuel pressure OK at feed rail but doesn't reach injectors, engine runs on starting fluid but nothotherwise

are injectors pulsing-do you have fire cat the spark plug - what kind of fuel pressure - 4 cyl or v6 need more info

are you there

1994 Toyota Pick Up Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

engine may turn over sereral times before it starts, other times it fires right away. Occasionally it will not start no matter how long I let it turn over. Taking the key out then putting it back in helps when it won't fire after a reasonable amount of time. Also on more than one occasion after getting it started the truck has no power. It's like there's a huge parachute open behind me bogging me down.

best place to start on determining your problem would be the fuel delivery sytem... You could be experiencing clogged injectors,fuel filter or even a weak fuel pump. All of these problems will have an effect on your computer conrols and may cause your computer to over compensate by trying to supply extra gas which would make the truck run rich. That in turn can cause damage to your Catalytic Converter. Best advice for you would be to have a reputable auto Tech have a look at the truck. If I can assist you any further you can contact me at [redacted] upon acceptance of this response.... Good luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

Walt
Thanks I hadn't concidered all that. I just got the truck back this week from having a remanufactured long block,timing components and an oil pump installed because it was very low on compression and using oil real bad. I really thought that would solve my problem. Replaced the cluch, pressure plate, water pump and starter in addition to that. I know that the fuel filter and the fuel line running from it were replaced a short time before that. I'll tell the guy who's working on it for me what you said about the injectors and the fuel pump. He's thinking it's in the ignition system, maybe the distributer in particular. What do you think about that possility? could it be that it's not firing right all the time?

Normally most ignition problems tend to create a miss (I say normally because I have been suprised before) and the vehicle bucks and jerks. If you trust the person who is working on your truck then let him check all that he needs to, but when he does tell you what he thinks it is have him tell you why. Normally(again that word)when a vehicle fails to respond to acceleration and is sluggish (your parachute) more times than not problem is in the air/fuel system.. does your mechanic have a way to test your air flow meter(just a thought)

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1994 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

It's an old rattle trap but I was going to try to change the spark plugs and see if that helps (because the battery turns the engine over strong, just won't ignite), but I can't figure out where they are... could someone tell me how to get to the sparkplugs on this truck? Thanks very much, :D

Hello, Please tell me what engine you have? Fuel injected? Have you had this truck awhile and do you know if it has had the timing chain replaced? How many miles on the engine?

Please advise,

Roger

i bought it two years ago and it is pretty junky. I'm sure it's not fuel injected, there's nothing fancy on it at all.

Even if I could find where the spark plugs are, do you think I could replace them successfully myself?

it's not worth doing a timing chain on and i doubt if anybody did.

Yes, you could replace the spark plugs yourself.

I still need to know the size engine?

Look at the passenger side of the engine. Do you see a distributor cap with five thick wires that come out of the top and go up to the engine head? (four of them go to spark plugs, the center wire goes to the coil)

Twist the outer rubber boot at the engine end of the wire so that it will rotate on the spark plug and then pull on the outer boot until it comes loose from the spark plug that it is connected to.

Using the correct size spark plug socket, remove the spark plug. Inspect it for condition. Compare it to the new one for length. Set the plug gap to specifications. Install and tighten the new spark plug and reconnect the plug wire. DO NOT let the socket get cocked as you tighten the spark plug or it will crack/break the spark plug. Do not overtighten.

If the new spark plug has a washer on it tighten until just snug, then 1/4 turn. If no washer, tighten to snug plus no more than 1/8 turn.

I recommend you replace the spark plugs one at a time so you won't get plug wires crossed to the wrong plug.

If you choose to afford the expense you may want to replace the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires as well.

You must install the distributor cap and plug wires in the exact configuration as the old one. The cap is indexed to only go on the distributor one way. The order/position of the wires is critical and must duplicate the original set up so the engine will start. A digital picture of the original set up would be helpful as a guide.

Match the longest new wire to the longest old wire length and match the remaining wires in like manner.

Once the distributor cap is removed you'll see the rotor and it just pulls off. It is indexed to the shaft it sets on so install the new one pointing the same direction and push it down until seated.

Will that do it?,

Roger

HI: I don't know the size of the engine - if you mean cylinders, it's a 4 cylinder, and the title says the truck weighs 2870.

You have definitely given me $5.00 worth of information, so i will expedite the payment.

Any more hints or information you can provide would be wonderful. Thank you very much.

Aloha, :D
[redacted]

1994 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System Stalling Happens sometimes Always

1994 pickup with 22RE engine- had muffler replaced at shop- drove for 20 miles and parked. when I went to start it a few hours later it would start rough a few times then ran fine. drove it 20 more miles stopping a couple places started and ran fine. Now it starts and runs usually 20 seconds, occasionally a few minutes. fuel filter changed, fuel pressure is about 40 psi when cranking or running ( when it does stay running) then very rapidly drops fuel pressure and kills the motor. In the diagnostic port I had power @ FP terminal (I believe) while I had fuel pressure then would drop power out and drop fuel pressure. Ideas? I don't think it's related to the new muffler, but I'm giving all the details of my misadventures.

Check the fuel pressure relay. If you have a matching relay (likely) swap them and you'll quickly know if the relay is the problem, or not.

1994 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Daughter drove truck to school when she got ready to leave, it would not start. She said she tried to jump it off. I went to lok at it and when you turned the key to the on postion nothing happened, no power comming through the ignition, lights in dash did not come on, no power to radio, fan blower, wipers nothing. The head lights came on but were dim. I put a new battery in it, still no power when you turn the key switch. Had not had any problems prior to this.

You will need to check the main batt cables
the ground to the chasis and the main hot to the starter
It sounds like a very bad connection to me

1994 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

blower motor just quit working ac light wont come on either.blower works fine when wired to the battery replaced fuses checked all connections replaced relay by the 30 and 10 amp fuses behind glove box checking switch right now have continuity between little prong lower right and big prong upper left with thw switch in the first on position have continuity between lower right little prong and lower left prong in the #2 on position have cont between little r and 2little left prong in the 3 on position have cont between little r and big upper right in high fan position does the switch sound like it is working properly?and if it is any other suggestions?

Under the dash, behind the glovebox, attached to the heater plenum is the blower resistor.It is a series of three resistors that control the fans different speeds. The switch just controls the selection of the resistor, which in turn gives fan speeds. It is located in the plenum because it gets hot, the moving air cools it.
The switch is easy to replace, a couple of screws, and the plug.

i pulled the resistor out and checked continuity between all 4 prongs and all have cont what next?

I believe that Toyota also uses a Relay that is also behind the Glovebox on the right.If that is not it, you will have to starrt tracing wires one at a time.Although you have continuity at switch, you still req. 12 volts, that would be the wire to start (or just replace)

1994 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

My daughter took her pickup to a garage to have a new gas tank put in. They took it out and said she also needed a sending unit. I;m now having someone else do the work but can't find a listing for "sending unit." Is the sending unit the same thing as the fuel pump, or is there more to it? Thanks

The sending unit is attached to the fuel pump im the tank. It has a variable switch attached to an arm, which in turn is attached to a float. It is what tells the fuel guage the correct reading.
It is not part of the pump when purchasing it, as it is bought separate.

1994 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

engine shut off while driving(22re)upon trying to restart,the engine cranks, belts and pulleys turn but the distributer/rotor does not turn nor will the engine start

Hello
Timing belt may have broke or the pin in the pulley that the timing belt sheared.
Heavychevy

/

Just doing a follow up to check on the progress of your pick up.
Heavychevy

1994 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have lost the parking,tail,license plate and instrument panel lights. I checked all fueses and they are OK. Do you think it is theknob on the blinker? Or am I missing a inline fuse,cylenoid or something else?

It may be the switch, but the wiring diagrams shows there is a fuse (tail fuse 15 amp) and a relay. Both are located in the interior fuse block on the left (drivers) side. The quickest way to test a relay is to swap it with a matching relay (there is often one nearby).

Let me know what you find.

is it a round relay [redacted] 3 4p20 12v 22a ?
There is another square relay there but this one is hot and I'll have to go get another to tell you if this is it.

Copy the following link into your address bar, it shows a link with a picture of what the relay should look like--

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=1310&ptset=A&searchfor=Light+Relay

If the link does work go to partsamerica.com and type in year/make/model, etc and click Replacement Parts the Relays.

You can feel the relay to see if it clicks or makes any sound when you turn the tail lights on and off.

The relay will have a red/black wire to it.

Make sure you do not lose the horn or back-up lights when you pull the relay, as they are also in the same area.

Replaced the relay...NO JOY. Did not lose any other functions. The relay I replaced was part number [redacted] 3. Is this the one you were talking about?
I appreciate your help and timely response. So far you've got me closer then anyone else to solving my problem.

Thanks,Bill

Hello,

If you wish to leave your email address I can send you a wiring diagram to follow.

By the way, it is important to confirm voltage at the fuse. The fuse can be good, but is there voltage to travel through the fuse? Use a test light or voltmeter.

[redacted]


Thank You,

Bill

Your welcome,

Message sent0- 1994 Toyota Tail... in the subject line.

Let me know what you find.

The diagram was an excellent piece of info. Turns out the relay was OK but the ground wire for the rear end was bad. Couldnt have figured it out without your help. I work at a brick yard and have recomended you all to everyone. I am 100% satisfied and think you did an excellent job.



Thank you,

Bill

1994 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

1994 toyota pickup 2.4 engine,starts up and idles real nice,but when you go up a hill and put pressure on it,it bucks like a bronco. replaced air and fuel filter,pcv valve,plugs and wires,replaced timing chain about 15000 miles ago,locals say it is a collapsed catylitic converter or timing chain again,could use some advice,truck has 138000 miles

Not timing chain, unless you put in the worlds cheapest chain, aka a bicycle chain!
The cat converter certainly could be a problem, but they do not colllapse, but rather plug up.Run it past your local Midas (or similar) for a free inspection.

1994 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

94 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 ...Odometer (mileage) works but the Speedometer work intermittently..I don't see a cable connected to the trans. but I do see a cluster of wire connected to the very end of the trans. Any ideas

Hi,
Both the speedometer and odometer use the same sensor in the transmission. That means that if the odometer is working and the speedometer is not the problem is in the speedometer head (gauge). Make sure that when the speedometer is not working, that the odometer is still rolling. If so, replace the speedometer.

1993 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems  When driving 

Good Day

I Replaced the Odometer in my truck today and have noticed a fluctuation in the speedometer anywheres from 4 to 6 KM per hour. Both the Speedometer and the Odometer are mounted on a printed circuit board and I am wondering if the Speedometer can be ReCalibrated to compensate for this difference. I am running P235 75 R 15 Tires and have been since buying the Truck from new with no noticeable difference until now.

Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


DS Clarke

Hello, I'm not aware of a calibration available for the speedometer/odometer other than the speed sensor driven gear.

Did you do this work? Did connections bolt down or solder? Are they tight but not over-torqued? Is the ground wire connection for the instruement cluster clean and tight at both ends?

What happened to the old odometer? Did it quit but the speedometer continue to work?

Please advise,

Roger

Goodday

Yes I replaced the Odometer myself as the release mechanisn broke preventing the Odometer from operating properly. I can take the dash apart again and check the ribbon cable on the rear of the cluster for cleanliness. There was a fair bit of dust present and this maybe interfering with the transfer of data throughout the cluster. As for the overall condition there were no loose wires or breaks noticed but again, once I pull it apart will determine if I find any problems.

Thanks

If this is a cable driven instruement you should seriously consider lubing the cable. I pull the cable out at the speedo end and wipe it clean as a lint free rag will get it. Then as I reinsert it into the cable housing I coat the cable with a white lithium base lube such as Lubricate. Don't apply too much. You don't want grease getting up into the speedo.

If the pulsation continues, I recommend you replace the cable and housing assembly.

Roger

Hi Roger

I will have to pull it again and check to see if it is cable driven, as far as I remember it isn't because of the electronic circuit board that is located directly under the cluster.

Thanks

Okay, I too wondered about a cable even being there. You can look on the transmission for a cable connection without pulling the cluster back out.

Have you considered pulling the speed sensor (ETS) and looking at the condition of the gear? If worn, it could be a cause of signal fluxuation. Check the terminals for tight fit.

The electronic speed sensor (ETS) is on the transmission and usually has a two-wire connector. The sensor is attached by one bolt or a clip. You should not lose transmission fluid when you remove the sensor.

Roger

Thanks Roger

I will check this and hopefully will put this issue to bed.


DS Clarke

1993 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

I have a 1993 pick up w/22re engine and I need to change.I can get a engine out of a 1989 4 wheel dri ve 22rec. will it fit? thanks tim

According to the interchange database it will fit- '87-'94 with VIN R. Be careful if you have strict emissions testing in your state. Always double check major connectors to be sure they are the same (IE- distributor, fuel injection, etc).

1993 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am getting no power to the fuse box that runs the ignition, tailights, heater etc. The headlights, dome light etc.. work but it seems that power to that one fuse box. What could be the problem. My son has been trying to hook up a stereo in the truck and I think that may have something to do with it.

Triple check the battery cables, underhood fuses, and any fusible links between the battery and starter & alternator. Also don't overlook body and engine grounds.

How many fusible links are there going to be and what do they look like?

They be in the fuse box. Check all these first. I'll try to look at one later.

I checked the battery cables, all the fuses that I could find and everything looks correct. The ground wires are all very tight also. I have no fuses that are blown under the hood or in the kick panel on the drivers side of the truck.????

Use a test light or voltmeter to see if you have positive voltage on the main alternator wire. If you don't connect a fused jumper wire from the battery to here, and see if this returns power to the system.

1993 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

when it snow drove home motor want turn over

Do still have lights?

1993 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

My 1993 22re, is slow to start in the mornings. It is fine afterwards. I have a new fuel pump, filter and gas cap. I have 400k miles and just had the engine rebuilt and I'm sure the mechanic didn't replace everything.

Any check engine light while the engine is running?

It may be a temperature sensor, possibly left unplugged (which will turn on the check engine light).

The check engine light is not on. I am just starting it up in the morning. Once started everything is fine.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-


http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/12/5[redacted] 1254.jsp

Once there study the pictures to see if you can find what he didn't hook back up. When at the site you can click on the left hand side of the page to view different components of the fuel system.

1993 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

Engine was replace 1 year ago, remanned Jasper motor. I replaced clutch fan with electric, and new muffler about same time. Problem is, after truck warms to normal operating temp...idle seems to drop down to about 500rpm, oil pressure drops, and engine idles very rough. I replace the egr valve with no change. I can't help but think this has something to do with the exhaust...seems to have begun when new muffler was installed. Could it be the O2 sensor maybe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

The engine dropping down to 500 rpm would give lower oil pressure.And a rougher idle,
I do not think the O2 sensor is the problem, but it is easy to test. With a digital volt meter, check the voltage at the O2. It should normally read about .5 volts with it going up and down(aprox .3 to .8 volts) quickly, up and down. If the voltage in not in this area, or not at all, then replace the 02 sensor. If the old motor had a bad oil consumption problem or a head gasket problem, it might have damaged the 02 sens. Also the old engines problems might have partially plugged or damaged the catalyctic converter in the exhaust. Hope this gives you some direction where to look.
Jasper builds good motors, so you should have a good running truck soon!

1993 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

my trucks temp gauge says it is over heating, i changed the thermostat 3 times, water pump once, fan clutch, radiator, sending unit 3 times, and it still says to be over heating, radiator does not boil over but definately is circulating, we put a manual gauge on the sending units and it says it is over heating, we put a infared thermometer all over the block and it is not over heating so we are stumped

What size engine do you have? 2.4 liter or 3.0 liter

3.0 liter

Everything else seems fine with the exception of the sending unit so I am going to zero in on that. The manual guage you used on the sending unit was it a temperature you were reading or an electrical reading. Also, providing you still have the box, what was the brand name and part number of the sending unit you used.

The guage used was electrical, and was plugged directly into the sending unit. Part # of the sending unit unknown

Take the guage you have and what reading do you get from the sending unit when the engines cold.

I assume it read cold, because the mechanic said he got the same results

Does the sending unit/gauge always read overheating or only when the engine is at operating temp?

Did you test with the sending unit disconnected? What does the gauge do when the sending unit is unplugged?

only when the engine is at operatimg temp, havent tried unplugging the sender

Was the sender disconnected when the manual gauge was used? I am trying to determine if you have wiring problem or if the problem isolated to the sending unit (or the temp at the sending unit area of the engine.)

Yes, the sending unit was disconneted when checked with a manual guage.

I answered this question hours ago......any answers for me?

Hello, anyone there anymore?????????

What you need to do is take one of your old (presumably good) sending units, with the sensor portion in hot (normal operating temp) water. What does the gauge read when the sending unit is (guaranteed) at a normal operating temperature? This will tell us a lot.

dont have the old one anymore, the mechanic has it now. What we are going to try tonight is to install a "wet bulb" guage and transmitter setup that doesnt require the trucks power to operate. Sound good?

Are you doing this for test purposes (to accurately measure the temp at the sending unit-- sounds good) or are you trying to eliminate the factory gauge?

For test purposes, to temporarily take the sending unit, wiring, and guage out of the picture

Great, if you are measuring the temperature in the same spot the sending unit gets its feed.

You could also heat the sending unit up with some hot water.

I'm interested to hear the results.

more to come tomorrow

1993 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

Truck ran fine, pulled over for gas, got back out on the highway and truck suddenly bogged down, hesitated, would not accelerate. Pulled off highway and truck died upon stopping. Truck starts without hesitation and will run at idle without dying. Truck will rev while running and will not die. Truck will still drive, but again there's no power and will die upon stopping. Have had replaced: fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, catalytic converter, muffler. All with no change in performance. Truck appears to be getting fuel as it starts everytime and has run at idle repeatedly. Appears to be a "muffled" noise on the drivers side of engine. Have no clue what could be going on.

Hello
I would look into seeing if the throtle position sensor had gone bad.
Heavychevy

Thank's for your quick response. Could you tell me where that is located on my vehicle, and is it difficult to replace?

It will be located near the throttle body there will two wires protruding from it. Its a pretty easy fix.

1993 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

1993 Pickup V6 automatic, upon acceleration from a stop the tranny shifts very quickly through the gears leaving no power to gain speed. At highway speeds it will not downshift from overdrive until it decels to approx 45-50 mph.

Hi, Verify vacuum to the vacuum modulator on the tranny. Has the hose connection or any length of the line collapsed, or disconnected?

Roger

Thanks for the tip.
What modulator are you referring to? The EGR? I can't seem to locate a vacuum modulator specifically for the tranny. My haynes manual doesn't reference one anyone (not that it's a complete reference).

Your truck kight not have a vacuum modulator after all. Do you find throttle linkage that connects to the tranny via a cable? If so has it disconnected, or lost adjustment?

I'll do some research and try to have more tomorrow, or you may release the question for someone else to try and assist. Your call.

Roger

Thanks!! Adjusting the throttle valve linkage seems to have done the trick.

1993 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

1993 toyot pick-up, 3.0 3vze. just re-built the engine, rings head etc. put every thing back together, tried to run, found fuel coming out exhuast manifold. replaced fuel injectors, fixed problem... idles great 1hr+ no problems set timing, re-checked all fluid levels, wen tfor test drive, seemed to lack power, first hill i hit, engine suddenley dies was told there was a large puff of blue smoke. engine cranks fine, but no spark... any ideas?

Does the engine crank normally, with full compression? Make sure the distributor rotor is turning?

Double check fuses and wiring (it is easy to leave something loose or have something break).

Blue smoke is from oil (black from gas). You may want to remove the plugs and inspect.

What was wrong with the original engine? The exhaust may be restricted, plugged converter, especially if the engine was running poorly before.

Found that the engine quit due to a blown EFI fuse, still don't know why it blew. Replaced it and the engine fired right up. i decided to rebuild the engine due to poor performance and lower than desired compression, the engine had 350,000 kms on it, also i suspected bad injector/s found 3 were suspect. Still does not explain smoke from burning oil, which would appear to only happen under load.... is it normal to have a burn in period after replacing the rings? do the take time to seal prperly?.

Try soaking the cylinders with a little engine oil or marvel mystery oil overnight. When the injectors flood the cylinders with gasoline it washes the oil from the rings and can cause loss of compression and oil control.

Make sure the oil level is correct and doesn't smell of gasoline.

Did full compression check on all cylinders, all well with spec at about 165psi. min=142psi max=171psi according to toyota repair manual. Checked oil, appears to be fine, still golden and no smell of gasoline. took apart and cleaned, again air intake manifold, found to be quite dirty, thought maybe dirt was plugging things up, no difference. Have since blown another 15amp EFI fuse (can't figure out why.. Bad relay?) and believe the loss of power problem may lie in the Air Suction (A/S) system. the vaccum switching valve seems to be constantly open drawing air in at the filter, a hiss can be heard more distintly at low RPM. tried a different vavle (had spare from parts vehicle) no difference. Any thoughts?

Block off anything hissing, and see if things improve immediately.

I can send you wiring diagrams if you wish to track down the cause of the fuse blowing. First triple check wiring for any rub throughs, etc.

So i was busy this weekend. after going back to basics, checking the timing, mechanical, and electronic with no success, i found that the tps was adjustable and istantly fixed my power loss issue, guess it was just out of adjustment... as for the EFI fuse, tracked that down to a short from one on the heat sensor wires on the O2 sensor. After a 30km roadtest, i found that the upper engine seems to be running too hot, although the temp gauge reads normal and apperars to funtion fine, gradually warms up with the truck, gets to normal operating temp and stays there. though the air intake manifold is too hot to touch. also seems the lower coolant host to the rad. and the lower part of the rad stays quite cool, i replaced the thermostat. no luck, still same issues. flushed engine and rad, there appears to be no blockages and water runs through fine. i'm leaning towards the water pump... poor circulation... does this seem right?

Be sure there is no air in the cooling system. Then check for proper circulation:

Engine cold- remove radiator cap and start engine. Allow to warm until thermostat opens. How is circulation? I know you have done a lot and know what you are doing, but please use caution as there could be unexpected bursts of HOT coolant (err on the side of caution).

1993 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

speedometer is not working.

Ok the speedo system is simple.A gear in the transmission tailshaft(drive gear) drives another gear coming out of the transmission (driven gear)These are plastic gears and are where the speedo cable is screwed to.Because they are plastic, the teeth sometimes wear out.Minor dissasembly to check.If it is ok attach an electric drill to cable center.When turned on, the drill will make speedo turn.If not, remove cable where attached and see if center of cable at that point is turning.If not , you require new or used cable (parts store, or autowrecker item,probably not a Toyota Dealer)If center part of cable IS turning, then your speedo itself has failed.(only avail autowrecker, maybe ebay)
If speedo has been 'twitching'the last few weeks, before failure, my guess is bad cable.
The twitching caused by insufficient lubrication, and cables do break.

hey thanks, just bought the truck and the speedo wasn't working when i got it yesterday, one of the reasons the truck was so cheep, is it posible the cable just ditached from the back of the dash were it go's into the speedo?

Certainly possible it is disconnected,Have a look.Some people disconnect to keep the mileage lower (try that on a rental car lol!)I am willing to bet on a bad cable though...common problem, fairly cheap fix.
Good truck...if you got a good deal.

thanks agen, hope it is just a bad cable, thats something i can do.
got it for $2,000 with 180k on the 3.0L EFI V6, the guy just had the injecter rail replaced and very rarely used the four weel drive, so i'm thinking, baring a majour fuck up, this was a good deal

EFI MIGHT mean no speedo cable.That year some used a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) attached to the trans instead of a cable it has wires.A bit more $$ to change too!
Use the 4wd occasionally, even if not required.Keeps the lubricants moving around.

will do on the 4X4 deal, i didnt know that and its a good thing to know.
its cable, thank god, kind of a bear to find the parts though, have to order them because no one has toyota parts more than 10 years old

1992 Toyota Pick Up Engine  When idling Always

The idle on this truck changes from a regular 800-1000 rpm idle to a 1600-1800 rpm idle every few seconds. Similar to what would be expected when the a/c cycles on, but this occurs almost all the time with the air both on and off. The only time I've noticed it might not happen is if the engine is very warm (after a hill climb or long run at high speed). Even then after a few minutes of normal idle the problem starts up again. No other problems with this engine, runs great otherwise.

Hello, What engine do you have, please? Fuel Injection, or Carbureator?

If it is fuel injected...is the throttle body bore and butterfly valve clean? Does the accelerator act like it is sticking at the idle position and require just a little more effort to make it move from closed toward open?

Please advise,

Roger

Roger,

Thanks for your reply. I went out to check the engine type, and inspected the hoses going into the throttle body and found one cracked underneath. I played around with it a bit and although it wasn't doing exactly the same thing, after trimming the crack off and reinstalling it the problem seems to have disappeared. The engine is a 22R-E fuel injected. Also, this hose goes back to some type of valve attatched to the fuel injection rail, This valve has a large (9/16" or so) hex bolt head with a slot going through the head. Underneath the bolt head is a spring so the bolt is under tension from the spring. Adjusting the bolt head effects the idle speed. Could you tell me what this is?

I'll check it out. At first I thought since you said it is on the fuel rail it could be a fuel pressure regulator, but I'll need a diagram to get the name of the part correct for you.

Roger

Research tells me you are talking about the AUXILLIARY AIR VALVE SYSTEM.

Do you have a FAX number? I can send you an IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM document that tells how to set the idle speed. It includes a drawing of the IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW. Will the FAX need a cover sheet?

Roger

Roger,

Thats not necessary, I picked up a book today and will get it set correctly. I also found some more info on the problem at: http://www.geocities.com/toyotashawn/bizzareidle.html
I never associated the brake pedal into the problem, but this is exactly what my truck has been doing. Thanks for your assistance. I'll authorize payment today.

1992 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

Engine quits intermittently. Knock sensor (check engine light) warning light is on. When engine quits, I hear a solenoid switch click in dash. Engine quits for a few seconds then either returns to running or has to be restarted. Checked all wiring under hood and even sprayed water to try to instigate the problem. No luck. Installed new rotor, cap and wires.

Sounds like the igniter for the ignition. Common problem, will get worse (no start)
Check the knock sensor first, as its cheaper to replace and can also cause the samr symptoms. I believe the All Parts guys want about $18 for it. While down there, pick up a $15 Haynes manual. They are quite good.

Thanks. Replaced the ignitor ($250)and problem subsided for about a week then returned. Knock sensor is also very expensive for the 3.0 engine. Do you think this will fix problem?

If really expensive, you might want to consider used one.
The last time I replaced a knock sensor, the car would not start intermittently, and progressively got worse, It started out as once a wee, cooled engine for a few hours, then it started. It progressed to once a day, then every second or third start, then no start at all.The overall time frame for the above was several months. I then changed the crank sensor, car started right up, and has not missed a beat, for the past 2-3 months, hot or cold!
In the end you will have to decide. If the expensive one was at the Toy Dealer, you might shop around.

Did you mean Knock sensor or Crank sensor? I agree to replace knock sensor.

If you are getting a knock sensor code, thats the one.My mistake (answering several other questions) The knock sensor, detects any pinging, and will retard timing, which retards power.If its malfunctioning, it can back off timing enough to reduce power substantially.

1992 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

My motor is a 22re. The engine will hesitate when going down the road at a constant speed with no load on the motor. It doesn't really hesitate when speeding up but will do it sometimes when slowing down. At first it just did it sometimes but now it is getting worse and I can't figure out why.

When was the last tune-up; new spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc.

Does the engine idle okay?

Any black smoke from the exhaust when the problem occurs?

Any check engine light while the engine is running?

The last tune up was about 15000 miles ago, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter. There is no engine light coming on at all. The truck doesn't really miss at idle, maybe just a little. It is more when at a higher constant rpm.

There is also no smoke when running, I just got a new head and timing chain put on about 20,000 miles ago

It is possible the TPS (throttle position sensor) is dropping out within a certain range.

It seems low fuel pressure and exhaust backpressure (plugged catalytic converter) can be ruled out because you can accelerate fine when the problem occurs.

If you had a leaking fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator (both of which create a rich/flooding condition) the problem should show up more often.

The problem occurs almost everyday now but not all the time. It started out hesitating every once in a while but has changed into every day. It is most noticable when going down the highway. Every few-10 seconds it will have a little hesitation. Is there any way to test the throttle position sensor or to see if injectors are leaking?

Call your local auto-parts store to see if they can test the throttle position sensor (off the vehicle), many chain stores offer this service free of charge.

You can also test it yourself with an ohm-meter. While ohm testing can confirm a bad TPS, it cannot guarantee a good one.

I figured out what it was. The altinator was going bad. Testing showed that it was only putting out between 6-7 volts and less at higher rpm so it wasn't putting out enough voltage to fire the plugs completely resulting in a rich condition.

1992 Toyota Pick Up Drive Train / Driveline   

1992 Toyota Truck 5speed making a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the rear. The higher the gear the more noise. When grinding or clattering sound is present, I can feel a slight vibration on the stick shift. Transmission and Differiential gear oils checked and replacd. Still making noise especially at 30+ MPH up to about 68 MPH, then it quites down significantly after that. Don't know if this is the U-joints or the Differiential, or something else.....Truck has 150k miles, original clutch.

Is there any play in the U-Joints (clunking when you shift/slow/accelerate)?

The sound is most likely coming from the differential. It could also be an axle or wheel bearing, but my bet is on the differential. Was there any debris in the gear oil when it was changed? You should be able to find a used differential at a reasonable price with a warranty.

No clunking in the U-joints, but when parked I can move the shaft back and forth about 1/4" to 1/2". Don't know if that is normal. When moving, I dont' see any clunking of the U-Joints, the whole shaft moves along with it.

I would say the problem is in the differential.

Was there any change in the noise at all when the noise was changed?

1992 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

truck stumbles during rapid excelleration, but only after it runs for an hour. Never fails to start and runs fine on short drives. Also spark plugs were heavily coated with light brown residue. all ignition wires are fine and properly supported. Is it the coil?

Did you replace the spark plug? Replace the spark plugs and see if the problem still remains.

When was the last fuel filter change, we need to make sure there is adequate fuel supply.

The coil could be breaking down, inspect for corrosion in the coil tower. How have you confirmed the ignition wires are fine, these can look good but still fail under load.

1992 Toyota Pick Up Drive Train / Driveline   

1992 toyota pick up, 5speed. 4x2, 4cyl. When shifting into 3rd,goes in,but feels like NOT all the way, shift into 4th, and it goes NOT go in without noise,and it will go in,if you just slightly put in gear, but jumps out. Also jumps of 3rd. to. goes into 5th ok. fluid ok,no deflection of firewall.clutch fluid looks ok. Any help?? Thanks. J.TooToo

This is clearly internal and would be rather complicated to repair (and repair is not always reliable).

These transmissions are normally tough, so I recommend installing a used transmission with a warranty. There should be plenty available at a reasonable price.

So this is common among Toyota's? What kind of internal thing? Cluster gears?,gear teeth tapered? what? If I get a used one, what are the chances of getting a"bad" one? I found one with about 60K. I don't drive this truck all the time, only on the farm. Thanks Again. J.TooToo

There can be a few causes, worse case scenario will leave debris floating around the transmission that you may or may not find.

I haven't noticed this being a problem with Toyota's, and would quickly go with a low mileage transmission (ask for a warranty).

Have you had any trouble with the leaf springs, assuming you use it for work?

No douglas, I have not. This a fairly low mileage truck,I just drive to and from farm, and haul branches, fencing,fuel cans,feed maybe once/twice every other week, But I have to drive about 20miles one way,on highway. But no other real problems. Thanks Again Doug. This seems to be a good web site. Keep up the good work. J.TooToo

1992 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

22RE engine as ticking noise on acelleration or under load only. Not at cruise speed or idle. 92 4x4. Hi miles.

Usually ticking under load means weak plug wires, especially if damp weather. Also look carefully at exhaust manifold for gasket leaks or cracks in the manifold.
Tubular exh headers are avail and easier to find than manifolds.

1992 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

The vehicle is a 92 pickup, 6cyl, 4wd.

The truck will run, and runs fine whe it does, but it will occasionally not start. There are no problems with any of the electrical systems, the problem appears to be something in the fuel system. The fuel pump has recently been changed and is working correctly. Not sure what else to check.

We have only owned the vehicle for about a month, the previous owner advised that he had run into the problem a couple times before but it always seemed to work itself out... and that no "repairs" were made.

The gas cap appears to have been changed at some point and while it fits it appears to seal too tightly...when it is removed you can hear the quick intake of air which would suggest vapor lock problems.

My assumption is that either there is a problem somewhere in the fuel system between the fuel pump and the engine, but I'm also wondering if the potential vapor lock problem could be contributing to the overall problem, i.e. causing damage to the fuel pump.

The feul tank venting could be a problem.You could check the tank vent line going back to the tank as well as the charcoal cannister etc. Or you could leave the cap slightly loose and see if the problem goes away.Early cars and trucks had a vented cap and it was consideren an emissions concern, so they were made sealed, and vented back into the engine.
Fuel injected vehicles do not experience vapor lock and the small amount of vacuum noticed when removing cap, is normal.

1992 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

where does the fuel line attach to the 3.0 litre v-6

Fuel line attaches to throttle body on intake manifold. There are two lines, a 5/16 " line in and a 1/4" retuen line (out)

forgot to tell u it has fuel injection.

That info was for injection.
Carb only has one fuel line.
Why are you looking? There
is a scrader valve on the 5/16
line that looks like tire valve
stem..used to test fuel pressure

1991 Toyota Pick Up Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When braking When warm 

Why does my truck make a queaking noise when I put on the brakes only when it has been running a while. It doesn't sqeak all the time. I hope the brakes are not giving out. Please help me.

Is this a high pitched squeal', if it is- this is either the wear indicator letting you know the brake pads are worn or simply brake dust which will make this sound.

Is this easy to repair? Please let me know if I have to take it in to a shop or if I can do it myself.

It depends on your skill level. Have you ever inspected and repaired brakes before?

I myself have not, but my son has and I want to make sure that this is the problem before he comes all the way from Nevada to look into this. I do not want to drive the truck if it will be dangerous to me and others. I think I want someone to credit my money back to me. I am not satisfied with your answers
Sorry

Rather than have your son travel from Nevada to do the inspection,take it to a local chain store that offers brake service(Midas,Meineke,PepBoys,Goodyear etc..)and let them do an inspection.Some of these places offer this service free of charge or at a nominal price.If it is the brake warning indicator causing the problem,you my just need to have the pads or shoes replaced and posibly the rotors/drums resurfaced.In this case in my area(So.Cal)this seveice is about $90-$130 per axel.If the drums/rotors are not resurfacable,then the cost could rise another $80-$200.When you add the parts cost and the cost of your son coming all the way out you will most likly find that this may be your best option.I know that we are all kind of leary of taking our vehicles to shops we are unfamiliar with but if what you are being told at one shop seems a little out of line,seek out another to get a second or third opinion.There are other problems that could be the cause or related to your delima.You say it starts to happen once the vehicle has warmed up.Heat causes expansion and if a wheel bearing is starting to wear,a squeak or squeal as well as a slight grinding sound could occur.This could be detected by a competent technician when he inspects the brakes.If the information I or the prior writer are still not suitable to you then by all means contact [redacted] for any refunds.Please understand diagnosing problems from this side of the screen is a difficult thing to do without doing an actual "hands-on" inspection.We take the information given us and use our past or present run-ins with such problems and try to provide you information as to how best to resolve the situation.If you have your vehicle checked and nothing is found in the above described,I'd be happy to try and assist to find the causal problem.
Good Luck,
Paul

Paul: Thank you very much for your info on my pickup. I will call my son up and tell him what you wrote. I want to make sure that I am able to drive my pickup. Thanks again. You were helpful. Pep boys are about a mile and a half from me. genny

Good luck, and as I stated,I will do what I can to help in any way I can.
Paul

1991 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I put jumper cables on Backwards. Shot out battery. I got a new battery and still nothing. When I turn the key there is absolutley nothing. What fuse controls this? What do I need to do? The lights do turn on so there is a good connection of the battery. Thanks

Hi, What engine please? I'll see what wiring diagram I can find.

Roger

Its the Toyota Deluxe 4Cylnder.

I believe there is a fuse relay box near the battery. One of the positive wires from the battery should supply power to this box.

Look inside and check the high amp fuses (40-60 amps). The wiring diagram shows four fusible links associated with this underhood fuse relay box.

Would you like the wiring diagram I found? I'll need your email address to send it your way.

Roger

Yeah that would be great. [redacted] Thats what I kind of figured. I noticed the 80A was blown. I also just went out and bought all the other fuses. I am going to put them in the morning. I hope it works. Thank you for your help. I will let you know if it works. Chris

I sent you a couple of wiring diagrams. Do you also need fuse application data?

Roger

Well it was the 80A. Truck started up and is good to go. Thank you for your help!
Chris

Great job! Hope that is all there is to it. It's scarry to consider what trouble that fuse prevented.

Please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1991 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am switching to a new stereo after my other one got stolen, I am hooking it up as the wir diagrahm I have shows, maybe the diagram I have is wrong. Is the Blue/yellow for constant 12v, brown- ground, gray is my switched 12v,Green is an illumanation wire? does it need to be hooked up and if so where?"

Wiring diagrams are usually 100% correct and yes the illumination wire should be spliced into the dash light circuit where any of the dash lights are or to the switc itself.

It does not have a switch close by to hook it up to. But anyways the DOME fuse was blown under the hood and it was the problem of why I had no power. i switched it while I was waiting for a response, but thankss for the quick reply. why the dome light in the truck run with the stereo? I do not get it. And yes the wiring diagram was dead on.

Perhaps it made the stereo display brighter when Dome light on? Glad you have it up and running...gotta have tunes! ;-)

The dome light still does not work, That is next weekend, I have a sweet junk yard close by that loves the toyotas, i will let you know what I find.

1991 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

My truck runs hot after five minutes and this has just happened, what could be the problem?

Hello
Most likly the thermostat. Check though to see if there is a leak coming from the waterpump. If no leak than I would replace the thermostat and also replace the radiater cap with a new one with the same psi (those also can go bad) just for an added measure.
Heavychevy

Thank-you very much for the advice! I will do both tomorrow.Although I want to ask, is changing the thermostat something I or a mechanic must do?

Just depends on how comfortable you are with it. You can purchase a manual at just about any autoparts store and follow the instructions. Most people prefer to do it them selves saves alot of money and time.
Heavychevy

Again, thanks. I think I'll try that. One last q. I've noticed that in turning, usually to the right, I hear a faint sqeaking sound. I've had the fluid level chkd for both the transmission (automatic) and steering.Now I'm talking about a 2004 chevy cavalier.

First think that poped in my head is the start of a sqeaky belt. It could also be a steering pump getting ready to go bad. I would recommend first replacing the belt (good idea to anyway saves alot of headache in the future)
Heavychevy

Heavychevy,
I want to thank you for your advice. I'll try them all. Have a great day!!
Igmo on autos

your welcome. Hope you have a great day.
Heavychevy

.

,

,,

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your pick up.
Heavychevy

1991 Toyota Pick Up Drive Train / Driveline   

Problems shifting into gear in warm weather. had same problem last summer on & off, then no problems all winter. Weather has warmed up (2-3 days ago) shifting is getting more difficult. Have to start in 2nd gear with a little force. Clutch fluid is topped up, bled lots of bubbles out of the line but still hard to shift. trying to shift into reverse causes gear grinding noise. also tightened loose clutch fluid reservoir. think that was source of the air bubbles.

Hello, Are you confident the slave cylinder is extending full travel to fully release the clutch pressure plate?

Roger

1991 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

The truck runs great, and always start's on the first try when its cold, but after driving for awhile and then shutting the enigine off, it won't start for an hour or more, I just get a humming or buzzing sound when I turn the key in the ignition. I have lights, radio etc, but it won't crank. After awhile it will crank again and start up, it seems when the engine cools down, the problem goes away. Issue has been onging for over a yr, I installed new battery, terminals, and starter, and problem still persists.
If you guys resolve this your awesome

Hello,

Do you have a multimeter?

You have to take a long hard look at the battery cables (including engine and body grounds). This is the source for current, is sure sounds like current is severely restricted when hot.

I assume nothing so far has helped, at least not for long.

A quick test that may reveal the problem without a meter is to feel the battery cables right after a no-start attempt. Any hot spots (shouldn't burn, but use caution if you are sensitive to heat) along the cable or at the ground location?

I have tested the voltage with a meter from the battery to the starter during startup and it read 12 volts. I have never tried this when the engine will not crank because its always when Im out running errands. I also took a wire brush to the ground from the battery to the body of the truck, is there another ground besides that one? and also should I replace the wires from the battery to the starter.

It will likely need either the positive or ground cable replaced. See if you can locate a weak spot OR corrosion 'bleed down' at one the cables (usually the positive).


You could still start the truck several times, the feel the cables Or have an assistant watch and see if there is a little smoke from one of the cables. Or perhaps signs where the cable previously became hot.

Thanks very much for your assistance, I will post again after I replaced the cables, and tested for a while.

1990 Toyota Pick Up Engine Won't Start When turning Always

I just bought a 1990 Toyota Pickup and it ran fine during test drive and from car lot after purchasing. Sat overnight and now, will not start. Replaced plugs, cap, rotor and coil. Getting white spark at plugs but will not fire. Plugs are wet with fuel so getting gas. Compression good. Truck has 165k miles. Engine looks like it has been cleaned (probably by car dealer). They will not take the vehicle back so I need ideas to help me figure this out. Thanks!

Hello, What engine please? Carb, or fuel injected?

When you have spark, compression and fuel but no start that leaves me to believe there is too much fuel, ignition timing could be off, or maybe the fuel quality is in question. If the engine has a carb does the choke work?

Roger

I'm sorry! The engine is a 4 cyl. EFI. When I purchased the vehicle the gas tank was just about empty and I did fill the tank with new gas. I considered the timing being out but it was running fine when I shut it down. How can the timing get messed up just sitting? Could the plug wires be messed up if the engine was washed?

Timing won't get messed up just sitting. The next attempt to start the engine is the most frequent event when the engine can jump time if the timing belt/chain is worn. If it jumps just one gear tooth you may still have compression but no start.

There could have been water in the fuel tank if it was near empty for long enough to let condensation form.

Will you try an alternate fuel source? Will it try to start on a spray of starting fluid? (It may be necessary to first dry the spark plugs)

Still thinking,

Roger

One thing I forgot to mention, when I first tried to start the truck after it sat over night, it did fire and it was sputtering. I gave it some gas and was trying to keep it running but it died. That's when it stopped running. I have tried the starter fluid and got nothing. The rotor button is dead on the number one cap tower at TDC. Would this be the case, had the timing chain jumped a tooth? Also, I'm getting about 100 psi compression at the number 1 cylinder and around 60 at number 4. This info is from the guy who checked it for me. I don't have the info on 2 or 3.

If the rotor position is right at #1 on the distributor with #1 cyl at TDC the timing may be all right.

General rule for a compression test is that the lowest cylinder compression should be 85% of the highest cylinder reading. Yours is not but that should not prevent engine start. It would effect power output after start.

You stated you see a white spark at the spark plug gap. I would have expected a blue color. Can you test the coil wire resistance and the spark plug wire resistance? I remember you said the engine was washed and you have replaced the parts usually effected.

Can you try another coil wire?

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

Turned out the mechanic that told me the rotor was pointing at the number one tower was an idiot. I checked it myself and the chain tensioner was shot and the chain jumped a tooth.
Thanks for checking in.

What else will you require of me?

Please advise,

Roger

Your job here is done sir. Thanks for your help.
The mechanic I took it to also did a leakdown test on the cylinders and said they were off the charts, so I'm just going to rebuild the engine myself.
Thanks again.

Thank you. If your engine doesn't burn oil I'd bet a valve job would be enough.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me pleaseclick on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Roger

1989 Toyota Pick Up Engine Stalling When accelerating When warm 

22re engine. Just replaced head gasket, drove it for about 100 miles, everything worked fine. Then it began cutting out when accelerating. Runs fine when cold, then begins to fail after 5 or 10 minutes. If I hold down the pedal it will stumble, then go for 2 seconds, stumble, go for 2 seconds, over and over, then it may just take off and run for a little bit. If I shut it off, it will work OK for a few minutes, then start again. I replaced fuel filter, cap, rotor, injector o-rings, and adjusted valves. HELP!

chack caburater adjustments and inspect vacume lines for cracks or disconections
also recheck the timing

Sounds as if you have rerouted your vacuum hoses some. If it does it when it is warm, it usually means one of the vacuum circuits. I would make sure all are hooked up correctly. Check the circuits going to the carb ports. You may have them reversed, causing a direct vacuum surge against one of the circuits. It could be timing also. You had to remove the timing chain gear, are you absolutely sure that everything went back together correctly? If so, then it has to be in the vacuum system. Check for cracks and rerouted hoses. I am sure thats where your problem is.

1989 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

1989 toy p/u ext.cab 300k miles, 2nd trans. Approx. 14 days ago at about 60mph started making a loud constant hi pitch humming noise like a kazoo. Now it does this at 39-41 mph. Disappears at speed less than. Cannot determine where its comminig from, but so far, the truck has been running fine. Am I looking at a transmission again? Shouild I contemplate a viking funeral?

Is it possibly coming from the wheel, this sound familiar with wheel bearing sound. This sound will usually change on corners.

If it is not from a wheel, it may be in the transmission. Check the oil level. Also look around for signs of leaks. Let me know what you find.

1989 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

I have a problem with determining if the fuel pump is working. If I jump the fp and B+ should the fuel pump work. I have the tank out and the sending unit out of the tank .With the key on should the pump work

yes if you connect power directly to the fuel pump it should come on and start pumping.
The fuel pump body should be grounded
it is negative.
Make sure you change that sending unit by all means while it is out
I hope this helps

Hey,
If I have the connector hoohed up I think that ngrounds the pump. Am i right. Someone told me I had to unhook the oil pump sending switch. If thats true where is it located?

Your oil pump sending unit has nothing to do with your fuel pump
A direct 12 volts to fuel pump should allow pump to operate otherwise pump is bad

1989 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

I have rebuilt the engine in my 1989 22re. it runs great while sitting and just idling. I was missing the first vacuum valve on the valve cover and the canister with the screw and spring in it that goes in the intake, all with vacuum hoses attached. the truck will go about 45 mph in 3rd gear but has no power at all. after warming up it wants to die if your not in the gas all the time, and I eventually loose almost all power having to down shift. could those items cause this, or what is?

Two things comes to mind. Low fuel pressure is one. The other, especially after an engine rebuild (assuming the engine was not running properly before), is an exhaust restriction (plugged catalytic converter). If you can creat a temporary exhaust leak (drop exaust pipe slightly at maniold, or remove an O2 sensor; if equipped) the engine will instantly run better if restricted exhaust is the problem.

I'm not sure what these parts are, is there a vacuum leak because of them?

Yes the part is a vacuum port valve. it is one of three on the valve cover that goes to the intake, throttle body, and to the distibutor. I have check the cat, and that is not it either.

1989 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

3.0l efi v6, 4wd. 160k miles. As idled rough for first 30 seconds upon cold start for some time(like running on 5 cylinders), now does it until engine is at normal operationg temperature. Cold start valve? Warm up regulator? Thanks for the help!

fuel injector cold start valve could be going bad
You may also have a faulty carburator
a bad pcv valve evenn faulty fuel injectors can cause these same symtoms
One thing for sure is you should have your computer scanned for stored codes to see if it pinpoints aproblem that can save you money from trial and error
I hope this helps

1989 Toyota Pick Up Drive Train / Driveline   

Had (have) extremely soft/weak clutch pedal. Replaced clutch assy, slave cylinder & master cylinder. Clutch Still will not disengage. Pulled xmission and verified clutch plate in right direction (according to chilton). Protruded spring section facing pressure plate. Fork moving 3 to 3 1/2 inches when pedal engaged. Bled whole bottle of fluid through, still have weak pedal and no disengagement. Help!

If the clutch fork is moving far enough (sounds like it is, fully bled, clutch fork not bent, etc) the problem is likely the pressure plate. With the age of the truck, I'd consider a used clutch assembly from a reputable salvage yard.

Are you suggesting a used pressure plate in lieu of the new one I put in? Truck has 218,000. I actully took the first "new" pressure plate back to autozone and exchanged it. I can't figure why I have such a weak pedal with a new pressure plate

I didn't realize you put in a new pressure plate, my mistake.

What did you replace first, the clutch assembly or the hydraulic components?

No problem! The first thing I replaced was the slave cylinder. That didn't work, so I replaced the pressure plate, clutch plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing. Everything cinched up nicely, trans went right in (sort of). Chilton manual says short part of spline toward flywheel, but I can't tell on new plate, so I went by the diagram, which shows the protruded spring mechanism facing clutchplate. maybe it's backward, but I have my doubts.

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/1b/c[redacted] 1bc9/repairInfoPages.htm

Check these tolerances to make sure the problem is not here.

http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/1b/f[redacted] 1bf3/repairInfoPages.htm

Use the above link to view images of clutch plate installation.

Let me know if either of these help, and we'll continue.

Cannot access repair info page, but did verify clutch installation is correct (according to dealer). I need about 3/16' more travel to disengage clutch, but can't get it with 5 1/2 clutch pedal travel and other adjustments maxed out. I ordered the rubber hose that I found in between hard lines, in hopes that it's flexing. wise, I'm at loss.

Are you absolutley sure there is no air left in the system?

Positive. Still have a soft/weak pedal. I was able to get the clutch to disengage by exercising the fork with a large pry bar, but can't get the hydraulic actuation to push the fork as far.

Try this link again. Highligh, Copy, and Paste into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/1b/c[redacted] 1bc9/repairInfoPages.htm

Once there, on the right side of the page there are more instructions that give tolerances, adjustments, etc.

At this point it seems the adjustment is off or you got defective or incorrect parts. Were all the parts from AutoZone?

Made all adjustments I could; clutch pedal is at highest point. The hydraulic system will not actuate the fork far enough to release clutch. I need another 1/8 to 3/16 travel just to disengage. I even made a makeshift rod for the slave cylinder to get more travel, but it seems like the hydraulic system is not strong enough to overcome required clutch pressure. Since this is the same problem I had prior clutch replacement (two different sets), including new master & slave cylinders, and the rubber line that seemed to be swelling a bit. I'm seriously puzzled. I wonder if I need to go OEM, but that's an expensive way to troubleshoot.

If you are suspecting the swelling to be the problem (it might) Aeroquip , Earls and Russell all make teflon lined stainless steel braided hoses for brake systems that are often used in clutch applications.They do not swell up.

thanks. I replace the rubber line ($46 OEM part) and it is no longer moving around, but problem persists. I have no idea what's going on. I have two thoughts: I need all OEM replacement parts, and/or I need to vacuum or pressure bleed for safty's sake. I love that old truck, but I'm getting mad at her!

I have found that clutches are 10x harder to bleed than brakes, you have to be persistant.

Truck is still up on jack stands. I used a mighty vac and ensured lines are bled. It seems to me that the hydraulic capacity (by design) is at it's max and I still need 1/4' movement on fork to disengage. Is this a toyota thing?

You might want to check that all the parts in clutch are correct. A 1/8" smaller release brg etc can cause problems also.
Clitch pedal freeplay should be aprox 1"

If I give up 1"", I'm really screwed. I don't know where to go from here. May have to swallow my pride and send it in on a hook, but I know that they'll just start shotgunning W/OEM parts and run up a bill. any more suggestions?

Sometimes there are additional hole(s) on the clutch pedal, where the clutch master clevis is attached. Changing the hole =changing the pedal ratio,

no such luxury on this truck. Only one place to pin clevis.

If all the aftermarket parts are correct for the truck and designed to be factory replacements, it should all work.It is possible that a rookie parts guy gave you a part for a Toyota car?
The dealer is a last resort.

I had the same thought, but the parts compare side by side. I'm thinking about putting kits into the original master cyl and slave cyl and reinstalling. I'm really buffalo'd on this.....

kits might do it if you hone out the cylinders and kits are cheap too.

What else can I do? The hydraulic system is not going to operate beyond it's calibrated movement. I made a longer rod and installed between the slave cylinder and fork, but it seems that there is not enough force to extend the fork, regardless.

It almost seems that the bore of the clutch master cylinder is larger than the bore of the slave cylinder.

Are you suggesting that I focus there instead?

Not hare to measure the bore of the cylinders,if slave is bigger volume
(bore x stroke) than the clutch master, then you would get too much pedal travel.
Simple physics.

1989 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

Have no power to fuel pump. all fuses OK. Replace circut opening relay. Install jumper to connect +B to FP still no power. When I run a jumper from Bat [12volts] to fuel pump pump works and truck runs.Have traced wiring to circut opening relay test with Ohmmeter wires OK. Any ideas ?.

Have you confirmed the +B is missing and not the ground?

Yes ground OK

Follow the wire up as close as you can to the front of the truck and retest for power.

I assume the pump don't prime when you initially turn on the key AND during engine cranking.

1989 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

looking for possible causes for the following...
while driving down the road battery light comes on. truck continues to run for a while (10-60mins) with the battery light randomly going on and off every couple minutes. after 10-60mins truck all of a sudden stalls as if key was turned off; no smoke, other gagues reading fine (oil, temp). truck will not start for several minutes and then only a push start gets it going. any thoughts? thank you

Sounds like a battery issue, as the truck continues to run with a push start.Check battery date on battery, and cable connections.Batterys normal life is five years.Easy to get charging system tested.Midas sometimes does this service for free.

1989 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

My truck was running great, until i went out one morning and tried to start it, nothing happened. no clicks, no lights turned on absolutly nothing happened. i recently changed the timing chain and componets, and the clutch, slave and master cylinders, my truck engine is also covered in oil from a small leak, about one quart every three weeks. could this have anything to do with the truck not responding when i turn the key over?

Hi, First order of business is to check the state of charge of the battery and the connections for tight clean fit.

We can deal with the oil leak later and I doubt it is the cause of the no crank condition.

Roger

i hooked up a battery cahrger to the battery and still nothing, should i leave the charger running for a while?

Yes,or if possible take the battery in for testing for state of charge and reserve capacity.

I have made many roadside service calls when the customer turned the engine off and when attempting to restart there was absolutely no power.

The battery had failed without signs or warning.

Roger

well when i was chargin the battery i noticed that a boiling sound was coming from insid the battery, and what looked like water was coming out slowly. so i think that is my problem. that would be the sulfric acid coming out right?

Yes, the battery would leak acid if a cell were dead or the rate of charge is excessive.

I can't be certain that a battery is all you need but it is a great start if your current battery fails testing/charging.

Roger

i had the alternater and the battery tested they came back perfect. what would be my next step? could the starter be bad?

The starter can't be blamed for having no lights. Has that cleared up?

What engine please? Have you thumped the starter while someone holds the key in the start position?

Roger

1989 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

During a recent major storm, I noticed that when I step on the brakes, my gauge (mechanical) lights come on. Also when I turn on the parking lights, the brake lights come on. The storm has passed, but the problem remains. I have checked the related circuits and can not find where the problem comes from. Any help?

Whenever I find see this kind of unusual problen shows up, it is aleays related to a circuit ground problem (-)
The first place I look is the trailer wiring if it has been added. Then I remove and test each taillight bulb socket, to see if it has a good ground. Easily done with a volt/ohm meter and some patience. Can also be done with a test light. What you are looking for is a broken or corroded gnd connection.
The unusual light scenario, is due to the electrical current seeking another path, when the ground circuit fails.

1989 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

Failed emissions earlier in the year. Sudden overnight change, recently. 22RE in '89 4x4 pickup. Engine constantly chugs, chugs worse when slowing down & turning, stalls often when going very slow (turns) or at idle. (Engine does not knock/ping, other than chugging it has no other problems) Replaced severely cracked exhaust manifold, header pipe & O2 sensor (on pipe). Still chugs. Throttle control sensor, emission componets or EGR valve needs replacement? Hard to identify the source.

I say a good tune up and cleaning of the injecters and change in fuel filter along with the EGR valve. Chugging like you say its not getting the proper fuel mixture. If its got many miles on it you may need to step it up on simple things like spark plugs that fire hotter and high milage oil.
Heavychevy

I recently replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter (within the last year, 2007). And installed new triple-prong spark plugs & wires with a rebuilt distributor. So, I know it's none of those things. It is a manual tranny (used tranny installed only has 60,000 miles). I already have a clean EGR valve ready to install, should I also replace the EGR Vacuum Mod and VSV's? And could an old Charcoal canister be messing it up too?

Have you checked the timing? Replace Egr valve and vacuum mod it will definatly improve gas milage and performance but I still say its a combination of things. But importantly check the timing you may have to adjust it.

Had a shop with lifts replace the timing chain (internal) within the last year (2007). Timing was adjusted for high altitude (about 6,000 ft.), I live at about 5,500 ft., but I travel to around 8,000 ft. often for work. Never had any timing problems since the chain was replaced and adjusted, it would be hard to think that timing would be the problem. How much chugging or stalling could dirty fuel injectors cause? A lot or a little? And would an unseen vacuum hose leak cause this much chugging?

Dirty injecters can make an engine chug.another would be the gas you use the general rule for high altitude is the manufacturer recommendation minus two. So if your car needs 87 you can put in 85. Check for leaks deffintly at high alltitudes different preassures. Also icing in the fuel lines at that altitude can occur get some gas treatment. Glad you pointed out high altitude though I used to live near denver alot of people experienced auto troubles related to gas and icing and pressure problems.

Will replace the Throttle Sensor, EGR valve, EGR vacuum mod, VSV's, Dash pot, charcoal canister, and check/clean the fuel injectors in the next 24 hours. And I will test it after each part replacement. I'll get back to you, HeavyChevy, tomorrow. Thanks.

ill be here

Replaced and adjusted the Throttle position sensor, the old sensor was dead, no tension and tilted off it's axis. Also replaced the Vacuum Module. (Lot of Toyota trucks out here in Colorado, so I can get good used parts for most of it). Ran out of time, got other stuff going on, & driving my girlfriends' car around to get stuff done. (It's funny, people stare when they see a rough cowboy looking handyman get out of a sports car with a chainsaw; I mostly do tree trimming, 15+ years worth). Gonna replace the EGR Valve (it's on order), gonna check the fuel injectors, and I decided to have a buddy of mine do additional diagnostics, replace the front bushings & shocks at his shop (I don't have an auto lift or the extra time to do all of it). So it might be Friday by the time he's done with his part of it, and since I'm just working on it afterhours. So, ill get back to ya later this week to let ya know exectly what was up with it, HeavyChevy! Thanks from Colorado.

All righty I will be here Sounds as though you on the right path. I ussually get all my parts for my own vehicals at an auto salvage place also. Some people are scared to do that but be honest I have better luck with used parts than some auto stores and cheaper to.
I know what you mean about the staring I somestimes drive my wifes cute little purple neon and I step out with harley boots long hair beard and all covered in grease.
Heavychevy

//

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your pick up.
Heavychevy

1989 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

Truck runs fine except engine almost completely dies at full throttle. Does not matter how quickly or slowly I depress the accelerator, or how fast I am going, or how many RPMs the engine has. Will not recover with throttle held open, but recovers quickly when I release gas pedal about 1/4" or so.

Hi, Have you replaced the fuel filter? It could be as simple as a flow restriction. What is the fuel pressure?

Roger

except it will run fine at 80 mph. Seems to be only throttle position that kills it

What engine? 4 or 6 cyl? Gas or diesel? Fuel injection or carburetor?
If you have a throttle position sensor have you tested it for full sweep and dead spots?

Roger

the engine is a 22R (4 cyl, carb). It has no throttle position sensor that I know of. I didn't see one and my manual only mentions that for the fuel injected version.

Is the path of the accelerator linkage clear of all wiring looms? Could the linkage be grounding out a wire at wide open throttle?

Has the carb been overhauled? Is it time for a major tune up? Have you tried a fuel conditioner like Lucas Fuel System Cleaner?

Roger

I did not see any interference with anything with the throttle linkage or gas peddle under the dash. I did put in fuel conditioner, but not Lucas. I have only had the truck four days. I am wondering if the High altitude compensation valve, fuel cutoff solenoids, EGR valve, or anything like that could be causing these symptoms.

I doubt it is an EGR Valve problem. Take a look at the main relay terminals located on the inner fender panels or firewall to see if corrosion is present causing relay terminals connection problems.

Same for fuel cutoff solenoids....

Roger

1989 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

i just bought a new fuel pump and bracket and i didnt mess with anything else. now im not getting any power to it

Hello,

Were you getting power before?

Check fuses as well as the relay.

Note- I assume you are getting spark to the plugs and lack of fuel pump operation is the only problem.

yes i have checked all the fuses and relays and they are all good

If power is leaving the relay to the pump, you either have a break in the power between the relay and pump OR a bad ground. You'll need to use a meter to determine if you are missing power or ground. Connect one end of volt meter to battery + and check the ground at the fuel pump connector.

Which are you missing?

could it be a short in the wires or what could it be

By the way, is the relay clicking during initial key on and during engine cranking?

Yes, it could a short or open in the wires. If you are missing ground to the pump it is optional whether to find and repair the break, or to just estabish a new ground.

1988 Toyota Pick Up Heating / Cooling System Upgrade When repairing 

refil with r12, which side is low side? 2 valves one front near pulley and one rear.

This is a little hard to explain by location, but very easy to explain like this... the high and low side valves are different sizes... the low side is smaller and the high side is larger.. also the high side is on the smaller sized tube or pipe and the low side is usually on a hose or the larger sized tubing.. hope this helps.. Al

1988 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

I installed a remanufactured engine long block for my sons 1988 Toyota 22re with fuel injection. We checked the timming chain to make sure it was in time, checked the distributor and I have it set at 5 degrees btdc. The biggest problem is he has no power... especially going up hills. He has to put it in to third gear to go up a 6 percent grade with the throttle to the floor. Does any one have an ideas because we are stumped? thank you
Bill and Son

Check the fuel and air filter and the fuel bypass line to the tank. Standard or auto trans?

Standard. Changed the fuel filter but have not checked the bypass line. Air filters new. If not the bypass line, any other suggestions???
Bill

Can you check for diagnostic codes?
Sometimes there are problems that show up and the check engine light does not come on. Things like the throttle position sensor adjustment etc come to mind...

Checked codes:
Came out with codes;
24 Which is intake air temperature signal open/short

31 Airflow meter signal short between VC-VB, VC-E2 or VS-VC or open circuit between VC or E2.

51 Switch signal-idl, NSW, or A/C signal to ECU missing with check terminal E1 and T shorted. But that could've happened when I was timing the engine.

I don't think these codes will cause a power problem, but they may a running problem, but it runs and idles good. We just have very little power. Could you please explain what VS and what abbreviations above mean?
Bill

The letter codes are the factory way of identifying the wires on the plg. Often, with a good light (and good eyes!) you can see the writing on the actual plug.If the wiring looks ok, it is just a problem with a dirty plug connector.If the airflow meter is not getting the right signal, you might be getting enough signal (and fuel) for low speed operation, but not higher.
The a/c switch should not cause a problem but the air intake temp sensor could also cause a problem. The air intake sensor is about the size of your small finger, in the aircleaner housing, or air intake hose and has a plug with two wires.

1988 Toyota Pick Up Windows / Glass   

I am looking for a longbed for my 1988 pick up

Have you tried querying the vendors from the all-parts.com homepage? If you have and need additional help, let me know.

1988 Toyota Pick Up Drive Train / Driveline   

Drive train makes a clunking noise without any vibration that only goes away when brakes are applied and when steering is turned to the right but not the left. It is most noticeable at 25-30 MPH but is there at lower speeds as well, higher speeds can't tell but that may be because of road noise. When brakes are first applied there is a louder clunk every time but if brakes are continued to be held noise instantly goes away. I checked front brakes and front driveline and there is nothing loose, all fluids were serviced.

The first thing I would look at is the front suspention pivot points, the bushings etc on the control arms.
If its a 4wd check the front axle ujoints at the ends and the axle bearings.

It is 4wd but if hubs are not locked should there not be any noise from axles/joints as they are not turning?

The hubs are not turning, but everything inboard of the hub is.

1988 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Charge and Brake lights come on & stay on when starting or after driving from 5 - 30 minutes. Alternator checked out ok. Battery seemed to hold charge (even while jumping V8 Chevy). Changed alternator and wire harness, cleaned battery hookups, checked circuit wiring & fuses - problem stopped for about 2 months & just started again only this time, battery not holding charge as well, sluggish starts on occasion.

Hello, I had one of these pick ups and it took three alternators to finally stop getting the same warning lights you are seeing to remain off. The engine was the 22R and a manual transmission.

I won my battle by having the alternator load tested by a VAT-40 charging system tester that contains a carbon pile load device. When the tester was used to demand the max output of the alternator the alternator just couldn't cut the mustard.

I was buying rebuilt after market alternators from the same source and getting one after another that the rebuild was sub-standard. The warranty was attractive so I was hanging in there and getting frustrated with the inconvenience.

I gave in and bought a new alternator from a different supplier and that did the trick.

The key is testing the alternator max output by demand. Can you arrange such a test on your vehicle?

Thoughts?,

Roger

Hi Roger. Mine's also a 22R 4 cyl carb 5 sp manual & we've also been trying to get around buying a new alternator. VAT-40 testing is a problem. We don't own one & don't know who does. I know Kragen has 1 type of tester they'll run on alternators & I'll call to verify what it is. The battery is from a V8 Chevy & bigger than what it had before. I can see how a smaller one could be a problem but can a larger one be a problem too? (thx!)

No, The larger battery is not the problem unless it was installed in a low state of charge. Alternators do not bring near dead batteries back to a full state of charge with full reserve capacity.

The load test on the alternator needs be done using a tester that can demand and measure the max rated amps output of the alternator. One such tool is the Sun Corp. VAT-40. There are other brands that have the same capability.

Roger

1988 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

I have a 1988 toyota pickup 4wd 5speed with 22re and the speedomter doesn't work checked speedometer and cable and both work fine what could be the problem?

If cable and speedo check out it can only be the gear in the transmission. Usually the housing comes out after the speedo cable removed.There is a drive gear that usually is ok and the 'driven' gear on the end of the cable. As it is a plastic gear, it commonly wears out. If it is worn, replace with one the same color as that determines gear tooth count and ratio.Use the wrong one and speedo will not be accurate.

1987 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

i need to know what time to set my new timing chain on?

Turn the crankshaft until the shaft key is on top. Slide the sprocket over the key on the crankshaft. Place the timing chain on the sprocket with the single bright link aligned with the timing mark on the sprocket.

Place the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket so that the space between the bright chain links is aligned with the timing mark. Make sure the chain is positioned between the dampers.

there is a certain time that the chain is suppose to be set and that is what i wanted to know?

The crankshaft should be a TDC 0* and the timing mark on the camshaft should be straight up. Use the colored links on the chain to be absolutely certain of your alignment.

1987 Toyota Pick Up Engine Making Noise When accelerating Always

My truck makes a chattering sound just when pulling off for a few seconds. I had the timming set but it still does it.It kinda sounds like a spark knock but only when pulling off. Its a 22r 4x4 1987.

Try running a tank of premium gas through it. If the noise improves, then it is spark knock. If so, you will need to find out why. Timing set to wrong specifications, EGR not working properly, compression too high. If the noise remains the same, you will need to determine if it is a vibration between the engine and the frame (try it in reverse), internal engine noise (rev it in neutral), exhaust problem....

Try the premium fuel first.

What are some know causes of a spark knock and what is EGR. THANKS

Spark knock can be caused by timing set to wrong specifications, EGR not working properly, compression too high.

EGR= Exhaust gas recirculation, and emissions system on gasoline engines.

Try premium fuel first.

1987 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

Truck was overheating - problem now solved. New problem: truck will not idle at any temperature, also runs sluggish.

What was the cause of the overheating problem? Make sure no vacuum hoses or wires were disturbed or damaged during previous repair.

Have you given it a tune-up; new spark plugs, wires/cap/rotor, fuel filter, etc.

Any black smoke at any time from the exhaust?

overheating was due to bad thermostat. New plugs about month ago. No noticeably unhooked/damaged vacuum lines. Wires about 2 yrs old. Fuel filter is in question - >7 years on that item. No appreciable smoke

Surely try another filter, it is overdue.

Additionally check for vacuum leaks.

Let me know if this reveals anthing, and we'll continue as necessary.

fuel filter no change. on acceleration the performance is good, at steady speed I notice the truck jerking and stumbling. It sure feels like a vacuum leak

Inspect the spark plugs to make sure none are black (to rule out a rich condition).

And check for vacuum leaks, don't any vacuum hoses or gaskets.

plugs look good. Now have another related(?) issue: I have no AC or blower function and the tail light fuse blows out as soon as the key is turned. I have unplugged both tail light assemblies from the harness but that makes no difference. If I replace the fuse and test the brakes (without turning the key) the bulbs work fine. Any suggestions?

1987 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

rad flush replaced fan clutch replaced thermastat still overheats no loss of fluid

It is possible that the blades of the water pump are rusted and decentigrated.
You need to open up the hoses and check for water flow.
You may also want to check your timing also as to the over heating problem.
I hope this helps

I have not done that ,I forgot I even replaced rad cap 13# onward to the rad hoses and timing ,the engine only has 82000 miles and this started about a month ago,but did get a smog check and I wonder if the mechanic changed the timing,what should it be set to,im betting that he did ,not discounting the pump.
please send timing specs and I will do that first thing tomorrow.
Thank You Frank canaan

what size engine do you have?

it will be marked under the hood
I needed to know thw engine
will be gone for three days trip hope this helps
or call auto parts store with engine size
I apollogize

engine is a22r --pick-up-stick shift-carb 1987,purchased with under 10,000 now 82,000 thats why I discounted the water pump I had a 78same and never had trouble except throw out bearing 250,000 miles so this is damn near the same only a few last choices left and I guess maybe head gasket won'T go there yet thanks Frank Canaan

ok I am back hold on while I get you the info on that engine

For your 1987 Toyota Truck 4 Runner 4WD (2.4L FI):
5 Degrees


For your 1987 Toyota Truck 4 Runner 4WD 2.4L FI Turbo :
5 Degrees


For your 1987 Toyota MR2 1.6L FI DOHC :
10 Degrees


For your 1987 Toyota Truck RN(4cyl)Truck 2WD 2.4L FI Turbo
5 Degrees


For your 1987 Toyota Truck
RN(4cyl)Truck 2WD 2.4L 2BL :
8 Degrees

1987 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

---

Bruce Kit -

Hi
We require a question to answer or a description of the problem you are having with your 87 Toyota Pickup.
Bruce

New User -

I thought i had already asked the question, but here it is again...I have an 87 toyota pick up 22r engine. When depress the clutch pedal and turn the ignition key all i get is a click from the starter solenoid, It has a new starter motor in it that has been tested and is ok it also has a new battery that has been tested and is ok. What other possible reasons could it be for not turning over. or the starter not working?

Bruce Kit -

The first question part was blank, Now its better, First ensure the engine is not seized.Either stick an appropriate sized socket on front of crankshaft bolt, and with a large ratchet, try to manually turn engine over.Or, with all spark plugs removed, you might try turning over engine by hand by turning pully by hand.If it turns out relatively easily, great. Then you might try carefully looking at battery and ground cable.Remove both, examine both for corrosion and clean and re attach ends.

New User -

Engine is not seized all battery cables are new. I got it running today drove around the block switched it off. then when i tried to start it, exactly the same thing happened just a click from the starter relay. Had starter re tested and it checks out fine. any other suggestions?

Bruce Kit -

Have the battery tested "under a load" not just to see if it is 12-13 volts. We need to know the amps.If battery at or near 5 yrs old , it is near the end of its life,
When no start, try running a 10 guage wire from small terminal on starter to + pos battery post. If it cranks over normally , and the wire from ignition switch to the starter is good, then the switch itself is suspect.

New User -

OK the battery is fine and has been teted it is a new battery. I connected a wire from the little terminal on the starter directly to the battery Pos + and nothing happened. Then i fiddled around with the wires down near the starter for a bit and got the starter solenoid to push the pinion out but not rotate it. then it went back to just a click from the starter relay. any other ideas?

Bruce Kit -

Most definatly a problem inside the starter, there are contacts inside that enguage after the pinion extends. If yo feel comfortable dismantling starter, contacts can be cleaned (emory paper)
With bad contacts , starting can be a hit or miss propersition. Sometimes a solenoid
can be ourchased instead of an entire starter

New User -

It is a brand new starter and solenoid i have taken it off several times to take it to the store to have it tested and each time comes back ok. Do you still think it is the starter? if so it has a lifetime warraunty with it, should i exchange it for another new one.?

Bruce Kit -

You can actually bench test it youtself rather easily. If you req info let me know.
If the small wire is disconnected from starter, put a test light on the wire (gnd other end) and do a ke on/off test to ensure starter is getting signal from ignition switch.

1986 Toyota Pick Up Engine Making Noise Happens always When cold

until the engine is warmed up there is a high pitch noise that seems to come from the valve on the passenger side of the engine so i reajusted the valve and check for loose bolt but apparently nothing seems loose. what could be the problem?

It's been a while since you asked this question. Let me know what you have tried so far. And describe the noise as much as you can,(IE- does it gradually disappear, etc)

i have ajusted the valve but it did not change anything when the engine is cold there is a high pitch noise that seems to come from the valve train or top of the engine it's slowly disapeiring when the engine is warming up it's loud

Clean the oil ports. If this don't help... and you've already done adjustments you will have to install new valvetrain parts.

when i ajusted the valve i looked for loose part and checked all the bolts there was nothing loose. why do you think the oil port has something to do with the noise?

Lack of oil causes noise and warm oil flows better...

1986 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

I have a 1986 toyota 4x4 w/22ret engine. I have no power to the fuel pump. I replaced the fp relay and still none. I ran new power via switch, fuse, and wire to fuel pump. the fuel pump is new. now the truck starts a few seconds and dies. any ideas? thanks

Do you have battery power (positive) to the fuel pump relay?

Don't overlook battery cables, engine and body grounds, fusible links, and fuses.

1986 Toyota Pick Up Engine   

I have replaced the Engine In my fathers Toyota pick up 22RE, Removed a 1986 and Installed a 1987 unit will not run just turns over chked fault codes found one for the igniter. replaced. has fire no fuel thru the injectors I Replaced ECU. did not change a thing Ihave cked timing fire replaced plugs I am at my end can any one give me advise

Hello, With the key on do you have battery voltage on one of the two wires on each injector?

What is the fuel pressure?

Roger

Time out! You should have voltage on one of the two wires on each injector. There is a resistor in line so it won't be full battery voltage.

Roger

Do have fire on one side of injectors I though the injectors were bad replaced with inj from old engine these were running b 4 pulling engine. have not gauged fuel pressure but took a line loose from the cold start switch fuel sprayed everywhere removed plugs sparkplug were dry as a chip that what make me believe the injectors are not fireing bt i do have current to them

All right. With power to the injectors it is up to the computer to fire the injectors when the feedback from the crankshaft sensor tells the computer the engine is cranking.

You stated you have spark. The computer uses the same signal from the crankshaft sensor for spark as it does for fuel.

Disconnect one fuel injector and monitor the two connector wire terminals for a voltage pulse as the engine cranks. Do you see a pulse, or does the voltage remain constant? The computer is supposed to pulse the ground for the injector circuit.

Roger

1986 Toyota Pick Up Drive Train / Driveline   

automatic overdrive seems to skip 2nd gear what would cause this to happen?

Usually this means that the clutches inside the autotrans fails. If it is the origional trans, I would not be too suprised!
It is nothing that the average guy can fix though. You might want to try changing the oil filter in the trans and giving it a thourough internal fluid flush, especially if has not had one in the last few years. Sometimes a small bit of dirt can plug a small orfice and prevent the trans from shifting properly.
As a last resort you may consider a rebuilt unit, and there should be plenty at autowreckers available

this seems to be an intermediate problem because it sometimes does shift normally for long periods of time and then start acting up again

Sounds like some debris in the oil, moving around ang occasionally plugging stuff up.

1986 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

'86 Toyota 4x4 pickup: good compression and timing; new plugs and wiring; new fuel filter; new distributor cap; fuel injectors check out. Loss of power - at least 50% loss with acceleration on a grade, and missing. Help. Suspected a bad tank of fuel, but not sure now. What's next?

Hi, See if the exhaust is restricted.

Roger

I presently have a bad muffler, so have a new one in the back of the truck waiting to be replaced. Do I look at any particular place for a restriction?

My first thought would be the catalytic converter.

Sometimes these engines have the EGR ports in the head so carbon blocked the valve offers nothing toward power.

Roger

Thanks for these tips. Just in case these are clear, is there anything I should look for with the coil going bad on me, or the fuel pump beginning to fail? Would the loss of power and the missing in the acceleration process possibly be linked to any of these? As you can see, I'm a bit desperate; just paid a mechanic $268.00 for a no-fix job. I'll check your answer later or tomorrow; almost sack time. Again, appreciate your help. ed

$268.00 for a no-fix job? Does the mechanic not stand behind his work? You deserve so much more than you got for the money!

Take that mechanic for a road test with you driving first. Duplicate the complaint for him. Then, let him drive and prove to you that he can duplicate the complaint.

Next, demand an explaination as to why what he did at your expense did not fix the problem? Are you willing to get what you paid for?

Does the alternator provide full power when tested for max output? Are the battery cable connections clean and tight at both ends of each cable? I wonder if you have a voltage problem under load?

Have you tested the fuel pressure? Try a road test with a test guage connected to see if pressure remains adequate under acceleration/load.

I hope these thoughts provide some ideas.

Roger

roger, thanks so very much for your input. I will follow up. I have engaged with the mechanic(s) throughout the two weeks they had the vehicle; they have been scratching their heads...with a lot of frustration, and believe me, for the time put in, the charge was minimal. Still, I've got a vehicle that now has about a 25% power loss, with a fair amount of rough running (missing). Had a couple others - with some experience - also scratch their heads on it too. What you are suggesting is new, so I'll follow up. Thanks again. Hope I can cure this poor thing. It's a great truck. ed

Please let me know how it goes...

Roger

You got me into the Chilton manual on the emissions section. I'll do close checking of the ERG stuff and the Catalytic Converter. Sounds plausible to me. I'll let you know. Thanks again. ed

Roger, I said I'd get back to you about my stuttering, powerless '86 Toyota PU. Well, checked out the Catalytic converter; clean and clear. Then had the EGR valve removed and cleaned out. It was quite plugged with carbon, in the valve stem and the port. Arggghhhh. It still is not cured! I/we are amazed at this. Now what? Could it be the fuel pump going bad? Or the coil going bad. If I accelerate slowly, easily...it hesitates and then I may feel periodic surges of power unless I'm going up a steep grade. then it usually really bogs down. Weird. Any suggestions before YOU give up? Thanks. Ed

Ed, I wonder if the mechanical advance in the distributor has become stuck? Have you taken a look at the condition of the distributor itself? Meaning, bushings worn causing erratic dwell readings....I also wondered if the ignition coil is breaking down under load due to heat?

There is a fuel strainer on the pick-up tube in the fuel tank that may be restricted that could factor. Driving the truck with a fuel pressure test guage attached would address fuel supply issues.

Still thinking,

Roger

Roger, we have checked none of the above. We will. I really appreciate your input. Will keep you posted. ed

1986 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

After truck warms up and attaining highway speed the engine just seems to want to quit. the engine lurches, the tach jumps then drops to "0" and the oil light comes on ... it has stalled.

I have replaced the coil, ignitor, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter ... all to no avail.

86 toyota pickup, 4x4 w 4 cyl and 5 spd manual. All remedies in the bench manual have been followed.

Ideas??? I'm out of them.

Might be a plugged catalyctic converter,
try removing pipe before the converter and test drive.
Also hook a volt meter to ignition side of ignition switch, See if voltage drops when truck stalls. You might have bad switch.

1986 Toyota Pick Up Drive Train / Driveline   

Changing the center support bearing on my 4wheel drive long bed. A friend of mine removed the intermediate shaft and rear shaft and separated them from the support bearing without marking anything. Reinstalling the shafts and new support bearing by 'memory' was not successful. There is a major vibration coming from the center section. I read in a repair manual that you are supposed to mark everything before removing it that way you can line everything back up to the markings. What if you don't??? I've tried turning the inter-shaft 180
degrees and the rear 180 degrees, still the same vibration. I've looked for any type of markings from the factory but found none. What to do???

Hello, What is your email address please? I'll send you a file on this subject.

Is it possible you have the center bearing on backwards?

Roger

1986 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

I have an 86 Toyota SR5 4X4 PU with a 22RE EFI engine with 157,000 original miles. My problem is when I decelerate to come to a stop or slow down it sputters and wants to die.If I keep my foot slightly pressing the gas it does not happen. If it does die it sputters and coughs a little smoke then starts back up. I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The engine never overheats or burns any oil.

Sounds like a little water in gas tank. Although there are additives (methyl alcohol etc) the best way to remove it is to clean out tank entirely.

It was completely cleaned out when I replaced the fuel pump and filter. I have also treated the fuel system several times with the additive Techron.

Check the Power Brake booster and the check valve for leaks. A leaking PB booster can cause a sudden drop in vacuum and cause your symptoms,

I will check both of those. I noticed the rubber boot on my Dashpot is torn on a few places. Could that cause the problem?

Might be if it is causing something to bind...check the PB first.

1985 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups Leaking When driving No pattern

Coolant leaking into oil. Looks like thin gravy.

Couple of questions. Did the engine overheat. Is the engine the in-line 4 cylinder (22r) or the v6 engine? How mechanical are you. It sounds like either you have cracked a head (really bad) or have a head gasket that has failed (not so bad). Let me know and we can go from there. AL

WHat did you finally find as the problem? Just a follow up question. AL

1985 Toyota Pick Up Engine Leaking Happens always Always

I have an exhaust leak at the manifold, I'm not sure if its a crack or blown gasket. How does this effect performance and is it damaging to the motor? Should I have it fixed as soon as possible?

The damaged exh manifold can damage the exh valves by allowing cool air to get sucked back into the head between strokes. Also if it is a blown gasket there has to be a reason the gasket failed (ie loose bolts or broken bolts). This would be a good time to look at installing an aftermarket exhaust to take advantage of the better gas milage at highway speed. Plus it sounds better. Let me know if I can be more help. Al

1985 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

i don't know if any one can help me. my truck does not start in the mornings when is cold. i can sometimes get it to start by pumping the gas and leting it sit for half an hour then it will start, but it doesn't always work. i changed the gas filter and the spark plugs are good. it will just rotate but not start

Your truck is listed as coming with engines that have a carburetor and fuel injection. This will change the diagnostics approach.

Regardless you need to check for spark to the spark plugs during the no-start period. The preferable method is with a spark tester.

If you have spark, spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the throttle body/carburetor and see if the engine will start. It may just run for a short time until the carb cleaner is gone.

can the sparkplugs still be the problem even though whan the truck has been on for at least 2 min it will start right away. the truck will turn on right away when its warm.

Does your truck have fuel injection or a carburetor?

You need to check for spark to the spark plugs during the failure, not the spark plugs themselves. Y0u can buy a spark tester for under ten dollars at your local auto parts store.

my truck is carburator
ill check the spark too

what kind of symtoms would i see if it was the cold start switch

Hello, Look on the intake manifold for a Cold Mixture Heater. It is a device that has a Blk/Yel wire connected to it. Follow this Blk/Yel back to locate the control device...a Cold Mixture Relay.

A 7.5 amp IGN Fuse powers the Cold Mixture HTR Relay that is controlled by the truck's Emission Control Computer (EEC).

A Blu 80 amp Fuse Link powers the Cold Mixture Heater via the Blk/Yel wire when the EEC gives the command for the Cold Mixture HTR Relay to energize.

Would you like a wiring diagram? Please provide the email address or fax number where you can receive this data.

Roger

my e mail is [redacted]
thanks

Please allow me some time. I'm in Oklahoma driving on ice.

Roger

ok, thank you a lot for your help
ill wait for it

I finally got home. Your email has been sent.

Roger

thanks a lot, i hope this is the problem

It's a great place to begin. Take your time.

Roger

1985 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

check engine light is on and off. I want to check diagnostic. I dont know which connector it is or how to read the problem. 1985 toy 22re

Usually on the inner rh side fender, a round plug with three connector 'slots' the middle one offset a little.It is not plugged into anything. When Toy is warmed up, shut truck off, Run a jumper wire to both outside terminals on the diagnostic plug. Then turn key on, but do not start. The 'check engine light' will then flash a series of codes IE 2 flashes-space- three flashes long space means code 23.
Note there may be multiple codes, so watch for more flash sequinces. Repeat if necessary.
Simple

I will do that today after work. Thank You. If I can tell you flash sequence, will You tell me the problem. I dont have a reference for code numbers

Ok. I did what You said on A round plug on left fender. I didnt see one on right. Check Engine light flashed 4 times evenly with no pauses. Thanks, Wade

If you have to reset computer, try disconnecting battery for a minute.
PS sometimes a check engine light can come on with no codes.Check fluid levels etc and wait a few days to see if light comes on again

check engine light flashes 4 times when I cross connector. Do you know what this means or what part is faulty.

four flashes is not a code. They are usuall in pairs. Try disconnecting the battery (to reset computer). See if the check engine light goes away

1985 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

Truck will only start by using jumper cables. wise when turning the key I get one click and it acts as if the battery is dead. Battery checks out, but while running today the alternator burnt up. Replaced alternator and same problem. Starter is about six months old. Recently installed aftermarket stereo system with amplifier, but removed everything when I started having problems. Seems like I may have fried something but I have no idea where to even begin looking.

Hi, Have you had the new alternator and battery checked to see if they work together? Has a starter amp draw test been done? Are the battery cables building up corrosion down the length of the cable under the insulation? Are the ground wire connection points for the battery negative cable clean and tight at both ends?

Thinking out loud,

Roger

1985 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

1985 toyota truck 22R, no spark from coil?
I have replaced the rotor button, distributor cap, the pick-up coil, the coil, and the Ignition module.. and proven it to be good on another working truck of same make.. Also there is a good 12 V going to the coil and module when the key is on.. it is baffling problem?? Also made sure there is a solid frame ground to the ignition module base, back to the block.. still no spark?? suggestions??

Several things come to mind in order of cheapest to most expensive...
Ignition fuse
Ignitor (even new ones can be bad)
Pick up coil in distributor (gap new one
to .025")
Did you put dielectric grease under module?

The Ignitor has been proven good on another truck.. I know it is good.. the Gap for the pickup coil is set to .025 I have checked the Fuses.. where is the ignition fuse located?, and what purpose does dielectric grease perform under the module (that for grounding the module?)

See if there is a fuse panel under hood as well as under dash.
The dielecrtic grease dissipates heat, and is fairly important. I have seen known good modules and new ones die quickly due to excessive heat.

1984 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

The charge sign is always on. The fuel gauge, the temperature gauge and the signal lights do not work. But the headlight, hazard lights and speedometer are working.

Start by checking fuses, battery connections, and grounds (thoroughly).

I do not know where the fuse box for my truck is? Is it possible for you to describe where I can find it? thank you.

Use the following link to access a repair guide and component locator for your truck (free).

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1984 Toyota Pick Up Engine  When troubleshooting Always

I just replaced the head on a toyota 22r engine. I replaced the timing chain and both sprockets. To time the engine, the crank is on top dead center. The timing marks on the sprocket should line up with the arrow on cover behind the sprocket. The timing marks do not line up. sprocket mark is off a half a tooth. I go forward or back nad is still a half a link off, any suggestions, thanks

marks on gears go to gold links on chain

Two silver links on cam sprocket and one link on crank sprocket. I had the head redone. The timing marks will not align because the bottom of head was shaved. Will the engine run properly on half a tooth off. I tried it at doesn't seem too.

if u had head shaved over 60 thousands will not work without metal shim if 60 thousands and under tensioner if good will take up slack

1984 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1984 22r 4x4 pickup, someone cut off the plugs from alternater that lead to the regulater and also the plug that connects to the regulater, I need to know if I can by pass the regulater and just put in a alternater that has the IC in it? And how I would go about doing it?

"You can install an IC regulated alternator
on your vehicle.
you must be sure of the output voltage and that it is consistent, as not to overcharge your battery
It will be wise for you to rewire the tachometer
when you modify the charging system
You will connect the POS battery wire as any other alternator to the big terminal
Make sure the alternater is mounted is grounded properly
I hope this helps"

thanks I hope it works! If not I 'm hoping that I can replace the plug's that where cut off.

ok sounds like a deal

1984 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

Truck will not start-turns freely-no spark at the plug wire-have checked fuses in engine compartment and under dash and find nothing wrong no broken timing chain as rotary turns

Hello, What engine please? Have you set the points?

Roger

22R don't believe it has points???

have nothing at the coil wire

hey Roger u still ther??

I need to hear something from u or I am assuming we have lost contact and I will not have to pay.

Sorry for the delay, this is not a live chat and I work here in between local tasks.

Let me look for a wiring diagram to see where power to the coil wire comes from.

Roger

Yikes, I forgot to ask fuel injection or carb?

Roger

OKAY, If it is fuel injected the EFI Computer outputs power to the ignitor on a Blk wire. The ignitor in turn powers the ignition coil.

Check the ignitor.

Roger

Truck does not have EFI

Thank you. See if the check list at the following link gives you some results.

http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/82/3[redacted] 8235/repairInfoPages.htm

Roger

cannot access page. says it no longer exist.

Please try again. Copy the link and paste to your address bar. I tried copying it from my last message shown below and it worked for me.

Roger

1984 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

All the interior lights are dead! only thing that works are the head lights and the flashers and the truck will not turn over.

Auto or manual trans?

Have you checked fusible links to see if one has burned in two?

Roger

I checked both the 30 and the 60 and they are both ok.

The circuits you describe to be inop are a mix of circuits that should be hot at all times and those switched hot by the ignition switch. That is why I thought first about fusable links.

Are there fuses dead in the fuse box with the key on?

The ignition switch may have a problem.

Roger

There is no power to the interior fuse box only hazzards work all the other fuses are dead.
When you turn the key you get nothing.

The ignition switch may have a problem. Have you checked it?

Roger

no I have not checked it I will today.
How many leads should be hot?

Fusible links White and White/Red supply power to the ignition switch.

Power switched hot by the switch should be on Blk/Red, Blk/Wht, Blk, and depending on where the splice is there may be a Blk/Yel.

You have not said if the truck is gas or diesel, carb or fuel injected, auto or standard trans....I can email a wiring diagram if you'll provide an email address.

Roger

The truck has a R22 engine ,carb, gass & manual transmition.

[redacted]

Thank you,

I sent the diagram. I hope it is helpful.

Roger

Thank you roger I will let you know what I find!

I look forward to your findings.

Roger

1984 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1984 pick up. both brake and charge light came at the same time. Had a broken wire to alternator. single wire w/ eyelet not 3 wire plug. Had alt checked. Was bad. Replaced and repaired wire. Both lights still on. Did something else short out?

Sometimes when alternator shorts out the battery can be damaged. Also check the fusable links near the battery + terminal.
Brake light on might be unrelated.Best to check it as a separate problem as brakes are a saftey item.

Years ago as I was driving this truck, both the brake light and charge light, came on at the same time. Then it was just the alternator. This time, both lights came on, and the idle speed went up. First thing I suspected was alternator again. As I was starting to remove it, I found broken wire. I fixed the wire,alt. was bad. Replaced, but lights are still on and idle is still up. Any other suggestions?

When you changed to new alt did you test it! I have seen reman ones sold with problems right out of the box.Check any fusable links in the battery solenoid area, with a volt/ohm meter as there might be an open connection.
The idle speed going up might have been just the load coming off the alternator.

1983 Toyota Pick Up Engine  Happens sometimes When cold

when it is cold out side below 50.once in awile it will start missing.the colder it gets the worse it gets.when it is above 50 it don't give me any problems.when it starts doing it,it's like the fist half of my throtle dosn't work push the throtle to the floor and it seams to run fine until it levels off at one rpm and then it starts to miss agin.this is what i have done so far .i put another coil,ic regulator,destributor,fuel pump,carb,and a timing chain and it still dose it.what else could it be.

Toyota's use an igniter that is attached to the coil. This is mostlikely what your problem is. It is not a cheap part tho. After readying you list of parts that you have changed, the only question I have is were these new parts or used? I would definatedly go after the igniter. It sure sounds like your problem.


Bill

1983 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade  

the altinator doen't charge, with a new altinator and voltage regulator. I havent found any other problems with the truck electricly. would like to know about puting a GM 1 wire alt. on the truck, it has an A/C and no smog pump, which is where other articals have sugested putting a diffrent alt. I would like to get an aftermarked lower bracket to fit the 1 wire into the stock location.

Hello, Have you had the new alternator output tested to be certain it is good?

Does your truck have warning lights or gauges on the dash? If a "no charge" or "battery" bulb is burned out some alternators will not energize.

For an aftermarket bracket for the 1 wire you might consider contacting a mini-truck custom shop. They do so many things with sound systems I expect they have needed to beef up the alternator applications to power their bass pumping high output systems.

Roger

the charge light is intermintent and not dependent on the alt. working. The volt meter generaly shows a 14.5-15+Volts when the alt. is working, currently I get just the 12volts off the batt.

None of the shops in south ark. currently do any swaps like I need, but I would like to find someone who has built or has on hand a bracket for the chage to the 1 wire

I'll look into it as best I can for you. If you lose patience with me, just release the question for others to step up.

I am in Oklahoma City. There are several of these mini-truck builders to talk to and I'm going to give it a try. Maybe they can show us the way to go. Someone knows how they get all that power for their sound systems and the way may include the 1 wire conversion.

What size engine do you have, 22R?

Roger

Shops around here state that they fabricate what is needed to mount a 1 wire. Such a request to custom fit the 1 wire is rare enough that they don't keep a drawing/blueprint. They could not offer me a source for a readymade bracket. When they need one, they make one.

That is a disappointment to say the least. Got any good metal shops in your area?

Roger

1983 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System Stalling When idling When warm 

The vehicle starts ok when cold and the choke is engaged. As the vehicle warms up it begins running very rough and will not idle. When it eventually dies, it will not restart.

It is best to have fuel pressure checked with a gauge in this situation.

Has the fuel filter been changed?

When it first starts idling rough, what happens if you try to rev the engine (safely stopped and in park/neutral for this test)? Does it stall or run better?

You need to check for spark to the spark plugs the engine stalls and will not start.
This diagnostic step is necessary to find out what is missing.

The vehicle acts as if it were starving for fuel. Engine spark is not a problem. It has been checked.

as long as the rpms are'up' the engine will still run, even though it runs quite rough. When the gas pedal is released to idle, it dies. Also when you try and start it after it dies, it will not start, even when pumping the gas pedal. Sometimes will start if you put the accelerator to the floor when trying to start it.

Is the choke opening when the engine warms?

If it is you need to check for vacuum leaks.

we have discovered water in the fuel tank and think that this may be the problem. Does it sound feasible?"

It's feasible, try some fresh fuel and a new filter and see if the problem is gone.

How much water was there?

There was approx. 1 quart if water in the tank, probably caused from sitting over 2 months. Any suggestions as to how to stop this from happening again?

How much gas was in it while it was sitting?

Between 1/4 & 1/2 tank. The filter has been changed. I also put an additive in the tank to mix with any water that may be ramaining. Thanx.

It could of been condensation, but that seems like a large amount. Maybe it was just a bad dose of gas.

Keeping the tank full is helpful to prevent condensation, but still not necessary this time of year.

Is the truck going to be sitting for extended periods again?

Yes, it is. I don't use it that much. It is a Toyota, Sunrader (mini-motorhome). I think a combination of the gas additive, driving it more and keeping the tank full, should stop the problem. Thanx for your persistancy on this problem!

It's been a while. I wanted to check in and see if your problem has stayed away.

1983 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

1983 toyota p.u. 22r autotrans 2wd
new alternator, new regulator, amp guage and panel warning lights for charge and brake.
both brake and charge come on correctly with key "ON". no pattern intermittant both on together while driving - associated rpm drop, eventually battery discharges to where a starter will not turn.
have a new charge light relay to install but cannot locate the relay on the left kick panel as it is supposed to be - only the flasher relay is found.
where is the charge light relay?
the alternator is not equipped with the IC
battery take a charge from a charger just fine.
either the diodes are whacked (not likely - new alternator) or the relay is freaking out and almost dead/fried.....just can't find it. is it on the left wall or under a trim panel? yes i have Air conditioning, and the amp gage is located on the center console with oil pressure gage between the ac and the driveline hump.
i just need to know where the relay is hiding.
i have had the entire instrument panel out along with ducting and steering covers - this is my daughters vehicle....dad is not happy being stumped by something so simple as finding a relay. not shown in any haynes of other manual i can find...just "left kick panel" isn't hiding behind the emmission control box either....5 bucks - after i verify it is there.

this is a US car not a Canadian model

it SHOULD be right above the emmission control Computer on left side kick panel
Im enclosing this link to the not very detailed image
http://img112.imageshack.us/img[redacted] /[redacted] 9893ih2.gif

not there..pulled the side wall trim, pulled the instument panel, AC ducting, not down by the gage...factory gage. if there is a light there has to be a relay. no weird preowned mods....man i am stumped. if it is where the picture shows it, then it is between welded in body plates. still looking.
p.s. the turn signal flasher is in that almost same place by a bit futher aft and up. there is also a small 2" sq panel down low that has nothing behind it. not behind the emission box not enen a wire harness routed that way. appreciate the try, but no luck.

Send me your email address and I'll try to send a diagram of what you may be looking for.I remind you this is a diagram.If you are capable of removing a complete dash, you should be able to read the diagram to pinpoint the source providing its the right one.
Good luck,
Paul

i have a bunch of diagrams from 5 different sources,
wiring schematics, i looked at the factory data when i bought the charge light relay at the dealer...it is an OEM part only. unless you know something special about a truck built in may 1983 different from the factory...and everything but the relay in that panel is exactly where the factory says it should be...then i have been there done that. the thread before this one has a public post for images. think i'd rather keep it that way or specific text info. the only thing i hope that hasn't happened is the diode between the brake and charge light in the circuit hasn't failed sending current backwards and blowing the diodes in the alternator. when i put the alternator on a couple months back i also got a new regulator, it isn't like the OEM metal box it is a solid state resin encapsulated module. plugs in just the same.
i just need to swap out the charge light relay...simple, eh. no. i followed all the harness wrapped bundles to the door switch, speakers, up the post to the dome light, emission module, flasher relay - which is exactly where the charge light relay should be...headlight relays , heater motor relay, every one except the charge. weird.
there is a welded in nut element that would hold a bracket for a relay to hang on but the OEM paint is in the threads...nothing been there. i build airplanes for a living...this is embarrassing.
thanks for the help. next i'll start following wires from the alternator/battery through the bundles till i find the relay or figure out why it isn't there....that oughtta be good.

I get what your'e saying.I'll try to contact one of my friends at Toyota to see if we can solve your delima.
Paul

thanks...i'll be standing by....sure won't be driving very far. ha.
i do appreciate the effort. my parts guy at the dealer assures me there is suppoeded to be a relay on this car - date and s/n right off the dataplate.
soooo either it isn't there or i've been hypmotized into believing it isn't there so i'll spend another hundred bucks for parts!

Wow,now we are all scratching our heads.Some of the guys I've talked to state the area the previous writer said as being where it shoud be.They too have got there feelers out to see if anything new can be suggested.There has got to be an answer out there somewhere.
Paul

as always if there is a reason for me to get the 1 in a thousand factory unit not like the rest....
i have fully and i mean fully disassembled the dash to expose every and all wire runs.
there is not a provision on the harness for a plug or a place to plug. i do not have the IC alternator, although the factory data indicates this doesn't matter, i have the straight alternator regulator set up with a factory gage. still doesn't explain how the lights are on...to me. i have begun to look for a broken wire or a bum connection as the root cause. lots of starting stopping recharging the battery and checking of lights. bought this product called "liquid electrical tape" at home depot that house electricians use for wet area installs. beats trying to rewrap the harness with black tape.
thanks for trying. i do appreciate the effort by all parties.
closing out.

i'm withdrawing from this service. thanks for trying. turns out the new OEM regulator went bad fresh out of the box. my 83 also doesn't have a charge light relay or provisions for one...not sure why but whatever went wrong in the regulator acts just like a relay gone bad.
thanks again, bye

Glad to hear you found answer to your problem.Will tell my buds down at Toyota to quit searching.
Good Luck,
Paul

1983 Toyota Pick Up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my brake light and charging light stay on! they use to shut off if you reved it above 3500 rpm and would cause the volt meter to move from 13/14 to peg out at 16, not any more. The only change I made was to replace the ALT and IC Regulator as it was putting out 16 volts after you reved it up to clear the lights mentioned above, these fixes took care of the overcharge but now the lights remain even after a high rev. Please help me with this 22R, issue Thank You Very Much!! John

Have you put a voltmeter on and confirmed the actual charging voltage? This is the first step, to confirm adequate charging voltage is available before trouble shooting the lamp circuit.

Also do clean and re-establish engine and body grounds as well as the wiring connectors at the alternator.

Give me an update.

By the way, how is the body? Here in the Salt Belt most 83's are long gone.

I had the old one bench tested at parts store FAILED, had them test new one on bench it passed I replaced the external IC Regulator just to be sure. I have not confirmed the voltage off the ALT after installed but will do that tomorrow along with cleaning and re-establishing all grounds and contacts and get back with you!

The body on this is very solid, paint is oxidized and has faided but, only 1 dime size dent in back of cab and a couple very small minor rust areas on LR bed panel, no holes, EZ fix. The truck has been sitting since 2003.. I put a trickle charge on it overnight and it started right up. Truck belonged to my buddies father "ORIGINAL OWNER" who passed away a couple years ago. 196K,runs strong great vehicle I want to clean it up and give to my daughter. Thanks for asking!

sory it took so long but work and weather got in the way. I did clean and reconnect all the conections, grounds and measured the voltage output at the Alt @ 11.8 and the battery @ 11.8

Okay the alternator is not charging and the indicator light is correctly warning you of a no-charge condition.

With everything new (which for the time being we'll consider capable of functioning) you have one of two problems. One is a wiring problem and the other is that the belt is slipping and not spinning the alternator fast enough. Check that the belt is not slipping (it may squeal and will get hot to the touch after a minute or two, run engine for few minutes then shut off and inspect). Let me know and we'll move into the wiring if necessary, in which case I'll probably want your email address so I can send you a wiring diagram to follow.

belt tension is fine. I took the ALT of as on the way home the voltmeter went from 12 to 8 and would not restart this morning.. after testing the ALT at the parts store it failed and they gave me another one to install, it did pass a bench test before leaving store.

I installed it and made sure belt tension was good, I measured the voltage out put and it was 12V I just got done running the truck and it seems to be dropping voltage slowly again very noticeable if heater or headlights are tuned on.. any ideas! my E-mail is [redacted] you said you might need it in your last reply.

1983 Toyota Pick Up Fuel System   

the 22r (2.4 liter) engine has trouble starting...after starting nothing much changes when giving it gas...no accelleration or power when trying to drive...top end is better but the top speed is about 60 mph now. is it the filter, carb, pump? where is the filter located?

Hi, Locate the fuel filter on the frame rail under the vehicle just forward of one of the rear wheels. (Right side I think?)

You will need to remove a protective shield (rock guard) to access the fuel filter. Use a catch pan for fuel run off when the fuel lines are disconnected from the filter.

Do you need to see instructions for this proceedure? It's pretty straight forward maintenance.

Please advise,

Roger

1982 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

Truck ran rough for a bit. Tried running it and would stay running for a few seconds. Then would not fire at all. Put in new fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter. Had the carb rebuilt. Got a new ignition module, new ignition coil, new plugs and wires. Also, new cap, rotor and pick up assembly along with a new starter. I have power going into the ignition coil and no spark.

Hello, What engine does the truck have please??

Thanks,

Roger

22r, 2.4 2bbl

One of the many items you replaced was the pick up assembly so that let me know it is electronic ignition.

May I have your email address please? I'll send you a troubleshooting chart for your review.

Thanks,

Roger

[redacted]

also, i have changed the fuel lines from the fuel cell to the fuel filter, i ran 3/8'' aluminum from the fuel cell right to the filter to get more volume in the lines. the line was kinked and i thought that this would be the easier route, because the truck seemed like it was striving for gas. then from the filter to the pump i ran normal lines. is this a problem or ok?

I don't see a problem with the fuel lines you ran.

I'll concentrate on getting spark back.

email is on the way,

Roger

I won't be able to check the specs until tomorrow, but if that is all correct, where else could the problem lie?

It gets tougher from here as we may have to prove a new part defective or look for something unrelated to your actions to this point.

I'm counting on your eyes,

Roger

ok, so if i take the wire coming from the ignition module that goes to the pick up assembly, unplug that, and put a test light on that and crank it, i should see that test light flicker, correct? also, if i take the ohm meter and put into the coil by putting one terminal end into the clip where the ignition module would plug into and the other terminal end into the spot where the wire comes out and goes to the distributor, i should see resistence?

Nothing I sent you calls for a test light or cranking the engine during tests.

Did I send you the wrong information?

Roger

no, these were just some of the tests i did last weekend when i had time. the truck is at my house and i am at school, so the only time i have to work on it is the weekends

All right. Take your time and apply the test steps and record the results.

Do you have a computer with Internet access where the truck is? I'm still around on weekends but have a lot to do.

Roger

yea i have internet access. thanks for all your help

Write if you need something.

Roger

the harness going into the coil from the module has 22.4 volts
the ignition coil has 7.7 ohms
the wire from the module to the pick up assembly has 1.1 volts and 4.6ohms

Please recheck your test results. Isn't this is a 12 Volt DC truck? No voltage above battery voltage should exist.

When testing the ignition coil for an ohms value the coil should be disconnected compltetly. When testing for resistance there cannot be power in the circuit or the meter will be damaged.

Roger

I had the chance to work on my truck this weekend, and I had it spark twice.

It seemed as if it only sparked when I had my friend let of the ignition on the last crank.

I saw a small spark when he left of the key.

Look for a poor connection or a wire that has broken strands where it fastens to a connector terminal. Recheck the ground connections.

Remove the distributor cap. Can you feel excessive side-play in the distributor shaft? Do the reluctor blades have damage?

Roger

1981 Toyota Pick Up Ignition System   

when i drive 10 or 15 miles arter truck gets 2 operating temp,it cuts off and will not crank back until motor cools for 1to2 hours?? i think its in the ignition!!!what do u think my problme is??? how much does a new ignition system cost??? thanks

It probably is in the ignition system. To confirm this check for spark to the spark plugs when the no start condition is present.

Let me know which engine you have and I'll let you know how much parts cost. Often chain parts stores (Advance, Autozone, etc) will test ingition parts (Off the Vehicle) free of charge.

1980 Toyota Pick Up Brake System   

i have toyota pickup 4X4 and i replace front caliper and master cylinder and bleed them bunch time and i still have same problem i hade befor my problem is break peddle go almost to the floor when u use them and when i pump break once break peddle get hard and i have break then. what does check valve got to do with break system

Hello, Have you bled the rear brakes too? Better take a look at the rears and be sure there is no leak.

Start by bleeding the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front and lastly the left front.

The idea is to bleed the brake that is farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the brake closest to the master cylinder.

Roger

yes i did everything you said and still doingsame thing

Could you have received a defective master cylinder? Did you bleed the master before you installed it? Are you losing fluid?

Roger

1979 Toyota Pick Up All Part Groups   

I have a 1979 Toyota Truck 4X4 20R motor. I failed a smaog test in California, USA and was labeled a Gross Polluter, with CO% to rich. AT 15 mph or idle the reading are: Max 1.62/ GP 3.12/ Meas 6.69 while at 25 mph passed. What emissions parts should I replace? I'm also going to do a tune-up, what are good brands to get? My truck has 150,000 miles. My email is vmirabal@sbcglobal.net

Sbc is blocking emails, you may also email me at [redacted]

With that mileage I would look at all the vacuum hoses carefully, replacing any dry cracked ones.A new cat converter will iprove those readings substantially.
Tuneup parts? Stick to good quality.I like NGK V Groove plugs,a good quality set of wires, no Fram filters.(oil change does reduce emissions)Dist cap and rotors should have copper or brass terminals, no cheap aluminum.
Good luck!

Should the Throttle Position Sensor be replaced?